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Ubiquitus posted:I don’t get this. Every time I go outside my body takes much more of a beating than it does inside, and I go hard inside. Nah, it makes sense to me. Here in Austin, most outdoor climbing spots are quite crowded most of the time, which means there's a lot of people just sitting there waiting for their turns. Gyms don't have that problem, except maybe small ones during rush hour. At the gym I can easily work on a dozen or more problems within the span of 90 minutes, whereas outside I'll feel lucky if I get three or four routes in over three hours.
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Dec 9, 2021 02:35
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Slow News Day posted:Nah, it makes sense to me. Here in Austin, most outdoor climbing spots are quite crowded most of the time, which means there's a lot of people just sitting there waiting for their turns. Gyms don't have that problem, except maybe small ones during rush hour. At the gym I can easily work on a dozen or more problems within the span of 90 minutes, whereas outside I'll feel lucky if I get three or four routes in over three hours. Yeah between crowds here on the front range and the fact that he doesn't want to climb anywhere near his limit, we're stuck doing popular moderates and waiting our turn. EDIT: I'm waiting till after the holidays, but after typing this out I'm determined to suck up my social anxiety and meet some new partners. Slimy Hog fucked around with this message at 02:48 on Dec 9, 2021 |
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Dec 9, 2021 02:41
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Slimy Hog posted:Yeah between crowds here on the front range and the fact that he doesn't want to climb anywhere near his limit, we're stuck doing popular moderates and waiting our turn. I have been super unmotivated to climb and barely make use of my membership and masks are back and.... Come climb at movement rino with me if you like. Or drag me to ET.
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Dec 9, 2021 03:06
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Look for local climbing groups on meetup.com too. Great way to meet people with similar hobbies.
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Dec 9, 2021 03:14
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Ubiquitus posted:I don’t get this. Every time I go outside my body takes much more of a beating than it does inside, and I go hard inside. I don't know. With bouldering I usually can't do enough attempts outdoors to get the same kind of training that I get indoors. With routes though I'm completely dead at the end of the day
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Dec 9, 2021 03:36
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Slow News Day posted:As a side note, I looked into building a climbing wall for myself in the backyard, but the holds seem extraordinarily expensive. It might convince me to try to craft my own. Wooden holds can be really nice but it's really hard to get it right. Buying them premade costs way more than equivalent polymer holds, which honestly are amazing. I know they're expensive but nothing about climbing holds is trivial. I'm not saying don't do it, but if you do it, do it for fun. You're not going to save time/money by making your own, not if you want to have a good end result.
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Dec 9, 2021 04:49
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Has anyone hosed around with making resin climbing holds? I’ve semi gotten into resin casting recently and apparently some people do this, but I don’t really get if it’s similar or not. I’m not sure it has any practical purpose without a home climbing wall, but neither does making another set of dice/keycaps/tiny dishes out of resin so 🤷🏻♂️
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Dec 10, 2021 08:07
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Slow News Day posted:As a side note, I looked into building a climbing wall for myself in the backyard, but the holds seem extraordinarily expensive. It might convince me to try to craft my own. A lot of walls will sell off their worn holds cheaply and those are a good way to equip your own.
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Dec 12, 2021 00:29
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bltzn posted:So... do any other testicle-havers have a problem with them sometimes getting in the way when you're climbing an overhang? This "PYF products" post may help Snowy posted:I looked up a couple of the underwear brands mentioned and saw wirecutter recommend these ones by Saxx
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Dec 12, 2021 04:11
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Slimy Hog posted:This "PYF products" post may help I need to get in on this ball chat! There's a lot of brands that do those kind of underwear (saxx, mypackage and a lot more) and I have to say they are pretty nice and would solve all your massive ball getting stuck while climbing problem. The way they keep your balls in place without using compression is pretty nice. The only problem with them is that they will make your bulge look bigger in your pants which I find annoying with tighter pants and I only have an average sized junk so it might be real problematic for people with giant balls. KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 01:57 on Dec 15, 2021 |
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Dec 12, 2021 15:29
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I will look into these options and report back.
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Dec 13, 2021 20:04
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I think my shoulders are one of my big weak point. Should I just start doing 3 sets of 5 of Is, Ys and Ts both facing up and facing down 2-3 times a week and hope that's enough? I also started doing overhead presses on my strength days to balance things.
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Dec 19, 2021 01:51
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I believe the most common shoulder injury for climbing is a rotator cuff tear and you can strengthen your rotator cuff with internal and external rotation exercises either with a band or cable machine.
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Dec 19, 2021 04:26
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Having strong shoulders is really important for climbers - overhead presses are good, as are ts and ys. Don’t forget to include antagonistic training - pull ups, rows, etc. Remember to have a deload week every 4 weeks, and ideally switch up training once that 4 week period is up to something else. An example could be: endurance -> strength -> power, where the first 4 weeks is higher reps of lower weight, then lower reps of higher weight, then campus boarding.
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Dec 19, 2021 17:00
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asur posted:I believe the most common shoulder injury for climbing is a rotator cuff tear and you can strengthen your rotator cuff with internal and external rotation exercises either with a band or cable machine. I'm pretty good with rotator cuff PT stuff, I'm really looking toward getting overall strength in my shoulders. Ubiquitus posted:Having strong shoulders is really important for climbers - overhead presses are good, as are ts and ys. Don’t forget to include antagonistic training - pull ups, rows, etc. Getting plenty of pull-ups in already, I'll probably switch them to rows next cycle since I'm not good at them and I've been on pull-ups for quite a while. I'm also really good at deloading every fourth week nowadays. Looks like what I want to so makes sense. I want to do 2 months of strength focused training targeted on weak points(structuring it.similarly to bechtel logical progression program) before going on another round of power company boulder better program to get ready for spring. KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 21:16 on Dec 19, 2021 |
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Dec 19, 2021 21:11
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KingColliwog posted:I'm pretty good with rotator cuff PT stuff, I'm really looking toward getting overall strength in my shoulders. I've seen face pulls recommended to develop climbing specific shoulder strength. I almost never see pros doing any kind of non-PT based shoulder work though, like maybe a bench/overhead press once in a blue moon.
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Dec 20, 2021 01:51
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Ubiquitus posted:Remember to have a deload week every 4 weeks, and ideally switch up training once that 4 week period is up to something else. An example could be: endurance -> strength -> power, where the first 4 weeks is higher reps of lower weight, then lower reps of higher weight, then campus boarding. why do you recommend this
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Dec 20, 2021 04:18
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Verviticus posted:why do you recommend this Not the O, so this is more explanation than recommendation, but Steve Bechtel strongly recommends periodization as part of training for climbing. https://www.climbstrong.com/education-center/tactical-periodization/
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Dec 20, 2021 05:17
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interrodactyl posted:Not the O, so this is more explanation than recommendation, but Steve Bechtel strongly recommends periodization as part of training for climbing. The more specific version of that question might be, why are you telling people to do campus boarding especially people who are looking for advice solving a weakness in their shoulders?
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Dec 20, 2021 05:23
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Oh I missed that it ended in campus boarding which uhhh yeahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh what
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Dec 20, 2021 05:47
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gohuskies posted:The more specific version of that question might be, why are you telling people to do campus boarding especially people who are looking for advice solving a weakness in their shoulders? this is one good question, but i also want to know the answer to the other question which is "why are you recommending this type of periodization for this particular circumstance" and a supplementary "why every four weeks" edit: not to use this to cast judgement on his recommendations, but when looking up this guy i found he maybe killed his wife edit2: not the guy im responding to but the guy on that website, lol Verviticus fucked around with this message at 08:09 on Dec 20, 2021 |
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Dec 20, 2021 06:27
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Mostly to avoid overtraining and injury. 4 weeks isn’t a hard cutoff, but letting the body rest sometime is needed - 6 or 8 weeks could work too depending on the person and the plan
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Dec 20, 2021 14:32
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Every 4th of 5th week as been amazing for me. I just cut volume by 50% or so and it just took care of most of my little "injuries". Also lets me go harder for the 3-4 weeks I'm on. Other bonus is I use the extra time to plan the next bloc and get extra poo poo done at work. Also I'm not going to campus don't worry.
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Dec 20, 2021 16:25
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i feel like if you just want strong shoulders and you want to integrate it into your normal program, the best thing you can do is overhead press and maybe a rear delt exercise twice a week and dont worry about periodizing it or taking a deload every four weeks unless youre just a completely insane person that grinds yourself to a pulp every time you walk into the gym you can easily do a fairly consistent weight lifting program and take a deload for your fingers for your climbing specific training but doing 6-12 sets of shoulder exercises a week, even close to failure, isnt really enough that you need time off that often
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Dec 20, 2021 20:13
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Verviticus posted:i feel like if you just want strong shoulders and you want to integrate it into your normal program, the best thing you can do is overhead press and maybe a rear delt exercise twice a week and dont worry about periodizing it or taking a deload every four weeks unless youre just a completely insane person that grinds yourself to a pulp every time you walk into the gym I don't know, for me starting to take regular forced deloads helped a lot with how healthy I felt and I am always stronger after the deload so I think my body needs it. When I deload I train as hard/frequently, I just remove half the volume of each session. This is something I plan to keep doing going forward. This might be because, even if it pains me to admit it, I'm heading toward my 40s and I think my body needs more rest than it did in the past. I'm not religious about it though, I don't always apply that rule to the weightlifting part of my training and I'll add an extra week or two before a deload if it's more convenient for me or my body feels great. Still mostly stick to it nowadays and I think that's why I'm currently pain free. --- I finished a full run through the Powercompany Proven Plans (Boulder Better for V3-V6 range climbers). If anyone wants a review or has question about that thing I will be happy to talk about it.
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Dec 21, 2021 18:42
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KingColliwog posted:I finished a full run through the Powercompany Proven Plans (Boulder Better for V3-V6 range climbers). If anyone wants a review or has question about that thing I will be happy to talk about it. I'm curious how you liked it? I was thinking of doing a custom Lattice plan, but my friend says he knows a bunch of people who tried them and immediately got injured/couldn't handle the volume they recommended. We're all over 40 so maybe Lattice is good for younger people though. Previously I think my biggest problem with a plan is that I liked just doing whatever in the gym and not structuring my climbing, but now that I'm older and my kid's finally old enough that I can go to the gym regularly again, I like structured climbing a lot more than I used to. Admittedly all that really means now is I have days where I specifically go and try hard stuff and days where I forbid myself from trying anything hard, and I time my rests. Also a lot more board climbing, but that's mostly because I didn't have access to them before. Is it mostly just structured climbing workouts or is there a fair amount of S&C?
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Dec 21, 2021 23:46
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M. Night Skymall posted:I'm curious how you liked it? I was thinking of doing a custom Lattice plan, but my friend says he knows a bunch of people who tried them and immediately got injured/couldn't handle the volume they recommended. We're all over 40 so maybe Lattice is good for younger people though. Previously I think my biggest problem with a plan is that I liked just doing whatever in the gym and not structuring my climbing, but now that I'm older and my kid's finally old enough that I can go to the gym regularly again, I like structured climbing a lot more than I used to. Admittedly all that really means now is I have days where I specifically go and try hard stuff and days where I forbid myself from trying anything hard, and I time my rests. Also a lot more board climbing, but that's mostly because I didn't have access to them before. I really liked it. It was never boring and I felt like what it made me do was useful and I wouldn't have structured session that way by myself. It's hard to say what the results are, but I did send 3 outdoor V5s in quick succession near the end of the program (only had done 1 before) and my 10 sec hang on 20mm went from +7.5 pounds to +25 pounds It's almost only climbing, but your sessions are pretty structured. I think the "normal" schedule they would suggest is 3 days climbing and 1 day SC (up to 4 climbing days and 2 SC days), but you can modify it and they tell you what to do if you want to do more or less and they suggest removing the SC completely if the volume is too much before cutting in the climbing. With the proven plan app, you get to ask Kris and the other coaches (Kris was the one who answered all but 1 of my questions) if there's anything unclear or if you're not sure what to do because of whatever factor and they usually answer before the end of the day. Usually you do two "hard" sessions which mostly follow the following pattern : 10 mins general warm-up 10-15 mins easy climbing focusing on mobility A few problems doing drills (2-3 easier problems, then 2-3 mid grade and then a hard one) Then a very small amount of hangboarding (5 to 7 sets of 7-53 protocol) Bit of rest Working on some problems you can send in a session or two A bit of "limit" bouldering. One "volume" session which changes a bit more over the course of the program but never includes hangboarding SC work can be done with bodyweight stuff or with weights. It's very minimal and fast and does not include hangboarding. KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 13:34 on Dec 23, 2021 |
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Dec 22, 2021 02:12
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M. Night Skymall posted:I'm curious how you liked it? I was thinking of doing a custom Lattice plan, but my friend says he knows a bunch of people who tried them and immediately got injured/couldn't handle the volume they recommended. We're all over 40 so maybe Lattice is good for younger people though. Previously I think my biggest problem with a plan is that I liked just doing whatever in the gym and not structuring my climbing, but now that I'm older and my kid's finally old enough that I can go to the gym regularly again, I like structured climbing a lot more than I used to. Admittedly all that really means now is I have days where I specifically go and try hard stuff and days where I forbid myself from trying anything hard, and I time my rests. Also a lot more board climbing, but that's mostly because I didn't have access to them before. I did a lattice plan recently, and it was undeniably beneficial. They tailor the plans by age and other baseline testing, so they shouldn’t be overloading anyone - that said, there were weeks I took a rest day more than they gave me. the most beneficial aspects of the plan were: 1.) offloading all the mental energy I was spending developing my own plans 2.) having a critical and unbiased 3rd party eye using my baseline tests to develop a plan to minimize my weaknesses 4.) the ease of just pulling up the app and having a timer to do all my workouts was ideal. 5.)I broke up a grade or two in my upper limits from the 3 month plan (inside) 6.) I can project harder outside as well, but I’m not sure exactly how much - this is currently my outside season (there are also too many ancillary variables that affect climbing well outside). I think I will grab another plan in my offseason, just to see how they structure variation in over time. It looks like you’re mostly following what they gave me: heavy board training, and a lot of volume, but there was also a steady diet of core, shoulder, and back workouts. I’m generally in very good shape, but the s & c was still beneficial for me.
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Dec 23, 2021 06:18
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KingColliwog posted:It's almost only climbing, but your sessions are pretty structured. I think the "normal" schedule they would suggest is 3 days climbing and 1 day SC (up to 4 climbing days and 2 SC days), but you can modify it and they tell you what to do if you want to do more or less and they suggest removing the SC completely if the volume is too much before cutting in the climbing. With the proven plan app, you get to ask Kris and the other coaches (Kris was the one who answered all but 1 of my questions) if there's anything unclear or if you're not sure what to do because of whatever factor and they usually answer before the end of the day. Ubiquitus posted:I did a lattice plan recently, and it was undeniably beneficial. They tailor the plans by age and other baseline testing, so they shouldn’t be overloading anyone - that said, there were weeks I took a rest day more than they gave me. That's good to hear, I was planning on going with a Lattice plan in the off season until I talked to my friend. I do more core/shoulder than my log makes it seem like since the mobility stuff also includes spidermans and other "animal" movements that work core/shoulders a bit. I do want to add in more real S&C though after the holidays. I'll probably try Lattice, my friend just spooked me a bit. Thanks for your thoughts guys, that was really helpful.
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Dec 23, 2021 15:22
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I did a Power Company training plan back at the beginning of 2020 (Red River Gorge Pump Prep or something like that). Sounds like a lot of overlap with what KingColliwog talked about but tweaked a bit as the RRG season got closer. I thought it was great. I was feeling very strong at the end of it and, unintentionally, it really increased how much I like bouldering. Probably because before it I really never focused on bouldering for more than a few sessions in a row. Beginning of pandemic in the US caused me to not be able to test it out how I performed at the Red though, so definitely unclear if it would have translated to the level of pump you can achieve at the RRG. I'm pretty confident that something from Lattice or other programs would be beneficial as well, as long as you actually dedicate the time and effort to following them. It is going to come down to putting in the work while listening to your body.
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Dec 23, 2021 15:52
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M. Night Skymall posted:That's pretty close to what I'm doing now, although I don't do any direct S&C currently, but that's mainly because my workouts are a bit random until sometime in January between the holidays and trying to go outside. Just to add to the climbing session structure. For most of the program the volume sessions have similar warm-up up and then you do pyramids (4-2-1-2-4) starting a problem every 2 minutes and having the rest of the timer to rest. You add a half-pyramid every week (you have a nice long rest between each pyramid). The final 4 weeks are harder interval bouldering instead. The SC sessions are supersets (2 sets each and add a set each week). They have different focus in different part of the program 1st super set "upper-body (say push-ups or bench)-Legs(could be pistols or deadlift)-abs(could be hollow body hold)" 2min rest 2nd super set "pull-ups-something else" 2 min rest 3rd super set "leg-shoulder stabilizer-abs" 2 min rest -- Lattice is something I also want to try eventually, but I think I don't need their probably more hardcore/intense approach. Probably next summer or when next autumn outdoor season is done, I think I still have a lot to milk out of the power company program and doing a nice consistent round of logical progression from Bechtel. I might also want to try the climb 5.12 program from PC this spring since I'd like to focus on route climbing outdoor this summer, but since indoor I tend to prefer bouldering it'll be hard to make that sacrifice I think. KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 21:31 on Dec 23, 2021 |
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Dec 23, 2021 17:26
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Have any of you tried the Training Beta programs? I listen to the podcast , but I don’t really know what their reputation is.
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Dec 23, 2021 19:14
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Overhead presses and bench presses are both classic to build antagonist and shoulder strength. However many have with poor shoulder mobility (hello forward rotated shoulders and/or impingement) and struggle with them. For those I recommend joystick presses! Love them!
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Dec 23, 2021 23:25
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Just cancelled my gym membership. First time not being part of a gym in 7 years or so. Kind of weird but just wasn't going enough plus covid stuff. Maybe I will be back in the future.
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Dec 27, 2021 23:14
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Sad  I've debated putting mine on Pause for a month but I can't imagine removing climbing from my life at this point. Just too good of a source of exercise, and a decent social outlet at the gym.
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Dec 27, 2021 23:20
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I hear you. I ski and bike a ton so should be good for now. I will probably climb outside more anyways.
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Dec 27, 2021 23:30
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I actually just restarted my membership after 18 months off. My gym still has mask mandates in place and I’m limiting myself to going at open on Sunday morning where there’s hardly anyone there. Feels good to be back for the time being.
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Dec 28, 2021 00:50
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What's up, climbers? Did you do something you're proud of this year? Maybe you climbed a new personal best grade. Get it burned into your rap sheet forever by posting in the 2021 Achievement Sixxer thread!
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Dec 28, 2021 15:41
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Hi five to all the members of the 2021 first time climbing a v5 team.
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Dec 28, 2021 20:08
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I'm still mildly mad that I spent like 2 months just projecting that one V5 in the cave at my gym and I finally got it and hadn't set up my camera after recording like 30 failed attempts, then never got it again I know grades are completely arbitrary and don't matter but I'll be happy when I get an outdoor V5. Gotten plenty indoors, but my gym is quite soft. Unfortunately without getting nose-probed to go climbing over the border 30 minutes away my only other option is 2 hours away, so not very conducive to putting in the time & effort into any one problem
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Dec 28, 2021 20:25
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