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asur
Dec 28, 2012
I don't think space in the heel indicates aggressiveness. It just indicates the heel is too big. I would go try on every shoe you possibly can and see what fits. I'm unsure if heel size is similar within a brand so other La Sportivas may fit, but definitely try on other brands. Heel inserts should be a last resort if you can't find anything.

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magicalmako
Feb 13, 2005
Mythos forever and ever.

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

Watching the snowboarding Olympics [replay]; we should get ice climbing in the next Winter Games :hmmyes:

Suicide Watch
Sep 8, 2009

magicalmako posted:

Mythos forever and ever.

Just did 5 days at EPC with my Mythos. They worked very well. I keep my pair for outdoor climbing use only.

bltzn
Oct 26, 2020

For the record I do not have a foot fetish.

bltzn posted:

I will look into these options and report back.

Compression shorts seemed to do the trick today! Thanks goons.

Siamang
Nov 15, 2003

bltzn posted:

Does anyone have recommendations for a shoe with a less aggressive heel? I have a pair of Tarantulas and there's just too much space in the heel. Is there even such a thing as a less aggressively heeled shoe, or should I just get some kind of heel inserts?

That's not necessarily an 'aggressive heel', it's just that different brands (and models across the same brand) can have different heel shape and volume regardless of the aggressiveness of the shoe. I've had the same heel space problem with the La Sportivas I've worn, but have found most of the Scarpa and 5.10 models to be much better fits. I have a wide foot and a narrow, fairly low volume heel. Butoras are supposedly also good for that foot shape, but I've never tried those.

Hot Diggity!
Apr 3, 2010

SKELITON_BRINGING_U_ON.GIF
I have and love Butora Acros but I will say that the heel is kinda baggy and that seems to be a fairly common complaint on them.

WOW what a Taco!
Feb 8, 2022

I just got into rock climbing this year and I'm loving it so far, the local gym is awesome and since everything is based on time-slots right now I never have to fight for time on the boulders. Haven't done any belaying yet but I'd like to eventually. I was wondering though, how often does everyone go climbing? I haven't developed a consistent routine yet but I'm finding myself pretty drat sore going ~2 times a week, but I assume that will get better. Maybe every other day type of thing? Do you guys run or something like that during the off-days?

Apologies if this is the wrong thread for indoor climbing, I didn't see a climbing thread in YLLS.

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

I typically go 2-3x per week. I've gone 4, even 5 times in a week often enough when I was first getting really into it but I think that's not super sustainable -- but then like pro climbers seem to do 5-6 days a week pretty regularly, so it's probably just a Conditioning thing. I started when I was 28, they started when they were 8 :v: (probably younger than that, really)

alnilam
Nov 10, 2009

I climb 2-4 times a week. More than 4 and it feels like there'd be diminishing returns, rest days are important.

On off days I might do a few push ups here and there but I don't have time to do anything too regimented, though I do bike for transportation so it's not like I'm doing nothing.

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
Went climbing yesterday for the first time since November. I still suck

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

Oh right, forgot to answer the second question. In the summer I bike to the gym, and I try to snowboard in the winter but that gets expensive real fast.

I don't do anything outside of the gym other than walk my dogs, which is probably why I've been plateauing hard lately.

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕

Sab669 posted:

It really really depends on the specific climb / crag. Some have great flat clean landings, otherwise slide down a short hill. And yea some very sketchy top outs can be very unnerving, even if the climb itself was easy.

I down climbed my first V0 outdoors instead of topping out because the top of the boulder was dusty and I got scared of slipping lol

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008

WOW what a Taco! posted:

I just got into rock climbing this year and I'm loving it so far, the local gym is awesome and since everything is based on time-slots right now I never have to fight for time on the boulders. Haven't done any belaying yet but I'd like to eventually. I was wondering though, how often does everyone go climbing? I haven't developed a consistent routine yet but I'm finding myself pretty drat sore going ~2 times a week, but I assume that will get better. Maybe every other day type of thing? Do you guys run or something like that during the off-days?

Apologies if this is the wrong thread for indoor climbing, I didn't see a climbing thread in YLLS.

It's winter but usually my routine is to climb 1-2x a week in the gym and 1x a week outside. I need to get back on my antagonistic training during my off days since this is me replacing "walk my dogs" with "play with my kid".

Sab669 posted:

I don't do anything outside of the gym other than walk my dogs, which is probably why I've been plateauing hard lately.

I've also gained some weight so I need to fix that too.

TLDR I'm a fat lazy dad

Happiness Commando
Feb 1, 2002
$$ joy at gunpoint $$

Before this past week, I have gym climbed once since COVID started. I got two gym sessions in this past week and was about to reactivate my membership, when my city announced that it was ending the mask mandate.

I am not reactivating my gym membership :(

WOW what a Taco!
Feb 8, 2022

Thanks for the feedback everyone, that's about what I figured. I'm thinking I'm going to plan to go every other day and see how I feel on rest days about doing other stuff. Maybe I'll wait a little while until I'm not so sore after each session to do cardio or something on off days haha.

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs
I usually climb 3 or 4 times a week.

On my off days I either do nothing, some easy yoga or some light cardio (hiking, snowshoeing, rowing 5k in 30 mins). Getting rest is super important. If you do something on off days, make sure it is light stuff or you can easily dig a recovery hole. Listen to your body basically

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

Slimy Hog posted:

I've also gained some weight so I need to fix that too.

TLDR I'm a fat lazy dad

Yea I've been rehabbing some long term finger pain for the last 4 weeks, definitely just been putting a shitload of hours into video games and eating a lot of pizza. Gonna be rough when I get back to the gym next week probably.

Endjinneer
Aug 17, 2005
Fallen Rib
[

KingColliwog posted:

Listen to your body basically
A thousand times this. Gym bouldering is really beguiling and it's a gateway to a whole world of adventure. It's also drat hard on the connective tissue in ways that take time to understand.
I climb twice a week and run twice a week when things are going well.

Shelvocke
Aug 6, 2013

Microwave Engraver
I decided that hangboarding was missing from my life, so made one with some leftover oak from workshop project. I enjoyed the process a lot so I'm going to get a router and make a MK2 with better, cleaner holes and more variation.



I started doing the Abrahmsson finger strength program about a week ago and my fingers already feel a lot stronger.

ploots
Mar 19, 2010
Thats really nice looking for a home brew board.

Having a variety of hold depths is more useful than a variety of widths: you can hold a 4 finger edge with only 2 fingers, but you cant really hold half a 20mm edge to train 10mm. If you make another board, model it off of the tension simple boards: wide flat edges at a couple of depths.

Shelvocke
Aug 6, 2013

Microwave Engraver

Electoral Surgery posted:

Thats really nice looking for a home brew board.

Having a variety of hold depths is more useful than a variety of widths: you can hold a 4 finger edge with only 2 fingers, but you cant really hold half a 20mm edge to train 10mm. If you make another board, model it off of the tension simple boards: wide flat edges at a couple of depths.

Thanks, and yeah, I'd already enthusiastically cut most of the holes before realising I'd be better off with different depths. Next time.

Aramoro
Jun 1, 2012




Anyone here from Atlanta? I'm going to be there for a bit and looking for a decent climbing gym recommendation.

SplitDestiny
Sep 25, 2004
I climb fairly consistently every other day. If I am feeling rough or tired from whatever, I'm not afraid to take an extra rest day. Those times when I take the extra rest tend to be when I send the hardest (~V9-10 in my gym) but I also find that I need more frequent climbing consistency for a while (several weeks worth) before the rest helps.

Slow News Day
Jul 4, 2007

Building a climbing wall in my backyard. Any recommendations for holds?

I don't want to break the bank, but I'd also rather avoid used ones if possible.

jiggerypokery
Feb 1, 2012

...But I could hardly wait six months with a red hot jape like that under me belt.

Used ones are the way to go for home walls. If you really don't want to, otherwise try to buy local. They are very heavy. I'm not sure where you are but I'd get whoever makes the best holds nearest rather than asking who makes the best globally. There are lots of good manufacturers and a mix is best anyway

zeesik
Nov 30, 2010
Grimey Drawer
.

zeesik fucked around with this message at 10:28 on Feb 8, 2024

ploots
Mar 19, 2010
My oldest pad has been getting soft for the last two years or so, and this weekend it was obviously past the point where I could pretend it was still useful. I went to order a new one to replace it and found out that Organic now sells fresh foam, so you don't have to trash/recycle the fabric. That's pretty cool and a lot cheaper than a new pad.

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

That's really nice. And then you get to keep your cool/unqiue design :D

Augster
Aug 5, 2011

Found a local old quarry wall that hadn't been climbed before so I spent that past couple weekends cleaning it and did the FAs of a few nice lines. Basically highball bouldering on a rope/Brit-style trad. This one was my favorite:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KM7oMsR7uZE
Though rewatching that made me realize just how much I unnecessarily chalk up

Endjinneer
Aug 17, 2005
Fallen Rib

Augster posted:

Found a local old quarry wall that hadn't been climbed before so I spent that past couple weekends cleaning it and did the FAs of a few nice lines. Basically highball bouldering on a rope/Brit-style trad. This one was my favorite:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KM7oMsR7uZE
Though rewatching that made me realize just how much I unnecessarily chalk up

Nice.

bolind
Jun 19, 2005



Pillbug
I've been out of the game for a handful of years (don't have kids, kids) but we're now getting to the point where I could conceivably take the boy out for some fun.

What's the recommendation these days for harnesses for kids, in particular a 4.5 year old? Full body or are they good in a normal style one?

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

bolind posted:

I've been out of the game for a handful of years (don't have kids, kids) but we're now getting to the point where I could conceivably take the boy out for some fun.

What's the recommendation these days for harnesses for kids, in particular a 4.5 year old? Full body or are they good in a normal style one?

Get a full body. I have the Momentum Full body and it's great for all three of my kids. I got it when the twins were almost 3 and my oldest is now almost 7 and the fit was perfect on the chubby twins and on the super thin older brother. The harness still has plenty of room left for them to grow, so you should get many years out of it. Full body makes it safer and also way easier/less scary for the kids so there's more chance they'll like it.

Augster posted:

Found a local old quarry wall that hadn't been climbed before so I spent that past couple weekends cleaning it and did the FAs of a few nice lines. Basically highball bouldering on a rope/Brit-style trad. This one was my favorite:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KM7oMsR7uZE
Though rewatching that made me realize just how much I unnecessarily chalk up

Good job, can't wait for the snow to melt so I can go outside again! Cleaning and "creating" routes in particular must be so fun. Wish I get the chance to do that at some point in the future!

KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 14:07 on Mar 9, 2022

Anza Borrego
Feb 11, 2005

Ovis canadensis nelsoni

Augster posted:

Found a local old quarry wall that hadn't been climbed before so I spent that past couple weekends cleaning it and did the FAs of a few nice lines. Basically highball bouldering on a rope/Brit-style trad. This one was my favorite:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KM7oMsR7uZE
Though rewatching that made me realize just how much I unnecessarily chalk up

This is extremely cool, please post more about it.

Ive been doing the basic fitness part of the Training for the New Alpinism routine in preparation for summer alpine climbing, hopefully one of the routes up Whitney. Im a few weeks in and my climbing has mostly been focused on volume - climbing 2 number grades lower than my limit, and running at least 2 laps on every route. The goal is to climb in Zone 1 and 2, so Im wearing a HRM while on the wall. Its taken some time to dial in the pace but all the volume definitely feels like it is helping me out as I start to add limit climbing back in.

So far the program is solid, and combined with healthy eating has helped get me in better climbing shape. Im not sure if I will be able to hit all of the workouts, but if I can do most of the plan I should be prepared for East Buttress and/or Fishhook Arete in July or August.

Setting goals and following a training plan good?

Augster
Aug 5, 2011

Anza Borrego posted:

This is extremely cool, please post more about it.

The wall itself is about 30ft tall and is crisscrossed by two large cracks, one diagonal and one horizontal. As I was cleaning out the diagonal crack I noticed the big jug shelf on this route with a seemingly blank face below it. But lo and behold,

a small break, with two tiny crimps, halfway between the main horizontal crack and the jug!

The first crimp on the right is awful, just a sloped chip in the rock with barely any edge for 2ish fingertips, but it's enough to get your locked off right arm fully extended to bump to the better crimp up and left, about a half-pad for 3 fingers. Then just pop to the jug and do a lil runout to the next spot to plug gear, right at ground-fall level.

KingColliwog posted:

Cleaning and "creating" routes in particular must be so fun. Wish I get the chance to do that at some point in the future!
The anticipation is the best part, brushing each hold and visualizing how it will be used. Prying off a sheet of choss and hoping it doesn't connect to a crucial hold next to it, or hoping it doesn't reveal a good hold and ruin what would have been a wicked hard crux.
Most of the cleaning needed on this route was in the horizontal break, as you can see it was full of dirt and choss, but the overall rock quality on this section of the wall is great. As for the diagonal crack, which I spent hours cleaning, it sucks. Only one decent handjam on the route, it's still chossy in the back of the crack, shallow in some areas and doesn't take gear well.

Augster fucked around with this message at 06:57 on Mar 11, 2022

tortilla_chip
Jun 13, 2007

k-partite
Got to scratch the tufa itch.


Mammacita

tildes
Nov 16, 2018
What are the biggest rock climbing shoe brands/makes? A size 13 tarantulace fits, but those are getting worn down and Id like something more aggro. I tried a size 14 butora and size 13.5 Evolv X1 and both are distinctly too small, I can barely get them on and my toes are all entirely curled up to the point the front is like bulging on the top lmao. A lot of brands seem to just not sell anything larger than this, and they arent stocked in stores near me in this size often (even when ordering for In store pickup).

It seems like Sportiva would be the best bet given that the tarantulace fit, but a lot of their models dont seem to go above 12.5. Eg the solution 12.5 is the max

tildes fucked around with this message at 00:51 on Mar 13, 2022

ploots
Mar 19, 2010
When I tried on X1s they felt much smaller than other evolv shoes in the same size. Maybe try one of their other models.

foutre
Sep 4, 2011

:toot: RIP ZEEZ :toot:
On a related note, I'm in the same boat trying to find shoes that fit. I've got size 47 Tarantulace at the moment, which could probably go a little smaller - although my toes are pretty snug - but the 13.5 Evolv X1s were too small to get on my foot, and my toes curled to the point that it was too painful to get on holds in size 45 Solutions.

I want to try some more aggressive/sensitive shoes for indoor bouldering, but I'm having trouble finding anything that fits. Are there any shoes in particular that are known for running large, or stretching out more? I don't need them to be as comfortable as the Tarantulace, but I'm not even at the point of being able to get a lot of these on my feet.

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asur
Dec 28, 2012
If you can go smaller in a 47 Tarantulace then in theory I'd expect a 46 to fit and the Solution, Miura and Skawma all come in that size and are slightly different highly aggressive shoes. The Katana also comes in 46 and is less aggressive than those 3 but more aggressive than the Tarantulace.

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