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KillHour posted:There are a few things in the US where the highway patrol shuts down a straight-ish stretch of highway and you can legally go well over posted speed limits as long as you pay the entrance fee and have the appropriate safety gear. There should be more of that. Yes that would be great. And fair play to all the responses, except Kyoon calling me a loving moron :-( my opinion was pretty dumb in hindsight, and it’s better to be safe than sorry when dealing with steel and speed.
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Feb 28, 2022 04:16
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KillHour posted:There are a few things in the US where the highway patrol shuts down a straight-ish stretch of highway and you can legally go well over posted speed limits as long as you pay the entrance fee and have the appropriate safety gear. There should be more of that. West of Ann Arbor, Huron River Driver follows the course of the river, which means it naturally has some nice curves. It's also used by people out for a scenic drive, a scenic bicycle ride, etc, so the 35mph speed limit makes sense. I've thought for years that the city ought to close it for one day each year and charge people $100 a shot to drive a long stretch of it without restraint. Split the money 50/50 between the city and the poor (edit: meaning misfortunate; they are certainly not economically poor on the stretch I mean) people who live there and get stuck at home for a day, and I think everyone might come out ahead in the end. Zorak of Michigan fucked around with this message at 16:46 on Feb 28, 2022 |
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Feb 28, 2022 07:08
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Zorak of Michigan posted:West of Ann Arbor, Huron River Driver follows the course of the river, which means it naturally has some nice curves. It's also used by people out for a scenic drive, a scenic bicycle ride, etc, so the 35mph speed limit makes sense. I've thought for years that the city ought to close it for one day each year and charge people $100 a shot to drive a long stretch of it without restraint. Split the money 50/50 between the city and the poor people who live there and get stuck at home for a day, and I think everyone might come out ahead in the end. It’s like the only interesting driving road for a hundred miles
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Feb 28, 2022 14:14
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my father in law just paid $27k for a base model corolla it does not have keyless entry the dealer would not let him test drive it prior to purchase
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Mar 3, 2022 03:37
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The one with an MSRP of $20175?
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Mar 3, 2022 06:13
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Wrong thread, my mistake.
AreWeDrunkYet fucked around with this message at 18:56 on Mar 3, 2022 |
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Mar 3, 2022 18:13
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Me and a Craigslist seller agreed on a price for his Rav4. Only hitch is he has an outstanding lien on the vehicle with Toyota. He said the only way to resolve the lien is to overnight a cashiers check to Toyota, and then it will be two weeks to get the title from them. So he suggested I write him or Toyota a cashiers check for the remaining balance on the Lien, take the car while we wait to receive the clean title, and then pay the remaining balance upon transfer of that title. Seems fairly straight forward but I’ve never done this before. Any red flags here? I’d make sure we signed something that lays out the terms and probably ask him for a copy of his Id and a statement from his lender stating the outstanding balance of the lien.
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Mar 3, 2022 22:57
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If they can't release the lien in person with you visiting the bank with the seller you're generally recommended to use escrow. There be dragons in any selling process that involves the term "waiting for a clean title." Even the best intentioned sellers can hit snags in releasing the lien, and driving on an untransferred title can get legally messy quickly. The process you describe isn't unheard of and in hellmarket they are probably going to find someone willing to go the quick and dirty route so they might tell you to shove off if you ask to set up an escrow for their financier even if you front the fees.
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Mar 4, 2022 01:46
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Hadlock posted:Thinking about getting a 1940s or 1950s Citroen Traction Avant I have a guy named Serge with a thick french accent looking at this car for me tomorrow. Last two are embeded videos (probably)      https://i.imgur.com/urGJiPV.mp4 https://i.imgur.com/Uog3qhZ.mp4 Only 2/3rds the cost of the current market rate of a base toyota corolla*  *to start It's a 1954. Although the car was designed and started production in 1934 which is why it's styled more like a 1934 jag and not a 1955 bel aire. If you turn on the sound in the video you can hear the guy shifting too fast and not letting the synchros do their thing but otherwise, sounds good.  The car also comes with a story: apparently some mennonites from belgium went to the congo and this was their car there as missionaries, they when that wrapped up, they then drove it across the congo, across tanzania, shiped it up the african coast through the red sea to egypt, then drove it through israel, turkey, greece italy etc back to belgium, then later shipped it via the queen mary to new york and drove it to the west coast where it got restored at some point in the last decade or so. Very top gear special type thing. The owner wrote a book about an inch thick, full of photos of the car in various places about his travels and signed the book, book comes with the car. 90,000km (55k miles) engine has replacable piston liners and parts are readily available as they made ~750,000 of these and shipped them all over the world This has the later 11d engine which I guess was the only one that came with an oil filter from the factory, which means 3000 mile oil changes, rather than 1000 mile oil changes Also this is the "ligere" or light model, they made a larger version that's about 6" wider and 7" longer wheelbase, and on the used market costs about double, but they share the same 4 cyl engine. The "normale" with the larger engine had an option for a ~85hp 6 cylinder. The ligere is still fairly large, it's about 70" wide and ~165" long over-all
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Mar 5, 2022 05:36
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Got the last document to sign for that new Pacifica I'm about to buy. It's an Agreement to Arbitrate. The dealership's reviews are stellar, but I asked them to remove that. Aside from that my experience has been great. Unlike the last dealer they kept trying to find an excuse to lower the price after the agreement instead of raising it, which was a good switch. Am i worrying over nothing since the dealership has a good rep and it's a new car? Or should I push against that since it's a remote sale and technically if they send me a twinkie instead of a car it'd need to go through the American arbitration association across the country? I asked them to remove it because it sounds like if they send me a lemon i'd be stuck with it as it stands now. edit: added a link to the contract, sans PII edit2: If it matters, the dealership's reviews google are 4.7 stars with well over 1.4k folks, with nearly every negative review having to do with people not understanding how reality works (such as being denied a loan for a good reason, the dealership not agreeing to do something that clearly violates a law, or the dealership's service lot doing bog-standard stuff like charging more for new wipers than it would cost to buy/change them yourself). Edit3: Yeah, I'm overthinking this because of my experience with the previous dealer. This is a new car, so if it's a lemon or something I'll deal with Chrysler, not them. I'm not financing with them , so that is out of scope (I'm getting 1.49% at a credit union I used for a number of cars before). I declined all the upsale of an extended warranty, so there's nothing odd in addition to the car. And anything else I can think of that they could possibly do would be flat-out criminal or covered by insurance. I haven't seen any indication of them pulling something like this based on scouring review sites and looking at their negative reviews (which seem to be complaining about trivial things or stuff where the customer was waaay too entitled). diadem fucked around with this message at 01:13 on Mar 6, 2022 |
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Mar 5, 2022 17:10
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Hadlock posted:I have a guy named Serge with a thick french accent looking at this car for me tomorrow. Last two are embeded videos (probably) Offer accepted Now to arrange cross-country transport... Edit: it's soooo shiny  
Hadlock fucked around with this message at 04:13 on Mar 7, 2022 |
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Mar 7, 2022 03:39
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diadem posted:Got the last document to sign for that new Pacifica I'm about to buy. It's an Agreement to Arbitrate. The dealership's reviews are stellar, but I asked them to remove that. Arbitration is terrible and horribly anti-consumer, but they'll probably tell you to pound sand if you demand it be removed because they're not hurting for someone else to buy the car. The arbitration agreement was in the middle of other poo poo for ours, and while I grumbled at them about it, I signed it because there's not really any other choice if you want to walk out of there with your vehicle right now. Plus, because it's so good for corporations, you're seeing it everywhere now and it's going to keep trending in that direction.
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Mar 7, 2022 13:18
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Yeah, you don't get a lot of choices to avoid arbitration these days. It's anti-consumer impact is mostly obstructionary at least. Contracts can't supersede civil or criminal law so it doesn't preclude criminal action in parallel and you can still take an arbitration result to civil court if it doesn't smell right or it otherwise seems not impartial but that's obviously a mountain of legal fees later. Also because arbitration is so popular now sometimes their arbitration forums are booked solid beyond a reasonable time period and you go to civil court anyway.
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Mar 7, 2022 15:22
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Hadlock posted:Offer accepted nice congrats!
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Mar 7, 2022 15:23
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I have a decision to make in a few months. The lease on my 2019 G70 is up at the end of July with a residual value of around $26k. Looking at similarly equipped used models with similar mileage, they're listed in the low to mid-30s in my area. I've switched to a mostly remote position and my wife and I have another vehicle that she uses to commute to work and we use for most of our joint trips like to see friends or get groceries. Should I buy out the lease when it's up and turn around and sell it and pocket some profit and move down to a 1 car family, keep the G70, or use the profit from buying it out on maybe a less fancy, used car (with an inflated value given the current market) so that we can have two vehicles still? I guess that's more a question where I need to ask myself what my use case is. I think I have put 6000 miles on the G70 since November 2020, so I am barely driving it, but I don't live in a walkable area or one with good public transportation, so it's nice to have if I need to go somewhere during the day. I think whichever way I go is fine, as long as I don't just turn it in at the end and have nothing to show for it. Are there other questions I should ask myself that I'm not thinking of? Has anybody else been in this situation recently?
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Mar 8, 2022 14:56
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Buy the lease out either way. I would not trade it in for a cheaper used car, the market is too crazy. If you want to have 2 cars, keep the car. If you don't, sell it and pocket the money. Is there any possibility you will go back to the office and need 2 cars? Is there any time you and your wife need to be on opposite sides of the city? Any time you need to travel and can't rent a car and will leave your wife stranded, carless? Any reason to get a different, more utilitarian vehicle like a small truck or something? If no, might as well sell the car and not replace it. Mustache Ride fucked around with this message at 16:05 on Mar 8, 2022 |
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Mar 8, 2022 16:01
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Absolutely buy out the lease
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Mar 8, 2022 16:34
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Sharparoni posted:I have a decision to make in a few months. The lease on my 2019 G70 is up at the end of July with a residual value of around $26k. Looking at similarly equipped used models with similar mileage, they're listed in the low to mid-30s in my area. I've switched to a mostly remote position and my wife and I have another vehicle that she uses to commute to work and we use for most of our joint trips like to see friends or get groceries. Should I buy out the lease when it's up and turn around and sell it and pocket some profit and move down to a 1 car family, keep the G70, or use the profit from buying it out on maybe a less fancy, used car (with an inflated value given the current market) so that we can have two vehicles still? I guess that's more a question where I need to ask myself what my use case is. I think I have put 6000 miles on the G70 since November 2020, so I am barely driving it, but I don't live in a walkable area or one with good public transportation, so it's nice to have if I need to go somewhere during the day. My opinion: Buy the car out at the end of the lease and keep it for now. This is a terrible market for buying any sort of car right now. So unless you're 120% sure you can go down to a 1 car family, keep the car. I've been remote for about 5 years now. I just went and got my cars annual inspection done. I've driven 2400 miles in the last year, and less than 6,000 miles in the last 3 years. The majority of those miles are me driving on Sunday just to use my car because it's been sitting for 2 weeks. I'm not getting rid of it though, I have to have a 2nd vehicle for a quarterly trip into home office, and in case I need to pickup my kids from school, or some other unexpected trip. 99% of our trips are in the car my wife drives, but having a 2nd car is a necessity for us. I'm in a quasi rural/suburb type area so any sort of quick car rental or uber/lyft is generally out of the question. I've leased several cars, and twice I've traded them in early before lease end as they were worth more than the buyout price, and applied the "equity" to the next vehicle. The 2017 Explorer we leased I ended up buying at the end as we wanted to keep the car and the market at the time was soft for the car (2020's had just come out). The downside about that, is here in Texas that's a taxable event and ended up paying sales tax on the buyout price of the car, in addition to paying sales tax the first time when we leased the car. Texas is not a lease friendly state, or at least not as friendly as other states. The process was painless though, I contacted my Credit Union for a lease buyout loan, got approved, and went down to the dealer and signed some papers. In and out in like an hour. I'm not sure how Genesis is handling early lease buyouts right now, when I "traded" my leases in early, Ford was cool with it. A lot of manufacturers are not letting that happen right now. If Genesis is, you can see if Carvana, Vroom, or one of those other outfits is willing to offer you a fortune to buy the car from you. Figure out if you want to keep the car or not, and then run the numbers on which scenario is better for you. You'll probably be paying sales tax on the residual, so make sure to account for that. I got hit for like 1800 bucks when I did my lease buyout in sales tax. 
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Mar 8, 2022 16:38
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skipdogg posted:Figure out if you want to keep the car or not, and then run the numbers on which scenario is better for you. You'll probably be paying sales tax on the residual, so make sure to account for that. I got hit for like 1800 bucks when I did my lease buyout in sales tax. PSA: if you keep the car you have to pay sales tax on the remainder (boo) but if you do a third party buyout to like car max or whatever, you don't (yay). But then you need to buy a different car so
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Mar 8, 2022 16:42
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I'm guessing I should give up looking for a car for awhile? Been trying to track down a Toyota Sienna and not having much luck. One dealer might have one but with an extra $5k markup. I don't need the car that badly. Others don't have stock and don't seem to be even willing to like order or hold one for me.
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Mar 9, 2022 19:23
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c355n4 posted:I'm guessing I should give up looking for a car for awhile? Been trying to track down a Toyota Sienna and not having much luck. One dealer might have one but with an extra $5k markup. I don't need the car that badly. Others don't have stock and don't seem to be even willing to like order or hold one for me. Probably. It does depend on where you are, dealerships, etc. My wife got a new Sienna back in January for under MSRP and there were actually others at another nearby dealership (but that one was marking up more in line with what you're seeing).
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Mar 9, 2022 20:22
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If you want a car but don't need a car now is still a bad time to get a car. If you need a car or decide you really do want the car very much you can make it happen but you're at several disadvantages that means you probably need to compromise on over price vs manufacturer specific availability vs far or near dealers having more consumer friendly shortage plans.
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Mar 9, 2022 20:38
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If crumple zones and anti lock brakes don't matter to you, there's a pretty good selection of classic car sedans and station wagons, in addition to the usual mix of mustangs etc in the high teens, low 20s ready to go Recently looked at a number of 1960s Ford mustangs, most with air conditioning, lots of them in stock, any garage can work on them
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Mar 9, 2022 21:38
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I occasionally look up the price of the car I already overpaid for in October 2021, and it's currently going for around for 4k more than that. We're talking a used entry level Kia with over 40k miles. It's extremely depressing.
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Mar 9, 2022 22:16
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is selling a car to carvana a good idea? I get overwhelmed at the dealer
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Mar 9, 2022 22:29
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Explosionface posted:Probably. It does depend on where you are, dealerships, etc. My wife got a new Sienna back in January for under MSRP and there were actually others at another nearby dealership (but that one was marking up more in line with what you're seeing). Probably doesn't help that I'm in NJ. Guess I'll wait a year. A minivan would make life easier; but, its not needed.
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Mar 9, 2022 23:25
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A MIRACLE posted:is selling a car to carvana a good idea? I get overwhelmed at the dealer Depends on how much they give you. I sold my Kia to them when the lease was about to be up (I think it was Car Max, actually, but same thing) and I got like 7k over my residual. You can probably get more from a private party by haggling and one of the benefits in trading into a dealer is if you buy your new car from them, you are exempt from the sales tax on the amount your old car trade in was worth (so if you buy a 25k car and your old car is 5k in trade, you only pay sales tax on the 20k). But both of those options are more work and stress. So yeah... it depends. But there's nothing inherently wrong with it if you're getting a good deal.
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Mar 9, 2022 23:28
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I've been driving a 2005 Toyota Matrix XR for 10 years now. It's a great car but I need something bigger now (family). I drove a friend's Rav4 prime SE - pretty fun to drive, has the amount of room I want, and it's a Toyota. They appear at the local dealer from time to time. There's also the XSE, but from what I can tell it's just a 4 k trim upgrade (with the option to pay 6 k for a faster charger.. no thanks). There are still about $9,500 in rebates for this vehicle. I've never bought a brand new car and always done my own maintenance. Now I don't really have time to maintain an older car and we need something bigger. I guess I'm looking for general thoughts.
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Mar 9, 2022 23:54
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The RAV4 Prime kicks rear end and is also very hard to find right now. I would have bought one in a heartbeat if I could've found one locally. I have a friend with one, he only paid $500 over sticker (lol 2022) and he is very happy. I overpaid for a lightly used Chevy Volt instead.
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Mar 10, 2022 00:01
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Tyro posted:The RAV4 Prime kicks rear end and is also very hard to find right now. I would have bought one in a heartbeat if I could've found one locally. I have a friend with one, he only paid $500 over sticker (lol 2022) and he is very happy. I overpaid for a lightly used Chevy Volt instead. When I bought my RAV4 in 2021, the Prime was on an 8+ month waitlist at the time. Really wish I sucked it up and waited! Went for the regular hybrid instead and it's been great, 13k miles later.
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Mar 11, 2022 00:44
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My friend's car was stolen, and he is shopping for a new one. He's aware that this isn't a great time to be shopping, which is very inconsiderate of the thieves.
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Mar 11, 2022 02:44
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I'd go for the GTI as it probably has the least hateful automatic of the group. (that said, get a manual) Please note that modern cars are super hard to steal without either expensive equipment (or a tow truck), so I wouldn't worry much about that. Older hondas are basically the easiest car to steal ever. I wouldn't shop on "will people steal this." Also the cars that people tend to steal are cars with valuable part outs, which actually tend to be mid-low end used cars, not lux cars. nm fucked around with this message at 02:49 on Mar 11, 2022 |
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Mar 11, 2022 02:47
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The Integra along with similar era Accords, Civics and Camrys are some of the most stolen cars on a consistent basis. Mazda3 or Civic Si would be the only choices I would consider for a modern, good handling sedan that is reliable. There's also the GLI, but why bother when the GTI is better? If open to other body styles, the Hyundai Veloster N and the VW GTI are also very good, as are various Minis if you are tolerant of dubious reliability. If your friend is very concerned with sight lines, the VWs are generally better for this than competitors. Still won't be like an Integra, though.
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Mar 11, 2022 02:52
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Hadlock posted:If crumple zones and anti lock brakes don't matter to you, there's a pretty good selection of classic car sedans and station wagons, in addition to the usual mix of mustangs etc in the high teens, low 20s ready to go The cheapest, worst new car sold today in America is better in every metric (other than “looks cool” and maybe “fast in a straight line”) than a 60s Mustang. Finding a garage with techs that can rejet a carb or check gap on distributor’s points probably isn’t that common.
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Mar 11, 2022 03:04
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nm posted:I'd go for the GTI as it probably has the least hateful automatic of the group. (that said, get a manual) KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:The Integra along with similar era Accords, Civics and Camrys are some of the most stolen cars on a consistent basis. Thanks! I passed all this along to him, with a strong suggestion to test drive a GTI. He is hesitant to go outside Japanese makes for fear of reliability issues. Is that a real concern with VW these days? I know my dad's 2006 GTI has had zero problems, but it also doesn't have a lot of miles on it. Also is there anything worth considering in the Lexus or other luxury brand areas? I'm not sure he'd go for those, but if there's something worth test driving he may do it. Keeping in mind that reliability and low maintenance cost is important to him.
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Mar 11, 2022 03:09
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Unless you go for the really high strung/stressed (150+ HP/L) engines, it doesn't matter if you go Japanese, German, American or Korean - it'll be fine. All modern cars are reliable if you take care of them. Maybe still don't go Italian or British though
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Mar 11, 2022 08:06
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KillHour posted:Unless you go for the really high strung/stressed (150+ HP/L) engines, it doesn't matter if you go Japanese, German, American or Korean - it'll be fine. All modern cars are reliable if you take care of them. It's just shy of 150HP/L (2.0, 268HP stock), but the FA20DIT in the 2015-2021 WRX seems to be actually really reliable comparatively. Mine's putting out about 300HP now and all I've had go wrong was a dead front O2 sensor in the exhaust, and in general they don't seem to have a lot of reliability complaints. So there's exceptions to that rule, but nobody accidentally buys a car with 150HP/L so presumably they'd have done specific research for that. I'll agree with your post as a whole though - that said, how reliable are modern car transmissions across the board? I feel like that's where things seem to go worse with certain ones. ssb fucked around with this message at 19:21 on Mar 12, 2022 |
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Mar 11, 2022 12:55
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shortspecialbus posted:It's just shy of 150HP/L So, not an exception?
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Mar 11, 2022 15:59
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I'm not saying a car with that much power per liter will immediately blow up; I'm saying modern cars that don't have that kind of power are categorically reliable because they're comparatively under-stressed. I have two cars with that kind of output from the factory, one of them is tuned even past that, and I haven't had engine issues with either (although one of them had a recall relating to the engine). That being said, you're probably not going to get 250k miles out of a tuned to gently caress WRX running 25+ PSI with nothing but oil changes, which is what I mean when I say "reliable" KillHour fucked around with this message at 16:12 on Mar 11, 2022 |
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Mar 11, 2022 16:01
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incogneato posted:Thanks! I passed all this along to him, with a strong suggestion to test drive a GTI. He is hesitant to go outside Japanese makes for fear of reliability issues. Is that a real concern with VW these days? I know my dad's 2006 GTI has had zero problems, but it also doesn't have a lot of miles on it. Since you said stolen I assume your friend does not have time to wait, but there is a new Integra coming out soon. If you buy a slightly used Mk 7.5 VW GTI it will be pretty reliable. The thing with Ze Chermans is that they are just a bit fussy. You have to keep up with maintenance schedules religiously, you have to do the preventative maintenance by the book, and you have to use certain OEM components. For instance, if you don't use VW coolant formulations in VWs, bad things happen. If you don't use the correctly formulated oil, bad things happen. These add up to a slight increase in cost, and a need for general fastidiousness. If your friend isn't up for that, it's probably not for him. Also, the DSG is a great automatic transmission, but it does require a fairly extensive service every 40,000 miles.
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Mar 11, 2022 17:16
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