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n0tqu1tesane
May 7, 2003

She was rubbing her ass all over my hands. They don't just do that for everyone.
Grimey Drawer

Lead out in cuffs posted:

But it does lack zigzag and stretch stitch, which can be limiting.


I mean, this is always an option. I've never used one, but it doesn't seem like it'd be nearly as good as a machine with a factory zigzag.

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learnincurve
May 15, 2014

Smoosh
Be aware though, the needles are the same no matter the age of the singer, the bobbin may be a pain in the balls if the machine is pre 1920. Each cast iron singer will have a number stamped on it and you can check the age of it on https://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/serial-numbers/singer-sewing-machine-serial-number-database.html

gregday
May 23, 2003

I am trying to set some snap fasteners into leather and holy poo poo I can not make this work. I’m using these buttons:

https://www.etsy.com/listing/126551346

And this setting tool:

https://www.etsy.com/listing/155916740

And it just doesn’t work. Either side (socket or stud). I’m using a sturdy framing hammer and I even gave it like 50 hard whacks (and I’m a big guy). The flared tip starts to roll the post, but then doesn’t go all the way and any further hammering just starts to malform the post.

What could I possibly be missing here? The buttons and the tool both say for Line 24.

cloudy
Jul 3, 2007

Alive to the universe; dead to the world.
Did you watch the video in that Etsy listing description? That might help you to see any glaring differences in what you and they are doing.

It's hard for me to really get a good idea of the issue via text because I am bad at reading, but the only main thing I can think of that could be a problem is maybe your leather is too thick or thin for the post length? Are you using the setting anvil they recommend with the setting tool?

Aaaand that's my basic troubleshooting. Maybe someone else can chime in with more info if they know what's up.

I'm actually a leather worker by trade, but we use the dies that fit into machines to set that type of snap, so I haven't had to use the hand tools for those very often.

gregday
May 23, 2003

cloudy posted:

Did you watch the video in that Etsy listing description? That might help you to see any glaring differences in what you and they are doing.

It's hard for me to really get a good idea of the issue via text because I am bad at reading, but the only main thing I can think of that could be a problem is maybe your leather is too thick or thin for the post length? Are you using the setting anvil they recommend with the setting tool?

Aaaand that's my basic troubleshooting. Maybe someone else can chime in with more info if they know what's up.

I'm actually a leather worker by trade, but we use the dies that fit into machines to set that type of snap, so I haven't had to use the hand tools for those very often.

I’ve tried it with leather, felt, and empty. Problem is I never get the post flared out enough. It’s always loose and jangling, which of course means the snap won’t close either. I am using the anvil.

This is my “best” one, and the post still won’t roll any further, sticks up too far to close the snap, and even this took like 50 hard whacks.




Edit: I’ve watched videos. This doesn’t seem that complicated. Punch hole in material, out post through hole, pit socket or stud on post through other side of material. Place on anvil. Hammer a few times until snap is set. But these fuckers just won’t flare enough.

gregday fucked around with this message at 03:54 on Mar 25, 2022

Lead out in cuffs
Sep 18, 2012

"That's right. We've evolved."

"I can see that. Cool mutations."




gregday posted:

I’ve tried it with leather, felt, and empty. Problem is I never get the post flared out enough. It’s always loose and jangling, which of course means the snap won’t close either. I am using the anvil.

This is my “best” one, and the post still won’t roll any further, sticks up too far to close the snap, and even this took like 50 hard whacks.




Edit: I’ve watched videos. This doesn’t seem that complicated. Punch hole in material, out post through hole, pit socket or stud on post through other side of material. Place on anvil. Hammer a few times until snap is set. But these fuckers just won’t flare enough.

Do you have the correct size of setting tool? Looks like it comes in "line 20" and "line 24". Those studs you linked are "line 24".

gregday
May 23, 2003

Lead out in cuffs posted:

Do you have the correct size of setting tool? Looks like it comes in "line 20" and "line 24". Those studs you linked are "line 24".

Yep both explicitly purchased as Line 24.

Lead out in cuffs
Sep 18, 2012

"That's right. We've evolved."

"I can see that. Cool mutations."




Maybe check with the seller? Those things should just take a few taps. Maybe they sent you the wrong size by mistake or something?

cloudy
Jul 3, 2007

Alive to the universe; dead to the world.
Is that these 2 pieces, aligned in this way with material between? It almost looks like the piece on the right is upside down on your example... But maybe it just got deformed because you hammered it a lot.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

cloudy
Jul 3, 2007

Alive to the universe; dead to the world.
Here's a close up of what the button-side of my snaps look like. The outside rim doesn't fold down over the interior ring, and the ring still rattles around a bit in there. If the setting tool they gave you deforms the outside of the snap, I think maybe they sent you one that is too big.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

gregday
May 23, 2003

Yep I’ve got the right pieces together and oriented correctly. I’m at a loss. I had my wife sanity check me on making sure I wasn’t missing anything obvious and she gave it a try too, to no better results. I measured the snaps and made sure they are Line 24.

At this point I’m blaming the snaps and just going to try another brand or kind.

I’ve done this before with non brass snaps (zinc maybe? Idk) and had no issues.

cloudy
Jul 3, 2007

Alive to the universe; dead to the world.
Well, good luck! As an individual I always buy things from buckleguy.com. They seem to have a lot of options that are well categorized with lots of info to tell if you're getting the right size, etc.

HolHorsejob
Mar 14, 2020

Portrait of Cheems II of Spain by Jabona Neftman, olo pint on fird
How thick is the leather? Snaps, rivets, and other two-piece leather hardware are made for a specific thickness range they can hold to (in rivets, it's determined by the length of the post on one side). Too thick a leather, and the two halves don't overlap enough. Too thin, and there might not be enough material for the hardware to hold onto.

Failing that, I might try a single, well-centered strike with a sturdy mallet. I try my best to get them with one and a half strikes (a slight tap to line up the shot, then one firm strike to set). I try to use my anvil on a scrap of marble slab (or failing that, a concrete floor).

gregday
May 23, 2003

HolHorsejob posted:

How thick is the leather? Snaps, rivets, and other two-piece leather hardware are made for a specific thickness range they can hold to (in rivets, it's determined by the length of the post on one side). Too thick a leather, and the two halves don't overlap enough. Too thin, and there might not be enough material for the hardware to hold onto.

Failing that, I might try a single, well-centered strike with a sturdy mallet. I try my best to get them with one and a half strikes (a slight tap to line up the shot, then one firm strike to set). I try to use my anvil on a scrap of marble slab (or failing that, a concrete floor).

Leather is about 1mm thick. But also I tried on felt.

I’ve ordered some different snaps and a hand press from Buckleguy.

Ziggy Smalls
May 24, 2008

If pain's what you
want in a man,
Pain I can do

gregday posted:

Leather is about 1mm thick. But also I tried on felt.

I’ve ordered some different snaps and a hand press from Buckleguy.

1mm thick material with 5/16" posts. Have you tried anything closer to 3/16" or thicker? Those posts could just be way too long for your project.

gregday
May 23, 2003

Ziggy Smalls posted:

1mm thick material with 5/16" posts. Have you tried anything closer to 3/16" or thicker? Those posts could just be way too long for your project.

Ding ding ding, I think this was the issue. That's why my posts started to roll but then wouldn't go any further. I switched to some shorter posts and had no trouble at all, got them set in 2-3 hammer taps. Thanks!

cloudy
Jul 3, 2007

Alive to the universe; dead to the world.
What's everyone's favorite online retailers for fabric? I am having a really hard time finding anything I like... Specifically I guess I am looking for linen or rayon/linen. But I guess I'm just more interested in hearing about peoples favorite places to look for fabric in general!

Also, shot in the dark, but if you're in/around Chicago, favorite physical stores for fabric?

effika
Jun 19, 2005
Birds do not want you to know any more than you already do.

cloudy posted:

What's everyone's favorite online retailers for fabric? I am having a really hard time finding anything I like... Specifically I guess I am looking for linen or rayon/linen. But I guess I'm just more interested in hearing about peoples favorite places to look for fabric in general!

Also, shot in the dark, but if you're in/around Chicago, favorite physical stores for fabric?

For fashion fabric:

Mood Fabric (Big variety, but they remove the brand info from most of their stock and I often find the same fabric on Fabric.com for cheaper with the manufacturer info left intact)

Fabric.com (Amazon, for good or for ill)


EmmaOneSock (I you want quality linen, she's got nice linens and blends! I'm almost finished with a skirt and blouse out of linen from her, actually. It's been fantastic to work with.)

Those three sources are very good about listing fabric content, width, and GSM. I've made a rule for myself that if I don't have those three, I don't waste my money on it. They also do swatches.

I haven't bought from here, but a lot of PatternReview people have and seem to like this store for linen and blends in many colors and weights:

Fabrics Store

cloudy
Jul 3, 2007

Alive to the universe; dead to the world.
Thank you Effika! I ended up going with something on fabric.com... I wanted to avoid it, but in the end they had stuff that was cheap and liked by me and the person I am making the dress for. I felt dirty ordering it though.

That emmaonesock store has a LOT of really cool stuff! Thank you for that!

Crocobile
Dec 2, 2006

cloudy posted:

What's everyone's favorite online retailers for fabric? I am having a really hard time finding anything I like... Specifically I guess I am looking for linen or rayon/linen. But I guess I'm just more interested in hearing about peoples favorite places to look for fabric in general!

Also, shot in the dark, but if you're in/around Chicago, favorite physical stores for fabric?

Stone Mountain & Daughters has really nice apparel-weight linens and stuff. Unfortunately pretty pricey.
https://stonemountainfabric.com

Harts Fabric also has nice linen and tencel/viscose/rayon. A little cheaper than Stone Mountain but still not cheap.
https://hartsfabric.com

If you ever visit Los Angeles, Carmel Fabric in the fabric district is amazing and they specialize in silk and linen. I’ve gotten the nicest silk charmeuse there for $9/yard, it’s nuts. I want to go back and stock up before they retire!!

NotNut
Feb 4, 2020
Is it possible to shorten shoelaces by cutting them and getting the new ends into the uh... things at the end of shoelaces

effika
Jun 19, 2005
Birds do not want you to know any more than you already do.

NotNut posted:

Is it possible to shorten shoelaces by cutting them and getting the new ends into the uh... things at the end of shoelaces

Absolutely! They're called aglets. You can get them from specialty lace or sewing supply stores, or even Amazon. They range in quality from clear cheap heat-shrink tubing to crimped metal in a variety of finishes.

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




Apply lighter to shoelace
Lick fingers
Roll end of shoelace between fingers

note: this only works on nylon laces, so like, 90% of the time
Also don't huff the fumes

Paul MaudDib
May 3, 2006

TEAM NVIDIA:
FORUM POLICE
what's the buy-once cry-once recommendation for an industrial sewing machine for doing nylon webbing, heavy cordura "pouch" style fabric, leather, etc?

I honestly don't know the first thing about either sewing (did a bit in middle school) or leatherworking, but it's something that's come up repeatedly in my hunting/camping/shooting/etc hobbies, "I wish they made X", and for a number of years I've idly tossed around the idea of learning how so that I can make exactly what I want. Kinda just trying to price out what something reasonable would cost.

Any recommendations for something around, say, the $2k mark? I have been poking around leatherworker.net but there's a lot to take in, I did see a recommendation for Toledo Industrial's Cowboy CB3200 series from Wizcraft? Something with current-production spare parts would be nice if possible.

edit: he wrote an article discussing that

Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 23:03 on Jun 8, 2022

effika
Jun 19, 2005
Birds do not want you to know any more than you already do.

Paul MaudDib posted:

what's the buy-once cry-once recommendation for an industrial sewing machine for doing nylon webbing, heavy cordura "pouch" style fabric, leather, etc?

I honestly don't know the first thing about either sewing (did a bit in middle school) or leatherworking, but it's something that's come up repeatedly in my hunting/camping/shooting/etc hobbies, "I wish they made X", and for a number of years I've idly tossed around the idea of learning how so that I can make exactly what I want. Kinda just trying to price out what something reasonable would cost.

Any recommendations for something around, say, the $2k mark? I have been poking around leatherworker.net but there's a lot to take in, I did see a recommendation for Toledo Industrial's Cowboy CB3200 series from Wizcraft? Something with current-production spare parts would be nice if possible.

edit: he wrote an article discussing that

I was going to recommend finding a used Juki industrial like the TDC 441 or one of the clones, and that artical discusses the clones! Sounds like a good plan to pick one up.

cloudy
Jul 3, 2007

Alive to the universe; dead to the world.

effika posted:

I was going to recommend finding a used Juki industrial like the TDC 441 or one of the clones, and that artical discusses the clones! Sounds like a good plan to pick one up.

Same!

If you can find a local sewing machine repair shop/refurbisher/seller, you could just have a chat with them and see what used machines they have in stock. Might find something in your price range without having to do crazy shipping.

DominoKitten
Aug 7, 2012

Sailrites are in that range:

https://www.sailrite.com/Sewing-Machines

Lead out in cuffs
Sep 18, 2012

"That's right. We've evolved."

"I can see that. Cool mutations."




cloudy posted:

Thank you Effika! I ended up going with something on fabric.com... I wanted to avoid it, but in the end they had stuff that was cheap and liked by me and the person I am making the dress for. I felt dirty ordering it though.

That emmaonesock store has a LOT of really cool stuff! Thank you for that!

Also just a reminder that Spoonflower exists. They will print basically anything* on a wide range of fabrics, and there are a ton of other people's designs already there. If you really can't find anything that inspires you, you could always make your own.


*Probably not goatse

Bacon Terrorist
May 7, 2010

to ride eternal, shiny and chrome

THUNDERDOME LOSER 2022
Hello, I have read the OP on behalf of my wife who is getting back into sewing after watching the Great British Sewing Bee. She wants to find a pattern for a short sleeve shirt to fit me (a giant goon, 6'9" and wearing UK XXXL) but is finding it hard to source a pattern that accomodates a man of my dimensions. Is she better off finding a cheap shirt that fits me and unpicking it to copy the pattern?

learnincurve
May 15, 2014

Smoosh

Bacon Terrorist posted:

Hello, I have read the OP on behalf of my wife who is getting back into sewing after watching the Great British Sewing Bee. She wants to find a pattern for a short sleeve shirt to fit me (a giant goon, 6'9" and wearing UK XXXL) but is finding it hard to source a pattern that accomodates a man of my dimensions. Is she better off finding a cheap shirt that fits me and unpicking it to copy the pattern?

If you are in the UK then yes unpick because our patterns are mostly made in France in a medium and then lazily made bigger or smaller getting worse as they go. The neck is going to be hard without a pattern and instructions so what I would do is get the largest not-mcalls mens shirt pattern she can and use it and the instructions as a guide.

effika
Jun 19, 2005
Birds do not want you to know any more than you already do.
Check out 5 out of 4 patterns! Here's their men's t-shirt. They have other options (henley, raglan, hoodies, etc) for men as well and try to be size-inclusive. Your wife still might need to do some height adjustments, but that is going to be par for the course for nearly any pattern for your height!

If those don't work, she may consider the Glad Press 'N Seal method to copy a garment. No need to unpick seams! I've done it with some pajama pants I loved and it worked incredibly well.

Bacon Terrorist
May 7, 2010

to ride eternal, shiny and chrome

THUNDERDOME LOSER 2022
Thank you both for the advice, will report back when we have results!

Pasketti
Nov 8, 2017

lick lick lick


I made a stretchy baby seal skater skirt!
My first time making an entire piece of clothing in about a decade!
EXCUSE THE WEIRD PICS. I don't have a full body mirror so the only choice is for me to go goblin mode and stand on the edge of my bathtub or sink.

I'm always hand sewing to repair and alter clothes I buy (4'11 height + flat chest + tiny shoulders = shortening a lot of straps), but this is my first time busting out a sewing machine in ages.
The fabric was a random half yard that I found in a closet at work, and nobody knew where it came from so I yoinked it. I recently got 2 yards of animal crossing fabric at JoAnnes to make a skirt or dress, but I was afraid of messing up on the nice new fabric while I re-learned machine sewing and using patterns, so I used the mystery seal fabric as practice.
I love the result but it was kinda a nightmare because I was rusty as heck, never used the machine I was borrowing before, first time using a stretchy fabric, AND I barely had enough fabric to work with. I didn't have enough to make a waistband so I just cut one off of an old pair of tennis shorts and hand-switched whatever leftover scraps of the seal fabric I had to cover the elastic. That part is def. a nightmare, but I was able to hide the wild random stitches well.

I'm planning to do more of a circle pattern with a zipper and possibly pockets on the animal crossing skirt. I love the skater skirt pattern I used here but it's def meant for stretchy ONLY.
I'd love to do make it as a cute dress but I'm worried that cheap JoAnne's novelty cotton won't be the most comfortable thing for the top portion.

Pasketti fucked around with this message at 20:38 on Jul 15, 2022

taiyoko
Jan 10, 2008


Pasketti posted:

-snip-

I'm planning to do more of a circle pattern with a zipper and possibly pockets on the animal crossing skirt. I love the skater skirt pattern I used here but it's def meant for stretchy ONLY.
I'd love to do make it as a cute dress but I'm worried that cheap JoAnne's novelty cotton won't be the most comfortable thing for the top portion.

It looks great! What pattern did you use?

Pasketti
Nov 8, 2017

lick lick lick
Thank you!

I used this pattern from Etsy:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/1157341627/skater-skirt-sewing-pattern-xs-xl?ref=notif_psffl

Dori
Jan 14, 2005
Abducted by sheep
I have an overlocker question that I am hoping someone can help with.

A friend of mine has an almost unused, all original parts and packaging included, 1987 Singer 14U52A overlocker which he wants to sell.
I have always been keen to get an overlocker so an opportunity for a secondhand one appeals. Not sure though if it makes sense to go with such an old model or if I'd be better off looking out for a more modern machine given I have zero experience using one. I do have quite a lot of other sewing experience, mostly costume making rather than "everyday clothes" and alterations etc.

Any thoughts on the quality, ease of use and functionality of an older machine vs a modern one would be much appreciated.
Also any advice on what you'd pay for a machine like this versus a current new one would be good (so I can convert the difference into "things in New Zealand cost a fortune" dollars).

Lead out in cuffs
Sep 18, 2012

"That's right. We've evolved."

"I can see that. Cool mutations."




Both overlockers I've owned have been from the 80s, but they were by slightly better brands (Bernina and Janome).

Overlockers haven't changed much since then in terms of features, so there's no intrinsic reason not to get one from that era. The main thing to look for is whether the gearing is made of metal or nylon. My Janome definitely has metal gears, so I trust that it'll still last. Singers from the 80s may not. That said, if it's barely-used, the worst thing is that you run it into the ground in a few years and need to get a better one?

But yeah, it'll definitely be equivalent to a modern Singer machine, only cheaper because it's used.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
Hi sewing thread I just wanted to stop by and share my first sewing project which is also an upholstery and woodworking project. I am building a couch! I just finished the second of three sections. All from scratch with no plans other than what I drew and white boarded. Depth of the seat is that of a twin and high of the back is 22", and one portion will pull out to be a queen size bed.

Current state in place.



The last section has the pull out and will be complicated, and I know I'm short on material to cover the base so it'll be a bit delayed.

DominoKitten
Aug 7, 2012

Dang that is very classy looking!

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effika
Jun 19, 2005
Birds do not want you to know any more than you already do.

StormDrain posted:

Hi sewing thread I just wanted to stop by and share my first sewing project which is also an upholstery and woodworking project. I am building a couch! I just finished the second of three sections. All from scratch with no plans other than what I drew and white boarded. Depth of the seat is that of a twin and high of the back is 22", and one portion will pull out to be a queen size bed.

Current state in place.



The last section has the pull out and will be complicated, and I know I'm short on material to cover the base so it'll be a bit delayed.

That's a huge project! Looks great so far.

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