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tildes posted:Thank you, this was helpful! I think I will try and integrate a bit more of this conscious structure in. Adding the hard problem repeat makes a ton of sense too- I do worry only doing stuff once and never again makes me not internalize what I learned. It's also surprisingly fun. It's annoying to unsend something, but the more you do it the less you care and the better you get at doing the problems. You learn sooo much from repeating hard stuff too. I usually pick one of the hardest problem I managed to do in the past few weeks and give myself 3 tries or so to get it again. Another similar thing is to do a problem (not quite as hard though) 3-5 times until you get it as perfect as you possibly can. This also teaches you a lot. That V-sort-of-hard problem can become so ridiculously easy once you just know exactly how to do it. Also gets you to try weird/fun beta that don't always work but sometime just make the problem wayyyy easier. KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 23:40 on Apr 5, 2022 |
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Apr 5, 2022 23:33
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KingColliwog posted:It's also surprisingly fun. It's annoying to unsend something, but the more you do it the less you care and the better you get at doing the problems. You learn sooo much from repeating hard stuff too. I usually pick one of the hardest problem I managed to do in the past few weeks and give myself 3 tries or so to get it again. 100% agree with this. Dialing in a route that (to begin with) is at the edge of your abilities can make it flow a lot better and is worthwhile. It starts out with just figuring out the sequence that works best for you, but there's more refinement that can be made after that as well. Seemingly subtle things like where exactly you hit a given hold or the angle of a foot placement can make a big difference in how smoothly it goes.
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Apr 5, 2022 23:55
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armorer posted:You can still escape the belay in this situation using the standard process - I guess I should have said I have zero interest in ever having to do that whole process.
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Apr 6, 2022 01:01
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Monday at the gym someone gave me the tip of doing a fist jam to solve a problem. It's almost certainly a good way to approach the problem but for some reason my brain goes into panic mode anytime I try and do it. My shoulder was in no pain, but it felt like it was gonna be and I bailed every time. I guess Ill give it another go today. Im also coming back to climbing after a pretty long hiatus. I was climbing a bit with my buddys back in college but stopped when they moved. A bunch of years later Im back because the regular gym is so boring. I'm only bouldering at V2 level right now, and really trying to push myself to get better at footwork.
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Apr 6, 2022 15:55
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Bread Set Jettison posted:Monday at the gym someone gave me the tip of doing a fist jam to solve a problem. It's almost certainly a good way to approach the problem but for some reason my brain goes into panic mode anytime I try and do it. My shoulder was in no pain, but it felt like it was gonna be and I bailed every time. I guess Ill give it another go today. Jams can feel kinda scary at first, I know what you mean. Just remember that your shoulder does not rip out when you hang from a pull up bar on one arm. If there is a place you can practice a jam with decent footholds, and slowly lean away from the wall until you feel how well supported you are by that one hand, that might help too.
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Apr 6, 2022 17:51
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My problem with fist jams is that every time I've tried it makes my hand really hurt and I can't keep it clenched enough to keep the jam going, this is a major enough problem for me that I feel like I'm probably doing it wrong somehow or just trying it in places where it doesn't work, but since I moved I haven't really got any regular climbing buddies who're experienced enough to help with technique.
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Apr 6, 2022 17:58
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I have a sport lead climbing question! Something I've done a million times but have been second guessing lately. So I was always taught that you clip a quickdraw into the bolt such that the spine of the carabiner is facing the direction the climb goes. Like if the next bolt is sorta to the right, you face the gate left. The idea being that if you fall, it reduces the chance the rope would clip back through the gate. Even the instruction guide thing that comes with a quickdraw has a diagram that says this.  If the climb goes straight up, I guess it sorta doesn't matter. I've also known a couple of more experienced climbers who say that sometimes this is sort of a crapshoot and is maybe not mega important and not to overthink it. Regardless I try to pay attention and do the best I can to face the gate the opposite way of which way the climb seems to go. Now later on in the climb when a bunch of clips are in and there is some rope drag, often it will pull the quickdraws sort of horizontal. I have noticed that many times, if I clipped with the gate facing away from the next bolt as instructed, when this quickdraw gets pulled horizontal, its gate is now facing away from the wall, like so:  Which seems more likely than ever that in a fall, the rope could pass back through the gate. I feel like I'd rather have the gate facing in toward the rock. So what gives? Am I wrong to think the gates facing out is a big deal? Am I overthinking it? Am I doing it wrong? I do sometimes use alpine draws to reduce drag when there is a big lateral distance in bolts, but I find this happens even when there is barely any rope drag - it doesn't take much. And yes this occurs even when my belayer is giving ample slack.
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Apr 6, 2022 18:08
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alnilam posted:Now later on in the climb when a bunch of clips are in and there is some rope drag, often it will pull the quickdraws sort of horizontal. I have noticed that many times, if I clipped with the gate facing away from the next bolt as instructed, when this quickdraw gets pulled horizontal, its gate is now facing away from the wall, like so: The rope will pull against the BACK of the gate and not pass through it (unless you're backclipped). My understanding is that clipping the OTHER direction has more of a chance of pushing the gate against a bulge in the rock and an open biner has its strength significantly reduced.
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Apr 6, 2022 19:06
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Even if your quickdraw somehow ended up stuck in that horizontal position (as in your second mspaint) during a fall, which is unlikely given that gravity and the movement of the rope would generally pull it back to vertical before it really catches you, the worst case would be that the carabiner would be loaded on the gate with the force directed outward. That's not ideal, but it's not hazardous with the forces generated by a lead fall. It's not going to create that "rope presses in on the gate" action that you're trying to avoid. e: f,b Baronash fucked around with this message at 19:16 on Apr 6, 2022 |
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Apr 6, 2022 19:11
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alnilam posted:I have a sport lead climbing question! Something I've done a million times but have been second guessing lately. The top QuickDraw is the one that matters the most and it can't be pulled horizontally as shown in the picture. You want the gate facing the opposite of your travel above the draw so that the rope doesn't swing into the gate if you fall as you mentioned. For the draws below the top draw that are pulled horizontally, I haven't seen any research but it is likely better for the gate to be facing outward so that if the carabineer hits the wall the gate isn't pushed open by protrusions though to my knowledge this issue is outweighed by the above issue. It seems extremely unlikely that the rope hits the gate if it's facing outward as that requires the rope to be inline with the draw while it's under tension.
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Apr 7, 2022 00:06
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1) Janja is insane 2) M2 was a loving wack problem and I say this as somebody who likes seeing cracks in IFSC. -- If you don't care to see, basically the starting move was a dyno into a textureless hand jam 3) I strained something in my knee with a heel hook (super glad it didn't tear) somehow and my physiotherapist told me not to climb for at least a month 
bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m fucked around with this message at 03:24 on Apr 13, 2022 |
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Apr 13, 2022 03:21
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I have like the mildest ankle sprain in the world tho unsure why - its more likely to get sprained since it got really badly hosed up a few years ago, so I guess I wasnt careful enough at some point. I guess Ill be RICEing/checking in with my physical therapist again. Previously I was doing calf raises/spelling the alphabet with my ankle/a resistance band per PT recommendation. Wondering if anyone else has had particular luck with some other approach to helping strengthen a lovely ankle? E; rip us with the back to back injury posts
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Apr 13, 2022 03:50
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The only additional thing i had a PT tell me once was balance practice, like balance on the bad foot for 30s at a time, maybe with minimal help from a hand on the wall. Good way of restrengthening the ankle's stabilization.
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Apr 13, 2022 04:07
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When I tore up my ankle last year (3 or 4 ligaments tore 3/4 of the way through or something insane like that, it's basically a miracle I didn't snap one completely) I started with the calf raise thing + mobility stuff, then added in standing on the hosed up foot, then added in the same on a soft surface like a yoga mat for added instability and added in the "star drill" where you stand on the one foot and bend down a bit to touch your other foot to the ground in front, behind, and to your side. I found a physiotherapy for climbers website thing that basically went through the same steps my physio had me do, but I can't find it anymore
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Apr 13, 2022 15:44
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Gonna stop being fat and sad and will use the fingerboard I installed while being hurt last year, starting today, and some day I will send V2 outside lol
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Apr 13, 2022 15:52
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I've barely climbed since COVID. I went to the gym and did an hour of bouldering on Monday. It's a good thing I don't care about any of the gymbros judging me as I muscle my way up a V1!
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Apr 13, 2022 16:10
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After a few weeks back to climbing lead after a long break of lockdown and 95% bouldering I finally got my headgame back on track. Lead a hard to me route and took a few real actual falls which I hadn't done on lead in a long time! Sure they were not big ones but felt completely comfortable taking them which was amazing. Also outdoor season just begun around here and went bouldering outdoor yesterday. This is such a good week!
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Apr 20, 2022 03:36
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Looks like Canada no longer requires a test before entry, so I'm hoping to get back to my crag soon. But it's been an incredibly wet Spring, so I think it would not be a good time if I went this weekend.
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Apr 20, 2022 03:44
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My index finger has been busted for the past couple of months. I can't bend/close it all the way, like when making a fist. There's some pain in my PIP joint when I try, and my fingertip gets to within half an inch of my upper palm but I can't get it to touch it. Anyone familiar with that? When I first noticed it, I decided to see if I could climb through it, but it hasn't been healing. So I've decreased my climbing frequency from five times a week to just two times a week, and stopped bouldering altogether. I'm hoping it's nothing permanent!
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Apr 20, 2022 04:16
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Slow News Day posted:My index finger has been busted for the past couple of months. I can't bend/close it all the way, like when making a fist. There's some pain in my PIP joint when I try, and my fingertip gets to within half an inch of my upper palm but I can't get it to touch it. Go see someone if it's at all possible. The longer you wait the harder it can become to fully heal! A good PT that knows climbing should at least get you a good diagnostic and you could follow a rehab protocol you'd find online if money is the issue. KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 04:26 on Apr 20, 2022 |
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Apr 20, 2022 04:18
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KingColliwog posted:Go see someone if it's at all possible. The longer you wait the harder it can become to fully heal! A good PT that knows climbing should at least get you a good diagnostic and you could follow a rehab protocol you'd find online if money is the issue. I won't be able to until around mid-May unfortunately...
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Apr 20, 2022 04:27
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My physical therapist wasn't able to fully fix my finger pains unfortunately. As soon as I started to tell him about it, he was like "I think this is too specialized for our staff's knowledge" which is what I expected when I scheduled the appointment. He had some exercise ideas, and they did help, but it's definitely not 100% better and I only climbed like once a month until this month -- and even then I've been going very slowly so as not to re-injure myself. Can't really offer any advice, just sympathize I had fairly limited ROM in my ring finger, couldn't touch my tip to my palm. And the days after I'd climb I'd wake up and my hand was painfully stiff. It's better now but still hurts to flex that finger.
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Apr 20, 2022 04:41
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The odd part is I have no loss of strength whatsoever, it's just the pain combined with limited range of motion while at rest make me hesitant to go too hard on it because I don't want to make it worse. That hesitation has loving killed my performance though. Oh well. I'm going on vacation for a couple of weeks anyway, so I'll hope for the best.
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Apr 20, 2022 04:46
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That's how mine was. It didn't really impede my climbing, but after every session I felt like I was 50 years older. But I knew if I kept climbing then I'd do some real damage.
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Apr 20, 2022 04:50
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Its a little dated, but this is a decent protocol (not having diagnosed your particular injury) https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/stories/experience-story-esther-smith-nagging-finger-injuries/
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Apr 20, 2022 06:47
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Slow News Day posted:The odd part is I have no loss of strength whatsoever, it's just the pain combined with limited range of motion while at rest make me hesitant to go too hard on it because I don't want to make it worse. That hesitation has loving killed my performance though. Most injuries will need regular progressive loading to improve. Do you have a hangboard? Have you tried hangboarding regularly at a low intensity? Most protocol will involve that and the slowly ramping up the weight Sab669 posted:My physical therapist wasn't able to fully fix my finger pains unfortunately. As soon as I started to tell him about it, he was like "I think this is too specialized for our staff's knowledge" which is what I expected when I scheduled the appointment. That sucks I feel lucky to have multiple physical therapists who are climbers themselves in my area. There's also a lot of great info online, but I'm always hesitant to self diagnose. I'd probably try an online consult if I didn't have access to a PT that knew climbing. They could get you to do most tests and diagnose you remotely in most cases I'm sure.
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Apr 20, 2022 11:32
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On the topic of injuries if anyone has recommendations for a wrist sprain lmk! Was climbing a slab, sent a little too hard, and smacked my wrist on the ground instead of the pad... Exciting to get a less popular climbing injury though.
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Apr 21, 2022 01:25
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RIP ZEEZ
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Are there any Salt Lake City goons ITT? I'm Gonna fly in next month for a long weekend to watch one of the bouldering world cups.
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Apr 22, 2022 19:37
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Sab669 posted:Looks like Canada no longer requires a test before entry, so I'm hoping to get back to my crag soon. But it's been an incredibly wet Spring, so I think it would not be a good time if I went this weekend. Where in Canada?
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Apr 24, 2022 00:09
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I'm on the east coast, so Niagara Glen
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Apr 24, 2022 00:11
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foutre posted:On the topic of injuries if anyone has recommendations for a wrist sprain lmk! Was climbing a slab, sent a little too hard, and smacked my wrist on the ground instead of the pad... Lots of compression, but an elastic bandage style not a gauntlet - those tend to be too tight for sprains in my experience for the most part. Before you start going again, wait until it feels good and then give it a few more days, Wrist sprains are incredibly easy to go from a minor inconvenience to putting you out of the game for a solid chunk of time because you hopped in too soon. Welcome to Slabs, literally just a wall of injuries. A sprain is probably the best case scenario 
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Apr 24, 2022 08:46
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Hello climbing thread! I am a chunky guy (59 300 lbs) but I got into indoor climbing last year in the summer and fall. It was great, but too taxing on me at the time since I also lift weights. Fast forward to this year and some additional grip training and a hell of a lot more weightlifting and I still weigh mostly the same but I was able to complete most of the indoor bouldering routes that I attempted. I even got to try auto-belay and top rope with a buddy recently too, which helped with the fear of falling onto the mats. Im currently struggling a bit with being able to fit climbing into my training schedule, since I lift heavy things 4 days out of the week and also do other active cardio-ey type stuff (lots of walking, some hiking, paddle boarding, and cycling). Im really worried about potential injury that could stop me from doing all of those things, so Im trying to figure out what an agreeable climbing schedule would be like. Are there any useful resources to learn more about cross-training and working climbing into a larger athletic program? I really enjoyed the last time I went! https://www.instagram.com/p/Ccd3Q1yupfW/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y= I did all the yellow problems in the pictures and then completed that red one, with a video at the end showing it! The folks I went climbing with were visiting from out of town and super good at climbing, so it was good to get tips from them too.
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Apr 25, 2022 14:57
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There's no hard and fast rule to cross training AFAIK. If you get really good at 1 discipline, doing other stuff will compete with your performance level, but for most people that's not a big problem. Climbing is very specific in it's requirement (finger strength) that you will not build doing other sports. The good part is that you will not overtrain your grip even if you alternate your various activities, the bad part is that it won't progress really fast if you only climb 1x a week or so. Still plenty of fun to be had though! Overall, just make sure you get actual rest days and listen to your body. Do all the sports, be active and enjoy it! But when you feel like "that might be too much, my "x body part" doesn't feel right" that means you stop so you don't hurt yourself.
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Apr 25, 2022 18:06
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If the last climbing session was any indicator after almost a full week of lifting and travel, Im able to more readily identify my limits and safely bail off of a problem Im working and still have enough gas in the tank to go out for a long walk afterwards. Right now I think its more a matter of foot positioning so I can more or less stand upwards instead of trying to stretch my upper body to grab the next hold. Energy management is definitely something I am sorting out as well while on the wall to avoid burning out all the energy in smaller muscle groups. I suspect that realistically Ill just be doing problems mostly for recreation instead of training for competitive until I end up with enough gear, experience, and determination to work on outdoor problems.
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Apr 25, 2022 19:18
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Sakara123 posted:Before you start going again, wait until it feels good and then give it a few more days, Wrist sprains are incredibly easy to go from a minor inconvenience to putting you out of the game for a solid chunk of time because you hopped in too soon. Yeah I think I'm going to take five on slabs. Honestly a very well timed post, I just had my first "ah this doesn't hurt too much" day recently and this is a good reminder that I should still wait a while longer. Given how rough it's been to take like 3 weeks off definitely worth making sure it goes away for good.
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Apr 25, 2022 20:46
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TIL on a Kilter board I am like a v1-2 climber tops- I feel like Im just used to better holds on that level of incline? Or every gym Ive been to has been seriously sandbagged or both. It did feel helpful though, going to try it more often but maybe on lower incline to start.
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Apr 26, 2022 03:28
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Boards have their own style of setting, youll figure it out if you stick with it for a couple of months.
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Apr 26, 2022 03:52
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tildes posted:TIL on a Kilter board I am like a v1-2 climber tops- I feel like Im just used to better holds on that level of incline? Or every gym Ive been to has been seriously sandbagged or both. It did feel helpful though, going to try it more often but maybe on lower incline to start. Almost all of the Moonboard benchmarks were near impossible when I started but after a couple of sessions it started to click. It's just a different style that you'll need to get used to.
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Apr 26, 2022 04:52
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I'll just echo what the other people have said. I rarely climb on the kilter board, but in very few sessions I went from "lol wtf is this v2, ain't no way I get up that thing" to "ok I think I'll flash this V4" and doing "boulder on the minute" with V3s. I think I'd get to easily do V5s (which is my outdoor grade) if I dedicated just a bit of time to it. It's just a different style of climbing.
KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 13:36 on Apr 26, 2022 |
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Apr 26, 2022 13:33
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Im really excited for my gyms expansion to finish both for the new roped climbing walls and especially the Kilter board. My first gym had a Moonboard, and the Kilter just seems like a major improvement on the concept. Do your gyms make it possible to adjust the angle?
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Apr 26, 2022 13:42
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