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SpartanIvy posted:Well after I paid so much for the sink I thought it prudent to spend a lot of money to finish securing it. For that pun, you should only be shot 
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Apr 16, 2022 14:42
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Well, after some googling I now know what kreg pocket jigs and simpson strong ties are. Should be fun. Thanks!
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Apr 16, 2022 19:12
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Bonus overkill points for using what looks like PT lumber for blocking behind drywall, inside a house.
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Apr 17, 2022 02:26
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I have a sharkbite tee that is leaking and it looks like one of the retention "clips" is broken off. Is there anything I should be aware of in terms of replacing it?
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Apr 17, 2022 12:38
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I know nothing about plumbing. Got a shower that drips from the showerhead. Since it's coming from the actual showerhead and not from any of the joints I assume it's the valve, getting the sleeve off I see this:   I'm not sure if what I'm looking at is the valve, or if the valve is inside the wall between the handles and I'll have to cut my way in. e: Inside the wall from underneath, that thing in the center is what I'm afraid I'll have to get at. 
uPen fucked around with this message at 18:53 on Apr 18, 2022 |
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Apr 18, 2022 18:44
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Okay, new plumbing question: I've installed my new shower/tub valve as instructed, but now it's time to mount the copper pipe for the tub spout, and I'm really scratching my head to figure out the 'correct' way to do this. Basically, I need to figure out how to long to make the horizontal portion of the pipe:  (For reference, if I used the above measurement guides, Y = 2 1/16", and X would be 3 5/8", for a total of 5 11/16", plus the quarter inch for 5 15/16") As shown above, the instructions that came with the new hardware suggests just installing a threaded pipe a certain length. This has the disadvantage of, the next guy that goes to change the shower hardware will have to either cut the copper pipe sticking out of the wall and put on a new length to their liking, or remove the tile to get to the elbow. My understanding, based on talking to other DIYers, is that the other option is to have the elbow have a threaded connection, and then you use a threaded nipple that come in 1/2" lengths to get the correct length to your tub spout. However, this relies on the length coming out to roughly a 1/2" measurement. Too long or too short, and you're going to run into problems. So do I: - Just sweat on a threaded copper pipe to the elbow, as shown, and say 'gently caress the next guy'. May be a little tricky, because I haven't put up the new tile yet, and so I don't have an exact measurement for how thick the wall will be, just an estimate. - Mount a threaded elbow, use a pre-made threaded nipple, and pray that everything works without leaks at the correct length. - Make my own threaded nipple with copper pipe and sweated-on threaded connectors, such that I can use any length I want, and trial-and-error the length after the wall and tile is installed. - Option I saw on DIY forums that seemed a little crazy: Use two threaded nipples connected by a threaded union so that you've got four different threaded connections and thus have more 'play' in exact length - Use a standard elbow, and sweat on a small length of pipe and a threaded female connector, such that the nipple is connected just outside of my wall, and thus easier to change in the future. Use with a pre-made or home-made nipple as required. --- Zarin posted:Have you found something to get yet, or no? While the one I have in my apartment doesn't sound exactly like what you want, it also doesn't have the issue where you have to pass through Cold to get to Hot. Hey, sorry, didn't see this message until now, and ended up just getting a 'normal' faucet. Thank you for the offer, though!
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Apr 23, 2022 21:55
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Bought a nice deep alcove tub and have a 3/4" transfer valve hooked up to it with it plumbed with 3/4" PEX A expansion so I get maximum water flow so it fills up quickly. Problem: I need a tub spout with a diverter (to engage the shower head) that's also 3/4". Bigger Problem: I've gotten my hands on a few such things in the hardware store and while they accept 3/4 plumbing, where the diverter is engaged drops down to what looks like 3/8". . . Totally defeating the purpose of plumbing at 3/4". Anyone know of a tub spout that will allow me to retain full flow with a shower diverter? The other alternative is to add a seperate 3/4" diverter valve which will probably be expensive. Thanks
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Apr 24, 2022 01:02
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uPen posted:I know nothing about plumbing. That chrome part is a cover. Remove it, and (literally) all will be revealed. It may just be screwed on - you should be able to spin it off....but also look for a set screw that may have to be loosened first. Bobulus posted:Okay, new plumbing question: So you don't have tile up yet? just Hardiebacker or Wonderboard? Since most plumbing fixtures are hot garbage: unless you're planning on selling within the next 2-5 years, the next guy will probably be you. So I am assuming that you are comfortable soldering copper pipe. You want to install a nice, beefy, sweated-in female threaded brass (preferably) or copper fitting, 1/2"; 3/4" would be better. Install it as far back into the wall as possible, because if you do what I did & spend $140 for a solid-brass spigot from a plumbing-supply house because the shower-actuating gate valve dissolved on said hot garbage, you may find that the threading commences almost at the wall, not 4" in at the spigot head. Setting a female receiver at the wall means that you can install anything. And set the depth after the wall is done.
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Apr 24, 2022 01:30
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A female brass drop ear with a pipe stub and cap is the way to go. Once the tile is in, remove the stub (they make internal pipe wrenches if you need them), and thread in either a male copper to sweat pipe, or the right length of brass pipe.
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Apr 24, 2022 01:36
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SpartanIvy posted:I assume that's brass, in which case the standard procedure for plumbers is to cold chisel it out. Just rip and tear it all out and try not to drop any bits down into the sewer line. Ok! I got the cap out and didn't drop any down the sewer line! Success! PainterofCrap posted:Sounds more like the drain line is clogged. May be both. Welp now I've snaked this drain out from the basement floor drain that is backing up when the washer empties, and now I've snaked it out as far as my 25ft snake would go from the cleanout in the garage and didn't hit anything at all, and the drain still backs up. 25 feet from the cleanout would get me... probably 3/4 of the way to the road. I dunno, worth getting a longer snake and trying that, or should I start looking at something else?
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Apr 24, 2022 22:35
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Elder Postsman posted:Ok! I got the cap out and didn't drop any down the sewer line! Success!
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Apr 24, 2022 22:46
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I have a hose bib that leaks a bit around the handle. After some research I tried tightening the packing nut, which helped a bit, but didn't fix it completely. I believe I need to replace the packing washer which looks like a simple enough process, but I have no idea how to find what item I need at Lowes Depot. Any links would be appreciated! Pictures for identification: 
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Apr 25, 2022 15:38
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Turn off the water from inside, remove the packing nut/valve stem and bring it to the hardware store/big box store along with picture of the part left on the house and the pics you posted here. It's by far easiest to just match things up in person.
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Apr 25, 2022 15:53
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Taking the pieces to the store is always a good idea, but if you try to pull out the valve packing, you’ll just get a handful of graphite crumbles. This is what usually packs around the handle stem. I got blank stares last time I asked for it at HD. Watch a YouTube to see how tight to pack it. https://www.homedepot.com/p/DANCO-3-32-in-x-36-in-Valve-Packing-80794/203193512
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Apr 25, 2022 16:24
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Motronic posted:In a previous place that had this it wasn't worth it to go full on shocking the well but I did put in a filter just past the pump that I would use to dump a bottle of peroxide in (with the filter out of the canister), run the water until I could smell peroxide at all fixtures, and then let it sit for 20 minutes. When you turn the water back on it spits and sputters and black death comes out (so take off the aerators - they will get clogged). That would resolve it for several months. Shorter time periods the warmer it was outside.
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Apr 25, 2022 16:47
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Arsenic Lupin posted:This came up earlier, but I definitely have a severe case of iron bacteria in the well. Like, when water dries in the bottom of the drainer, it leaves behind a brown stain. I'm going to be setting up an appointment Maybe? I know people who have cured it with the right well treatment. I know people who have gotten the same treatments and it doesn't last because the water coming into their well is being repeatedly re-infected. I don't know that there is any way to be sure even for the well company.
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Apr 25, 2022 17:01
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Tremors posted:I have a hose bib that leaks a bit around the handle. After some research I tried tightening the packing nut, which helped a bit, but didn't fix it completely. I believe I need to replace the packing washer which looks like a simple enough process, but I have no idea how to find what item I need at Lowes Depot. Any links would be appreciated! Pictures for identification: I think Woodford only has so many faucet lines, you could always just buy the 3 or 4 different repair kits and return the ones you don't need. But that looks like a Model 14, as opposed to the 16/17 with the vacuum breaker on top of the assembly. Should be able to pick up the kit at any big box store for $15-20, I know Menards is where I picked up the 17 kit I needed the last time.
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Apr 26, 2022 14:40
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Motronic posted:Maybe? I know people who have cured it with the right well treatment. I know people who have gotten the same treatments and it doesn't last because the water coming into their well is being repeatedly re-infected. I don't know that there is any way to be sure even for the well company. Ah, well, home ownership. In related news, the pipes have been making burpy noises every time we run the washer since we moved in. Son just came upstairs last night to say that the water is actually bubbling up into the bathroom sink. Aiiieeee. Plumber call.
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Apr 27, 2022 18:01
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PitViper posted:I think Woodford only has so many faucet lines, you could always just buy the 3 or 4 different repair kits and return the ones you don't need. But that looks like a Model 14, as opposed to the 16/17 with the vacuum breaker on top of the assembly. Should be able to pick up the kit at any big box store for $15-20, I know Menards is where I picked up the 17 kit I needed the last time. This helped me find the parts kit I needed, thanks! However, when I went to start the replacement I found that the screw that holds the handle onto the stem was completely stuck after presumably decades of service. The slot started shearing and pb blaster didn't help. I picked up a screw extractor kit that will hopefully do the trick. Oh the joys of homeownership.
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Apr 27, 2022 18:04
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Tremors posted:This helped me find the parts kit I needed, thanks! However, when I went to start the replacement I found that the screw that holds the handle onto the stem was completely stuck after presumably decades of service. The slot started shearing and pb blaster didn't help. I picked up a screw extractor kit that will hopefully do the trick. Oh the joys of homeownership. The extractor worked perfectly to retrieve my prize.  ...only to find that the handle had fused to the stem. Time to spend more money at Menards!  Having practically no room to work with behind the packing nut due to the handle situation, I had to methodically pick away at the old packing material with the smallest screwdriver I had. After what felt like an eternity, but was probably only a couple minutes, I pulled the sword from the stone.  Feeling like a veritable king arthur, the replacement process went quick and easy. I now have a non-leaky hose bib! It only took two evenings and three trips to the store.  
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Apr 28, 2022 00:13
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Tremors posted:The extractor worked perfectly to retrieve my prize. Now you know exactly how to do that, so the next thing you have to fix will be completely different and roughly none of the skills will transfer over.
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Apr 28, 2022 01:57
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BonerGhost posted:Now you know exactly how to do that, so the next thing you have to fix will be completely different and roughly none of the skills will transfer over. And you'll break the screw extractor. Which is game over.
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Apr 28, 2022 02:30
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SpartanIvy posted:When it backs up, can you see the water in the cleanout? If you cant then the blockage is after the cleanout in the house somewhere. Can you run your snake the opposite direction in the cleanout? Modern sewer cleanouts have two holes that allow you to auger in both directions, but in ye olden times they only gave you one which usually only allows you to auger towards the street. So it didn't really have a cleanout going going towards the house, but the spot where it was actually draining into the main line was close enough that I could get the snake into it. I didn't feel it hit anything, but I guess that along with pouring a couple kettles full of boiling water down the drain seems to have fixed it - no more water backing up onto the laundry room floor  Appreciate the help from y'all!
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Apr 28, 2022 20:28
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I need some guidance here, because I feel like I'm missing something. My parents bought a new Bosch 500 dishwasher and I installed it for them in their early 1900s home. At the same time, I replumbed the undersink setup to add an AAV in an effort to eliminate the super loud noises the drain would make as it gasped for air. Old setup (that they paid a contractor for, good lord): https://imgur.com/KsmXb7r New setup: https://imgur.com/eD6R13Z The issue that I'm having is that during dishwasher discharge, the sinks actually back up partway up the sink strainers until the drain catches up. The pipe to the stack is 1.5" polypropylene, and the stack is 1.5 sch 40, same as previous. There are 2 22.5 fittings to offset the AAV behind the sink bowls, and a sani-tee connected to the trap arm. The trap arm is pitched appropriately, the picture makes it unclear. The dishwasher inlet is vertically, above the p trap pipe arm, again the picture distorts it a little. Did I do something completely wrong here that I'm just not seeing? Trip report on the Bosch: Nice as rumored. I have an older model and I'm pretty jealous of their sweet 3rd drawer silverware rack.
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May 6, 2022 20:13
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Cross posting here because I forgot there was a plumbing thread:Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I have a plumbing problem. When my washing machine drains, it makes my toilet bubble and do strange things, and the washer overflows out it's little mini-vent stack:
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May 10, 2022 01:16
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Anyone have thoughts or wisdom about sewer line replacement? The original line is mostly roots and spiders. It's got to be trenchless because the line goes under the carport. I'm mostly curious if there's anything I need to know about a blow out or a lining. As I understand it either is purported to last long enough to be someone else's problem. I am adding an external clean out either way.
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May 12, 2022 16:44
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Cross posting here because I forgot there was a plumbing thread: I saw in the plumbing thread and I have no ideas.. you may want to call a plumber because they'll be able to investigate the whole house. That vent seems a little fishy. ti's possible you need your main line cleaned out if everything is bubbling or you're getting a backup then it's probably not your vent.
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May 12, 2022 18:15
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Hey plumbers. Is there a preference for pex crimp style? Crimp ring or clamp? The tool for crimp is significantly less than the clamp. I'm about to replace a my old hose bin and the gate valve is also leaking so I'm debating just going for it and replacing that iron run with some PEX and possibly also plumbing a hot leg for outside too because cleaning my brewing poo poo with a mix would be nice.
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May 15, 2022 21:51
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I just went through this in the thread a few months ago and the consensus seemed to be clamp. I followed this advice and I have to say, as someone who had only used crimp ring before the clamps are really, really nice and easy. The ratcheting clamp too is so much smaller than the crimp tool (so you can actually fit it places), can be operated with one hand and there's no changing dies between sizes. No regrets on spending more on the tool.
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May 15, 2022 22:07
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The crimp (whole thing) tool seems to be less than the clamp (band where you just squeeze the one bit). I mixed the two in my intial post.
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May 15, 2022 23:34
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tater_salad posted:The crimp (whole thing) tool seems to be less than the clamp (band where you just squeeze the one bit). I mixed the two in my intial post. I had to go look up what I bought/the right name on supplyhouse because the naming convention is super dumb. I'm talking about these:  And I have this tool: https://www.supplyhouse.com/Watts-0651060-PEX-Ratchet-Clamp-Tool-w-Holster The clamp tool I've used/borrowed was basically a set of bolt cutters with multiple specialized heads. I didn't check on prices, but I guess I wouldn't be surprised since that one probably comes with a bunch more dies for different sizes. Motronic fucked around with this message at 00:02 on May 16, 2022 |
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May 16, 2022 00:00
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Are water heater anodes more or less standardized? I just realized I’m way over due to check on mine and am willing to bet it’s shot, so I’m just gonna pick a new one up before I flush the tank, but I’m not sure what to get. Tank is a Richmond 6E80-2. I don’t see anything in the manual about specs on the anode.
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May 16, 2022 01:02
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Motronic posted:I had to go look up what I bought/the right name on supplyhouse because the naming convention is super dumb. I'm talking about these: Yeah I agree the naming isn't the best and is easily confusing Clamp: what you showed Crimp is the bolt cutters that wrap around.
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May 16, 2022 01:47
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Motronic posted:I had to go look up what I bought/the right name on supplyhouse because the naming convention is super dumb. I'm talking about these: My neighbor's son, apprenticing to be a plumber. showed up with his company's new Milwaukee cordless power crimper with interchangeable jaws. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-M18-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Short-Throw-Press-Tool-Kit-W-3-PEX-Crimp-Jaws-2674-20C/304067347 Sexy as hell. Heavy bastard, but it sure beats pumping away between a couple 2x10s in a crawlspace.
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May 16, 2022 04:35
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Plumbing: beats pumping away between a couple 2x10s in a crawlspace
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May 16, 2022 05:00
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Any thoughts on un-stucking a water heater anode that's seized in? I can't seem to break it loose with an 18" bar, but I'm reluctant to put an impact driver on it.
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May 19, 2022 21:16
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I had a plumber come out and hydrojet a partial blockage in my kitchen drain pipe from the main clean out. My house is from the 1960s and they kept hemming and hawing about the cast iron pipes and how I’ll need to replace them. I watched them run the camera line, and from my view the pipes were a bit scaled and rusted inside, but they seem fine? Didn’t see roots or have any obvious problems pointed out to me aside from “old bad. Cast iron bad”. They said it’s likely that the line in the kitchen may clog again, which wouldn’t surprise me, but I’ve been here for a year without an issue until now. The clog was in a place that’s hard to reach with a snake, since it was past a tee where the drains from two sinks meet. I don’t pour oils down the drain or anything like that, and who knows how long the clog was accumulating. I’m going to be more careful, stop using the garbage disposal and start using from Zeps enzymes. I’ve read things on the internet saying cast iron pipes have a lifespan of anywhere between 25 to 100 years. I’m sure there’s some truth to the pipes needing replacing at some point, but there’s a big difference for me between now and 20 years from now. The sucky thing is is this house is slab, so any replacement is going to be a huge pain. They talked about cured in place piping but made it seem like they couldn’t do it with my pipes for some reason. Do I have plumbers just trying to FUD me to make some money? The invoice for the work even says “jetted out line and ran camera to expose bad cast iron”, but nothing about what’s defective. I’m half considering just selling my house and walking away because the prospect of pipe replacement seems terribly disruptive and expensive.
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May 20, 2022 00:40
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bi crimes posted:I had a plumber come out and hydrojet a partial blockage in my kitchen drain pipe from the main clean out. My house is from the 1960s and they kept hemming and hawing about the cast iron pipes and how I’ll need to replace them. I watched them run the camera line, and from my view the pipes were a bit scaled and rusted inside, but they seem fine? Didn’t see roots or have any obvious problems pointed out to me aside from “old bad. Cast iron bad”. They said it’s likely that the line in the kitchen may clog again, which wouldn’t surprise me, but I’ve been here for a year without an issue until now. The clog was in a place that’s hard to reach with a snake, since it was past a tee where the drains from two sinks meet. I don’t pour oils down the drain or anything like that, and who knows how long the clog was accumulating. I’m going to be more careful, stop using the garbage disposal and start using from Zeps enzymes. It depends on your risk tolerance. It'll need to get done at some point. You might get 5-10 more years out of them or you might not. I had mine done around 18 months ago. You could crumble the pipes with your bare hands. I had another drain guy come for a second opinion and he leaned towards more "use it until it totally breaks". We had just moved into the house and had the money to do it so I wanted to get it done before we filled the basement up with garbage.
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May 20, 2022 02:24
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Not sure if this is better suited for this thread or the gardening thread. Moved into a new place, and the garden hose is one of those flexible, soft hoses that shrinks down when there's no water in it and expands when you open the tap. Works fine, except whenever you shut off the tap, water sprays all over from the spigot. It seems like the excess water left in the hose has no where else to go, and I'm guessing maybe the spigot has a backflow preventer/vacuum breaker? Happens regardless of whether there's a spray nozzle on or not. Is this going to be a problem with any soft hose + vacuum breaker setup? Or could replacing either of those components potentially fix it?
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May 20, 2022 04:39
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So you say your hose is spraying all over the place right before going soft? 
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May 20, 2022 04:57
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