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I remember hearing them say on some podcast, I think the runout, that it was quite gripping when a truck or bus would go over them and the bridge would shake.
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Jul 21, 2022 18:40
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gohuskies posted:I remember hearing them say on some podcast, I think the runout, that it was quite gripping when a truck or bus would go over them and the bridge would shake. And the crack flexed so it got wider/narrower as a truck went over it
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Jul 21, 2022 18:59
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Perhaps "the same thing for 4 days" is a bit of an understatement. Certainly some unique aspects you won't find on a "regular" climb, and I'm sure the crack isn't 100% perfectly even the whole way, but it's still gonna largely be very very similar the whole way. Like, ostensibly it wasn't widening so significantly that their gear would all just pop out lol. Like are there any other 60 pitch routes in the world that could fairly be described as "basically the same thing/concept the whole fuckin way"? lol
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Jul 21, 2022 19:04
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Sab669 posted:Perhaps "the same thing for 4 days" is a bit of an understatement. Certainly some unique aspects you won't find on a "regular" climb, and I'm sure the crack isn't 100% perfectly even the whole way, but it's still gonna largely be very very similar the whole way. Like, ostensibly it wasn't widening so significantly that their gear would all just pop out lol. Well, when that "same thing" is 5.13 roof crack climbing, that's actually still kind of interesting.
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Jul 21, 2022 20:58
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i loving hate reading or listening to climbers - even smart ones - talk about hangboarding, man quote:Hangboard training can be one of the most effective supplemental training exercises for increasing strength, but it wont make you a better climber and it can be distracting to a detrimental degree, especially for new climbers. It is easy to be seduced by supplemental strength training in general because it is easy to measure and progress is obvious. yeah dude, getting obviously better at stuff is fun and is one of the primary driving factors of people who do athletic pursuits or lift weights or anything really. and yes, improving from hangboarding (so, increasing the amount your fingers can pull) necessarily makes you a better climber like if someone im climbing with is excited enough for the sport that they wanna get into hangboarding or something even at the expense of how often they can climb (or maybe they just installed a hangboard at home) its really not my loving place to tell them they shouldnt be doing it because i think they can become a v3 climber faster if they just climb. and truthfully im not even sure the advice to wait if youre trying to learn to be a very good climber as fast as possible is actually defensible! hypertrophy - especially of your tendons - takes a really long loving time and i think its doubtful that you can stimulate that as quickly with climbing as you can with a good directed hangboarding program. i wish there were rcts for this (but it would take too long) because i suspect if you started someone on a climbing and hangboarding program vs just climbing, with equal amounts of time spent, the former would be a better climber in a year later in the post he says some really good things and he clearly does know what he's talking about but its so frustrating to see even a smart person fall into the same traps that every moron does when they talk about hangboarding and why you cant do it for the first two years or your hands will LITERALLY EXPLODE Verviticus fucked around with this message at 23:15 on Jul 22, 2022 |
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Jul 22, 2022 23:11
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Verviticus posted:i loving hate reading or listening to climbers - even smart ones - talk about hangboarding, man No one is forcing you to do that and rant against this strawman you've set up; you did that all by yourself.
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Jul 23, 2022 01:04
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interrodactyl posted:No one is forcing you to do that and rant against this strawman you've set up; you did that all by yourself. okay
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Jul 23, 2022 01:30
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Eh I dont remember him saying people shouldnt hangboard prior to climbing for two years, but obviously that wouldnt apply to every situation. For 90-95% of climbers thats worth its weight in gold
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Jul 24, 2022 03:33
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This might be too abstract of a question but how is it better to sometimes have fewer fingers on a hold? Every now and then I'll be climbing something and notice I don't have my pinky on and I think to myself I should get all fingers on. I think it usually happens on crimps or slopers but I can't really recall a specific climb at the moment. I noticed it while watching Natalia climbing during the lead comp this weekend at this timestamp: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qTRM_T9tL9I&t=5935s She goes up to that sloper with her full hand, feels around a little, then retracts the pinky.
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Jul 26, 2022 16:21
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It comes down to your hand geometry and the shape of the hold. Some people have fingers that are fairly similar lengths, so they can get their pinky on a sloper without having to curl the other fingers at all. People whose pinky fingers are significantly shorter than their other 3 fingers will tend to drop the pinky to get a better position for the rest of their hand. My pinkies don't reach the last knuckle of my index finger, so I tend to drop them when I'm using an open grip.  The hold shape is obviously important, especially outside where the holds have more detail and variation. Maybe the good spot is only wide enough for three fingers, or maybe there is a sharp edge in the way of your fourth finger. I've run into a few holds that I could use best by dropping my index finger - narrow slots where the smaller fingertips could get deeper into the gap.
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Jul 26, 2022 16:58
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Everything said above is great, and I'll only add that on the specific holds that she's grabbing in that video, you can see the slight depression where she is placing the pads of her three fingers. Her pinkie doesn't seem to be reaching it, so it's not helping her grip that hold.
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Jul 26, 2022 17:07
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Also, sometimes taking a finger off the hold allows you to move the sort of centre of pressure so it's in a straighter line from where you're applying the force down into your arm where the work happens. It can be better to have fingers 2&3 in a two-finger pocket rather than 1&2 for example.
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Jul 30, 2022 20:52
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Does anyone have recommendations for a good beginner hangboarding routine which is maybe 10-15 minutes (though if it has to be longer that's ok, my perception was just that short is usually OK)? I can't climb for maybe a few weeks to a few months, but would like to at least keep some finger strength. Normally I don't hangboard since I've only been climbing for like a year, so I'm not sure what is best to do. I have 30, 20, 15 and 10 (mm?) edges, but i am weak and have big hands so I really only use the first two. I've also got a slightly bigger one I use for pullups.
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Aug 18, 2022 19:45
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this article explains the two most common hangboard protocols - repeaters and max hangs. Either one of those plans on 20mm edges should be fine. 10-15 minutes isn't much time for training - a hangboard session for me usually goes around 45-60 minutes including warming up.
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Aug 18, 2022 20:07
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Me last night (rubbing hands together): ok time to send this problem and finally get to the next grade Me last night moments after falling off the starting hold in pain: oh good my calf tore Felt this weird thud in my leg like someone ran up behind me and punted it, I turned around expecting a kid to be there who just ran into me while not looking where they were going or something Never get old, it sucks poo poo
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Sep 14, 2022 18:36
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Someone at my gym found herself on crutches and needing weeks of PT after just pulling hard on some random heel hook. Did you actually have to go to a doctor? Or just hobbling around for now? Can confirm, getting old is loving dumb. And I'm not even that old yet.
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Sep 14, 2022 19:52
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I have had way more injury scares from big heel pulls than anything else, now I spend a lot of time warming up my legs before climbing and it definitely helps (plus being aware that "I shouldn't just pull as hard as I can here or I might break something").
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Sep 14, 2022 20:27
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I'm fortunate that my gym is only a ~5 mile bike ride. It's a great warmup. I get there, stretch my shoulders, fingers and wrists a little and feel quite good to go. Although once the snow arrives I drive and do like 5 minutes on the elliptical instead.
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Sep 14, 2022 20:30
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bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:Me last night (rubbing hands together): ok time to send this problem and finally get to the next grade I would definitely recommend going to a PT at least once just to get a stretching/recovery routine if youve hurt yourself a bit. This is kind of a half formed shower thought, but I really feel that the harder thing to do is not giving it your full effort, but having self control/taking care to not push yourself too much + do the warmup/support exercises. I feel like its a form of willpower in physical activity which doesnt feel like its emphasized as much as it should be. At least for me it was not that hard to really push myself with eg running to the point where Id give a bunch of effort consistently, but so much more difficult now to limit myself/do all the boring support exercises. Probably doing the former when younger contributes to the need for the latter.
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Sep 14, 2022 20:33
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tildes posted:I would definitely recommend going to a PT at least once just to get a stretching/recovery routine if youve hurt yourself a bit. If not directly contributing, it's at least building the habit of not doing it, which will definitely result in that later. I do agree it's a self control / self discipline thing. I'm terrible at it  "Okay not gonna climb hard poo poo tonight. Just do some laps on the autobelay and some lock off drills" 30 minutes later on my project.... It's easy to do what you want to do, even if that's "technically harder" than the thing you should be doing.
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Sep 14, 2022 22:14
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Two things I have to share: stretching your hamstring actually improves calf engagement, and therefore heel hooking engagement. Building heelhooking/leg/hip flexibility for bouldering: https://youtu.be/3rwc6UPRzRo
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Sep 14, 2022 23:41
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i tore a hamstring doing a pretty strong heel hook a couple years ago. it was a problem where my heel was above my head and it was holding probably like 90% of the total weight my hamstring can pull as i moved laterally to the left and i could basically straight feel it rip as i came off the wall. two weeks of mostly just walking around, two weeks of climbing with very little leg engagement, two weeks of normal climbing with zero hooking, and two weeks of light heel hooks and it was right as rain. cleanest injury i ever had, never bothered me again. A++ injury
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Sep 15, 2022 06:32
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Sab669 posted:Someone at my gym found herself on crutches and needing weeks of PT after just pulling hard on some random heel hook. Buddy, my PCL exploded doing this in the spring quote:Did you actually have to go to a doctor? Or just hobbling around for now? I saw a Dr at a walk-in clinic bout it who said it's just a strain, wait few weeks and if it's not better call your physician to get imaging done. I've got PT from a PT place where I've been told most of the people who work there are climbers later this morning.
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Sep 16, 2022 16:44
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My gym recently set a problem with the crux just being a super brutal heel hook and a big fuckin' throw to a good hold for the finish and I cannot find the power to do it. I've generally been in "Flash almost every V4" territory for a good while now but it's shutting me down and this discussion is makin' me scared to keep trying now Hope the PT helps. I feel like my gym has quite a large community, but my physical therapist and ortho and primary doctor were all "Climbing injury huh?? Haven't seen your lot before" so I dunno how no one else at my gym is getting hurt. Or more likely they just can't afford to see a doctor 
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Sep 16, 2022 18:22
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I feel kind of lucky that I did some powerlifting and judo/bjj before going into climbing. Kinda feels like those big rear end heavy legs I have can't get injured when heel hooking and problems where heel hooks are the challenge tend to be easy. The negative is that I have to carry those disproportionally heavy legs up everything. So I guess my solution for you guys is deadlift multiple times your body weight for reps.
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Sep 16, 2022 23:50
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just don't have legs No weight to carry around and campus everything duh
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Sep 17, 2022 00:24
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Best way to avoid tearing a hamstring for sure.
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Sep 17, 2022 02:17
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RIP ZEEZ
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Heel hooks always freak me out when I really have to pull on them. Lotta respect for people who can, but absolutely not for me.
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Sep 17, 2022 02:41
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I was climbing fairly regularly earlier this year for about 4 months, and then stopped for about 4 months. I'd like to get back to it. I'm climbing about 3 times a week again and I'm feeling the initial soreness that I experienced the first time again, thankfully my technique is still pretty good and I'm finding myself getting back up the difficulty levels fairly easily. One thing I'm finding though is I don't feel a ton of core engagement, maybe because I'm back down to V3ish levels for a problem I consider just enough to break a sweat. I don't know if my abs are still good (because I put on a little bit of flab in the time I took off) or if I'm just not working my core enough. Would it be worth doing some simple body weight ground work core exercises on my off days?
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Sep 26, 2022 16:33
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I feel like you really cant go wrong with strengthening your core, both for climbing and just general health in life, so why not? It can also be really fast- my impression is that there is not much benefit to doing a longer low difficulty/high reps core workout over doing fewer harder exercises, which rly makes core workouts such a minimal time investment. E: fwiw I do kneeling cable crunches/weighted incline sit-ups/ab rolling mostly - my impression is that lower reps exercises and progressive overload just like any other muscle makes sense? But also Im mostly not doing this for climbing so much as holding my aging body together. Will definitely try the stuff below, sounds fun. tildes fucked around with this message at 18:07 on Sep 26, 2022 |
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Sep 26, 2022 17:29
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Ground core isn't great at building strength that transfers well to climbing, imo. The difference between holding a plank for ~45 seconds and holding a plank for 5 minutes is more about stubbornness than strength, and you aren't going to find a lot of positions on the wall that use your muscles in that way. If you want to do ground core for its own sake, that's cool. Just be sure to do your homework, practice good form and protect your lower back. I would recommend looking for exercises that are focused on intensity rather than duration or high rep counts, e.g. power company's hard planks are more beneficial than a stay-as-relaxed-as-you-can minute plank: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bcmgsayslps If you want the most bang-for-your-time core exercises for climbing, do these: - find a 40-45 degree wall, ideally a densely-set spray wall, and only use the worst, most slippery foot holds. Climb as 'long' as you can, use feet that are very low/far away from your hands, where you have to struggle to maintain tension. Never let your feet slip. Ideally you finish each hand move completely stretched out toe-to-fingertip as far as you can span. - find a very steep wall (between 45 degrees and a flat roof) with plenty of good hand holds. Between every hand move, cut feet, then put them back on the wall on a really, really high foot hold. Pretend you are jimmy webb on spectre https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y0m3MOibdsw&t=182s ploots fucked around with this message at 18:13 on Sep 26, 2022 |
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Sep 26, 2022 17:59
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Yea planks and whatnot are never a bad thing to add to your day to day. I find unless I really conscientiously engage my core though I probably "under-utilize" it while climbing.
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Sep 26, 2022 18:12
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I coach a couple of climbing classes with weaker climbers (5a-6b rope grades). What are your guys' favorite (most but not too demanding) drills? They're office workers with that hunched computer posture. All can TR and a few can lead.
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Sep 27, 2022 09:40
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It's more of a bouldering drill I think, but sloth monkeys are both fun and super useful. Basically climb a problem as static and possible and then as dynamic as possible. Can probably be adapted to portions of routes. Otherwise, Louis Parkinson has a ton of drills and his approach seems to be aimed at newer/weaker climbers
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Sep 27, 2022 11:26
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Sticky holds and quiet climbing are pretty good and focus more on learning good form over being strong, ymmv but I like them a lot.
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Sep 27, 2022 11:44
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The most memorable, effective drill I did in a rope focused class was this: the instructor walked around with a laser pointer, picked a pair of hand holds for the climber, and you couldnt leave those hands until they came around and gave you your next pair of holds. You could shake out, swap hands, do any kind of toe/heel/knee trickery you could come up with. Just an amazing lesson in body positioning, footwork, and creativity. A huge confidence booster for the students, too, once they realize how much longer they can hold on past the point their arms start telling them its difficult. Best done as the last drill of the day, dont let anybody get to the top of their route.
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Sep 27, 2022 14:24
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Thanks (to you and the others) for suggestions. I'm mostly looking for stuff I can do at home/in my room on rest days. But it makes sense that they won't be super applicable (that old adage "want to get good at climbing? Climb more."), so maybe I'll just try to activate my core more during climbing days instead.
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Sep 27, 2022 15:03
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Yea I like trying to just keep my feet as quiet as possible, as well as lock off drills. Though that might be hard for a whole route I just boulder
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Sep 27, 2022 15:54
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If you have a bar at home things like leg raises /windshield wipers/ working into front raises are very applicable
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Sep 28, 2022 00:48
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WOW what a Taco! posted:Thanks (to you and the others) for suggestions. I'm mostly looking for stuff I can do at home/in my room on rest days. But it makes sense that they won't be super applicable (that old adage "want to get good at climbing? Climb more."), so maybe I'll just try to activate my core more during climbing days instead. Anyway if you've been climbing for a total of 4 months and stopped for 4 months, you'll get your strength back in no time and you'll get stronger through climbing. That said, there's nothing wrong with doing extra training if it's not keeping you away from the wall. If you really feel like core is what you need, I found that doing the hollow position is probably the best thing you can do on the floor. If you have a bar then do your core on the bar for sure, That said you could probably also do some yoga, it tends to hit the core a bit and will improve flexibility and stability in awkward positions which is good for climbing. It's a pretty good "general thing you can do at home with only a floor"
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Sep 28, 2022 00:54
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