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wesleywillis posted:You are familiar with the saying "measure twice cut once"? Or is it "measure once cut twice"? For me it's "measure twice, cut thrice."
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Dec 2, 2023 18:54
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I’ve been hearing a hum that starts around 35mph and raises in pitch until road noise takes over at 60. It was louder with the passenger side window open so I checked the wheels on that side, the front had a bit of a rattle while spinning (though no side to side or up and down movement), so I decided to replace the bearing. Tonight I got all the brake stuff off and got it down to only the bearing left on, and confirmed it’s a little hard to spin and stops immediately when you let go.  This is where I stopped for the night, as it was getting late and I didn’t want to annoy my neighbors too much with the hammering. I spent about 10 minutes with no signs of movement. Soaked it with some PB Blaster and will continue in the morning. If nothing happens with another round of the mallet I’ll try to push out a wheel stud and use a nut and bolt to press it away from the knuckle.
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Dec 3, 2023 03:51
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Rear wheel bearings on the C5, it was audible on the freeway (65 limit, 80ish traffic pace) on the way across town from buying it. Seller mentioned it, and they're $120 a side for SKF hub/bearings. Glad I bought 2 and planned to do both sides, because I was wrong about what side it was. I was also getting an ABS/stability control error any time I backed up, and the new hubs (incl wheel sensors) fixed that. Replaced center air dam, which went missing at some point. I also raised the front back to almost stock ride height, and I can now fit a jack under it without plywood under the tires. It still drags the air dam on my dad's driveway. Replaced the low beam bulbs with Hella Long Life 9005s after trimming off the tabs preventing them from fitting in a 9006 position. They're improved, but the car needs more lighting upgrades.
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Dec 3, 2023 06:46
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DrChu posted:I’ve been hearing a hum that starts around 35mph and raises in pitch until road noise takes over at 60. It was louder with the passenger side window open so I checked the wheels on that side, the front had a bit of a rattle while spinning (though no side to side or up and down movement), so I decided to replace the bearing. Is that a subaru? I mean, of course it is.....bad bearing and all. You're not getting the unit bearing out that way. Pull the poo poo shield so it's out of the way, make sure all 4 bolts are out, and start absolutely wailing on it with a 5 lb sledge from side to side until it pops loose. Not that "nice" hammer. You're not "removing" the bearing: you're destroying it out. Pushing through a wheel stud is just going to pop front of the bearing out and now it's even harder to beat on/out. There are a million youtube videos on this procedure and other similar ones because these bearings fail constantly. You should watch a few before proceeding.
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Dec 3, 2023 17:11
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Motronic posted:Is that a subaru? I mean, of course it is.....bad bearing and all. The other trick you can do with unit bearings is cut the stub off an old axle, or just use a bolt and washers, then you can retain the hub into the bearing and use a slide hammer to remove it without the fear of removing just the hub. Everyone thinks unit bearings are so much better, but i honestly hate swapping them, they're expensive, and they fail all the time.
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Dec 3, 2023 17:17
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The car is a BRZ, and this was on a front wheel so luckily I didn't have to worry about an axle. I did watch a lot of videos beforehand, and most seemed to have the hub shocker tool, bolts through the wheel stud holes, or something more extreme like heat+air hammers. I tried the bolt through the wheel stud hole in conjunction with the hub shocker and got it off in about five minutes  Pressing into the 9 o'clock area and hitting the shocker finally got some movement out of the hub, and then I spun it so the bolt was about 6 o'clock and shocker was mostly sideways and that got it the rest of the way.
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Dec 3, 2023 21:56
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DrChu posted:The car is a BRZ, and this was on a front wheel Ahhh, you weren't fighting an AWD front. I couldn't tell from the pic. DrChu posted:something more extreme like heat+air hammers. In the northeast an oxytorch and an air hammer is pretty much plan 1 for most work occurring under a car. It's not considered the slightest bit extreme. It's how you do things without breaking additional parts/stripping and breaking bolts that take forever to extract. 100% basic tooling. That being said, I've never used heat on one of those bearings. I don't really see how it would help because there's too much mass to heat up in a targeted fashion. But an air hammer? Yes. It never hurts to get things jiggling before you try to spin or beat them out.
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Dec 3, 2023 22:00
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Even on my rust free Outback, it was an absolute pain in the dick to get one of the front bearings+hub out. Wound up pulling the spindle, going to town with the torch, and sticking the whole thing in a press. The press deformed a bit before the drat thing finally popped free, and it sounded like a bomb went off when it did break free.
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Dec 4, 2023 01:31
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We pulled a couple strange engines on Saturday, now my friend gets to spend the winter sourcing parts and rebuilding as well as all the other work to get these back on the road. NSU Ro80   NSU tt1200  
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Dec 4, 2023 14:15
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randomidiot posted:Even on my rust free Outback, it was an absolute pain in the dick to get one of the front bearings+hub out. Wound up pulling the spindle, going to town with the torch, and sticking the whole thing in a press. The one time I pulled a rear upright and tried to press a bearing out all I got for my troubles was stripping the bolts out inside the bearing. Then I got smart and used more violence while on the car from then on out.
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Dec 4, 2023 15:06
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The last few times I've done unit bearings on Subarus in MN, some light love with a 3# drilling hammer has gotten them right out?  I do antiseize the poo poo out of the mating surfaces and the bore where they sit in the knuckle, though. I figured I'll be going back in at some point so I better make it easier on future me.
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Dec 5, 2023 02:59
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PitViper posted:The last few times I've done unit bearings on Subarus in MN, some light love with a 3# drilling hammer has gotten them right out? The factory uses no grease of any kind and I live in the northeast. That's the difference.
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Dec 5, 2023 14:19
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NitroSpazzz posted:We pulled a couple strange engines on Saturday, now my friend gets to spend the winter sourcing parts and rebuilding as well as all the other work to get these back on the road. Oh, cool. I’ve never seen one of those NSU rotaries in person. Definitely a little different from Mazda, but still recognizable as a rotary.
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Dec 5, 2023 22:18
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A few weeks ago, the low coolant light came on, so I topped off the overflow tank and all was well. It happened again last week, so I did it again. I noticed some antifreeze on the ground, so I popped the hood and looked for something obvious and got spritzed in the face with coolant. I figured a hose had sprung a leak. Took it to the shop and it turned out to be a borked water pump. Yay! I hate money anyway.
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Dec 7, 2023 02:34
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Today I became the PO. Down to 5 vehicles
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Dec 7, 2023 04:17
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Steve French posted:Today I became the PO. Not the bitchin' white car I hope?
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Dec 7, 2023 12:28
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Suburban Dad posted:Not the bitchin' white car I hope? Nope. Wife and I are in agreement that the Firebird, RS4, and Bronco are toys/forever vehicles and don’t count. Yesterday I finally sold the F150 (replaced by F350 we got for truck camper duty), and am also selling the Touareg, we adopted a third dog and she wanted a three row, narrowed it down to a Yukon. That shipped this morning, apparently.
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Dec 7, 2023 19:21
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I started on the off season list on what is becoming my track car. Just SS rear lines today. I may do some more tonight after the kids go to bed. I did the fronts already but everyone was backordered on the rears when I wanted them. I hate brake fluid. 
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Dec 9, 2023 00:59
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ThirstyBuck posted:I hate brake fluid. The only thing worse is diff oil, and somehow that doesn't end up as all over the place nearly as much as any time I need to deal with brake hydraulics.
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Dec 9, 2023 01:05
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Motronic posted:The only thing worse is diff oil, and somehow that doesn't end up as all over the place nearly as much as any time I need to deal with brake hydraulics. And guess what else is leaking on my 25 year old BMW? I’ll put off the diff gasket for another day. It might be tomorrow though as I want my garage space back for the car I am driving every day. Spoiler alert - the shorter list is what is not leaking. However, if I’m going to track this regularly I’m going to have anything safety related, including any leaks, buttoned up before I go again in the spring. Agreed. At least with diff oil there is usually a designated entry and exit. Brake fluid ends up on everything: gloves, wrenches, parts, the floor, and sometimes a catch pan. Tonight I just flipped the lid of the trash can upside down under the wheel I was working on. It was ghetto and it was just fine for the couple tablespoons that were in the lines.
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Dec 9, 2023 01:57
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Good part about brake fluid is water soluble so you can just hose everything off when you're done. I keep a spray bottle nearby when doing brakes in case things get coated and slippery. I have all the parts to replace the entire front brake system on the Ford, I'll get to it one of these days.
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Dec 9, 2023 11:25
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Got a level one charger for my travels to extended family where there won't be any wallbox to rely on. It has a weird feature that seems to be mandated for sales in France, full power (230V/16A) charge only for two hours then fall back to 8A for the rest of the session but it's not a bad thing for overnight charging.
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Dec 9, 2023 13:26
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Speaking of brake fluid, does it really strip paint like everyone says it does? I've been hearing that for years, but Brake fluid is pretty much hydraulic fluid no? I've been working on hydraulics for years, have gotten that poo poo on everything and never seen paint strip because of it.
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Dec 9, 2023 14:55
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wesleywillis posted:Speaking of brake fluid, does it really strip paint like everyone says it does? Yes it strips paint. Saying "pretty much like hydraulic fluid" is about as accurate as saying all hydraulic fluid is about like hydraulic fluid.
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Dec 9, 2023 16:24
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Fair enough. Whats the difference between the two then? Like I said I've gotten Hydraulic fluid on tons of stuff over the years, and not always bothered to rinse it off and paint hasn't fallen off any of that poo poo.
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Dec 9, 2023 16:37
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Not today but Saturday, and not my car but the fiancee's 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP. We did new rear valve cover gasket, lower intake manifold gasket, thermostat, upper rad hose, purge valve. 12 hours from start to finish. Then we drove 2 hours to WV so he could hit Summit Point on Sunday in the Focus ST (plus an hour cause we had to turn around as we forgot poo poo). Got in at 1am, got up at 6am. I'm cooked.   
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Dec 11, 2023 12:34
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wesleywillis posted:Speaking of brake fluid, does it really strip paint like everyone says it does? Definitely. For model builders, it's the old school method for removing a botched paint job from a model without harming the plastic. The lack of paint that used to be in the MC area of my RX-7 is also proof of function. I've since stripped, blasted, and repainted that. It does take a while to soften the paint, not like actual stripper or lacquer thinner.
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Dec 11, 2023 18:04
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Darchangel posted:Definitely. Is it true that modern brake fluid isn't nearly as caustic to paint as old timer brake fluid? I heard this, but haven't been able to verify if it's true or not.
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Dec 11, 2023 19:03
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chrisgt posted:Is it true that modern brake fluid isn't nearly as caustic to paint as old timer brake fluid? I heard this, but haven't been able to verify if it's true or not. If "modern" is DOT 5 I suppose. But 3/4/5.1 is all glycol based so it will all do the same thing to paint.
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Dec 11, 2023 19:05
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fixed a leak at the coolant neck and deleted what's left of the EGR.  Adjusted the timing. and idle air. Seems to be about all the vacuum it'll give but is very steady.   I'll see how things go when it gets colder, but it seems quite happy right now. https://i.imgur.com/ZLgCDlZ.mp4
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Dec 14, 2023 01:10
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New tires for the 7, going with something more appropriate for road use in the cold wet months. It should wake the car up a bit as well sitting a bit higher and having a bit less grip. Previous is Toyo r888r in 225/45R13 being replaced by Vredestein Sprint Classic in 185/70R13. I almost went with Vred's in 205 width but the 185 is very close to the "factory" size for this car.  Keeping the r888r for track days if they ever happen.
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Dec 16, 2023 11:58
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Finally used the multitool I bought for the purpose I got it for, started removing the sound deadening material from the trunk of the 900, it's had water leakage into the trunk, possibly for years now and that has leaked under the sound deadening. It went real fast to remove it except in a high up corner where water had not made it, it was still stuck real good there. At least no rust holes.  Gonna clean some more, then use rust converter, clean more, then epoxy coat the whole trunk bottom.
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Dec 18, 2023 06:03
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Replaced the radiator on a friend's  Apparently the fan rubs up against the radiator and this happens on every 1st gen Aveo (the fix is to get a dremel and grind down the edge of the housing). Also, her power locks would go apeshit constantly, to the point that she needed a jump every few days (battery was only a couple of months old). Traced that to the driver's door lock actuator - there's no power lock button inside the car, it locks/unlocks all the doors from you pushing/pulling on the lock itself from inside. Figured that part out when I barely nudged it and it sounded like 4 machine guns. She said it drives her crazy going down the road, and the alarm frequently went apeshit while parked. Wound up yanking the fuse for the power locks (bonus: killed the alarm), but of course there's no way to lock the driver's door once the fuse is out, unless you use the key. Tried the typical import tricks of holding the inside handle out while locking, holding the outside handle, etc. It won't lock without using the key with the door closed, but at least it's only that door. I figure the timing belt will let go before I have to touch this thing again. I don't wish that on her, but it's at 77k, and I won't do a timing belt for anyone except myself (like a lot of cars, it requires a few engine-specific tools; she would also want it done at her place, which is an apartment parking lot). Every Aveo I've seen in a junkyard that wasn't wrecked had "bad engine" written on it, and they're known for breaking the timing belt around 50-60k. Aside from the valve cover gasket pissing oil, and the power lock issue, it seemed like it was in decent shape, but it's still a 15 year old Daewoo. She asked if it was worth dropping the money on the timing belt, and I had to go "uhhhhm... well it runs and drives and has working AC, if you want to keep it then yes, but if you plan to get rid of it, TBH I wouldn't bother, it's not worth a whole lot, probably won't last more than a few more years". It was her mom's car, so it has a good bit of sentimental value. Was surprised to see PW/PL on it and keyless entry since it's a base model, doesn't even have a CD player. e: this is what I'm talking about with the fan. AC and non AC cars use different width radiators, but use the same fan. You can see the fan assembly has warped a bit over the years. I wasn't the first one in here either (definitely a lot of reused hose clamps and some finger tight bolts, and the wires were smashed a bit on the O2 sensor), this may be the car's 2nd replacement radiator. I didn't see any GM or Daewoo markings on the one that came out; it got the cheapest known brand I could find (TYC, $75 shipped). I see why you never see these, or Daewoos, on the road anymore too - they're slapped together even worse than a Cavalier, maybe worse than an early Hyundai Excel, with a poo poo engine, poo poo transmission (though shockingly, not a CVT?), and parts are already getting kinda hard to find.  Next time I see her, I'll bring my dremel and shave off the edge of the fan assembly. Radiators on these are apparently a 30-40k mile part until you do that. There's also next to no info online about doing a radiator replacement. I was specifically looking for info on what size sockets/wrenches to bring. Youtube said 8 and 10mm. Nothing was 8mm, it was almost all 10mm except for the transmission cooler lines (banjo bolt on one, hose clamp on the other). Thankfully she had vice grips that worked well enough to break the banjo bolt free, but there was a crush washer under it, so I'm gonna inspect for leaks in a few days. I have some crush washers here that are roughly the same size, but that was probably a 17mm (if not larger) bolt I didn't expect to run into. The lower ATF connection was a screw-in adapter to connect via hose clamp, different size of course. Thankfully the new radiator came with one (I did break the old one free, but the new one had threadlocker on it already). tl;dr I make radiator replacement overly complicated on a car that you never really see on the roads anymore (for good reason) randomidiot fucked around with this message at 14:11 on Dec 19, 2023 |
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Dec 19, 2023 05:10
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If she can only lock the drivers door with the key, that's good prevention from locking the key in the car.
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Dec 19, 2023 14:21
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Oh I agree, and I'm used to that to a degree from owning 80s and 90s Hondas. But on those, you could get around it by pulling the inside door handle and hitting the power lock button (or if you didn't have power locks, just locking the door from the inside), but the number of people I see with older Hondas still locking with the key... FFS, it's printed in the owner's manual. I see the same thing with people driving classic Japanese vehicles too (particularly older Toyota pickups). Their mind is blown when I tell them "hey, if you just hold the outside door handle while locking it, it'll lock". Something is broken in that locking mechanism though - it won't let you lock it even with the door closed. I think that's what hosed it up to begin with - just about every car with power locks will lock the car when you put it in gear (or on a 3 pedal car, when you start moving). I moved it into a different parking space once I was done with it, and tried locking the door from the inside once it was in gear (with the PL fuse out), and... nope. Wouldn't lock, there was something in the door preventing it. I suspect that with the fuse in, it kept trying to lock itself until the contacts wore to the point that it constantly thought you were trying to lock it. Kinda impressed the solenoids have held up that long. Seriously sounds like BRRRRRRT going down the road with the fuse in. My first Honda (1988 Accord LXi) had the same issue, just not bad enough to kill the battery (it would only do it when the driver's door was unlocked; once locked, it was fine). It was always fun when I took it to a drive thru car wash where they didn't let me sit in in the car, and I told them up front "dude, it's gonna lock you out, DON'T LEAVE THE KEY IN IT". 3 times, the car wash had to call a locksmith after the car rolled out... twice shutting the line down, the 3rd time it rolled out into the street and stopped when it hit the curb (in front of the police station across the street  )EDIT: the keyless entry remote is part of the key anyway, you're not locking the keys in it easily if you're used to using the remote. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 16:31 on Dec 20, 2023 |
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Dec 19, 2023 14:40
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Replaced the bottom gaskets on the S6. The oil pan is easy to remove, the sump spacer was a whole other ordeal. Had to drop the subframe and there was still a couple of bolts that put up a fight. You know the kind, the bolts where you have to sit down and have a break before the big hammers or the blue wrench are too inviting. 
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Dec 20, 2023 10:33
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Just a few hours left to get your entry in for The Sheep Game! Click our mission patch to play today! 
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Dec 21, 2023 00:50
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Winter wheels and tires. In tshirt weather, naturally.  Relearned tpms and tirerack had them at 75 psi, a bit over double where they should be
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Dec 27, 2023 22:51
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Removed the front bumper, of my Saab 900 was an incredible PITA because there where several metal fasteners (embedded in plastic) that had simply become one after 33 years of salted winters.  The bumper has a lower portion held on with screws, also rusted beyond saving. I had to disassemble the bumper completely to be able to remove them.  Finally everything is apart. Now I need to consider replacement attachement methods. I am thinking of stainless screws, nuts and washers. Or maybe some kind of plastic fasteners?  The reason I removed the front bumper was to make new brackets for the fog lights I bought but as usual anything I do get's sidetracked.
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Dec 29, 2023 09:41
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I looked at all sorts of fasteners but I went with Saabs original solutions which were "plus nuts" except I go up a size from M4 to M5 bolts.I did not find stainless just zinc, but I guess the originals survived 33 salted winters so I guess it'll do. I do know stainless plus nuts exist however. Creates a very solid connection, the problem is if the bolt rusts in place then the nut will just spin on the plastic like what happened with the originals.   Took the plastic bumper inside and washed it the bathroom, now it smells like apricots.
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Dec 30, 2023 09:52
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