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Casual Encountess posted:so i have an ender3 somebody loaned me a month or two ago and somebody else gave me a crate full of filament. its mostly abs though, and ive only done pla. i know abs gives you triple butt cancer or whatever, but ive never used it. is it like resin where i know i for sure need to keep the printer in the garage, or is putting it near an open window in the office and just not being in the room enough? It smells bad but it’s not going to kill you But also it’s a right pain in the rear end to print well without an enclosure
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Mar 23, 2022 15:48
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Yeah even the tent you get on Amazon helps. But seriously, it's a pain in the rear end to print on the Ender
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Mar 23, 2022 15:56
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it was free, so im not exactly torn up about it. i had only used esun pla+ but the one im printing with rn is like mika silk pla and its gorgeous looking. theres like two unlabeled reels and the rest is clearly ABS. is there a way to id unlabeled poo poo or am i gonna go on an adventure?
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Mar 23, 2022 16:00
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See what temp it melts at? if it prints it prints.. and holds together
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Mar 23, 2022 16:39
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Light it on fire and if it smells like ABS it is ABS
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Mar 23, 2022 17:23
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Casual Encountess posted:it was free, so im not exactly torn up about it. Burn it with a lighter. If it smells sweet it's PLA. If it smells like burning rubber it's ABS. If it smells waxy and sooty it's PETG. It's not likely to be anything else. After a while you'll also be able to tell by the feel of the filament. PLA is stiff and hard, PETG is very flexible, and ABS is somewhere in between. They each sound different when you shake the coils around, too.
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Mar 23, 2022 17:50
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Roundboy posted:The Google tells me is a buffer underrun in marlin. It can also be too long of a gcode file name So, I also did some googling, after changing the gcode name, and trying to print via SD card - neither worked. I also downgraded Cura to the version that I was using before (4.6) with no luck. I found a thread talking about long diagonals causing some kind of timeout. And anecdotally that seems to be where all my 'user input required' messages were coming at. Soooo, I grabbed a copy of Sic3r and Pronterface - sliced up the stl, and used Pronterface to print. So far I've printed 2 parts without issue, so I think it's 'fixed'. Thanks again for the help and pointing me in the right direction.
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Mar 23, 2022 19:09
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Was surprisingly easy to make a custom LCD cover for my prusa mk3 clone I'm going to build (once aliexpress parts arrive)
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Mar 23, 2022 21:17
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porktree posted:So, I also did some googling, after changing the gcode name, and trying to print via SD card - neither worked. I also downgraded Cura to the version that I was using before (4.6) with no luck. Prusa slicer.
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Mar 23, 2022 23:02
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mk3s+ finally shipping from prague, lets hope it arrives by next week as I have pto for thursday and friday to build that bad bitch
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Mar 23, 2022 23:43
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mk3s+ finally shipping from prague, lets hope it arrives by next week as I have pto for thursday and friday to build that bad bitch
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Mar 23, 2022 23:43
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Anyone here tried the alternate versions of Cura? I've seen the official Arachne engine beta version which looks interesting and apparently speeds up printing significantly, and then there's another one with better tree supports as well.
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Mar 24, 2022 00:11
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GotDonuts posted:mk3s+ finally shipping from prague, lets hope it arrives by next week as I have pto for thursday and friday to build that bad bitch If you don't already have a decent set of hex keys, get a decent set of hex keys. The ones you get with it are not very good and from long experience working with bikes I can tell you your hands will be much happier after a day of assembling parts if you get some with comfortable handles.
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Mar 24, 2022 03:21
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T handle hex things are nice if you have the budget
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Mar 24, 2022 04:01
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Just don't get the 't handles' that are just a loop of plastic coated thick wire. Hex screwdriver bits or handles work well too, as well as normal hex keys because you sometimes need that short right angle It's not an ender, so you prob don't need a square, 3-2-1 block , new wires, new fans, ferrules, connectors, etc Spend the time setting it up, then getting a slicer profile that prints nice for your filament. Then start going faster while keeping quality up. It is absurd how fast you can print when you got your squish locked down and auto adjusted
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Mar 24, 2022 04:26
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Doctor Zero posted:Prusa slicer. On it - thanks, does it also send the gcode to the printer, or will I still need Pronterface (or something like it)? I'd install and run it to find out, but I'm printing right now.
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Mar 24, 2022 04:32
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big scary monsters posted:If you don't already have a decent set of hex keys, get a decent set of hex keys. The ones you get with it are not very good and from long experience working with bikes I can tell you your hands will be much happier after a day of assembling parts if you get some with comfortable handles. I have a wowstick and it covers my use 99% of the time, and I absolutely love it Wowstick 1F+ 64 In 1 Electric Screwdriver, Dual Mode Cordless Lithium-ion Charge LED Power Screwdriver (64 in 1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H27G9NF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7MRWNNK2EQGM40NBXH7C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
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Mar 24, 2022 06:42
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Sockser posted:I have a wowstick and it covers my use 99% of the time, and I absolutely love it Well there's something I didn't know I needed until I saw it. Thanks! If my voron kit ever arrives this will probably be a life saver lol
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Mar 24, 2022 12:24
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GotDonuts posted:mk3s+ finally shipping from prague, lets hope it arrives by next week as I have pto for thursday and friday to build that bad bitch Mine shipped on Tuesday and already arrived yesterday. I was shocked at the speed. Now I have to stare at the box until this weekend when I can build it.
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Mar 24, 2022 13:18
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I'm looking for an upgrade for my epax X1 and the Photon Mono 6k is currently on sale and looking very tempting. It seems to be the only sub-$1000 printer currently on the market that is an upgrade for me both in terms of build size and print quality. If I didn't buy one of these, I'm thinking my plan would be to wait until 8k large format printers become more available later this year. For those of you with an Anycubic Mono 6k, do you like it? Would you recommend it?
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Mar 24, 2022 14:52
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porktree posted:On it - thanks, does it also send the gcode to the printer, or will I still need Pronterface (or something like it)? I'd install and run it to find out, but I'm printing right now. Sorry, haven’t tried that. Maybe another goon can weigh in?
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Mar 24, 2022 15:01
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porktree posted:On it - thanks, does it also send the gcode to the printer, or will I still need Pronterface (or something like it)? I'd install and run it to find out, but I'm printing right now. You can definitely send code directly via USB, it may have pronterface built in somewhere. There's a print host upload queue.
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Mar 24, 2022 15:15
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Good to hear, thanks everyone.
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Mar 24, 2022 16:07
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PrusaSlicer won't act as a print host like pronterface does. The installer for prusaslicer has usually included pronterface, though. Most people will set up octoprint / octopi to act as a print host instead of screwing around with SD cards full of gcode files. Prusaslicer has a button to send gcode to a plugged in SD card after slicing, or to send the gcode to an octoprint host after slicing (this is the "print host upload queue"). It won't act as a print host itself - a print host sits on the printer's usb/serial connection and drip feeds it the gcode file, this is what pronterface and octoprint do. e: if you've used slic3r already you should be comfortable with prusaslicer, it's a fork mewse fucked around with this message at 18:28 on Mar 24, 2022 |
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Mar 24, 2022 17:47
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Yay, voron kit is finally released from quarantine and is on hopefully a not so slow boat from china and will be here monday.
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Mar 24, 2022 17:56
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How do y'all get prints (PLA) off of glass beds? I've recently acquired an Ender 3 v2 and holy crap do they adhere. Are the flexible steel plates really all that and a bag of chips? At this point I'd gladly part ways with $25 if it meant I wouldn't have to fight with emptying the kitchen freezer any longer. Would a flexible steel plate require I get one of those bed measuring doodads too, though?
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Mar 24, 2022 19:43
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cruft posted:How do y'all get prints (PLA) off of glass beds? I've recently acquired an Ender 3 v2 and holy crap do they adhere. Depends on if your glass has a coating. For plain borosilicate I make sure to put some glue stick down then do a lot of wedging in with either a scotty peeler or a chisel or both: https://smile.amazon.com/Scotty-Peelers-Label-Sticker-Remover/dp/B0068QIQVA/ https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NOVP8KY/ They both have a finer edge than the scrapers that most printer manufacturers send you with the machine. Don't put your other hand in the path of where the blade can go because it's easy to stab yourself. If you have a creality glass bed with the carborundum coating the print will get loose when the bed cools down. If it's really stuck I can usually just tap it on the side with a little hammer and it'll pop off. If you're really smushing the plastic into it maybe you're a little too low. Flexible build plates are pretty nice for popping prints off. You don't need to get a BL touch or whatever to use one, you'll just need to re-level the build plate once you get it on. Generally build plates stay pretty level although some folks have better luck upgrading the creality springs with those heavier yellow ones. My ender 3 has been fine with the stock ones, though.
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Mar 24, 2022 20:55
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For PLA and borosilicate glass, I just wait. If it doesn't want to pop off right away, it will when the bed cools. This does necessitate waiting and would slow down a mass production, however.
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Mar 24, 2022 21:04
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I hate my wowstick and something in it stripped out in less than a week of use. It's got no oomph and the internals are made of glass if you try and tighten things by hand even a little bit.
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Mar 24, 2022 21:14
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mewse posted:PrusaSlicer won't act as a print host like pronterface does. The installer for prusaslicer has usually included pronterface, though. You lose power off recovery if you use octoprint with a Prusa mk3s though.
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Mar 24, 2022 22:17
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FWIW I have never used the power off recovery feature. Maybe it's useful if you do a ton of multi-day prints and are making money off them, or if your place has unreliable electricity. It's a nice bonus feature I guess? But not having it is not a dealbreaker for me.
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Mar 24, 2022 22:22
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I was describing PrusaSlicer for porktree who has an ender 3 FWIW TIA HTH
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Mar 24, 2022 22:25
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I set up Octoprint with a spare Android phone on my Ender 3 v2 and it was 120% worth the effort Gonna huck this Creality wi-fi box into the bin
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Mar 24, 2022 22:29
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So wait, an old android phone can do the octoprint instead of a Raspberry Pi? I have one of those, it's a Pi I don't have and don't want to pay the current prices for.
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Mar 24, 2022 22:45
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Sockser posted:Wowstick 1F+ 64 In 1 Electric Screwdriver, Dual Mode Cordless Lithium-ion Charge LED Power Screwdriver (64 in 1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H27G9NF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7MRWNNK2EQGM40NBXH7C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 I've seen a heavier-duty-looking version of that before but I don't remember the name of it now. Wowstick looks awesome but I'd want one that is more heavy duty.
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Mar 24, 2022 22:46
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Would anyone be able to print me a few of this part in TPU? I don't want to gently caress with a whole roll for tiny widgets. https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/146399-sunlu-filadryer-s2-ptfe-adapter
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Mar 25, 2022 00:40
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bird food bathtub posted:So wait, an old android phone can do the octoprint instead of a Raspberry Pi? I have one of those, it's a Pi I don't have and don't want to pay the current prices for. https://youtu.be/74xdib_-X38 Here’s a video about using a phone from a reliable source
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Mar 25, 2022 00:42
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cruft posted:How do y'all get prints (PLA) off of glass beds? I've recently acquired an Ender 3 v2 and holy crap do they adhere. Don't bother with the bed levelling sensor. Pei coated steel sheet for a bed and the upgraded yellow bed springs should be mandatory for the ender 3 though. Between those and a slightly nicer hotend cooling duct I printed, my ender 3 is a god drat workhorse and punches way above its price point
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Mar 25, 2022 01:02
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Just take the time to tune it and get your speeds set. I printed 5 of a thing that took ender 50(!) loving hours. Voron did 8 in 17. I really need to spend more time on the ender to make it useful again
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Mar 25, 2022 01:47
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Opinionated posted:I've seen a heavier-duty-looking version of that before but I don't remember the name of it now. Wowstick looks awesome but I'd want one that is more heavy duty. I've got a little no-name cordless electric screwdriver somewhere where the handle flips between straight and pistol grip. It's pretty handy for long screws, but it doesn't have that much torque so you still want a set of manual hex keys for starting stiff screws or tightening ones that need to be especially tight (maybe more applicable to bikes than 3D printers).
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Mar 25, 2022 03:11
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