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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Then it's either a ground loop or your PC's DAC is really noisy The noise was a little less. To be more clear, its only audible when I put my ear an couple inches from the tweeter.
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Jun 12, 2019 01:37
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goodness posted:The noise was a little less. To be more clear, its only audible when I put my ear an couple inches from the tweeter. 
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Jun 12, 2019 03:49
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KillHour posted:If your main concern is ear-splittingly loud music, there's this one: https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/onktx8270/onkyo-tx-8270-2-x-100-watts-a/v-stereo-receiver-w/hdmi/1.html#!more  RichterIX posted:Thanks! I don't have the most discerning ear anyway Hob_Gadling posted:LISTEN BEFORE YOU BUY! If you don't like the sound, buy something else! Due to some time constraints I don't have time in the next ~30 days when I need to have this stuff on my doorstep to go listen to stuff. Ripping the walls off a ~12'x20' room (picture a 12' wart on a 2-car garage) to convert it into an office. I'm in decision paralysis mode and everything looks the same to me. General idea is I want to listen to music while I work. I don't have the most discerning ears due to various anatomical issues (gently caress sinuses, and that kid who jammed a stick into my ear as a kid.) I can tell the difference between my Sennheiser HD580's and my $20 Sennheiser disposable headphones. It's mostly streamed heavy metal, and while I joke about my neighbors reigning in blood along with me I'm not actually looking to make my ears bleed. Inputs: Computer (Windows, I can buy a card for it to get the correct output), Phone (bluetooth), TV (TiVo Mini Vox 4k hooked to a Vizio 4k TV.) Outputs: 2.1 or 3.1 speakers. TV will be hung from a wall on an arm. Speakers will be wall mounted. Budget: Flexible, but I'm not spending $2000 on this setup. Probably. Wirecutter says the Yahmaha RX-V485 is fine, and the RX-V685 is an upgrade from that. Any reason to go the 685 if I'm pretty unlikely to ever add the surrounds? https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/yamrxv485bl/yamaha-rx-v485-5.1-ch-x-80-watts-a/v-receiver/1.html - $80 off to buy a refurb vs new. Dumb idea? Link to the upgrade: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07BZZCHGN Speakers: Is there a "go to" speaker + subwoofer combo? A friend has speakers not unlike these: https://www.polkaudio.com/products/rtia1 he bought them 10 years ago and loves them. Should I just buy these?
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Jun 12, 2019 06:31
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H110Hawk posted:
There is emphatically not a "go to" set of speakers and a sub. That said if you just want to order one thing this $650 package is really well regarded. Basically it's hard to do better for the money than the entry level Hsu or SVS subs but there's a million good cheap bookshelf speakers now. Other speakers to check out off the top of my head: Polk S15, Q acoustics 3020i, NHT SuperOne, ELAC Debut 2.0 B6.2, Canton Chrono 502 [check ac4l], Jamo S803, KEF Q150, etc.
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Jun 12, 2019 15:44
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KingColliwog posted:when I tried to play a movie through my tv using my laptop yesterday I couldn’t get sound. What model is the TV? Does it support the scenario you describe? Read the user manual and see if anything pops out (not the 2 page quick start, the real user manual you download online). Also update the software on the TV.
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Jun 12, 2019 15:51
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goodness posted:The noise was a little less. To be more clear, its only audible when I put my ear an couple inches from the tweeter. *trembles in former audio gear salesman*
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Jun 12, 2019 21:20
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Panty Saluter posted:*trembles in former audio gear salesman* It was playing music at the time, or is this about a a very low hiss being normal for monitors?
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Jun 12, 2019 22:38
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goodness posted:It was playing music at the time, or is this about a a very low hiss being normal for monitors? Very low hiss is normal for those monitors. Sorry bud. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_k5MrB99lpU
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Jun 12, 2019 22:40
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qirex posted:There is emphatically not a "go to" set of speakers and a sub.  qirex posted:That said if you just want to order one thing this $650 package is really well regarded. Basically it's hard to do better for the money than the entry level Hsu or SVS subs but there's a million good cheap bookshelf speakers now. Other speakers to check out off the top of my head: Polk S15, Q acoustics 3020i, NHT SuperOne, ELAC Debut 2.0 B6.2, Canton Chrono 502 [check ac4l], Jamo S803, KEF Q150, etc. Thanks. I have a feeling that at $100/speaker I'm going to be pretty happy. I've heard the RTiA1-style Polk speakers so I think I'll just go with those. Any opinion on ac4l refurb units? 90% going to be totally fine 10% garbage? https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/polkrtia1blk/polk-audio-rti-a1-5.25-2-way-bookshelf-speaker-black-pair/1.html Also right now Polk is really taking the phrase "a bargain at twice the price" to heart: https://www.polkaudio.com/products/rc80i (Currently showing as MSRP $150, SALE $314, in case they fix it.)
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Jun 12, 2019 22:43
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Very low hiss is normal for those monitors. Sorry bud. Thanks, it won't bother me now that I know what it is. I got them for a steal on CL and can't complain about the quality besides that ! I also have them plugged in on a power strip with 3 other things so giving them their own strip should bring the noise down a little bit.
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Jun 12, 2019 23:22
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It will probably make it worse, actually. Everything connected to the speakers should be on the same strip. Including things like monitors that are connected to the computer connected to the speakers. Ideally, there should not be any electricity coming out of one outlet and into another at all.
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Jun 13, 2019 00:36
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KillHour posted:Everything connected to the speakers should be on the same strip. Including things like monitors that are connected to the computer connected to the speakers. Well that could be it. My tower psu is plugged into the wall, with everything else involved on the power strip.
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Jun 13, 2019 00:49
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goodness posted:Well that could be it. My tower psu is plugged into the wall, with everything else involved on the power strip. That might not help your humming, but the way you have it now, your surge protector is offering approximately no protection from power surges.
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Jun 13, 2019 00:54
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KillHour posted:That might not help your humming, but the way you have it now, your surge protector is offering approximately no protection from power surges. Good point. I was only using it for more sockets not the surge protection but I will rearrange stuff.
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Jun 13, 2019 01:36
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goodness posted:It was playing music at the time, or is this about a a very low hiss being normal for monitors? It's like putting your face on a TV and complaining that the individual pixels are visible e: and people who would do that when "auditioning" speakers drove me up a fucken tree
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Jun 13, 2019 13:30
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I can actually do that with my Adam A5Xs, not a sound even with my ear right up to the tweeter. But that is highly unusual and not something I would automatically expect.
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Jun 13, 2019 14:05
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KozmoNaut posted:I can actually do that with my Adam A5Xs, not a sound even with my ear right up to the tweeter. But that is highly unusual and not something I would automatically expect. Panty Saluter posted:It's like putting your face on a TV and complaining that the individual pixels are visible  I do this, but I wouldn't complain about hearing typical white noise. I would be concerned if the noise was different between the two monitors, OR had an oscillation or buzz to it that made it sound different than typical white noise.KillHour posted:That might not help your humming, but the way you have it now, your surge protector is offering approximately no protection from power surges.
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Jun 13, 2019 16:00
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Plugging them into a different circuit will probably cause a ground loop.
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Jun 13, 2019 16:14
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H110Hawk posted:
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Jun 13, 2019 18:13
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qirex posted:I bought my speakers and receiver from AC4L and they've been champs. If there's something wrong it can be a bit of a hassle sending stuff back but that's about the only bad thing I've heard about them and they've been around for 20 years [I used to buy speaker wire from them back in the 90s]. OP says to post a trip report so I pulled the trigger on this stuff from AC4L: (Refurb) 1 POLK AUDIO OS70 Outdoor 6.5" 2-Way Speakers White Pair (POLKOS70) $88.88 $88.88 (Refurb) 1 YAMAHA RX-V685 7.2-Ch x 90 Watts A/V Receiver (YAMRXV685BL) $379.99 $379.99 (New, seemingly quite discounted?) 1 KEF C4 8" 200 Watt Powered Subwoofer Black NEW (KEFC4BLKA) $199.99 $199.99 Amazon: Polk RTi-1A's I realized at the last minute I could slap some speakers on the outside of my office and it would give us music in the back yard, so I decided to go up to the 685 from the 485 to get the second zone. I don't really care about how it sounds outside, as what we were doing before was a random bluetooth speaker. Next to assemble up all the little bits and bobs to route this crap inside the wall. I assume whatever random banaplugs, wall boxes, cables and such from Monoprice/Amazon are fine?
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Jun 13, 2019 18:59
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H110Hawk posted:(New, seemingly quite discounted?) 1 KEF C4 8" 200 Watt Powered Subwoofer Black NEW (KEFC4BLKA) $199.99 $199.99 And yeah, Monoprice/Amazon are fine for cables. Get CL2/CL3 speaker wire if you're going through a wall.
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Jun 13, 2019 19:24
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qirex posted:I assume you're going to find out why it's so discounted. General advice is to not buy subwoofers from companies that don't primarily do subs. I'm sure it won't be horrible but it's not what I would buy. As far as lessons learned, a suggested list of "not bad, but maybe not what you want" would go a long way for people like me. I know this thread is philosophically against it, but to people like me who are low-effort it comes across like something I would expect in the "let's make fun of audiophiles" thread. I mean this as constructive criticism.  qirex posted:And yeah, Monoprice/Amazon are fine for cables. Get CL2/CL3 speaker wire if you're going through a wall. Good to know. Something like: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=2817 . For the gauge I googled and found this: https://www.audioholics.com/audio-video-cables/speaker-cable-gauge which says for a 60' run at 8 ohms I should use 12 AWG. My maximum run length should be no further than three times the longest dimension of the room, to account for across the room, up the wall (8'), down the wall, and any jumper cables. Seem like a reasonable assumption?
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Jun 13, 2019 20:15
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H110Hawk posted:As far as lessons learned, a suggested list of "not bad, but maybe not what you want" would go a long way for people like me. I know this thread is philosophically against it, but to people like me who are low-effort it comes across like something I would expect in the "let's make fun of audiophiles" thread. I mean this as constructive criticism. The lower end of the market always involves compromises and as of now the $400-500 price point is where you start getting into "proper" subs. I don't think you could have done much better for 200 new, I've just never heard anyone say anything good about KEF's subs. I think with the smaller drivers [8" is little by subwoofer standards] you at least won't get into them being too boomy which is the downside of a lot of cheaper subs. You'll probably get more imediate enjoyment out of outdoor speakers and in a few years if you decide you might want more bass Hsu, REL, SVS and Rythmik will [probably] still exist. edit: 12 AWG for speaker wire is fine.
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Jun 13, 2019 21:53
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The Big Bad Worf posted:Looking to get a receiver for my living room. My primary concerns are hdr/4k pass through, and no audio or input lag added by the receiver. Other features like a phono input and eARC would be a nice bonus, but I wouldn't pay a huge premium just to get those. I think I'm getting closer to finding what I need; testing on the X3400H seems to indicate that it has an output mode for the video that has 4ms or less of video delay. But something I can't find in the manual is whether or not it supports a function to directly pass analog inputs to the amplifying hardware without having to be routed through all of the digital processing, which is a function that would allow it to act like an analog only 2.0/2.1 receiver, effectively. If the decoding on the audio isn't fast enough for my tastes, this would give me a backup way to connect some of my consoles to get the performance I want. Some Pioneer and Onkyo AVRs state plain as day that they have special modes to route analog inputs directly to the amplifiers. The closest I can see in the Denon manuals is mention of a "Direct" or "Pure Direct" mode that seems to focus more on turning off the analog hardware entirely to reduce potential for noise / interference for digital to analog conversions. Did I miss something in the manual, or am I not correctly interpreting the function of the Direct modes?
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Jun 14, 2019 09:06
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Pure direct turns off all audio processing. It might not sound great because you’ll be flying with solely the characteristics of your speakers and your room, but it’s there.
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Jun 14, 2019 12:48
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Looking at the Marantz NR series at A4L. What are the tradeoffs? This will be in an urban (smaller) living room; smaller wall-mounted surrounds (not installed or picked yet), 8inch subwoofer (physical size and trying not to kill the neighbors), motorized projector screen on the ceiling (so as not to reduce wall space for art). There is a desire to minimize the amount of black boxiness on display and my partners grumpiness about the poor aesthetics. Does the Denon 940h or x2500 sound/act/function better enough to justify the extra size/power? I understand they are sister companies; do they have similar amp designs/sound? My current stereo is a Pioneer SX1010 with restored KLH17s that have never been above 1/3-1/2 volume for fear of breaking things. ShotgunWillie fucked around with this message at 16:53 on Jun 14, 2019 |
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Jun 14, 2019 16:51
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qirex posted:Didn't mean to come across snotty, it's nice to see someone actually follow through since most people who start asking about this stuff get frustrated and buy a soundbar. I also have a free-to-me LG? brand soundbar w/ bluetooth remote sub I'm going to hookup to my primary TV where I do all of my movie watching.  Right now the sound is from the back facing speakers in the TV shooting unevenly into a corner. Right is about 2" from the wall and left is about 2' because it's angled into the corner. It's going to be amazing. qirex posted:The lower end of the market always involves compromises and as of now the $400-500 price point is where you start getting into "proper" subs. I don't think you could have done much better for 200 new, I've just never heard anyone say anything good about KEF's subs. I think with the smaller drivers [8" is little by subwoofer standards] you at least won't get into them being too boomy which is the downside of a lot of cheaper subs. You'll probably get more imediate enjoyment out of outdoor speakers and in a few years if you decide you might want more bass Hsu, REL, SVS and Rythmik will [probably] still exist. I'll probably turn it way down in general, it's not a big room. Thanks for the speaker wire AWG. Going to see if I'm supplying that or the person installing it before I buy several hundred feet of it.
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Jun 14, 2019 17:32
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Dogen posted:Pure direct turns off all audio processing. It might not sound great because you’ll be flying with solely the characteristics of your speakers and your room, but it’s there. Sounds good. How does audio / video sync work between an AVR and a TV, when you don't have any particular concern for how delayed either signal is, such as watching movies? I basically have 3 use cases I'm concerned about : Being able to play one style of game where audio latency is equal to input lag, every other game in existence where video latency equals input lag, and watching movies where I don't care how laggy everything is as long as it's in sync. Like, outside of game mode, my TV has 100ms of video delay. In game mode, it's closer to 13ms. Another TV might have 250ms or more. Does everyone just manually dial in their lipsync settings on a per input / per display basis? Or is there an automated function with HDMI (maybe ARC/eARC) that handles this with no fuss? When the TV decodes everything and plays to the internal speakers, everything is just in sync and I don't have to think about it. My only frame of reference is using a soundbar that supported ARC - in that use case, all of my devices were connected directly to the TV, and then audio went to the soundbar with ARC - the TV delayed the audio signal to match the video delay of the mode / input I was using, and it was...OK. The soundbar had its own undefeatable audio latency, but this particular chain of connections at least ensured that the soundbar was at least consistent in how out of sync it was cross all inputs and display modes of the TV. The AV sync settings offered by the TV and soundbar would only allow me to add more audio delay, which would just make the problem worse. What happens when you feed everything into the receiver first? Does the inverse then become true? (Ie: The receiver decodes the audio signal taking x amount of time, then the receiver delays the video signal it outputs by x ms, which would then add the video delay from the AVR to the video delay from the TV). If those are the only two possible outcomes, it seems (to me) that whatever the last device in the chain is must be able to play the video or audio feed with 0 processing delays, in order to stay in sync. The Big Bad Worf fucked around with this message at 21:22 on Jun 14, 2019 |
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Jun 14, 2019 21:20
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An AVR often has a delay setting of some kind of your tv is super slow. On my Denon there is an option where you watch a source while adjusting the audio delay to your liking. In practice I don’t mess with that setting and use game mode on my tv for games and it’s fine but I got rid of all my rock band poo poo about 7 years ago so
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Jun 14, 2019 22:13
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The only thing that's going to cause (video) input lag/delay is the TV. The lipsync setting on receivers just delays the audio to match, i don't think they're capable of delaying the video but I could be wrong. I think you're maybe overthinking that part. Personally I leave my tv in "game mode" all the time because I don't want any of its garbage image processing features anyway.
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Jun 14, 2019 22:15
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Edit: whoops
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Jun 14, 2019 22:24
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If there is distance correction (about 1 millisecond per foot) the AVR would have to delay the video to allow for the audio delay. And I'm sure doing fancy DSP audio codecs isn't free, but it probably is pretty fast. You probably don't have to worry about it. taqueso fucked around with this message at 22:44 on Jun 14, 2019 |
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Jun 14, 2019 22:41
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ShotgunWillie posted:Looking at the Marantz NR series at A4L. What are the tradeoffs?
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Jun 15, 2019 21:08
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For my next installment of horrifying audiophiles for fun and profit: Headphone jack in the wall (https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=6576) from the output of my receiver (YAMAHA RX-V685) so I can don headphones to watch whatever it's outputting instead of having my If the answer is "don't be that stupid" I assume the answer is a bluetooth headphone setup that plugs into the Headphone port on the receiver?
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Jun 17, 2019 00:51
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Hey noisegoons, someone is selling a PSW450 for $150 locally. Quick googling suggests it's not a bad deal but I thought I'd get a second opinion.
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Jun 17, 2019 16:42
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H110Hawk posted:For my next installment of horrifying audiophiles for fun and profit: Headphone jack in the wall (https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=6576) from the output of my receiver (YAMAHA RX-V685) so I can don headphones to watch whatever it's outputting instead of having my
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Jun 17, 2019 18:29
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H110Hawk posted:For my next installment of horrifying audiophiles for fun and profit: Headphone jack in the wall (https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=6576) from the output of my receiver (YAMAHA RX-V685) so I can don headphones to watch whatever it's outputting instead of having my There is a chance your receiver might just mute all the speakers when you plug in headphones. You would have to unplug and replug whenever you wanted to change what you were listening to. What I would do instead is use an RCA from the Zone 2 output on the Yamaha to a headphone amplifier next to you. This would be fancier, give you more control and a semi-permanent setup.
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Jun 18, 2019 07:57
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qirex posted:40 feet on a headphone cable probably won't work unless your receiver puts out crazy power. This is what I assumed, thanks. It might be shorter than that but we shall see once I've laid out the wires. evobatman posted:What I would do instead is use an RCA from the Zone 2 output on the Yamaha to a headphone amplifier next to you. This would be fancier, give you more control and a semi-permanent setup. I hadn't considered this. I will test this out once I get some cables and can read the manual. I am planning on setting up Zone 2 as outdoor speakers, so this may simply not be feasible. Everything came in 2 days early and I haven't yet ordered any speaker wire. 
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Jun 18, 2019 21:08
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H110Hawk posted:I hadn't considered this. I will test this out once I get some cables and can read the manual. I am planning on setting up Zone 2 as outdoor speakers, so this may simply not be feasible. Run 2 sets of cables, swap as necessary. Or get an RCA switching box.
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Jun 19, 2019 07:15
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H110Hawk posted:If the answer is "don't be that stupid" I assume the answer is a bluetooth headphone setup that plugs into the Headphone port on the receiver? Your receiver has native bluetooth so you don’t even have to plugin anything to try that.
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Jun 20, 2019 16:39
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