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The plugs are generic, however I don't know if the PCIe cable needs to be in the PCIe spot on the PSU, vs the CPU power which might look exactly the same. I don't know if it matters, but the slot layout might be different between the two. But yes it should just plug and play (but if it doesn't actually help you might as well replace the cables too to rule it out)
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Apr 23, 2014 15:39
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Pivo posted:In the mean time you can stop turning off your computer ;-) I'm afraid to leave the computer on in case it explodes and burns my house down.
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Apr 23, 2014 15:40
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Do you have any bulging or blown capacitors on the motherboard? It's less likely with modern solid caps vs. electrolytic caps, but bad caps are known to cause problems with powering up PCs. Look for these:  or these:  If you have any of this going on, your options are to replace the board or replace the damaged caps. A new PSU wouldn't help you in that case.
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Apr 23, 2014 18:02
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cisco privilege posted:Do you have any bulging or blown capacitors on the motherboard? It's less likely with modern solid caps vs. electrolytic caps, but bad caps are known to cause problems with powering up PCs. Nope, they're all fine, just checked. Would the battery on the mobo have anything to do with it? The whole thing is making no sense to me. Oh yeah, earlier I tried to start the machine by disconnecting the power button cable from the motherboard and just bridging the pins with a screwdriver, which did nothing.
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Apr 23, 2014 19:37
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WattsvilleBlues posted:Nope, they're all fine, just checked. Would the battery on the mobo have anything to do with it? http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/302360-31-computer-turns-split-shuts This is the exact problem I had, and sounds like yours too. Unfortunately it is a more or less detailed explanation to simply try a new PSU first, but there is a lot of good info there on how to test your PSU with a volt meter and troubleshooting link that mostly won't apply, but could.
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Apr 23, 2014 20:00
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Ignoarints posted:http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/302360-31-computer-turns-split-shuts A CMOS battery - is that just a standard CR2032 battery? http://www.amazon.co.uk/Duracell-CR...ds=cmos+battery Cause I'd be delighted if I could spend £3 instead of £70 and fix it tonight.
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Apr 23, 2014 20:02
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Almost always but I'd look at it or look it up. Also the info about shorting on the case is a nice thing to try as well, and would make sense. And free to try if you have cardboard
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Apr 23, 2014 20:19
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Every time I've built a computer past the first one, I put electrical tape over the mobo standoffs before doing anything else. gently caress having to take all that poo poo out later if there ends up being a short.
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Apr 23, 2014 21:27
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Well, it's not the CMOS battery, just fired in a new one and getting the same poo poo.Ignoarints posted:Almost always but I'd look at it or look it up. If there was something in the case(es) shorting, would it not stop it working altogether? It just seems to be the initial turn on that's giving me grief, when I restart it works fine. It's going to end up being the motherboard, I can feel it in my bones 
WattsvilleBlues fucked around with this message at 22:00 on Apr 23, 2014 |
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Apr 23, 2014 21:58
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Back off the screws and slide some cardboard under the mobo
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Apr 23, 2014 22:00
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Thick cardboard in the wrong place risks warping the board if it's on the thin side. I'd test it outside of the case to rule out grounding issue which can cause intermittent power issues, but I would be really wary placing anything underneath the board itself. Also WattsvilleBlues you'll want to make sure that you don't have a case standoff in the wrong position or something since it could be touching the board. This requires taking the board out, but you really should be doing that anyways to test it outside of the case anyways. If the motherboard backplane is somehow touching the board itself the case is hosed up and should just be replaced (IIRC it's already been swapped out but it's worth checking the standoffs at least). future ghost fucked around with this message at 00:20 on Apr 24, 2014 |
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Apr 24, 2014 00:15
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cisco privilege posted:Thick cardboard in the wrong place risks warping the board if it's on the thin side. I've got a new PSU coming on Friday, I'll shove that thing in and then move the build outside the case if it's still fooked at that stage. My standoffs are all in the right position, though the new ones that came with the case didn't fit the screws that came with the case too. loving computers, man.
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Apr 24, 2014 00:31
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WattsvilleBlues posted:I built my machine 2 years ago based on advice from you goons. It's developed a problem where it won't turn on most of the time - I thought it was the case (Fractal Design R3), since that was the only component that had given me any hassle (power LED light connections that attach to the motherboard broke early on in the system's life). Thinking it was the power button, I got a Fractal Design R4 and transplanted everything today. Heck, at two years the MB should also be under warranty still too. 
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Apr 24, 2014 00:39
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bUm posted:Just out of curiosity: is there a reason you hopped to looking to buy a new PSU when you have one that comes with a five year warranty that is only two years old? If you posted this to Seasonic support (going by experience with my Corsair PSU issues), they might just tell you to RMA even if it might not be the problem. I guess this could've bit you a little in shipping costs if it's not the problem, but was a cheaper option if it was (and, theoretically, you should've been good for another five years assuming you don't get unlucky again; Seasonic's PSU reputation suggests you wouldn't). I'll look at RMAing the PSU if it turns out that the new one sorts me out, then I can sell the replacement I get. Impatience is my only excuse.
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Apr 24, 2014 01:16
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Well as long as youre honest lol
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Apr 24, 2014 02:10
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This a good benchmark for my system? http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/8264665 And if this means gently caress all what are better ways to benchmark?
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Apr 25, 2014 06:42
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NeoSeeker posted:This a good benchmark for my system? http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/8264665 I dont know. The graph there lets you see others with similar hardware (supposedly, some are bound to be bullshit) but you can get an idea. Do you have an overclock? The score seems to be slightly lower than average
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Apr 25, 2014 06:45
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I looked more into it and turns out most of the top scores are OCing their graphics cards by like double regular output. I'm guessing I'm getting at least what I should be getting to an actually very good reading. Something screwing is going on with my hardware or I'm just crazy. Which I am, certified and more evidence to the fact that my computer is running just fine points in the latter circumstance... I may actually be hallucinating graphical glitches. NeoSeeker fucked around with this message at 07:37 on Apr 25, 2014 |
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Apr 25, 2014 07:35
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NeoSeeker posted:I looked more into it and turns out most of the top scores are OCing their graphics cards by like double regular output. NeoSeeker, it is possible that your system is working *slightly* behind par. However, not all benchmark runs are created equal so I wouldn't worry too much. TL;DR The hardware in your system is hardware that people interested in overclocking within the "mid-range" are currently using. Your system is probably fine. Also, please don't compare all of the scores directly as I was using a different version/test of 3dmark. I was using them more for the fancy graphs.  Take my pc (gtx770 & 1090t) for example. This was done just after a fresh install of windows. (post updates etc...) I was also using 3dmark/first strike 1.1 test so don't compare this result directly with yours as you were using 3dmark11. And then look at my friend's pc (gtx760 & fx6300). This benchmark was done on new hardware using the existing version of windows on the hard drive from his old build. We had just stripped back down to be "like new". Again, this was a 3dmark/fs 1.1 test. Now look at your pc (gtx760 & i5-4670k). The graph does shows you behind similar systems although it's not by much. I'd be curious to see what the 3dmark/fs 1.1 scores look like. So let's break it down a bit.
The first point is what you'll see when you look at my pc, the second is more representative of my friends setup, and the third is most likely the situation you're in. The 760's are very capable overclockers and you happen to have a "k" model processor (unlocked multiplier). On that third point, a higher percentage of systems running the benchmark will have some level of overclocking done on them and thus your score compared to similar systems seems lower than it should be. e. For the record I had bumped my cpu clock up from something around 3.2 GHz to 3.77 GHz and left the graphics card at stock. My friend had all of his hardware at stock clocks. Also, I don't have enough graphs and data  from these computers at stock clocks versus when I have them overclocked to really show what I'm getting at but I hope it's at least somewhat visible.
Edgy Bees fucked around with this message at 09:39 on Apr 25, 2014 |
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Apr 25, 2014 09:11
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I've never done 3d mark before and I downloaded the "basic edition" one and got over 20,000 as a score with one lightly overclocked 770 (4670k @ 4.5). Which seems impossible because the highest score ever for a 4670k with any GPU is 17000 something. I was never big into benchmarks but I'd like to find a nice one to compare before and after for various settings.
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Apr 25, 2014 14:39
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The 3dmark benchmark can be done for free. Just pick up the demo, run the benchmark, and put the resulting url to your score somewhere you'll remember it for later. The 3dmark demo can be picked up on Steam. Or you can grab it from the 3dmark website. 3DMark Basic Edition You *do not need* the advanced or professional editions to get your scores and share links to them.
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Apr 25, 2014 17:31
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Ignoarints posted:I've never done 3d mark before and I downloaded the "basic edition" one and got over 20,000 as a score with one lightly overclocked 770 (4670k @ 4.5). Which seems impossible because the highest score ever for a 4670k with any GPU is 17000 something. I was never big into benchmarks but I'd like to find a nice one to compare before and after for various settings. Make sure if you're comparing scores that they are coming from the same version & test. As of right now, the "go to" 3dmark scores are from the First Strike test. Scores from old tests won't be able to use your hardware to its fullest and in turn won't mean as much when comparing new hardware. Also, if you're really interested in this sort of thing don't just use one benchmark. Different tests do different things. Some here may argue that 3dmark isn't that great of a test to begin with. I just like it because it's an easy baseline & a lot of people use it. quote:Fire Strike is a showcase DirectX 11 benchmark designed for today's high-performance gaming PCs. It is our most ambitious and technical benchmark ever, featuring real-time graphics rendered with detail and complexity far beyond what is found in other benchmarks and games today.
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Apr 25, 2014 17:53
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Would the demo's final score be good enough for a baseline? I'm guessing fire strike is not in the demo. Nevermind. Someone took a look at a current DXdiag and spotted possible driver problems. Which made me remember I did not install my drivers in safe mode in the first place... I could post it here. I forgot what tags to use for text in a post to make a GIANT block of text only appear if you click on it. NeoSeeker fucked around with this message at 20:04 on Apr 25, 2014 |
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Apr 25, 2014 19:38
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NeoSeeker posted:Would the demo's final score be good enough for a baseline? I'm guessing fire strike is not in the demo. Fire Strike is in the demo. You just need to let 3dmark run through all of the other (older) tests first. It takes some time, but hey, it's free. It takes somewhere around 15 minutes to run the full thing, which is the only option with the demo anyway. Personally, I think it's good enough for a baseline of modern systems intended for use with graphically intense applications. Although, if you generally stick to using your PC for a single task, or even a single game for that matter, a more targeted test would help you to optimize for whatever that happens to be. Having said that, there is no need to overclock your GPU if you're application is CPU bound or vice versa. In my case, I found out that the memory controller on the 1090t was the limiting factor in my overclock. That particular chip didn't want to go over 3.7-3.8 GHz with 4 DIMMs. So it came down to running various tests to see if I would be better off with a higher clock and less memory or less clock and more memory. I ended up opting for the 3.8 GHz clock with 16 GB of RAM (4x4) because for what I was doing the system seemed to "free itself" after I got anywhere over 3600MHz on *all* cores instead of just half of them with turbo-boost. (1090t had turbo-boost on 3/6 cores or something that ended up being fairly worthless for me). And by free itself, I mean that the gain from increasing the CPU clock became less of a factor at that point than increasing my GPU clock. So I just rocked it back and forth until I find a good equilibrium of speed and heat I could live with. Edgy Bees fucked around with this message at 20:43 on Apr 25, 2014 |
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Apr 25, 2014 20:21
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NeoSeeker posted:Which made me remember I did not install my drivers in safe mode in the first place... quote:I could post it here. I forgot what tags to use for text in a post to make a GIANT block of text only appear if you click on it. HTML [Code] tags would do that, or you can list in on Pastebin.
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Apr 25, 2014 20:46
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cisco privilege posted:Do people actually do this? I haven't used safe mode for driver installs since XP.  I hope not.Although, I'm now interested to see if anyone says otherwise. e. And I may as well ask what was the logic behind that in the fist place? Edgy Bees fucked around with this message at 20:53 on Apr 25, 2014 |
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Apr 25, 2014 20:51
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cisco privilege posted:Do people actually do this? I haven't used safe mode for driver installs since XP. before: http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/8266803 after: http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/8264665 Here's a new DXdiag with the fresh drivers: http://pastebin.com/JRfDc7Fq Everything seems to be running smoother now. The game I was having the most trouble with now is fully functional. And it's a performance hog with a 7 year old engine with giant battles. X3 Albion Prelude. The fights that go on give me a nerd boner. Jesus christ the improvement is phenomenal. My machine is running better than when I first turned it on. I never knew fresh driver installs could actually make a difference. NeoSeeker fucked around with this message at 21:15 on Apr 25, 2014 |
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Apr 25, 2014 21:08
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NeoSeeker posted:before: http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/8266803 Did you use a safe-mode install here? If so, did it help or hurt you? It looks like you used Nvidia 9.18.13.3523 for both runs. Also, if the before & after is correct, a minus 152 point difference is interesting considering nothing changed as far as I can tell and you're seeing a noticeable improvement with the 'after' report.  Although I will say that if you have any piece of hardware that is of the most recent generation, you will likely benefit significantly from driver updates (& firmware depending on what it is). This is especially true with graphics cards. Edgy Bees fucked around with this message at 21:24 on Apr 25, 2014 |
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Apr 25, 2014 21:20
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Are you talking about direct x drivers?
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Apr 25, 2014 21:21
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Ignoarints posted:Are you talking about direct x drivers? Not sure who this is directed at but I am referring to the Nvidia Drivers & Software.
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Apr 25, 2014 21:37
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Hum. Weird since they were the same drivers. Nice though. I feel like there's been like 3 or 4 driver updates from nvidia this year alone so yours got messed up somehow really quickly
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Apr 25, 2014 21:49
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Yeah I think using the Nvidia installer fucks with it because there were already two or three driver updates this year. I did get a noticeable performance boost so something must have been going wrong with the drivers. In other words, yes, I guess installing in safe mode actually helps. I'm doing fresh installs manually every driver update now. Case in point my computer started getting screwy a month or two ago. Now with this fresh install the screwiness is gone.
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Apr 25, 2014 22:57
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Oh well yeah I always update manually I guess (although not in safe mode) and I check "clean installation" - for what its all worth. Edit: wrong thread lol Ignoarints fucked around with this message at 02:00 on Apr 26, 2014 |
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Apr 26, 2014 01:15
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Hey guys -- trying to modify my computer for the first time in ever; ran into an issue; thought this was a good place to ask. Basically in 2010 I spent my second Grown-Up Paycheck ever on an HP Pavilion Elite HPE-300z, and this week it came to my attention that 4 years is a long time and it runs newer games like rear end. I decided to pick up a new graphics card, but discovered while shopping around for that that my wimpy 300-watt power supply wasn't gonna be enough to juice up basically anything worth dropping money on. So I also bought a new power supply. The new power supply is somewhat bigger than my old one, but still fits inside the case. Long story short, I successfully switched out the power supply (by plugging it in to all the places the old one was plugged into and screwing it to the side of the case) and the computer now boots up to Windows and everything without lighting on fire or exploding or any of the other things I was afraid would happen, but whenever it's powered on it makes a loud noise until I turn it off again. Not, like a grinding noise or a loud whirring noise or any other noise you'd expect to come out of a computer that had recently been worked on by someone who had no idea what he was doing, but like... a laser continuously being fired. Like a tractor beam. My girlfriend said it sounded like she was being abducted by aliens. Did I get a bad power supply and I should get a refund/exchange, or could this be related to the thing being bigger than the old one and vibrating against the case in a way it wasn't before, or is there something obvious I forgot to do?
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Apr 27, 2014 18:49
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I've never heard a laser to make a sound so I don't know what you're talking about, maybe you could upload a short video somewhere. Have the case open so we can hear well.
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Apr 27, 2014 18:58
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loquacius posted:Hey guys -- trying to modify my computer for the first time in ever; ran into an issue; thought this was a good place to ask. What kind of video card did you get? Did you hook up the power connectors on the card? Some of them have a low-power alarm that sounds when they don't get enough power over the PCI express power connector.
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Apr 27, 2014 19:01
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I didn't put in the new graphics card yet; trying to take it one step at a time, so when problems come up I can more easily tell what caused them (for all the good that appears to have done so far). I've got a friend coming over in a little bit to take a look at it; I'll try taking a video when he gets here if he can't figure it out. e: Now that you mention it, though, it's possible that the power supply isn't hooked up to the old graphics card properly and it's making the noise. This bears investigation too.
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Apr 27, 2014 19:05
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Put your head inside and see where the sound is coming from. I'm assuming you mean like... movie laser noises or something, but still that isn't a normal sound for a computer to make.
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Apr 27, 2014 19:52
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Okay, false alarm, guys. We turned the PC back on and the noise was much quieter than before, and then when we tried turning it on with the case open to see where it was coming from there wasn't anything at all. Our hypothesis was that it was a cable being pushed up against a fan and being struck by the blades in a really weird way. Tucking everything away more firmly seems to have addressed the problem; the graphics card is even hooked up now and everything. Just wanted to open the question to the Internet in case we couldn't figure it out ourselves. Thanks for your help 
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Apr 27, 2014 20:24
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Hi everyone. I'm wondering if there's a simple way to hook my Wii U up to my computer monitor and sound without buying many extras. I have a 660ti graphics card with HDMI and a Dell U2410 (also has HDMI). My speakers are M-Audio AV40s. I didn't know if I should post this question here or in IYG, but I figured I'd start here.
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Apr 27, 2014 20:51
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