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Kuvo posted:proper nu funnel setup I could barely get myself to finish the normal six...
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Mar 16, 2019 00:40
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Hey folks, does anyone know of any nice mecha-themed artbooks? Something with a variety of series/artists/styles would be optimal, but I’d settle for something Gundam-focused. All I can find art artist-specific compilations.
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Mar 16, 2019 20:07
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The new SD line will include motorcycles for everyone They're compatible with the armor from the SD kits 
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Mar 16, 2019 21:50
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Since getting an airbrush isn't going to happen any time soon I thought I'd give hand painting a try. Decided to use the spare torso from the Leo NPD as a test subject.  Front came out better than I was expecting but the back is a little thin in places. Was having trouble trying to find the right amount of thinner that would get me good coverage but not clog-up the panel lines and lose all the detail. Also I forgot that part of the grey frame piece would be visible, but the massive chin on the head covers up that part alright. Don't know if I'm going to try to do the rest of the kit, but I think I'll give the head a go.
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Mar 16, 2019 22:12
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Gripweed posted:The new SD line will include motorcycles for everyone I'll be honest, I don't get SD gundam's appeal
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Mar 16, 2019 22:29
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Improbable Lobster posted:I'll be honest, I don't get SD gundam's appeal You've never wondered what it would be like if Gundams were electric Chinese warriors? 
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Mar 16, 2019 23:07
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Gripweed posted:You've never wondered what it would be like if Gundams were electric Chinese warriors? I know it's partially the paintjob but that looks really nice.
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Mar 16, 2019 23:10
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Veotax posted:Since getting an airbrush isn't going to happen any time soon I thought I'd give hand painting a try. Decided to use the spare torso from the Leo NPD as a test subject. Very nice for hand painting. Like airbrushing, you want to go in layers with adequate drying time between layers. You're probably a hair to thick and need to thin it down slightly more. I aim for about 3-4 layers for full coverage. On a primed piece, the first layer you should still be able to see the primer through the paint, 2nd should be almost gone, with the 3rd being full cover. But saying that, the nature of hand painting does lead to filling of panel lines more than airbrushing. It's just how it is, you can't get the fine control with a brush like with an airbrush. Keep at it, finishing a hand painter kit is super rewarding!
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Mar 16, 2019 23:16
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Gripweed posted:You've never wondered what it would be like if Gundams were electric Chinese warriors? Don't get me wrong, that does look nice. I'd like it more if it was regular gundam proportions though
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Mar 16, 2019 23:24
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Improbable Lobster posted:Don't get me wrong, that does look nice. I'd like it more if it was regular gundam proportions though MG Knight Gundam when.
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Mar 16, 2019 23:34
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Anonymous Robot posted:Hey folks, does anyone know of any nice mecha-themed artbooks? Something with a variety of series/artists/styles would be optimal, but I’d settle for something Gundam-focused. All I can find art artist-specific compilations. This is every Gundam unit to date when published but the last edition is a few years old. Shop around, it’s available in lots of places.
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Mar 17, 2019 02:17
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I'm in Tokyo and I wanna hit up some Gunpla stores, not even to purchase but just browse; the Gundam Store in Odaiba's a lock, and I believe Yodobashi Camera was also a good one? I found some neat second-hand kits in Mandarake (Shibuya) too
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Mar 17, 2019 12:29
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Nakano Broadway has one used Gunpla store when I was there a few years ago but It also has a ton of other neat second hand toy stores too.
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Mar 17, 2019 14:01
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Merilan posted:I'm in Tokyo and I wanna hit up some Gunpla stores, not even to purchase but just browse; the Gundam Store in Odaiba's a lock, and I believe Yodobashi Camera was also a good one? If you're just browsing, the Gundam Base is gonna be a one stop shop because half the novelty is they have almost every single kit ever released.
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Mar 17, 2019 17:34
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Improbable Lobster posted:Don't get me wrong, that does look nice. I'd like it more if it was regular gundam proportions though what do you think about the CS frames?
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Mar 17, 2019 23:42
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mikeycp posted:what do you think about the CS frames? I guess they're cute 
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Mar 17, 2019 23:45
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Merilan posted:I'm in Tokyo and I wanna hit up some Gunpla stores, not even to purchase but just browse; the Gundam Store in Odaiba's a lock, and I believe Yodobashi Camera was also a good one? If you airbrush or are willing to sell to goons with airbrushes, hit up Yellow Submarine and get some of this stuff: http://www.artfun.jp/itemlist6.html It's oleophobic/hydrophobic airbrush coating. A friend of mine brought some back for me and I finally figured out how to use it - I thought it had to be applied, then the airbrush heated up to bake it on. That deffo didn't work. However, just applying it evenly and letting it drain, then leaving overnight? Water didn't stick to it anymore. This was just on a crappy Master Airbrush that I was willing to sacrifice; my next step will be to swap out the default needle/nozzle/etc. on my Paasche for the larger bore one and seeing if it works on that too. Also if you see one of these for less than $40 and are willing to ferry it back, I'd happily buy it from you: https://hlj.com/1-100-scale-adf-01f-falken-from-ace-combat-ban941430
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Mar 18, 2019 15:06
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 Finally got my shipment after it spent about a week in customs. Not sure what I'm going to build as my first MG, think want to save the F91 for last though.
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Mar 18, 2019 15:23
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https://twitter.com/TendouToys/status/1107576680812437504 Hell (& Heaven) yeah!
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Mar 18, 2019 19:39
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MJP posted:If you airbrush or are willing to sell to goons with airbrushes, hit up Yellow Submarine and get some of this stuff: http://www.artfun.jp/itemlist6.html Unfortunately I never got into the airbrushing habit due to a pretty terrible apartment arrangement and not being able to clear, but that looks neat. I don't live in the US though (New Zealand) so I'm not familiar with what the shipping costs would be, might add up to to more overseas?
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Mar 18, 2019 22:22
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With how Games Workshop has been trying to make some headway in the japanese market I would love to see them partner with Bandai to make some gunpla of 40K walkers. The Wraithlord, Dreadnought and Ork Deff-Dred would be so awesome with posability. Make the standard walkers in 1/144 scale and then titans and knights in 1/100 scale
Arc Hammer fucked around with this message at 00:52 on Mar 19, 2019 |
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Mar 19, 2019 00:49
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Does anyone know any good tutorials on using polystyrene sheets and shapes? I'm just starting out, pretty confident I can make a gun but also interested in blades, getting a symmetrical edge might be tricky. I'd also like to replace a gunpla's "face" which might call for fairly small detailing. Do I need particular tools for cutting them? I've started with the sheets, have a scriber but I'm not sure I can keep it tidy when I break through to the other side. For the rods I expect using clippers will warp it, not sure about a solution there.
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Mar 19, 2019 01:08
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Arcsquad12 posted:With how Games Workshop has been trying to make some headway in the japanese market I would love to see them partner with Bandai to make some gunpla of 40K walkers. The Wraithlord, Dreadnought and Ork Deff-Dred would be so awesome with posability. Make the standard walkers in 1/144 scale and then titans and knights in 1/100 scale I'm not sure if that would work well. even 1/100 scale is significantly smaller than Warhammer scale. To shrink them down to that size you'd lose a lot of the detail, and you wouldn't really be able to mold them in full color, and they wouldn't even be that posable. What I'd really like to see is 1/12th scale Space Marine model kits. Like the Stormtrooper kits they do. If made one space Marine kit they could make kits for every Chapter just by changing the colors and throwing in a different sheet of stickers. One extra sprue and they could make Librarians or Apothecaries for every chapter
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Mar 19, 2019 01:28
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Gripweed posted:I'm not sure if that would work well. even 1/100 scale is significantly smaller than Warhammer scale. To shrink them down to that size you'd lose a lot of the detail, and you wouldn't really be able to mold them in full color, and they wouldn't even be that posable. Have you seen the tanks in the Ground Battle set? Bandai can get some crazy detail in very small kits when they want to.
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Mar 19, 2019 01:55
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Arcsquad12 posted:With how Games Workshop has been trying to make some headway in the japanese market I would love to see them partner with Bandai to make some gunpla of 40K walkers. The Wraithlord, Dreadnought and Ork Deff-Dred would be so awesome with posability. Make the standard walkers in 1/144 scale and then titans and knights in 1/100 scale But then you could get a WH40k mech for less than a metric crapton of money, which is antithetical to their MO. So I’m looking to start topcoating my models, and I want to know the correct procedure going forward. Should I cut, sand and topcoat each piece individually, or should build the model first and then topcoat it in chunks?
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Mar 19, 2019 02:38
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Gann Jerrod posted:But then you could get a WH40k mech for less than a metric crapton of money, which is antithetical to their MO. It's perfectly fine to just separate the model into chunks and topcoat them.
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Mar 19, 2019 02:40
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BizarroAzrael posted:Does anyone know any good tutorials on using polystyrene sheets and shapes? I'm just starting out, pretty confident I can make a gun but also interested in blades, getting a symmetrical edge might be tricky. I'd also like to replace a gunpla's "face" which might call for fairly small detailing.              Hello and welcome, to the wonderful and entertaining world of constructing with styrene. Myself, I've dabbed in these waters only for the last 5 or 6 months but I hope to discover and develop my crude skills into more useful techniques. Allow me to show you the items I commonly use when working with plaplate A cutting mat, surprisingly, isn't where you should be doing most of the cutting. These things are designed for working with rotary cutters, nowhere near as point-sharp as an Xacto #11 or design knife. However as long as you aren't actively slicing with force, they work okay. Acrylic sheets and scrap wood blocks are where you should be cutting stuff mostly. They are cheap, sturdy and have the added advantage that you can have different shapes and angles preset to aid you in welding and carving. Use different shapes to help you cut straight and drill evenly. Xacto blade knife or an Olfa hobby knife, what the japanese call "design knifes" are your main tools here. I've discovered that getting used to a specific cutter affects how frequently you'll mess up and carve your fingers off. Get comfortable with the grip, always make sure to apply correct vertical and horizontal force away from you, never leave them loose on the table as they'll fall and chip their tip. Be smart when cutting: if carving pieces off, take small bits first, and in an orderly fashion, don't just remove material like a civil war soldier carving a wooden horse. Apply gentle pressure to score lines on the sheet which you can either snap-cut or, develop into a panel line with a chisel. Treat them like guillotines instead of "knives" and you'll avoid uneven cuts and wedge-shapes when removing material. Regular marker, can be a gundam marker even. Use these to mark where you want to remove material, either through carving or sanding. If you are looking for perfect symmetrical edges these are a must-use tool since you want to avoid oversanding or cutting one part. A nipper. Doesn't have to be $100 godhand, you can use cheaper nippers or old dulled ones for quick removal of nubs, edges and other shapes. A hobby saw. Saws are better for sawing than knifes and if you can avoid using your knives for this, you'll find that they are extremely useful cutting through several layers of plaplate of different widths. Not only that if you are modifying a snapbuilt kit and need to accurately remove material in the cleanest possible way you'll want a hobby saw and some grip system or cutting guide. Several hobby manufacturers sell these but I find them a bit pricey. Avoid using a rotary disc for sawing, as the heat generated by the dremel disc will melt and possibly warp your cutting surface. Speaking of dremel, make substantial use of the different carving rotary bits, specially if you want to remove material from hard to reach corners or places where neither a knife or drill would work. Hobby drills and a spinning vise, these things I use to perforate a large thin area that I'm later going to carve out with a knife. Different drill sizes also are necessary for handling rods, creating holes for specific metal or etched parts, and even adding details to gunbarrels and installing clear lens parts. Sanding supplies and metal files. You need coarse sandpaper to remove material in large amounts and work up to finer grits, usually #400->#800 for smoother results. When working with sandpaper realize that a flat surface is king, so either invest in premade sanding blocks or build your own using double-sided tape and scrap acrylic or wood. If you are working with curved surfaces, check out sanding sponges as they flex and allow greater coverage than 2-dimensional paper. Hobby files come in all shapes and sizes. I suggest you become familiar using the cheapes hobby files you can find, like those on a tamiya starter set. Files remove an immense amount of material, you'll have to develop a sense for this. Position your index finger ontop of your grip for greater precision. Do not zig-zag or treat the file like nail polishers, use horizontal drag force to remove material, keep pressure to a minimum. Intense practice removing v-fin nubs will eventually make perfect. When files get caked up with plastic, avoid touching them with your fingers as skin grease deteriorates their grit. Use a copper brush instead, or denim cloth if you happen to be wearing jeans. A scriber or a p-cutter according to Japan. These guys can score, create panel lines and even cut through material depending on how hard you're pressing. I never really use any force with p-cutters, I just let the cutter rest and then drag it along to help the blade remove material. Repeat as necessary. Chisels. There are all kinds of chisels. These things are a step-up from your design knife and p-cutter when creating panel line divisions. I suggest you plan ahead well on what you would like to create and then buy, because often they are way more expensive than regular cutting blades. Make sure to invest in some form of protector or cover, as their tungsten tips shatter easily if dropped on the floor. Chemical welding agent, or "glue" as people call it. Styrene welder as the name suggests melts plastic surface and makes it possible to attach another similarly treated surface which, when cured, will repolymerize into a new structure. Such as it is, you can stack several layers of plaplate ontop and weld it, creating blocks of material. Be aware of the limitations of curing times, air temperature and moisture. PS welder works OK for most plaplate, but some gunpla kits come with ABS, in which case you should consider ABS welder or cyanoacrylate glue. The proper way of welding styrene is to first clean and prepare the surface, apply the liquid and let it act for some seconds, then press both contacting surfaces and apply compressive force for over a period of time proportional to the size and area which is being welded. CA glue (cyanoacrylate) or krazy glue, gorilla glue, super bonder etc. is an instant-type adhesive with ridiculous tensile strength and not so hot shear-force strength, thus avoid using it for support structures. It is perfect for working plaplate with different materials such as photoetched parts and brass as it is a true adhesive. Despite common conception, not all instant glues are the same. Invest in one with a not-lovely dispenser. Often times the pros will use gap-filler instaglue to correct scribing mistakes and overshoots. When cured, cyanoacrilate crystalizes, which means you can sand it like any other surface. Beware the vapors it lets out when curing, which may stain other surfaces if you've previously applied paint. 2-compound epoxy putty. Not only used for filling, also for adding material. These are better than the toothpaste tube kind becaise they don't shrink once cured. The catch is you have to work fast to beat the curing process and, when sanding it, wear a mask or out in the open as breathing tiny sanded epoxy particles will give you cancer. When cutting rods and tubes, there are options. You can invest in a specialty tool like the NWSL "Chopper", or a Wave hobby USB-powered saw. While I agree that using your design knife yields imperfect results be aware that these tools are bit heavier on the investment side, so unless you plan on constantly scratchbuilding they might not be worth buying.
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Mar 19, 2019 04:08
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I was gonna write something but goddamn bookmark that last post.
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Mar 19, 2019 04:20
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Link that post in the OP, please!
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Mar 19, 2019 05:39
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Midjack posted:Link that post in the OP, please! I stuck it into the second post along with Vegeta8259's painting guide. I'm gonna be doing some streamlining of the OPs, so if anyone else has any in-depth guides I can add feel free to link them.
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Mar 19, 2019 12:30
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Merilan posted:Unfortunately I never got into the airbrushing habit due to a pretty terrible apartment arrangement and not being able to clear, but that looks neat. I don't live in the US though (New Zealand) so I'm not familiar with what the shipping costs would be, might add up to to more overseas? Yeah, it would, plus I don't know what the exact laws are for mailing liquids overseas. It's not flammable but I'm sure the respective customs agencies wouldn't care. My buddy had to bring this stuff home in carry-on baggage. I treated my backup Paasche with it overnight and promptly dropped it this morning, bending the needle, great work me, so now I gotta retreat another needle/nozzle/cap combo to see if that does it. Also I think I have the wrong needle anyway since it stuck WAY forward through the nozzle. Keep your needles organized, kids!
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Mar 19, 2019 14:46
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I think I've decided on the first kit Im going to do a full paint job on and I'm going to try to do a Thousand Sons Serpent Custom, I have no idea how badly this is going to go.
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Mar 19, 2019 15:53
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   I left out several things in that post. Mostly measuring tools, but I'd like to add that a caliper, plain and simple digital one or old fashioned is a fantastic thing to have when drilling and adding rods. It doesn't have to be some $1000 Mitutoyo caliper, you won't need hundreths-of-an-inch precision, just to make sure that 0.4 mm hole will be a good fit for your rod-reinforced 0.39 ball connection. In the obscene enthusiast view, an ultrasonic cutter blade can do the whole cutting and removing process in an instant. The catch is of course they are expensive, as in car downpayment expensive, and you pretty much are restricted to one type of use, unlike a dremel which you can use for removal, sanding, carving, buffing, etc. It's a neat thing to have but a unitasker nonetheless. Dymo tape is a thin plastic with adhesive tacked on stripe that a lot of folks use to make guides when scribing. Decades-old pros just go in and scribe panel lines freehand but if you have terrible hand pulse like me, dymo tape can help with straight lines and sharp corners. Be aware that some leave a tiny residue which will have to be sanded out. http://www.clubhyper.com/reference/rescribingda_1.htm Here's one of many pages on the subject of basic scribing. You'll soon start to notice that a lot of old fart airplane modellers pretty much make their own tools from dental equipment and other sources. I've yet to arrive at that stage but I cannot stress this enough, the importance of having the precise tool for exactly what use you need to make of it. An example of this is the old "superglue a cutter blade to scrap plaplate to have a scribing guide" for uniform detailing of borders:   
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Mar 20, 2019 03:28
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Yeah in my loving dreams. I remember there was a kickstarter for an affordable cutter but I dunno what happened with it.
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Mar 20, 2019 03:52
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Oh my, pay day cannot come fast enough. http://schizophonic9.com/re5/mg_dynames.html
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Mar 22, 2019 01:54
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Someone beat me to this idea, but it's great because I get to see what I would've missed
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Mar 22, 2019 03:18
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That rules. I love when people do remixes like that. eg Grimoire Red Beret
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Mar 22, 2019 03:26
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Does anybody have tips for dry decals? I'm putting together the MG F91 and some of them just don't want to stick
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Mar 22, 2019 03:33
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Try wiping the part with some alcohol and let it dry, there may be some residue from your fingers from handling it that may be causing them to not stick.
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Mar 22, 2019 05:58
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| # ? May 24, 2024 17:43 |
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Gripweed posted:Does anybody have tips for dry decals? I'm putting together the MG F91 and some of them just don't want to stick Buy waterslides for the kit. Dry transfers blow, and I've never had a good outcome with them.
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Mar 22, 2019 13:12
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