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The Gunslinger posted:You have to really abuse a plasma in unconventional ways to get burn in. Like leaving a static image running for 8 hours a day for every day. You can still get temporary image retention but that's easily taken care of with built in software tools. Hell many people never even notice it in the first place as normal viewing habits usually ensure you don't encounter it. Many gamers own plasmas and have no issues, just leave the pixel shuffler feature on or alternatively run the screen wipe app that most plasmas have every now and then. I'm leaning towards getting a plasma the more I look into it, so this is good to know. The only other issue I'm concerned with is screen glare. It's barely an issue on my lcd, but apparently it can be quite bad on plasmas. I really don't like sitting in a darkened room, so this is a big deal to me. Is this something I really need to be concerned about?
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| # ? Nov 10, 2025 02:19 |
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Jaaam posted:I'm leaning towards getting a plasma the more I look into it, so this is good to know. The only other issue I'm concerned with is screen glare. It's barely an issue on my lcd, but apparently it can be quite bad on plasmas. I really don't like sitting in a darkened room, so this is a big deal to me. Is this something I really need to be concerned about? No. I mean if you have super bright direct sunlight on it then, yeah. Otherwise, no.
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Jaaam posted:I'm leaning towards getting a plasma the more I look into it, so this is good to know. The only other issue I'm concerned with is screen glare. It's barely an issue on my lcd, but apparently it can be quite bad on plasmas. I really don't like sitting in a darkened room, so this is a big deal to me. Is this something I really need to be concerned about? It depends on what plasma you get, the 2010 models didn't have great anti-glare coating but the 2011 models are pretty good. I keep my blinds open sometimes and it's fine unless the sun is shining right on it or something. If you're trying to play Dark Souls at 6pm then you'll have issues but I had those same problems on my old Samsung LED with a matte screen.
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The Gunslinger posted:You have to really abuse a plasma in unconventional ways to get burn in. Like leaving a static image running for 8 hours a day for every day. You can still get temporary image retention but that's easily taken care of with built in software tools. Hell many people never even notice it in the first place as normal viewing habits usually ensure you don't encounter it. Many gamers own plasmas and have no issues, just leave the pixel shuffler feature on or alternatively run the screen wipe app that most plasmas have every now and then. And when and if you get IR it is so light it is hardly noticeable. And it goes away within a few minutes. Did a good 6 hour session of BF3 and not even 1 problem.
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Cheers, that's good to know, I'm not really able to play during daylight hours anyway. I've just about decided to get this Panasonic, but I'd love to hear any other recommendations anyone has.
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Jaaam posted:Cheers, that's good to know, I'm not really able to play during daylight hours anyway. I've just about decided to get this Panasonic, but I'd love to hear any other recommendations anyone has.
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This might be a long and rambling post but I need to get my thoughts on this subject out. In 2008, I purchased a Samsung LN-T4081F for $1300 from Abe's of Maine. It was one of the first commercially available LED-backlit LCD TVs, using a full-array of LED (none of these edge-lit shenanigans), with local-dimming. The primary purpose for the display has been movies in HD, and photo editing. The source is a desktop computer. In the time I've owned my LN-T4081F, I've moved a couple of times, rearranged rooms many times, replaced all the components of that desktop computer twice, and moved from ancient, freebie, full-cabinet 2.0 speakers to a nice 5.1 setup with a subwoofer I built myself. The only component in my entire hometheater setup that hasn't changed is the TV itself. I still love it; it works just as well as the day I received it. However, my viewing distance from it is a bit too long, and I can't move my seating forward without re-engineering the otherwise-ideal room layout. I need a bigger display. The problem is twofold: 1) I care about image quality above all else, with longevity in second place, and low-latency behind that. 2) I'm never going to use any of the following functions: motion interpolation (120/240/480Hz), TV Tuner, CableCard, Dolby Audio processing, integral speakers, analog input of any kind (composite, s-vid, component, VGA, BNC), 3D-anything, game-mode, Smart-TV functions (Hulu, YouTube, Skype), upscaling... the list goes on. The only problems I have with my current TV are: • the front face is 30+% bezel. It's the size of a modern 46" TV, seriously. • the local-dimming function has a very low number of zones (8 or 12, something like that) • the PVA panel in it has around 55-60ms latency by my estimate. I've considered getting a Samsung UN46D8000, but I feel like I'd be paying for all those features I won't be using. Also, the ultra-thin-ness of the device seems to hurt its image quality. c-net gave it a 6.0 for IQ due to unevenness; I hear that's a common problem with ultra-thin designs. I hear it has horrible latency issues which make even console gaming on it a chore. There's also the LG LW9800, which would be ideal if only they would launch the 47" model they announced. At this time, it's only available as a 55" (55LW9800) which is a bit outside my budget ($3800 or something like that). The other options I keep running past in my mind aren't TVs, but Large Format Displays (LFDs) intended for digital signage applications. The Samsung ME46A and Samsung UE46A strike my fancy. They're both PVA panels, but newer than mine, so probably slightly better latency, and no worse than anything else on the market. Both models swap out the TV Tuner in favor of a ARM A8 CPU with a GPU and a DSP, for handling 1080p H264 without an input device. They have 1 HDMI, 1 DisplayPort (never seen that on a TV before), 1 DVI, and 1 VGA for input. The UE has a quicker response time, and higher brightness (UE: 450nit, ME: 300nit). Also, they take serial input from an RS232 adapter, which can be use to operate the menus, change power state, check status, etc. It's nerdy but I could see using that. None of the LFDs have been reviewed on any site anywhere, unfortunately. The biggest advantage these panels offer is the warranty, though: 3 years on-site parts and labor from the manufacturer, which is easily worth $200+ in my eyes. Would anyone suggest any alternatives? I know Sony has some nice models in similar price ranges, some of which are even on sale right now, but I have a history of hating the hell out of Sony's documentation, support, and UI design (their menus are abysmal). Gigas-VII fucked around with this message at 18:33 on Jan 13, 2012 |
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Gigas-VII posted:
Honestly most of your desired requirements/specs are outside of what I can recommend, but I did want to correct this. The 120/240/480Hz stuff is refresh rate capabilities and is separate from that crappy "motion interpolation" a lot of modern TVs come with. It's unfortunate because a lot of the marketing wording makes them SEEM like they are one in the same. But the TVs refresh rate is actually a different function from the lovely soap opera effect interpolating gimmick that you see often.
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BonoMan posted:Honestly most of your desired requirements/specs are outside of what I can recommend, but I did want to correct this. The 120/240/480Hz stuff is refresh rate capabilities and is separate from that crappy "motion interpolation" a lot of modern TVs come with. It's unfortunate because a lot of the marketing wording makes them SEEM like they are one in the same. But the TVs refresh rate is actually a different function from the lovely soap opera effect interpolating gimmick that you see often. As I understand it, even if the panel can render at 120+Hz, the inputs won't accept a signal faster than 60Hz, on every single model I've ever seen or heard about. Even those fancy 600Hz Plasma units won't take a 120Hz signal. Seems to me that 120+Hz can't be used even if your source can output it, so the only benefit it has is for interpolation... please correct me if I'm mistaken. I know that HDMI 1.4a doesn't support 120Hz, but DVI, VGA, and DisplayPort all do. edit: wait, I just thought about the use of 120Hz in rendering interlaced video without during a pulldown detection + deinterlace. So maybe there's that. But honestly, since I'm using a PC as the source, I'm handling all format conversion on a CPU+GPU, the TV would never see anything but 1080p60Hz on the line. Gigas-VII fucked around with this message at 18:48 on Jan 13, 2012 |
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Gigas-VII posted:As I understand it, even if the panel can render at 120+Hz, the inputs won't accept a signal faster than 60Hz, on every single model I've ever seen or heard about. Even those fancy 600Hz Plasma units won't take a 120Hz signal. Seems to me that 120+Hz can't be used even if your source can output it, so the only benefit it has is for interpolation... please correct me if I'm mistaken. The benefit even if it can't accept a 120hz input is that it can display 1080p24 without 3:2 pulldown.
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Gigas-VII posted:As I understand it, even if the panel can render at 120+Hz, the inputs won't accept a signal faster than 60Hz, on every single model I've ever seen or heard about. Even those fancy 600Hz Plasma units won't take a 120Hz signal. Seems to me that 120+Hz can't be used even if your source can output it, so the only benefit it has is for interpolation... please correct me if I'm mistaken. If you have 120/240/480hz you would be better to send the tv a 1080p24hz (on a 24fps movie) signal and let the tv do 5:5 pulldown.
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evilalien posted:The benefit even if it can't accept a 120hz input is that it can display 1080p24 without 3:2 pulldown. Yeah, that's exactly what I was thinking about, you just beat me to it ![]() That might be handy, I dunno. 3:2 pulldown has been my only option for so long, I haven't really considered the alternative. This is a valid part of 'image quality', but not one I had considered initially. I was thinking about still-frame IQ, or 60Hz IQ. Now you've got me thinking that a 120Hz panel might actually be a good idea. The UE46A has a 120Hz panel, now I'm leaning even harder toward that... drat it, $700 is such a huge difference for a semi-usable doubled signaling rate. EDIT: am I crazy for even considering a business-grade device here? I mean, I could get a 55" or larger TV if I sacrifice quality. A 55" unit wouldn't fit in the space I have, but would probably be a better value. I dunno, I just don't want to settle for something I'll come to hate. I've been so pleased with my current TV and I want that trend to continue. Gigas-VII fucked around with this message at 18:59 on Jan 13, 2012 |
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I'm shopping for a new TV that will be used primarily for gaming. I'm looking at around 30 inches. The room that I will be in is fairly shaddy to begin with so I'm not too worried about glare issues. The more I start reading online the more confused about the whole thing I get. I am hoping to stay under $300. Any recommendations on some bargains? I found a Toshiba on sale at Bestbuy Then Walmart has these Scepter brand TVs on sale but I have never heard of this brand. I am guessing it is their in-house brand?http://www.walmart.com/ip/Sceptre-32-X322BV-HD/15739136 Walmart also has a Sony KDL-32BX310 but you need to add it to your cart before you see the price. When I did that it was listed at $299. Thanks for any input.
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Element is Wal-Mart's house brand. Sceptre has been around for a while and is an OK off-brand. Still, can't go wrong with a Sony I'd imagine.
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Any recommendations for "most bang for the buck" soundbar systems ~$250 range?
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madkapitolist posted:Any recommendations for "most bang for the buck" soundbar systems ~$250 range? I have two of Sony's soundbar systems and they're pretty good.
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So I got my new Panasonic P50GT30 and the screen is absolutely amazing. I'm really pleased with the buy, but I've noticed that during some scenes the brightness levels visibly shift slightly up and down. It's especially noticeable on the darker areas of the screen. Is this the dreaded fluctuating brightness problem? Is there a known solution?
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Jimlad posted:So I got my new Panasonic P50GT30 and the screen is absolutely amazing. I'm really pleased with the buy, but I've noticed that during some scenes the brightness levels visibly shift slightly up and down. It's especially noticeable on the darker areas of the screen. Is this the dreaded fluctuating brightness problem? Is there a known solution? Do it sooner rather than later because the part may be back ordered as was in my case. After a tech fixed mine it has been flawless. I have not seen the brightness shift once since it was done.
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Capnbigboobies posted:If you have CATS off and the tv was made before August then yes you have the FB problem. Fear not, it's an easy fix. Call Panasonic concierge and say you have the fb issue and they will send a tech out to fix it. All right... it just seems odd since I ordered this TV off Amazon just before the new year. Is it even possible they'd keep stock that long, or is it just that the fbr issue hasn't been fixed in production models and they're hoping people simply don't notice?
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Jimlad posted:All right... it just seems odd since I ordered this TV off Amazon just before the new year. Is it even possible they'd keep stock that long, or is it just that the fbr issue hasn't been fixed in production models and they're hoping people simply don't notice? It's quite possible to get old stock even now, I got my set locally and it's build date was April 3 2011. The FBR update is a really easy thing so don't worry about it.
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Any particular reason not to pick up this Westinghouse that Target has on sale for $349.99? http://www.target.com/p/Westinghouse-40-Class-1080p-120hz-LED-LCD-HDTV-Black-LD-4055/-/A-13676291?reco=Rec|pdp|13676291|ClickCP|item_page.adjacency&lnk=Rec|pdp|13676291|ClickCP|item_page.adjacency I know Westinghouse isnt the best brand, but it seems like a pretty good bang for the buck. I can't find any reviews for this particular model to sway me one way or the other. It would be used for PS3 gaming, a lot of Netflix streaming, and general movie use. BluRays might be nice, but I doubt we'll build a big library of those, and we don't have or plan on using Cable.
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So I got my parents a 37" Vizio for Christmas, and Smooth Motion is being a pain in the rear end. Sometimes we can see its effect even when it's turned off. I can disable it by toggling Fast Response on or off, or by resetting Picture to defaults. But it seems to randomly come on again depending on what we're watching. It made a DVD of an old black and white movie look like it was shot on video instead of film. I chatted with Vizio support and they said it has to do with the 120Hz refresh rate of the TV Vizio support posted:Lyle: Thank you for contacting VIZIO Live Chat, the home of Entertainment Freedom for All. This is Lyle in South Dakota. Have you ever contacted us before? Am I wrong to suspect he was bullshitting me?
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Lovie Unsmith posted:So I got my parents a 37" Vizio for Christmas, and Smooth Motion is being a pain in the rear end. Sometimes we can see its effect even when it's turned off. I can disable it by toggling Fast Response on or off, or by resetting Picture to defaults. But it seems to randomly come on again depending on what we're watching. It made a DVD of an old black and white movie look like it was shot on video instead of film. It is certainly possible you cannot fully disable smooth motion. It has nothing to do with 120hz.
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I am just wondering if it is still redundant to get a 1080p screen below 45 inches. It says that in the first post, but it is fairly old, 5 years or so. I am looking into a 42 inch plasma and wondering if I should go 760p or 1080p, not interested in getting 3d. Would there be much difference, say in these plasma tvs? http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Panasonic+-+42%22+Class+/+Plasma+/+1080p+/+600Hz+/+HDTV/2120195.p?id=1218319596899&skuId=2120195 and http://www.bestbuy.com/site/RCA+-+42%22+Class+/+Plasma+/+720p+/+600Hz+/+HDTV/2343493.p?id=1218321952503&skuId=2343493 or http://www.samsclub.com/sams/shop/product.jsp?productId=prod2800895&navAction=push If it will make a significant difference I would be willing to shell out a bit extra but otherwise not.
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Don Lapre posted:It is certainly possible you cannot fully disable smooth motion. Well that's discouraging. On my TV (not a Vizio) if I turn it off, it stays off. Don Lapre posted:It has nothing to do with 120hz. Maybe I need clarification then? My understanding was that the TV is really at 60Hz, and SmoothMotion/TruMotion/VividMotion/etc. simulate the effect of 120Hz?
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Lovie Unsmith posted:Maybe I need clarification then? My understanding was that the TV is really at 60Hz, and SmoothMotion/TruMotion/VividMotion/etc. simulate the effect of 120Hz?
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dy. posted:Your TV is in fact running at 120Hz, but the signal it gets is only 60Hz. The SmoothMotion/etc effect is when it takes that 60Hz signal and tries to interpolate frames to make it 120Hz - essentially it is creating an extra frame from the two surrounding it. I'm still mystified as to who thinks this looks good. This being the HDTV Megathread, I have NO doubt that this argument has been brought up multiple times, so I won't further it beyond asking if anyone has a link or something that explains the reasoning behind this. I'm not being sarcastic, I genuinely want to read more about this new fad of smoothing out the tv's output, so as to give everything more frames. I haven't met anyone who actually prefers it. It's odd, since you'd think 'the more, the better!', but give me my 24/29.97 fps anyday.
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Rupert Buttermilk posted:I'm still mystified as to who thinks this looks good. This being the HDTV Megathread, I have NO doubt that this argument has been brought up multiple times, so I won't further it beyond asking if anyone has a link or something that explains the reasoning behind this. I'm not being sarcastic, I genuinely want to read more about this new fad of smoothing out the tv's output, so as to give everything more frames. I haven't met anyone who actually prefers it. It tends to completely destroy any kind of dramatic effect due to the unnatural appearance of movement, but that doesn't really come into play with sports.
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Yeah, I like it on my Hannspree for sports to smooth out the fast motion blur. I also like that if I turn it off it stays off. I have yet to try it with a Blu-Ray.
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I guess I overlooked sports because I don't watch any, so that's definitely fair.
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I'm looking for some advice as to what I should be looking for in a TV if I am only going to use it for watching sports. I would like to stay under $500 and for size I am looking for around 32" although this seemed like a pretty good deal. Are there any brands that are highly recommended or that I should avoid?
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Does anyone in this thread have experience with the Samsung UE40D5000? It has a glowing review here but I'm seeing some reports of severe motion blur on the AVS and AV Forums. It'll be hooked up to my PC 24/7 and used for HD Movies/Gaming. If anyone has a better recommendation I'm all ears too.
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Rupert Buttermilk posted:I'm still mystified as to who thinks this looks good. This being the HDTV Megathread, I have NO doubt that this argument has been brought up multiple times, so I won't further it beyond asking if anyone has a link or something that explains the reasoning behind this. I'm not being sarcastic, I genuinely want to read more about this new fad of smoothing out the tv's output, so as to give everything more frames. I haven't met anyone who actually prefers it. I'm in the minority, though, of people who actually use it during everyday TV watching. The trick is to find a set which lets you customize the de-judder:de-blur ratio to make the effect more subtle and useful. I found on my LG 55" LED-LCD (since returned for other reasons) that setting the de-judder to about 20-25% and and de-blur to around 80% generally provided smooth, lifelike motion. It wasn't flawless and occasionally suffered from some jerkiness, and had a hard time dealing with transparent broadcaster logos in the corner of the screen, but I could leave it on most any 30fps material and not be distracted. I figure 30fps video is intended to look more "real" anyway, compared to film, so I'm not jarred by increased realism in the motion. With toned-down settings it doesn't seem "soap opera-y" to me. Definitely don't use it for 24fps film content.
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I just got a Samsung UN46D8000. What's the best way to adjust the picture settings? I'm having a hard time settling on a configuration.
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Before I decide to keep my ST30, do I have any options under $1300 for a nice quality 55"+ tv with extremely minimal lag/response times and no forced motion smoothing? The current quality standard for a tv is slightly depressing. Prices are low but I've yet to find many standouts. I can't wait to see what apple comes out with, assuming their tv rumors are true.
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Just wanted to say that based on this thread's advice, I'm the proud new owner of a Panasonic p55st30. I absolutely love it and am blown away by the picture quality. Thanks!
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fake posted:I just got a Samsung UN46D8000. What's the best way to adjust the picture settings? I'm having a hard time settling on a configuration. I usually go to the AVS forums and get settings from there. You can usually find at least one person there that has your TV and set his with calibration equipment.
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Just grabbed this tv from walmart http://www.vizio.com/vl370m.html and am totally satisfied. Quality is fantastic and it works greats as a PC monitor as well. If anyone is looking for a good TV without dropping 1k I'd suggest this or the 42" variation. Have had a couple of Vizio TVs now and compared to other brands I've owned, and really just on its own in general, they never let me down. Grabbed a Vizio wifi capable Blu-Ray player with it and other than the fact that the advertised Blockbuster online coupons/deal no longer exists also has met all expectations. I love Vizio. Mosaic Perception fucked around with this message at 06:07 on Jan 23, 2012 |
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fake posted:I just got a Samsung UN46D8000. What's the best way to adjust the picture settings? I'm having a hard time settling on a configuration. I'm picking up the 55" version of this today on Amazon. v vAnything in particular I should look for in a wall mount? As far as I know, I just need up to a 15' tilt. Amazon seems loaded with $20-30 mounts that pretty much all look the same.
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| # ? Nov 10, 2025 02:19 |
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Is plasma still the best picture out there for your dollar? I have a 50" 720p Panasonic plasma now that I'm still happy with but i started to use my htpc more and the whole 720p thing is really starting to get to me.
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