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Shnooks
Mar 24, 2007

I'M BEING BORN D:


Rufus En Fuego posted:

Butterick and McCall's are on sale for $1.99 online, and Vogue's $3.99. Limit 10 per customer.

Further discount if you're a member of Club BMV.

No. Please stop :(

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Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May


Comrade Quack posted:

I'm helping clean out my grandmas house after her death. I'm thinking about trying to sell a bunch of sewing stuff from the 70s. Anyone interested?


Whaddya got?

Reverend Cheddar
Nov 6, 2005

wriggle cat is happy


Rufus En Fuego posted:

Butterick and McCall's are on sale for $1.99 online, and Vogue's $3.99. Limit 10 per customer.

Further discount if you're a member of Club BMV.

Noooo I'm broke don't tell me things like this :cry:

Comrade Quack
Jun 6, 2006
Witty closing remarks have been replaced by massive head trauma and general stupidity.

Stultus Maximus posted:

Whaddya got?

A fuckton of polyester ranging from remnants to several yards. A bunch of corduroy that I'm not allowed to have yet. About 5-7 lbs of buttons still on their cards (many duplicates) and a bunch of patterns from the 70s that work out to small current sizes.

So nothing too great.

Bees on Wheat
Jul 18, 2007

I've never been happy



QUAIL DIVISION


Buglord

I'm working on my first quilt ever, and I like sewing clothing so the fabric and buttons are tempting. I don't know how much money I could give you for it, but post pics anyway! If I don't snag it, somebody else will.

Here's a portion of the quilt I'm working on. I cut a ton of 5x5" squares out of whatever fabrics were around, sewed them into strips, then sewed the strips together. Right now it's 4x16 squares, but the monotony is killing me. I have new fabrics and want more variety in there, so I may take some of the seams out and sew the strips in different orders.



And somehow, half of my squares don't line up when I sew the strips together, but all the strips are the same length so it's okay by me. :downs:

I'm actually very proud of how many different sources the fabrics came from. There are some remnants from my old sewing projects, some from a friend who does SCA garb, some polyester "brocade" from my little sister, old pajama pants, and trim from a scrapbooking calendar in there. Some of the other fabrics I'll be adding in are old bedsheets and the excess fabric from some Ikea curtains I just hemmed. Maybe even a pillowcase that matches the bedspread it's sitting on..

(Edit for picture of quilt-in-progress)

Bees on Wheat fucked around with this message at 08:00 on Apr 24, 2012

Smeef
Aug 15, 2003

I posted my food for USPOL Thanksgiving!





Pillbug

I picked up some nice 100% cotton fabrics, but they're a little too rough for clothing right now.

Any tips for softening them? It's fabric by the meter, so I'm not sure if machine washing it would tear it up or not. I've read that baking soda and vinegar can be used as substitutes for fabric softener, but which is more effective? I want to make the fabrics as soft as possible, so environmental concerns on a small project like this aren't going to bother me.

Also, what's the most effective way to pre-shrink fabric prior to sewing? I made a shirt before and soaked the fabric (100% cotton) in water for a few hours before hanging dry in the sun. The finished shirt still shrank considerably after the first wash.

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May


Smeef posted:

I picked up some nice 100% cotton fabrics, but they're a little too rough for clothing right now.

Any tips for softening them? It's fabric by the meter, so I'm not sure if machine washing it would tear it up or not. I've read that baking soda and vinegar can be used as substitutes for fabric softener, but which is more effective? I want to make the fabrics as soft as possible, so environmental concerns on a small project like this aren't going to bother me.

Also, what's the most effective way to pre-shrink fabric prior to sewing? I made a shirt before and soaked the fabric (100% cotton) in water for a few hours before hanging dry in the sun. The finished shirt still shrank considerably after the first wash.

100% cotton should be fine in a washing machine. Also, washing AND drying 100% cotton in hot water/high drying heat will pre-shrink it as much as you can do. It may still shrink after that, but that's cotton for you.

Not baking soda but washing soda is what you want to put in. It's a water softener. Washing soda in the soak/wash cycle and vinegar in the rinse is what I do.

Smeef
Aug 15, 2003

I posted my food for USPOL Thanksgiving!





Pillbug

Stultus Maximus posted:

100% cotton should be fine in a washing machine. Also, washing AND drying 100% cotton in hot water/high drying heat will pre-shrink it as much as you can do. It may still shrink after that, but that's cotton for you.

Not baking soda but washing soda is what you want to put in. It's a water softener. Washing soda in the soak/wash cycle and vinegar in the rinse is what I do.

Any way to do this with a front-loading machine?

Comrade Quack
Jun 6, 2006
Witty closing remarks have been replaced by massive head trauma and general stupidity.

Smeef posted:

Any way to do this with a front-loading machine?

The only way I could think to do it on my machine would be to run a wash cycle let it finish then run a rinse only cycle.

Smeef
Aug 15, 2003

I posted my food for USPOL Thanksgiving!





Pillbug

Oh, duh. Thanks. Will let you know how it turns out.

Nione
Jun 3, 2006

Welcome to Trophy Island
Rub my tummy


So, I'm going to be starting a flapper costume pretty soon and needed some advice. I can't seem to find a pattern for one (even though ALL of the major brands USED to have flapper dress patterns, now the only way to get them is to pay $20 on ebay or something!). I have sewn things without patterns before (mostly skirts and pillows), so I SHOULD be able to figure out a very simple sheath dress like I want. My question is on the neckline. I want either straight across with straps or v-neck. The straight across with straps would be easiest, because it's literally a tube from my neckline to my hips. However, I have wide hips, my shoulders and waist are my narrowest parts. I want the waistline to fall at my hips and then I'm doing a slightly wider/flared skirt covered in peacock feathers and beaded fringe. If I make the tube my boob width at the top and then flare out to my hip width at the bottom, is that going to look ridiculous? Should I try and add darts? The ideal situation would be to have it be large enough that it slips over my head without a zipper. Do I need to just buy some white muslin, give it a shot, and see what it looks like?

For my fabric, I was hoping to make the top part sheer or chiffon. (I'll wear a slip or something underneath) I've never sewn with sheer fabric before, do I need special needles or something? Also, when it comes to hemming the neckline/finishing seams, what do I need to know so it doesn't look like crap? (My seams are traditionally terrible unless something is lined!) Oh, and my sewing machine doesn't do zigzag stitch, will a straight stitch be okay for lightweight fabrics like that?

Finally, any good resources for either hand embroidery/beading or a place where you can have appliques made to your specification? I want peacock feathers embroidered/beaded around the neckline to go along with the feathers I'm using as fringe on the bottom of the dress.

Reverend Cheddar
Nov 6, 2005

wriggle cat is happy


Nione posted:

So, I'm going to be starting a flapper costume pretty soon and needed some advice. I can't seem to find a pattern for one (even though ALL of the major brands USED to have flapper dress patterns, now the only way to get them is to pay $20 on ebay or something!). I have sewn things without patterns before (mostly skirts and pillows), so I SHOULD be able to figure out a very simple sheath dress like I want. My question is on the neckline. I want either straight across with straps or v-neck. The straight across with straps would be easiest, because it's literally a tube from my neckline to my hips. However, I have wide hips, my shoulders and waist are my narrowest parts. I want the waistline to fall at my hips and then I'm doing a slightly wider/flared skirt covered in peacock feathers and beaded fringe. If I make the tube my boob width at the top and then flare out to my hip width at the bottom, is that going to look ridiculous? Should I try and add darts? The ideal situation would be to have it be large enough that it slips over my head without a zipper. Do I need to just buy some white muslin, give it a shot, and see what it looks like?

For my fabric, I was hoping to make the top part sheer or chiffon. (I'll wear a slip or something underneath) I've never sewn with sheer fabric before, do I need special needles or something? Also, when it comes to hemming the neckline/finishing seams, what do I need to know so it doesn't look like crap? (My seams are traditionally terrible unless something is lined!) Oh, and my sewing machine doesn't do zigzag stitch, will a straight stitch be okay for lightweight fabrics like that?

Finally, any good resources for either hand embroidery/beading or a place where you can have appliques made to your specification? I want peacock feathers embroidered/beaded around the neckline to go along with the feathers I'm using as fringe on the bottom of the dress.

Ooookay bit of a tall order here. If you want it to slip over your head but not have a zipper and not be stretch, you can do it if you go for an a-line or trapeze line as long as its not super flared. My gut is telling me that with your proportions a 'normal' flapper dress is just gonna be odd. And just as a rule, unless you're as flat as Robin the Boy Wonder, you need darts. Us women are curvy.

For your finishes, since you want sheer/chiffon I will advise against facings and recommend a veeeery thin bias strip instead for those spots. I know they'll be a bitch to sew but the facings will definitely show otherwise. Use the smallest size needle possible. Straight seams will be okay, just be very careful. The one good thing about sheer fabric is that you have leeway to cheat a little on the seam finishes: sew on the selvedges about 2mm away from your seam, another one 2mm from that, then cut off the excess.

Appliqués though, I dunno. :(

Nione
Jun 3, 2006

Welcome to Trophy Island
Rub my tummy


Reverend Cheddar posted:

Ooookay bit of a tall order here. If you want it to slip over your head but not have a zipper and not be stretch, you can do it if you go for an a-line or trapeze line as long as its not super flared. My gut is telling me that with your proportions a 'normal' flapper dress is just gonna be odd. And just as a rule, unless you're as flat as Robin the Boy Wonder, you need darts. Us women are curvy.

For your finishes, since you want sheer/chiffon I will advise against facings and recommend a veeeery thin bias strip instead for those spots. I know they'll be a bitch to sew but the facings will definitely show otherwise. Use the smallest size needle possible. Straight seams will be okay, just be very careful. The one good thing about sheer fabric is that you have leeway to cheat a little on the seam finishes: sew on the selvedges about 2mm away from your seam, another one 2mm from that, then cut off the excess.

Appliqués though, I dunno. :(

Well, it seems like my boss both has a serger AND is willing to sew a zipper in for me. Is there a good place to go to figure out darts? I've never done them without a pattern. And yes, unfortunately I'm not built like a flapper, I have curves.

Rufus En Fuego
Oct 19, 2011

HOUSE BARK

"Winter is Potato"

I believe I have Simplicity 5400 at home and I'm willing to send it to you if you think it's going to help (which is sounds like it just might). It has darts at the bust and it's a v-neck.

Chiffon, though...I don't think it's going to stand up to the beading you describe. You'll be better off with a netting or tulle, or even a hardy lace. Chiffon will likely shred to poo poo and all your beads will fall off, not to mention it'll show every little pucker if you don't keep your tension perfect.

Nione
Jun 3, 2006

Welcome to Trophy Island
Rub my tummy


Ok, so this is what I'm going for... http://www.bluevelvetvintage.com/20s-vintage-beaded-black-chiffon-and-lace-flapper-dress.html

Now, when I look at that I don't see any darts. It's got Bust: 36", Waist: 36", Hips: 40". I take that to mean it is very slightly a-line. If you were going to put in darts, would you do them under the arms? I think I could handle under arm darts if I draw it all out carefully like I'm doing a pattern, I was just hoping for a guideline like 'waist measurement = X, bust measurement = Y, do this to find out the amount your darts need to take in.'

I'm thinking now of just not doing any really detailed beading on the bodice and only doing a little around the neckline, using beaded trims. The sheer chiffon should stand up to a beaded trim on a ribbon backing, yes? The skirt I'm doing in beaded fringe and peacock feathers.

HeatherChandler
Jun 21, 2007

Is this turnout weak or what? I had at least 70 more people at my funeral.

I don't sew, so this is a really dumb question, and Google surprisingly didn't have an answer for me. I bet people who make clothes will know!

I have one of those convertible bridesmaids dresses (a circle skirt with long straps that you can wrap however you want) and I need to cut the straps shorter (tying them around my waist again and again is certainly not flattering). The material isn't hemmed and isn't frayed. I think it is a stretch matte jersey(?). I looked at it up close and it is definitely knit, not woven.

So, do I just cut and it won't fray or do I need to like tear it or anything special? Will using lovely scissors matter?

Charmmi
Dec 8, 2008

:trophystare:


Those dresses are typically made with 4 way stretch jersey. If you use the sharpest scissors you can find I bet it won't fray at all. Be conservative with your trimming though, it's not gonna grow back if you chop it too short.

HeatherChandler
Jun 21, 2007

Is this turnout weak or what? I had at least 70 more people at my funeral.

Charmmi posted:

Those dresses are typically made with 4 way stretch jersey. If you use the sharpest scissors you can find I bet it won't fray at all. Be conservative with your trimming though, it's not gonna grow back if you chop it too short.

Thank you! I assumed as much, but you know what they say about assume. Honestly I don't want to cut it at all, but it doesn't fit right and wrapping it accentuates that.

Silver Alicorn
Mar 30, 2008

The Game is Never Over


Well I finished another project:



Gold lame stretchy skirt, made it in size 6 for a friend. I used a machine this time, so I did french seams and it's actually a pretty awesome job. Not visible is the center back seam and slit.

I got the fabric on Etsy a while back, it's actually vintage from the '80s. :stare: I have enough to make two more, and I've been wanting to start an Etsy store for years now. I think I may have found my niche, or at least a great starting point. Omg.

edit: heh those creases aren't as visible in real life, at least the material doesn't take too badly to some light ironing.

Silver Alicorn fucked around with this message at 09:31 on Apr 28, 2012

Goldaline
Dec 20, 2006

my dear

I keep forgetting about this thread! And then I have a million projects to update ya'll on.

Finished up Row A and B from my Dear Jane, I'm actually up to C-7 now. Shooting for the most obnoxious use of color in a Dear Jane ever. Can't decide on a sashing color though.

Finished up a bed quilt to cover up a really ratty comforter.

Almost done this wool cutwork skirt. Still needs a closure.

Made myself a new backpack. Next time I'll do adjustable straps, it's a little awkward.

Figured out how to make a wing collar! Going to make another shirt with one, the shirt itself didn't come out so great.

And I figured out how to do a double sided patchwork braid (that's two sides of the same strip) I'm going to make a whole coat out of 'em, right now I'm in the process of dying lots of silk and cutting about a million little pieces.

Reverend Cheddar
Nov 6, 2005

wriggle cat is happy


Goldaline posted:

wing collar

I love that idea. And the inherent pun. :golfclap:

TheNothingNew
Nov 10, 2008


Goldaline posted:



Made myself a new backpack. Next time I'll do adjustable straps, it's a little awkward.


Nicely done. Could I get a close-up on or an explanation of the closure? Looks neat, but I cannot quite figure it out.

Silver Alicorn
Mar 30, 2008

The Game is Never Over


Goldaline posted:


Made myself a new backpack. Next time I'll do adjustable straps, it's a little awkward.

It took me a few takes to realize that's made of upholstery fabric, and that is incredibly awesome. Is that just a double-ring cinch closure?

Goldaline
Dec 20, 2006

my dear


I don't know if this helps, but yeah, it's a drawstring top and then just a double ring closure. I would have done a snap or something, but I didn't have any at hand.
And it's totally upholstery fabric, because that is cheap at the thrift store. I think the total cost was $6.

HardCorey
Jan 11, 2010


speaking up for the non-fashion-school apparel sewers... i'm sure many of you are familiar with collette patterns' sorbetto top (http://www.coletterie.com/colette-patterns-news/free-pattern-to-download-the-sorbetto-top), but if there any novices looking for an easy project i would suggest this one. no fasteners, bias finish, super quick. if you are a little bit creative, this top is endlessly alterable for a moderate sewer, and i have several other versions i'd like to make. i made the version suggested, and the hardest part was tracking down 100% cotton swiss dot.

please excuse my sloppy ironing and self-portrait mirror shot:


detail of the bias finish:


this was my second time doing interlining and first time doing bias-bound seams, so its a little bulky, but it lays flat enough, i'm happy.

Queen Elizatits
May 3, 2005

Haven't you heard?
MARATHONS ARE HARD

Hi friends, I am about to start sewing for the first time in my life and I am pretty excited! Patterns are confusing the heck out of me though could someone explain this to me please:



I'm not making this particular pattern I just grabbed it as an example. What do the 45" and the 60" refer to?

Blakles
Mar 10, 2008

I have lived a great deal among grown-ups. I have seen them intimately, close at hand. And that hasnt much improved my opinion of them.

Queen Elizatits posted:

Hi friends, I am about to start sewing for the first time in my life and I am pretty excited! Patterns are confusing the heck out of me though could someone explain this to me please:



I'm not making this particular pattern I just grabbed it as an example. What do the 45" and the 60" refer to?
The 45" and 60" are referring to the width of the fabric. When you go to a fabric store you will be able to pick a fabric that is 45" or 60" in width (there are some other less common sizes). Since a piece of fabric that is 60" wide is more than 45" you need less fabric to complete the project.

So this chart is telling you that if you want to make the classic shirt, and choose a 45" fabric, you need 2-2 1/2 yards cut. If you want to make that same classic shirt and choose a 60" fabric, you only need to ask for 1 3/4 yards to be cut.

Eden
Jul 1, 2007
One hella classy dinosaur

I feel a bit ashamed posting this so soon after goldaline but phew, my first non-cushion project is finally done! I made pyjama pants which I screwed up multiple times in such stupid ways. I went by one of those tutorials that gets you to use a pair of your pants to make a pattern. I still managed to make them stupidly huge (but that's ok, I like baggy pyjamas). I also ended up making the crotch waay too short. Following much aggravation about messing up such a simple project, I inserted a gusset and got a good lesson out of it!

Anyway, my mum wants some of her own now. She lives in another state so I can't mess around fixing them up etc so I was thinking of using this pattern: http://www.simplicity.com/t-sewing-101-part4.aspx. Does that look ok enough?

Silver Alicorn
Mar 30, 2008

The Game is Never Over


I've looked it over a few times now and that's actually a real nice pattern for free. The different sizes should be pretty handy on their own. Looks simple enough to make variations on easily enough too.

deadlysweet
Nov 30, 2011


Not sure if this is the appropriate thread for my projects as I usually post in the Plush section.

I just started working with applique/embroidery on hoops but the fabric always slides! Any tips?!

Here's my first completed piece:

20th Anniversary Kirby Embroidery Hoop by Deadly Sweet by deadly_sweet, on Flickr

Relativistic
Mar 26, 2003

by Y Kant Ozma Post


deadlysweet posted:


I just started working with applique/embroidery on hoops but the fabric always slides! Any tips?!



I love your Kirby! I'm not sure if this would work, but maybe try some of that rubber matting that's made to prevent rugs from slipping between the fabric and the hoop? Or check to see if a water-soluble glue will wash out well on your particular fabrics.

Shnooks
Mar 24, 2007

I'M BEING BORN D:


So, I've been working on this dress for a bit now and it's gone swimmingly until now :|

I started working on the collar and I have no clue what the hell to do. I've tried to do it like 3 or 4 times in multiple different ways and I still can't figure out what I'm doing. I took some photographs of the instructions...




Maybe I did this wrong. I have one side of the collar band unpressed and stitched, and I have no clue how to sew it on. I tried making it fit but it was too small and I couldn't even squeeze it on. When I managed to, it left the raw edge of the collar band exposed. I looked up how to do collar stands and it's like this pattern was trying to do that and failed.

This is what I have right now.

.

Help?

Reverend Cheddar
Nov 6, 2005

wriggle cat is happy


I hate English patterns. The wording is so drat confusing. If I buy a store bought pattern I almost just throw out the instructions cause I know what I'm doing. :p

Anyway, I will tell you what to do and why.

1. Baste yoke and shirt together. It's keeping the edges straight for ya.
2. Sew the collar, but NOT the bottom; leave that open cause you have to turn it inside out and sew the band on. Clip the corners to help get a nice peak when you finally turn it right side out (or use my cheat code which I've posted before)
3. Whichever is the inside band part, iron up the side which you sew onto the shirt. The pattern says to trim it down; I usually don't. The reason we do this will become clear in a bit.
4. Now match the collar band to the collar -- the shorter side will be what you sew onto the collar. At this point the COLLAR is right side out, the BAND is wrong side out. Now you sew the band together -- sewing through the collar, yes -- and just like you did with the collar, leave the bottom edge open. Now once you have done that, turn the band inside out, iron it. If you did it right, your inner band's selvage should be turned INSIDE the band, and the outside edge will still be free.
5. Sew together the outside band to BOTH yoke and shirt. Don't sew the inside band, JUST the outside.
6. If you want to hand stitch this last part, go ahead, but I am very lazy and I just go for the machine finish. This is also why I don't cut down my seam allowance: because I can use the folded edge of the inside band to match with the selvage edge of the shirt and yoke. Once you do that, sew a couple mm away from the edge of the band, then sew inside that about 5mm, like on a dress shirt.

If you have any more questions just ask!

Shnooks
Mar 24, 2007

I'M BEING BORN D:


Reverend Cheddar posted:

I hate English patterns. The wording is so drat confusing. If I buy a store bought pattern I almost just throw out the instructions cause I know what I'm doing. :p

Anyway, I will tell you what to do and why.

1. Baste yoke and shirt together. It's keeping the edges straight for ya.
2. Sew the collar, but NOT the bottom; leave that open cause you have to turn it inside out and sew the band on. Clip the corners to help get a nice peak when you finally turn it right side out (or use my cheat code which I've posted before)
3. Whichever is the inside band part, iron up the side which you sew onto the shirt. The pattern says to trim it down; I usually don't. The reason we do this will become clear in a bit.
4. Now match the collar band to the collar -- the shorter side will be what you sew onto the collar. At this point the COLLAR is right side out, the BAND is wrong side out. Now you sew the band together -- sewing through the collar, yes -- and just like you did with the collar, leave the bottom edge open. Now once you have done that, turn the band inside out, iron it. If you did it right, your inner band's selvage should be turned INSIDE the band, and the outside edge will still be free.
5. Sew together the outside band to BOTH yoke and shirt. Don't sew the inside band, JUST the outside.
6. If you want to hand stitch this last part, go ahead, but I am very lazy and I just go for the machine finish. This is also why I don't cut down my seam allowance: because I can use the folded edge of the inside band to match with the selvage edge of the shirt and yoke. Once you do that, sew a couple mm away from the edge of the band, then sew inside that about 5mm, like on a dress shirt.

If you have any more questions just ask!

I'll try this tomorrow. I was going to message you on Facebook but figured I'd just ask here :v:. Sometimes I feel like sewing patterns are written in another language, and I'm pretty good at deciphering that stuff (I'm fluent in knitting and crochet :v:)

Reverend Cheddar
Nov 6, 2005

wriggle cat is happy


Shnooks posted:

I'll try this tomorrow. I was going to message you on Facebook but figured I'd just ask here :v:. Sometimes I feel like sewing patterns are written in another language, and I'm pretty good at deciphering that stuff (I'm fluent in knitting and crochet :v:)

And I'm the opposite! I can't read needlework patterns. Like wth is k1p1stsk272729p18367:@29 AUUGH.

(on another note I am totally immature cause seeing 'pagina' on those patterns makes me snort with laughter. Hoo boy)

handbags at dawn
Mar 8, 2007

by T. Finninho


There's a needlework thread in DIY, but if your fabric is slipping in an embroidery hoop there are two common reasons: your fabric is too small or your hoop is not tight enough.

Marius Pontmercy
Apr 2, 2007

Liberte
Egalite
Beyonce


deadlysweet posted:

Not sure if this is the appropriate thread for my projects as I usually post in the Plush section.

I just started working with applique/embroidery on hoops but the fabric always slides! Any tips?!


Adorable work!

I've done very little needlework, but I hand-quilt a while bunch. My hand-quilting hoop has this tongue-and-groove thing that works so well, but I don't think you can get that in smaller sizes for embroidery hoops. Before I dropped like $20 for that hoop though, I had a cheaper wood one that I had a model-airplane rubberband wrapped around the inner hoop of, and for smaller hoops it's probably a lot more feasible.

Shnooks
Mar 24, 2007

I'M BEING BORN D:


handbags at dawn posted:

There's a needlework thread in DIY, but if your fabric is slipping in an embroidery hoop there are two common reasons: your fabric is too small or your hoop is not tight enough.

Or you have the world's shittiest hoop.

handbags at dawn
Mar 8, 2007

by T. Finninho


Shnooks posted:

Or you have the world's shittiest hoop.
I was including that as part of "not tight enough." I hate hoops. If I were going to frame something in a hoop, like Kirby up there (who is awfully cute), I would glue it. But that would be the only time I'd use a hoop. They're all lovely. Q-Snaps or in hand, thanks

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Shnooks
Mar 24, 2007

I'M BEING BORN D:


Figured it out. Never mind.

Shnooks fucked around with this message at 03:30 on May 6, 2012

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