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HodjasBitch
Apr 24, 2003

Too bad you revealed what a huge asshole you are so early in the game.....I woulda put out.

Stool Sample posted:


How do I cut/piece my quilt backing/batting?


edit: the backing is 3 yards of fabric I haven't messed with yet and an unopened prepackaged batting (which I think is twin-sized? I'll have to look.)

You'll need to fold that 3 yards in half, lengthwise, then cut it into 2 equal pieces of 1 1/2 yards. You then cut the selvedges off two sides and sew them together, giving you a piece that will be about 54 in x 84 in for your backing.

Twin batting is about 72 x 90, so you'll want to trim that down a little. Just be careful not to cut too much.

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Pile of Kittens
Apr 23, 2005

Why does everything STILL smell like pussy?



Pagan posted:

I've thought about that; the only downside is this is a heavy duty leather machine; it doesn't use feet that I can buy just anywhere. A single sided foot (close to a zipper foot) costs around $80, and I'd like to be sure that's my best option before spending the money.

Here's a picture of the leather sewing machine next to my kenmore.



You need the correct foot to do edgestitching like that. It's just a bitch and impossible without it for the reasons you've already noticed. There's just no way to control how the foot is going to deal with having uneven layers under it and you'll get weird shifting at exactly the wrong moment. Also, to keep the fabric lining from shifting, use a light fusible web to kinda tack it in place with a touch of heat (not enough to ruin the leather, obviously) so it doesn't wiggle as you sew. Consider using a tearaway layer underneath that you remove after stitching so that the feed dogs are not pushing directly on the lining. You can also think about binding the edges of the leather with satin tape so that while the back will look unfinished, the edges won't be raw, and then maybe you can skip the lining entirely!

Stool Sample
Nov 7, 2006

EVERYONE Poops!?



Lipstick Apathy

HodjasBitch posted:

You'll need to fold that 3 yards in half, lengthwise, then cut it into 2 equal pieces of 1 1/2 yards. You then cut the selvedges off two sides and sew them together, giving you a piece that will be about 54 in x 84 in for your backing.

Twin batting is about 72 x 90, so you'll want to trim that down a little. Just be careful not to cut too much.

Awesome, thank you!

Staryberry
Oct 16, 2009


I finished another sewing project. This one was a dress for my 20 month old niece. The free pattern is here:
http://www.makeit-loveit.com/2013/07/shirred-summer-dress-with-tie-back-bow.html

The fabric is Sarah Jane's Wee Wander Summer Night Lights in Magenta and the straps are Gentle Breeze by Leah Duncan.





My happy niece!



The shirring took some effort, but once I got going it wasn't hard. It took me about 10 hours with time to fix some mistakes. I'm very very proud of the end-results.

DJ Fuckboy Supreme
Feb 10, 2011

And when you stare long into the abyss, you become aggressively, terminally chill



Some awesome stuff coming out of this thread!



This is the third garment I have finished - well almost, this being the muslin mock for a pair of drop-crotch pants. As it stands these are too low on my waist and the drop isn't low enough, despite what I thought the measurements I took on myself would turn out.

I'm not sure if I could just raise the waistband to accommodate; this seems the easiest fix. I could also sew in a gusset but again, I'm not sure if I want the pants to be baggier or not. The waist is also about an inch too big.

Once I'm happy with the pattern they'll be made of a cotton/bamboo fleece.

DJ Fuckboy Supreme fucked around with this message at 22:25 on Apr 24, 2014

Queen Elizatits
May 3, 2005

Haven't you heard?
MARATHONS ARE HARD

NotAnArtist posted:

Some awesome stuff coming out of this thread!



This is the third garment I have finished - well almost, this being the muslin mock for a pair of drop-crotch pants. As it stands these are too low on my waist and the drop isn't low enough, despite what I thought the measurements I took on myself would turn out.

I'm not sure if I could just raise the waistband to accommodate; this seems the easiest fix. I could also sew in a gusset but again, I'm not sure if I want the pants to be baggier or not. The waist is also about an inch too big.

Once I'm happy with the pattern they'll be made of a cotton/bamboo fleece.

I have a baby sized monitor I hope you don't mind I resized your image

And I love it.

The waist being too big is definitely the biggest problem I have with this type of pants too, I think that's just one of those trial and error things. What I really love about your version is you start your taper a lot higher up than I do and I end up with this problem where mine are bagggy past my knees and unless I constantly pull them up they just look like regular baggy sweatpants.

I also love that you did seam pockets since I have yet to actually get a pair of those I like.

But anyway yeah, I love those and would wear the poo poo out of them. If you feel comfortable posting your pattern block I would love to see it and even if you don't I'll post mine tomorrow so we can compare if you like.

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May


I'd add a few inches to the length. They look like they'll bind and ride up a bit when you sit.

taiyoko
Jan 10, 2008




NotAnArtist posted:

Some awesome stuff coming out of this thread!



This is the third garment I have finished - well almost, this being the muslin mock for a pair of drop-crotch pants. As it stands these are too low on my waist and the drop isn't low enough, despite what I thought the measurements I took on myself would turn out.

I'm not sure if I could just raise the waistband to accommodate; this seems the easiest fix. I could also sew in a gusset but again, I'm not sure if I want the pants to be baggier or not. The waist is also about an inch too big.

Once I'm happy with the pattern they'll be made of a cotton/bamboo fleece.

I know you don't think the drop is enough, but honestly I think it'd look stupid dropped further than that. But I'm not a fan of the "I just poo poo my diaper" drop crotch look.

This shot of Justin Bieber is what I think of when I hear 'drop crotch pants' and why I shudder reflexively:

Queen Elizatits
May 3, 2005

Haven't you heard?
MARATHONS ARE HARD

taiyoko posted:

I know you don't think the drop is enough, but honestly I think it'd look stupid dropped further than that. But I'm not a fan of the "I just poo poo my diaper" drop crotch look.

This shot of Justin Bieber is what I think of when I hear 'drop crotch pants' and why I shudder reflexively:


While I totally get where you are coming from I think JayBee's brains are all messed up and that contributes to how dumb he looks most of the time.

So my counter example is that I think will.i.am looks amazing in that style of pants.

DJ Fuckboy Supreme
Feb 10, 2011

And when you stare long into the abyss, you become aggressively, terminally chill



Thanks for the positive feedback, all.

Honestly stultus I am a fan of the deep drop. It absolutely is a polarizing thing; I'm going to rework the pattern and drop the crotch another five inches and see where it lands me. I bought six metres of muslin and need about two and a bit for these pants. Funnily enough the drop is really only visible from the front, and they only look a little baggy in the seat. I'm pretty lazy when it comes to fixes, so I'll likely just make the waistband four inches tall so it adds the desired length because yes, they do sit awful low when I'm seated.

QE I have no problem sharing the pattern block, though it is shamefully simple. I always bite off more than I can chew and had to make a conscious effort to really simplify the whole thing. In future I want to make angled slit pockets that sit off the side seam, with the pocket just being a big circle sewed onto the inside of the front block... though that will obviously influence the look in a dramatic way, unless I use the same colour thread as the fabric I suppose.

The last major challenge I'll face with this project is the elasticized waistband. I ideally will have the back half elasticized and the front a drawstring just to sinch the fit; I don't really like bowing the tie and prefer a half knot look.

TL; DR pants

Funhilde
Jun 1, 2011

Cats Love Me.

NotAnArtist posted:

Thanks for the positive feedback, all.

Honestly stultus I am a fan of the deep drop. It absolutely is a polarizing thing; I'm going to rework the pattern and drop the crotch another five inches and see where it lands me. I bought six metres of muslin and need about two and a bit for these pants. Funnily enough the drop is really only visible from the front, and they only look a little baggy in the seat. I'm pretty lazy when it comes to fixes, so I'll likely just make the waistband four inches tall so it adds the desired length because yes, they do sit awful low when I'm seated.

QE I have no problem sharing the pattern block, though it is shamefully simple. I always bite off more than I can chew and had to make a conscious effort to really simplify the whole thing. In future I want to make angled slit pockets that sit off the side seam, with the pocket just being a big circle sewed onto the inside of the front block... though that will obviously influence the look in a dramatic way, unless I use the same colour thread as the fabric I suppose.

The last major challenge I'll face with this project is the elasticized waistband. I ideally will have the back half elasticized and the front a drawstring just to sinch the fit; I don't really like bowing the tie and prefer a half knot look.

TL; DR pants

One note about your muslin versus the jersey is to remember that they are going to drape differently.

For anyone sewing a bunch of menswear I do suggest checking out this blog- http://malepatternboldness.blogspot.com/ He is mostly a self taught sewer but he has a nice practical way of doing things and takes a ton of pictures.

DJ Fuckboy Supreme
Feb 10, 2011

And when you stare long into the abyss, you become aggressively, terminally chill



Edit: gently caress me, I didn't think the picture would be THAT big, apologies.

Here's the final piece. Still about an inch too big, despite me trying to adjust that. The drawstring helps and they're not falling off my rear end,but I may try to sew some elastic onto the interior of the waistband. I've looked up some youtube videos on the topic and it doesn't seem too hard.

The muslin mockup

The final, bamboo/cotton fleece

DJ Fuckboy Supreme fucked around with this message at 02:06 on Apr 27, 2014

baby puzzle
Jun 3, 2011

I'll Sequence your Storm.

The cut seems weird. I feel like it shouldn't be so baggy in front. I'm looking at my low-crotch pants and the crotch is usually more tapered in front. It is baggier in the back than it is in the front. I'm not sure if that makes sense.

I feel retarded because I cannot figure out how to use this website. There is a bunch of options but no button to click to apply my selections. Am I retarded or is it just broken?

http://www.moodfabrics.com/fashion-fabrics.html

hollylolly
Jun 5, 2009


baby puzzle posted:

The cut seems weird. I feel like it shouldn't be so baggy in front. I'm looking at my low-crotch pants and the crotch is usually more tapered in front. It is baggier in the back than it is in the front. I'm not sure if that makes sense.

I feel retarded because I cannot figure out how to use this website. There is a bunch of options but no button to click to apply my selections. Am I retarded or is it just broken?

http://www.moodfabrics.com/fashion-fabrics.html

It looks like the website auto-searches when you make a selection (like cotton blend), no need to click a "apply" button.

DJ Fuckboy Supreme
Feb 10, 2011

And when you stare long into the abyss, you become aggressively, terminally chill



I'm sure there's plenty of room to improve; this was my first pair of pants after all. I was worried about biting off more than I could chew with this project and do plan to retool the pattern for the next pair.

Shnooks
Mar 24, 2007

I'M BEING BORN D:


I have a silly question. Do you guys always do muslins the first time sewing a pattern? I'm terrible at doing that, I wonder if it's why my success rate with sewn garments is so low :v:

DJ Fuckboy Supreme
Feb 10, 2011

And when you stare long into the abyss, you become aggressively, terminally chill



I've recently used muslin because it's a cheap dry run. As stated earlier in the thread, muslin isn't the best to use in the case where the final fabric is substantially different in stretch and stiffness. For example, the fleece pants I made are about a size larger than the mock despite using the exact same pattern pieces; I've got some linen-viscose fabric lined up for a more summery pair and am hoping they stay truer to the pattern.

Funhilde
Jun 1, 2011

Cats Love Me.

NotAnArtist posted:

I've recently used muslin because it's a cheap dry run. As stated earlier in the thread, muslin isn't the best to use in the case where the final fabric is substantially different in stretch and stiffness. For example, the fleece pants I made are about a size larger than the mock despite using the exact same pattern pieces; I've got some linen-viscose fabric lined up for a more summery pair and am hoping they stay truer to the pattern.

I have found it is pretty easy to find fleece for really cheap at thrift stores. You can also use sheets for muslins as well.

Pile of Kittens
Apr 23, 2005

Why does everything STILL smell like pussy?



You don't have to make your muslin out of muslin! Just find something cheap that has similar characteristics. For instance, I used cheap cotton duck fabric to mimic the expensive high tech cordura for when I was making skydiving jumpsuits.

Staryberry
Oct 16, 2009


Here are a couple of my recent projects. I did another clutch. This one was a gift to a friend.

The fabric on the outside is Anna Maria Horner Field Study Linen Ghost Wing Dusk and the lining is Botanics Curry Metallic Perennial.







I am planning on making a table runner out of the Ghost Wing Dusk next. I think it's gorgeous.

I also made a skirt for the 4 year old daughter of a friend, who loves horseback riding. Unfortunately, I suck at math and it was too short, so I added the pink band on the bottom. I like the end result, though. I'm especially proud of the cotton petticoat I made for it. I think it gives the skirt a great "poof."





DJ Fuckboy Supreme
Feb 10, 2011

And when you stare long into the abyss, you become aggressively, terminally chill



That's a garment any four year old would be proud to wear, good show.

That Damn Satyr
Nov 4, 2008

A connoisseur of fine junk


Quick question: is there any sort of thread for embroidery (like hand embroidery) and the like? Lately I've taken it up and I was hoping there might be a little bit of a goon knowledgebase but since search is busted, finding it isn't going so smoothly.

Staryberry
Oct 16, 2009


That drat Satyr posted:

Quick question: is there any sort of thread for embroidery (like hand embroidery) and the like? Lately I've taken it up and I was hoping there might be a little bit of a goon knowledgebase but since search is busted, finding it isn't going so smoothly.

You may have more luck if you search for "embroidery floss." Embroidery floss can be found at most craft stores. I know I've seen it at Michaels and JoAnns. The big difference between hand embroidery floss and machine embroidery thread is that hand embroidery floss is usually 6 pieces of thread wound together. This allows you to embroider a thicker line. Alternatively, you can pull the strands apart and embroider with two or three strands, thus making a finer line. The brand I use is DMC. It's usually at a craft store by the needle point supplies.

Here is what it looks like:

http://www.michaels.com/dmc-embroidery-floss-red-321/10031306.html#q=Embroidery&start=8

vaguely
Apr 29, 2013

hot_squirting_honey.gif



Staryberry posted:

You may have more luck if you search for "embroidery floss." Embroidery floss can be found at most craft stores. I know I've seen it at Michaels and JoAnns. The big difference between hand embroidery floss and machine embroidery thread is that hand embroidery floss is usually 6 pieces of thread wound together. This allows you to embroider a thicker line. Alternatively, you can pull the strands apart and embroider with two or three strands, thus making a finer line. The brand I use is DMC. It's usually at a craft store by the needle point supplies.

Here is what it looks like:

http://www.michaels.com/dmc-embroidery-floss-red-321/10031306.html#q=Embroidery&start=8
I think they mean a forums thread
good post though!

As for whether there is one, I don't know, sorry. I haven't seen one, anyway

Micomicona
Aug 7, 2007


Haha, I think they meant like, an SA thread. I haven't seen one but I'd be interested too!

e: beaten! If there isn't one, there ought to be, I think.

Fru Fru
Sep 14, 2007
We're gonna need a bigger boat...and some water.

There definitely used to be one for cross stitch and I think embroidery, but I can't find it so it must have been archived. And trying to look in the archives broke something for me so I can't even look for it. Oh well.

vaguely
Apr 29, 2013

hot_squirting_honey.gif



Fru Fru posted:

There definitely used to be one for cross stitch and I think embroidery, but I can't find it so it must have been archived. And trying to look in the archives broke something for me so I can't even look for it. Oh well.
Yeah, archives and search are both broken and apparently nobody intends to / knows how to fix them

If somebody wants to make an embroidery thread I would also be interested, I've enjoyed a bit of cross-stitch in the past but don't feel confident enough in my knowledge of various embroidery techniques to put an OP together

Staryberry
Oct 16, 2009


Oops! That's what I get for posting first thing in the morning, before the coffee sinks in!

That Damn Satyr
Nov 4, 2008

A connoisseur of fine junk


I did in fact mean a SA thread, sorry for the confusion. :)

I would be mighty pleased if a new thread happened to turn up. I need somewhere to bitch about how black work is ruining my eyesight and rawr rawr sew sew etc. <3

Bitter Beard
Sep 11, 2001

I don't even know what the fuck I'm doing!!


If you do an embroidery thread can the machine bros post in it too?

Funhilde
Jun 1, 2011

Cats Love Me.

Been making little girls dresses out of my fabric stash. Also just did this one for a friend.


DJ Fuckboy Supreme
Feb 10, 2011

And when you stare long into the abyss, you become aggressively, terminally chill



Those are some cute little dresses!

Question: I'm designing a sleeveless, hooded sweatshirt. I'd like a large, oversized hood, which will likely be a three-piece design. Any pointers on how to keep it from being effeminate? I've just sketched a couple rough designs and I want it to be as masculine as possible. The rough I made is too long at the back, which I can correct easily enough, but I guess the pattern pieces just need to be taller so the hood is more broad when up.

Any advice would be handy, thanks

Keska
Jan 29, 2007
Persistent Lurker

Can you show some pictures that are a good example of what you mean by "masculine?" Hoodies are generally men's clothes, so I tend to think of them as masculine to begin with.

Keska
Jan 29, 2007
Persistent Lurker

Oh, and I thought I would make the same offer over here that I did in the plushie thread:

Keska posted:

Okay! Who wants to be a pattern tester? I have the instructions written and the pattern vectored for my Scraps Cat pattern. If you want to test it, drop me a PM with an email address I can send the PDF to. What I need from you are any corrections or suggestions on the instructions or the pattern itself, and if at all possible, a picture of your finished cat!

It was this pattern:



If you can't be bothered with all that nonsense, I'll post a discount code for goons once it's ready to sell.

DJ Fuckboy Supreme
Feb 10, 2011

And when you stare long into the abyss, you become aggressively, terminally chill



Keska posted:

Can you show some pictures that are a good example of what you mean by "masculine?" Hoodies are generally men's clothes, so I tend to think of them as masculine to begin with.

I feel kind of dumb for using gendered language, was going to edit it out but my dinner arrived. I'll just post my sketches at some point, I just want a sober second opinion before I get too invested is all.

Edit: this is the sketch I feel most comfortable with, hopefully it won't blow the tables sky-high - The left variant has sleeves sketched in as an afterthought, though it'll most likely end up sleeveless. Feel free to critique, I'm getting a nagging "fisherman" feel from the variant on the right.

DJ Fuckboy Supreme fucked around with this message at 02:43 on May 17, 2014

Bees on Wheat
Jul 18, 2007

I've never been happy



QUAIL DIVISION


Buglord

Okay, how do you mark and cut really drapey fabrics without wanting to kill yourself? I am working on this pattern, and it has several large, complicated pieces that are hard to trace because the fabric keeps shifting. So far I have resorted to weighting the pieces down with soup cans, taping the fabric to the floor, and spray starching the living hell out of it. For marking I'm using water soluble fabric pens, but I also have blue fabric pencils and tailors chalk. Anything else I should be trying?

Dr. Kloctopussy
Apr 22, 2003

"It's time....to DIE!"


Pin it to a refrigerator box?

Comrade Quack
Jun 6, 2006
Witty closing remarks have been replaced by massive head trauma and general stupidity.

Fallen Rib

I've seen some spray near the pattern counter that is designed to adhere the pattern to the fabric without pins.

Bees on Wheat
Jul 18, 2007

I've never been happy



QUAIL DIVISION


Buglord

Both of those are pretty good ideas! I had some similar thoughts, but it was late at night and I don't have access to either of those things so I went with starch and tape. So far it works alright, but I'll probably try the spray glue tomorrow if I can get to the fabric store. Waiting for the starch to dry is a pain and I accidentally starched a couple pattern pieces, making them all wrinkly and weird.

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sforzacio
Nov 6, 2012



Transfer the tissue pattern onto pattern or manilla paper, then weigh down the pattern with a bunch of stuff. Then you have a kind of hard/raised edge where you can painstakingly mark using light and gentle strokes around it.

edit: or just pin the tissue straight to the fabric and cut?

sforzacio fucked around with this message at 19:53 on May 18, 2014

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