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blargle posted:What's a decent metric ratchet and socket set that can stand up to normal automotive maintenance/breaker bar type stuff? Harbor Freight or Craftsman good enough? SnapOn is a bit out of my price range. I would get a couple breaker bars from Harbor Freight and whatever ratchet feels best in your hand. I have a Craftsman ratchet that's fine but I hear this Harbor Freight one is really nice.
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Nov 24, 2011 18:56
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Composite huh? how am i supposed to use my ratchet as a hammer if it's composite?
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Nov 24, 2011 19:02
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mod sassinator posted:I would get a couple breaker bars from Harbor Freight and whatever ratchet feels best in your hand. I have a Craftsman ratchet that's fine but I hear this Harbor Freight one is really nice.
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Nov 24, 2011 19:03
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I still like Craftsman, the quality has gone down but they aren't cheap yet, and the sets you can buy are very convenient. Instead of a ratchet here, socket set there, extension somewhere else, digging around in your tool box or bag to get everything you want. I mostly use (and abuse) a Stanley set I got off woot years ago. Only thing I have broken was the 3/8 ratchet last weekend with several feet of cheater and all my weight on it. It has 1/4 and 3/8 ratchets with every standard and metric size up to 19mm, extensions, deep sockets, and spark plug sockets all in one case. It's great opening one case and having everything you need at your fingertips.
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Nov 24, 2011 19:20
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I just picked up a set of metric hex and torx sockets from harbor freight. I also love the 1/2inch breaker bar from HF, it put on headbolts at 27ft/lbs at 90-90-90 without any complaints at all. Why a 4 banger at 120hp needs that much strength is beyond me though. 
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Nov 24, 2011 19:23
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I've been very happy with this ratchet: http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-quick-release-swivel-head-ratchet-96783.html and I have a set of 1/2" 6 pt impact sockets from harbor freight as well that I'm very happy with. They're currently going on it's second engine removal and they're holding up just fine.
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Nov 24, 2011 19:54
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When it comes to selecting a ratchet, also look at the tooth count. I find higher tooth count models to be a little smoother and are super useful in tight places.
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Nov 24, 2011 20:51
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Sockington posted:When it comes to selecting a ratchet, also look at the tooth count. I find higher tooth count models to be a little smoother and are super useful in tight places. be a man and use a vice grip around the socket while you turn. 
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Nov 24, 2011 21:16
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ratbert90 posted:be a man and use a vice grip around the socket while you turn. I can feel pain in my knuckles just by reading this.
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Nov 24, 2011 21:58
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Sockington posted:When it comes to selecting a ratchet, also look at the tooth count. I find higher tooth count models to be a little smoother and are super useful in tight places. I bought the Snap-on double 80-tooth ratchet (F80) and use it with my normal sockets. The way I see it, a single $80 purchase that I use all the time is worth it, and I can use cheaper sockets. Having the super smooth ratcheting action makes it so convenient, and there's almost nothing I do to a car where I don't need a 3/8 ratchet. I find it really easy to rationalize the one $80 purchase.
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Nov 24, 2011 22:16
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FYI a lot of black friday deals at Lowes are already on sale on their website. Select in store pick up and avoid the crowds!
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Nov 24, 2011 23:05
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astrollinthepork posted:I can feel pain in my knuckles just by reading this. Yeah, I've stripped the gears in a full set of Craftsman ratchets. It's always fun when you go in for a warranty swap and the clerk just stares at you for a minute. But a man who manages to bend a half-inch-drive ratchet handle is not a man to be hosed with. That reminds me of the comments on some tool shop's website about the five-foot pipe wrenches -- some roughnecks were quite annoyed that the handle bent when they hitched it up to their big-diesel 1-ton Dodge dually and floored it to break loose a stubborn bolt the size of your thigh.
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Nov 25, 2011 04:34
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Delivery McGee posted:That reminds me of the comments on some tool shop's website about the five-foot pipe wrenches -- some roughnecks were quite annoyed that the handle bent when they hitched it up to their big-diesel 1-ton Dodge dually and floored it to break loose a stubborn bolt the size of your thigh. Some people just don't realize there's a wrench that's bigger than 1/2". Get a 3/4" or 1" drive ratchet/breaker bar and just laugh at that seized fastener. ratbert90 posted:The point is, bigger isn't always better. Words you live by, I'm sure. Sockington fucked around with this message at 08:24 on Nov 25, 2011 |
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Nov 25, 2011 08:10
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Sockington posted:Some people just don't realize there's a wrench that's bigger than 1/2". Get a 3/4" or 1" drive ratchet/breaker bar and just laugh at that seized fastener. And I have seen Axles so rusted to the hub that a press couldn't get them out with 5 tons of pressure. It took a blow torch, 10 minutes of heating the fucker up, and keeping 5 tons of pressure to break that fucker off. Scared the poo poo out of me. The point is, bigger isn't always better.
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Nov 25, 2011 08:16
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There's 108 pages in this thread so I hope this hasn't been asked before. I'm looking for a welder to do some rust repair in my XJ/CUCV. Is the Lincoln AC-225 a good choice for a novice? http://www.amazon.com/Lincoln-Electric-K1170-AC225S-Welder/dp/B0000CBIKA
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Nov 25, 2011 08:56
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Sockington posted:Some people just don't realize there's a wrench that's bigger than 1/2". Get a 3/4" or 1" drive ratchet/breaker bar and just laugh at that seized fastener. My grandpa was a pipe fitter of some sort in Elyria, OH, the home of The Ridge Tool company. Ridgid had a vending window at their plant at that time from which you could buy or exchange tools. On one particular day, he exchanged three 36" pipe wrenches because they bent the handles. The tool salesman said he'd "like to meet the man could do that to a wrench". Grandpa said his name "his name is John Deere". Ridgid tools are awesome, but there's always a bigger nut.
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Nov 25, 2011 12:07
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I use my ratchet as a hammer alot, so I bought myself a present, a Wera Koloss
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Nov 25, 2011 12:50
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Veins McGee posted:There's 108 pages in this thread so I hope this hasn't been asked before. I'm looking for a welder to do some rust repair in my XJ/CUCV. Is the Lincoln AC-225 a good choice for a novice? If your rust repairs are on body work, no way, get a MIG. If you're talking about structural rust on a frame, sure.
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Nov 25, 2011 14:57
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mattmofob posted:Holy poo poo.  Please let this be a real thing and not just a render.
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Nov 25, 2011 15:00
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I ordered one of these this morning, and thought someone else here might be interested in the deal (4 piece Milwaukee M18 reconditioned tool set: $279 shipped): http://m.northerntool.com/northernt...oductName=false Hopefully it doesn't suck (I know it won't).
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Nov 25, 2011 15:19
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Are 18v batteries standardized or do they just look similar from a distance?
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Nov 25, 2011 15:44
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Lord Gaga posted:That's a pretty good speed for mild steel. I typically run HSS drills of unknown quality at 100SFM in mild steel and 250SFM in aluminum and turn it up from there although I always run coolant as this is in a CNC mill. That'd be about 500 RPM for a 3/4 drill. huh, good to know! I have no idea why mine haven't rusted yet - I left the 3/4 one and I think the 9/16 sitting on my porch accidentally after drilling some parts for my jeep and it rained while I was away. Still no rust, except for residue from the drill shavings. Most of the TiN ones I got were from Home Depot - I've broken or dulled Ryobi, DeWalt, and most other major brand's TiN bits while treating them more carefully than I treat my black oxide ones.
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Nov 25, 2011 16:05
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Someone (or maybe me) mentioned this thing before, but I just want to reiterate that this thing is awesome. 72-tooth gear action, 3/8" and 1/4" drive on one wrench. Normally combo stuff like that is annoying, but this comes in handy. The extendable handle is awesome for when you need that extra leverage.  http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eighth-inch-x-1-4-quarter-inch-dual-drive-extendable-ratchet-98802.html
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Nov 25, 2011 17:06
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I just found this hammer and I don't care that it appears to be more for home demo and not automotive, nor do I care enough to decide if it's gimmicky or not because loving look at it. The Dead On Annihilator.  gently caress yes. And if that wasn't enough. 
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Nov 25, 2011 17:45
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Skyssx posted:Thanks for this info about drill bits. I was automatically wary of the huge amounts of advertisement on Lowe's/HD drill bit sets. Good to know that was well founded. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_oxide Keep in mind TiAlN coated bits are also black and that is a great coating.
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Nov 25, 2011 18:05
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Veins McGee posted:There's 108 pages in this thread so I hope this hasn't been asked before. I'm looking for a welder to do some rust repair in my XJ/CUCV. Is the Lincoln AC-225 a good choice for a novice? A stick welder would seem to be a poor choice unless you are doing frame welding. A 110v FCAW/flux core does sheet metal body panels and exhaust just fine. I've got a Lincoln Weldpac 100 (62 AMP) that does just well by me. MIG would be better/cleaner, but it's nice to have the option to use flux core if you're outside on a windy day or in odd positions. Some day I'm going to pick up the conversion kit for mine so I can do both. I'd only stick welded before this. It's quite a change, but in my opinion, a much better way of doing the things I typically do. Still trying to get used to holding OFF of my work piece, but after just a few times I was welding better/cleaner than I ever had with a stick welder. Note, I'm not much of a welder to begin with, but I can make my way through some body repairs and certainly exhaust/brackets/hangers. I have more clean up to do than a competent welder would, but I eventually get there. If you have more experience welding...especially stick welding....my opinions here might not be valid for you.
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Nov 25, 2011 18:34
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Veins McGee posted:There's 108 pages in this thread so I hope this hasn't been asked before. I'm looking for a welder to do some rust repair in my XJ/CUCV. Is the Lincoln AC-225 a good choice for a novice? MIG (not wire feed) is where its at for automotive repairs. Oh how I regret buying a TIG considering this is almost all I do.
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Nov 25, 2011 18:45
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Jared592 posted:Someone (or maybe me) mentioned this thing before, but I just want to reiterate that this thing is awesome. 72-tooth gear action, 3/8" and 1/4" drive on one wrench. Normally combo stuff like that is annoying, but this comes in handy. The extendable handle is awesome for when you need that extra leverage. Might have been me, since that's my favorite tool of all time.  Mine's an OG dark red handle though. Ruffians these days with their bright colors...
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Nov 25, 2011 18:54
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Lord Gaga posted:MIG (not wire feed) is where its at for automotive repairs. Oh how I regret buying a TIG considering this is almost all I do. http://www.amazon.com/Hobart-500550-Auto-Wire-Welding/dp/B002VECKTM/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top Hobart 500550 Auto Arc 130 Able to do stick and MIG weld, yay or nay?
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Nov 25, 2011 19:45
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Veins McGee posted:http://www.amazon.com/Hobart-500550-Auto-Wire-Welding/dp/B002VECKTM/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top That can't do stick. Just MIG and flux wire feed. I'd opt for the Hobart 140 for a little more cash, and pick up a HF auto-darkening helmet instead of the cheap flip helmet in that package. The 140 is about the most solid single-phase mig you can get. I love mine. I'm pretty sure that 130 is much closer to the 125. There's very little info around on the 130. Sometimes the 140 shows up refurbished on discount, but they sell out quick. eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 22:25 on Nov 25, 2011 |
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Nov 25, 2011 21:13
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I cant think of a reason to ever do stick.
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Nov 25, 2011 21:19
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Lord Gaga posted:I cant think of a reason to ever do stick. The buzzy noise when the electrode gets stuck is kinda cool?
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Nov 25, 2011 21:37
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Has anybody bought this yet? I've wanted one since Anthony Sullivan hyped it in infomercials. http://www.harborfreight.com/5-double-cut-saw-68316-8065.html
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Nov 25, 2011 21:53
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Rhyno posted:Has anybody bought this yet? I've wanted one since Anthony Sullivan hyped it in infomercials. Doesn't that just make a huge kerf for no good reason, other than to people who have very poor saw skills. Looks like all of those kitchen devices (slicers, dicers, etc) designed to replace proper knife skills.
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Nov 25, 2011 21:58
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Looks like what it's for is blowing through stuff quickly without giving a gently caress about getting bound up or jerking. Not a saw user though, so just shooting in the dark here.
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Nov 25, 2011 22:27
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14 INCH DICK TURBO posted:I just found this hammer and I don't care that it appears to be more for home demo and not automotive, nor do I care enough to decide if it's gimmicky or not because loving look at it. That's more for home construction and demo, yeah. The gripping section in the middle is for grabbing lumber and twisting it into position while nailing with another tool, it's great when you can't get straight lumber and want both ends of a joist to be vertical or similar. I have a similar tool - the stanley fubar.  It is GREAT when dealing with warped lumber but I can't think of any use when working on cars, aside from being the 'god dammit' tool. Also, I'm not really happy with the only Dead On product I have... I have their framing hammer. The head isn't ground completely flat and perpendicular with the handle shank, and the handle shank bends a little bit if you drop it off a roof. This makes it very easy to hit nails wrong and bend them over till you realize what's going on and hit something with the side of the head to straighten it back out a bit.
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Nov 25, 2011 22:27
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Rhyno posted:Has anybody bought this yet? I've wanted one since Anthony Sullivan hyped it in infomercials. Can't speak to the HF version but I had a Craftsman about 10-12 years ago when these first made the rounds. If you are cutting metal it spews big screaming hot chips everywhere. Mine poo poo the bed when I was cutting holes in computer floor tiles. Kinda heavy sheetmetal, spotwelds an multiple layers of steel in spots so I don't blame the saw so much. But cut like buttah until the gearbox seized. I think its purpose is better served by a Sawzall...
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Nov 25, 2011 22:34
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CatBus posted:I ordered one of these this morning, and thought someone else here might be interested in the deal (4 piece Milwaukee M18 reconditioned tool set: $279 shipped): I also hope it doesn't suck as I bought one as well.
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Nov 25, 2011 22:56
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Bogatyr posted:Can't speak to the HF version but I had a Craftsman about 10-12 years ago when these first made the rounds. If you are cutting metal it spews big screaming hot chips everywhere. Mine poo poo the bed when I was cutting holes in computer floor tiles. Kinda heavy sheetmetal, spotwelds an multiple layers of steel in spots so I don't blame the saw so much. But cut like buttah until the gearbox seized. aren't those usually cement-filled? I'm extremely impressed by any saw that can cut cement-filled steel stuff like raised floor tiles and lally columns  it's a job I generally leave for an angle grinder with disposable cutting wheels.
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Nov 25, 2011 23:56
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kastein posted:aren't those usually cement-filled? I'm extremely impressed by any saw that can cut cement-filled steel stuff like raised floor tiles and lally columns Some of them are concrete filled, these were not. The concrete ones we have run into were also carpeted. 
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Nov 26, 2011 00:32
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