Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
mod sassinator
Dec 13, 2006



blargle posted:

What's a decent metric ratchet and socket set that can stand up to normal automotive maintenance/breaker bar type stuff? Harbor Freight or Craftsman good enough? SnapOn is a bit out of my price range.

I would get a couple breaker bars from Harbor Freight and whatever ratchet feels best in your hand. I have a Craftsman ratchet that's fine but I hear this Harbor Freight one is really nice.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

BraveUlysses
Aug 7, 2002



Composite huh? how am i supposed to use my ratchet as a hammer if it's composite?

grover
Jan 23, 2002

PEW PEW PEW







mod sassinator posted:

I would get a couple breaker bars from Harbor Freight and whatever ratchet feels best in your hand. I have a Craftsman ratchet that's fine but I hear this Harbor Freight one is really nice.
HF's 1/2" ratcheting breaker bar is my favorite tool. It's amazing the difference an extra foot of leverage makes.

SNiPER_Magnum
Jan 21, 2001

Don't close. Don't close.

Nap Ghost

I still like Craftsman, the quality has gone down but they aren't cheap yet, and the sets you can buy are very convenient. Instead of a ratchet here, socket set there, extension somewhere else, digging around in your tool box or bag to get everything you want.

I mostly use (and abuse) a Stanley set I got off woot years ago. Only thing I have broken was the 3/8 ratchet last weekend with several feet of cheater and all my weight on it. It has 1/4 and 3/8 ratchets with every standard and metric size up to 19mm, extensions, deep sockets, and spark plug sockets all in one case. It's great opening one case and having everything you need at your fingertips.

DoomTrainPhD
Feb 12, 2009



I just picked up a set of metric hex and torx sockets from harbor freight.

I also love the 1/2inch breaker bar from HF, it put on headbolts at 27ft/lbs at 90-90-90 without any complaints at all.

Why a 4 banger at 120hp needs that much strength is beyond me though.

dyne
May 9, 2003
[blank]

I've been very happy with this ratchet: http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-ha...chet-96783.html and I have a set of 1/2" 6 pt impact sockets from harbor freight as well that I'm very happy with. They're currently going on it's second engine removal and they're holding up just fine.

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003


When it comes to selecting a ratchet, also look at the tooth count. I find higher tooth count models to be a little smoother and are super useful in tight places.

DoomTrainPhD
Feb 12, 2009



Sockington posted:

When it comes to selecting a ratchet, also look at the tooth count. I find higher tooth count models to be a little smoother and are super useful in tight places.

be a man and use a vice grip around the socket while you turn.

astrollinthepork
Sep 24, 2007

When you come at the king, you best not miss, snitch

HE KNOWS


ratbert90 posted:

be a man and use a vice grip around the socket while you turn.

I can feel pain in my knuckles just by reading this.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.


Sockington posted:

When it comes to selecting a ratchet, also look at the tooth count. I find higher tooth count models to be a little smoother and are super useful in tight places.

I bought the Snap-on double 80-tooth ratchet (F80) and use it with my normal sockets. The way I see it, a single $80 purchase that I use all the time is worth it, and I can use cheaper sockets. Having the super smooth ratcheting action makes it so convenient, and there's almost nothing I do to a car where I don't need a 3/8 ratchet. I find it really easy to rationalize the one $80 purchase.

ASSTASTIC
Apr 26, 2003

Hey Gusy!

FYI a lot of black friday deals at Lowes are already on sale on their website. Select in store pick up and avoid the crowds!

Chillbro Baggins
Oct 8, 2004
Bad Angus! Bad!


astrollinthepork posted:

I can feel pain in my knuckles just by reading this.
Not if you use a 3-pound drilling hammer to turn it! The poor man's impact wrench: whatever you can get on the nut + drilling hammer (if there's room to swing a 4lb engineer's hammer you should be able to use a cheater bar/pipe). Also if the ratchet you're using to turn the bolt is 3/8" or 1/4", you can use the 1/2" ratchet as a hammer in tight places.

Yeah, I've stripped the gears in a full set of Craftsman ratchets. It's always fun when you go in for a warranty swap and the clerk just stares at you for a minute. But a man who manages to bend a half-inch-drive ratchet handle is not a man to be hosed with.

That reminds me of the comments on some tool shop's website about the five-foot pipe wrenches -- some roughnecks were quite annoyed that the handle bent when they hitched it up to their big-diesel 1-ton Dodge dually and floored it to break loose a stubborn bolt the size of your thigh.

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003


Delivery McGee posted:

That reminds me of the comments on some tool shop's website about the five-foot pipe wrenches -- some roughnecks were quite annoyed that the handle bent when they hitched it up to their big-diesel 1-ton Dodge dually and floored it to break loose a stubborn bolt the size of your thigh.

Some people just don't realize there's a wrench that's bigger than 1/2". Get a 3/4" or 1" drive ratchet/breaker bar and just laugh at that seized fastener.


ratbert90 posted:

The point is, bigger isn't always better.

Words you live by, I'm sure.

Sockington fucked around with this message at 07:24 on Nov 25, 2011

DoomTrainPhD
Feb 12, 2009



Sockington posted:

Some people just don't realize there's a wrench that's bigger than 1/2". Get a 3/4" or 1" drive ratchet/breaker bar and just laugh at that seized fastener.

And I have seen Axles so rusted to the hub that a press couldn't get them out with 5 tons of pressure.

It took a blow torch, 10 minutes of heating the fucker up, and keeping 5 tons of pressure to break that fucker off. Scared the poo poo out of me.


The point is, bigger isn't always better.

vains
May 26, 2004


There's 108 pages in this thread so I hope this hasn't been asked before. I'm looking for a welder to do some rust repair in my XJ/CUCV. Is the Lincoln AC-225 a good choice for a novice?

http://www.amazon.com/Lincoln-Elect...r/dp/B0000CBIKA

Skyssx
Feb 2, 2001

by T. Fine


Sockington posted:

Some people just don't realize there's a wrench that's bigger than 1/2". Get a 3/4" or 1" drive ratchet/breaker bar and just laugh at that seized fastener.

My grandpa was a pipe fitter of some sort in Elyria, OH, the home of The Ridge Tool company. Ridgid had a vending window at their plant at that time from which you could buy or exchange tools. On one particular day, he exchanged three 36" pipe wrenches because they bent the handles. The tool salesman said he'd "like to meet the man could do that to a wrench". Grandpa said his name "his name is John Deere". Ridgid tools are awesome, but there's always a bigger nut.

mattmofob
May 2, 2005

DUCK

I use my ratchet as a hammer alot, so I bought myself a present, a Wera Koloss

Only registered members can see post attachments!

eddiewalker
Apr 27, 2004


Veins McGee posted:

There's 108 pages in this thread so I hope this hasn't been asked before. I'm looking for a welder to do some rust repair in my XJ/CUCV. Is the Lincoln AC-225 a good choice for a novice?

http://www.amazon.com/Lincoln-Elect...r/dp/B0000CBIKA

If your rust repairs are on body work, no way, get a MIG. If you're talking about structural rust on a frame, sure.

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!

mattmofob posted:



Holy poo poo.

Please let this be a real thing and not just a render.

CatBus
May 12, 2001

Who wants a mustache ride?

I ordered one of these this morning, and thought someone else here might be interested in the deal (4 piece Milwaukee M18 reconditioned tool set: $279 shipped):
http://m.northerntool.com/northernt...oductName=false

Hopefully it doesn't suck (I know it won't).

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Your authority is not recognized in Fort Kickass.


Are 18v batteries standardized or do they just look similar from a distance?

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.


Lord Gaga posted:

That's a pretty good speed for mild steel. I typically run HSS drills of unknown quality at 100SFM in mild steel and 250SFM in aluminum and turn it up from there although I always run coolant as this is in a CNC mill. That'd be about 500 RPM for a 3/4 drill.


TiN drills of good quality (not harbor freight) will last a good bit longer than bright finish (uncoated) drills and can be run at significantly higher speeds. Black oxide is actually a very poor rust proofing coating which does not affect hardness or drill speed. TiAlN is the black coating that is supposed to be the next step up from TiN. I dont have a lot of experience with it as usually theyre price comparable to carbide or if its a coated carbide its too pricey for the shop I was at.

Cobalt drills are actually HSS drills with some cobalt added. Its a bit of a misnomer as IIRC Carbide drills actually have more cobalt in them. Either way they do rock and with the absolute poo poo that is sold as drills at hardware stores, I'd highly recommend getting a cobalt set.

huh, good to know!

I have no idea why mine haven't rusted yet - I left the 3/4 one and I think the 9/16 sitting on my porch accidentally after drilling some parts for my jeep and it rained while I was away. Still no rust, except for residue from the drill shavings.

Most of the TiN ones I got were from Home Depot - I've broken or dulled Ryobi, DeWalt, and most other major brand's TiN bits while treating them more carefully than I treat my black oxide ones.

Jared592
Jan 23, 2003
JARED NUMBERS: BACK IN ACTION


Someone (or maybe me) mentioned this thing before, but I just want to reiterate that this thing is awesome. 72-tooth gear action, 3/8" and 1/4" drive on one wrench. Normally combo stuff like that is annoying, but this comes in handy. The extendable handle is awesome for when you need that extra leverage.



http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-ei...chet-98802.html

INCHI DICKARI
Aug 23, 2006

by FactsAreUseless


I just found this hammer and I don't care that it appears to be more for home demo and not automotive, nor do I care enough to decide if it's gimmicky or not because loving look at it.

The Dead On Annihilator.



gently caress yes. And if that wasn't enough.

Lord Gaga
May 9, 2010

by T. Finninho


Skyssx posted:

Thanks for this info about drill bits. I was automatically wary of the huge amounts of advertisement on Lowe's/HD drill bit sets. Good to know that was well founded.

Are the black oxide bits just phosphated steel? If so, they would need a good oil soaking to even have any rust prevention properties.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_oxide

Keep in mind TiAlN coated bits are also black and that is a great coating.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009


MOTRONIC FOR MODERATOR, MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN


Grimey Drawer

Veins McGee posted:

There's 108 pages in this thread so I hope this hasn't been asked before. I'm looking for a welder to do some rust repair in my XJ/CUCV. Is the Lincoln AC-225 a good choice for a novice?

http://www.amazon.com/Lincoln-Elect...r/dp/B0000CBIKA

A stick welder would seem to be a poor choice unless you are doing frame welding. A 110v FCAW/flux core does sheet metal body panels and exhaust just fine. I've got a Lincoln Weldpac 100 (62 AMP) that does just well by me. MIG would be better/cleaner, but it's nice to have the option to use flux core if you're outside on a windy day or in odd positions. Some day I'm going to pick up the conversion kit for mine so I can do both.

I'd only stick welded before this. It's quite a change, but in my opinion, a much better way of doing the things I typically do. Still trying to get used to holding OFF of my work piece, but after just a few times I was welding better/cleaner than I ever had with a stick welder. Note, I'm not much of a welder to begin with, but I can make my way through some body repairs and certainly exhaust/brackets/hangers. I have more clean up to do than a competent welder would, but I eventually get there. If you have more experience welding...especially stick welding....my opinions here might not be valid for you.

Lord Gaga
May 9, 2010

by T. Finninho


Veins McGee posted:

There's 108 pages in this thread so I hope this hasn't been asked before. I'm looking for a welder to do some rust repair in my XJ/CUCV. Is the Lincoln AC-225 a good choice for a novice?

http://www.amazon.com/Lincoln-Elect...r/dp/B0000CBIKA

MIG (not wire feed) is where its at for automotive repairs. Oh how I regret buying a TIG considering this is almost all I do.

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!

Jared592 posted:

Someone (or maybe me) mentioned this thing before, but I just want to reiterate that this thing is awesome. 72-tooth gear action, 3/8" and 1/4" drive on one wrench. Normally combo stuff like that is annoying, but this comes in handy. The extendable handle is awesome for when you need that extra leverage.



http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-ei...chet-98802.html

Might have been me, since that's my favorite tool of all time.

Mine's an OG dark red handle though. Ruffians these days with their bright colors...

vains
May 26, 2004


Lord Gaga posted:

MIG (not wire feed) is where its at for automotive repairs. Oh how I regret buying a TIG considering this is almost all I do.

http://www.amazon.com/Hobart-500550..._pr_product_top

Hobart 500550 Auto Arc 130

Able to do stick and MIG weld, yay or nay?

eddiewalker
Apr 27, 2004


Veins McGee posted:

http://www.amazon.com/Hobart-500550..._pr_product_top

Hobart 500550 Auto Arc 130

Able to do stick and MIG weld, yay or nay?

That can't do stick. Just MIG and flux wire feed. I'd opt for the Hobart 140 for a little more cash, and pick up a HF auto-darkening helmet instead of the cheap flip helmet in that package. The 140 is about the most solid single-phase mig you can get. I love mine. I'm pretty sure that 130 is much closer to the 125. There's very little info around on the 130.

Sometimes the 140 shows up refurbished on discount, but they sell out quick.

eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 21:25 on Nov 25, 2011

Lord Gaga
May 9, 2010

by T. Finninho


I cant think of a reason to ever do stick.

pim01
Oct 22, 2002



Lord Gaga posted:

I cant think of a reason to ever do stick.

The buzzy noise when the electrode gets stuck is kinda cool?

Rhyno
Mar 22, 2003

Psst! It's me!
The Sinister with the mutant gene.


Has anybody bought this yet? I've wanted one since Anthony Sullivan hyped it in infomercials.

http://www.harborfreight.com/5-doub...68316-8065.html

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009


MOTRONIC FOR MODERATOR, MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN


Grimey Drawer

Rhyno posted:

Has anybody bought this yet? I've wanted one since Anthony Sullivan hyped it in infomercials.

http://www.harborfreight.com/5-doub...68316-8065.html

Doesn't that just make a huge kerf for no good reason, other than to people who have very poor saw skills. Looks like all of those kitchen devices (slicers, dicers, etc) designed to replace proper knife skills.

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!

Looks like what it's for is blowing through stuff quickly without giving a gently caress about getting bound up or jerking. Not a saw user though, so just shooting in the dark here.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.


14 INCH DICK TURBO posted:

I just found this hammer and I don't care that it appears to be more for home demo and not automotive, nor do I care enough to decide if it's gimmicky or not because loving look at it.

The Dead On Annihilator.



gently caress yes. And if that wasn't enough.



That's more for home construction and demo, yeah. The gripping section in the middle is for grabbing lumber and twisting it into position while nailing with another tool, it's great when you can't get straight lumber and want both ends of a joist to be vertical or similar.

I have a similar tool - the stanley fubar.



It is GREAT when dealing with warped lumber but I can't think of any use when working on cars, aside from being the 'god dammit' tool.

Also, I'm not really happy with the only Dead On product I have... I have their framing hammer. The head isn't ground completely flat and perpendicular with the handle shank, and the handle shank bends a little bit if you drop it off a roof. This makes it very easy to hit nails wrong and bend them over till you realize what's going on and hit something with the side of the head to straighten it back out a bit.

Bogatyr
Jul 20, 2009


Rhyno posted:

Has anybody bought this yet? I've wanted one since Anthony Sullivan hyped it in infomercials.

http://www.harborfreight.com/5-doub...68316-8065.html

Can't speak to the HF version but I had a Craftsman about 10-12 years ago when these first made the rounds. If you are cutting metal it spews big screaming hot chips everywhere. Mine poo poo the bed when I was cutting holes in computer floor tiles. Kinda heavy sheetmetal, spotwelds an multiple layers of steel in spots so I don't blame the saw so much. But cut like buttah until the gearbox seized.

I think its purpose is better served by a Sawzall...

blindjoe
Jan 10, 2001


CatBus posted:

I ordered one of these this morning, and thought someone else here might be interested in the deal (4 piece Milwaukee M18 reconditioned tool set: $279 shipped):
http://m.northerntool.com/northernt...oductName=false

Hopefully it doesn't suck (I know it won't).

I also hope it doesn't suck as I bought one as well.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.


Bogatyr posted:

Can't speak to the HF version but I had a Craftsman about 10-12 years ago when these first made the rounds. If you are cutting metal it spews big screaming hot chips everywhere. Mine poo poo the bed when I was cutting holes in computer floor tiles. Kinda heavy sheetmetal, spotwelds an multiple layers of steel in spots so I don't blame the saw so much. But cut like buttah until the gearbox seized.

I think its purpose is better served by a Sawzall...

aren't those usually cement-filled? I'm extremely impressed by any saw that can cut cement-filled steel stuff like raised floor tiles and lally columns it's a job I generally leave for an angle grinder with disposable cutting wheels.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Bogatyr
Jul 20, 2009


kastein posted:

aren't those usually cement-filled? I'm extremely impressed by any saw that can cut cement-filled steel stuff like raised floor tiles and lally columns it's a job I generally leave for an angle grinder with disposable cutting wheels.

Some of them are concrete filled, these were not. The concrete ones we have run into were also carpeted.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply