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AnomalousBoners
Dec 22, 2007

by Ozma


I have one for sale in the AI for sale thread. Last page or second to last. Its a craftsman, a good and new one.

Personally I just either A) Use an impact gun, B) Tighten them down very tight. HF also sells $15 ones, not sure if they are any good.

AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 03:03 on Mar 7, 2008

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Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002

Slur, your fighting style is extremely problematic!

Delivery McGee posted:

Can you beef it up/remove the safety while keeping the original trigger? The variable speed is a big thing for me. I'm satisfied (so far) with the power, but I'd love to take out that stupid-rear end safety button.
No idea, but I'm sure it's possible.

I did it because never in my right mind would I use anything between "go" and "stop". Plus I don't have to have my finger on the trigger when the saw is running. Makes overhead cutting much easier.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006



BabyJesus posted:

Can someone recommend a cheapie torque wrench? I'm not looking for much, I just want to be able to torque my lugnuts back to spec so I can rotate my own drat tires.

Harbor Freight, 15 bucks for a "click" wrench. Needle wrench will be even cheaper.

Or just get an HF electric impact for $35, and the 80# Snap-on torque stick for $30. It's a hell of a lot easier than doing it by hand.

Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 14:53 on Mar 7, 2008

Octavio Barnaby Sr.
Feb 23, 2004

Where you're going, there are no jokes.

Nitrox posted:

No idea, but I'm sure it's possible.

I did it because never in my right mind would I use anything between "go" and "stop". Plus I don't have to have my finger on the trigger when the saw is running. Makes overhead cutting much easier.
How have your batteries lasted?
A buddy of mine at the cabinet shop I work at has killed 3 Ryobi li-ion batteries in a few months, and I know he doesn't overcharge them.
I need to replace all of my Dewalt 18.8 stuff, and I'm debating between Makita and Hitachi. I love both Makita and Hitachi, but have never used any Hitachi cordless stuff. For how much cheaper it is, I'd definately give Ryobi stuff a try if it has really gotten better than some of their crappy old stuff.

I'm probably going to get a drill, impact driver, and circular saw, and 3 extra batteries since I go through between 2 and 3 a day on my main drill.
Anyone used the newer (white casing)Makita Li-ion stuff yet?
What about Dewalt's new batteries? http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/a...productID=17720

miklm
Dec 7, 2003

What a cunning fellow.

Dark Solux posted:

They have this promotion in stores? I looked online and didn't see anything. That looks like a killer deal, I should go pick it up today. My tool storage situation is a sad sight.

Well, I was at the store TWICE on Saturday and looked at that combo both times. It was $119, and I went so far as to ask a clerk, "That's for the whole kit?" and "How much longer will it be on sale?" (March 15 was the answer, and I wanted to know because I was in my car with no way to get it home. I declined the offer to pay for it now and pick up later.)

So I went this afternoon to buy it, and the price was $199, AFTER $20 mail-in rebate. I found the manager and asked him if that wasn't $119 on the weekend and he just looked confused and said it wasn't.

So, either I'm crazy or Sears pulled a fast one on me. It is listed for $199 online too, so I guess the store had made a mistake which got caught since Saturday. Regardless, I bought it, then found out I'll have to pick up the intermediate chest from another local store since they didn't have one in stock. So I got the top and bottom parts home and set up and all my tools migrated over and mostly organized. I'll get the intermediate chest tomorrow afternoon.

So, sorry if I got your hopes up about finding it for $119. I should have bought it on Saturday.

I also got a set of Craftsman ratcheting wrenches. When I go pick up the intermediate chest, I've got to get another screwdriver organizer, a wrench organizer, and some of that padding for the bottom of the drawers. Bankruptcy awaits with these frequent visits to Sears...

miklm
Dec 7, 2003

What a cunning fellow.

leica posted:

Harbor Freight, 40 bucks for a "click" wrench. Needle wrench will be even cheaper.

Or just get an HF electric impact for $35, and the 80# Snap-on torque stick for $30. It's a hell of a lot easier than doing it by hand.

I have one of those generic clickers, identical to HF but mine is a "Cummins Tool" brand. Its been pretty decent, and I've so far resisted the urge to use it as a huge 1/2" breaker/general ratchet. I imagine its probably +/- 10lbs or so, but lug nuts aren't THAT exact of a science; its better than the tire/lube store monkeys cranking them on with an impact so tight they snap.

I've got to buy one of those 80# sticks ... Where can you get Snap-on tools without working in a shop and being on the tool truck's route?

Dark Solux
Dec 8, 2004

Old School Saturn God

miklm posted:

Well, I was at the store TWICE on Saturday and looked at that combo both times. It was $119, and I went so far as to ask a clerk, "That's for the whole kit?" and "How much longer will it be on sale?" (March 15 was the answer, and I wanted to know because I was in my car with no way to get it home. I declined the offer to pay for it now and pick up later.)

So I went this afternoon to buy it, and the price was $199, AFTER $20 mail-in rebate. I found the manager and asked him if that wasn't $119 on the weekend and he just looked confused and said it wasn't.

So, either I'm crazy or Sears pulled a fast one on me. It is listed for $199 online too, so I guess the store had made a mistake which got caught since Saturday. Regardless, I bought it, then found out I'll have to pick up the intermediate chest from another local store since they didn't have one in stock. So I got the top and bottom parts home and set up and all my tools migrated over and mostly organized. I'll get the intermediate chest tomorrow afternoon.

So, sorry if I got your hopes up about finding it for $119. I should have bought it on Saturday.

I also got a set of Craftsman ratcheting wrenches. When I go pick up the intermediate chest, I've got to get another screwdriver organizer, a wrench organizer, and some of that padding for the bottom of the drawers. Bankruptcy awaits with these frequent visits to Sears...

Yeah I went to sears today to look at tool boxes but they didn't have any three piece combos for less than like 300$. Oh well. There's always the US General boxes at HF

Chillbro Baggins
Oct 8, 2004
Bad Angus! Bad!


Dark Solux posted:

Yeah I went to sears today to look at tool boxes but they didn't have any three piece combos for less than like 300$. Oh well. There's always the US General boxes at HF

Check Tractor Supply, if there's one in town. They had some nice metal toolboxes at decent prices last time I was there.

D C
Jun 19, 2004

1-800-HOTLINEBLING
1-800-HOTLINEBLING
1-800-HOTLINEBLING


I love my Wiha screwdrivers, super grippy, also they have a steel end cap for hammering and such.


Also my Wiha hex keys, best ever, extra long, super strong, also they come in a nice holder, ball end is a must.

My sockets and wrenches such are Craftsman, or Mastercraft (Canadian Tire), have yet to break anything, although I don't do anything too rough with them.

Lyesh
Apr 9, 2003



miklm posted:

I've got to buy one of those 80# sticks ... Where can you get Snap-on tools without working in a shop and being on the tool truck's route?

Snapon.com, of course.

Hypnolobster
Apr 12, 2007

What this sausage party needs is a big dollop of ketchup! Too bad I didn't make any.


Cenuji posted:

Snapon.com, of course.

Yep. I ordered two torque sticks just a little while ago. Supposedly, they've already arrived at home.

Chillbro Baggins
Oct 8, 2004
Bad Angus! Bad!


Nitrox posted:

No idea, but I'm sure it's possible.

I did it because never in my right mind would I use anything between "go" and "stop". Plus I don't have to have my finger on the trigger when the saw is running. Makes overhead cutting much easier.

Well, I got the safety out. It's not electrical at all, just a spring-loaded bit that blocks the trigger when it's centered. Easy to remove, and I recommend doing so.

But don't pull the trigger assembly out if you're not replacing it with a toggle switch. The wires coming off the battery are just kind of stuck into spring clips in the switch body, and it's a bitch and a half to make them stick back in once you've accidentally pulled them out. I ended up using a pair of little needlenose pliers to stuff the loose wire in good and tight, and tested it five times before putting it back together.

Another lesson learned from that project: If you're going to fill the safety-button holes with epoxy (gently caress the warranty!), do it while you've got it split in twain -- JB Weld is affected by gravity to a surprising degree, and doesn't take kindly to being on opposite sides of something.

You know, I never have been able to get JB Weld to work right. Do I just fail at estimating amounts, or is it worthy of the "tools that suck" thread? Edit: Probably the latter -- my dad can do it. Also, it's made locally in Sulfur Springs, TX. I think it's the best thing ever to come out of northeast Texas, but that's not saying much.

Edit again: Now that I think about it, I'm going to vote "it's awesome and I suck" on JB Weld. Here's the transfer case of my Jeep repaired with the stuff after the limited-slip doohickey blew and shattered the case like an eggshell. The doohickey only drove the front wheels; it worked just fine like this, albeit RWD-only, for several months until I found a replacement.



Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 12:01 on Mar 7, 2008

BabyJesus
Nov 13, 2002


Funny you mention all the tire+lube grease monkeys. They all use torque wrenches by me. I've seen them do it. Maybe they finally caught word it's faster to torque the lugnut properly than to replace a wheel stud/lugnut

ChiliMac
Apr 13, 2005

That's why I never kiss 'em on the mouth.

I don't think anyone has mentioned yet: Locking Pliers

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ct...Itemnumber=5823

Those are actual vise-grip brand but I picked up a set of 4/7/10" HF knock-offs (Pittsburgh) for like 5 dollars and they work just awesome.

Another awesome deal from harbor freight is the rotary tool sets:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ct...temnumber=93243

That's not the exact one I got and I got mine on sale for 8 dollars I think but it's awesome for the price. The bits aren't perfect but considering the abuse they go through and add in that half of them are intended to be wear items (used up) and it's a steal.

Similar if you need hardware/fastening components where the quality is not critical it's hard to beat HF e.g. zipties (1000+ for ~5 bucks?), cotter pins, hitch pins, o-rings, etc.

I also got a hobby vise that I've beat on for motorcycle stuff and it's pretty nice and half the price of the craftsman one that is similar.

BabyJesus posted:

Funny you mention all the tire+lube grease monkeys. They all use torque wrenches by me. I've seen them do it. Maybe they finally caught word it's faster to torque the lugnut properly than to replace a wheel stud/lugnut

My last two experiences with lug nuts tightened by someone other than myself:
1) Cross-threaded two front studs (and others were obviously deformed as the threads were not smooth) one of which I managed to remove with difficulty and the other was hosed so much it was burning hot and unrecognizable by the time I got the nut off. Unfortunately this must have happened right before I actually bought the car so I had no recourse. Fortunately front studs are drat simple to install on a Miata.
2) Tightened so hard that I was moving the car against the e-brake without the nuts breaking free--I had to go buy a 3 foot pipe so I could get enough impulse torque to remove them. No damage done fortunately so I re-torqued by hand.

Goob
Jul 10, 2001

The M-1 does my talking.

leica posted:

Harbor Freight, 40 bucks for a "click" wrench. Needle wrench will be even cheaper.
$40? Try $10 for a 1/2 drive or $15 for a 3/8 drive.

Fun tip for people who go to Harbor Freight. Print out whatever you're looking for from the website. If the in-store price is more expensive than the website price, they will honor the website price.

BabyJesus
Nov 13, 2002


Can I use my standard sockets on a 1/2" or 3/8" drive torque wrench. Sorry, I'm a noob when it comes to them. Never had one

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006



Goob posted:

$40? Try $10 for a 1/2 drive or $15 for a 3/8 drive.

Ooops, my bad. I just checked my receipt and it was $14.99. I think I got it confused with the Craftsman I ended up not buying.....Editing that post now.

I guess it's better than finding out I actually paid MORE than I thought.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





BabyJesus posted:

Can I use my standard sockets on a 1/2" or 3/8" drive torque wrench. Sorry, I'm a noob when it comes to them. Never had one

Yup, torque wrenches don't need any special sockets.

Doctor Grape Ape
Aug 26, 2005

Dammit Doc, I just bought this for you 3 months ago. Try and keep it around for a bit longer this time.


Edit: Oh, there's a page 4.

Jim Silly-Balls
Jun 6, 2001

Fondle my shiny metal ass



Goob posted:

$40? Try $10 for a 1/2 drive or $15 for a 3/8 drive.

Fun tip for people who go to Harbor Freight. Print out whatever you're looking for from the website. If the in-store price is more expensive than the website price, they will honor the website price.

Yes, please remember this, people. Sometimes the difference is quite a bit. I bought a sand blast gun for $9.99 that was listed at around $35 in the store.

miklm
Dec 7, 2003

What a cunning fellow.

BabyJesus posted:

Can I use my standard sockets on a 1/2" or 3/8" drive torque wrench. Sorry, I'm a noob when it comes to them. Never had one

You can, but get some deep-well sockets to make your life much easier. You might HAVE to have deep-wells depending on how your wheel studs are; on my cars I've converted to longer studs and a standard socket won't fit.

I actually use impact sockets with my torque wrench, but that's usually because I run them down with the impact and then pop the socket onto the clicker and finish them. I've done it enough times I can get pretty close to 80# with the impact now. I'm not sure I have another deep-well 19mm socket actually, so I probably have to use my impact set. Something else to pick up at HF or Sears today...

*edit*
Anybody have these Craftsman offset ratcheting box wrenches? I bought them yesterday.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00943376000P
I fully expect that plastic to break eventually, but hey, free replacement...

Hypnolobster posted:

Yep. I ordered two torque sticks just a little while ago. Supposedly, they've already arrived at home.

Hey, free shipping. I wasn't expecting that. Order placed. I was going to get the set from HF, but I only really need the 80# and one from Snap-On is cheaper than the set from HF, and has to be better quality. I'll use the piss out of this.

miklm fucked around with this message at 16:19 on Mar 7, 2008

Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002

Slur, your fighting style is extremely problematic!

Octavio Barnaby Sr. posted:

How have your batteries lasted?
A buddy of mine at the cabinet shop I work at has killed 3 Ryobi li-ion batteries in a few months, and I know he doesn't overcharge them.
I need to replace all of my Dewalt 18.8 stuff, and I'm debating between Makita and Hitachi. I love both Makita and Hitachi, but have never used any Hitachi cordless stuff. For how much cheaper it is, I'd definately give Ryobi stuff a try if it has really gotten better than some of their crappy old stuff.

I'm probably going to get a drill, impact driver, and circular saw, and 3 extra batteries since I go through between 2 and 3 a day on my main drill.
Anyone used the newer (white casing)Makita Li-ion stuff yet?
What about Dewalt's new batteries? http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/a...productID=17720
I have about 5 weeks on my li-ion batteries and they are holding up fine. Online reviews that I linked above also mentioned batteries dying at random. If anything going to happen to my batteries, I'll just march back to the store and get them replaced.

A guy I work with has a bunch of Makita cordless tools, and they do rock. Not as much as 28v Milwaukee, but close.

Why are you replacing all of your Dewalt tools all of a sudden?

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.


miklm posted:

*edit*
Anybody have these Craftsman offset ratcheting box wrenches? I bought them yesterday.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00943376000P
I fully expect that plastic to break eventually, but hey, free replacement...

I bought a set at HF last year. I used them once and immediately went and bought another set for my junkyard toolbox. They are amazing for any tight areas you can't easily get a socket into.

I bought one of these on impulse and loved it so much I stopped using my normal adjustable wrenches. The action was a bit sticky at first, but after being soaked in vehicle related fluids it smoothed right up.

EvilDonald
Aug 30, 2002

I'm the urban spaceman, baby.

BabyJesus posted:

Funny you mention all the tire+lube grease monkeys. They all use torque wrenches by me. I've seen them do it. Maybe they finally caught word it's faster to torque the lugnut properly than to replace a wheel stud/lugnut

Do they actually torque the lugnut properly or do they simply use the torque wrench as a ratchet? I've never seen a tire monkey use a torque wrench correctly. Ever.

hippynerd
Nov 5, 2004

by Ozma


oxbrain posted:

I bought one of these on impulse and loved it so much I stopped using my normal adjustable wrenches. The action was a bit sticky at first, but after being soaked in vehicle related fluids it smoothed right up.


I noticed some of those last summer, but didnt get them, I was wondering how well they work.

I just got back from HF a copule hours ago, and poof, there goes $80.

But, I got a bunch of stuff, I got a new airhorn, a set of 1/2 metric sockets, a 1/2" cordless impact(with a free 1 yr extended warrenty), a couple clamps that I have no idea what they are called, but they are like a C-clamp, only more like an E-Clamp, with 3 screws (2 oposing, 1 perpendicular.), some cheap-o ring clip plyers, and a 10-pack of cutoff wheels.

I didnt get the 1/2" electric (ac) drive as its now $70 (wish I kept the one I got for $35!)

I looked at, but didnt get the torque extensions. I've actually seen them before and thought, pretty... whatever. I couldnt tell by looking at them how they work though, it looks like one solid piece. How do those work?

VVV must feel kinda weird... I'll have to try one of those someday.

hippynerd fucked around with this message at 00:44 on Mar 8, 2008

Goob
Jul 10, 2001

The M-1 does my talking.

hippynerd posted:

I looked at, but didnt get the torque extensions. I've actually seen them before and thought, pretty... whatever. I couldnt tell by looking at them how they work though, it looks like one solid piece. How do those work?
The metal of the torque stick is actually "springy" enough to twist when the amount of torque applied is greater than whatever it is rated.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.


hippynerd posted:

I noticed some of those last summer, but didnt get them, I was wondering how well they work.

Just like a standard adjustable wrench, only faster. The only downside is it's too easy to bump the slider and lose the adjustment.

hippynerd
Nov 5, 2004

by Ozma


oxbrain posted:

Just like a standard adjustable wrench, only faster. The only downside is it's too easy to bump the slider and lose the adjustment.

gee, thats the exact same problem I have with regular open-end adjustable wrenches. I even have some that kind of like a cross between cressent and pipewrench, they do the same thing too.
If it had some kind of locking mechanism (similar to the vicegrips/wrench posted above) I might like it.

Blooot
Mar 19, 2001



Nitrox posted:

Can anyone recommend me a good soldering iron? I would like to get a good cheap one if there is such thing.

Weller makes quality inexpensive irons. It is worth spending more that $50 on one though.

Another cheap option -- and particularly good for auto applications -- is a cordless butane powered iron. I've used one before at my old job, but I don't recall the brand. Perhaps someone could recommend one since I am currently in the market for a new iron to replace a 10 year old broken (my fault) Weller station.

hippynerd
Nov 5, 2004

by Ozma


Blooot posted:

Weller makes quality inexpensive irons. It is worth spending more that $50 on one though.

Another cheap option -- and particularly good for auto applications -- is a cordless butane powered iron. I've used one before at my old job, but I don't recall the brand. Perhaps someone could recommend one since I am currently in the market for a new iron to replace a 10 year old broken (my fault) Weller station.

Doh! I was going to mention something like that but forgot after reading more posts

I really miss my old archer (radio shack), It had a 60 watt element that got to over 1000 degrees, it burned up tips, but tips are cheap. now I have a couple really crappy $20 units. I saw a decent looking unit at HF today for $50, but decent looking doesnt mean decent working. I've seen usable weller units for as little as $100, one time there was a sweet deal for like $50, but I never checked it out. Nicer units go for over $500.

I've never used this brand, but it looks like a pretty decent deal.
http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/7508
Even get a free digital multi-meter ($25 value!)

AnomalousBoners
Dec 22, 2007

by Ozma


Snap-On make a self igniting pencil style butane soldering torch that I used once, it was a friends, for $60+ I wasn't impressed. It didn't work any better than your average $10 electric. It wasn't particularly faster either. I suppose if your a mechanic where time is very valuable and you only use it every now and again it might be worth the extra, but outside of that one scenario, I would but a regular plug in electric.

Michael Bolton
Aug 1, 2004
PC Load Letter? What the fuck does that mean?

SNiPER_Magnum posted:

What is the difference between 12pt and 6pt sockets? I'm guessing 6pt would be less likely to round a nut and 12pt is easier to slip on a nut. There doesn't seem to be much of a difference in price.
There are some bolts that are 12-point. The bolts that hold the wheel bearing to the steering knuckle in a 90-93 Accord spring to mind.

Also, a 12-point socket can be used to drive bits that are 4-sided. I used a 12-point socket with an easy-out bit that was 4-sided.

DJ Commie
Feb 29, 2004

Stupid drivers always breaking car, Gronk fix car...


I have 2 Wellers at work, one that uses numbered tips for temperature control, and one with a fine-temperature control knob for SMD and stuff. I have a mindbogglingly hot Hakko at home, was only $20 at Frys.


edit: I use a butane pencil torch for battery terminals and other big wiring stuff, and have a 110 watt soldering gun for BIG poo poo that can't get hit with the butane torch.

SNiPER_Magnum
Jan 21, 2001

Don't close. Don't close.

Nap Ghost

Michael Bolton posted:

Also, a 12-point socket can be used to drive bits that are 4-sided. I used a 12-point socket with an easy-out bit that was 4-sided.

This makes sense, I guess. A lot of drain plugs are four sided. I just use an open-end wrench on those.

I understood 12pt box-end wrenches because there are only so many angles you can use them at, but a ratchet and socket doesn't have the same restraint.

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.


SNiPER_Magnum posted:

I understood 12pt box-end wrenches because there are only so many angles you can use them at, but a ratchet and socket doesn't have the same restraint.

When you've just gashed your forearm wide open squeezing your hand to the back of the engine to get at a bolt it's annoying to have to pull your arm back out to rotate the socket 1 click.

hippynerd
Nov 5, 2004

by Ozma


Baby Hitler posted:

I have 2 Wellers at work, one that uses numbered tips for temperature control, and one with a fine-temperature control knob for SMD and stuff. I have a mindbogglingly hot Hakko at home, was only $20 at Frys.


edit: I use a butane pencil torch for battery terminals and other big wiring stuff, and have a 110 watt soldering gun for BIG poo poo that can't get hit with the butane torch.

OMG! You found a use for a soldering gun.

DJ Commie
Feb 29, 2004

Stupid drivers always breaking car, Gronk fix car...


hippynerd posted:

OMG! You found a use for a soldering gun.

Yeah, they really are only good for stained glass, and the torch ususally works better for anything that can take direct flame like battery terminals.

hippynerd
Nov 5, 2004

by Ozma


Baby Hitler posted:

Yeah, they really are only good for stained glass, and the torch ususally works better for anything that can take direct flame like battery terminals.

I helped someone do a bunch of stained glass (in exchange for them showing me how...) and it was pretty cool. He used a huge iron (about 1/2" tip), which was way bigger than we needed, but worked fine.

AnomalousBoners
Dec 22, 2007

by Ozma


Harbor Freight Electronic Ear Muffs:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ct...temnumber=92851

These things are awesome. I got them on super sale for $9.99 and they easily perform as well as your average $50 that you'd get a bass pro or a shooting store. I have used them with my 12 gauge for over 150 rounds easily.

Harbor Freight Regular Ear Muffs:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ct...temnumber=43768

I needed a set in case I take someone else shooting or a set to leave in my car, but didn't want to spend money. These worked fine today with my 12 gauge.

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Mad Dragon
Feb 29, 2004



Michael Bolton posted:

Also, a 12-point socket can be used to drive bits that are 4-sided. I used a 12-point socket with an easy-out bit that was 4-sided.
12-point wrenches can be used on e-torx bolts. I have an 8mm ratcheting wrench that I bought for E90 steering columns.

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