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At some point I plan to have everything I need to completely build a car from scratch, minus the ability to cast/forge components. (there are already people who do it well, I don't need to reinvent the wheel) At that point I'll have all manner of big machine tools, so I'll be able to turn rotors. If I had the equipment now I would machine them down a little every time I did pads just to make sure the mating surface bedded in properly.
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Feb 5, 2010 16:19
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I have a habit of abusing my brakes and warping rotors, so I keep a spare set of rotors. I will have the set sitting off the car machined before I do the next brake job. That way, I always have perfect rotors to install, without having to worry about transportation to and from the machine shop.
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Feb 5, 2010 16:34
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ab0z posted:There's an alignment machine on the local CL for $500, "needs to be calibrated". Sooo tempted... ab0z posted:There's one of those up for sale too... What kind of alignment system is it? There are usually fixtures that are sold with the system that you use to calibrate. They are all pretty easy to calibrate. The software will walk you through it. I can help you out if you tell me what kind of system it is?
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Feb 5, 2010 20:34
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I have the oddest feeling that "needs to be calibrated" means, "broken and can't be calibrated" This is craigslist, after all.
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Feb 5, 2010 22:56
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I'm not sure how many of you AI guys pop your head in DIY, so in the guise of thinking you might find this interesting, allow me to pimp the thread about my new (old) lathe.
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Feb 6, 2010 04:42
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Lt. Scheisskopf posted:What kind of alignment system is it? There are usually fixtures that are sold with the system that you use to calibrate. They are all pretty easy to calibrate. The software will walk you through it. I can help you out if you tell me what kind of system it is? Sorry, I can't find the listing now (I looked it up on my work PC originally). Lyesh posted:I have the oddest feeling that "needs to be calibrated" means, "broken and can't be calibrated" It looked a little rough in the picture, but it was a pretty small picture.
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Feb 6, 2010 07:40
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You cant really turn rotors on a standard 13x40 lathe or what have you. Both sides need to be trued at the same unless bolt face is truly parallel with both sides as well as flat across both faces. Since its not you cant really take it off the machine to do it. Thus you need to make a custom cutting attachment to cut both sides at the same time which is totally doable if you have a mill and lathe. You cant turn them correctly using a regular lathe, cross slide and tool post, they likely will end up with the two surfaces not being parallel because youd have to flip the rotor. Just like you typically use a gear shop to make gears, you typically use a brake lathe to true rotors cause it can machine both at the same time.
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Feb 6, 2010 17:57
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I thought flipping the rotor around to do the other side would be an issue. I am supposed to be getting a milling machine in 6-12 months from the same person I bought my lathe from, so I should be able to make that special tooling you speak of.
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Feb 6, 2010 18:28
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Just took notice of this thread, any other machinists in here? Any chance anyone has spotted a good deal on a magnetic dial indicator stand w/ fine adjustment, or perhaps a quality set of inside micrometers? dv6speed: You should just look to buy a proper brake lathe for faster and better results with a lot less headache.
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Feb 6, 2010 19:09
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tesko.pk posted:Just took notice of this thread, any other machinists in here? I got some Spi ones with a tool chest I bought on craigslist. Id check there I see machinists going out of business or retiring and selling their tools pretty often. I use a HF indicator and stand at home, great setup for $25 minus 20%. I just went to machinist school, Im an engineering intern/draftsman at a manufacturing company.
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Feb 7, 2010 01:38
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Not sure the best place to post this but there's a good deal on K&N oil filters at Amazon. From Fatwallet http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/hot-deals/987752/ you can find the oil filters for ~$10 each plus buy 3 and get $5 off. In most auto part stores these are $15+ filters, but in my experience worth the extra money for cars you care about. I just bought 6 of them and should be stocked up for a few years of oil changes.
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Feb 7, 2010 04:47
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RealKyleH posted:I got some Spi ones with a tool chest I bought on craigslist. Id check there I see machinists going out of business or retiring and selling their tools pretty often. I use a HF indicator and stand at home, great setup for $25 minus 20%. I just went to machinist school, Im an engineering intern/draftsman at a manufacturing company. Right on, I end up doing a fair bit of drafting in the shop as well, stuff by hand though. I'm guessing you're fairly well versed with AutoCAD, Solid Works, Pro-E and the like? Sadly craigslist in my city is pretty weak sauce, im in calgary and it's simply not caught on out here as much as other "large" canadian cities. If anyone could point me in the right direction for an online store with a good shipping policy for us in canuckistan, i'd certainly appreciate it. eBay is a decent way to go, don't get me wrong, but it can be fairly hit and miss so I try to avoid it.
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Feb 7, 2010 09:40
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tesko.pk posted:Sadly craigslist in my city is pretty weak sauce, im in calgary and it's simply not caught on out here as much as other "large" canadian cities. Have you checked http://www.kijiji.ca/ ?
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Feb 7, 2010 09:43
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tesko.pk posted:Right on, I end up doing a fair bit of drafting in the shop as well, stuff by hand though. I'm guessing you're fairly well versed with AutoCAD, Solid Works, Pro-E and the like? I do almost all autocad as they didnt want to or need to buy me a seat of Inventor >  . That aside, I used SolidWorks/CAM works quite a bit in machinist school. I actually just heard of Pro-E last week, you take a class on it in college but im not there yet.
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Feb 7, 2010 16:25
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Are the Harbor Freight multimeters any good, or is it worth buying something more expensive?
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Feb 7, 2010 19:31
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FogHelmut posted:Are the Harbor Freight multimeters any good, or is it worth buying something more expensive? If you need to know if your battery is putting out 12v or 14v, they're ok. If you want a quality tool that will last for years, they're not.
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Feb 7, 2010 19:48
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The HF meters do OK with measuring volts, but they suck at ohms. I've compared readings with my Fluke 77. But, it will tell you if you have an open circuit or not.
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Feb 7, 2010 22:28
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RealKyleH posted:I do almost all autocad as they didnt want to or need to buy me a seat of Inventor >
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Feb 8, 2010 00:01
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mod sassinator posted:Not sure the best place to post this but there's a good deal on K&N oil filters at Amazon. From Fatwallet http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/hot-deals/987752/ you can find the oil filters for ~$10 each plus buy 3 and get $5 off. In most auto part stores these are $15+ filters, but in my experience worth the extra money for cars you care about. I just bought 6 of them and should be stocked up for a few years of oil changes. What is your experience with K&N oil filters that leads you to believe they are better than other, cheaper, oil filter?
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Feb 8, 2010 16:45
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frozenphil posted:What is your experience with K&N oil filters that leads you to believe they are better than other, cheaper, oil filter? I always send my oil out for analysis and haven't had any signs of wear or abuse yet. I don't think it's all from the filter though, in general yeah a cheap filter is fine. With the K&N filters I like the intgrated nut that makes removal easy.
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Feb 8, 2010 18:40
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mod sassinator posted:I always send my oil out for analysis and haven't had any signs of wear or abuse yet. I don't think it's all from the filter though, in general yeah a cheap filter is fine. With the K&N filters I like the intgrated nut that makes removal easy. The nut is what sold me on them. 2 oil changes ago on the Cherokee the filter was jammed on so bad that in trying to force it off I broke the dipstick handle off. Took forever to get the old dipstick out and replaced.
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Feb 8, 2010 23:30
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That nut is pretty awesome, but I got a case (12) of carquest filters for my truck for the same price as I usually got 2 K&N oil filters. But on that note, are Carquest filters any good? My basic knowledge of oil filters is FRAM=BAD.
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Feb 9, 2010 04:26
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I think Carquest is Wix, like NAPA Gold.
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Feb 9, 2010 04:52
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Personally, whenever I install an oil filter, I don't over tighten it, I lubricate the gasket, and never have a problem getting it off in the future. It's when you have to change somebody else's oil, and some other rear end in a top hat torqued that filter down that you gotta worry about getting it off. But, chances are that rear end in a top hat didn't use that nice filter with the hex head on it, and you'll still have to break out some type of oil filter wrench, or a screw driver. Personally, I like the oil filter wrenches that have the 3 grippers, hook up to a ratchet, and its grip on the filter gets tighter as you try to turn it.
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Feb 9, 2010 05:35
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RealKyleH posted:I do almost all autocad as they didnt want to or need to buy me a seat of Inventor > I use Solidworks daily at work. It's fantastic in the sense that it can import/export a ridiculous amount of formats, but it is quite limited in certain areas. I get frustrated fairly often at it.
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Feb 9, 2010 05:58
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dv6speed posted:Personally, whenever I install an oil filter, I don't over tighten it, I lubricate the gasket, and never have a problem getting it off in the future. I do the same, the problems I had came from having a "professional" oil change.
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Feb 9, 2010 06:07
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dv6speed posted:Personally, I like the oil filter wrenches that have the 3 grippers, hook up to a ratchet, and its grip on the filter gets tighter as you try to turn it. I got one of these at Harbor Freight. Takes some fuckery to get it in the right position but it rules.
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Feb 9, 2010 06:57
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The trick is to put it in position with your hands around the filter, get it semi tight, hold it on there with one hand, THEN put on the ratchet and remove filter.
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Feb 9, 2010 07:02
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dv6speed posted:Personally, I like the oil filter wrenches that have the 3 grippers, hook up to a ratchet, and its grip on the filter gets tighter as you try to turn it. Yeah, so did the dickhole at a Ford dealership that stole mine out of my wife's escort. It was a Snap-On too. Fucker.
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Feb 9, 2010 14:44
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dv6speed posted:Personally, whenever I install an oil filter, I don't over tighten it, I lubricate the gasket, and never have a problem getting it off in the future. Changed oil the same way prob 50+ times. Never had a problem on my Sable, never had a problem on my mark viii, but on my WRX its hit and miss. Though none was worse that the previous owner and his mobil 1 which broke some autozone oil filter socket (the WORST piece of poo poo I have ever seen in my life, theyre the poorest designed too I have ever seen) This is the only thing that got it off http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=66568
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Feb 9, 2010 15:09
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Petit.Conan posted:That nut is pretty awesome, but I got a case (12) of carquest filters for my truck for the same price as I usually got 2 K&N oil filters. They are WIX filters, so they are fine. Note: the admonition of this filter in the link is for that specific application. Whether or not the Carquest filter is good depends on the design of your application's housing. And in general, this is all you need to know about oil filters. It was last updated in 2008, but oil filters aren't exactly a rapidly evolving technology.
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Feb 9, 2010 16:23
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We use carquest filters on one of our drill rigs for the last 4 years now. They were cheaper and easier to find than Isuzu. We just replaced the engine from an unrelated matter. They are good however. Three cyl. diesel just for reference.
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Feb 10, 2010 15:58
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Ugh, my first car was a 84 mustang, I got in like 99. I think it had the original oil filter, and it wouldn't budge with any style wrench. I was 17, and someone suggested the screwdriver trick (don't do this), and it just tore the filter in half. Ended up having to remove the oil pump to get it off.
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Feb 10, 2010 16:41
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ease posted:Ugh, my first car was a 84 mustang, I got in like 99. I think it had the original oil filter, and it wouldn't budge with any style wrench. I was 17, and someone suggested the screwdriver trick (don't do this), and it just tore the filter in half. Ended up having to remove the oil pump to get it off. One of the best methods (if you have the room) is to use a cold chisel on the filter base plate. I wrap the edge in tape to keep from gouging the filter housing.
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Feb 10, 2010 19:11
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Man makes hammers, does good job.  http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=48306 Video of how he's fitting the heads to the handles. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4fvdRRUgqw8 He is also making some impressive punches. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=53442 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoEvPhb8lWI
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Feb 10, 2010 19:21
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That is a nice hammer. Gave me some ideas for some future lathe projects. I like the idea of removable faces, that is really cool. However, I'm still partial to wooden handles, even if I have to maintain them every so often. I guess I just like how wood feels in my hand. 
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Feb 10, 2010 19:27
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Yeah.. I can't really see a whole lot of uses for the hammer except for some really fine work and drooling over it. The punches however, look absolutely wonderful and if they're under $100 I'm going to have to consider it.
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Feb 10, 2010 19:30
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That hammer is nice but the pin punch and handle is really awesome. Too bad I almost never need a pin punch...
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Feb 10, 2010 20:31
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Yea I def wanna spend $130 + shipping on a hammer and some retarded amount on pin punches. Neat and pretty ideas but I bet the taper is on the pin punches for a reason. What if the hole he needs to punch whatever out of is slightly undersized or exactly to size? A .1245 punch may get stuck in a .1250 hole. An SPI or whatever with the taper won't.
AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 21:26 on Feb 10, 2010 |
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Feb 10, 2010 21:22
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RealKyleH posted:Yea I def wanna spend $130 + shipping on a hammer and some retarded amount on pin punches. Neat and pretty ideas but I bet the taper is on the pin punches for a reason. What if the hole he needs to punch whatever out of is slightly undersized or exactly to size? A .1245 punch may get stuck in a .1250 hole. An SPI or whatever with the taper won't. I understand why they would design punches like that. I'm guessing this is the reason why he made them with tool steel(to try and prevent as much mushrooming as possible) and made them replaceable if one does mushroom. I just like sexy handmade tools.
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Feb 10, 2010 21:54
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