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AnomalousBoners
Dec 22, 2007

by Ozma


revmoo posted:

The handle hex end is rounding off on mine. It barely rotates left and right now on the jack.

IIRC on that one its a square, not sure how it could round off unless its very very loose fitting.

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frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!


Why would you recommend a jack with a 1.5 ton capacity to a dude asking about a 3 ton jack?

SNiPER_Magnum
Jan 21, 2001

Don't close. Don't close.

Nap Ghost

Just use 2!

17-1/2" max height is kinda puny for offroad use too.

Black88GTA
Oct 8, 2009


BigKOfJustice posted:

Any recommendations for a aluminum service jack? That's serviceable? The 2 companies I buy shop jacks from doesn't have an aluminum model.

I'm looking for something around a 3 ton capacity for desert racing, it seems to be a real toss up between buying and replacing cheap chinese jacks a few times a year or shell out $800-1400 for a high end jack.

There's got to be something between Harbor Freight and Craftsman vs Pace and brunnhoelzl right?

I have the Arcan ALJ3T. I think I paid maybe $150 a couple years ago at Costco for it, although I don't know if they still stock it. I assume they do?

Good pics here (start 5 posts down): http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/...15963&showall=1

Specs here (4th one down): http://www.arcanusa.com/lifting.html

3 ton capacity and 3.75" min height, so it fits under and lifts almost anything (although I have to "coax" it a bit under my speedbump-scraping lowered Prelude). I think it's Chinese, but I haven't had a speck of trouble out of it, and it really does seem pretty sturdy / well made.

giundy
Dec 10, 2005


Whats the best place I can get some heavy duty torx drivers? T40 specifically for removing a 30 year old differential cover.

Black88GTA
Oct 8, 2009


giundy posted:

Whats the best place I can get some heavy duty torx drivers? T40 specifically for removing a 30 year old differential cover.

Craftsman are decently strong and easily sourced at Sears or K-Mart. Don't bother with the cheap ones, as they like to twist up / snap under load.

Spray the poo poo out of those bolts with PB Blaster a couple days before you attempt the job though. I didn't do that with mine, and nearly stripped out an Allen bolt in my differential this past weekend. They are all now soaking in lots of blaster, which will hopefully loosen them up by this weekend when I try it again.

Money Walrus
Sep 2, 2007


Speaking of PB blaster, my new thing is the half acetone half ATF mix. I think it works way better than anything else I've tried- I managed to pull out 8 seized exhaust studs from a 133k mile engine without using heat or vice grips or anything. Highly recommended.

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!

Fats posted:

I guess I have an irrational fear of lead as well, but I've got a couple soft copper mallets that work alright.

What I was getting at is that with other poisons you get symptoms, with lead you go "hmm, am I dumber today?" every time you forget something or can't think straight or etc. Oh god constant nagging worry!

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.


Splizwarf posted:

What I was getting at is that with other poisons you get symptoms, with lead you go "hmm, am I dumber today?" every time you forget something or can't think straight or etc. Oh god constant nagging worry!

That's if you got it as a kid. Adults just get cranky, depressed, and sick.

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!

Splizwarf posted:

What I was getting at is that with other poisons you get symptoms, with lead you go "hmm, am I dumber today?" every time you forget something or can't think straight or etc. Oh god constant nagging worry!

Are you sure you're not confusing lead poisoning with mercury poisoning? Or is mercury poisoning just the one where you start forgetting things... like the alphabet?

Big K of Justice
Nov 27, 2005

Anyone seen my ball joints?


SNiPER_Magnum posted:

Just use 2!

17-1/2" max height is kinda puny for offroad use too.

As someone else stated, 1.5 tons is kinda useless [for big off road racecars/trucks] as my friend figured out. Would be fine for pushing a control arm in place while everything else is on jackstands.


Click here for the full 2048x1536 image.




The height isn't a big issue, most teams either fab up an extension adapter, buy one or use a block of 4x4 wood.

Kartek makes a few accessories for the craftsman 3 ton jack including dirt wings, dirt sled, monster truck wheels [to add height]. But the problem is the build quality went downhill on the craftsman jacks, I believe there's a brand new model just hitting stores now.

I think I may go for the harbor freight 3 ton for now, take the bolts off and redo them with red loctite and save up my pennies for one of these:



It's a brunnhoelzl on a custom fabricated dolly.

Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 17:23 on Apr 8, 2010

UnderToad
Mar 3, 2010


Jack Pads.

True you could probably make your own. I don't like scraping the crap out of my frame. I will try these and see how they do. They have some for jack stands too, not sure if I would as feel comfortable with them on stands though.


http://www.protechproducts.net/jack_pads.php

wav3form
Aug 10, 2008


frozenphil posted:

Why would you recommend a jack with a 1.5 ton capacity to a dude asking about a 3 ton jack?

My bad... I had 3000 pounds stuck in my head and his question had a 3 in it and I wasn't paying attention. It is a nice jack for regular cars though.

Slung Blade
Jul 10, 2002

IN STEEL WE TRUST



This is why the metric system is a good idea.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.


Slung Blade posted:

This is why the metric system is a good idea.

Nah, we've got kips (kilopounds, 1000lb) but nobody uses them. I suppose the prefix of that is metric, BUT IT'S STILL POUNDS DAMMIT

FatCow
Apr 22, 2002
I MAP THE FUCK OUT OF PEOPLE


ASSTASTIC posted:

Anyone use Harbor Freight's spring compressors before? Any opinions on them?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ct...temnumber=43753

I bought a set of these at the recommendation of this thread. I've used them a few times and they are totally awesome and not scary at all.

http://www.amazon.com/OEM-25550-Str...70784886&sr=8-2

It may have been this other one though. I can't find the e-mail from amazon though, check back in the thread. The good one is the one that is a rebranded Craftsman.

http://www.amazon.com/CalVan-Tools-...70784886&sr=8-6

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!

oxbrain posted:

That's if you got it as a kid. Adults just get cranky, depressed, and sick.

gently caress, I get lead poisoning every time I wake up then.

MetaJew posted:

Are you sure you're not confusing lead poisoning with mercury poisoning? Or is mercury poisoning just the one where you start forgetting things... like the alphabet?

Forgetting things is aluminium. Mercury is going batshit holy gently caress brainfire gibbering crazy.

briefcasefullof
Sep 25, 2004
[This Space for Rent]

This may be a dumb question, or this may not be the best place, but what the hell do you use to wash your cars? Every stupid wand I've seen screws onto a garden hose with plastic threads that get stripped out the first time you use it.

I'm thinking about grabbing a pressure washer and using one, but I'm not so sure that it wouldn't take the paint off, even on low.

PabloBOOM
Mar 10, 2004
Hunchback of DOOM

You could probably start a whole thread about carwashing-- there are so many different methods with their own advantages. The thing is, there's no real wrong way unless you're scratching the paint. Then I think we can all agree you're doing it wrong.

As for me, these days I just use some cheapo car wash from walmart, garden hose, and microfiber sponge thing. Wax if I'm feeling frisky. It's hard to get simpler, but I know a lot of folks get fancier and have at least somewhat shinier cars to show for it.


To avoid derailing this thread a bit much: I'll finally own a flat garage this summer I'm looking to get all the tools/jacks/general garage equipment I haven't picked up over the last few years. Are there any, for lack of a better term, newbie packs of tools you guys know are decent quality? I've noticed a few on the HF website for at least jacks and stands and there is a local store nearby I'll be checking out. Any other recommendations?

Big K of Justice
Nov 27, 2005

Anyone seen my ball joints?


PabloBOOM posted:


To avoid derailing this thread a bit much: I'll finally own a flat garage this summer I'm looking to get all the tools/jacks/general garage equipment I haven't picked up over the last few years. Are there any, for lack of a better term, newbie packs of tools you guys know are decent quality? I've noticed a few on the HF website for at least jacks and stands and there is a local store nearby I'll be checking out. Any other recommendations?

If you got a bit of money to blow, the "big name tool truck brands" have an industrial finish version of their hand tools which are treated black and not chromed for cheaper than the chrome finished tools.

Craftsmen has got a few nice kits for a good price.

PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me

My Snap-On cordless electric impact that I bought used from my tool overlord friend is awesome and I love it. Two things:

It was awesome when I bought it used. Over the winter I sent the batteries to Voltman Batteries for rebuilding and now the gun is really badass.

The impact gun also answers an important theological question. People have asked for a long time that if there is an all-powerful god can he create a rock so heavy he can't lift it?

To answer this question you must first understand that the Snap-On cordless electric impact is all-powerful. I have personally observed it tighten a bolt so tight that the gun could not loosen it afterwards. Ergo god can create a rock so heavy he can't lift it.

PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 04:31 on Apr 12, 2010

PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me

BigKOfJustice posted:

If you got a bit of money to blow, the "big name tool truck brands" have an industrial finish version of their hand tools which are treated black and not chromed for cheaper than the chrome finished tools.

Craftsmen has got a few nice kits for a good price.

There is a reason most tools come chromed. It is a durable finish that is easy to keep clean.

More importantly in the production/shop environment they are easy to see and harder to lose or forget under the hood of the car that you were working on that just left the shop.

AnomalousBoners
Dec 22, 2007

by Ozma


PabloBOOM posted:

To avoid derailing this thread a bit much: I'll finally own a flat garage this summer I'm looking to get all the tools/jacks/general garage equipment I haven't picked up over the last few years. Are there any, for lack of a better term, newbie packs of tools you guys know are decent quality? I've noticed a few on the HF website for at least jacks and stands and there is a local store nearby I'll be checking out. Any other recommendations?

Buy almost all of your tools on craigslist and at moving sales. Lowball.

Big K of Justice
Nov 27, 2005

Anyone seen my ball joints?


PBCrunch posted:

There is a reason most tools come chromed. It is a durable finish that is easy to keep clean.

More importantly in the production/shop environment they are easy to see and harder to lose or forget under the hood of the car that you were working on that just left the shop.

Absolutely true, usually the big wrenches I'll get in an industrial finish because it's stuff I use once a year, i don't care how it looks and I rattle can a portion of them bright safety yellow for visibility and identification .

Most of my sockets are industrial finish for impact use anyways.

AnomalousBoners
Dec 22, 2007

by Ozma


Just bought and did a bit of inspection on the Harbor Freight 97420 ratcheting crimp tool.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ct...temnumber=97420

I have yet to use it and do any testing but can still make some general construction comments. If you google youll see a review of an earlier style crimp tool made in Taiwan that was junk to the point of being almost useless. They seem to have improved quite a bit with this design but still have a ways to go.

This one is made in China by Cixi tools according to what I turned up from googling the stamping on the die set. You can buy 1000 of them for $3.90ea. FOB Shanghai BTW. The frame seems to still be a copy of the Ancor tool with the ratchet (presumably handle force) adjustment being on the top. The handle force is decent and grips reasonably comfortable.

Using die cavity gaging dims from another major commerical tools envelope drawing I measured all of the die sets on this tool. They should be the same and are held +/- .006. The red cavity was spot on at .083. The blue cavity was at the very upper limit of this tolerance. The yellow cavity however was an alarming .013 under. You would have to squeeze well past the ratchet release to get a decent crimp. Additionally the crimping surfaces are not nearly as nice as other tool manufacturers. However it seems like it should work and I may do a comparo between this tool and a Daniels DCT4-102.

EDIT: Its also worth mentioning that it looks like everything on this tool is made with almost no machining. The frame, ratchet and pawl are all stamped and the dies appear to be castings though its possible the cavities are machined.

AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 13:15 on Apr 16, 2010

frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!


RealKyleH posted:

Just bought and did a bit of inspection on the Harbor Freight 97420 ratcheting crimp tool.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ct...temnumber=97420

I have yet to use it and do any testing but can still make some general construction comments. If you google youll see a review of an earlier style crimp tool made in Taiwan that was junk to the point of being almost useless. They seem to have improved quite a bit with this design but still have a ways to go.

This one is made in China by Cixi tools according to what I turned up from googling the stamping on the die set. You can buy 1000 of them for $3.90ea. FOB Shanghai BTW. The frame seems to still be a copy of the Ancor tool with the ratchet (presumably handle force) adjustment being on the top. The handle force is decent and grips reasonably comfortable.

Using die cavity gaging dims from another major commerical tools envelope drawing I measured all of the die sets on this tool. They should be the same and are held +/- .006. The red cavity was spot on at .083. The blue cavity was at the very upper limit of this tolerance. The yellow cavity however was an alarming .013 under. You would have to squeeze well past the ratchet release to get a decent crimp. Additionally the crimping surfaces are not nearly as nice as other tool manufacturers. However it seems like it should work and I may do a comparo between this tool and a Daniels DCT4-102.

EDIT: Its also worth mentioning that it looks like everything on this tool is made with almost no machining. The frame, ratchet and pawl are all stamped and the dies appear to be castings though its possible the cavities are machined.

Nice review. So it sounds like this is standard Harbor Freight stuff; good enough for most general work, but buy a real tool if you need precision.

Jared592
Jan 23, 2003
JARED NUMBERS: BACK IN ACTION


RealKyleH posted:

Just bought and did a bit of inspection on the Harbor Freight 97420 ratcheting crimp tool..
Awesome. I'd love to see more objective comparisons like this between cheapo and expensive tools. It's nice to see actual numbers rather than "it's Chinese crap" opinions, which, while useful in their own way, don't quite put as fine a point upon the difference in quality.

Big K of Justice
Nov 27, 2005

Anyone seen my ball joints?


Is there a recommendation for a good ratcheting terminal crimper? I had it with the standard stamped metal things. The last one I used couldn't crimp butt connectors properly and actually bent while I was crimping a harness

I was looking at getting a Greenlee unit for around $50 or so, like this:

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/4CN29?Pid=search

Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 17:19 on Apr 16, 2010

One Day Fish Sale
Aug 28, 2009



Grimey Drawer

RealKyleH posted:

Just bought and did a bit of inspection on the Harbor Freight 97420 ratcheting crimp tool.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ct...temnumber=97420

Thanks for the review, but I don't know why you wouldn't just buy the OTC tool for a little more: http://www.google.com/products?q=otc+4497

Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005


BigKOfJustice posted:

Is there a recommendation for a good ratcheting terminal crimper? I had it with the standard stamped metal things. The last one I used couldn't crimp butt connectors properly and actually bent while I was crimping a harness

I was looking at getting a Greenlee unit for around $50 or so, like this:

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/4CN29?Pid=search

I've been using these for a long time and they still work just as well as the day I got them. No sense in wasting all that money on a brand name.

EDIT: Yes I did read what he said. I used them for like a hundred crimps a day for years, and have never had a problem with any of them. I can't pull them back out of the connectors, and it doesn't mangle them or anything, so why should I, or anyone else who's not a machinist or something, care? Maybe just the set he got was lovely, because mine works just fine.

Lowclock fucked around with this message at 18:03 on Apr 16, 2010

AnomalousBoners
Dec 22, 2007

by Ozma


BigKOfJustice posted:

Is there a recommendation for a good ratcheting terminal crimper? I had it with the standard stamped metal things. The last one I used couldn't crimp butt connectors properly and actually bent while I was crimping a harness

I was looking at getting a Greenlee unit for around $50 or so, like this:

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/4CN29?Pid=search

I work for DMC and can highly highly recommend the DMC DCT4 series. If you need one for R/B/Y teminals its the DCT4-102. They have a very strong frame and all the dims gaged right on (+/- .001 or less). The crimp cavities are also less likely to get stuck on shielded terminals because they aren't simply round like the HF tool. I don't think I am allowed to say anything about numbers until they are published but suffice it to say they can last a long time even used daily.

frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!


Lowclock posted:

I've been using these for a long time and they still work just as well as the day I got them. No sense in wasting all that money on a brand name.

Did you not read the preceding posts about these very crimpers?

AnomalousBoners
Dec 22, 2007

by Ozma


Lowclock posted:

I've been using these for a long time and they still work just as well as the day I got them. No sense in wasting all that money on a brand name.

To be clear, I am very cheap. I love cheap tools.

When you say work as well as the day you got them, how do you know that?

I bought one two days ago and it didnt gage properly from the store as stated above. I plan to do some tensile tests but just cause mine had a die set that was under and therefore going past the ratchet release can still net a good crimp assuming the cavity shape doesnt suck, it may be that your diesets are oversize and therefore their tensile values are gonna be way low. (Tensile means the amount it takes to pull the wire out.)

AnomalousBoners
Dec 22, 2007

by Ozma


Lowclock posted:

I've been using these for a long time and they still work just as well as the day I got them. No sense in wasting all that money on a brand name.

EDIT: Yes I did read what he said. I used them for like a hundred crimps a day for years, and have never had a problem with any of them. I can't pull them back out of the connectors, and it doesn't mangle them or anything, so why should I, or anyone else who's not a machinist or something, care? Maybe just the set he got was lovely, because mine works just fine.

Because cavities that are too large will result in lovely electrical properties and tensile values. The electrical properties you probably dont care about as in cars its low voltage, likely crap wire and the voltage is all over the place anyway. Tensile values however can be important as its the strength required to get wires to pull out. Do I plan to return mine? No, I'll see how they do first. Just syaing that compared to real crimpers the cavities are crap.

Also, not that it matters to most here, but many crimpers use .500" diesets which allows you to have one tool frame that can do many different types of crimps, crescent, hex and in some cases indent. These use .535" diesets IIRC and unless some other company uses them you lose the option to put in other diesets. Although almost everything I do is R/B/Y.

AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 19:57 on Apr 16, 2010

AnomalousBoners
Dec 22, 2007

by Ozma


Tensile tested the Yellow undersize dieset on Milspec wire and UL ring terminals 163, 168, 153, all quite good numbers. Milspec is 150. So out of the box the undersize yellow cavity works. I look forward to testing the oversize blue cavity. If thats good too we can call them acceptable crimpers.

EDIT: Im gonna try using part store (probably non UL) wire and temirnals with the blue cavity and see how it does. Hope to try this monday. Keep in mind the first test was optimal conditions.

AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 20:28 on Apr 16, 2010

nmfree
Aug 15, 2001

The Greater Goon: Breaking Hearts and Chains since 2006


RealKyleH posted:

Also, not that it matters to most here, but many crimpers use .500" diesets which allows you to have one tool frame that can do many different types of crimps, crescent, hex and in some cases indent. These use .535" diesets IIRC and unless some other company uses them you lose the option to put in other diesets. Although almost everything I do is R/B/Y.
That's actually good to know, since I have been thinking about buying a set of HF crimps and using a different set of dies. I guess I'll spring for a decent crimper.

Kynetx
Jan 8, 2003


Full of ignorant tribalism. Kinda sad.


I post this about once every two months:


quote:

I use the Thomas and Betts version of that same crimper at work. I really, really like them:


http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ww...000&N=0&sst=All

I also have a set of much better ratcheting crimpers with replaceable dies that I use if I've got my whole crash cart full of tools:


http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/3KF66?Pid=search

Between the two, I'd rather go with the one above. It strips, it's smaller and lighter (a big plus when your Kennedy tool box weighs 35 lbs empty) and doesn't require die changes. The second one is marginally better, but I'm not working on the Space Shuttle where that kind of precision is necessary.

AnomalousBoners
Dec 22, 2007

by Ozma


For stripping the Ideal Stripmaster style of tools are really great. HF has one dirt cheap that I really wanna see if it will accept Ideal or DMC diesets but its internet only. A real Ideal Stripmaster is only like $32 anyway.

nmfree posted:

That's actually good to know, since I have been thinking about buying a set of HF crimps and using a different set of dies. I guess I'll spring for a decent crimper.

I think Tyco uses .492" so careful there too. Sometimes the adjustment can make up for that .008 though depending on what the adjustment pin is designed as. Not sure what that T&B uses

AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 00:17 on Apr 17, 2010

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Gimme Gimme Swedish Fish...



Fallen Rib

The OTC and HF are identical tools, from what I can tell (I've used both). ditto with the Anchor ones.

Greenlee's are fine, I'm sure DMC's is great... but I've never had a single crimp fail with good crimp sleeves and the HF/OTC/Anchor tool. I've probably applied 1000+ crimps (I do boat wiring and whatnot for work).

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AnomalousBoners
Dec 22, 2007

by Ozma


sharkytm posted:

The OTC and HF are identical tools, from what I can tell (I've used both). ditto with the Anchor ones.

Greenlee's are fine, I'm sure DMC's is great... but I've never had a single crimp fail with good crimp sleeves and the HF/OTC/Anchor tool. I've probably applied 1000+ crimps (I do boat wiring and whatnot for work).

You can tell if they're exactly the same by pulling the die sets, the HF ones are stamped with the mfg name. Even though I work for DMC my interest is providing good info. The tests where it was sorta optimal conditions turned out very well. Next I'll check some that aren't and hopefully they'll perform as well.

EDIT: BTW if youre considering that $200 T&B tool, youd be much better off picking up a used HX3 or HX4 on ebay. Theyre MilSpec tools and much better that ratcheting crimpers. Ratcheting crimpers like the kind we're talking about aren't as good as the open frame style.


...also holy poo poo used ones are like $54 on eBay....yea thats an awesome deal.

Astro:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Astro-Kings-HX4...=item2eab46f49b

DMC:
http://cgi.ebay.com/DANIELS-HX4-CRI...=item5d276394b0

I think M22520/5-100 which is a Y501 is the equiv of an RBY dieset but im not 100% sure.

AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 14:37 on Apr 17, 2010

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