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SNiPER_Magnum
Jan 21, 2001

Don't close. Don't close.

Nap Ghost

You have to pump the poo poo out of that thing to get any amount of fluid. And if you don't have a good fit on your bleeder screw, you get a lot of little air bubbles. I don't think it's worth it unless you don't have friends and can't get speed bleeders.

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Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005


If you have a compressor, get this instead. It works pretty drat good. I did a full fluid change in like 15 minutes because I never had to stop to empty or fill anything.

FatCow
Apr 22, 2002
I MAP THE FUCK OUT OF PEOPLE


The HF here stocks the mityvac pump. I think I got it for ~$20, works awesome.

I need a tap for a 1/2" hole. I think that leaves me at 5/8-11, 9/16-12 for usable sizes. Any recommendation on taps/where to buy them? It doesn't look like sears carries anything that big.

FatCow fucked around with this message at 17:54 on May 30, 2010

AnomalousBoners
Dec 22, 2007

by Ozma


FatCow posted:

I need a tap for a 1/2" hole. I think that leaves me at 5/8-11, 9/16-12 for usable sizes. Any recommendation on taps/where to buy them? It doesn't look like sears carries anything that big.

That doesnt make a lot of sense to me, could you explain a bit more? Also what material? Grainger or MSC are places to buy all kinds of taps. eBay often has USA made taps for cheap.

FatCow
Apr 22, 2002
I MAP THE FUCK OUT OF PEOPLE


RealKyleH posted:

That doesnt make a lot of sense to me, could you explain a bit more? Also what material? Grainger or MSC are places to buy all kinds of taps. eBay often has USA made taps for cheap.

I stripped out the thread on a welded on bung. So I'm pretty limited in how much more material I can drill out to re-thread, hence the ~1/2" requirement. The material being tapped is steel, it's a shock absorber.

AnomalousBoners
Dec 22, 2007

by Ozma


FatCow posted:

I stripped out the thread on a welded on bung. So I'm pretty limited in how much more material I can drill out to re-thread, hence the ~1/2" requirement. The material being tapped is steel, it's a shock absorber.

eBay will be the best value if you can afford to wait, Grainger, MSC or McMaster-Carr all may have local stores and/or next day shipping. MSC is typically the cheapest of them. If you want to thread into the steel in the shock, you're probably better off with a course thread in this case 9/16-12. If the steel you're tapping is a harder one AND you can get a decent length of thread engagement a fine thread will be stronger (as I understand it).

grover
Jan 23, 2002

PEW PEW PEW







SNiPER_Magnum posted:

You have to pump the poo poo out of that thing to get any amount of fluid. And if you don't have a good fit on your bleeder screw, you get a lot of little air bubbles. I don't think it's worth it unless you don't have friends and can't get speed bleeders.
Makes perfect sense. I took your and oxbrain's advice and returned it... and bought my new favorite tool, an 18" ratcheting breaker bar with 1/2" drive

For anyone following my HG repair: I got the driver's side exhaust manifold off with my new favorite tool. Got a stubborn bolt on the EGR valve slowing me down on the passenger side, though. In the meantime, I'm PB Blasting the crap out of everything. Edit2: and all the driver's side head bolts. All but one stinking bracket bolt I somehow missed, and just when I started removing it, it started to rain and I had to pack up quick because the last thing I need is rainwater in my block.

grover fucked around with this message at 00:13 on May 31, 2010

CornHolio
May 20, 2001



Toilet Rascal

grover posted:

Yeah, I should have prewarned that, too. Consider that $15 drill a disposable tool that MIGHT last you this one project, but is not an investment. Something an apartment dweller who needs to hang a shelf might buy. The battery will die frustratingly quickly on more involved projects, and it won't have the torque for bigger screws; it's not a good drill to use with that buffing kit- get a corded drill. $30 will buy you a decent corded drill that will serve you for years.


Man, that sucks. What $30 corded drill would you recommend?

grover
Jan 23, 2002

PEW PEW PEW







CornHolio posted:

Man, that sucks. What $30 corded drill would you recommend?
That was just a price point I threw out; I didn't have any particular models in mind. (I spent $80 on a Hitachi corded hammer drill when I built my addition and it's been awesome, but it's more than you need.) Any corded drill should be fine for your headlight project; cordless just drain batteries too fast when used continuously. I'm sure many others here will chime in, but features I like in a drill are keyless chuck, clutch and variable speed. Window-shop your local Lowes/Home Depot and check out their selection. The difference between the REALLY cheap drills and the high-end is usually pretty apparent when you see the heft. Having a second bolt-on handle in order to be able to deal with the torque is usually a pretty good sign, too

If ALL you want to do is this headlight job, that $15 corded drill you linked would be fine. You could use it for light projects, and can always step up to something better if you have some new project and it's just not up to the task. I've done this before, too; $15 angle grinder, for instance- bought it for one project, finished it, and it's got some issues but still grinds, so I'm still using it

grover fucked around with this message at 00:23 on May 31, 2010

Sgt Fox
Dec 21, 2004

It's the buzzer I love the most. Makes me feel alive. Makes the V8's dead.


grover posted:

Yeah, I should have prewarned that, too. Consider that $15 drill a disposable tool that MIGHT last you this one project, but is not an investment. Something an apartment dweller who needs to hang a shelf might buy. The battery will die frustratingly quickly on more involved projects, and it won't have the torque for bigger screws; it's not a good drill to use with that buffing kit- get a corded drill. $30 will buy you a decent corded drill that will serve you for years.

I should have known better than to go to Harbor Freight for a $25 set of metric flex ratcheting wrenches. Ended blowing $173 this morning. Ah well, I'm at least now the proud new owner of SAE and metric deep-sockets, a brake bleeder and a pressure washer. And a bunch of other random crap. Ironically, I ran into one of my buddys at Advanced Auto on the way home - buying brake fluid to bleed his brakes today. So, might get used already.

Speaking of which:


Used one of these for years with no issues. At first I also thought they didn't work but it turns out I just wasn't using it right. Apply some grease to the bleeder screws so no air can get sucked around and you will have your brakes bled in no time at all. Just pump a suction with the bleeder closed, then open it slightly and pump occasionally to maintain the suction level.

CornHolio
May 20, 2001



Toilet Rascal

grover posted:

If ALL you want to do is this headlight job, that $15 corded drill you linked would be fine. You could use it for light projects, and can always step up to something better if you have some new project and it's just not up to the task. I've done this before, too; $15 angle grinder, for instance- bought it for one project, finished it, and it's got some issues but still grinds, so I'm still using it

Hmm. Thing is, I don't really need a heavy-duty drill right now. I just don't want to get something that's complete crap. If the $20 cordless one is crap I suppose I might get the $15 one. But, if there was a much better quality $30 one that would last significantly longer I'd definitely go that route. I don't want to spend much more than that, though. I won't use it enough yet to justify it.

AnomalousBoners
Dec 22, 2007

by Ozma


Read this thread, harbor freight cordless tools suck. I can't think of anyone in this thread who has bought any cordless tool and thought it was worth the money. You can also tread this thread and easily see that I am a fan of harborfreight tools that are good.

EDIT: Dont forget a used $30 good drill at a garage sale is often way better than a $30 new drill.

AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 03:07 on May 31, 2010

oxbrain
Aug 18, 2005

Put a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip and come on up to the mothership.


CornHolio posted:

Man, that sucks. What $30 corded drill would you recommend?

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-...75274154&sr=8-1

I have the older version of this drill and it's been my go to drill for over a decade now.

Black88GTA
Oct 8, 2009


RealKyleH posted:

Read this thread, harbor freight cordless tools suck. I can't think of anyone in this thread who has bought any cordless tool and thought it was worth the money. You can also tread this thread and easily see that I am a fan of harborfreight tools that are good.

EDIT: Dont forget a used $30 good drill at a garage sale is often way better than a $30 new drill.

I will be the voice of dissonance here, and say that I love my HF 19.2v cordless impact wrench. It isn't lovely at all, and hasn't let me down yet.

Of course, it was actually somewhat expensive, and def not one of the $15 throwaway things, so who knows. OP, your best bet is to go to a used tool place and pick up a used corded drill there for cheap. I did this years ago (in the mid '90s), and ended up with a 3/8 Craftsman that works great and is still kicking. I just used it last weekend, in fact.

Rhyno
Mar 22, 2003

Psst! It's me!
The Sinister with the mutant gene.


Would it be possible for me to have a keyless chuck installed on my old drill? Does such a service exist?

Sex Weirdo
Jul 24, 2007



oxbrain posted:

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-...75274154&sr=8-1

I have the older version of this drill and it's been my go to drill for over a decade now.

I picked up one of these from Menards a few years ago and it has worked out rather nicely as well. I couldn't tell you anything about what kind of RPMs it turns though.

edit: apparently up to 1500 RPM according to the amazon ad.

Sex Weirdo fucked around with this message at 03:59 on May 31, 2010

CornHolio
May 20, 2001



Toilet Rascal

oxbrain posted:

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-...75274154&sr=8-1

I have the older version of this drill and it's been my go to drill for over a decade now.

I think that I like this quite a bit. I'm glad you posted this, I might get this...

Black88GTA posted:

used tool place

...Unless you tell me more about these used tool places. Seriously, I don't think I've ever seen one around here. Do standard pawn shops have tools?

Nosbearatu
Apr 29, 2006

CARBON!!

So I am looking at buying a wire feed welder, since having moved away from the family shop I no longer have access to all the nice tools my dad has. I have never really done any real welding, but would like to be able to practice up to do some basic body work on future restoration projects. From what I have seen the wire feed is the way to go. My question is which of these two look better:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...32691_200332691

or

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...03263_200403263

The first one has what looks like adjustable amperage output, is this something worth the extra price?

Also does anyone have any experience with these store brand units, the have Hobarts there as well, but they are quite a bit more expensive.

wav3form
Aug 10, 2008


Black88GTA posted:

I will be the voice of dissonance here, and say that I love my HF 19.2v cordless impact wrench. It isn't lovely at all, and hasn't let me down yet.

Of course, it was actually somewhat expensive, and def not one of the $15 throwaway things, so who knows. OP, your best bet is to go to a used tool place and pick up a used corded drill there for cheap. I did this years ago (in the mid '90s), and ended up with a 3/8 Craftsman that works great and is still kicking. I just used it last weekend, in fact.

My Harbor Freight electric impact wrench is a god send. It's the corded one but drat if it isn't one of the best tools I've ever bought.

Ericadia
Oct 31, 2007

Not A Unicorn

Rhyno posted:

Would it be possible for me to have a keyless chuck installed on my old drill? Does such a service exist?

I'd imagine you could do it yourself pretty easily if you could find a replacement chuck that fits. As far as removing the old one, if it is attached to a tapered spindle you could remove it with a wedge similar to (but thinner than) a ball joint separator. I don't know the exact process for removing a chuck from a threaded spindle (if that's what your drill has), but I doubt it is much more difficult.

If you end up doing this, I'd be interested in seeing the results.

CornHolio
May 20, 2001



Toilet Rascal

Alright. Slight change of plans. I can get any of the following drills for free using some reward points I've accumulated.

Black and Decker cordless

Kawasaki corded

Black and Decker corded

Denali cordless hammer drill without battery (I could pick up a battery and charger too I think)

I'm partial to the Kawasaki just because it'll use up almost all of my points (I'm trying to get rid of them). Thoughts? Suggestions?

CornHolio fucked around with this message at 18:16 on May 31, 2010

AnomalousBoners
Dec 22, 2007

by Ozma


Kawasaki

Rhyno
Mar 22, 2003

Psst! It's me!
The Sinister with the mutant gene.


CornHolio posted:

Alright. Slight change of plans. I can get any of the following drills for free using some reward points I've accumulated.

Black and Decker cordless

Kawasaki cordless

Black and Decker corded

Denali cordless hammer drill without battery (I could pick up a battery and charger too I think)

Cambell Hausfeld TL1006

I'm partial to the Kawasaki just because it'll use up almost all of my points (I'm trying to get rid of them). Thoughts? Suggestions?

That Kawasaki clearly has a cord. And the CH one will depend on how good your compressor setup is.

CornHolio
May 20, 2001



Toilet Rascal

Rhyno posted:

That Kawasaki clearly has a cord. And the CH one will depend on how good your compressor setup is.

do'h. I knew it had a cord. Not sure why I put cordless.

And I took the CH one off, I didn't look close enough at it.

NinjaTech
Sep 30, 2003

do you have any PANTIES

Nosbearatu posted:

So I am looking at buying a wire feed welder, since having moved away from the family shop I no longer have access to all the nice tools my dad has. I have never really done any real welding, but would like to be able to practice up to do some basic body work on future restoration projects. From what I have seen the wire feed is the way to go. My question is which of these two look better:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...32691_200332691

or

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...03263_200403263

The first one has what looks like adjustable amperage output, is this something worth the extra price?

Also does anyone have any experience with these store brand units, the have Hobarts there as well, but they are quite a bit more expensive.

I would go with the MIG if you're getting a store brand. You can still use flux core wire until you can get a gas bottle for it. Flux core is pretty messy and burns too hot to weld thin metal on cars easily.

grover
Jan 23, 2002

PEW PEW PEW







I need a thin ratchet. One that isn't 1/2"+ thick at the head. Anyone make such a beast? I can grind about 1/8" off the socket to make up for some of the thickness, but it's still not enough. I need it because of this $^$#%@##!%$^@ bolt:



My thumb is coming from the only accessible area; there is no access in any other direction to get anything resembling enough torque to break the bolt loose, so open-end wrenches just aren't working. I need to get something that will go up and over the exhaust manifold to allow me leverage, yet not foul the exhaust pipe. gently caress GM, btw. gently caress GM in the rear end until they bleed to death.

Anyone know of any super-thin 3/8" ratchets or breaker bars?

grover fucked around with this message at 23:27 on Jun 1, 2010

Black88GTA
Oct 8, 2009


grover posted:

I need a thin ratchet. One that isn't 1/2"+ thick at the head. Anyone make such a beast? I can grind about 1/8" off the socket to make up for some of the thickness, but it's still not enough. I need it because of this $^$#%@##!%$^@ bolt:



My thumb is coming from the only accessible area; there is no access in any other direction to get anything resembling enough torque to break the bolt loose, so open-end wrenches just aren't working. I need to get something that will go up and over the exhaust manifold to allow me leverage, yet not foul the exhaust pipe. gently caress GM, btw. gently caress GM in the rear end until they bleed to death.

Anyone know of any super-thin 3/8" ratchets or breaker bars?

I don't suppose a 1/4" drive would work? if so, I have a little wrench that I got at Home Depot that might fit the bill. It's a reversible ratcheting offset screwdriver / wrench with a 1/4" and a 5/16" end. It came with a 1/4" drive socket attachment that slips in where the bits go (the 5/16" end). The head is about 1cm thick. I can't find it anywhere online (might be NLA? ) but it only cost around $8 IIRC. Husky model #66604. I bought it because I thought that I "might need it someday" and it turned out to be one of the tools I use most.

I could post pics if desired.

Skyssx
Feb 2, 2001

by T. Fine


Snap-on makes a 3/8" drive ratchet that is sized like a 1/4" ratchet. I can't imagine it is at all durable.

CornHolio
May 20, 2001



Toilet Rascal

grover posted:



Anyone know of any super-thin 3/8" ratchets or breaker bars?

Would this work? The real long one is basically a flat piece of steel with a 3/8" nub on the one end. The shorter one is 1/2" drive. Came in handy for me.

grover
Jan 23, 2002

PEW PEW PEW







CornHolio posted:

Would this work? The real long one is basically a flat piece of steel with a 3/8" nub on the one end. The shorter one is 1/2" drive. Came in handy for me.


Wow, that's perfect! I'll pick one up tomorrow Thin enough that'll it'll save me the trouble of grinding, too.

Black88GTA: My 1/4" craftsman ratchet is about 1/8" thinner than my 3/8, but I don't have a 1/4" 13mm socket, so I haven't been able to try it yet (was my fall-back plan). Frankly, though, given the force I've had to use on some of the other bolts, I'm worried about breaking it.

grover fucked around with this message at 09:44 on Jun 2, 2010

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

EVERYWHERE
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!



grover posted:

Wow, that's perfect! I'll pick one up tomorrow Thin enough that'll it'll save me the trouble of grinding, too.

Black88GTA: My 1/4" craftsman ratchet is about 1/8" thinner than my 3/4, but I don't have a 1/4" 13mm socket, so I haven't been able to try it yet (was my fall-back plan). Frankly, though, given the force I've had to use on some of the other bolts, I'm worried about breaking it.

Another option is http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-ei...chet-96782.html

The swiveling head is compact and comes in very useful.

Ericadia
Oct 31, 2007

Not A Unicorn

grover posted:

Wow, that's perfect! I'll pick one up tomorrow Thin enough that'll it'll save me the trouble of grinding, too.

Black88GTA: My 1/4" craftsman ratchet is about 1/8" thinner than my 3/4, but I don't have a 1/4" 13mm socket, so I haven't been able to try it yet (was my fall-back plan). Frankly, though, given the force I've had to use on some of the other bolts, I'm worried about breaking it.

If you have ratcheting wrenches, be sure to buy this while you are there.

NinjaTech
Sep 30, 2003

do you have any PANTIES

Ericadia posted:

If you have ratcheting wrenches, be sure to buy this while you are there.

Too bad they're not metric since that's all my ratcheting wrenches are.

Elephanthead
Sep 11, 2008




Toilet Rascal

http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa...51&keycode=0000

Here is a coupon for the belt wrench $9.99.

frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!


Nosbearatu posted:

So I am looking at buying a wire feed welder, since having moved away from the family shop I no longer have access to all the nice tools my dad has. I have never really done any real welding, but would like to be able to practice up to do some basic body work on future restoration projects. From what I have seen the wire feed is the way to go. My question is which of these two look better:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...32691_200332691

or

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...03263_200403263

The first one has what looks like adjustable amperage output, is this something worth the extra price?

Also does anyone have any experience with these store brand units, the have Hobarts there as well, but they are quite a bit more expensive.

Don't spend money on a welder if its name isn't Lincoln, Miller, or possibly Hobart; not if you want to weld with it anyway.

grover
Jan 23, 2002

PEW PEW PEW







Elephanthead posted:

http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa...51&keycode=0000

Here is a coupon for the belt wrench $9.99.
I'd swear it was showing up online for $9.99 last night, but was $15.99 today. $10 more than it's worth, I think.

And STILL didn't work. The angle of the dangle just didn't quite fit. Close, closest yet, but close just wasn't cutting it. Before I broke out the hammer and anvil to make it fit, I gave it a shot with the crow's foot 13mm that came with the kit and allowed a slightly less impossible angle with my 3/8 ratchet and... WOOHOO!!! broke the motherfucker loose!!!! Managed to work it the rest of the way out with an angled ratchet wrench from an extremely uncomfortable position balanced with my knees on the radiator, chest on a 2x4 spread across the engine bay and forehead on the windshield. And thus ended a 3-day battle with that loving bolt. Did I mention a thunderstorm rolled in and it started raining right as I broke it loose? I wasn't about to stop, though.

Now, I'm all set to shove this bolt up the rear end in a top hat of whatever engineer designed that part of the engine bay. I'm an engineer myself- there's no excuse for bad design like this, not for a bolt that requires such force to break loose.

PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me

I bought a Skil 7.2-Volt Lithium Ion Power Wrench on Amazon today. The reviews are kind of mixed, but all I want this for is to drive bolts and screws to the point where my ratchet can be used to finish them off so I don't have to waste time turning the fastener by hand to get it finger tight. Also, vice versa. I want to crack bolts with real tools and then use this to get them the rest of the way off.

Kind of like an air ratchet but without the air.

It looks like it should at least be able to do that much.

Why doesn't anyone make a right angle impact gun? I love my Snap-On cordless electric impact gun but it is so big it can't reach a lot of places.

Or some kind of gear driven right angle adapter for socket wrenches?

PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 22:33 on Jun 2, 2010

Blackdawgg
May 8, 2004


Disappointment in my Craftsman tools today. I took my 3/8 ratchet in because it was ratcheting pretty rough and skipping teeth. They handed me a refurb one from behind the counter that was beat to hell and had grease spots all over it. Not to mention it only works marginally better than my old one. I don't mind getting a refurb unit as long as it's in decent condition.

So I'm thinking of buying the snap-on Dual 80 with locking flex head. A bit pricey but I've used one at work and it makes this craftsman feel like a ratchet from harbor freight's reject bin.

Sgt Fox
Dec 21, 2004

It's the buzzer I love the most. Makes me feel alive. Makes the V8's dead.


Blackdawgg posted:

Disappointment in my Craftsman tools today. I took my 3/8 ratchet in because it was ratcheting pretty rough and skipping teeth. They handed me a refurb one from behind the counter that was beat to hell and had grease spots all over it. Not to mention it only works marginally better than my old one. I don't mind getting a refurb unit as long as it's in decent condition.

So I'm thinking of buying the snap-on Dual 80 with locking flex head. A bit pricey but I've used one at work and it makes this craftsman feel like a ratchet from harbor freight's reject bin.

Do it. I personally don't like the flex heads but the F80 is great.

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Ericadia
Oct 31, 2007

Not A Unicorn

Blackdawgg posted:

Disappointment in my Craftsman tools today. I took my 3/8 ratchet in because it was ratcheting pretty rough and skipping teeth. They handed me a refurb one from behind the counter that was beat to hell and had grease spots all over it. Not to mention it only works marginally better than my old one. I don't mind getting a refurb unit as long as it's in decent condition.

So I'm thinking of buying the snap-on Dual 80 with locking flex head. A bit pricey but I've used one at work and it makes this craftsman feel like a ratchet from harbor freight's reject bin.

If they hand you a greasy/dirty refurb for a Full Forever Warranty replacement, you should refuse it right away and demand another one, if they say no, ask to speak with a manager (preferably the hardware or store manager). If the manager refuses, call or email customer care (can find the contact info on their website, just click the "customer service" link at the top). There are a lot of ways to make sears bend to your will, they just don't advertise them.

If you don't feel like dealing with all the red tape, you could always pop the ratchet open and attack the gear or pawl with a file, put it back together, and then try and return it. You used to be able to buy refurb kits from PartsDirect for mere cents, but it looks like they aren't available online anymore. I wonder if the service centers carry them now..

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