Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
slingshot effect
Sep 28, 2009

the wonderful wizard of welp


Unkempt posted:

This tells me that Airfix (hmm...) are re-releasing a few of their old rocket kits. There's also these guys who seem to do a lot of resin kits; I've never built a resin kit, but I'm sure you can get some tips around here.
You could also try http://www.oldmodelkits.com but some of their stuff is ludicrously expensive.

A question: I saw a really good article somewhere about painting rusty metal textures, but I can't find it now. Anyone know of something like that?

Excellent, thanks for the leads. I'm hoping to score an ultimate find and get a Sputnik I or Sputnik II kit, or I'll take a crack at making them from scratch.

Re: rust - are you looking to create a rust look from paint only, or texturing as well?

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Unkempt
May 24, 2003

Sexual Air Supply




Danger - Octopus! posted:

Try this

I think that's the one I was looking for, thanks.

laratron posted:

Excellent, thanks for the leads. I'm hoping to score an ultimate find and get a Sputnik I or Sputnik II kit, or I'll take a crack at making them from scratch.

Re: rust - are you looking to create a rust look from paint only, or texturing as well?

Sputnik 1 should be fairly straightforward.

As for the rust, I was already thinking of some sort of rust coloured paint, then patches of masking, then top coat, then taking off the masking leaving patches of rust, which is pretty much what's going on in that article. Think I'll try it on some plastic card first.

TheFuglyStik
Mar 7, 2003

Attention-starved & smugly condescending, the hipster has been deemed by
top scientists as:
"The self-important, unemployable clowns of the modern age."

Plastic cement brushed onto the model and left to dry works well for creating a corroded texture that looks good under rust paint and a bit of pastel weathering. Just don't go overboard or your part will turn into a puddle or crumple up if it's thin enough.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.



Unkempt posted:

As for the rust, I was already thinking of some sort of rust coloured paint, then patches of masking, then top coat, then taking off the masking leaving patches of rust, which is pretty much what's going on in that article. Think I'll try it on some plastic card first.

the Salt'n'Hairspray method works well here - put down random rust/metal colours, sprinkle salt on top, seal in place with hairspray, spray with topcoat colour, rub/wash the salt off to reveal the rust colour.

Generator
Jan 14, 2008



So after completeing my Revell helicopter a while ago, I wanted more airfixy goodness!




After making this:



I have decided on a new project to keep me occupied for the next however long.

I am going to make a further 8 of them, mount them in a frame like this (but canopy facing out):



With coloured cotton wool for the smoke.

Going to hang it on my wall when its done.

EvilMuppet
Jul 28, 2006

Bork Bork Bork


Generator posted:

So after completeing my Revell helicopter a while ago, I wanted more airfixy goodness!




After making this:



I have decided on a new project to keep me occupied for the next however long.

I am going to make a further 8 of them, mount them in a frame like this (but canopy facing out):



With coloured cotton wool for the smoke.

Going to hang it on my wall when its done.

Some shading and highlighting would do wonders for this, at the moment it looks like a toy. Even just blacklining the panels with ink and some light drybrushing would be good.

Granite Octopus
Jun 24, 2008



EvilMuppet posted:

Some shading and highlighting would do wonders for this, at the moment it looks like a toy. Even just blacklining the panels with ink and some light drybrushing would be good.

I was thinking exactly this. Would make it really come to life. Good job with the rest of it though. The joins and everything look good

Generator
Jan 14, 2008



Granite Octopus posted:

I was thinking exactly this. Would make it really come to life. Good job with the rest of it though. The joins and everything look good

I shall have a look into this, bit nervous about ruining it though!

Also, I meant to ask, does anyone have a good way of getting rid of the joins in plastic kit models?

Filler and sand it down? If so, and UK goons know a good source of this?

No Pun Intended
Jul 23, 2007

DWARVEN SEX OFFENDER

ASK ME ABOUT TONING MY FINE ASS DWARVEN BOOTY BY RUNNING FROM THE COPS OUTSIDE THAT ELF KINDERGARTEN

BEHOLD THE DONG OF THE DWARVES! THE DWARVEN DONG IS COMING!


That or fill the gaps with a putty. Tamiya make a white putty for this purpose, it is sandable etc. Although I haven't used it myself so someone else might have to post that info.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.



Anyone got a source for Aves sculptie in the UK? I've got Ebay (ripoff) & Antenocitis workshop (always out of stock).

Somewhat Heroic
Oct 11, 2007

(Insert Mad Max related text)




Ha! What an awesome thread. To the dude building the Oceanic 815, godspeed. That is freaking sweet! I worked at a hobby store when I was sixteen - twenty-two. My hobby was the RC stuff, and I am going to join the "Scale" along with radio controlled.
Too contribute to the thread, this thing is radio controlled (not mine).



I will be working on building a scale rock crawler (probably not as awesome as this one) over the next few weeks.

Unkempt
May 24, 2003

Sexual Air Supply




Somewhat Heroic posted:

Ha! What an awesome thread. To the dude building the Oceanic 815, godspeed. That is freaking sweet!

815's sort of on hold at the moment. I think that was a bit ambitious for a first try (I completely hosed up the paint job).

I did make this, though:


- and I'm currently trying to make a Revell VW type 1 minibus into a type 2 minibus, for obvious reasons.

Nebakenezzer
Sep 13, 2005

The Mote in God's Eye



Hey Generator, random photo I saw on Airliners.net:



(This is probably redundant for most readers but airliners.net is a awesome resource for airplane modelers.)

ASSTASTIC
Apr 26, 2003

Hey Gusy!

Somewhat Heroic posted:

Ha! What an awesome thread. To the dude building the Oceanic 815, godspeed. That is freaking sweet! I worked at a hobby store when I was sixteen - twenty-two. My hobby was the RC stuff, and I am going to join the "Scale" along with radio controlled.
Too contribute to the thread, this thing is radio controlled (not mine).



I will be working on building a scale rock crawler (probably not as awesome as this one) over the next few weeks.

Uhh...wtf that is awesome. The wheels are too white though.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.



Somewhat Heroic posted:

Too contribute to the thread, this thing is radio controlled (not mine).



I will be working on building a scale rock crawler (probably not as awesome as this one) over the next few weeks.

This hurts my brain I know it's a model but the only things that look wrong are the screws on the rear lights & something about the lower damper pins. Otherwise it's a struggle. What scale is it?

Somewhat Heroic
Oct 11, 2007

(Insert Mad Max related text)




ASSTASTIC posted:

Uhh...wtf that is awesome. The wheels are too white though.

Those wheels come from a company called RC4WD. They are "OEM Steel Wheels". They are functional beadlock wheels that are steel. As you drive the model, ding up the wheels and run through mud and whatever they will get an authentic rust.

Cakefool posted:

This hurts my brain I know it's a model but the only things that look wrong are the screws on the rear lights & something about the lower damper pins. Otherwise it's a struggle. What scale is it?

Haha - yeah it is a mind trip! It is 1/10, and started life as a Tamiya Hilux High Lift which are awesome by themselves. They are 4WD, you can lock the front and rear diffs, or leave them open, they have a functional 3 speed transmission that you can shift on the fly while driving. The truck is mainly stock with optional parts from RC4WD.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cs3tdc9gz6g

Wibbleman
Apr 19, 2006

Fluffy doesn't want to be sacrificed



And heres a really crazy scratch detailed bradley.

http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=SquawkBox&file=index&req=viewtopic&topic_id=107003&page=1

Its really nuts, and he has been working on it since 2004.

Otterspace
Jul 13, 2006

This is not a good idea.


Just thought I'd chime in with a report on the putty I used for my air bubbles in resin- thanks for the replies, it so happens that I lucked out and found Aves Apoxie-Sculpt at my hobby store and it works great. I'm pleasantly surprised at how it works like clay and how rock-hard it dries. Now I wish I had used it to repair my original before casting (superglue boo) but oh well.

Xenomrph
Dec 9, 2005

AvP Nerd/Fanboy/Shill



I posted about this in the Internet Necromancy thread in GBS; it was recommended I post about it here.

So I've had pictures of these model kits on my harddrive for years:









I knew literally nothing about them, but decided I needed to build them (or things like them.

I found out that the top one with the little pilot dude was made by MiG Productions, and the bottom one is from Maschinen Krieger. I managed to pick up one from eBay the other day, in fact. It's called a "Krote":


It was $50 and it's 1/20 scale. It hasn't arrived yet but it looks like it'll be a fun kit to build.

I love wacky WWII alternate-history occult super-science poo poo, and while it turns out that those aren't strictly WWII models, they match the design aesthetic enough and I think they look really cool.

I guess my question is, does anyone know a non-bank-breakingly way to get more of these things? I've checked eBay and they actually don't have much (other than a lot of Maschinen Krieger "armored fighting suits" in 1/20 and 1/35 scale, and they're pretty pricey).
I've also checked Hobby Link Japan and while they listed some stuff on the site, a lot of it was out-of-stock. Seems that a lot of the Maschinen Krieger stuff is actually from the 1980s and is out-of-stock, too.

I also stumbled across Dust which is somewhat similar, but their stuff seems to be either very expensive ($100+ per 1:35 model seems rather pricey to me) or out-of-stock.

alcyon
Mar 9, 2010



Hello. Xenomorph, If you look at page 9 you'll see a semi finished and heavily modded Ma.k Krote I am building and on page 10 the start of another Ma.k scratchbuild I am undertaking: a Neuspinne.

As far as the picture you posted the top one was not made by MIG but a far older build. (the pilot is a modded tamiya 1/20 F1 figure. fe.) The mecha is not a Ma.k, or maschinen krieger but something similar-ish universe.
The second is indeed a Krote as designed by Kow Sensei, and the 50$ you paid for it is a VERY decent price. As you already figured out a lot of the Ma.k kits are loooong OOP and pretty rare. Luckily Wave and Hasegawa have started new production of some kits and if you know where to look there are also some garage-kit companies making very cool , but expensive kits as well. PLEASE, dont be tempted to buy those cheap chinese recast knockoffs from ebay, they suck and hurt the genuine industry as well. If you want to know more about the universe (It's not a WWII spinoff or some BS like that btw.) you nmight want to check out maschienenkrueger.com and its forum, or send me a pm.

alcyon fucked around with this message at 22:02 on May 17, 2010

Xenomrph
Dec 9, 2005

AvP Nerd/Fanboy/Shill



Thanks for the reply.

I know they're not actually WWII (isn't the Ma.K stuff set in the year 2800 or something?), it's just the general design aesthetic. Like, mechs and suits like that wouldn't look out of place in a Wolfenstein video game or something like that.

So the top one I posted (the one with the little pilot standing next to it) isn't by MiG? Do you know what company made it?

Also if you or anyone else insult my beloved WWII wacky occult super-science genre by calling it "BS", I will cut you.

I'm not being serious, I just love that genre

Sun Dog
Dec 25, 2002

Old School Gamer.



Xenomrph posted:









I found out that the top one with the little pilot dude was made by MiG Productions, and the bottom one is from Maschinen Krieger. I managed to pick up one from eBay the other day, in fact. It's called a "Krote":


It was $50 and it's 1/20 scale. It hasn't arrived yet but it looks like it'll be a fun kit to build.

I love wacky WWII alternate-history occult super-science poo poo, and while it turns out that those aren't strictly WWII models, they match the design aesthetic enough and I think they look really cool.

These mecha are about the most beautiful models I have ever seen. Waiting for updates from Alcyon is what keeps me watching this thread. <3

alcyon
Mar 9, 2010



Xenomrph posted:

Thanks for the reply.

I know they're not actually WWII (isn't the Ma.K stuff set in the year 2800 or something?), it's just the general design aesthetic. Like, mechs and suits like that wouldn't look out of place in a Wolfenstein video game or something like that.

So the top one I posted (the one with the little pilot standing next to it) isn't by MiG? Do you know what company made it?

Also if you or anyone else insult my beloved WWII wacky occult super-science genre by calling it "BS", I will cut you.

I'm not being serious, I just love that genre

Yup, the fictional universe is set in 28XX, though there isn't a whole lot of backstory to it, just two forces trying to re-colonize a barren and nuked earth. Neither side is the bad guy really. The only real canon background is Kow Yokohama's beautiful illustrations and a few shards of text. Funnily enough, besides it being a bleak distopia, there isn't any real bloodshed in any of the pictures. One of the things I like most about the 'look' is that all suits and robots are really underpowered. Most carry no more than a single Panzerschreck, quite a twist on the usual godlike-mecha trope.

About the short and stocky walker: unfortunately my harddisk died last week so I do not have any pictures or hard leads on it. I do know it certainly is not designed by MIG. MIG's Fichtenfoo only recently started designing and building mechas for the company.
But if I remember correctly it is probably from the 'Blechmann' universe (or maybe 'Junktankrock'). (you might want to google both for some interesting stuff btw.) More likely than not, it was a scratchbuild, a one of a kind, or a limited-run resin kit at best.
Sorry I can't quite remember, I am old and senile and it has been a few years since I've last seen that picture. I will have a look for it though if you want me to.

Sun Dog posted:

Waiting for updates from Alcyon is what keeps me watching this thread. <3
Oh great, now I feel guilty for slacking of. I do kinda owe you more pictures... (Thanks btw)


Edit: Just remembered, while we are on the subject of strange and cool looking SF stuff, you guys might want to check out this: http://www.flickr.com/photos/makfreak/collections/72157621780033836/. Scratchbuilds by Mark Stevens, pure awesomeness.

alcyon fucked around with this message at 11:05 on May 18, 2010

Xenomrph
Dec 9, 2005

AvP Nerd/Fanboy/Shill



I glanced through the thread and didn't really see it mentioned (but maybe I'm just dumb ) but does anyone have any tips/tutorials for working with resin model kits? I've done lead models, I've done pewter models, and I've done plastic models, but I've never worked with resin.

Anything special I should know when it comes to prepping/priming/assembling/painting the stuff?

Wibbleman
Apr 19, 2006

Fluffy doesn't want to be sacrificed



Xenomrph posted:

I glanced through the thread and didn't really see it mentioned (but maybe I'm just dumb ) but does anyone have any tips/tutorials for working with resin model kits? I've done lead models, I've done pewter models, and I've done plastic models, but I've never worked with resin.

Anything special I should know when it comes to prepping/priming/assembling/painting the stuff?

Wear a face mask, a nice big particle filter mask, as you need to do lots and lots of sanding, and the resin they use tends to be horribly horribly bad for you (like you die if you do it too much). Otherwise, be sure to wash much more throughly than the white metal kits, and put down a nice thin undercoat (dilute mr surfacer 1200/1000 works really well). You will also want to pin things as CA doesn't like resin too much in my experence. So I tend to use two part epoxy (obviously small bits you can get away with CA).

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.



I read someplace about working with resin wet, i.e. keep spraying it with water when sanding etc to keep the dust down. As I'm going to be poisoning myself trying to cast at some point this interested me. Seems like it'd work & prevent the dust getting everywhere, anyone have an opinion on this?

Xenomrph
Dec 9, 2005

AvP Nerd/Fanboy/Shill



Wibbleman posted:

Wear a face mask, a nice big particle filter mask, as you need to do lots and lots of sanding, and the resin they use tends to be horribly horribly bad for you (like you die if you do it too much). Otherwise, be sure to wash much more throughly than the white metal kits, and put down a nice thin undercoat (dilute mr surfacer 1200/1000 works really well). You will also want to pin things as CA doesn't like resin too much in my experence. So I tend to use two part epoxy (obviously small bits you can get away with CA).
Jesus christ. This sounds like a loving nightmare. I mean, I take my model-building hobby pretty seriously, but not "poison myself to death" seriously.

What should I be doing for sanding? Like, am I sanding the whole model? If so, why? I mean, I'm familiar with using metal files on metal/plastic models, but I've never had to use sandpaper on a model before.

Likewise, I've also never had to pin a model, which sounds like a pain in the rear end.

God damnit. I bought a bunch of "Secrets of the 3rd Reich" models just because I thought they looked cool, under the assumption that when the item descriptions said "multi-part lead models" that the ENTIRE model was made of metal. Turns out the one I've gotten so far seems to be resin with a few metal parts like gun barrels and stuff, and now I'm worried that ALL of them will be resin or some poo poo.
This is turning into a nightmare.

This is the one I've gotten so far:



These are the ones I'm expecting in the mail:


Click here for the full 842x596 image.



Click here for the full 1024x768 image.

Xenomrph fucked around with this message at 07:12 on May 21, 2010

No Pun Intended
Jul 23, 2007

DWARVEN SEX OFFENDER

ASK ME ABOUT TONING MY FINE ASS DWARVEN BOOTY BY RUNNING FROM THE COPS OUTSIDE THAT ELF KINDERGARTEN

BEHOLD THE DONG OF THE DWARVES! THE DWARVEN DONG IS COMING!


Xenomrph posted:

Jesus christ. This sounds like a loving nightmare. I mean, I take my model-building hobby pretty seriously, but not "poison myself to death" seriously.

What should I be doing for sanding? Like, am I sanding the whole model? If so, why? I mean, I'm familiar with using metal files on metal/plastic models, but I've never had to use sandpaper on a model before.

Likewise, I've also never had to pin a model, which sounds like a pain in the rear end.


You will only need a mask if you are sanding*. Otherwise you can treat resin as you do say a plastic model kit. You should only need to clean up flash and mold lines, so no you don't need to sand the whole model.

When dealing to the mold lines you can scrape along them with your hobby knife to remove them. Anything more stubborn probably will require sanding, you can try to gouge them down with a knife but sanding is far far easier.

When sanding I have found it handy to sand / wash / sand - repeat. I don't keep it wet during the sanding process though.

*Resin is not good to breathe in but it is chronic exposure to particulate matter which really will do you in - go read up on black lung.

Xenomrph
Dec 9, 2005

AvP Nerd/Fanboy/Shill



So I sanded and washed my first resin model (the one pictured above) and managed to snap it off at the knees while trying to cut away some of the mold flash.
It's a clean break and it should go back together without an issue, but that brings me to my next problems:

1. Anything I need to know about gluing resin to resin, or gluing metal to resin? The model has a bunch of little bits (the arms, guns, pilot, etc) that are metal that I'll be pegging in and/or gluing on to the main resin body.

2. Anything I should know about priming resin? I've got some matte black indoor/outdoor spraypaint I always use for my metal/plastic models, but I've got no idea how well it'll hold on resin.

Thanks again!

alcyon
Mar 9, 2010



1) Ordinary Cyanoacrylate glue (known as CA-glue) should work fine.

2)

Xenomrph posted:

I've got some matte black indoor/outdoor spraypaint I always use for my metal/plastic models
Be more specific please, 'black paint' could be just about anything. Does the can have a label?
As for proper choices for a primer: Already mentioned but mr.surfacer 1000/1200 is my own favorite, tamiya also makes some great spraycan primers. Hell even basic krylon primer could work. What ever brand you choose be sure to wash your resin parts beforehand or else it wont stick.

Resin really isn't that problematic imo.

Xenomrph
Dec 9, 2005

AvP Nerd/Fanboy/Shill



alcyon posted:

Be more specific please, 'black paint' could be just about anything. Does the can have a label?
As for proper choices for a primer: Already mentioned but mr.surfacer 1000/1200 is my own favorite, tamiya also makes some great spraycan primers. Hell even basic krylon primer could work. What ever brand you choose be sure to wash your resin parts beforehand or else it wont stick.
It's "ColorPlace" brand indoor-outdoor matte black spraypaint. It's essentially the same as Krylon primer.

I just glued everything together, superglue worked great and set pretty much instantly (like, in a matter of seconds). I'm almost done assembling the thing, there's one metal piece that's being finicky and doesn't want to fit right, and I've got one mystery piece that I honestly can't figure out where it's supposed to go.

Wibbleman
Apr 19, 2006

Fluffy doesn't want to be sacrificed



Xenomrph posted:

Jesus christ. This sounds like a loving nightmare. I mean, I take my model-building hobby pretty seriously, but not "poison myself to death" seriously.

What should I be doing for sanding? Like, am I sanding the whole model? If so, why? I mean, I'm familiar with using metal files on metal/plastic models, but I've never had to use sandpaper on a model before.

Likewise, I've also never had to pin a model, which sounds like a pain in the rear end.


Resin is not horrible, it just requires a few more saftey steps as it is pretty nasty (like nose bleeds nasty), Sanding is usually for the mold lines, flash, joints and pour blocks. But your best tool is a microsaw and being careful to not snort the dust I just use a 3m sanding mask ($10 or so) and that blocks pretty much everything. Occasionally depending on how good the company your getting the model from your requirements for sanding or filling might be near zero, or you could have a huge amount to do.

Pining is not that hard, it just requires some practice and occasionally you have to do nuts things like drill through both parts from the outside so its all lined up right and then fill the hole after the pin is in it. The best way I saw how to do it was in a p3 vid, in that after you have drilled one hole, you just some blu-tack on the joint and push the parts together and then you can see where the hole is and what angle its at, so its much easier to drill at that point.

Xenomrph
Dec 9, 2005

AvP Nerd/Fanboy/Shill



Wibbleman posted:

Resin is not horrible, it just requires a few more saftey steps as it is pretty nasty (like nose bleeds nasty), Sanding is usually for the mold lines, flash, joints and pour blocks. But your best tool is a microsaw and being careful to not snort the dust I just use a 3m sanding mask ($10 or so) and that blocks pretty much everything. Occasionally depending on how good the company your getting the model from your requirements for sanding or filling might be near zero, or you could have a huge amount to do.

Pining is not that hard, it just requires some practice and occasionally you have to do nuts things like drill through both parts from the outside so its all lined up right and then fill the hole after the pin is in it. The best way I saw how to do it was in a p3 vid, in that after you have drilled one hole, you just some blu-tack on the joint and push the parts together and then you can see where the hole is and what angle its at, so its much easier to drill at that point.
Awesome, thanks for the tips, I'll pick up a sanding mask next time I'm near Home Depot (or does Wal-Mart or something carry those, too?).

Thankfully I didn't need to do any pinning or even very much sanding or filing for the model I just assembled. It's all assembled except for the cockpit "frame" which is one big piece and one smaller piece. The big piece is meant to fit flush against the front of the main "torso" of the mech and it really isn't fitting flush yet. I'm working on bending the metal and filing it down a bit to get a better fit, but it's being a pain in the rear end. After I get the two cockpit pieces on, the thing will actually be totally assembled and then I can prime and paint it.

Gotta say, though, between plastic, metal, and resin, resin has been my least favorite by far.

Ensign Expendable
Nov 11, 2008

Lager beer is proof that god loves us


Pillbug

How do people manage to get eyes painted on their scale models? Whenever I try to go for any face detail on various 1/35 plastics, I get a blurry mess, especially if there's primer underneath. Am I priming wrong? Dry-brushing the face without a primer at least makes the features stand out.

Midjack
Dec 24, 2007





Xenomrph posted:

Awesome, thanks for the tips, I'll pick up a sanding mask next time I'm near Home Depot (or does Wal-Mart or something carry those, too?).

Wal-mart might, try looking in the paint section. People sanding paint off houses would want them too. I always get a P100 filter because I use them for other things too but you can probably get away with an N rated filter.

Xenomrph
Dec 9, 2005

AvP Nerd/Fanboy/Shill



Does anyone have any tips for painting battlefield "wear and tear" on military vehicles? Blackened gun barrels, mud splatter on tank tracks, dings and dents from blasts and impacts, things like that.

No Pun Intended
Jul 23, 2007

DWARVEN SEX OFFENDER

ASK ME ABOUT TONING MY FINE ASS DWARVEN BOOTY BY RUNNING FROM THE COPS OUTSIDE THAT ELF KINDERGARTEN

BEHOLD THE DONG OF THE DWARVES! THE DWARVEN DONG IS COMING!


Forums user big_g posted this over in the historicals thread:


big_g posted:




to which he replied when I asked how he achieved that effect:

big_g posted:

What I do for the chipping is paint on a patch of the next shade up from whatever the base colour is along an edge or high wear area so its fairly bright. Then I fill inside with black leaving a thin outline of the bright colour. I then put a thin line of dark grey along the edge of the tank inside the black.

Works for most things but is best on edges or really high wear areas.

Also Battlefront have this article on winter weathering, but the masking techniques can be extrapolated over to other forms of wear and tear.

No Pun Intended fucked around with this message at 08:55 on May 26, 2010

Vaporware
May 22, 2004

Still not here yet.

Hmm, lets see if we can boil down proper weathering. If you remember painting models as a kid and drybrushing silver all over or scratching the canopy with an exacto to spiderweb it, you'll remember they looked pretty over the top. Chime in if I missed a technique, I'm sure I did.

Wear/age damage:
Sponging metallics to simulate pocked metal, but don't use bright silvers unless aluminum/titanium/magnesium is the base material. or it's recent damage. it should be tarnished or darkened due to oxidation.
Sponging Rust to simulate superficial rusting
Edge lightening - I use a long brush for a more even line
Chips - painted with a small brush
Salt & Hairspray - a type of masking for tiny random wear effects
Vegemite/Marmite/Toothpaste mask - same as salt, but not as sharp, can

Washes:
Acrylic Wash - great for shadows and large scale effects like mud or dirt
Oil Wash - better for scaled water and oil effects, i.e. the drops and rivulets can be made smaller than an equivalent acrylic wash, better adhesion.
Green Wash - Simulating patina on brass or copper.

Drybrushing:
Uh, Drybrushing - sort of a one trick pony, but I love it. Use in moderation.

Pastels: (note you need to seal these after application, there is no binder)
dust - Grinding up an earth tone and powdering it on
shading - grind it up and paint it on lightly with a soft brush

Texturing:
Using a putty, sculpting surface damage to enhance effects like drybrushing.

Here's a few cool examples of very heavy wear & weathering I've seen recently on a DIY WWR dropcloth (not mine)







Texturing


Xenomrph
Dec 9, 2005

AvP Nerd/Fanboy/Shill



Awesome, thanks guys! That's REALLY helpful.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Xenomrph
Dec 9, 2005

AvP Nerd/Fanboy/Shill



Sorry for the double-post - are there any handy guides for painting different kinds of WWII-era camo? Thanks again!

Edit-- also, any suggestions for painting unit numbers or whatever on tanks, planes, etc? I've done some kits that came with decals you could apply, but I've got some kits that I'd need to do numbers myself (or buy decals I guess, if that's an option?).

Xenomrph fucked around with this message at 20:10 on May 26, 2010

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply