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PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~


PAINTING MEGATHREAD BOOYAH

(56k get out)


After the reasonably good success of the Tales thread, I've decided to make a newer, all inclusive thread for the craft of miniature painting and modelling.

I felt that the rules of the tales/oath/etc thread were a bit restrictive and keeping a lot of great posters from participating.



So, that being said. Here's the "rules"

1. Post with content. Feel free to find badass new miniatures online, nicely painted stuff on CMON, stuff on other forums like warseer (lol), etc. and post them here. POST YOUR MODELS ALL OVER DIS BITCH (crosspost like a mofo from the wh thread, we dont care, we just want pics!)

2. Dont be a babby about critique. If you cant handle it, dont post. That being said, be constructive in your critique of others.

3. No images wider than 1000 pixels.

4. No posts about wargaming rules/etc. at all. Just modelling and painting.

5. At my discretion, I will post finished models (only stuff that you have painted since this thread started) in the OP. I will also post links to painting resources in the OP.

PaintVagrant fucked around with this message at 08:29 on Aug 5, 2012

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PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~


PHOTO HELP LINKS
http://www.miniaturewargaming.com/i...e_Toy_Soldiers/]

GENERAL PAINTING LINKS

FTWs GIGANTIC LIST OF LINKS
http://fromthewarp.blogspot.com/p/archives.html

B&C Space Marine Painter Tool
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/smpbeta.php

PAINTING TUTORIAL LINKS
Biel-Tan Eldar Tutorial
http://www.whmpg.com/?page_id=76

A SHITLOAD OF BASING LINKS
http://www.necrotales.com/necroTuto...se_plants01.php
http://archive.brushthralls.com/bas...textures-2.html
http://archive.brushthralls.com/bas...k-and-snow.html
http://archive.brushthralls.com/bas...ate-basing.html
http://thepaintingcorps.blogspot.co...ork-basing.html
http://blog.brushthralls.com/?page_id=3381[/url]
http://www.necrotales.com/necroTuto...base_rock01.php
http://salmondworks.com/blog/?p=156[/url]
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/...showarticle=146

Snow Bases:
http://www.belloflostsouls.net/2008...now-basing.html
http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/c...400036a&start=1
http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/c...mes+Workshop%29

SCULPTING LINKS
B&C making "scaled" cloth/etc guide:
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/...howtopic=180116

INSTAMOLD/ETC QUICK CASTING LINKS
http://cgi.ebay.com/Oyumaru-Clay-Cr...t-/300535222492
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vz8FwUEFMzY
http://forums.somethingawful.com/sh...4#post391368435

SUPPLY PURCHASE LINKS
Winsor and Newton Series 7 Brushes:
http://www.dickblick.com/products/w...-pointed-round/
http://www.dickblick.com/products/w...iature-brushes/

Modeling:
Brass Rod Weapon Hafts: http://salmondworks.com/blog/?p=278
Greenstuff Icon Molds: http://swchq.co.uk/minus_ts_guide_to_greenstuf.php
Greenstuff Tips and Tricks: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforu...ist/242387.page
Greenstuff to disguise joins: http://blog.brushthralls.com/?page_id=1696
Make a Foamcore Rabbet Cutter: http://www.terragenesis.co.uk/infopages/page381.html
Pinning: http://archive.brushthralls.com/modelling/pinning.html
Pre-Heresy Terminator Shoulder Pads: http://fromthewarp.blogspot.com/200...ulder-pads.html
Resin Casting Tutorial: http://ultrawerke.blogspot.com/2007...ial-part-i.html
Scratch Building Tutorial: http://ultrawerke.blogspot.com/2007...ial-part-i.html
Sculpting 101: http://blog.brushthralls.com/?page_id=1666
Sculpting 102: http://blog.brushthralls.com/?page_id=1875
Sculpting Chains: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforu...ist/242226.page

Painting:
Object Source Lighting: http://blog.brushthralls.com/?page_id=1916
Painted Horses: http://thepaintingcorps.blogspot.co...inting+Corps%29
Female Eyes: http://www.reapermini.com/TheCraft/12
Female Faces: http://www.jenova.dk/Faces.htm
Female Faces (another): http://www.minizilla.com/sintricat/painting_faces.html
Playing with Fire: http://archive.brushthralls.com/pai...-with-fire.html
Rust Effects (with real rust): http://www.wideopenwest.com/~tinweasel/rust_tut.html
Sepia Gold: http://thepaintingcorps.blogspot.co...sepia-gold.html
Skintones: http://www.jenova.dk/Skintones.htm
Sponge Painting Damage: http://i41.tinypic.com/2qvggtx.jpg
Step-by-Step Chaos Warrior: http://www.jrn-works.dk/tutorials/t...orIntro&lan=eng
Tank Weathering: http://thepaintingcorps.blogspot.co...d-painting.html
The Painting Clinic: http://www.paintingclinic.com/MainClinic.dwt.htm
Painting Leather: http://fromthewarp.blogspot.com/201...-quick-way.html

Photos
Homemade Light Box: http://www.studiolighting.net/homem...ct-photography/
How to Make a Light Tent: http://digital-photography-school.c...sive-light-tent

Terrain:
Books & Scrolls: http://www.terragenesis.co.uk/infopages/page562.html
HirstArts: http://www.hirstarts.com/index.html
SalmondWorks: http://salmondworks.com/
TerraGenesis: http://terragenesis.co.uk/
Terrain Thralls: http://www.terrainthralls.com/Tutor.../Tutorials.html

Airbrushing

HKR's airbrush post: http://forums.somethingawful.com/sh...0#post374381003


Chat
irc.synirc.net #tinypewtermen

MORE
General/multi-topic, full of tutorials, occasional poor english (most authors on the site are German): http://massivevoodoo.blogspot.com/2...l-overview.html
Useful forum with a large number of outstanding painters posting (Australia focus): http://www.mainlymedieval.com/ozpainters/index.php
Sand-casting foam terrain: http://www.reapermini.com/TheCraft/48
Process behind a nice resin display base: http://www.reapermini.com/TheCraft/49
A couple decent tutorials/step-by-steps from an excellent painter: http://volomir.blogspot.com/

PaintVagrant fucked around with this message at 17:45 on Feb 12, 2012

PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~


HELP ME IM A TOTAL NOOB WHAT DO I BUY/DO!?

stabbington posted:

Prepare for . Helpfully divided into supplies, prep, and painting sections for your convenience.

Supplies
Universal: You're going to need some glue. If you're putting together GW plastics, get plastic glue (GW will sell you some, I personally like Tamiya Extra Thin Cement, other people swear by Revel Contacta Pro, it doesn't matter that much). For anything else, a gap-filling superglue is good (Zap-a-Gap, purple-label BSI Instacure, loctite gel, etc).

You'll also want an xacto knife. You can buy them pretty much anywhere that sells art supplies or tools, just make sure it's the kind with replaceable blades. Optionally, you can also pick up a pair of clippers. Xuron makes the best ones and Privateer Press resells them under the P3 label, or you can buy from GW or whatever your hobby/game shop has on the wall.

Finally, you'll need a jar to keep paint water in (empty pasta sauce, salsa, or pickle jars are my favorite, because they are difficult to mistake for the glass I keep drinking water in) and some paper towels. Some newspaper to keep paint off your desk/table is nice but optional.

Minimum additional cost (~$25), moderate-high effort option: go to an art store and buy some cheap synthetic watercolor brushes, round size 2 and smaller (starting with a 0 or 1 will probably be better if you've never painted anything before), with a 3/0 (occasionally seen as 000) being your smallest. Princeton is a decent brand name for this (their Series 6150 watercolor brushes in particular). While you're there, find a cheap multi-well plastic palette tray (optional if you're really on a budget).

Next stop, walmart or whatever for a can of Krylon flat black spray paint.

Finally, paint. What colors you need depends on what you want to paint, but you can't go wrong buying a white, black, red, yellow, and blue - using these 5 colors, you can mix pretty much any other hue. If you want to stay cheap, I recommend Delta Ceramcoat, it's by far the best cheap craft paint out there.

Moderate cost (~$35), low effort: Go to a GW store. Buy this thing or one of its equivalents if you like the colors in the other ones better.

Buy the aforementioned Krylon flat black.

High cost, high effort: Why is this even an option? This is all poo poo you'll end up wanting eventually if you stick with the hobby and want maximum results, so you save yourself some money in the long run by just buying in at the start.

Go to an art store. Buy a Winsor & Newton Series 7 or Raphael 8404 Size 2, 1, 0, and 3/0. Buy the aforementioned plastic palette. Pick up some brush soap for those nice brushes while you're there. A dropper bottle of some sort wouldn't hurt, either.

Krylon flat black returns, on account of being both cheapest and best in the black primer field (if you can get to an car shop more easily, Duplicolor Sandable Black Primer is as good and slightly more expensive). White primer can wait, and is a whole pile of controversy all on its own.

Paint: Find a hobby shop, buy GW black and white, boltgun metal, mithril silver, gryphonne sepia, devlan mud, badab black, along with P3 Menoth White Highlight, and whatever brand's colors you think are relevant to your project.

Prep
You've just opened your first box of plastic man-dollies, and they're all on this weird plastic thing (called a sprue) looking something like this:

Take your knife (or clippers, if you bought them) and trim the parts off. Make the cuts a bit away from the model so you don't accidentally chop off details. Now that you've got your pieces roughly chopped off the sprue, go back and trim the leftover bits off carefully. Always cut away from yourself, that knife is sharp as gently caress and will go through your fingers and hand no problem.

Once you've got everything trimmed, look for mold lines - these will appear as seams in the plastic, and are a nearly unavoidable relic of the model casting process. To remove them, scrape your knife along the line with the blade perpendicular to the surface, producing a small tuft of plastic shavings that is easily rubbed off.

Glue everything together, then glue it to the base.

Take your can of black spray paint, shake it well, and basically follow the instructions and advice in this article until he starts doing complicated stuff with multiple colors.

Wait a few hours.

Holy poo poo are we Painting Yet?
This is not the only way to paint, and it isn't always the way I paint, but it is a way to paint, and works well for beginners because it's relatively easy.

Getting paint onto your palette and thinning it: Pot-style paint (GW, P3): Take the non-brush end of your brush, get some paint on it, scrape that paint off onto your palette. Add a bit of water (figuring out the right ratio is a personal thing and varies a lot between individuals and paints, but you're looking for something that flows well and doesn't leave brushstrokes, about the consistency of heavy cream), then mix the two together.

Dropper bottles (Ceramcoat, Vallejo, Reaper): put a drop of paint on the pallete (you may need to run a needle through the dropper head if it doesn't flow immediately). Add water to achieve proper consistency (see above).

Basecoat: Get some paint on your brush, being careful not to let it get into the metal part (the ferrule - paint drying up in there is the number one cause of brush destruction). Roll your brush against a paper towel while pulling it back towards you to remove a bit off the water and reshape your brush into a point, then apply it to the area of the mini that you want to be that color.

Repeat this process with your various colors for the entire model, rinsing your brush in your water pot occasionally, and whenever you want to change colors.

Troubleshooting: If you get big blobs of it, you either have too much on your brush (solution: place your brush against the paper towel and let some of the excess seep off before trying again), or your paint is too thin (solution: add more paint to your paint/water mixture). If you see brushstrokes or your paint clogs details, your paint is too thick, add more water.

Simple Shading: Cover your model (or the parts you want shaded with that particular color) in a thin layer of a wash like GW's Badab Black or Devlan Mud, or a similar dark tone that you've made yourself (a simple shading wash can be made with a paint color darker than the base coat and enough water to make it relatively translucent), making sure that any pooling that happens is limited to recesses. Making sure your wash doesn't pool is important for preventing unsightly rings from forming on your model.

Simple Clean Highlighting: Using a lighter shade of your basecoat color (made by mixing that basecoat with a a lighter tone if necessary, see below for suggestions) , and making sure your brush has very little water on it (the paint should still be thinned, hold your brush against a towel to wick away excess water), carefully paint the portions of the model that would catch the light - upper surfaces, edges, etc.

Messy Highlighting (Drybrushing): Take a brush you don't care about. Get some paint (of your highlight tone) on it straight from the pot, then rub it against a paper towel until each stroke leaves only a small amount. Picking a direction that will cause your brush to not enter areas that should stay shaded, run your brush over the model, causing it to deposit small amounts of paint where it passes. Repeat as needed until the color feels acceptable. Works great for metals, not as awesome for things like cloth.

Highlighting Hints: Most colors are easy to mix highlight colors for using a white or off-white (P3 Menoth White Highlight and VMC Ice Yellow or Ivory being perennial favorites around here). Oranges, reds, and purples aren't, unless you're painting a creamsicle or something pink. Oranges and reds both benefit from a bright yellow being added to them. Purples generally want a red or orange. There's a bunch of technical reasons behind this, but that's the end result.

Hope that helps!

PaintVagrant fucked around with this message at 15:31 on Mar 16, 2012

PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~


So Ill start this off with some poo poo ive painted recently, as well as some miniatures I have boners for:

My stuff:





Stuff I have boners for:



PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~


Post some painting tutorial/etc links up in dis

Pagan
Jun 3, 2003



Has anyone actually purchased videos from

http://www.miniaturementor.com/painting_tutorials.html these guys? Is it worth it? I'd love to be able to see someone paint, so I can figure out what I'm doing wrong, but at those prices it's pretty steep.

I'm not the best painter of regular guys, but I'll post a few things here.



Some SM scouts and a vehicle. These are my newest / best completed squad.

I'm very pleased with my vehicles, but always looking to get better.





PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~


This thread is all about teaching you new stuff, so feel free to post your wips and stuff and we will help you

That guys stuff looks nice, If youve already got all the cool mini paintign tools and paitns you need, it might be worth taking a swing at one of his DVDs.

!amicable
Jan 20, 2007


PaintVagrant posted:

So Ill start this off with some poo poo ive painted recently, as well as some miniatures I have boners for:

My stuff:
I see how it's gonna be.

PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~


Post your new rad sculpts duder

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

Pagan, go here and watch this dude's videos. You'll probably want to mute the lovely music but dude is a good painter. These are probably the best "how to paint" videos I've seen. Well-shot, well-lit, dude def knows what he's doing.

Edit for ownage pic:


removed dead image link

Fyrbrand fucked around with this message at 17:13 on Feb 3, 2015

Danger - Octopus!
Apr 20, 2008




Nap Ghost

I'm pretty happy with the half of a Blood Bowl team that I've finished so far. Not amazing compared to some of the pro skills on display elsewhere, but hey. Mostly I need to work on actually taking time on models so as to get some skills down, rather than just cutting corners and doing things quickly.





(cue all the 'I paint for commission, check out my pro blending and nmm' guys kicking sand in the face of the bungling amateurs)

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

Eh.



I approve of this thread and hope to post some newer work here sometime shortly. In the meantime, here's a bunch of my Crimson Fists from the last year or so!















That should do for now.

Danger - Octopus!
Apr 20, 2008




Nap Ghost

PaintVagrant posted:



How do these kind of bases work? Do you get a base with a sunken bit in the middle, a scenic bit and a miniature; are you supposed to provide the scenic bit yourself or is it moulded onto the miniatures feet?

Devlan Mud
Apr 10, 2006




I'll hear your stories when we come back, alright?


Danger - Octopus! posted:

How do these kind of bases work? Do you get a base with a sunken bit in the middle, a scenic bit and a miniature; are you supposed to provide the scenic bit yourself or is it moulded onto the miniatures feet?

The stock bases are plastic with a recessed center. You can buy full resin bases, and some people make white metal inserts for the bases, or you can just model in there yourself with greenstuff and plasticard. It is in 99.5% of the case not part of the stock model (with the exception of a few warmachine/hordes epic characters, and in those cases it is much less subtle).

Aranan
May 21, 2007

Release the Kraken


Pagan posted:

Has anyone actually purchased videos from

http://www.miniaturementor.com/painting_tutorials.html these guys?

I have not, but I do have these two DVDs:
Hot Lead: How to Paint a Better Miniature by Laszlo Jakusovszky
and
Volume 1: Core Techniques from Privateer Press. (It's "part 1" but it's been out for a year and no other parts have been released)

Laszlo's was 3 discs and "over 8 hours" but I feel a lot of it was from a poorly organized menu system where you have to listen to ~10 seconds of intro music for each section. It gets really annoying pretty quick. The production quality is higher than most of the vids you can find on YouTube, but it's still lacking--there are parts where the audio jumps when he's redubbing a section, the aforementioned menu shenanigans, and there are a few points when you hear conversations going on in the background. None of those are enough to render the sections worthless, but they are kind of irritating.

Some people will like that he isn't producing this for a particular company, so he mentions a lot of different paints--GW, Vallejo, Reaper, etc. It was interesting to see him paint, but I honestly didn't learn anything that I didn't already know from reading painting websites or just one of the threads here on SA.

The PP DVD is, obviously, produced by PP. So they're painting their models with their paints and their brushes, so I'm sure a lot of the PP haters will get turned off by that. The production quality is a lot higher, but there isn't as much content. The first 30 minutes are going over the basics of painting (tools, techniques, and a quick shot at how metal models are spun in their molds which I found cool) and the last ~30 minutes are going from start to finish, priming to basing, on three different PP models (Cygnar Ironclad, the Khador warcaster Sorscha, and a Legion of Everblight Raek).

Both DVDs have some previews up on YouTube, so you can check them out yourself.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2jizaUcrXY8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2pJJ5UODBfQ
More Hot Lead previews, including NMM

Bottom line: These DVDs cost way more than they're worth, especially considering the wealth of painting information available for free on the internet, or found far cheaper with other goodies in gaming magazines. Is it nice to see people paint? Sure. Is it worth $40/$30? It's up to you, but I say only get them if you've never held a model or paintbrush and have nobody to teach you. Otherwise, just bug PV and ask him how he does poo poo.

[edit] Haha, apparently these two VHS tutorial videos are done by a guy dressed up as a wizard. I found a nerdy nerd reviewing them on youtube and he had favorable things to say about them (especially since they're just $5 each on thewarstore). http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TGSS...feature=related

Aranan fucked around with this message at 23:44 on Oct 3, 2009

Spacefrog
Jul 26, 2009

X =


Pagan posted:

Has anyone actually purchased videos from

http://www.miniaturementor.com/painting_tutorials.html these guys? Is it worth it? I'd love to be able to see someone paint, so I can figure out what I'm doing wrong, but at those prices it's pretty steep.
I bought the Wolfen one a while back, and its worth pointing out a few things:

Firstly, its not a guide to painting the whole model from start to finish, theres a section where he just does the skin, one where he just does the flesh etc, if memory serves not although most parts of the model are covered, a couple aren't (I seem to remember a section on the sword, but nothing about the staff for example). Also, the paintjob he gives the model has blueish skin, even though the picture in the products part shows it with white.

The painter's english is good, but not perfect, which means its tricky for him to explain what he's doing to the guy making the video, its not a big deal but its noticable at times.

I wouldn't reccomend it if you're looking at how you should be painting, the french style is time-consuming as hell, and he covers techniques far better suited for display pieces than TT guys. But if you have the cash spare, theres certainly worse ways it could be spent, the overall quality of the tutorial is good, and its nice to see how the GD winners tackle ever the basic stuff like priming and paint thickness (we're talking something like 8 layers for a smooth basecoat ). I picked up the DVD simply because I prefer to have something physical, if you're unsure, could be worth getting the 30 dollar download, just don't expect it to turn you into a PR0 P41NT3R!!11! overnight.

The GBS thread got me back into the hobby after about a year, hopefully i'll be able to kick my lazy arse into gear and get some painting done.

This thread needs more orks (not mine):


Click here for the full 575x618 image.


Click here for the full 650x359 image.

PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~


ork landspeeder buggy

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

Posting a whole army shot, because dammit I want to. My camera sucks rear end, but oh well.

removed dead image link

Also gloss/dullcote owns. I just dropped a metal nob on tile floor, broke the bosspole off. Not a scratch on the paint though.

Fyrbrand fucked around with this message at 17:14 on Feb 3, 2015

Lovely Joe Stalin
Jun 12, 2007

We must finally understand
that of all the precious
capital in the world,
the most precious capital,
the most decisive capital,
is loveliness.
I'm lovely.
Hug me.
I'M LOVELY


A few examples of my decidedly average fare.

From about three years ago, when I'd just got back into the hobby:




And from a year ago:




I should be adding a fair bit to my Death Guard in the next few months. More troops, some tanks, maybe even the Great Unclean One.

Lovely Joe Stalin fucked around with this message at 00:25 on Oct 4, 2009

Zarkov Cortez
Aug 18, 2007

Alas, our kitten class attack ships were no match for their mighty chairs






A Powerful Cream
Jun 25, 2009

get ready to read some badposts b*tch!! - fdr to hitler, 1972


For you scrubs that don't go on EoW, and because I'm a major attention whore

Chaplain


Assault Squad with the then unpainted Chaplain chilling in the background


Tac Squad 1


Tac Squad 2


Legion of the Damned


Dreadnought


The full 1000 point crew!


C&C always welcome!

EDIT: Re-uploaded a couple of non-working links.

A Powerful Cream fucked around with this message at 01:09 on Oct 4, 2009

Yog-Sothoth
Mar 8, 2005

Yog-Sothoth is the key and the guardian of the gate

My dark elves and demons, most of these models are painted almost entirely with washes










Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

Washes are one of the best things GW has ever produced c/d?

Lovely Joe Stalin
Jun 12, 2007

We must finally understand
that of all the precious
capital in the world,
the most precious capital,
the most decisive capital,
is loveliness.
I'm lovely.
Hug me.
I'M LOVELY


Most definately. Pretty much everything I paint has a wash somewhere on it now. My Plague Marines are drenched in Devlan Mud.

Arlaharen
Aug 2, 2003

KISSIGA TESTIKLAR


This is pretty much the best I've painted in my opinion and I'm drat proud of it. Rip it apart.



Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

Eh.



Fyrbrand posted:

Washes are one of the best things GW has ever produced c/d?

They made painting 30-odd Crimson Fists in the space of just under 3 weeks possible!

Seriously, once my CF test model got heavily washed with Asurmen Blue (after shade/basecoat/highlight), it pulled the look together so completely that my motivation for painting was off the charts during that time.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

Grandpa Pap posted:

They made painting 30-odd Crimson Fists in the space of just under 3 weeks possible!

Seriously, once my CF test model got heavily washed with Asurmen Blue (after shade/basecoat/highlight), it pulled the look together so completely that my motivation for painting was off the charts during that time.

Washes are the only reason I've gotten my orks painted. Knarloc Green + Badab Black owns. Makes for a different kind of shade than most people's orks but I'm cool with that.

Arlaharen: That is seriously cool. I was going to say something about shading/highlighting, but I think what you did is just being washed out in the pic.

PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~


Arlaharen posted:

pureblood warpwolf

Its very nice man. If the photo had a bit more light to it we could see some of the shading/highlighting better, but it looks really nice and cleanly delineated.

The base is sexy.

e: holy poo poo this rules

PaintVagrant fucked around with this message at 03:50 on Oct 4, 2009

Ceritus
Jul 31, 2002

C'mon, all the cool kids are doing it.

Arlaharen posted:

This is pretty much the best I've painted in my opinion and I'm drat proud of it. Rip it apart.





Very nice. The fur looks to be blended very well, and the base is very elaborate. The leather and stitchwork have some nice contrast, too - most purebloods I've seen have all of that painted in the same shade, and it looks awful.

My only real criticisms are that the verdigris on the armor looks kind of strange - probably because the wash just pooled in the recesses of the plating and doesn't cover the rest. Also, the pureblood's left hand looks a little strange on that base since its not resting perfectly flat. (fingers jutting over the edge of the scenery).

Some of his spines/claws could use some touch-ups too, but I'm guessing that's just damage he's taken from table time?

Devlan Mud
Apr 10, 2006




I'll hear your stories when we come back, alright?







Jen Haley posted:

This was my third go at a monochrome miniature, a male ranger sculpted by Jeff Grace for Dark Sword and painted for a video tutorial. I like the dynamic pose of this model, and thought he would look interesting in the simple color scheme. RMS Walnut Brown and Creamy Ivory were the only two paints used.

PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~


I assume she meant colors, because she had to use white and black in addition to those two colors, right?

There seems to be some warm and cool transtions, which implies more than just 2 total paints...

Zarkov Cortez
Aug 18, 2007

Alas, our kitten class attack ships were no match for their mighty chairs


Arlaharen
Aug 2, 2003

KISSIGA TESTIKLAR


Thanks for the comments

Yeah, the photo is a bit washed out. I bought the stuff for making a light box but never got around to actually assembling it. I guess I need to read up a bit on that.

Ceritus posted:

My only real criticisms are that the verdigris on the armor looks kind of strange - probably because the wash just pooled in the recesses of the plating and doesn't cover the rest. Also, the pureblood's left hand looks a little strange on that base since its not resting perfectly flat. (fingers jutting over the edge of the scenery).

Some of his spines/claws could use some touch-ups too, but I'm guessing that's just damage he's taken from table time?

Totally agree on the armor plating. The verdigris was an experiment since I didn't want to go with the studio green/gold. I hoped I could take a shortcut and use Vallejo verdigris glaze, but I couldn't control the shading very well. Next time I'll mix my own.

I noticed the chipping as well. The picture is actually taken right after I finished him so I guess I didn't wait long enough for the paint on the spines to dry before handling him.

vvv Not mine, if that wasn't obvious.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.



So, is the tales thread no more? Also, is this thread just for painted works?

A Tasty Lozenge
Aug 18, 2009


My SH Terminators done so far.
Preempting drill your barrels! I decided to buy Chaos in the Old World instead of hobby bits and pieces.

A Powerful Cream
Jun 25, 2009

get ready to read some badposts b*tch!! - fdr to hitler, 1972


Holy gently caress guy above me, those are incredible.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.


Image dump because I think I'm alright enough to post in here.


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Ashcans
Jan 2, 2006

Let's do the space-time warp again!


Is this thread for good painting, or can we also post our own bad/mediocre painting for advice and critique?

Dixon Cox posted:





This always blows my mind, I have a whole sea of paints here and my dudes still look like poo poo, while this is two colors and it's incredible. Curse you, Jen Haley!

Adding content, I own this miniature but haven't gotten the balls to paint it yet, so this is one of the Reaper gallery shots:

Big Willy Style
Feb 11, 2007

How many Astartes do you know that roll like this?


In tutorials mention that gesso is poo poo and don't listen to anyone who wants to spend hours undercoating instead of minutes.

Also, I have a Trollblood warpack lying around at home that has no chance of selling so I am thinking of painting them in the most possibly offensive way in the eye of Privateer Press fanboys. I am thinking ultramarine colourscheme with upside down omega's.







Big Willy Style fucked around with this message at 14:34 on Oct 4, 2009

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!amicable
Jan 20, 2007


PaintVagrant posted:

I assume she meant colors, because she had to use white and black in addition to those two colors, right?

There seems to be some warm and cool transtions, which implies more than just 2 total paints...

No, she used only those two paints.

Everything is either brown with a ivory highlight or irovy with a brown shade, to simplify things.
Here's some daemons:





and a teaser:

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That dude is just getting his paint finished up this week, so I'll post him soon.

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