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BULBASAUR
Apr 6, 2009






Soiled Meat

ijyt posted:

I decided to hit my Minotaurs with Druchii Violet. Pre-wash on the left. I think the left one might be more accurate to the IA10 artwork of Minotaurs, but as a colour I feel the right one works better. Thoughts?



I really dig what you are doing with these. What accent colors are you going to use?

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TheCosmicMuffet
Jun 21, 2009

by Shine


BULBASAUR posted:

I really dig what you are doing with these. What accent colors are you going to use?

https://www.google.com/search?q=min...Cw&ved=0CB0QsAQ

white black and red I'm guessing.

WHAT DO YOU MEAN I'M POSTING OBSESSIVELY WHILE DRINKING SANGRIA MADE FROM ENERGY DRINKS AND WINE?!

Gareth Gobulcoque
Jan 10, 2008





Sulecrist posted:

I bought a TC 20T compressor for my first airbrush. I've used it three times now with some success, but I think there might be something wrong with it.

1) It smells when I run it. Kind of a hot chemical-y smell, but it's plausible it's burning rubber. On the other hand, it kind of smells the same as the box it came in.

2) I can hear air coming out where the hose hits the compressor/moisture trap. Also the tank doesn't seem to be filling up so I have to keep the compressor running and it gets kind of hot.

I know several people here have one so I thought I'd ask you all for advice. Is it possible that the first issue is just the oil it was packed in cooking off and the second issue is due to me not hooking it up right or something? Or should I just return it and get a replacement?

You've definitely got a leak. Mine also leaks. I recommend trying to return it. I've tried every trick in the book to fix my leak, and I just can't manage it. I've been using mine leak and all for a couple years. I just try to minimize how long I have it on and let it cool down all the way in between sessions. It's kind of a pain.

I don't think it should noticeably smell either.

Bavius
Jun 4, 2010

Smurfs don't lay eggs! I won't tell you this again! Papa Smurf has a fucking beard! They're mammals!

ijyt posted:

I decided to hit my Minotaurs with Druchii Violet. Pre-wash on the left. I think the left one might be more accurate to the IA10 artwork of Minotaurs, but as a colour I feel the right one works better. Thoughts?



Right on, I like the left one personally. I like that they are bright - not many brassy marines out there.

Goons, I'm looking for a hobby item - the Wargames Factory Basing Pad for what looks a space ship interior.

I was planning on buying it directly from the company but it looks like they stopped making it or sold out. I posted up on the barter bucket hoping someone might have it, but maybe someone here might know where I could pick one up still. Ebay was fruitless, so I'm looking around.



Edit: Nevermind, some fellow on IC informed me they made a round 2 so they'll have the same base only square for sale soon.

Bavius fucked around with this message at 04:01 on Jan 23, 2015

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

Hi painting thread, here's a dumb model I painted after having it sit around for a couple years. PP Extreme Dire Troll Mauler:








I'll probably never play it since it's a bitch to transport and I have two regular versions already!

Hra Mormo
Mar 6, 2008

The Internet Man


ijyt posted:

I decided to hit my Minotaurs with Druchii Violet. Pre-wash on the left. I think the left one might be more accurate to the IA10 artwork of Minotaurs, but as a colour I feel the right one works better. Thoughts?



Can you elaborate a bit with your complete process here? I'm trying to do something similiar with some Dark Eldar I'm painting up and I'm pretty happy with my initial color tests, but this looks way better. Also I suck at painting so treat me like an idiot.

adamantium|wang
Sep 14, 2003

Missing you


Sulecrist posted:

I bought a TC 20T compressor for my first airbrush. I've used it three times now with some success, but I think there might be something wrong with it.

1) It smells when I run it. Kind of a hot chemical-y smell, but it's plausible it's burning rubber. On the other hand, it kind of smells the same as the box it came in.

2) I can hear air coming out where the hose hits the compressor/moisture trap. Also the tank doesn't seem to be filling up so I have to keep the compressor running and it gets kind of hot.

I know several people here have one so I thought I'd ask you all for advice. Is it possible that the first issue is just the oil it was packed in cooking off and the second issue is due to me not hooking it up right or something? Or should I just return it and get a replacement?

The smell might be whatever it's been packed in cooking off, but it shouldn't be getting hot enough to do that. Seems like what's happening is there's a leak at the join to the compressor and because the tank isn't getting filled properly the pump is constantly running and thus heating/overheating. If you don't want to gently caress around with sealer (and you probably shouldn't), grab yourself some PTFE tape (aka teflon or plumber's tape) and wrap some around the threaded end of the join. When you then screw it back in the tape will occupy the space between the threads and hopefully stop the leak for you. The tape is cheap as chips and it should take you all of 10 minutes to do. You'll know its worked when the hiss is gone and the pump only runs for a couple of minutes to fill the tank before stopping.

ijyt
Apr 10, 2012



Slimnoid posted:

I'm feeling the one on the right, personally. It's got a nice deep rich color to it, whereas the one on the left is more...dusty and dry.

I think if you hit the right one with a bit of silver drybrushing along the edges to simulate some wear and tear from going mac 5 in the Danger Zone, it'd really make it pop. I do see one problem in that the verdigris is all but removed with the violet wash, so maybe go back over those.

Yup, I messed up with the verdigris by going over it too much in one of the steps, but I was going to hit it with some oxide later anyway. I'll definitely be weathering it so no worries there.

BULBASAUR posted:

I really dig what you are doing with these. What accent colors are you going to use?

Like TCM said. The roundels are going to be painted up like marble, while the engine panels are going to be black. One of them might have a chevron on the tail or something. It's a bit difficult as it makes the whole army quite dark, it's why I was asking about snow flock earlier so that there's some contrast. The only red is probably going to be the bulls on the decals/roundels.

Hra Mormo posted:

Can you elaborate a bit with your complete process here? I'm trying to do something similiar with some Dark Eldar I'm painting up and I'm pretty happy with my initial color tests, but this looks way better. Also I suck at painting so treat me like an idiot.

No problem! Bear in mind that I drybrushed all my metals, which might give a bit of a rough texture depending on how much or little paint you use during drybrushing. You can do this with thinned metallics, but the end effect might be a bit different. Here's the paint list and steps:



A few extra notes:

Step 3. and onwards, depending on how much you cover up the sotek green from earlier depends on how much will be visible at the end. I messed up with mine a bit and as you can see there's almost none of the original verdigris effect coming through.

Step 6. If you want an even darker colour, do a few more layers of agrax earthshade, especially if you're skipping the final step. The stormtalons I posted were done with two.

Step 7. is more of a "I don't like how the wash dried here" kind of thing.

Step 9. you might even want to water down the violet was with an 8:1 ratio or higher, as it really is quite strong. I'd recommend testing it on a piece of sprue first to have an idea of how much it'll darken the colour. You can also consider doing it in layers, then hitting crevices with a slightly less diluted wash for some shading.

Hope it helps, feel free to ask any questions. And to everyone else, thanks!

krushgroove
Oct 22, 2007

Disapproving look


adamantium|wang posted:

The smell might be whatever it's been packed in cooking off, but it shouldn't be getting hot enough to do that. Seems like what's happening is there's a leak at the join to the compressor and because the tank isn't getting filled properly the pump is constantly running and thus heating/overheating. If you don't want to gently caress around with sealer (and you probably shouldn't), grab yourself some PTFE tape (aka teflon or plumber's tape) and wrap some around the threaded end of the join. When you then screw it back in the tape will occupy the space between the threads and hopefully stop the leak for you. The tape is cheap as chips and it should take you all of 10 minutes to do. You'll know its worked when the hiss is gone and the pump only runs for a couple of minutes to fill the tank before stopping.

Definitely try the PTFE tape, I put this on all my screw-type connections even if there aren't leaks. I can't hear a leak on my current setup but my tank still wants to top itself up every 20-30 minutes or so if the switch is on and I'm not spraying anything.

If you do try to send the TC20T back, see if you can save up for a Sparmax compressor - they make the iwata compressors and I've been VERY happy with my Sparmax TC 620X. That's not stopping me from getting a Bambi compressor though (picking it up today!). Should be properly silent rather than quiet, but we'll see.

NTRabbit
Aug 15, 2012

i wear this armour to protect myself from the histrionics of hysterical women

bitches






Bavius posted:



Edit: Nevermind, some fellow on IC informed me they made a round 2 so they'll have the same base only square for sale soon.

Fulfillment is happening right now, after all the backers have theirs the pads should be for sale on the Mantic webstore, as they're manufacturing them.

Slandible
Apr 30, 2008



I've only gotten in two quick nights in with the MK, but drat is it going to be one of the funnest things to paint. Here is probably what I'll be doing for the whole color scheme.

Bavius
Jun 4, 2010

Smurfs don't lay eggs! I won't tell you this again! Papa Smurf has a fucking beard! They're mammals!

NTRabbit posted:

Fulfillment is happening right now, after all the backers have theirs the pads should be for sale on the Mantic webstore, as they're manufacturing them.

Sweet, really looking forward to picking some more up.

Forums Terrorist
Dec 8, 2011



What's the best way to get superglue off of resin models?

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003


Forums Terrorist posted:

What's the best way to get superglue off of resin models?

Super Clean works great, though it will remove paint as well.

Forums Terrorist
Dec 8, 2011



I'm in Holland, I can't get Super Clean afaik.

TheCosmicMuffet
Jun 21, 2009

by Shine


Forums Terrorist posted:

I'm in Holland, I can't get Super Clean afaik.

http://www.google.com/patents/US4422883

Try 3 parts acetonitrile to 2 parts ethanol.

http://www.sigmaaldrich.com/catalog...ng=en&region=US

I'm sure you have a local chem company where you can get it.

Forums Terrorist
Dec 8, 2011



What's the time limit for resin in ethanol? I remember people saying that it makes resin rubbery if left in too long.

Sulecrist
Apr 5, 2007

Better tear off this bar association logo.


AdamantiumWang and KrushGroove, thank you for your advice regarding the painter's tape. It solved the problem perfectly and cost like sixty cents.

krushgroove
Oct 22, 2007

Disapproving look


Sulecrist posted:

AdamantiumWang and KrushGroove, thank you for your advice regarding the painter's tape. It solved the problem perfectly and cost like sixty cents.

No worries! And I hope you got plumber's tape, not painter's tape

Big Willy Style
Feb 11, 2007

How many Astartes do you know that roll like this?


I've actually got a busted o ring on the nozzle on one of my airbrishes that I have been lazy to replace because the place I bought it from is seeming finished trading. Would plumbers tape work in a pinch?

krushgroove
Oct 22, 2007

Disapproving look


Big Willy Style posted:

I've actually got a busted o ring on the nozzle on one of my airbrishes that I have been lazy to replace because the place I bought it from is seeming finished trading. Would plumbers tape work in a pinch?

errr...no, probably not

Is it a name-brand brush? If it is, you can get it from another store.

adamantium|wang
Sep 14, 2003

Missing you


Sulecrist posted:

AdamantiumWang and KrushGroove, thank you for your advice regarding the painter's tape. It solved the problem perfectly and cost like sixty cents.

Sulecrist
Apr 5, 2007

Better tear off this bar association logo.


krushgroove posted:

No worries! And I hope you got plumber's tape, not painter's tape

Yeah but I also bought painter's tape so it was a freudian slip.

Post 9-11 User
Apr 14, 2010


Forums Terrorist posted:

What's the best way to get superglue off of resin models?

There are debonder/solvent specifically for superglue but I have never tested to see if it won't also dissolve the resin.

That, or just use a razorblade and pure Juche like I've done in the past.

Boon
Jun 21, 2005

by R. Guyovich


X-Post, what do ya think?








Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"

Fun Shoe

Boon posted:

X-Post, what do ya think?









Very smartly done! My only comment would be the white is possibly too well done to the point where it looks a little flat. Maybe a very subtle post-shade in the shadowed areas and a pin wash around the gems would help?

Ignite Memories
Feb 27, 2005



No way man, all his stuff looks like that and it looks awesome.

Don't gently caress with the scheme, boon. It is way too late to gently caress with the scheme.

Hubis
May 18, 2003

Boy, I wish we had one of those doomsday machines...

Reaper Bones/Varnish Chemistry-Chat:

So, here's a weird thing. I painted up some Reaper miniatures -- a mix of metal orcs, and some Bones versions of the same. At the time I was experimenting with Minwax "dip" for protection+shading, so when I was done and they dried I gave them all a dip in some Tudor Satin Polyacrylic. They looked decent, if a bit shiny.

I finally got around to matte-spraying them about a month ago. I got a can of Liquitex Matte Varnish Spray and hit all the figures with it. About 2 weeks later, though, I'm noticing that all the bones figures still have a "tacky" texture to them, while the metal figures (covered with the same Minwax polyacrylic stain+varnish) are fine.

Does anyone have any clue what the deal is, or how to fix it? I've left them out in the air for more than enough time that I figure they're as 'dry' as they're going to get.

thespaceinvader
Mar 30, 2011

The slightest touch from a Gol-Shogeg will result in Instant Death!


Some spraypaint propellants seem to have an adverse effect on Bonesium. I have some minis which I primed and/or varnished a year ago which are still tacky to the point that they stick to one another and pull paint off when separated. It's irksome. I don;t know of any way to fix it, but you can avoid it by using an airbrush or brush brush to apply your primer/varnish. Which is kind of annoying.

Bistromatic
Oct 3, 2004

And turn the inner eye
To see its path...


Finished my UCM infantry today, first time i've painted humans on a scale other than 28mm

At the moment i only have GW varnish so i'm contemplating whether i should use that or wait for the Humbrol Clear i ordered to arrive. It's allegedly is a good domestic alternative to future or klear since i'm in germany and those are not available easily here.

Hubis
May 18, 2003

Boy, I wish we had one of those doomsday machines...

thespaceinvader posted:

Some spraypaint propellants seem to have an adverse effect on Bonesium. I have some minis which I primed and/or varnished a year ago which are still tacky to the point that they stick to one another and pull paint off when separated. It's irksome. I don;t know of any way to fix it, but you can avoid it by using an airbrush or brush brush to apply your primer/varnish. Which is kind of annoying.

Yeah, I guess I was just a little surprised given that I had what I had thought was a solid coat of gloss varnish to protect it. Apparently not as thick/covering as I thought.
Do you think I could air-brush some matte varnish over it to "mask" the tackiness? They didn't really turn out that matte either, now that I think about it.

Bistromatic posted:

Finished my UCM infantry today, first time i've painted humans on a scale other than 28mm

At the moment i only have GW varnish so i'm contemplating whether i should use that or wait for the Humbrol Clear i ordered to arrive. It's allegedly is a good domestic alternative to future or klear since i'm in germany and those are not available easily here.

Those look awesome. I love really well-done 6mm (?) stuff, especially infantry squads.

Reynold
Feb 14, 2012

Suffer not the unclean to live.

Ignite Memories posted:

No way man, all his stuff looks like that and it looks awesome.

Don't gently caress with the scheme, boon. It is way too late to gently caress with the scheme.

Furthermore, your Eldar look dope as gently caress Boon, every last one. I play against an Eldar army every now and again that doesn't have a single model painted that didn't come that way from ebay.

You are a light in the darkness.

overthefalls
Apr 17, 2005

"They called you exotic, which is just people talk for awesome!"

Crosspointing a bunch of tyranids that I've completed recently!

Finished 10 more gaunts last night:


Al 30 gaunts with Mamabuggy:


20 more to go (devourers this time, not fleshborers):


Some biovores I did alongside the first 10:


I need to do something big and nice as I've been rather loose about getting these done.

thespaceinvader
Mar 30, 2011

The slightest touch from a Gol-Shogeg will result in Instant Death!


Hubis posted:

Yeah, I guess I was just a little surprised given that I had what I had thought was a solid coat of gloss varnish to protect it. Apparently not as thick/covering as I thought.
Do you think I could air-brush some matte varnish over it to "mask" the tackiness? They didn't really turn out that matte either, now that I think about it.

Couldn't hurt to try.

I imagine the gloss varnish isn't propellant-proof, which isn't really surprising.

Slimnoid
Sep 6, 2012

Does that mean I don't get the job?


Hubis posted:

Yeah, I guess I was just a little surprised given that I had what I had thought was a solid coat of gloss varnish to protect it. Apparently not as thick/covering as I thought.
Do you think I could air-brush some matte varnish over it to "mask" the tackiness? They didn't really turn out that matte either, now that I think about it.

I had somewhat similar problems with a Bones Hydra I painted last year, where I used the wrong primer and it stayed tacky through several layers of paint. My solution was airbrushing gloss, then matte, using matte inbetween coats. That helped seal it all in and hasn't been tacky since.

So, airbrushing matte should do the trick. Use a few thin layers, preferably over gloss. At this point I don't trust propellant on Bones models at all, even Krylon primer has given me mixed results.

The Sex Cannon
Nov 22, 2004

Eh. I'm pretty content with my current logo.

Boon posted:

X-Post, what do ya think?









Come to NOVA this year so I can compliment your army in person.

ijyt
Apr 10, 2012



Any recommendations with working with greenstuff? Was about to dive in to converting a daemon prince into a nurgle one but I suppose I should ask here first (and practice on some old chaos marines first).

TheCosmicMuffet
Jun 21, 2009

by Shine


ijyt posted:

Any recommendations with working with greenstuff? Was about to dive in to converting a daemon prince into a nurgle one but I suppose I should ask here first (and practice on some old chaos marines first).

Get some petroleum jelly to dab with your fingers or tools and prevent the stuff from sticking to them, when you need to. Mix up a batch and get it into a general shape first, then let it sit out for a day or so and come back to it to smush it around more; it'll be stiffer and easier to work in details. Dentist tools are good, but you can use oddball utensils, like Hors d'oeuvre forks or bbq skewers to help you work poo poo out. Or sewing needles. I even use nail clippers sometimes to get a smooth edge or something.

Then let it sit out some more, and you can carve into it with an exacto knife to get really fine detail or just do something to a part that was too floppy earlier on.

Do not eat the whole tube at once.

ijyt
Apr 10, 2012



TheCosmicMuffet posted:

Do not eat the whole tube at once.

gently caress.

Interesting advice about leaving it out, would have thought it would have cured by then (I have Milliput if it makes a difference).

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Slimnoid
Sep 6, 2012

Does that mean I don't get the job?


TheCosmicMuffet posted:

let it sit out for a day or so

Greenstuff starts to cure after about 4 hours, and fully hardens after about 8-12, depending on the size and amount. Letting it sit out for a day will just get you a hard lump.

Letting it sit out for 15-30 minutes is the preferred time period for that.

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