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hooman
Oct 11, 2007

This guy seems legit.


Fun Shoe

Here's the banes I've been working on.

Did one as a test model then two more. Only 9 to go until I have a full unit with UA



I'm pretty happy with how they turned out. I've since based and hit them with a layer of matte finish.

From what this thread has said though matte finishes don't provide a hard protective coat like a gloss one will. So should I be gloss coating -> matte coating?

EDIT: timg, holy broken tables.

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Slimnoid
Sep 6, 2012

Does that mean I don't get the job?


Chance II posted:

What scale should I look for (1/8, 3/16 ,etc) for styrene I-beams from 28mm miniatures terrain?

Here's a cheap trick that train companies don't want you to know!

Y'know those signs you see for things like "Single? Try <namedcity.org>" or "We Buy Houses Cheap!" or, during autumn, various political "vote for me" signs?

Most of them are made of corrugated plastic. It's stuff you can find at sign-making shops and most DIY stores like Home Depot, but most likely you can find it for free on the ground, blown over from the wind or trapped in piles of snow. You take that stuff, and you slice it inbetween fluted sections. RubbishinRubbishout did a quick video on it years ago, and since then I've kept my eye open for any signs that have wandered off into bushes or are otherwise abandoned and snatch'em up.

lilljonas
May 6, 2007

We got crabs? We got crabs!

Slimnoid posted:

Here's a cheap trick that train companies don't want you to know!

Y'know those signs you see for things like "Single? Try <namedcity.org>" or "We Buy Houses Cheap!" or, during autumn, various political "vote for me" signs?

Most of them are made of corrugated plastic. It's stuff you can find at sign-making shops and most DIY stores like Home Depot, but most likely you can find it for free on the ground, blown over from the wind or trapped in piles of snow. You take that stuff, and you slice it inbetween fluted sections. RubbishinRubbishout did a quick video on it years ago, and since then I've kept my eye open for any signs that have wandered off into bushes or are otherwise abandoned and snatch'em up.

Interesting. I honestly have never ever seen this kind of corrugated plastic where I live. I will have to keep an eye out, it looks super useful for WW2 stuff.

Commissar Canuck
Aug 5, 2008

They made fun of us! And it's Stanley Cup season!



I've put down the undercoat, hit it with Future and let it dry. What's the timing between putting down the crackle medium, priming over it and painting over the primer if I want to give it some chipping effects?

Fish and Chimps
Feb 16, 2012

mmmfff


Fun Shoe

How long should I wait between dullcote coats?

BULBASAUR
Apr 6, 2009






Soiled Meat

Throbbing blob posted:

How long should I wait between dullcote coats?

Are you spraying it on? Maybe 10-15 min? It takes about a day to cure entirely, but you don't need to wait that long.

Enentol
Jul 16, 2005
Middle Class Gangster

Throbbing blob posted:

How long should I wait between dullcote coats?

I spray one side, turn 180, spray the other side, wait 15-20 min, and then repeat.

Metal miniatures get an additional coat after that one, as I tend not to gloss varnish.

The more coats you put on (especially in quick succession), the longer it will take to dry as a whole. I've had models dry completely in 15 minutes, and others take the better part of a day or two. Once again, between coats, 10-15 min (like Bulbasaur said) should be sufficient.

Fish and Chimps
Feb 16, 2012

mmmfff


Fun Shoe

BULBASAUR posted:

Are you spraying it on? Maybe 10-15 min? It takes about a day to cure entirely, but you don't need to wait that long.

Yes I am. I thought it was only the glosscote that took a day or more to cure completely, while the dullcote was much quicker.

Edit: Ok, thanks. I'll give them another go then.

Fish and Chimps fucked around with this message at 23:02 on Feb 5, 2015

BULBASAUR
Apr 6, 2009






Soiled Meat

Anything that's lacquer/oil based takes a day or so to properly cure. In practice it means that it's dry enough to work with within 30min to an hour, but the full effect doesn't come through until about a day after. Also it's gonna stink for just as long.

Dick Milhous Rock!
Aug 9, 1974






This is the first mini that I've tried to paint. It's essentially my learn-to model for a number of things that a few patient locals are trying to pace me through.

Grargh, taking pictures blows up all these loving mistakes. I have a lot more fun assembling things then painting, I think.




I'm a little less then half done, I think. I'm doing highlights on some of the tyranid parts tomorrow then moving on to the ork and metal bits. I'm doing another coat of yellow tomorrow over what's up there since it needed to dry and the store was closing.

dishwasherlove
Nov 26, 2007

The ultimate fusion of man and machine.



drat fine conversion. Painting that white over black must be killer. It looks really good so far.

BlackIronHeart
Aug 1, 2004

The Oath Breaker's about to hit warphead nine Kaptain!


I've been working on my Stompa for a while now. The paint's coming along nicely but not enough that I wanna take WIP shots of it yet. However, the Battlewagon cab that's used as its head now does this, thanks to a goon buddy:

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"

Fun Shoe

Throbbing blob posted:

How long should I wait between dullcote coats?

Like others have said - but also don't put more than 2 coats on before letting it cure fully overnight and seeing the final effect.

Heavy use of dullcote can give your mini a slight whitish tint, so go easy on it or you can lose your hard work shading.

Gloss doesn't have this effect, which is another reason to use a thick coat of gloss and deploy the dullcote sparingly.

Baron Snow
Feb 7, 2007





http://youtu.be/GbfVmzF7N4g

Fuegan
Aug 23, 2008



I'm trying to get back into doing some painting and want to make my Necrons look a little more interesting by adding some OSL here and there. I'm painting the guns and eyes orange and using GW paints (Jokaero, Troll Slayer, Fire Dragon Bright) but OSL is one effect I've really never managed to get right. It always tends to look too "painted on" and not natural enough, for lack of a better description. Does anyone have any good advice/sources of information for getting a good looking OSL on that kind of scale? I've heard of people using drybrushing, glazes and standard paints and really don't know where to start with it.

Slimnoid
Sep 6, 2012

Does that mean I don't get the job?


Fuegan posted:

I'm trying to get back into doing some painting and want to make my Necrons look a little more interesting by adding some OSL here and there. I'm painting the guns and eyes orange and using GW paints (Jokaero, Troll Slayer, Fire Dragon Bright) but OSL is one effect I've really never managed to get right. It always tends to look too "painted on" and not natural enough, for lack of a better description. Does anyone have any good advice/sources of information for getting a good looking OSL on that kind of scale? I've heard of people using drybrushing, glazes and standard paints and really don't know where to start with it.

http://handcannononline.com/blog/20...ource-lighting/

http://chestofcolors.com/osl-tips-tutorial/

There's several ways to do OSL, and it all depends on what you have available. If you have an airbrush, it's almost pitifully easy--just point in the direction light is coming from and spray away. Well, it's not THAT easy, but compared to hand-painting things it certainly feels that way.

If you're doing it by hand, glazes are the way to go. Careful application of multiple layers of glazes of differing color can get a realistic look to your OSL, keeping in mind where the color would be coming from and that the brightness degrades over time (a torchlight would be white-yellow in the center, to yellow, to orange, and finally an orange-red near the edges). If you don't have glazes or glazing medium, watering down the paint until it's to the consistency of skim milk will work in a pinch, and if you're just doing something small with a couple colors to it then that works perfectly fine.

One trick I've seen people do, is to set a light near a miniature where they plan to have OSL, and take photos of it. Typically it's over a black base coated model for better reflection, and taken from multiple angles to give a reference to follow. I've never done it myself, but it's certainly worth a shot if you're having trouble figuring out how to lay the light down.

Fish and Chimps
Feb 16, 2012

mmmfff


Fun Shoe

Z the IVth posted:

Like others have said - but also don't put more than 2 coats on before letting it cure fully overnight and seeing the final effect.

Heavy use of dullcote can give your mini a slight whitish tint, so go easy on it or you can lose your hard work shading.

Gloss doesn't have this effect, which is another reason to use a thick coat of gloss and deploy the dullcote sparingly.

I ended up actually leaving it over night instead, as it was getting pretty late. They definitely need another coat though, the glosscote is shining through pretty heavily.

Fuegan
Aug 23, 2008



Slimnoid posted:

Really useful info.

Thanks, there's some really handy stuff there! Looks like I can pick up a couple of glazes and give it a try this evening.

Slimnoid
Sep 6, 2012

Does that mean I don't get the job?


Fuegan posted:

Thanks, there's some really handy stuff there! Looks like I can pick up a couple of glazes and give it a try this evening.

You can pick up a bottle of glaze medium at most art stores for about $10 or less, and it will let you make glazes out of pretty much every paint in your collection and will last a long time. The GW ones aren't bad by any means, but price per ounce you're going to be better off making them yourself. I'd only do that once you get the hang of how glazes work though, which isn't very different from washes to be honest. Food for thought.

Speckled Jim
Dec 13, 2008


Slimnoid posted:

You can pick up a bottle of glaze medium at most art stores for about $10 or less, and it will let you make glazes out of pretty much every paint in your collection and will last a long time. The GW ones aren't bad by any means, but price per ounce you're going to be better off making them yourself. I'd only do that once you get the hang of how glazes work though, which isn't very different from washes to be honest. Food for thought.

Ive had a bottle of glaze medium sitting around for a while and Ive played around without much success. Am I correct in assuming you just thin your paint down a whole lot? I tryed that with some GW Moot Green, to use for a glow effect on a grav gun. It didnt come out as well as the examples I had seen using premade glazes. Seemed like the glaze medium made it a bit milky looking.

krushgroove
Oct 22, 2007

Disapproving look


Hey guys, I've been working on an updated OP for the thread. I've been working on it off and on for the past couple of months and it's at the stage where I can start asking for feedback and comments. There was someone who messaged me about helping out (Bulbasaur? not sure! sorry! get in touch again...) but you're all welcome to comment on the Google Doc here: https://docs.google.com/document/d/...dit?usp=sharing

I don't want to make it a huge, all-encompassing 'how to paint your miniatures' type thing, just get the basics and some intermediate stuff in the OP, advanced stuff can be requested and filler questions asked in the main thread.

Here are the things I will be filled out soon:
basic equipment
Bulbasaur's oil wash tutorial stuff
...anything else?

If anyone wants to suggest a subject to write about, a YouTube video to share, if you have a goon painting blog or if you do commission work, feel free to leave a comment in the appropriate area.

Slimnoid
Sep 6, 2012

Does that mean I don't get the job?


Speckled Jim posted:

Ive had a bottle of glaze medium sitting around for a while and Ive played around without much success. Am I correct in assuming you just thin your paint down a whole lot? I tryed that with some GW Moot Green, to use for a glow effect on a grav gun. It didnt come out as well as the examples I had seen using premade glazes. Seemed like the glaze medium made it a bit milky looking.

I've only been experimenting with home-made glazes very recently, but the ratio I've seen suggested for an 'average' glaze is 1:1:1 of paint, glaze, and water. People suggest distilled water, but I use tap water without a problem; it might be an issue if where you live has hard water or whatever. Typically I just eyeball the ratios, erring on the side of just a bit more water than the other two.

I got a sneaking suspicion that it might be better to just make my own bottles of the stuff, rather than doing it on the spot with a pallet. Maybe someone else has more experience with it than I.

Edit:

krushgroove posted:

Hey guys, I've been working on an updated OP for the thread. I've been working on it off and on for the past couple of months and it's at the stage where I can start asking for feedback and comments. There was someone who messaged me about helping out (Bulbasaur? not sure! sorry! get in touch again...) but you're all welcome to comment on the Google Doc here: https://docs.google.com/document/d/...dit?usp=sharing

I don't want to make it a huge, all-encompassing 'how to paint your miniatures' type thing, just get the basics and some intermediate stuff in the OP, advanced stuff can be requested and filler questions asked in the main thread.

Here are the things I will be filled out soon:
basic equipment
Bulbasaur's oil wash tutorial stuff
...anything else?

If anyone wants to suggest a subject to write about, a YouTube video to share, if you have a goon painting blog or if you do commission work, feel free to leave a comment in the appropriate area.

This is all pretty comprehensive from what I can tell. Added some suggestions here and there.

Slimnoid fucked around with this message at 21:03 on Feb 6, 2015

Gareth Gobulcoque
Jan 10, 2008





I don't really like glaze medium that much. I just run into a lot of problem with it. For glazes I just heavily dilute paint with water. This does not work with certain paints like minitaire. The pigment just isn't ground fine enough and it leaves a splotchy, speckled mess behind. It definitely does work with reaper paints.

Springfield Fatts
May 24, 2010


Pillbug

Just wrapped up my US half of the Bolt Action starter set.



I also followed this handy guide and picked up a hella cheap Sherman. Doesn't look bad after a new coat of paint!



Shot next to infantry for scale in case anyone else is interested.

A Shitty Reporter
Oct 29, 2012


Dinosaur Gum

You need to tweak the white balance in your pics.

evenworse username
Aug 4, 2006

TRICHER
POUR
GAGNER


So I'm about to paint a whole bunch of stuff that will use substantial amounts of red, and I seem to remember someone here suggesting a colour for a wash over red (other than red!) that got exciting results. Purple? Green? I cannot recall.

Any advice gratefully received.

Slimnoid
Sep 6, 2012

Does that mean I don't get the job?


evenworse username posted:

So I'm about to paint a whole bunch of stuff that will use substantial amounts of red, and I seem to remember someone here suggesting a colour for a wash over red (other than red!) that got exciting results. Purple? Green? I cannot recall.

Any advice gratefully received.

Green is usually recommended, yeah. Nice contrasting color. Personally I like to add a purple wash to the recesses, as I feel it helps make the red appear much more rich and add depth.

Skarsnik
Oct 21, 2008

I...AM...RUUUDE!






krushgroove posted:

Hey guys, I've been working on an updated OP for the thread. I've been working on it off and on for the past couple of months and it's at the stage where I can start asking for feedback and comments. There was someone who messaged me about helping out (Bulbasaur? not sure! sorry! get in touch again...) but you're all welcome to comment on the Google Doc here: https://docs.google.com/document/d/...dit?usp=sharing

I don't want to make it a huge, all-encompassing 'how to paint your miniatures' type thing, just get the basics and some intermediate stuff in the OP, advanced stuff can be requested and filler questions asked in the main thread.

Here are the things I will be filled out soon:
basic equipment
Bulbasaur's oil wash tutorial stuff
...anything else?

If anyone wants to suggest a subject to write about, a YouTube video to share, if you have a goon painting blog or if you do commission work, feel free to leave a comment in the appropriate area.

That's a drat good OP

Commissar Canuck
Aug 5, 2008

They made fun of us! And it's Stanley Cup season!



I'm still learning how to use an airbrush and had some red paint bleed out onto the model under the masking I had put down. Is there an easy way to clean up those spots? Under the red I want to remove is just a gloss coat if that helps.

Dremcon
Sep 25, 2007
No, not a convention.

Should I be doing a gloss coat before applying washes? I watched a few videos recently and noticed that the painters would do: base coat, highlight, gloss coat, wash.

Any reason for the gloss before wash?

signalnoise
Mar 7, 2008


Can someone recommend me some videos, paid or not, for good application of fundamentals like how to use glazes and washes and inks, proper thinned paint consistency, color picking, and other such beginner topics? I need to.. heh. BRUSH UP on my painting basics. I want videos specifically so I can see what it is these people are talking about.

Slimnoid
Sep 6, 2012

Does that mean I don't get the job?


Commissar Canuck posted:

I'm still learning how to use an airbrush and had some red paint bleed out onto the model under the masking I had put down. Is there an easy way to clean up those spots? Under the red I want to remove is just a gloss coat if that helps.

If it's gloss underneath you should be able to remove the paint using alcohol or mineral spirits. Just be careful when doing so, as I doubt you want to get rid of the paint you DO want on there.

Dremcon posted:

Any reason for the gloss before wash?

It's easier to clean up if you mess up somewhere, and the smooth surface means there's less surface tension, meaning the wash will slip into the recesses. Very useful for black lining if you don't have/don't want to use oil washes.

That said, it's not essential for every model. Or even most models.


signalnoise posted:

Can someone recommend me some videos, paid or not, for good application of fundamentals like how to use glazes and washes and inks, proper thinned paint consistency, color picking, and other such beginner topics? I need to.. heh. BRUSH UP on my painting basics. I want videos specifically so I can see what it is these people are talking about.

I'd say Buypainted but a lot of his stuff is now behind a paywall. A good amount of his stuff is still on youtube I think.

PyroDwarf
Aug 24, 2010


signalnoise posted:

Can someone recommend me some videos, paid or not, for good application of fundamentals like how to use glazes and washes and inks, proper thinned paint consistency, color picking, and other such beginner topics? I need to.. heh. BRUSH UP on my painting basics. I want videos specifically so I can see what it is these people are talking about.

3 Colors Up on youtube has a fairly extensive library. Also the painter is like a French Bob Ross.

krushgroove
Oct 22, 2007

Disapproving look


Skarsnik posted:

That's a drat good OP

Thanks! Another week or so and it should be ready to go live.

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"

Fun Shoe

krushgroove posted:

Thanks! Another week or so and it should be ready to go live.

Can I suggest adding Magic Sculpt to the putties and fillers section? Its superior to greenstuff for filling as you can sand it smooth afterwards. It also doesn't shrink.

krushgroove
Oct 22, 2007

Disapproving look


Definitely! I've only recently gotten my first sample of it, so I haven't tried it myself yet. It seems a bit like Miliput in that it's sandable.

Pierzak
Oct 30, 2010


Z the IVth posted:

Can I suggest adding Magic Sculpt to the putties and fillers section? Its superior to greenstuff for filling as you can sand it smooth afterwards. It also doesn't shrink.
Also, Procreate.

Magic Sculpt works best when mixed with greenstuff, all the detail of MS and some flexibility.

krushgroove
Oct 22, 2007

Disapproving look


Great, added those, and actually expanded the gap-filling section slightly with the products that are more suitable for actual sculpting.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

I think you should probably break that into multiple smaller posts. Making that all in one is just super overwhelming. And somewhere in there, make a link to this thread for the sake of old timer nostalgia in posters like me.

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krushgroove
Oct 22, 2007

Disapproving look


The page breaks are individual posts, so that's taken care of. I'll put a link to this thread at the top of the first post

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