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Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

You need to click the icon.





OK, a drone-propelled pig-bike is is probably not the best of ideas...



Good God, what hath I wrought?!

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Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

Yeah that's pretty bad, sorry to say. We all have neat ideas that don't quite execute, from time to time.

(Insert pic of my lovely loota conversions I did the other day, and promptly dismantled the next day.)

Catfishenfuego
Oct 21, 2008

Moist With Indignation


Get some little bits of fine wire, some plastic rods and a little green stuff and just make some orky-riffic bionic legs, it's pretty hard to screw up since they're meant to look like crap.

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

You need to click the icon.





Catfishenfuego posted:

Get some little bits of fine wire, some plastic rods and a little green stuff and just make some orky-riffic bionic legs, it's pretty hard to screw up since they're meant to look like crap.

Yeah I think that's the route I might go,but I'll probably try one more idea and give the pig a couple wheels on the back of him, like those "wheelchairs" for dogs and stuff with paralyzed hind legs.

enri
Dec 15, 2003

Hope you're having an amazing day



Cthulu Carl posted:

Yeah I think that's the route I might go,but I'll probably try one more idea and give the pig a couple wheels on the back of him, like those "wheelchairs" for dogs and stuff with paralyzed hind legs.

There was an RT era cyboar that had something like this, the back end was just armoured and it had a wheel in place of its back legs. Googling like crazy to find an image but not having much luck at the mo.

Zarkov Cortez
Aug 18, 2007

Alas, our kitten class attack ships were no match for their mighty chairs


Cthulu Carl posted:

Yeah I think that's the route I might go,but I'll probably try one more idea and give the pig a couple wheels on the back of him, like those "wheelchairs" for dogs and stuff with paralyzed hind legs.

Do this, make it like a half track with legs on the front and track on the back...

I might have to do this myself, I have an unopened nobz box...

landis
Jun 16, 2003

Until the end.


Cthulu Carl posted:

Yeah I think that's the route I might go,but I'll probably try one more idea and give the pig a couple wheels on the back of him, like those "wheelchairs" for dogs and stuff with paralyzed hind legs.
Reminds me of this guy:

The pinky demon from Doom, in this case the movie. Not really orky tho...

bhsman
Feb 9, 2008

by exmarx


Ashcans
Jan 2, 2006

Let's do the space-time warp again!


enri posted:

There was an RT era cyboar that had something like this, the back end was just armoured and it had a wheel in place of its back legs. Googling like crazy to find an image but not having much luck at the mo.
I remember that guy. I'll take a look in the 2nd edition books for him when I get home.

ineptmule
Dec 3, 2005

Not suited, just booted.


College Slice

Any tips on shading and highlighting Hawk Turquoise and Bad Moon Yellow? They seem to be fairly unique colours with no obvious lighter or darker cousins, and I'm not sure which routes to go down trying to mix them. This is where I suck at painting. I'm alright at the applying paint bit, but knowing which colours to mix and colour scheme ideas in general I suck at.

Either way I'll have a couple of test models to post soonish

PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~


ineptmule posted:

Any tips on shading and highlighting Hawk Turquoise and Bad Moon Yellow? They seem to be fairly unique colours with no obvious lighter or darker cousins, and I'm not sure which routes to go down trying to mix them. This is where I suck at painting. I'm alright at the applying paint bit, but knowing which colours to mix and colour scheme ideas in general I suck at.

Either way I'll have a couple of test models to post soonish

Try bleached bone or equivalent to highlight the turq. Bad moon i usually just use a small amount of white, but with yellow its more about shading than highlighting, so keep that highlight really small

rzal
Nov 8, 2007



Fun Shoe

I went a little crazy and stripped some of my old minis after I messed up one of my new ones and thought, "hey I can fit 10 dudes in this bucket of simple green."
One of them had a mold line on his base I guess, because he kept falling over. So, I grabbed my new file set and before I knew it I had chopped off his feet and built him a base out of fimo and greenstuffed him to a more 30mm scale. I think I've gone insane.
before/after


I'll need to do some more work on the greenstuff before I prime him.
My sculpting skills are weak.

Also I've started on this orc here. He's pretty cool.

!amicable
Jan 20, 2007


I am digging what you are doing with that orc dude.

Keep at it.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.



The original monk dude looks like he's standing in a ditch, vast improvement.

Also, orc skin, lovin' that there.

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

You need to click the icon.





Since my Ork Warboss idea needs work, I decided to do a quick one for my IG. And who better to make than a counts-as Marbo?



He probably kills more enemies just staring them down like this than with his weapons.

Len
Jan 21, 2008

Pouches, bandages, shoulderpad, cyber-eye...

Bitchin'!



Cthulu Carl posted:

Since my Ork Warboss idea needs work, I decided to do a quick one for my IG. And who better to make than a counts-as Marbo?



He probably kills more enemies just staring them down like this than with his weapons.

Is he supposed to be wearing sunglasses or is that part of his hat?

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

You need to click the icon.





Len posted:

Is he supposed to be wearing sunglasses or is that part of his hat?

It's a flattop haircut partially covered by a headband. And, yes, those are shades.

My army is going to be Catachans for infantry, Cadians for any vehicles and Stormtroopers, and Space Marines on the Mentors chapter interspersed with different counts-as roles (Right now, I'm painting up a Co. Command of them, and will be using Scouts as Veterans, I think) - so I used a Catachan head to even slightly make things a little more cohesive.

Unexpected EOF
Dec 8, 2008

I'm a Bro-ny!

Cthulu Carl posted:

Since my Ork Warboss idea needs work, I decided to do a quick one for my IG. And who better to make than a counts-as Marbo?



He probably kills more enemies just staring them down like this than with his weapons.

Always bet on Duke.

Pagan
Jun 3, 2003



I've started on the armor of my Priest's horse, and I'd like some feedback and critique. I'm happy, so far, with the armor on the front legs, but not so much with the panels on the side.

I am pretty happy with the horses skin tone and the white tail and fetlocks, but I'm open to criticism on anything.



EL Skirvo
Jun 17, 2006


I think Doctor Thunder is probably the best modeler alive today, I just really love all his work.


Posted these in the last gbs thread but on page 199, so it got kinda lost in the new thread title discussion. Still need to setup a lightbox for good quality pics but I wanted to get a rough idea how these might be highlighted.

First off, my Master of the Forge on bike with Conversion Beamer. Stuck a teleport homer sideways, added a servo skull and though it's hard to make out, a ML servo arm on the right shoulder vent. I wanted something unique but didn't want to go overboard and make him too 'busy'.


Click here for the full 1500x1125 image.



Click here for the full 1500x1125 image.



Click here for the full 1500x1125 image.


Hanging with his dread pals


Click here for the full 1500x1125 image.


First dread I ever painted


Click here for the full 1500x1125 image.


And the AOBR dread with mechwarrior arms


Click here for the full 1500x1125 image.


Also, a test terminator sarge I did, which has the most work of any model I've put in to date, (well the MotF on bike is a close tie)


Click here for the full 1500x1125 image.



Click here for the full 1500x1125 image.



Click here for the full 1500x1125 image.



With such a light base coat, I never really have bothered with highlights, but concentrated more on shading. My main reason for such a light scheme is I love showing off all the little armor plates and vents, and use those to add dimension to the model.

Comments? Crits? Is that conversion beamer too dorky? I promise I'll get better pics soon.

EL Skirvo fucked around with this message at 17:03 on Nov 4, 2009

Dead Cow
Nov 3, 2009

Passion makes the world go round.
Love just makes it a safer place.


These are two of the minis I've painted recently for my D&D game. They are meant to be handled, so they are tabletop quality.
I got the alien looking guy out of the bargain bin at ye ol game shoppe, and he came with warnings that said "LEAD this really has LEAD in it!" and it was from some French company.













(own hosting)

I'm still using silver paint for metallics. I've read tutorials for NMM, but I'm still hesitant to use it. Hopefully I will feel comfortable enough to try it in the future. Any tips or suggestions are welcome!

PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~


El skurvo: those are nice and clean, and I dont really think a highlight is necessary since the shade does such a good job of creating depth.

Dead Cow: in terms of metallics, you can get some really nice effects without using nmm, just by using GW washes and some other stuff. If you flip back through the thread and check my posts Ive posted a bunch of stuff that uses regular metallics

GoodBee
Apr 8, 2004




I've kind of given up on painting my Lizardmen since I played a game of Warhammer Fantasy and remember that I hate it. The models are cool though. I picked up painting my Menoth again since I actually like playing that game. My Zealots were done and I'm determined to finish my Temple Flameguard before my Malifaux stuff comes in next week. They're almost done and now I've got access to a light box so hopefully I'll finish them in time to take some pictures tomorrow at work.

rzal
Nov 8, 2007



Fun Shoe

That guy looking for Blood bowl footballs, I found you one by accident.

http://www.scifigenre.com/itemDetai...NV1SVXKM0P11V01

MasterSlowPoke
Oct 9, 2005

Our courage will pull us through

That's not nearly deadly enough to be a Blood Bowl ball.

EvilMuppet
Jul 28, 2006

Bork Bork Bork


enri posted:

There was an RT era cyboar that had something like this, the back end was just armoured and it had a wheel in place of its back legs. Googling like crazy to find an image but not having much luck at the mo.

Like this?

bhsman
Feb 9, 2008

by exmarx


That's probably not the model he's thinking of, but a very good conversion nevertheless.

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

You need to click the icon.





EvilMuppet posted:

Like this?

That's actually the WHFB Warboss that I'm trying to convert.

aldantefax
Oct 10, 2007

ALWAYS BE MECHFISHIN'

Hey guys, really liking all the stuff in this thread, it just blows me away that you can get such a rich amount of detail with all these paint schemes. I've recently picked up into getting Warmachine and I am interested in getting started with a paint scheme for Khador - the black/gold scheme posted on page 7 or so with the Butcher and the Man-o-Wars is pretty solid.

And now for the newbie questions: As kind of like a really brand new beginner, what kind of supplies should I be looking for? Is there a significant difference in black primer, etc. that I should be aware of? I have a small pack of brushes that I haven't opened yet and I've started to file the lines off of my minis, but in terms of technique and stuff I am just sort of going to try and follow the painting guide in the back of Warmachine Prime. Are there any other tips and such that I need to know about?

edit: I found a review of that brush cleaner stuff if you guys want to see it in action!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9vC5j4mdlDM

aldantefax fucked around with this message at 00:09 on Nov 6, 2009

PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~


With primer you want something flat and "sandable". If youre in the states regular old krylon flat black works great, duplicolor sandable autoprimer, or armory black spray are all good.

Remember to "stir" the can for about 45 seconds before spraying (hold can at top, spin wrist so ball spins around the bottom ring of can)

Always test your spray on the side of a cardboard box first, to make sure its spraying smoothly

Aranan
May 21, 2007

Release the Kraken


aldantefax posted:

Hey guys, really liking all the stuff in this thread, it just blows me away that you can get such a rich amount of detail with all these paint schemes. I've recently picked up into getting Warmachine and I am interested in getting started with a paint scheme for Khador - the black/gold scheme posted on page 7 or so with the Butcher and the Man-o-Wars is pretty solid.

Do it! For what it's worth, I picked out the colors I want to use on those guys and stole borrowed PV's recipes.

me posted:

Black:
Thamar Black basecoat
1:1 Greatcoat Grey + Thamar Black cover most of the black, leaving some in darker areas, undersides of arms, etc.
Badab Black use this to blend the edges of previous step into the pure black
Greatcoat Grey thin edge highlight
1:1 Greatcoat Grey + Menoth White Highlight final edge highlight on tiniest and highest points

Red:
Skorne Red basecoat
Devlan Mud wash
Skorne Red highlight
2:1 Skorne Red + Iosan Flesh highlight

Gold:
Mithril Silver basecoat
Gryphonne Sepia wash
Gryphonne Sepia wash (yes, again)
Mithril Silver thin edge highlight

Metal:
Boltgun Metal basecoat
Badab Black wash
Khador Red Highlight very thin wash in recesses for rust
Boltgun Metal drybrush highlight
1:1 Boltgun Metal + Mithril Silver edge highlight

MasterSlowPoke
Oct 9, 2005

Our courage will pull us through

Is Krylon Flat White any good (or even exist); the Diplicolor I've been using is a tad too pricey for my wallet.

Bobx66
Feb 11, 2002

We all fell into the pit


PV when are we going to see a group shot of that Nurgle army? I can't even imagine how much you got paid for that.

aldantefax
Oct 10, 2007

ALWAYS BE MECHFISHIN'

Aranan posted:

Do it! For what it's worth, I picked out the colors I want to use on those guys and stole borrowed PV's recipes.

Thanks! I understand that picking out black highlights is kind of a trial in and of itself that other people have reported problems with, but I think I can do it. For the sake of substitution I might use just the P3 paints (my local gaming store stocks only P3s and I'd like to support 'em), so the other washes and inks that look like Citadel and Games Workshop types of paint colors I might have to use that Color Match tool and try to find some equivalents to see what works out.

Question: What do you guys use for a physical palette? I used to know a guy who was really good at painting minis, and he would use a piece of glossy white ceramic tile in addition to some small ceramic bowls for color-specific gradients that he was trying to get. Also, how should a painting area be lit? Incandescent and fluorescent kind of make models look differently, as I understand it.

Thanks again for the help guys! I will get to work and try to see if I can get something painted hopefully soon!

Angryboot
Oct 23, 2005



Grimey Drawer

I finally decided to get space hulk tonight. Got the box home, start putting things together, then almost fainted when termie #8's lighting claw got bent because gw has the brilliant foresight of attaching one of those thin rear end claw pieces to the sprue. Good thing there's no permanent damage. 12 termies and 22 gene stealers are gonna keep me pretty busy for a while I think.

GoodBee
Apr 8, 2004




aldantefax posted:

Question: What do you guys use for a physical palette? I used to know a guy who was really good at painting minis, and he would use a piece of glossy white ceramic tile in addition to some small ceramic bowls for color-specific gradients that he was trying to get. Also, how should a painting area be lit? Incandescent and fluorescent kind of make models look differently, as I understand it.

I've used the P3 wet palette and I really liked it but sometimes I'm too lazy to set it up. I also use this because it has little wells for mixing my own washes and whatever. I got it at Hobby Lobby. I also know a really good painter who uses a ceramic tile.

stabbington
Sep 1, 2007

It doesn't feel right to kill an unarmed man... but I'll get over it.


As far as lighting goes, drop by a garden shop and pick up some full spectrum bulbs if you've got the cash. If nothing else, you'll feel less like poo poo after spending 6 hours bent over tiny plastic dudes than you usually would.

PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~


Bobx66 posted:

PV when are we going to see a group shot of that Nurgle army? I can't even imagine how much you got paid for that.

Soonish, Ive got family in town til sunday but then Ive got like 5 models left to finish.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.



Painting tank tracks: Brown basecoat, tinbitz then boltgun drybrushing?

Or has anyone got a better method?

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Lovely Joe Stalin
Jun 12, 2007

We must finally understand
that of all the precious
capital in the world,
the most precious capital,
the most decisive capital,
is loveliness.
I'm lovely.
Hug me.
I'M LOVELY


Cakefool posted:

Painting tank tracks: Brown basecoat, tinbitz then boltgun drybrushing?

Or has anyone got a better method?

Boltgun metal and then cover them in Mig Track Brown pigment, apply thinner and make sure the coverage is good. Then rub a pencil over the raised edges, then use fixer to lock it all down.

Gives you that particular brown that you see on the tracks of everything from tanks to JCBs.

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