Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Locked thread
PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~


whoa

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

bhsman
Feb 9, 2008

by exmarx


Chaos Spawn kit is the best kit

Danger - Octopus!
Apr 20, 2008




Nap Ghost

Too much work, not enough time to paint spacemen.

Current WIP of the bits that got painted before I assembled the whole thing.


moths
Aug 25, 2004







Danger - Octopus! posted:

Did you use a salt mask for the chipping on the ramp? It looks super good.

crime fighting hog
Jun 29, 2006


moths posted:

Did you use a salt mask for the chipping on the ramp? It looks super good.

Looks like he just stippled.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

Fyrbrand posted:

I might have a bunch spare- I'll check later.

I finally remembered to check. I thought I had some from the random box o' warhams I bought awhile back. Technically I do, but they're part of 3 complete Berserker sprues from the last edition of the box. Since I'll eventually be selling them I can't part out the axes, sorry.

Destro85
Sep 24, 2002




Danger - Octopus! posted:

Too much work, not enough time to paint spacemen.

Current WIP of the bits that got painted before I assembled the whole thing.




Sorry, this is all I can see.

Danger - Octopus!
Apr 20, 2008




Nap Ghost

crime fighting hog posted:

Looks like he just stippled.

Piece of sponge for pro elite stippling action

No Pun Intended
Jul 23, 2007

DWARVEN SEX OFFENDER

ASK ME ABOUT TONING MY FINE ASS DWARVEN BOOTY BY RUNNING FROM THE COPS OUTSIDE THAT ELF KINDERGARTEN

BEHOLD THE DONG OF THE DWARVES! THE DWARVEN DONG IS COMING!


For super pro action:

Paint a metal layer
Stipple latex masking fluid with a piece of sponge
Paint over the metal/mask what ever colours you wanted
Rub mask to remove

No Pun Intended fucked around with this message at 21:15 on Nov 13, 2009

ubermarcus
Mar 17, 2009


Won't that leave very harsh edges to the damaged parts though?
In tutorials I've seen they will specifically paint on a few layers to create depth and different levels of scarring.

A Powerful Cream
Jun 25, 2009

get ready to read some badposts b*tch!! - fdr to hitler, 1972


Gibbus crosspost:

Here is my sergeant finished, did this guy intermittently between watching the ever so rare NBA broadcasts to Australia. I'm pretty happy with him, wish I owned a few more colours but I think he looks nice, all things considered (especially after that rhino)




C&C welcome as always (drill ur barrels)

Broken Loose
Dec 25, 2002

PROGRAM
A > - - -
LR > > - -
LL > - - -


pointless spam, first non-tyranid 40k model etc







!amicable
Jan 20, 2007


^^^
Still love the car.


Whoa there!


And some more love:

rzal
Nov 8, 2007



Fun Shoe

The head growing out of the tentacle is inspired.

!amicable
Jan 20, 2007


rzal posted:

The head growing out of the tentacle is inspired.

Hah. Thanks.

Here's my Herald; I think I posted him before, but maybe these pictures are better?
I varnished him and sort of like the shine he has now, it does make him look worse with a flash, but I think it looks MUCH better than matte varnish in person. I still need to make a light box...





PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~


Your stuff reminds me a lot of John Blanches miniatures, amicable.

The guy just thinks differently than everyone else...its crazy how much his stuff looks like his drawings and paintings

crime fighting hog
Jun 29, 2006


!amicable posted:



E; nevermind I'm too retarded to read. They look great though.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

Woot

removed dead image link


I actually did edge highlights but they're pretty subtle and the lighting washes them out. The shinguard in the 2nd pic shows it reasonably well.

Fyrbrand fucked around with this message at 17:14 on Feb 3, 2015

!amicable
Jan 20, 2007


crime fighting hog posted:

E; nevermind I'm too retarded to read. They look great though.

They are mad shiny. If that's what you were saying.

It's really because I used a flash. All the more reason to finally build a light box I suppose.

Sole.Sushi
Feb 19, 2008

Seaweed!? Get the fuck out!


Fyrbrand posted:

Woot






I actually did edge highlights but they're pretty subtle and the lighting washes them out. The shinguard in the 2nd pic shows it reasonably well.

Snot green with Scorpion edging? Looks good, whatever you used.

Also, Broken Loose, you should paint more stuff that isn't a tyranid: your stuff looks good.

Angryboot
Oct 23, 2005



Grimey Drawer

Sole.Sushi posted:

Also, Broken Loose, you should paint more stuff that isn't a tyranid: your stuff looks good.

Yup. That kasrkin kicks all kinds of rear end.

Rikthor
Sep 28, 2008


My first model after 5+ years of not touching anything miniature related, be gentle.





Ps - Forgive the shinyness, had to use my phone's camera since my regular camera's cord has vanished and I don't have a light box set up either.

PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~


bhsman
Feb 9, 2008

by exmarx


PaintVagrant posted:



You've got samurai warrior in my steampunk!

Sole.Sushi
Feb 19, 2008

Seaweed!? Get the fuck out!


bhsman posted:

You've got samurai warrior in my steampunk!

You've got steampunk in my samurai warrior!

Seriously, what the hell is going on here?

Kitfox88
Aug 20, 2007





Sole.Sushi posted:

You've got steampunk in my samurai warrior!

Seriously, what the hell is going on here?

Awesome is going on there.

PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~


What to you get when you replace a street fighter characters arm with a giant gun

aldantefax
Oct 10, 2007

ALWAYS BE MECHFISHIN'

Hello again! Unfortunately, full time job in addition to full time school is preventing me from actually getting my minis into a box and properly priming them to get them ready to paint. I ordered a bunch of new Warmachine stuff, too, but people keep pressuring me to play (since I got hamboned in an escalation league I basically was not planning to participate in because I have so little time). I do have a question, though!

How do you remove superglue from metal models? I read around and saw there was some like super glue removal kind of deal which works real well - I wanted to paint my models unassembled first and then assemble them after they're properly painted. There was also talk of using nail polish remover or some other type of high-content acetone solution.

On the flip side, when gluing models together, is it worth it to use that Rapid Cure stuff? I heard it reduces adhesion time to like 10-15 seconds from a fresh gluing, which sounds great for temporary assembly, but it also has the tendency to make glue bonds stronger, so I'm confused as to if that is worth buying or not, also.

As always, great work in the thread, and thanks for the advice!

Bobx66
Feb 11, 2002

We all fell into the pit


I dont know where you get your glue from but wherever I go there are 4 different types. The company lets the retailer brand it with their name. There is Purple, Blue, Red, and Green. The green is anti super glue. You pour it on let it sit and wiggle the piece free. Its also great for washing your hands.

On the "kicker" I find that it cures weaker but I love the stuff. I use it all the time on metal models. Just make sure you are pinning your larger bits and the weaker bond wont matter.

PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~


Bobx66 posted:

I dont know where you get your glue from but wherever I go there are 4 different types. The company lets the retailer brand it with their name. There is Purple, Blue, Red, and Green. The green is anti super glue. You pour it on let it sit and wiggle the piece free. Its also great for washing your hands.

On the "kicker" I find that it cures weaker but I love the stuff. I use it all the time on metal models. Just make sure you are pinning your larger bits and the weaker bond wont matter.

The purple stuff + kicker = ownage

aldantefax
Oct 10, 2007

ALWAYS BE MECHFISHIN'

Bobx66 posted:

I dont know where you get your glue from but wherever I go there are 4 different types. The company lets the retailer brand it with their name. There is Purple, Blue, Red, and Green. The green is anti super glue. You pour it on let it sit and wiggle the piece free. Its also great for washing your hands.

On the "kicker" I find that it cures weaker but I love the stuff. I use it all the time on metal models. Just make sure you are pinning your larger bits and the weaker bond wont matter.

I've been using an old bottle of GF9 hobby glue, so I guess that is the Blue label stuff.



Can't say I've ever seen any of the other kinds of glue that you're referring to - would you be able to point me in the right direction? I really have no idea where to buy supplies other than random places online, Home Depot, and my FLGS.

Bobx66
Feb 11, 2002

We all fell into the pit


This is the brand I was referring to:
http://www.bsi-inc.com/Pages/hobby/ca.html

You have to have seen these around right? If not; find a better hobby store. Check out train stores and modeling shops they will have this stuff. The bottle you are looking for is called "un-cure"

http://www.bsi-inc.com/Pages/hobby/accel.html

This stuff is the poo poo. I love GF9 but they tend to be way overpriced. Also while we are on the subject, if you are gluing plastic to plastic don't use super glue, use plastic glue. You lose the ability to debond it but it creates a much better hold.

Captain Invictus
Apr 5, 2005

Try reading some manga!

I buy Steam inventories, add me if interested!




Clever Betty

PaintVagrant posted:

What to you get when you replace a street fighter characters arm with a giant gun

Something awesome? How can something NOT be improved by replacing it with some sort of cyborg futuregun.

Skarsnik
Oct 21, 2008

I...AM...RUUUDE!






Entered the Dreadnought I posted a few pages back into the Cardiff store painting comp and got 1st place in the over 16's category.

I'm 27 though

PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~


I no likey plastic glue.

I think its because when if I screw something up and put too much glue in the bond and it leaks outside of the joint, it damages the model there.

And it takes forever to try

Pagan
Jun 3, 2003



PaintVagrant posted:

I no likey plastic glue.

I think its because when if I screw something up and put too much glue in the bond and it leaks outside of the joint, it damages the model there.

And it takes forever to try

For the amount of models you're doing, you should be using Methyl Ethyl Ketone. It can be found in the paint thinner section of your local hardware store.

I started with one of these : http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...1P?I=LXHE35&P=8 That's $3 for 1 oz. Then I bought a big thing of MEK, I think I got a quart for $9 or something. That's about 35 CENTS an ounce. When the little glass jar gets empty, I refill it from the MEK bottle. It works just the same, and when applied thinly it dries almost instantly. Just press together for a second or two, and that's it.

You have to be careful because it can run, but applying a thin solution with a brush shouldn't be too challenging for you, PV. It's also a wonderful cleaner for your airbrush; I run a little through as my final step to make sure I've gotten rid of any paint. The one big jar of MEK has lasted me almost two years, and I do a lot of model building. It's what I used to scratchbuild my Valkyrie, along with everything else I've done recently. For plastic models, it is by far the best glue I've ever used.

PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~


I guess what Im saying is, why use a glue that melts the model in places that I dont want melted and takes forever to try when I can just use a thick super glue and kicker and the bond is still really strong, and if I REALLY need to pop the joint (swap arms or something) its possible.

To each their own, Ive just never liked it.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

Attn dudes who posted models which I rudely ignored while posting mine: Glad to see other people posting, especially orks. And that Nurgle whateverthefuck dude is pretty crazy, in a good way.

bhsman
Feb 9, 2008

by exmarx


Plastic glue also sucks if worst comes to worst and you want to completely redo an army and get the bits separated. But I mean who would do that, right?

Expect some pictures in a week

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

A Powerful Cream
Jun 25, 2009

get ready to read some badposts b*tch!! - fdr to hitler, 1972


bhsman posted:

Plastic glue also sucks if worst comes to worst and you want to completely redo an army and get the bits separated. But I mean who would do that, right?

Expect some pictures in a week

Until I see some results I'm going to resent you for doing that to your army

  • Locked thread