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Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

Cakefool posted:

You do know that's the end of some dudes finger between those magnets, right?

Why do you think I posted it?

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Fake James
Aug 18, 2005

Y'all got any more of that plastic?


Buglord

Yet another cross post from GBS:

Work in progress still, but it's looking better than the one I posted awhile back. Devlan Mud makes everything better. At first I was going to post that the contrast between the armor color and the trim didn't come out as well as it did in the concept, but it looks better under the light of my flash than under the halogen lamp on my desk.

Critique the poo poo out of it please, I have only recently starting painting again after about 1 and 1/2 years of not doing anything with Warhammer and while I am relearning techniques quickly, I could still use some advice.







Edit: PaintVagrant, do you take on apprentices? Everytime I see your posts with Deathguard I lose faith in my attempts at painting

PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~


This entire thread is my apprentice *laughs maniacally*

Ok not really. I like that model so far, I think how you base it is really going to make or break it. Any ideas?

Fake James
Aug 18, 2005

Y'all got any more of that plastic?


Buglord

PaintVagrant posted:

I think how you base it is really going to make or break it. Any ideas?

Not fully sure yet. I wanted to try doing the sprue cobblestones from some pages back, but its too late for the ones I've already started on unless I'm realllllly careful with snaping off the bases and replacing them (might have to anyways, used a bit too much glue on a few and some hardened drops are making the feet look melted into the bases). Either that or the standard sand+static grass - never used grass before so it would be fun to experiment.

Or I can always break out some zombie bits and make them walking on a field of corpses... I'm rather indecisive.

VVV I mean just putting an arm or head down instead of a rock, I could see how putting a lot more props down would distract majorly. VVV

Fake James fucked around with this message at 22:38 on Nov 23, 2009

Ashcans
Jan 2, 2006

Let's do the space-time warp again!


I don't know if I am in the minority these days, but I think that its best for bases to be well done but fairly minimal. You don't want to do so much with a base that it draws attention away from the actual figure, and really basing should serve to unify the whole force. That doesn't mean just using green flock, some mixed terrain or a nice cobblestone effect is often a very good look. But doing things like making your entire army marching across a field of corpses can actually detract from the overall appearance. Some flourish on a character base can be nice (Wood Elves have some nice examples of this) but be careful about going over the top on the rank-and-file.

Fix
Jul 26, 2005

NEWT THE MOON





Some of us want to distract from our models, thank you very much.

Bobx66
Feb 11, 2002

We all fell into the pit


Ashcans posted:

I don't know if I am in the minority these days, but I think that its best for bases to be well done but fairly minimal. You don't want to do so much with a base that it draws attention away from the actual figure, and really basing should serve to unify the whole force. That doesn't mean just using green flock, some mixed terrain or a nice cobblestone effect is often a very good look. But doing things like making your entire army marching across a field of corpses can actually detract from the overall appearance. Some flourish on a character base can be nice (Wood Elves have some nice examples of this) but be careful about going over the top on the rank-and-file.

Gotta agree here. It is pretty easy to go over the top with basing.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

Bobx66 posted:

Gotta agree here. It is pretty easy to go over the top with basing.

Agreed here, too.

Anyone else care to give an opinion on my painting plans? Otherwise looted wagon it is. (Way to circumvent democracy PV )

Zarkov Cortez
Aug 18, 2007

Alas, our kitten class attack ships were no match for their mighty chairs


Are you knocking my partially submerged cadian in a pool of slime for my dreadnought <>

Ashcans
Jan 2, 2006

Let's do the space-time warp again!


Fyrbrand posted:

Anyone else care to give an opinion on my painting plans? Otherwise looted wagon it is. (Way to circumvent democracy PV )
It's kind of hard to argue against the looted wagon, the Basilisk is a really nice tank and looting one should be awesome. You should have a Grot lodged in the gun barrel, or possibly getting stuffed into the breach.

Zarkov Cortez posted:

Are you knocking my partially submerged cadian in a pool of slime for my dreadnought <>
No, the dreanought base is awesome, and one of the reasons that it works is that the dreadnought itself is a nice, big centerpiece model that is really impressive on its own - so you can put some nice garnish on the base and its not going to unbalance the model. But you wouldn't want to base on top of a wrecked rhino or something, which would be the equivalent of putting your Plague Marine on a half-inch layer of corpses.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

I don't have any grot models suitable for going inside the barrel, unfortunately. But I do have grots on it:



removed dead image link

I'm pretty sure I'm going to lose the gun dude on the platform. Also the model's since been primed, and I forgot how awful that thing was. Two days soaking in stripper and still paint all over the place. Goddamn, random craigslist dude.

Fyrbrand fucked around with this message at 17:15 on Feb 3, 2015

PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~


It looks so festive

MasterSlowPoke
Oct 9, 2005

Our courage will pull us through

Any tips for getting snow bases to look right? I'm going for full snow coverage.

Keep in mind I've lived in Florida all my life and have never seen snow.

Aranan
May 21, 2007

Release the Kraken


MasterSlowPoke posted:

Any tips for getting snow bases to look right? I'm going for full snow coverage.

Keep in mind I've lived in Florida all my life and have never seen snow.


http://archive.brushthralls.com/bas...k-and-snow.html

crime fighting hog
Jun 29, 2006


well they look like complete rear end


Click here for the full 1024x422 image.


I hosed up with the tape I guess, that or I sprayed too close or too far away, I dunno. Should I start over, fix it by hand or tape off again and try it again?

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

When you were talking about the caution stripes, I thought you meant something like this, which is how I've always seen it done in the past:

removed dead image link

Honestly the stripes on the ramp itself look kind of wonky to me, even though that's where they would make the most sense.

Fyrbrand fucked around with this message at 17:15 on Feb 3, 2015

crime fighting hog
Jun 29, 2006


Fyrbrand posted:

When you were talking about the caution stripes, I thought you meant something like this, which is how I've always seen it done in the past:



Honestly the stripes on the ramp itself look kind of wonky to me, even though that's where they would make the most sense.

The area on here that is caution striped I plan on doing boltgun/wash black for simplicity. I'll try to touch it up by hand and then ding the poo poo outta it with chainmail and hope that helps.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

nm I'm dumb

PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~


crime fighting hog posted:

well they look like complete rear end


Click here for the full 1024x422 image.


I hosed up with the tape I guess, that or I sprayed too close or too far away, I dunno. Should I start over, fix it by hand or tape off again and try it again?

I dont think they look bad at all, I think some weathering could sort of mask the soft spray edges

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

Have fun gluing the fins to the center turbine thing when they have just one tiny rear end contact point, while getting it lined up just right so that the doors close properly, oops it just came unglued at the bottom ughhhh gently caress drop pods

crime fighting hog
Jun 29, 2006


PaintVagrant posted:

I dont think they look bad at all, I think some weathering could sort of mask the soft spray edges

you've uncovered my plan pv

crime fighting hog
Jun 29, 2006


Fyrbrand posted:

Have fun gluing the fins to the center turbine thing when they have just one tiny rear end contact point, while getting it lined up just right so that the doors close properly, oops it just came unglued at the bottom ughhhh gently caress drop pods

I hear if you do it one at a time it's not so bad. I'm a patient warham

PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~


Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

One at a time is iffy, because if they dry in the wrong position the doors won't close right (e.g. my first pod). It's hard to explain but you'll see when you start putting it together.

aldantefax
Oct 10, 2007

ALWAYS BE MECHFISHIN'

Welp, going to try and just go through this with one model first and see how it goes. Just put on a second coat of P3 black primer onto a Man-o-War Demo Corps that I had assembled - hopefully it will turn out okay

rzal
Nov 8, 2007



Fun Shoe

^^^Good luck dude.

Just finished with the detail work and final highlights on my orc dude. I was pretty stunned how much those little bits all added up. He looks pretty loving awesome. Going to throw some grass or something on his base tomorrow and dullcote his rear end, before I throw him back in the box in the bottom of the closet. I'll post some final pics then.

MaliciousOnion
Sep 23, 2009

Ignorance, the root of all evil


crime fighting hog posted:

well they look like complete rear end


Click here for the full 1024x422 image.


I hosed up with the tape I guess, that or I sprayed too close or too far away, I dunno. Should I start over, fix it by hand or tape off again and try it again?

That was never going to work with just tape. Masking on corrugated surfaces sucks. You could use blu-tac, but it would be difficult to get your lines straight.



Warhammer: Pull on the base and not the mini itself

What do you do with magnetising slottabases? One little magnet on each side?

Angryboot
Oct 23, 2005



Grimey Drawer

This bastard took me entirely way too long:



First terminator as well as the first red-based mini done; I need to figure out a faster way to do my basecoats; think I did something like 4 coats of mechrite red and then 3 or 4 coats of blood red.

11 more to go

A Powerful Cream
Jun 25, 2009

get ready to read some badposts b*tch!! - fdr to hitler, 1972


If it's any consolation that made me pop a figurative boner (pun intended).

ineptmule
Dec 3, 2005

Not suited, just booted.


College Slice

Hey paintvagrant, you mentioned 'Rust Sauce' a while back, but I can't remember if it was in this or the GBS thread (or the old GBS thread.) I Ctrl-F'd 'rust sauce' through this thread but couldn't find it... What is the recipe again?

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

Here's his paint recipe, which I guess is pretty much the same thing. I use it to great effect on my orks.

[quote]boltgun metal
-badab wash
-water down foundation orange paint, mix w/medium if you have any, apply it to the recesses
-drybrush boltgun
-devlan mud everything
-drybrush mithril
-thin edge highlights w/mithril[quote]

The orange paint is where you get your rust, so depending on what you're doing feel free to apply it all over and in multiple coats if necessary. Also it will look like crap until the devlan mud goes on, so don't freak out.

crime fighting hog
Jun 29, 2006


Angryboot posted:

This bastard took me entirely way too long:



First terminator as well as the first red-based mini done; I need to figure out a faster way to do my basecoats; think I did something like 4 coats of mechrite red and then 3 or 4 coats of blood red.

11 more to go

Looks amazing. The first one is the hardest but after you've figured it out the others take less time

ineptmule
Dec 3, 2005

Not suited, just booted.


College Slice

Fyrbrand posted:

Here's his paint recipe, which I guess is pretty much the same thing. I use it to great effect on my orks.

quote:

boltgun metal
-badab wash
-water down foundation orange paint, mix w/medium if you have any, apply it to the recesses
-drybrush boltgun
-devlan mud everything
-drybrush mithril
-thin edge highlights w/mithril

The orange paint is where you get your rust, so depending on what you're doing feel free to apply it all over and in multiple coats if necessary. Also it will look like crap until the devlan mud goes on, so don't freak out.

Brilliant, thanks!

PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~


I should make a OP post with all my recipes

crime fighting hog
Jun 29, 2006


Just double checking, I'm about to airbrush on some boltgun, does thinning it 1:1 ratio enough or should I use more water?

Fix
Jul 26, 2005

NEWT THE MOON





PaintVagrant posted:

I should make a OP post with all my recipes

You should make a OP post with all your recipes.

Failing that, you should come to my house and paint my stuff.

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002



Grimey Drawer

I'm willing to bet if you flew him out to Hawaii he'd paint some stuff for you. God knows I would.

PaintVagrant
Apr 13, 2007

~ the ultimate driving machine ~


for a trip to hawaii I would paint your entire house in NMM

Lovely Joe Stalin
Jun 12, 2007

We must finally understand
that of all the precious
capital in the world,
the most precious capital,
the most decisive capital,
is loveliness.
I'm lovely.
Hug me.
I'M LOVELY


crime fighting hog posted:

Just double checking, I'm about to airbrush on some boltgun, does thinning it 1:1 ratio enough or should I use more water?

Probably too late now, but I'd start a bit thick and spray onto some paper or something to test it, then add water as needed. But yeah, 1:1 seems like a good starting ratio for GW.

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Fix
Jul 26, 2005

NEWT THE MOON





PaintVagrant posted:

for a trip to hawaii I would paint your entire house in NMM

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