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kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002


bobfather posted:

When you put it into recovery mode and flash Tomato using the Asus firmware tool software, just start the flash and then walk away for 30 minutes. For some reason the initial Tomato flash takes a long time to complete.

Yep that was it, I got it working last night but didn't edit in my fix above. Also, it was more like 45 minutes. I tried it at 30 and it still didn't work.

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Ramadu
Aug 25, 2004

2015 NFL MVP




So I recently got an Apple Extreeeeeeme Base Station router and I have been using http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005UKHFBM/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 as my wireless USB dongle. I was wondering if there was anything better or newer to make speeds go faster with this router or if that isn't necessary.

skipdogg
Nov 29, 2004
Resident SRT-4 Expert


The 5th + gen AEBS is 3x3 MIMO which should be good for 450Mbps on 2.4 or 5Ghz.

So yeah, theoretical speeds by going to a 450Mbps adapter you might see a little more throughput on internal data transfers, but personally I wouldn't bother spending any money to change the adapter. Your internet connection won't get any faster (assuming you don't have some 1Gpbs fiber). So unless moving major data wirelessly in your home network is important, don't worry about it.

Farecoal
Oct 15, 2011

There he go


Is there a way to connect my laptop with my desktop (both Windows 7) so that they can see all of each others folders? Specifically, I want to move some game files from my laptop to the desktop.

Rexxed posted:

Sure, either you can join them to the same homegroup and then right click the folders you want to share and pick "share with homegroup" or you can go a little more oldschool and just manually share them which usually requires username/password login to the other machine.

There's also public folders as an option if you set your machine to use them. Take alook at:
http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/share-files-with-someone#1TC=windows-7

To share literally all of your folders you'll want to share the whole C drive. If you take your laptop to other places you probably should remove that particular share after you're done with it or make certain that it knows that it should only share that on "home network" and not public networks so that people aren't randomly grabbing all your files on public wifi.

Cool, thank you.

Farecoal fucked around with this message at 01:31 on Jan 12, 2014

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!



Farecoal posted:

Is there a way to connect my laptop with my desktop (both Windows 7) so that they can see all of each others folders? Specifically, I want to move some game files from my laptop to the desktop.

Sure, either you can join them to the same homegroup and then right click the folders you want to share and pick "share with homegroup" or you can go a little more oldschool and just manually share them which usually requires username/password login to the other machine.

There's also public folders as an option if you set your machine to use them. Take alook at:
http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/share-files-with-someone#1TC=windows-7

To share literally all of your folders you'll want to share the whole C drive. If you take your laptop to other places you probably should remove that particular share after you're done with it or make certain that it knows that it should only share that on "home network" and not public networks so that people aren't randomly grabbing all your files on public wifi.

GigaFuzz
Aug 10, 2009



Rexxed posted:


To share literally all of your folders you'll want to share the whole C drive. If you take your laptop to other places you probably should remove that particular share after you're done with it or make certain that it knows that it should only share that on "home network" and not public networks so that people aren't randomly grabbing all your files on public wifi.

Windows by default makes your hard drives accessible via a hidden share. So if you have an admin-level account on the laptop, you can browse it's C drive at the address '\\laptopname\C$' (a dollar sign after share name means it's hidden).

Farecoal
Oct 15, 2011

There he go


The aforementioned laptop is providing internet to the desktop through an ethernet cable and a bridged connection, however this is apparently causing an IP address conflict which Windows keeps oh so helpfully mentioning to me. Is there a way to fix this or am I stuck with it?

Whenever it does this it interrupts my internet connection for a few seconds, which normally wouldn't be a problem except when I'm playing a game online. Also, the laptop is getting it's wireless connection from a repeater which is getting it from the router.

Farecoal fucked around with this message at 23:28 on Jan 12, 2014

emdash
Oct 19, 2003

and?


Finally bit the bullet and ordered an N66U. Is there any agreement on which TomatoUSB mod is best, or should I go DDWRT? Or is it just down to individual preference? I last used polarcloud's original tomato on a WRT54 so I'm way out of the loop on this stuff

Ashex
Jun 24, 2007

These pipes are cleeeean!!!

The interface for DDWRT is a bit difficult to work with, Take a look at the TomatoUSB forks and try it out.

bobfather
Sep 20, 2001

I will analyze your nervous system for beer money

Shibbys Tomato is best.

Housh
Jul 9, 2001






Would you guys recommend a rt-n66u over rt-ac66u? I'm trying to decide between the two. Only $40 difference. I don't think my home network has any ac devices but we have a lot of connections and it always crashes my wireless n airport express.

Munkeymon
Aug 14, 2003

Motherfucker's got an
armor-piercing crowbar! Rigoddamndicu𝜆ous.





bobfather posted:

You guys might be overdramatizing things here regarding the N66U.

Yes, the stock firmware sucks. Luckily there's Merlin's, Tomato, DD-WRT and OpenWRT available for it, all of which are mature and good firmware.

Edit: and Tomato is flashed onto it exactly the same way any other unofficial firmware is - by putting the router in recovery mode and then using the Asus Flash Utility. I used the newest version of Shibby's Tomato for my N66U. It does take a really long time to finish flashing though, so just start the firmware upload in the Flash Utility and literally walk away and go vacuum out your car or something. When you get back, you'll have literally the best N router hardware with vastly improved firmware waiting for you.

Small quibble, but the official firmware can be flashed through the web UI without going into a special mode. I know because I upgraded after I realized the shipped firmware was old. Didn't make much difference, though. My first setup on the latest official firmware did the forgotten password bullshit after I had to reset it because I turned off IP6.

My old standby router password is "only" 14 characters and has muscle memory on its side. I did not fat-finger it twice on two separate occasions - this firmware is just poo poo on a shingle.

Haven't gotten around to going 3rd party yet - sorry, I've been too busy. Hopefully I'll have something to report in about 19 hours.

Tapedump
Aug 31, 2007


College Slice

Housh posted:

Would you guys recommend a rt-n66u over rt-ac66u? I'm trying to decide between the two. Only $40 difference. I don't think my home network has any ac devices but we have a lot of connections and it always crashes my wireless n airport express.

That's much, much more about the Express being seriously underpowered near-garbage rather than its wireless spec. The N66U is more than sufficient.

MrBond
Feb 19, 2004

FYI, Cheese NIPS are not the same as Cheez ITS

Does anyone have a recommendation for a wireless N card for a desktop? I'm thinking of this for PCIE (http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WDN4800-Wireless-Express-Low-profile/dp/B007GMPZ0A) and this for USB (http://www.amazon.com/Asus-Wireless-N-Graphical-Interface-USB-N53/dp/B005SAKW9G) but can't decide between them. I'm also open to other options if recommended.

emdash
Oct 19, 2003

and?


I think it's generally agreed that you should go for the Intel desktop mini-PCIe adapter http://www.amazon.com/Intel-Centrin...entrino+desktop. I've had excellent results with it in my HTPC.

I don't know anything about USB NICs

emdash fucked around with this message at 19:26 on Jan 13, 2014

kedo
Nov 27, 2007



Hola goons. I'm having issues setting up a Belkin wireless router as a... I don't know what you'd call it because I don't know much networking terminology. Basically we use our SMC cable modem as our DHCP server (at 10.1.10.1), and we have a few wireless routers attached at various points around the house (eg. "upstairs wifi," "basement wifi," etc). These routers all have their DHCP server setting disabled, and I generally assign them a static IP on the network like 10.1.10.197.

Our new Belkin router is being a pain in the rear end.



I'm trying to set its IP to 10.1.10.195, which is fine, but no matter what I try in the subnet mask fields it always returns an "invalid subnet mask address" error. Our other routers are set up similarly, but their subnet masks are all 0.0.0.0. On this Belkin I cannot change the first 255. Tried everything I could on this list with no success.

Any help?

MrBond
Feb 19, 2004

FYI, Cheese NIPS are not the same as Cheez ITS

TheQat posted:

I think it's generally agreed that you should go for the Intel desktop mini-PCIe adapter http://www.amazon.com/Intel-Centrin...entrino+desktop. I've had excellent results with it in my HTPC.

I don't know anything about USB NICs

Oh drat, I didn't know intel did those for desktops. Yeah that sounds perfect.

Cenodoxus
Mar 29, 2012

while [[ true ]] ; do
    pour()
done

kedo posted:

Hola goons. I'm having issues setting up a Belkin wireless router as a... I don't know what you'd call it because I don't know much networking terminology. Basically we use our SMC cable modem as our DHCP server (at 10.1.10.1), and we have a few wireless routers attached at various points around the house (eg. "upstairs wifi," "basement wifi," etc). These routers all have their DHCP server setting disabled, and I generally assign them a static IP on the network like 10.1.10.197.

Our new Belkin router is being a pain in the rear end.



I'm trying to set its IP to 10.1.10.195, which is fine, but no matter what I try in the subnet mask fields it always returns an "invalid subnet mask address" error. Our other routers are set up similarly, but their subnet masks are all 0.0.0.0. On this Belkin I cannot change the first 255. Tried everything I could on this list with no success.

Any help?

What you're describing is an Access Point. An access point provides a way for wireless users to access the network, but doesn't provide any routing or DHCP services.

The reason your Belkin is barfing up that subnet mask is because it's invalid. The subnet mask gives the device an easy way to tell which IP addresses are on its local network, and which IP addresses it needs to use the router to get to.

In your case, since your router is at 10.1.10.1 and everything on your network is in the IP range of 10.1.10.0 through 10.1.10.255, you'll want to set your subnet mask to 255.255.255.0.

The end result is that your devices will go to the router and ask for directions if they need to talk to an IP address that doesn't start with 10.1.10.

kedo
Nov 27, 2007



Cenodoxus posted:

What you're describing is an Access Point. An access point provides a way for wireless users to access the network, but doesn't provide any routing or DHCP services.

Duh. You should have made up a much more complex term, because I would have believed you.

Cenodoxus posted:

The reason your Belkin is barfing up that subnet mask is because it's invalid. The subnet mask gives the device an easy way to tell which IP addresses are on its local network, and which IP addresses it needs to use the router to get to.

In your case, since your router is at 10.1.10.1 and everything on your network is in the IP range of 10.1.10.0 through 10.1.10.255, you'll want to set your subnet mask to 255.255.255.0.

The end result is that your devices will go to the router and ask for directions if they need to talk to an IP address that doesn't start with 10.1.10.

Sadly I tried 255.255.255.0 and it still returned the same error message. That was actually the first one I tried, because that's the subnet mask on our modem. Is this maybe an issue with their admin panel or something?

Inspector_666
Oct 7, 2003

benny with the good hair


kedo posted:

Duh. You should have made up a much more complex term, because I would have believed you.


Sadly I tried 255.255.255.0 and it still returned the same error message. That was actually the first one I tried, because that's the subnet mask on our modem. Is this maybe an issue with their admin panel or something?

Are the other routers the same model? You may need to just turn off the DHCP server and plug the LAN connection into one of the switch ports rather than the WAN port.

Cenodoxus
Mar 29, 2012

while [[ true ]] ; do
    pour()
done

kedo posted:

Sadly I tried 255.255.255.0 and it still returned the same error message. That was actually the first one I tried, because that's the subnet mask on our modem. Is this maybe an issue with their admin panel or something?

That's deeply concerning, it sounds like it won't let you use a subnet mask other than 255.0.0.0. This sends up a red flag, because any networking equipment made since at least 2000 should let you specify a different subnet mask no matter what. The fact that Belkin's software can't comprehend variable-length subnet masks, a huge part of the Internet Protocol for the last two decades, is a huge red flag.

I would suggest returning it or flashing an alternate firmware (DD-WRT, etc) if your model is supported.

I'm curious - if you set the IP address to 172.16.0.1 and try 255.255.0.0, does it work? How about 192.168.0.1 and 255.255.255.0? If both of those combinations work, then yeah, that Belkin's hosed.

Cenodoxus fucked around with this message at 22:35 on Jan 13, 2014

clockworx
Oct 15, 2005
The Internet Whore made me buy this account

I've heard awful things about pretty much all Belkin firmwares. Does the model you have take Tomato?

MMD3
May 16, 2006

Montmartre -> Portland

We'll be moving into a home we're remodeling in a few months here, the wiring is being laid in the next couple of weeks.

I was initially thinking I wanted to use a POE router but now I'm not so sure it's necessary so long as there's a power outlet close to wherever we locate the WAP. I don't really have any need to put in security cameras or any other home automation types of devices.

I'd like to go w/ the ubiquiti products based on good reviews, I don't need anything super-pro but if the budget allows for reliable well-built equipment I'd love to do it right the first time so to speak and it's a good opportunity to step up to 802.11AC

What I'm looking for a recommendation on is what equipment from their product line I'd be best served by... whether it's Edge Router vs Edge Router Pro and Unifi UAP AC vs. UAP Pro or what not.

Here's how I'd like the setup to work.

Second Floor
Master Bedroom and Bathroom
I want to put a drop in the bedroom just in case we ever put a desk in there but most likely it'll never be used and we'll just use wifi upstairs.

First Floor
Kitchen, Office, Living Room, Dining Room, and Bathroom
I want drops in the kitchen and possibly living room just but definitely a wired connection in the office for my PC. I'd definitely like whatever WAP we go with to have a strong signal out into the back yard and if I could get a signal at the park that's a block away where I'll be walking the dog then that'd be a major bonus.

Basement
Laundry Room, Den/TV Room
I'm hoping to put a small wall-mounted rack in the laundry room on the back side of the wall my tv will be hanging on in the den. I'd put my HTPC, media NAS, and hopefully my cable modem, router, etc. in this rack. Potentially some A/V equipment would sit on it too. For my home theater I would want to get wired connections to my TV, Router, HTPC, Roku, and whatever gaming consoles I end up with, currently just a PS3.

Any recommendations on what router/wap/switches I should be looking at would be super helpful. I was thinking it'd probably make the most sense to put a WAP on the first floor assuming it could reach into the basement w/out much trouble. The footprint of the house isn't very big, only about ~800 sq.ft. a floor. I'd imaginei any of the UAP's could get the job done fairly well. My current cable modem is a motorola sb6120, current router is a netgear n750 I believe.

Thanks for any recommendations.

MrMoo
Sep 14, 2000



The Edge Router + UniFi AC looks an interesting combination and not too far off price from a regular 802.11ac Airport.

kedo
Nov 27, 2007



Inspector_666 posted:

Are the other routers the same model? You may need to just turn off the DHCP server and plug the LAN connection into one of the switch ports rather than the WAN port.

This did the trick, thanks very much!

Cenodoxus posted:

That's deeply concerning, it sounds like it won't let you use a subnet mask other than 255.0.0.0. This sends up a red flag, because any networking equipment made since at least 2000 should let you specify a different subnet mask no matter what. The fact that Belkin's software can't comprehend variable-length subnet masks, a huge part of the Internet Protocol for the last two decades, is a huge red flag.

I would suggest returning it or flashing an alternate firmware (DD-WRT, etc) if your model is supported.

I'm curious - if you set the IP address to 172.16.0.1 and try 255.255.0.0, does it work? How about 192.168.0.1 and 255.255.255.0? If both of those combinations work, then yeah, that Belkin's hosed.

I'm still really confused by this, but as far as I'm concerned everything is working now so I'm not going to dig too deeply into it. For some reason it didn't like me specifically requesting a static IP on the network, and because of this I can no longer access the control panel for the router (doesn't show up in the list of connected devices on our modem either). But I suppose I can always just do a factory reset if I really need to change anything. Still, weird.

Munkeymon
Aug 14, 2003

Motherfucker's got an
armor-piercing crowbar! Rigoddamndicu𝜆ous.





bobfather posted:

Shibbys Tomato is best.

Sure seems really nice so far. I basically just followed this: https://gist.github.com/joshenders/3941269 with this firmware which happened to be the newest when I was looking. One thing that gist doesn't mention is that the firmware upload can fail and it's not something to freak out over. Just try again.

emdash
Oct 19, 2003

and?


Munkeymon posted:

Sure seems really nice so far. I basically just followed this: https://gist.github.com/joshenders/3941269 with this firmware which happened to be the newest when I was looking. One thing that gist doesn't mention is that the firmware upload can fail and it's not something to freak out over. Just try again.

Thanks for that link, I'm getting my N66U today and wasn't sure about the steps

knox_harrington
Feb 18, 2011

Running no point.

MMD3 posted:

Any recommendations on what router/wap/switches I should be looking at would be super helpful. I was thinking it'd probably make the most sense to put a WAP on the first floor assuming it could reach into the basement w/out much trouble. The footprint of the house isn't very big, only about ~800 sq.ft. a floor. I'd imaginei any of the UAP's could get the job done fairly well. My current cable modem is a motorola sb6120, current router is a netgear n750 I believe.

Thanks for any recommendations.

I think you'll really like the Ubiquiti stuff. I went with an Edge Router Lite, a Toughswitch, and a standard Unifi AP, it's been completely rock solid over the past 2.5 months it's been running. I get signal from my AP out to 50m away from my house, the AP is on the 3rd floor and it's an old brick building. It reaches easily into the floors above and below without losing a significant amount of signal.

In reality you don't need the POE switch as the access points come with a power injector, so you can use any gigabit switch with enough ports and the injector, or a POE strip if you're going to end up having lots more access points. Also the Unifi AC needs 48V POE rather than the 24V of the base version, so my setup using a standard toughswitch wouldn't work, it only does the 24V.

So I would say keep current modem, edge router lite, 16 port GbE switch, Unifi UAP AC and you can add a UAP Outdoor if you want more signal outdoors.

Inspector_666
Oct 7, 2003

benny with the good hair


kedo posted:

This did the trick, thanks very much!

Cool. It's a really annoying "feature" and I hate it.

MMD3
May 16, 2006

Montmartre -> Portland

knox_harrington posted:

I think you'll really like the Ubiquiti stuff. I went with an Edge Router Lite, a Toughswitch, and a standard Unifi AP, it's been completely rock solid over the past 2.5 months it's been running. I get signal from my AP out to 50m away from my house, the AP is on the 3rd floor and it's an old brick building. It reaches easily into the floors above and below without losing a significant amount of signal.

In reality you don't need the POE switch as the access points come with a power injector, so you can use any gigabit switch with enough ports and the injector, or a POE strip if you're going to end up having lots more access points. Also the Unifi AC needs 48V POE rather than the 24V of the base version, so my setup using a standard toughswitch wouldn't work, it only does the 24V.

So I would say keep current modem, edge router lite, 16 port GbE switch, Unifi UAP AC and you can add a UAP Outdoor if you want more signal outdoors.

I'm not seeing a non-POE 16 port switch from Ubiquiti, am I missing one somewhere or should I just go with any old brand's 16 port GbE switch?

Anything else I should look at adding to the shopping list if I'm thinking about using a rack like this?
http://www.sanus.com/en_US/products/racks/cfr1615/

Would a patch panel or rack-mounted surge protector make sense? I'm not 100% clear on what the benefit of patch panels is.

Inspector_666
Oct 7, 2003

benny with the good hair


MMD3 posted:

Would a patch panel or rack-mounted surge protector make sense? I'm not 100% clear on what the benefit of patch panels is.

The benefit is that your wall jack cables run to it instead of directly to the devices. This is helpful in terms of general cable management and also if you need to move stuff in the rack around or whatnot since you just have to vary the cable length between the panel and device, rather than hoping there's enough slack in the home run.

Personally, I also think there is no way to label cables in a way that is nearly as quick and easy to read as it is on a panel as well.

MMD3
May 16, 2006

Montmartre -> Portland

Inspector_666 posted:

The benefit is that your wall jack cables run to it instead of directly to the devices. This is helpful in terms of general cable management and also if you need to move stuff in the rack around or whatnot since you just have to vary the cable length between the panel and device, rather than hoping there's enough slack in the home run.

Personally, I also think there is no way to label cables in a way that is nearly as quick and easy to read as it is on a panel as well.

can you write on a patch panel or something? or just color code?

sorry if these are noob networking questions, I've never done anything beyond setup a consumer router prior to trying to set up our new house.

Inspector_666
Oct 7, 2003

benny with the good hair


MMD3 posted:

can you write on a patch panel or something? or just color code?

Hell yeah man, it's what the white spaces are for. (Also the pre-printed numbers )

There are also several different panel designs, but they should all have at least enough room for some kind of labeling scheme.

MMD3
May 16, 2006

Montmartre -> Portland

Inspector_666 posted:

Hell yeah man, it's what the white spaces are for. (Also the pre-printed numbers )

There are also several different panel designs, but they should all have at least enough room for some kind of labeling scheme.

awesome!

so now I just need recommendations for a decent 16 port GbE switch, a decent 16 port patch panel, and a decent wall-mountable rack to house all of this in addition to some a/v equipment. There's a possibility that I'd be putting all of my A/V equipment in a cabinet/rack against the back side of the wall the tv is on and just running an IR repeater into the den.

Skeleton Ape
Dec 21, 2008



I bought a RT-N66U about a week ago and have had nothing but problems so far. Just looking for a quick sanity check before I return it.

Several times a day the Wi-Fi slows to a crawl. It doesn't matter if I'm sitting right next to the antennas, even with a strong signal I barely get 100 KB/s down. Sometimes it gets better after a few minutes, but more often it stays that way for hours. It happens simultaneously on the 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz bands. The wired connection is just as fast as ever, so it's definitely a Wi-Fi issue.

I have lots of neighbors (about a dozen nearby 2.4 GHz networks, but I'm the only 5 GHhz in the area). I had no such issues with my previous router. I've tried both the stock firmware and Shibby Tomato, no difference. I've tried 20 and 40 MHz bandwidths, auto channel select and manually setting it to every available channel, and short and long preambles.

It's kind of frustrating because when it's fast, it's really fast. Anything else I should be trying before I just say gently caress it and reconnect the WRT54G?

Skeleton Ape fucked around with this message at 04:06 on Jan 15, 2014

Inspector_666
Oct 7, 2003

benny with the good hair


MMD3 posted:

awesome!

so now I just need recommendations for a decent 16 port GbE switch, a decent 16 port patch panel, and a decent wall-mountable rack to house all of this in addition to some a/v equipment. There's a possibility that I'd be putting all of my A/V equipment in a cabinet/rack against the back side of the wall the tv is on and just running an IR repeater into the den.


I think a patch panel is a patch panel, they're effectively just wall jacks on a rack-sized faceplate, so it's hard to gently caress up. And the rack will depend on how much stuff you plan to put in it, total.

UndyingShadow
May 15, 2006
You're looking ESPECIALLY shadowy this evening, Sir

Skeleton Ape posted:

I bought a RT-N66U about a week ago and have had nothing but problems so far. Just looking for a quick sanity check before I return it.

Several times a day the Wi-Fi slows to a crawl. It doesn't matter if I'm sitting right next to the antennas, even with a strong signal I barely get 100 KB/s down. Sometimes it gets better after a few minutes, but more often it stays that way for hours. It happens simultaneously on the 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz bands. The wired connection is just as fast as ever, so it's definitely a Wi-Fi issue.

I have lots of neighbors (about a dozen nearby 2.4 GHz networks, but I'm the only 5 GHhz in the area). I had no such issues with my previous router. I've tried both the stock firmware and Shibby Tomato, no difference. I've tried 20 and 40 MHz bandwidths, auto channel select and manually setting it to every available channel, and short and long preambles.

It's kind of frustrating because when it's fast, it's really fast. Anything else I should be trying before I just say gently caress it and reconnect the WRT54G?

I didn't have any luck with the asus .ac routers, try the net gear nighthawk, it's been trouble free since I turned it on.

MMD3
May 16, 2006

Montmartre -> Portland

Inspector_666 posted:

I think a patch panel is a patch panel, they're effectively just wall jacks on a rack-sized faceplate, so it's hard to gently caress up. And the rack will depend on how much stuff you plan to put in it, total.

Makes sense... How about the switch? Any recommendations?

knox_harrington
Feb 18, 2011

Running no point.

One thing I forgot to mention is that the Edge Router doesn't come configured at all - as in, no routing or firewall and if you plug things in straight away it would have no idea what to do with the data.

http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/lanwan/lanwan-howto/32014-how-to-configure-your-ubiquiti-edgerouter-lite

It's fairly straightforward if you follow the instructions, but not exactly as easy as a consumer router. Worth it though.

For the switch, yes you can use any gigabit one and it doesn't need to be a Ubiquiti one. I don't have specific experience but would think you can get any Netgear / TP-link / whatever unmanaged one.

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-SG1024-1000Mbps-Rackmountable-Capacity/dp/B003BU0EKW

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Skeleton Ape
Dec 21, 2008



UndyingShadow posted:

I didn't have any luck with the asus .ac routers, try the net gear nighthawk, it's been trouble free since I turned it on.

The N66U isn't ac. Routers that support it seem to be a lot more expensive, but if that's a better choice than the Asus maybe I'll check it out.

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