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meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

EVERYWHERE
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!



BonoMan posted:

I don't have a sunroof. I've already identified it (hence me saying I was going to fix it this weekend). It was a two fold problem, dry rot in the seals on the back windows (not the inner seal, but the exterior blade seal on the actual window) and the plastic water seal on the actual interior of the door has come un-epoxied. I actually took the entire door apart to find this out and then ran my own tests by pouring water into the window to follow it and sure enough it was running out through the door into the back floorboards (as well as through the appropriate drain). When I first encountered the problem *only* the back floorboards were wet and nothing else so that let me identify the problem pretty quickly.

That's an impressive and uncommon leak. Are you somewhere that sees extreme heat and sun exposure? Sounds like you have the leak handled.

Ozone is always a good thing with leaks like that. I bought a car a couple months ago with EVERY drain on the vehicle turbo-plugged. It similarly flooded the floorboards and molded the interior (before I bought it). I fixed the drain issues and set out to clear up the smell -- which was a mix of mold from the moisture, combined with a Renuzit jar that I know the PO poured out in some places in the car. It was STRONG on both fronts. But several 1/2 hour ozone treatments and a little bit of time and the thing is back to the stereotypical "Modern VW" smell.

Ozone is an excellent disinfectant, so it's definitely something to consider with kids.

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BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002


Jade Ear Joe

meatpimp posted:

That's an impressive and uncommon leak. Are you somewhere that sees extreme heat and sun exposure? Sounds like you have the leak handled.

Ozone is always a good thing with leaks like that. I bought a car a couple months ago with EVERY drain on the vehicle turbo-plugged. It similarly flooded the floorboards and molded the interior (before I bought it). I fixed the drain issues and set out to clear up the smell -- which was a mix of mold from the moisture, combined with a Renuzit jar that I know the PO poured out in some places in the car. It was STRONG on both fronts. But several 1/2 hour ozone treatments and a little bit of time and the thing is back to the stereotypical "Modern VW" smell.

Ozone is an excellent disinfectant, so it's definitely something to consider with kids.

Awesome thanks for the advice!

As for the seals - I'm in central Mississippi where it can get unbearably hot with tons of sun exposure. But I've lived here all my life and never had a car do this. Every window seal rotted out. All four. The seals for the left and right of the windshield rotted away. Just the left and right. This particular generation of the Civic has the stupidest design ever. The front windshield is actually sunken in from the frame. So the top has a fairly standard seal, but the left and right have these really weird think seals that protrude OUTWARD from the windshield. Not surprised they didn't last. I see several civics around town with them missing as well.

But I'm still surprised the rest of the seals all gave way as well as the interior plastic sheathing (looks like visqueen?). It's actually a hand-me down car from my wife and she said the dealer already tried to fix the interior seal once and it's already come unglued so I'm goign to just super expoxy all that poo poo shut.

edit: You can see how sunken the side windshield trim is in this shot:

BonoMan fucked around with this message at 23:22 on Jan 7, 2020

Chunjee
Oct 27, 2004
I can't read or write

drat that car does not look old enough to be having this many rubber issues.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002


Jade Ear Joe

Yep it's bad. Like clearly it's an abnormally short lifespan I just don't know why. Maybe I drove behind some leaky solvent tanker back in the day who knows.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter


BonoMan posted:


But I'm still surprised the rest of the seals all gave way as well as the interior plastic sheathing (looks like visqueen?). It's actually a hand-me down car from my wife and she said the dealer already tried to fix the interior seal once and it's already come unglued so I'm goign to just super expoxy all that poo poo shut.

edit: You can see how sunken the side windshield trim is in this shot:

I've used the actual weatherstripping glue a couple of times and haven't had it come loose, but I'm sure the epoxy will be a one and done. Be sure to clean it super well.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Gimme Gimme Swedish Fish...



Fallen Rib

As for your seats, maybe check out Wet Okole Neoprene seat covers? They're not bad looking, and fit really well. We ran them on work trucks for years, and my wife's CX-5 has them now.

Arson Daily
Aug 11, 2003

FR8 4 LYFE

Fun Shoe

All of my garden hoses are pieces of poo poo! What are some good ones?

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


I'm very happy with my never kink.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00INTILRO/

Evil SpongeBob
Dec 1, 2005

Not the other one, couldn't stand the other one. Nope nope nope. Here, enjoy this bird.

Whelp, sitting here waiting for my polishing and compound class to start at chemical guys. Apparently you get a big discount on stuff if you take a class on class day and a permanent smaller discount for life.

Big Taint
Oct 19, 2003



I have been replacing hoses with Flexzillas from Amazon and they have been nice to use and hold up well. And they are bright green which is cool.



Paint chip repair is fun?

Evil SpongeBob
Dec 1, 2005

Not the other one, couldn't stand the other one. Nope nope nope. Here, enjoy this bird.

Did my polishing class. Got 30% off today and 10% off forever. I gained a new respect for those that do this for a living. I also got clay/lube, a DA polisher and minor swirl polish plus all in one sealant polish because gently caress doing correction, sealant, glaze and wax.

The bad part is my old rear end is still trying to process the little ceasars pizza they bought for lunch.

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!

Does anyone in here have experience vinyl wrapping interior trim or is there a more appropriate thread to ask questions in?

Long story short, I ordered an Android Auto head unit for my MS3 and I think I will want to vinyl wrap the trim kit/bezel to match the gloss black of the trim.

The trim kit doesn't look too complicated so I hope I could do a half decent job.

It looks like the 3m 1080 series gloss black vinyl is fairly inexpensive and will be good for this use. Where should I look to buy it (or another brand) to avoid getting some counterfeit good?

Is there anything else I should watch out for?

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

EVERYWHERE
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!



MetaJew posted:

Does anyone in here have experience vinyl wrapping interior trim or is there a more appropriate thread to ask questions in?

Long story short, I ordered an Android Auto head unit for my MS3 and I think I will want to vinyl wrap the trim kit/bezel to match the gloss black of the trim.

The trim kit doesn't look too complicated so I hope I could do a half decent job.

It looks like the 3m 1080 series gloss black vinyl is fairly inexpensive and will be good for this use. Where should I look to buy it (or another brand) to avoid getting some counterfeit good?

Is there anything else I should watch out for?

I used 3M 1080 for blacking out the chrome trim on my BMW wagon. Definitely pay the extra for the legit 3M stuff. For the amount you're looking at, the price is negligible. It goes on easy, is very workable, I wouldn't feel comfortable doing a body panel myself, but inside trim I'd do without hesitation. Just have a heat gun to warm it up when you need it to bend/stretch a bit more than it wants to give straight away. I got mine on eBay from a high-volume seller and it was legit.

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!

meatpimp posted:

I used 3M 1080 for blacking out the chrome trim on my BMW wagon. Definitely pay the extra for the legit 3M stuff. For the amount you're looking at, the price is negligible. It goes on easy, is very workable, I wouldn't feel comfortable doing a body panel myself, but inside trim I'd do without hesitation. Just have a heat gun to warm it up when you need it to bend/stretch a bit more than it wants to give straight away. I got mine on eBay from a high-volume seller and it was legit.

Cool, thanks!

Do you need any special tools or squeegees to do the job, or will a plastic credit card or something like that so the trick?

taqueso
Mar 8, 2004









Fun Shoe

Anyone have some videos or information on molding/fusing car carpet? Or is it not practical to do that? Should I made a little slot to hide the edges where two pieces meet?


e: found this as a start
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4TH9rSqPWAs

taqueso fucked around with this message at 23:53 on Feb 4, 2020

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

EVERYWHERE
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!



MetaJew posted:

Cool, thanks!

Do you need any special tools or squeegees to do the job, or will a plastic credit card or something like that so the trick?

Sorry, missed this question. Get the cheapo plastic scraper/squeegees from Amazon/HF/Aliexpress and that's all you need. Credit card works, but the squeegees are more flexible and cost next to nothing.

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!

meatpimp posted:

Sorry, missed this question. Get the cheapo plastic scraper/squeegees from Amazon/HF/Aliexpress and that's all you need. Credit card works, but the squeegees are more flexible and cost next to nothing.

I got it done without a squeegee, it's not perfect, but it works. However, the orange peel in the 3m gloss black vinyl is pretty bad. That's kind of disappointing.

Also, it looks like I was shipped the 3M 2080 vinyl instead of 1080. A quick googling says that the 2080 is apparently easier to install?


I'll have to take some photos of the installation in daylight, but here is my first attempt. Getting those rounded inside corners right was difficult and there is a little wrinkling. I could probably try to redo it, but whatever.

empty baggie
Oct 22, 2003



Lipstick Apathy

From what I remember, the 2080 is supposed to be 3M's replacement for 1080.

taqueso
Mar 8, 2004









Fun Shoe

Do you guys think 3M 2080 in matte black or satin black will match best with plastic trim? I want to cover the chrome exterior window trim.

There is some water on the trim in this photo, but hopefully it gives you an idea what it's like.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

like and subscribe for more passive-aggressive roadway bullshit adventure in Chigcao

Matte, but it's still not going to match. Paint it?

taqueso
Mar 8, 2004









Fun Shoe

Maybe match isn't the right word. More 'look good with'. The only chrome on it is this stuff around the windows and some of the front grille. I don't feel like I have the skills to paint this stuff in a quality manner, tbh.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

EVERYWHERE
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!



taqueso posted:

Maybe match isn't the right word. More 'look good with'. The only chrome on it is this stuff around the windows and some of the front grille. I don't feel like I have the skills to paint this stuff in a quality manner, tbh.



Ideal location for 3M vinyl. Satin would probably be the best, since you're not really trying to match the plastic trim, you're trying to match the satin and gloss trim around the windows themselves.

taqueso
Mar 8, 2004









Fun Shoe

meatpimp posted:

you're trying to match the satin and gloss trim around the windows themselves.

Great point, thanks!

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!

Another option is to quickly mask it off with painters tape and paper, and then just use a can of rattlecan plastidip to spray it.

That's what I did on my mom's 2001 Tacoma many years ago. It held up for a decent amount and looked better than the faded/discolored overfenders.

There is also some products that will restore the color of oxidized body plastics. Something like this:
https://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-U...t/dp/B0055PD1H4

Edit: I misunderstood the question. Nevermind.

i like Ham
Dec 25, 2006

I'm a big fancy business man. Mind if I check you'r prostate?

I picked up a used GX 460 last March or April that is generally in exceptional shape. With that said, I occasionally get into it and feel like I get a faint smoke smell. My guess is that the original owner smoked or had a spouse that smoked, but they got it cleaned frequently enough that no visible evidence ever accumulated. Itís not the end of the world, but it is starting to bother me. Iím trying to decide if I want to just buy an ozone generator and be done, or if I should just buy a can of Ozium to see if that works. I donít really have any other need for an ozone generator, but have admittedly always wanted one. Price isnít really a concern, but it is another thing taking up space in the garage, so I suppose that plays a role. Looking at this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...bal1042-20&th=1

Also wanted to get thoughts on the little vortex cleaners to see if they are worth it. I had never heard of them until a few pages back and they seem interesting. Iím not the best at keeping my cars fully detailed these days, but I always buy used and normally rip out seats and do a full interior cleaning upon purchase. I already have a steamer and various other specialty brushes and cleaning products, so Iíve not run into much I COULDNíT get clean, but if this makes certain jobs materially easier Iíd be tempted to grab one.

everdave
Nov 14, 2005

For The Record...

i like Ham posted:

I picked up a used GX 460 last March or April that is generally in exceptional shape. With that said, I occasionally get into it and feel like I get a faint smoke smell. My guess is that the original owner smoked or had a spouse that smoked, but they got it cleaned frequently enough that no visible evidence ever accumulated. Itís not the end of the world, but it is starting to bother me. Iím trying to decide if I want to just buy an ozone generator and be done, or if I should just buy a can of Ozium to see if that works. I donít really have any other need for an ozone generator, but have admittedly always wanted one. Price isnít really a concern, but it is another thing taking up space in the garage, so I suppose that plays a role. Looking at this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...bal1042-20&th=1


I got this one a few months ago on a lightning deal for $50 (70 now) it has stellar reviews, replacement parts are available and I can vouch it WORKS. Highly recommend.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0795P2674/


Now let me ask a question. I import a lot of vehicles and I am trying to decide what to do on two Toyota vans. One is a camper van that has some decals I need removed, so far they are pretty easy to steam off so just kind of "how do you prefer to remove decals that have been on there 2+ decades). But they aren't super grimy or anything.

The next is called a Lite Ace and it has the factory graphics that are sun faded, peeling and need removing or replacing. If I remove there is just thick as can be adhesive residue that has turned rock hard underneath. How best to remove or is there a best way without sanding it and painting? The van may get some paint work OR I might just be better off selling as is. Here is a pic:

everdave fucked around with this message at 20:53 on Mar 2, 2020

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

EVERYWHERE
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!



everdave posted:

I got this one a few months ago on a lightning deal for $50 (70 now) it has stellar reviews, replacement parts are available and I can vouch it WORKS. Highly recommend.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0795P2674/


Now let me ask a question. I import a lot of vehicles and I am trying to decide what to do on two Toyota vans. One is a camper van that has some decals I need removed, so far they are pretty easy to steam off so just kind of "how do you prefer to remove decals that have been on there 2+ decades). But they aren't super grimy or anything.

The next is called a Lite Ace and it has the factory graphics that are sun faded, peeling and need removing or replacing. If I remove there is just thick as can be adhesive residue that has turned rock hard underneath. How best to remove or is there a best way without sanding it and painting? The van may get some paint work OR I might just be better off selling as is. Here is a pic:



Let me, sir, introduce you to this little bit of magic (The cheaper versions work too, but official recommendation is 3M):

https://www.amazon.com/Stripe-Wheel...EVRK7YGZAAYYDB3

Big Taint
Oct 19, 2003



Iíd probably start with a heat gun and plastic scraper. Looks like some of the graphics are on metal and some on painted plastic?

meatpimp posted:

Let me, sir, introduce you to this little bit of magic (The cheaper versions work too, but official recommendation is 3M):

https://www.amazon.com/Stripe-Wheel...EVRK7YGZAAYYDB3

I havenít tried that on anything bigger than a pinstripe, will it work well on larger stickers?

everdave
Nov 14, 2005

For The Record...

meatpimp posted:

Let me, sir, introduce you to this little bit of magic (The cheaper versions work too, but official recommendation is 3M):

https://www.amazon.com/Stripe-Wheel...EVRK7YGZAAYYDB3

I have seen your detailing work so I trust what you are saying but that seems too good to be true...

I mean I am ready to click order now. For real? And crusty 25 year old adhesive?

Let me know I will have that ordered before I leave work today

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

EVERYWHERE
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!



everdave posted:

I have seen your detailing work so I trust what you are saying but that seems too good to be true...

I mean I am ready to click order now. For real? And crusty 25 year old adhesive?

Let me know I will have that ordered before I leave work today

If it was me, I'd order one of the cheaper rubber adhesive removers with the mandrel molded in, plus some Rapid Remover and see which one works better. It's kinda uncharted territory, but I bet you'll find luck with one of the two, if not both.

Edit: The key to all types of attacks on this project: patience. Work slowly and let the product do the work.

meatpimp fucked around with this message at 21:47 on Mar 2, 2020

everdave
Nov 14, 2005

For The Record...

meatpimp posted:

If it was me, I'd order one of the cheaper rubber adhesive removers with the mandrel molded in, plus some Rapid Remover and see which one works better. It's kinda uncharted territory, but I bet you'll find luck with one of the two, if not both.

Edit: The key to all types of attacks on this project: patience. Work slowly and let the product do the work.

Will do!

KakerMix
Apr 8, 2004

8.2 M.P.G.


Top Cop

everdave posted:

I have seen your detailing work so I trust what you are saying but that seems too good to be true...

I mean I am ready to click order now. For real? And crusty 25 year old adhesive?

Let me know I will have that ordered before I leave work today

They work amazingly well yes. Your biggest issue will be the paint underneath is not going to be worn or faded as much as the paint that wasn't under the decal. I have done it on multiple imports, from small things like the side of the Prado that said 'EFI TURBO DIESEL' from 1991 to the entire decal package on the 93 Rugger we had.

everdave
Nov 14, 2005

For The Record...

KakerMix posted:

They work amazingly well yes. Your biggest issue will be the paint underneath is not going to be worn or faded as much as the paint that wasn't under the decal. I have done it on multiple imports, from small things like the side of the Prado that said 'EFI TURBO DIESEL' from 1991 to the entire decal package on the 93 Rugger we had.

Word, I'd love your input on whether to put this up for sale As-IS paint wise with decals, remove decals, or remove decals and have paint work done. This is a time capsule inside with the weird rubber floor covering installed and the seats encapsulated in plastic since new. There were a smoker but I have already removed the smell with ozone. Attaching a pic of the damaged paint.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

KakerMix
Apr 8, 2004

8.2 M.P.G.


Top Cop

everdave posted:

Word, I'd love your input on whether to put this up for sale As-IS paint wise with decals, remove decals, or remove decals and have paint work done. This is a time capsule inside with the weird rubber floor covering installed and the seats encapsulated in plastic since new. There were a smoker but I have already removed the smell with ozone. Attaching a pic of the damaged paint.



I would go over that with some compound and see if it comes off easily enough, or pay someone to do a real nice detail job on it. Is the paint itself missing or is there marks *on* the paint?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009


MOTRONIC FOR MODERATOR, MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN


Grimey Drawer

everdave posted:

Word, I'd love your input on whether to put this up for sale As-IS paint wise with decals, remove decals, or remove decals and have paint work done. This is a time capsule inside with the weird rubber floor covering installed and the seats encapsulated in plastic since new. There were a smoker but I have already removed the smell with ozone. Attaching a pic of the damaged paint.



Always hard to tell in pics, but that looks like a legit long and reasonably deep dent on top of the paint issues. Like a "way beyond PDR" kind of thing.

everdave
Nov 14, 2005

For The Record...

It would need some paint and body work to be perfect on the upper quarters but the dent isnít as bad as it looks.

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?

Done step one of prepping my new rims for when it's time for summer tyres (hopefully in a few weeks). Deep cleaned all 4 rims in 3 degrees weather. Not too bad, just boring. Going to let them dry til tomorrow before I do the final wipe down (not polishing DD rims that are brand new...) and putting some Gtechniq C5 on them. Going to be interesting to see how long the coating lasts. Says 2 years, and with proper prep work it'll probably last. Especially as I'm washing the car often enough not to have to use harsh wheel cleaners (just using Bilt Hamber Surfex HD, amazing APC).

Hopefully also worth the time when it comes to spending less time cleaning wheels in the future. OEM rims are so drat expensive that I don't want them to be ruined from lack of maintenance.

Edit: Put on now. Took a while so better last!


MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 06:01 on Mar 5, 2020

fknlo
Jul 6, 2009




Fun Shoe

I got a new rear bumper painted about a week and a half ago. How long until I can take the car to a touchless car wash? Does it need to be a month? It seems like you can hand wash before 30 days but that's not super realistic this time of year with my current living situation.

heffray
Sep 18, 2010


fknlo posted:

I got a new rear bumper painted about a week and a half ago. How long until I can take the car to a touchless car wash? Does it need to be a month? It seems like you can hand wash before 30 days but that's not super realistic this time of year with my current living situation.
How bad is your living / winter situation? I've been doing washes for a couple years with Optimum No Rinse (usually the Wash & Wax version unless I'm avoiding wax for some reason) at 1oz in 1-2gal water in a bucket, dip mitt in bucket, dry with a few microfiber towels, and it works well enough in a townhouse garage. A rinseless wet wash & dry should be reasonably easy to pull off in cold temps, without the very specific towel movements (and risk of very tiny amounts of water freezing) needed for a spray & wipe process.

I should probably do a polish + ceramic coat, but that's a lot of work at one time and just washing & applying Meguiar's spray wax as a drying aid is a good maintenance option.

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fknlo
Jul 6, 2009




Fun Shoe

heffray posted:

How bad is your living / winter situation? I've been doing washes for a couple years with Optimum No Rinse (usually the Wash & Wax version unless I'm avoiding wax for some reason) at 1oz in 1-2gal water in a bucket, dip mitt in bucket, dry with a few microfiber towels, and it works well enough in a townhouse garage. A rinseless wet wash & dry should be reasonably easy to pull off in cold temps, without the very specific towel movements (and risk of very tiny amounts of water freezing) needed for a spray & wipe process.

I should probably do a polish + ceramic coat, but that's a lot of work at one time and just washing & applying Meguiar's spray wax as a drying aid is a good maintenance option.

I wouldn't want to do a rinse-less wash without taking it to a car wash first. We only got a little bit of snow since I got it back, but the stuff that Colorado puts on the roads turns into this thick and gritty coating that covers the entire car.

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