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MomJeans420
Mar 19, 2007

Most of the gear, most of the time


I removed the tint on my car so I could actually see out the back, but the adhesive is still on there. There are four normal pieces of glass, but the third row windows and the rear window have heating elements in them for defrosting. What's the safest way to remove the adhesive on these windows? I have bug and tar remover and IPA, I tried my window cleaner on it but it didn't do anything. Some sites recommended a plastic razor, but I'm not going to use that on the windows with heating elements.

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meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

EVERYWHERE
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!



MomJeans420 posted:

I removed the tint on my car so I could actually see out the back, but the adhesive is still on there. There are four normal pieces of glass, but the third row windows and the rear window have heating elements in them for defrosting. What's the safest way to remove the adhesive on these windows? I have bug and tar remover and IPA, I tried my window cleaner on it but it didn't do anything. Some sites recommended a plastic razor, but I'm not going to use that on the windows with heating elements.

I don't know what will work, but I'll say "don't use steam." I tried that on the Passat I got back in October and stripped the traces right off the window.

RIP Paul Walker
Feb 26, 2004



Tint glue removal: Degreaser from the dollar store. I forget which one, but one of them worked a treat for me. Theyre probably all the same, so I doubt it matters which one. The internet should provide more details, its where I got the idea.

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.


I find WD40 is quite good at softening/disolving old residue.

Scott808
Jul 11, 2001


Regular Windex is what I used. The ammonia in it eats up the tint adhesive. A plastic razor/scraper will probably be helpful.

MomJeans420
Mar 19, 2007

Most of the gear, most of the time


I tried a couple of things yesterday but nothing seemed amazing. I think my window cleaner is the kind without ammonia, so I need to track down some of the good poo poo and give it a shot. I tried 99% rubbing alcohol, WD-40, and bug and tar remover, neither one worked great by themselves. What did seem to work was first soaking it in the 99% alcohol, which dissolves it but then just kind of smears over the window, then spraying either WD-40 or bug and tar remover over that, and wiping it up.

I'll give the real Windex a shot later today.

RIP Paul Walker
Feb 26, 2004



MomJeans420 posted:

I tried a couple of things yesterday but nothing seemed amazing. I think my window cleaner is the kind without ammonia, so I need to track down some of the good poo poo and give it a shot. I tried 99% rubbing alcohol, WD-40, and bug and tar remover, neither one worked great by themselves. What did seem to work was first soaking it in the 99% alcohol, which dissolves it but then just kind of smears over the window, then spraying either WD-40 or bug and tar remover over that, and wiping it up.

I'll give the real Windex a shot later today.

Seriously, dollar store degreaser. Trust me.

MomJeans420
Mar 19, 2007

Most of the gear, most of the time


I actually just parked in front a dollar store yesterday to get tacos, looks like I'm getting more tacos today.

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I Want To Believe.


Whatever you use, soaking it into some paper towel and using that as a poultice on the residue for a while is a good approach.

Scott808
Jul 11, 2001


This was more than 15 years ago, so the memory is kind of fuzzy, but I think what worked for me was getting a single edge razor and (very carefully) getting a slit going where you can get the Windex (or whatever solvent) between the film and the window. Once it got started it got way easier. As you peel the tint up, spray at the line where the tint meets the window. Spray more as needed - the difficulty of the tint coming up changes and you'll probably feel it.

azflyboy
Nov 9, 2005


What's the best way to smooth out touch up paint?

I'm finding mixed opinions online, but it sounds like my best bet is to use 2-3000 grit sandpaper to wet sand it and then and polishing compound to get more of a gloss look to it. The base paint is a dark blue metallic, so I realize it'll never match completely, but I'm just trying to make the repainted area (it was a scratch down to primer before) look a little less obvious.

Scott808
Jul 11, 2001


azflyboy posted:

What's the best way to smooth out touch up paint?

I'm finding mixed opinions online, but it sounds like my best bet is to use 2-3000 grit sandpaper to wet sand it and then and polishing compound to get more of a gloss look to it. The base paint is a dark blue metallic, so I realize it'll never match completely, but I'm just trying to make the repainted area (it was a scratch down to primer before) look a little less obvious.

https://www.autogeekonline.net/foru...-procedure.html

azflyboy
Nov 9, 2005


Thanks!

I wet sanded the area with 2000 grit, and then went over it with Meguiar's ultimate compound. In direct lighting, you can see there was some paint work done (the scratch was down to primer and ran the entire width of the hood, so I'm not surprised), but the sanding and polishing smoothed the touch up paint significantly, and it looks way better than it did before.

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?

I bought one of those conversion kits that gets rid of the stock lance and replaces it with a small "hand gun" type of sprayer with a swivel action built in.
This is the one I got:
https://www.in2detailing.co.uk/prod...r190958560.html

What a massive difference. So much nicer and easier to use, much easier to get into the wheel wells and being able to pressure spray something that you are holding in the other hand is great. If you've been on the fence, just get one.

MomJeans420
Mar 19, 2007

Most of the gear, most of the time


Auto Geek has a 25% off coupon for today only - FOOL2020

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

EVERYWHERE
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!



MomJeans420 posted:

Auto Geek has a 25% off coupon for today only - FOOL2020

Nice, thanks. I was able to grab https://www.autogeek.net/meguiars-m...sealant-16.html for $31 after shipping, which is about the lowest right now. I'm anxious to see how it does.

everdave
Nov 14, 2005

For The Record...

I started using one of those decal removal wheels. Not as magical as I was hoping. Will get a pic later...

Here are pics



everdave fucked around with this message at 23:35 on Apr 1, 2020

a mysterious cloak
Apr 5, 2003

Leave me alone, dad, I'm with my friends!


Had my GTI just over 2 years, finish was flawless until some douche bag idiot gave me a door ding on the driver's side this week. If I could track them down I would

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

EVERYWHERE
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!



everdave posted:

I started using one of those decal removal wheels. Not as magical as I was hoping. Will get a pic later...

Here are pics





Top one looks okay, looks like you are getting down to the clearcoat, but not going through it. Just the way you want. Obviously, there's some adhesive residue and, from what I've found, you need to find a balance of temperature (built up with friction), pressure and movement... all without going through the clear. It's tough, but once you get the hang of it, it works. Also, try Goo Gone on the adhesive and see if that'll remove it once you get to that stage. It would make a holy hell of a mess, with stickiness everywhere, but again... no pain, no gain.


a mysterious cloak posted:

Had my GTI just over 2 years, finish was flawless until some douche bag idiot gave me a door ding on the driver's side this week. If I could track them down I would

I have absolutely had those feelings. Age tempered it. To the point that some numbfuck hit my Passat in January and I'm just now starting to take a look at what will buff out and such. Don't worry, there's always PDR if you really want it restored to pristine... but I've found it's better to have some dings... that way your psyche is not ate up with maintaining perfection.

everdave
Nov 14, 2005

For The Record...

meatpimp posted:

Top one looks okay, looks like you are getting down to the clearcoat, but not going through it. Just the way you want. Obviously, there's some adhesive residue and, from what I've found, you need to find a balance of temperature (built up with friction), pressure and movement... all without going through the clear. It's tough, but once you get the hang of it, it works. Also, try Goo Gone on the adhesive and see if that'll remove it once you get to that stage. It would make a holy hell of a mess, with stickiness everywhere, but again... no pain, no gain.


Yeah at least it is not burning through paint. I brought some goo gone home from work and it just didn't seem to do much of anything. And my god the amount of dust from the remover disc is insane. I tried some citrus degreaser in my workshop. Man I just don't know this could be days of work from the method i am using now. Beyond a few hours it is not going to be cost effective for me to do this myself.

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!

MomJeans420 posted:

Auto Geek has a 25% off coupon for today only - FOOL2020


meatpimp posted:

Nice, thanks. I was able to grab https://www.autogeek.net/meguiars-m...sealant-16.html for $31 after shipping, which is about the lowest right now. I'm anxious to see how it does.

With the shelter-in-place thing I hunkered down and did a full detail of my car. Although, I don't have D/A or any mechanical polishing tools, I could at least, do a fairly good job of hand washing, claybarring, a rudimentary polish, along with patching some paint chips with Dr. Colorchip. Then I went ahead and spent way too much money at Autogeek with the above coupon and just finished putting two coats of this M27 hybrid ceramic sealant on my car. The results seem pretty good, although I haven't taken the car of the garage in a while and my lighting in the garage is garbage.

I wonder if I could've gotten away with trying my hand at applying an actual ceramic coating. The car has some swirl marks and whatever else, but I don't really care-- it will mostly live outside because I can't fit two cars in the garage, and my fiance has a much newer TTS that gets the garage spot. So if a true ceramic coat would make it much easier to keep clean and wash off pollen, maybe it would've been worth the effort.

I think this is after applying the first coat:


This is 24 hours after the first application and just wiping off the second coat. It's hard to photograph, but the Mazda metallic black mica is pretty nice when super clean:


After this second coat cures, I'm going to wash and claybar the TTS and then do some touch up paint on some rock chips on the hood and put this sealant on it, too.

blk
Dec 19, 2009


The black interior of Miata (w leather seats) is super faded. What can I use to darken it up and add some lustre without making it look shiny and gross?

wallaka
Jun 8, 2010

Least it wasn't a fucking red shell


blk posted:

The black interior of Miata (w leather seats) is super faded. What can I use to darken it up and add some lustre without making it look shiny and gross?

Something super faded or cracked needs Leatherique if you have a couple days to use it.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

EVERYWHERE
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!



MetaJew posted:

With the shelter-in-place thing I hunkered down and did a full detail of my car. Although, I don't have D/A or any mechanical polishing tools, I could at least, do a fairly good job of hand washing, claybarring, a rudimentary polish, along with patching some paint chips with Dr. Colorchip. Then I went ahead and spent way too much money at Autogeek with the above coupon and just finished putting two coats of this M27 hybrid ceramic sealant on my car. The results seem pretty good, although I haven't taken the car of the garage in a while and my lighting in the garage is garbage.

I wonder if I could've gotten away with trying my hand at applying an actual ceramic coating. The car has some swirl marks and whatever else, but I don't really care-- it will mostly live outside because I can't fit two cars in the garage, and my fiance has a much newer TTS that gets the garage spot. So if a true ceramic coat would make it much easier to keep clean and wash off pollen, maybe it would've been worth the effort.

I think this is after applying the first coat:


This is 24 hours after the first application and just wiping off the second coat. It's hard to photograph, but the Mazda metallic black mica is pretty nice when super clean:


After this second coat cures, I'm going to wash and claybar the TTS and then do some touch up paint on some rock chips on the hood and put this sealant on it, too.

Looks good. I posted this in my thread about M27:

Pictures today. I finally started getting this paint cleaned up. Process: wipe down, synthetic clay, Chemical Guys Pro Polish, alcohol wipe down... normal so far. Next step is a new one -- Meguiars M27 Pro Hybrid Ceramic Sealer. Wow. Great gloss, fantastic smoothness. I'm impressed so far, let's see how it lasts.

Reflection shot (this is the trunk lid reflecting the roof and garage):


Trunk shot:

opengl128
Sep 16, 2010




Looks great, and kind of crazy I instantly recognized it as a MS3 just from those body lines.

Loved my metro gray mica in the sun too:

Arson Daily
Aug 11, 2003

FR8 4 LYFE

Fun Shoe

I used an iron decon for the first time today. Jesus that stuff smells terrible! Also used megs professional sealant 2.0 and am really impressed how easy that stuff is to work with. Had my car washed, clayed, polished and sealed in less than 2.5 hours.

Edit: ofc I do all that and now it's raining and my car is outside

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!

opengl128 posted:

Looks great, and kind of crazy I instantly recognized it as a MS3 just from those body lines.

Loved my metro gray mica in the sun too:



I sort of wish I was able to find a metro gray MS3, simply because keeping a black car clean is impossible.



Arson Daily posted:

I used an iron decon for the first time today. Jesus that stuff smells terrible! Also used megs professional sealant 2.0 and am really impressed how easy that stuff is to work with. Had my car washed, clayed, polished and sealed in less than 2.5 hours.

Edit: ofc I do all that and now it's raining and my car is outside

Yeah iron decon smells loving horrible. I wear my my N95/VOC respirator when I use that stuff, now.

dphi
Jul 9, 2001


RIP Paul Walker posted:

Tint glue removal: Degreaser from the dollar store. I forget which one, but one of them worked a treat for me. Theyre probably all the same, so I doubt it matters which one. The internet should provide more details, its where I got the idea.

Fabuloso? I know that's what a lot of people swear by for engine cleaning.

FilthyImp
Sep 30, 2002

Nope



MetaJew posted:

two coats of this M27 hybrid ceramic sealant
Ok, so with all the free time I've washed, claybarred and waxed the cars. Is the hybrid ceramic all its cracked up to be??

Dave Inc.
Nov 26, 2007
Let's have a drink!

I have white oxidation on my engine's aluminum bits, what do I do?

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

EVERYWHERE
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!



Dave Inc. posted:

I have white oxidation on my engine's aluminum bits, what do I do?

Welcome them and enjoy them. Short of polishing, that oxidation will be there.

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!

FilthyImp posted:

Ok, so with all the free time I've washed, claybarred and waxed the cars. Is the hybrid ceramic all its cracked up to be??

My shoulder hurts from excessive applications of elbow grease, so I only use easy-to-apply sealants anymore. Previously I used this stuff: https://www.autogeek.net/ultima-paint-guard-plus.html

Application of the M27 is very similar, a few dabs on a microfibre applicator pad, wipe it on, let it sit for a few minutes, and then wipe off. It has some sort of self-leveling component and doesn't really haze over, so removing any excess sealant isn't a big deal. The bottle says it cures over 24 hours and you can apply it in direct sunlight.

I haven't driven in the rain, but it does feel extremely slick under my hand. For kicks I put it on my chipped/pitted windshield to see how it handles the rain, at some point. Bug guts wiped off extremely easily.

I plan on keeping the MS3 at least until I can buy an EV truck of some sort, so that will be another few years it seems. I'm probably going to replace the windshield, and if I do that I want to try a glass ceramic sealant like the Gtechniq product line.

Dave Inc.
Nov 26, 2007
Let's have a drink!

meatpimp posted:

Welcome them and enjoy them. Short of polishing, that oxidation will be there.

But it's ugly and makes me feel bad. There are also parts where it seemed to blossom to a silly degree, not just that faint layer on top but like a buildup of crud. My engine is exposed to rain so I really should have bought a cover sooner when we moved to a place without a garage (temporarily...one and a half year's later), but now it is what it is.

I'm going to pull it when we finally move and do a bit of work in addition to respraying the car, I'd just like for it to not suck so badly in the meantime.

taqueso
Mar 8, 2004









Fun Shoe

polishing it probably wouldn't be too bad, but then you'll have to polish everything to match

Evil SpongeBob
Dec 1, 2005

Not the other one, couldn't stand the other one. Nope nope nope. Here, enjoy this bird.

I have water spots. I have clay bars and vinegar/tap water. I have to clay bar anyway since I'm going to wax polish.

Would it hurt to try vinegar and tap water first? Everything I read says use distilled. I could just try clay bar first to see if that does anything.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

like and subscribe for more passive-aggressive roadway bullshit adventure in Chigcao

It won't help, because tap water is going to cause water spots. The distilled water thing works because there isn't a bunch of crap dissolved in the water.

Evil SpongeBob
Dec 1, 2005

Not the other one, couldn't stand the other one. Nope nope nope. Here, enjoy this bird.

Yeah, kinda what I was thinking. I'll clay bar a spot and see if that works since I have it on hand.

If not, I can get water spot remover from Amazon or detailing.com.

nitsuga
Dec 31, 2006

It's the only way to live.

Id like to clean up the engine bay on my 2017 Golf. Any precautions I should take outside of disconnecting the battery? I plan on doing something like this:

1. Spray Zep degreaser
2. Scrub with a brush
3. Rinse with light water pressure
4. Blow water out of the crevices
5. Maybe hit the plastic bits with a protectant

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?

Evil SpongeBob posted:

I have water spots. I have clay bars and vinegar/tap water. I have to clay bar anyway since I'm going to wax polish.

Would it hurt to try vinegar and tap water first? Everything I read says use distilled. I could just try clay bar first to see if that does anything.


https://www.slimsdetailing.co.uk/ko...le-remover.html

Is very popular and works well. Don't know if you can get it in the US though.

nitsuga posted:

Id like to clean up the engine bay on my 2017 Golf. Any precautions I should take outside of disconnecting the battery? I plan on doing something like this:

1. Spray Zep degreaser
2. Scrub with a brush
3. Rinse with light water pressure
4. Blow water out of the crevices
5. Maybe hit the plastic bits with a protectant

When it comes to the electrical parts there are two schools of thought - the super paranoid that say that water should never be sprayed in the engine bay and the "it's fine" school. Some do inbetween and cover up the alternator. I cleaned my engine bay with high pressure but didn't spray on electrical parts for more than a split second to rinse off, and the high pressure washer nozzle I have doesn't produce much pressure. Didn't disconnect battery.
Zep degreaser sounds like some heavy duty household degreaser. Might be a bit harsh? A good automotive all purpose cleaner might be safer. When it comes to protecting, something like Carpro Pearl is pretty nice as you can spray it one and walk away.

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nitsuga
Dec 31, 2006

It's the only way to live.

Would plain old soap and water be alright? I can pick something else up, but I wonder if I should try that first. Otherwise, maybe this Sonax cleaner followed by 303?

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