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MomJeans420
Mar 19, 2007

Most of the gear, most of the time


MrOnBicycle posted:

Sounds like it could be compound haze that you need to polish out.

Yeah that must be it, I wonder if it's related to ultimate compound supposedly starting rougher and breaking down into finer polish as you continue to polish it. I may not have hit the same area enough to break it down when I was hitting the quarter panels.

I ordered pads last week from autogeek so I didn't have to buy them from amazon, they list everything as same day shipping but it actually shipped out a day later, to arrive in a week so I still don't have them. Trying to get all my polishing done before the summer heat kicks in, but it looks like the pads will arrive just in time for nice and hot weather, wonderful.

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Residency Evil
Jul 28, 2003

4/5 godo BRAINS


MrOnBicycle posted:

If you don't care about polishing the car before, you can just clean the car properly and apply the ceramic coating. The main cost of applying the coatings is the hours it takes to polish. There are also "light versions" like Carpro Cquartz Lite that won't last as long, but also aren't something that will need polishing to get off. The AliExpress stuff is super cheap and works fine. I personally won't be using it as I don't think the name brands are that much more expensive and I know what I'm getting.

Any reasons to go with one brand name over the other?

As far as prep goes, I was going to clay it before. Paint was professionally corrected earlier this year and Iím not going to correct it myself.

bull3964
Nov 18, 2000

DO YOU HEAR THAT? THAT'S THE SOUND OF ME PATTING MYSELF ON THE BACK.




I would advise against claying if you already had it professionally corrected earlier this year. There's way too much of a chance to introduce marring and undoing the effort of the correction. Use something like Carpro Rest to really cut the road film and maybe do an iron decon, but I would skip claying unless the paint seems rough.

If you had it professionally corrected, is there already a sealant on it already? I can't imagine a place would do that and not put some sort of sealant on the car. If so, that could be a significant barrier in applying a ceramic coating properly.

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?

Residency Evil posted:

Any reasons to go with one brand name over the other?

As far as prep goes, I was going to clay it before. Paint was professionally corrected earlier this year and Iím not going to correct it myself.

As above. I don't think you need claying if the car was professionally corrected earlier this year and you've washed it regularly since.
When it comes to brand names I'm sticking with what independant testers have experience as well as ease of use etc. Can't really go wrong with Carpro, Gtechnic, Kamikaze etc. I chose Carpro since I can easily get hold of all their products without high shipping costs, it's easy to apply and hard to gently caress up and I know that their coating is one of the best while not being insanely expensive.

FilthyImp
Sep 30, 2002

Nope



MetaJew posted:

Application of the M27 is very similar, a few dabs on a microfibre applicator pad, wipe it on, let it sit for a few minutes, and then wipe off. It has some sort of self-leveling component and doesn't really haze over, so removing any excess sealant isn't a big deal. The bottle says it cures over 24 hours and you can apply it in direct sunlight.
This was forever ago but thanks. With all the Coronatime I decided to clay bar and clear our cars. I have a Chevy with black sparkle effect paint and I would live to get rid of the swirls before applying, but I don't think I trust myself to throw a pad and compound on my orbital sander. Car's 8 years old so it could probably do with some paint correction though.

I should get the M27 by the end of the week so I'm fairly excited to see it in action.

FilthyImp fucked around with this message at 07:49 on May 20, 2020

Residency Evil
Jul 28, 2003

4/5 godo BRAINS


bull3964 posted:

I would advise against claying if you already had it professionally corrected earlier this year. There's way too much of a chance to introduce marring and undoing the effort of the correction. Use something like Carpro Rest to really cut the road film and maybe do an iron decon, but I would skip claying unless the paint seems rough.

If you had it professionally corrected, is there already a sealant on it already? I can't imagine a place would do that and not put some sort of sealant on the car. If so, that could be a significant barrier in applying a ceramic coating properly.

Thank you for this. Yeah, that makes a lot of sense. I'm not sure about the sealant, although I imagine there might be. Honestly the paint looks fantastic after a simple wash. I was thinking of getting the ceramic coating to make it even easier, but it sounds like it might be worth holding off.

MomJeans420
Mar 19, 2007

Most of the gear, most of the time


With the disclaimer that I haven't used it yet, I bought this ceramic coating and it must have been because this thread recommended it. The only problem I had is I bought it, waited almost a year to use it, and it had turned into an unusable jelly. As soon as I finish polishing my wife's car I'll be trying it out and posting results.

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!

FilthyImp posted:

This was forever ago but thanks. With all the Coronatime I decided to clay bar and clear our cars. I have a Chevy with black sparkle effect paint and I would live to get rid of the swirls before applying, but I don't think I trust myself to throw a pad and compound on my orbital sander. Car's 8 years old so it could probably do with some paint correction though.

I should get the M27 by the end of the week so I'm fairly excited to see it in action.

I hope it holds up. I applied it to both my fiance's white 2016 TTS and my metallic black 2009 MS3. Unfortunately between a too small two car garage, some junk, a motorcycle trailer and my motorcycle I can't fit both cars in the garage so my MS3 gets parked outside. Despite having a few weeks of dust and dirt the paint still beaded water in the rain..I need to do a hand wash and see how it holds up.

It seems like it has done mostly a good job after I applied it to the windshield, too so that's really neat.

I bought some Carpro eraser to prep her windshield for when the Gtechniq G1/g2 windshield coatings arrives. Hopefully that goes well.

TheGoatTrick
Aug 1, 2002

Semi-aquatic personification of unstoppable douchery


MomJeans420 posted:

With the disclaimer that I haven't used it yet, I bought this ceramic coating and it must have been because this thread recommended it. The only problem I had is I bought it, waited almost a year to use it, and it had turned into an unusable jelly.
I remember hearing that someone else had this problem, and McKee's sent them a replacement.

MomJeans420
Mar 19, 2007

Most of the gear, most of the time


I'll have to remember that, I just checked my order history and it's been 8 months since I ordered my replacement bottle of McKees... The problem with needing to get a black car perfect before you apply it.

a mysterious cloak
Apr 5, 2003

Leave me alone, dad, I'm with my friends!


MrOnBicycle posted:

Some paint surface prep should remove it easily. I think it might be UK/Euro only, but I have used Upol system 20 degreaser to prep for putting on coatings etc. Works well and is very well regarded in the UK detailing community.

Looks like it's UK only, unfortunately.

Any other recommendations?

taqueso
Mar 8, 2004









Fun Shoe

What kind of abrasive do I want to clean up my headlight housings? Looks like the PO tried to do it and gave up part way or something. I have Meguiar's 105 compound, Menzerna 2500 and 3500 compounds, and Abralon 1000 and 2000 sanding pads. Is any of that appropriate? Planning to shoot it with some 2k urethane clear after.

Seems like 1000 grit is an ok start from some googling

taqueso fucked around with this message at 21:48 on May 21, 2020

opengl128
Sep 16, 2010



taqueso posted:

Looks like the PO tried to do it and gave up part way or something.

That's almost definitely just from sun damage. It's going to fade the top portion first. I've seen that before.

Arson Daily
Aug 11, 2003

FR8 4 LYFE

Fun Shoe

I used this:

And a lake white pad to get a similar amount of hazing on my wife's xc90 lenses to this:

taqueso
Mar 8, 2004









Fun Shoe

Got half a bottle of rainx brand PlastX from family and gave it a go. It worked somewhat but it has very little bite and I couldn't get the job done. It still has haze in the worst areas but it is a surprisingly big improvement already. I can tell the difference between streetlights and my headlights now.

The photo actually looks worse than real life, I was worried if I would be able to capture the remaining haze in a picture but no problems there.

I'm trying to decide if I want to:
a) sand it to like 400/600 and then clearcoat, sand, more clear; which should leave me with a crystal clear finish if I understand the painting stuff I've read. My worry on this option is that I'm wrong and I might have to sand off the clearcoat.
or
b) get more plastic polish and keep on that track. My worries are that if I get the surface fully polished it won't have any tooth for the clear to stick to; and if I don't clearcoat, it will yellow quickly.

taqueso fucked around with this message at 16:26 on May 22, 2020

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

A garden full of trees, and a pocket full of cheese.

I'd use something a lot higher than 600 grit.

taqueso
Mar 8, 2004









Fun Shoe

My thinking on 400/600 is based on car paint people saying paint sticks to those grits really well and fills in the sanding marks but I am very much a paint newb.

e: when I google trying to find an example of someone putting clear on headlights over a low grit sand, I can only find people sanding to like 2000/2500 so I'm probably totally wrong

taqueso fucked around with this message at 16:52 on May 22, 2020

Bajaha
Apr 1, 2011

BajaHAHAHA.



I did both methods. In my thread I had someone more experienced point out that at 2000+ grit the clear won't have a good surface to bite into so I redid them with 600 and it turned out looking the same while likely lasting much longer.

Can't find pictures of the ones I redid twice but I did these after using 600 as the final step and some cheap clear coat and they turned out well.



wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

A garden full of trees, and a pocket full of cheese.

Got ya, I figured the 2000+ grit would be for polishing, thinking that 600 would leave marks too big to polish out, but if you're putting clear over them, then 600 is probably sufficient.

KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD
Jul 7, 2012



Fallen Rib

Jesus loving christ there are so many interior detailing products. All I want is a good all purpose cleaner.

Meguiar's has the All Purpose Cleaner mentioned in the OP, but they also have this Ultimate Interior Detailer, and a few other sprays.

I hate the "greasy" crap that cheap detailers use inside my car. I really just want to get it clean and reasonably protected. What's the best option here?

Also, would love a recommendation for a leather cleaner that won't darken gray seats. Have had that issue with some of the hardware store wipes.

taqueso
Mar 8, 2004









Fun Shoe

Cool, thanks for the confidence boost for 600 grit. I should be able to do it tonight.

taqueso
Mar 8, 2004









Fun Shoe

KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:

Jesus loving christ there are so many interior detailing products. All I want is a good all purpose cleaner.

Meguiar's has the All Purpose Cleaner mentioned in the OP, but they also have this Ultimate Interior Detailer, and a few other sprays.

I hate the "greasy" crap that cheap detailers use inside my car. I really just want to get it clean and reasonably protected. What's the best option here?

Also, would love a recommendation for a leather cleaner that won't darken gray seats. Have had that issue with some of the hardware store wipes.

I got meguiars natural shine protectant as a non greasy armorall replacement and I like it. Does what it says. It looks clean not greasy shiny. Use any all purpose cleaner before it for the clean part.

For leather I have meguiars cleaner and meguiars conditioner and they are meh. I switched to leather stuff I had for boots and I like that more. Can't remember what I used off the top of my head. Probably saphir

taqueso fucked around with this message at 19:19 on May 22, 2020

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

EVERYWHERE
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!



KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:

Jesus loving christ there are so many interior detailing products. All I want is a good all purpose cleaner.

Meguiar's has the All Purpose Cleaner mentioned in the OP, but they also have this Ultimate Interior Detailer, and a few other sprays.

I hate the "greasy" crap that cheap detailers use inside my car. I really just want to get it clean and reasonably protected. What's the best option here?

Also, would love a recommendation for a leather cleaner that won't darken gray seats. Have had that issue with some of the hardware store wipes.

I have access to all of Zymol's product. I use their vinyl and leather cleaners and conditioners and it's one of their products that I really recommend. Especially the leather stuff. Smells like bananas and I've never had a leather problem after using it on at least a dozen different cars over the years.

A lot of their other products are "meh," but the leather stuff is legit.

opengl128
Sep 16, 2010



KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:

Jesus loving christ there are so many interior detailing products. All I want is a good all purpose cleaner.

Meguiar's has the All Purpose Cleaner mentioned in the OP, but they also have this Ultimate Interior Detailer, and a few other sprays.

I hate the "greasy" crap that cheap detailers use inside my car. I really just want to get it clean and reasonably protected. What's the best option here?

Also, would love a recommendation for a leather cleaner that won't darken gray seats. Have had that issue with some of the hardware store wipes.

I use the one you linked and I'm really happy with it. Zero greasy residue, smells nice.

taqueso
Mar 8, 2004









Fun Shoe

Tried sanding tonight, my plan was to try 320 or 220 and go up. tbh I was a little scared of damaging the housings by going ham. But I'm going to get something coarser and start again tomorrow, I didn't clear the worst of the oxidized layer yet. I used some norton stick-and-sand discs from menards stuck to a spent abralon pad and they worked well. Made a great creamy lather.

taqueso
Mar 8, 2004









Fun Shoe

Unrelated to headlights, anyone have opinions on high temperature paint for calipers?

DoubleT2172
Sep 24, 2007


What's recommended to clean between body panels? Basically every panel in my car is full of black dirt that when it rains spread over the panels, not sure if there is a better tool than just detailing spray and shoving a microfiber cloth in. I've included a pic to show a good example
https://imgur.com/x9jvO4B

Bape Culture
Sep 13, 2006


Detailing brushes and clay

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

EVERYWHERE
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!



Bape Culture posted:

Detailing brushes and clay

And/or Simple Green and q-tips.

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?

Jesus christ I had forgotten what a pig washing, polishing and putting on a ceramic coating is. Spent 12 hours today doing it, with an 1Ĺ break total for dinner and lunch. This is a new car as well, so minimal scratched (but already more stone chips than I'd like on a 4 month old car...).

My favorite thing with cermaic coatings is putting them on black trim as it looks amazing.

I love clean cars, but I loving hate getting there. Hopefully the coating will last and make it quicker to wash it.

bull3964
Nov 18, 2000

DO YOU HEAR THAT? THAT'S THE SOUND OF ME PATTING MYSELF ON THE BACK.




I mean, I don't know how any coating can make a car quicker to wash. You just, uh, wash it.

It will make it quicker to dry though!

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter


bull3964 posted:

I mean, I don't know how any coating can make a car quicker to wash. You just, uh, wash it.

It will make it quicker to dry though!

The dream is that the dirt doesn't stick and you can rinse it off.

opengl128
Sep 16, 2010



DoubleT2172 posted:

What's recommended to clean between body panels? Basically every panel in my car is full of black dirt that when it rains spread over the panels, not sure if there is a better tool than just detailing spray and shoving a microfiber cloth in. I've included a pic to show a good example
https://imgur.com/x9jvO4B

A pressure washer really helps with those nooks and crannies.

bull3964
Nov 18, 2000

DO YOU HEAR THAT? THAT'S THE SOUND OF ME PATTING MYSELF ON THE BACK.




StormDrain posted:

The dream is that the dirt doesn't stick and you can rinse it off.



Anyone that tells you that's the case with ceramic coating is lying.

It certainly does rinse easier than ever before and it does get cleaner after that rinse, but it's not CLEAN. There's still road film. It's not teflon.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter


bull3964 posted:

Anyone that tells you that's the case with ceramic coating is lying.

It certainly does rinse easier than ever before and it does get cleaner after that rinse, but it's not CLEAN. There's still road film. It's not teflon.

Yeah I didn't think that, but it is the dream.

everdave
Nov 14, 2005

For The Record...

I started using cheap dollar store/HF/amazon brushes and drill brush attachments and just wow. Cleaning a filthy work truck interior today (my kei bucket truck) dollar tree orange degreaser, handheld brushes and a drill attachment just wow and for a few dollars to save hours of elbow grease.

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?

bull3964 posted:

I mean, I don't know how any coating can make a car quicker to wash. You just, uh, wash it.

It will make it quicker to dry though!

Well it makes it quicker if there is less dirt that builds up. Might not need as much/as long to pre-rinse / use pre-contact wash products etc. My car is already well maintained so when it comes to the contact wash stage, the mitt and the water hardly dirties. I count drying as parts of the whole car wash, so that's where I'll save time as well if I remember how the last coating I had on another car was.

taqueso
Mar 8, 2004









Fun Shoe

My mom backed her CRV into a parked trailer and punched a 2" x 1/8" hole through the plastic panel on the bottom of the hatch. Is there a plasticizer / flexibility-enhancer type filler for epoxy or bondo that I should use when closing up the hole? Or does it not matter?

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

EVERYWHERE
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!



taqueso posted:

My mom backed her CRV into a parked trailer and punched a 2" x 1/8" hole through the plastic panel on the bottom of the hatch. Is there a plasticizer / flexibility-enhancer type filler for epoxy or bondo that I should use when closing up the hole? Or does it not matter?

Depending on what's left, you could remove the bumper, put the piece back in and plastic weld it in place from the back side, then go from there. There's no filler that I know of that will adhere well enough and still flex.

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taqueso
Mar 8, 2004









Fun Shoe

Here's what it looks like, i think the only positive is that the actual hole isn't very tall

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