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apatite
Dec 2, 2006

Got yer back, Jack



kastein posted:

it's going to be some pretty poo poo no matter what happens.

I get the feeling that for both of us that is most often the case

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Spermy Smurf
Jul 2, 2004


kastein posted:


I still haven't figured out how I'm getting it in the house, but it's going to be some pretty poo poo no matter what happens.

You regularly knock walls, ceilings, and floors out of your house. I am sure you will think of something...

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.


Apparently I was really tired and misposted this in my AI thread last night.

Today I fixed the pipes to the washing machine supply valves, and added a set of shutoff valves for that section of the system that should have had a shutoff in the first place. Decided to do a series of howto videos on sweating copper since I needed to do the plumbing either way.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MHmD_-oaMsU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0hidaOsk2Lo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YNpcag1rY-o

Result:

click for big and blurry instead of small and blurry!

Sir Cornelius
Oct 30, 2011


kastein posted:

I still haven't figured out how I'm getting it in the house, but it's going to be some pretty poo poo no matter what happens.

Whatever you do, you might wan't to consider not using rope and pulleys attached to the house.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.


I haven't even gotten the drat mill inside yet and a friend of a friend saw the pictures of it hanging from a crane on my facebook and decided he wants to give me his lathe. I'm not sure how this happens to me, but I'm certainly not complaining.

Just have to pick it up... where have I heard this before?

It is reportedly "made in the 30s or 40s or so, for metal working, working area around 2 feet long, comes with motors and tooling and stuff, weighs 200-300lbs" which is somewhat contradictory. I'm almost hoping the weight is the part that's wrong. As long as it can swing something ~5" radius and grab material up to 3.125" diameter, I will be happier than a pig in poo poo. Hell, I will be either way, that would just be the icing on the cake.

apatite
Dec 2, 2006

Got yer back, Jack



kastein posted:

I haven't even gotten the drat mill inside yet and a friend of a friend saw the pictures of it hanging from a crane on my facebook and decided he wants to give me his lathe. I'm not sure how this happens to me, but I'm certainly not complaining.

Just have to pick it up... where have I heard this before?

It is reportedly "made in the 30s or 40s or so, for metal working, working area around 2 feet long, comes with motors and tooling and stuff, weighs 200-300lbs" which is somewhat contradictory. I'm almost hoping the weight is the part that's wrong. As long as it can swing something ~5" radius and grab material up to 3.125" diameter, I will be happier than a pig in poo poo. Hell, I will be either way, that would just be the icing on the cake.



You've got all the luck I'll trade you a free snowmobile for your free lathe+mill !!!

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011


apatite posted:



You've got all the luck I'll trade you a free snowmobile for your free lathe+mill !!!

B-but you take awesome pictures with the snowmobile...

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.


You can have my free lathe when you pry it from my cold dead hands!

I have it now, it's in the back of the jeep waiting for me to feel like hauling 300lbs of steel inside. It's a South Bend and has threading and autofeed.

I should probably start thinking about pouring a pad in the corner of the basement sooner rather than later.

I always wanted to have a machine shop in my basement but I never saw it happening this cheaply or quickly, goddamn.

Liquid Communism
Mar 9, 2004


Out here, everything hurts.




kastein posted:

You can have my free lathe when you pry it from my cold dead hands!

I have it now, it's in the back of the jeep waiting for me to feel like hauling 300lbs of steel inside. It's a South Bend and has threading and autofeed.

I should probably start thinking about pouring a pad in the corner of the basement sooner rather than later.

I always wanted to have a machine shop in my basement but I never saw it happening this cheaply or quickly, goddamn.

Man, total jealousy. I wish I had room to stash something like that!

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.


Was off work sick today (long story short, nowhere near enough sleep and inhaled a whole bunch of rust/mud/gross poo poo while pounding on my rear suspension last night to get the old leaf springs out, woke up feeling like death and uncertain if I was actually sick or just feeling like crap) so once I actually cleared that all out and got up, I went to the steel shop for materials for the master bedroom floor joist supports.

Ended up buying 60 feet of 2"x3" 1/4" thick angle iron. Quotes online were up into the $800 range... I paid $250. This is why I go to that steel shop every single time I need something.

Jeep rode quite nicely with 250lbs of steel in the back, previously it would have been slamming off the bumpstops every time I so much as looked at a pothole and lurching uncontrollably. Nothing like new rear leaf springs and shocks to improve things.

So I guess the next time we have a warm spell (I completely missed this one due to work and other engagements, but will probably have time the next one, or in the spring, whichever comes first) I'll have to jack up the drat house and put the new sill plate in. Then I can really get started on the new floor. It's about drat time, I've been dragging my feet and staring at it unhappily for a while because I was both lacking money and motivation.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.


Since it is way too drat cold to be working on the foundation I did some subflooring/fireblocking tonight. No pictures, my cellphone is horrible in the dark and my camera is being a douche.

One more 2x4 foot panel of CDX into that space and I can poly sheet the closet for my bedroom in, blow the walls full of insulation, sheetrock it, move my dresser and some shelves in there, and free up some actual floor space. Next paycheck or the one after it I'll probably buy the remainder of the stuff I need (11 16-foot 2x12s) for the master bedroom floor joist project, at which point I'll be ready to roll on the sill plates, foundation, and master bedroom floor the second we have a couple days of above freezing temps.

kastein fucked around with this message at 04:23 on Jan 24, 2014

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.




All materials for the new master bedroom floor are now in hand - I made it to the lumberyard with 20 minutes to spare today. And it's nice out, so time to go back to working on the sill plate project.

That's $388 in lumber right there, 14 16-foot 2x12s. Enough to do the whole bedroom floor with 12" OC joists a full 40% taller than the originals. Between going from 16OC to 12OC and that, plus the fact that I'm probably going to do two sets of crossbracing @ around 5 feet apart instead of one halfassed set right in the middle of the span, I doubt this floor is going to go anywhere.

Also, who needs a pickup with a lumber rack when you own a beater cherokee? I only had to make it across town and was very careful going around corners and stopping, but it handled it no problem.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.


Alright. I am now in somewhat of a moral/engineering quandary.

I tore the rest of the siding and sheathing off the wall over the sill plate I've been bitchin' and moanin' about for, oh, months now.

Sill plate is kinda cheesy seeming, but it isn't dry rotted, it doesn't appear to be completely destroyed by bugs, and it seems structural and shaped like a 6x6 beam should be shaped still. If I whack it with the wrecking bar (not a full-force hit, just a "thwack it and see if it comes to pieces" hit) it only digs in about a quarter of an inch, and sounds solid.

So I give it 10-20 years or more before it rots out, especially if I fix the drainage along the base of the foundation wall to keep water away from it.

Do I close it back up and pretend I saw nothing? Do I rip it out and put a new one in? A penny for your thoughts, because I can't decide. The right thing is clearly to rip it out and replace, but I kinda want to get this done instead of loving around with it forever because I have a house to remodel.

It will take another day to jack up the wall, rip the old one out, and redo the top of the foundation with new mortar. Then another few days to cure the mortar sufficiently, then half a day to drop it onto the new sill plate. Or I can forget I saw it, put a few new sheathing boards over it, and fix the drainage in the spring.

e: also, the last post is a perfect example of why I always go to local lumberyards when I can. 14 of those 2x12s at $388 is $27.7 each. Home Depot sells the same size for $28.46 before taxes - and the quality is significantly worse. I can go to my local yard and grab the first 14 off the stack and the absolute worst one I'll get is better than the best one I'll find after an hour of digging through the stack at Home Depot. Every 2x12 I came home with today was perfectly straight, no structurally concerning knotholes, most of them are drat near straight grain for the whole length, and the surface finish is better too.

kastein fucked around with this message at 23:38 on Feb 1, 2014

SamDabbers
May 26, 2003




It sounds like you have at least a little doubt about its integrity, so I say "do it right" and never have to think about it again. You've gotten this far, and to skimp on repairs to such a structurally important part to save a few days' work seems kinda silly to me.

Also, more videos/pictures please

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.


Yeah, that's what I'm leaning towards even though I really don't want to gently caress with it, and what everyone I've asked so far has said. Dammit.

I would post more pictures and stuff but right now progress is extremely slow, mostly due to it being winter. I was going to do this last night but smashed my knee up ice skating so I didn't feel like kneeling to work on the sills/foundation at all and went to sleep instead. Since the temps are forecast to stay above the low 20s even at night for the next few days I am leaning towards fixing it... otherwise it'd be basically another month or two before I have another chance to do any real structural masonry work.

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005



Could you take a few samples with a drill bit, see what the core of the beam looks like, or at least how soft it is?

I lean towards leaving it, if you can verify that it's sound.

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011


You know well enough now that you should replace it. One day and a few hundred dollars is much less than I've paid for smaller shares of peace of mind.

daggerdragon
Jan 22, 2006

My titan engine can kick your titan engine's ass.

Nth-ing "do it right or don't bother".

Sir Cornelius
Oct 30, 2011


Do it right, or you'll never sleep again.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009



Grimey Drawer

kastein posted:

e: also, the last post is a perfect example of why I always go to local lumberyards when I can. 14 of those 2x12s at $388 is $27.7 each. Home Depot sells the same size for $28.46 before taxes - and the quality is significantly worse. I can go to my local yard and grab the first 14 off the stack and the absolute worst one I'll get is better than the best one I'll find after an hour of digging through the stack at Home Depot. Every 2x12 I came home with today was perfectly straight, no structurally concerning knotholes, most of them are drat near straight grain for the whole length, and the surface finish is better too.

I good local yard is always worth it. HD lumber is such garbage.

Also, you know you need to replace that poo poo now. It's not like it's a 2 week project. Get it done and it's done. You're doing all of the other stuff the right way.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.



You can be doing other work while the mortar sets, you know the answer buddy.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.


That isn't the problem, the problem is that it's goddamn winter and setting mortar doesn't like cold weather, so I'm somewhat limited on whether I can do this now or not.

Assuming it is still nice out when I get home (had to go into work today due to a cockup) I'll probably tear into it.

Ferremit
Sep 14, 2007
if I haven't posted about MY LANDCRUISER yet, check my bullbars for kangaroo prints

Would suck to have all your plasterboard inside nice and finished then accidentally crack the hell out of it lifting a part of the house to do the sill plate.

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011


kastein posted:

That isn't the problem, the problem is that it's goddamn winter and setting mortar doesn't like cold weather, so I'm somewhat limited on whether I can do this now or not.

Assuming it is still nice out when I get home (had to go into work today due to a cockup) I'll probably tear into it.

Screws, two tarps (put an air gap between the two), four cinder blocks, and a propane or electric space heater. I've done similar on our cabin up in Idaho. It sucks but can be done and it can be done warm.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.


Everyone who said to rip it out, as well as my gut instinct, were right.

I just started working on it again since it'll be in the mid 20s all day and the bottom of every stud is powder for the first two inches. I'm not sure how it was supporting weight. drat powderpost boring beetles...

I'm sure the inside of the sill beam is more of the same.

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!

Aaand bullet dodged. Well, you landed in more bullets, I guess, but hey. vv

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005



Just coat the sill in epoxy, it'll be like an engineered beam.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.


I'm presently holding a 20 foot roll of copper/poly laminated flashing, 1 foot wide.

This motherfucker is never rotting out again.

Knocked out the jackstuds with a wrecking bar just so I had them out of my way. Not like I need those to keep the house from falling over, I'll put new ones in when I get the new sills in place.


Here's what's left of one of the original joists for the living room floor.


Here's the first two inches of a jackstud! Yes, it's that beautiful pile of brownish powder.


And another one.


The destruction continues.


Not so bad compared to the other side. At least only one corner disintegrated instead of the whole thing coming out in pieces no more than 2" across.


gently caress everything. Especially this house and its previous owners.


I need to vacuum up some debris to give my bottle jack a good footing and find my square steel tube stock I used to jack the place up last time, then I can get this thing in the air and start fixing the foundation a little.

e: oh, you can see the cornerpost I've been bitching and moaning about and the other (even worse) sill plate on teh far left of that last pic. It's the part that's falling apart. Fortunately it looks like it's a 4x6 post, and so is the other one, so it should probably hold till I have a chance to rip the porch off and redo a ton of that wall this summer.

Goddammit!

kastein fucked around with this message at 19:12 on Feb 9, 2014

Blistex
Oct 30, 2003

Macho Business
Donkey Wrestler


Every time I get pissed off about the state of the addition on the back of my house I come to this thread and thank my lucky stars I don't have your mess! Were you some sort of war criminal in a previous life to deserve this?

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010


I don't think he deserves it.

I think he likes it. It feels drat good to destroy sometimes. It feels even better to create, to make something your own, to change the world with your own hands.

That's why we work on cars/houses/trucks and whatnot.

Liquid Communism
Mar 9, 2004


Out here, everything hurts.




Hey, if nothing else, at the end of the day you'll know this poo poo isn't hosed up anymore when you're done. That's peace of mind that I'd love to have.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.


I would have bought a different house if I knew this poo poo was this hosed up.

Either that or I would have laughed at them for a long, long time and then offered 15k instead of 38.

loving hell, only another 36 feet or so of sill plate to replace!

(I'm halfway through 8 feet of that right now.)

I enjoy a lot of things most people don't but sill plates are not one of them.

I will build my next house from scratch, alone or with one other person, except for the cementwork. And it will be done right and I will never have to go through this kind of rot repair again.

Fortunately the market seems to be rising in my area (just as I expected it would) so within a couple years I will probably be sitting on a 150k+ property. My general intent is to sell at the peak of the market, buy a bajillion acres somewhere in the woods for pocket change, and build again. I give it till 2018 or maybe, maybe 2020 before the next bubble bursts. Friends are already getting beaten out while trying to buy because houses are selling for 20k over asking price within a week of being listed.

kastein fucked around with this message at 23:16 on Feb 9, 2014

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.


Victory is mine! The 4 weight bearing studs (there were also two jackstuds, but they didn't matter) that were on top of this 8 foot section of sill are now hovering 1/4" above it.

Pics soon, my phone blueballed me by dying the second the flash went off when I tried to take the final picture. Then I rip out the sill plate and toss poly sheeting over the whole mess because it's starting to snow and I don't want to have to shovel it up before doing the masonry repairs tomorrow after work.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.


It's jacked up and supported here, but I left it for a while and then kicked the scaffolding pretty hard to make sure it wouldn't tip over before I removed anything.


Looks the same right? What's that leaning over in the left corner?


Look ma, no hands!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GIQn8pab8Vc

About 85% of this section was pretty solid. In fact I almost feel bad about ripping it out. But the end that was all the way to the left corner was full of powderpost boring beetle holes and very pungy on the top face, and the foundation under this was in pretty poor shape and not well sealed, AND the bottoms of all the studs were powder too, so no real loss except the time to remove and replace.


Gotta toss up some poly sheeting to keep the snow off like I said before, then I am hitting the sack. Masonry repairs tomorrow night, I guess.

e: I tossed up a laser level and marked a level line across all the studs I jacked up plus the cornerpost that I didn't move before I did any of this, so I can put it back at exactly the same level it started at.

kastein fucked around with this message at 02:10 on Feb 10, 2014

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!

Liquid Communism posted:

Hey, if nothing else, at the end of the day you'll know this poo poo isn't hosed up anymore when you're done. That's peace of mind that I'd love to have.

Fully expecting tornado/earthquake/lahar hours after he tells us his goals are finally accomplished.

Blistex
Oct 30, 2003

Macho Business
Donkey Wrestler


Splizwarf posted:

Fully expecting tornado/earthquake/lahar hours after he tells us his goals are finally accomplished.

My money's on Italian boulder out of nowhere!

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.


As long as I have the place done and insured for replacement value before that happens, I am OK with that.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.


Oh, another thing.

Last time I jacked up a weight bearing wall to replace a sill plate, I lifted the studs by nailing two 2x6s to the outside faces of them with about a dozen 12d nails at each junction. It sucked, the 2x6s got trashed just by the weight, the nails almost pulled out, bad news all around, really sketchy.

This time I tried a new method - I bored a 1" hole through the middle of each stud I needed to lift. Then stuffed a shortish piece of 1" OD 0.120" wall DOM (drawn over mandrel - not important, HREW or ERW structural tubing would work just as well, or solid bar stock, or drat near anything, probably even properly sized steel gas pipe) through each hole and put a piece of steel box tube stock under each end, so the tube is effectively in double shear and lifts each stud equally on both sides.

Each end of the two pieces of box tube stock rests on either the inboard support beam (which is another piece of box tube stock lying on the living room floor, crosswise to the joists, to spread the load) or the outboard support beam, which is the one you see outside the wall (and parallel to it) with the bottle jack and/or prop lumber under each end.

I was afraid the DOM tube would bend, or split/damage the studs, but it went very smoothly compared to last time. As soon as the slack was taken out, the studs just lifted straight up, without any of the horrible sketchy creaking and shifting and nails bending and 2x6s crushing that happened last time.

The best part? I needed to drill some 3/4"-1" holes through most of these studs to run wiring and heating pipes through anyways. So the holes won't go to waste when I've put the wall back together.

Sir Cornelius
Oct 30, 2011


When you're through this, you'll probably be in your late 40s, but you'll look and feel like a 90 year old mine-worker and the carpenter ants will prepare a dance on your coffin.

This is definitely one of the most entertaining threads so far, and I expect it to deliver for decades.

Carry on, you crazy fool

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kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.


I'm 27, going on 28. I expect to have this place done within a year or maybe two

For the last year I've been money-limited. Now I'm time-limited and motivation limited (until it gets slightly warmer out) - and I have... 11 or 12 vacation days left, a stack of company holidays, and most weekends to work on it.

With the pricey stuff I'm going to have to start buying this year (flooring, siding, windows, heating system components, kitchen stuff*, cement basement floor materials/possibly labor) this year I will probably end up about equally time and money limited.

* though I intend to make all my cabinets and such myself, so that won't be as expensive as it normally would be.

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