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Indolent Bastard
Oct 26, 2007

I WON THIS AMAZING AVATAR! I'M A WINNER! WOOOOO!


Larrymer posted:

Are all your friends as tall as you? Most of us normal sized folk would be left with legs dangling like children. :)

Tough luck.

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kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.


Larrymer posted:

Are all your friends as tall as you? Most of us normal sized folk would be left with legs dangling like children. :)

Nope, most of my friends are under 6 feet. Actually, my legs dangle too which is quite comfortable after a long day of working on stuff. Mostly I forgot to take the thickness of the doubled up 2x4s on the top and the skis on the bottom into account when figuring out how tall it should be.

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!

Just needs a shoeshine bar.

STR
May 12, 2006

I thought I was a nice jester




I really need to do something similar for a new desk chair. Mine's worn the gently caress out, and even the crap seats in my Saturn are really comfortable. And cheap at junkyards, since nobody wants Saturns. :downs:

Hypnolobster
Apr 12, 2007

What this sausage party needs is a big dollop of ketchup! Too bad I didn't make any. :(



some texas redneck posted:

I really need to do something similar for a new desk chair. Mine's worn the gently caress out, and even the crap seats in my Saturn are really comfortable. And cheap at junkyards, since nobody wants Saturns. :downs:

I got a 2013(?) mustang seat for $100, ripped the motors and associated garbage off the bottom of it, drilled a few holes in some scrap plate and stuck it to an old desk chair base. Works awesome.



It'll outlast a $600 desk chair without breaking a sweat. Car seats are built ridiculously well.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.


I have no joke like 6 XJ bucket seats in the attic waiting to be turned into living room and home office furniture. The only downside is no armrests, and I can solve that pretty easily.

Also two super comfortable bench seats out of a ram 2500 van for couches.

And some old wheels and axleshafts to make coat trees out of.

And old differential and engine main/rod bearing caps to make drawer pulls with...

I'm sure there is other stuff I am forgetting.

Also, I spent last night installing an electric range outlet and electric range in my sister's new house for her, since she is recent-homebuyer housepoor and didn't feel like giving an electrician $900 to run 25' of 8-3/WG NM through a clean crawlspace, drop a 50A breaker and range outlet in, and plug the sucker in. In return she gave me the old stove. We'll be able to cook without standing in the yard using a BBQ grill or microwaving/hot-plating things! :woop:

Not Wolverine
Jul 1, 2007

by Fluffdaddy


kastein posted:

I have no joke like 6 XJ bucket seats in the attic waiting to be turned into living room and home office furniture. The only downside is no armrests, and I can solve that pretty easily.

Also two super comfortable bench seats out of a ram 2500 van for couches.

And some old wheels and axleshafts to make coat trees out of.

And old differential and engine main/rod bearing caps to make drawer pulls with...

And half a house worth of wood to make bon fires with. . .

I'm sure there is other stuff I am forgetting.

Also, I spent last night installing an electric range outlet and electric range in my sister's new house for her, since she is recent-homebuyer housepoor and didn't feel like giving an electrician $900 to run 25' of 8-3/WG NM through a clean crawlspace, drop a 50A breaker and range outlet in, and plug the sucker in. In return she gave me the old stove.

quote:

<snip>We'll be able to cook without standing in the yard using a BBQ grill or microwaving/hot-plating things! :woop:

Now why would you want to do a silly thing like that??? Also, I'm assuming she gave you a gas stove, right?

kastein posted:

I ended up finding some free radiant design software from a company called Watts (IIRC) so I am giving that a try before I read a lot and learn the hard way. Thanks a ton though, that book tells me way more than I ever expected to learn.

We were using the old seats from a Roadmaster as bonfire seating but they kept digging into the ground and tipping over backward.

So I threw together a quick base for them. Need to mount a 6-pack holder in the middle ahead of the seats.


Next up: finish crossbracing in master bedroom floor.

I can't look at this picture without hearing dueling banjos, how far do you live from the nearest river? This picture does make me want to go find a junkyard to scavenge some seats from. . . or just buy another $50 Wal-mart special to dispose of in a couple years, it's practically a chair rental service.

Not Wolverine fucked around with this message at 15:13 on Oct 5, 2015

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.


Crotch Fruit posted:

Now why would you want to do a silly thing like that??? Also, I'm assuming she gave you a gas stove, right?


I can't look at this picture without hearing dueling banjos, how far do you live from the nearest river? This picture does make me want to go find a junkyard to scavenge some seats from. . . or just buy another $50 Wal-mart special to dispose of in a couple years, it's practically a chair rental service.

Yeah, it's jetted for propane right now but I'm pretty sure we can rejet it for natural gas, most of them can deal with that. Until then, I have a 25lb bottle of propane that won't fit my grill that I need to dispose of anyways...

As for dueling banjos that comparison is more apt than you think. My usual directions for getting people to my actual driveway ends like this: "turn right on the road between the dead end sign and the phone pole, drive till you see a truck parked on the side of the road, go to the left of it, then drive until you hear banjos or see jeeps."

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.


This happened a while ago but all the crossbracing is in, except for four pieces whose position depends on the exact alignment of a joist with the end of a piece of subflooring plywood, so they aren't going in till the subflooring is about to.


More up to date stuff from last weekend. I tore a bit of the back deck down so I could get the sheathing off the house and inspect the last 16' of sill beam for rot. I was not exactly pleased by what I found. It was just rotten enough in most places that I could technically ignore it, and just rotten in enough other areas that I couldn't ignore it at all. So I began digging further into the wall above it...
Apparently the hamfuckery about the ledgers in the adjoining two walls of this addition was only a sign of things to come. Balloon framed, but don't let that stop you from using studs (roughly) half as tall as the wall!


These are only connected to each other by the sheathing and rim joist, and the rim joist is buckled to the point that it's half an inch from the studs.

e: and I just realized only the bottom stud is nailed to the rim joist, so the top stud is just... sitting on top of it. :bravo:

Some squirrels decided that 3/4" sheathing is overrated and encroached too much on their nest so they made it into 1/4" sheathing.


More butted-up studs connected by the rim joist and sheathing.

e: this one's the same way, only the bottom joist is nailed down. Idiots.

Add to these concerns the fact that all three window openings will need to be opened out more (since the new windows are a different size) resulting in having to reframe those sections, and that NONE of the studs actually go all the way from the sill to the roof (even though it's balloon framed), and the wonky old almost-true-dimensional lumber...

So after some discussion we decided that the entire end wall of the living room and master bedroom is a lost cause and will all be torn off. Might as well get started right?
Took my FuBar III to the bottom of the studs since the chainsaw ran out of gas and I didn't have any premix around.


Jacked the cornerpost up. I'm doing one 8' section of sill at one end first, once that's all done and the cornerpost is back on solid ground I'll do the other.


Ever need to use a bottle jack on a wonky angle without it kicking out at you when you pump it up? Firewood splitting wedges are forged steel and cost five or ten bucks a pop.


Concrete formwork done.


Concrete placed and finished and the J-bolts installed. I wish I could have gotten 14" J-bolts but Home Depot only had as large as 12". They will be going up through a course of 6x8x16 cement blocks, which will have the cores filled in, so it won't be that big a deal, but I would have liked to have more than 2" of concrete over the J heads.

That's all for this weekend, hopefully by next weekend I'll have the blocks laid and filled, new sill in place, and the other end of the sill removed and prepped for foundation pouring. Once that's done, I can buy an rear end load of 2x6 lumber (I'm going up to 2x6 for this wall since it makes a few things easier and increases R value) and tear the whole old wall out then put the new one up in the same weekend, which is getting more important since we have snow in the forecast soon. Hoping the new master bedroom window will arrive sometime around then because then I can put it in too!

Once we decide how the living room windows (and since I'm working with a clean slate here now, maybe a door onto the porch) are going to be laid out, I can figure out how the framing will be set up.

BTW, this is all why I will never, ever buy a house someone else built again. Why? No prepurchase inspection would be able to catch most of these issues since they're hidden by plaster. It's like trying to diagnose cancer without an X-ray, MRI, PET/CT scan, or any blood tests, etc. Good loving luck.

kastein fucked around with this message at 20:29 on Oct 13, 2015

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007







Does this represent the last stretch of your house's outside walls that needs new footing? E.g., the final piece of foundation work to do. Because if so, congrats, that's gonna be awesome that you can turn your entire focus to the walls and floors and ceilings and start to sort of put together a functional interior to your house.

e. Also holy god the squirrels hollowing out that section of wall must have been deafening at night, I'm amazed the previous occupants didn't eventually go on an insane murder spree and/or burn the place down.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.


I believe so.

And by "believe so" I mean it loving definitely does, because I am tired of fixing sills and if I find any more issues I'm plastering the gently caress over them and pretending I saw nothing. I have already retopped 38 feet of foundation wall and replaced 38 feet of sill beams working solo, have only 16 feet left to go, and I'll be damned if I add even a single foot to that number. :aaaaa:

There are some support posts in the basement I want to replace with lally columns but those are practically a fun evening project compared to this bullshit.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

Hubris

Fun Shoe

Cripes. Good luck with the new wall! That's a heck of a project to do in two days.

How much of this stuff has to get inspected by the city? Or are you far enough out in the boonies that they don't really care about ensuring you're up to code? Obviously you're going way above and beyond what the code requires here.

10 Beers
May 21, 2005

Shit! I didn't bring a knife.



kastein posted:

I believe so.

And by "believe so" I mean it loving definitely does, because I am tired of fixing sills and if I find any more issues I'm plastering the gently caress over them and pretending I saw nothing. I have already retopped 38 feet of foundation wall and replaced 38 feet of sill beams working solo, have only 16 feet left to go, and I'll be damned if I add even a single foot to that number. :aaaaa:

There are some support posts in the basement I want to replace with lally columns but those are practically a fun evening project compared to this bullshit.

:allears: I wish I'd been reading this thread when the bachelor thread was still around.

I wish the bachelor thread was still around. :(

daslog
Dec 10, 2008

#essereFerrari


Wow. That's impressively terrible.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.


It really shouldn't be that bad, it's a 16' long wall 14' tall with a gable over it. I'll be using ZIPsystem sheathing this time, most likely. Not sure I'm comfortable with the fact that it's OSB and only 7/16 thick, need to give it a poke in the store and see.

Inspection is an interesting question with an equally interesting answer.

First of all, the building inspector likes me. He knows I build poo poo WAY above code, and usually doesn't even bother inspecting even when I do pull a permit. I ask him if what I'm going to do is a good idea before I start and he usually tells me I'm wasting my money building it that strong, but by all means go ahead. He knows I've done some stuff without a permit, but quite frankly doesn't seem to care at all, his MO is to go after the lovely contractors and people who are creating deathtraps and leave the people he trusts alone instead of wasting their time. One of my neighbors worked with him as contracting partners for something like 20 years, too. I know from speaking with my neighbor (and the inspector) that he sometimes doesn't even bother inspecting work done by the contractors he trusts the most, just signs it off and everyone is happy. He's also known for showing up after hours or at random times in the middle of the day unannounced to look things over, if stuff is 100% well built he'll just stop bothering you and sign your permit off on the spot, if it's a disaster and he feels like you're doing something bad he'll screw with you every chance he gets.

He HATES one of my other neighbors (they have had a feud going for something like 8-10 years now. I don't know why that neighbor decided to fight authority, but he did) so he's in my area frequently looking for reasons to write up that neighbor. I'm sure he's been all over my place while I was at work and has satisfied himself that I'm doing a good job.

Second, yeah, I'm far enough out into the woods that no one really gives much of a poo poo.

So technically I'm probably not following the rules 100% all the time, but the inspector's aware of it and trusts that what I build is solid enough to just leave me alone. He knows that I'm not a shady flipper, build stuff to last since I want to live here, and don't have any kids, and leaves the rest to me.

dreesemonkey
May 14, 2008


Pillbug

Every time I see one of your structural problems prior to your heroic fixes, it makes me impressed just how hosed up a structure needs to be before failing catastrophically. Godspeed, young Ken.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.


Yeah, it's amazing how much a structure will put up with before failing. Example: Even with everything rotted out including parts of the rafters this house held up to 3 feet of snow loading on the roof... on top of an inch thick layer of soaking wet asphalt shingles.

Oh, and 90% of the wood in the sill beam under the latest cornerpost I jacked up? Yeah, it had been converted to reddish frass by powderpost boring beetles. When I sawzalled the sill at the base of the post, it basically poured out till there was nothing left.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

Hubris

Fun Shoe

kastein posted:

Inspection is an interesting question with an equally interesting answer.

Thanks for sharing this! I'm not really surprised that the inspectors basically give a free pass to people they trust. It streamlines things immensely if you don't have to stop every few days/weeks to get the inspector out to look things over and the city doesn't generally want to discourage construction, just crappy construction. Must be nice to have earned the inspector's trust though.

Zhentar
Sep 28, 2003

Brilliant Master Genius


kastein posted:

Some squirrels decided that 3/4" sheathing is overrated and encroached too much on their nest so they made it into 1/4" sheathing.


:eng101: Squirrels, like all rodents, have a pair of continually growing incisor teeth. They need to chew on hard things frequently to wear them down and sharpen them.

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010


Zhentar posted:

:eng101: Squirrels, like all rodents, have a pair of continually growing incisor teeth. They need to chew on hard things frequently to wear them down and sharpen them.

They stop growing when they're dead, though :clint:

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.


I put pellets in their heads so they don't grow.

I didn't get around to doing the cement block laying last night for a variety of reasons. Probably won't get done till tomorrow night at this rate, either. :argh:

kastein fucked around with this message at 19:23 on Oct 14, 2015

dreesemonkey
May 14, 2008


Pillbug

kastein posted:

Yeah, it's amazing how much a structure will put up with before failing. Example: Even with everything rotted out including parts of the rafters this house held up to 3 feet of snow loading on the roof... on top of an inch thick layer of soaking wet asphalt shingles.

Oh, and 90% of the wood in the sill beam under the latest cornerpost I jacked up? Yeah, it had been converted to reddish frass by powderpost boring beetles. When I sawzalled the sill at the base of the post, it basically poured out till there was nothing left.

I feel the same way about electrical in my house from the PO. On the bright side, at least he was using actual electrical wire (and not like speaker wire or something), but I had a duct tape covered junction box underneath my deck getting soaked with rain. At least it was on a GFCI outlet.

I also have also found numerous live wires just hanging out not hooked up to anything or in a junction box. Ahhh well, gently caress it, right?

How about the mountain of wiring that isn't even hooked up hanging out in the bottom of my breaker box? Yea. Good stuff.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.


Isn't previous owner fuckery a great thing? :suicide:

I have been slacking hardcore on doing the foundation work which is a problem, but will probably lay the concrete blocks tonight. Also, I picked up the new master bedroom window last night and it's fuckin' huge. Like, comically huge. I knew 66x48 was a big window, a bit bigger than the existing one (64x36 IIRC) but didn't really absorb that info till I picked it up. It may look a little funny from outside, but will certainly improve the view and available light inside.

dreesemonkey
May 14, 2008


Pillbug

Put that window downstairs so you can get your bridgeport or whatever in the house ;)

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.


Wrong room, the living room floor is being kept which would make it hard to get the bridgeport into the basement through it, sadly. I say sadly because the entire living room wall will be wide open in a few weekends and it'd be easy to get inside.

The bridgeport has to go in through the side of the kitchen.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.


The concrete was solid enough so this morning I became an amateur blocklayer:


Then extended the J bolts with long nuts and threaded rod, and filled the blocks in with quikrete 5000:


Then tore the rest of the lovely deck back away from the other half of this sill and ripped the siding and sheathing off:

As expected it is just as hosed so I went to home depot for more form making materials and now I know what I am doing tomorrow!

At least this is... the last one. Yeah, you read that right. This is the last sill I think I have to replace.

Liquid Communism
Mar 9, 2004


Out here, everything hurts.




kastein posted:

BTW, this is all why I will never, ever buy a house someone else built again. Why? No prepurchase inspection would be able to catch most of these issues since they're hidden by plaster. It's like trying to diagnose cancer without an X-ray, MRI, PET/CT scan, or any blood tests, etc. Good loving luck.

At this point it'd almost be a relief for you to be scratch building. Nothing lovely to tear out that way!

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.


It would be, but it's more expensive and harder to live in while doing it, sadly.

Speaking of which, I'm trying to plan out the new wall. It's getting interesting. I bought all the CDX for the subflooring upstairs and all the 7/16 ZIPsystems sheathing for the wall a few days ago... trying to plan the wall to fit a 72x80 patio door and a roughly original size window on the first floor, plus the new big window on the second floor. Where it's getting interesting is that unless we decide for sure before it gets built, I'm framing the inside of the 72x80 RO for the patio door to fit a second window of the same size as the other one, while trying to keep them symmetrical on the wall because I don't want this poo poo looking like groverhaus. The window should probably have the same top height as the theoretical future patio door anyways to make it look not-lopsided, so I may be overthinking this. Time to draw a lot of things on graph paper.

Also picked up a $180 garden tractor with a snowblower attachment and started remotoring it on Sunday. The details on that will be over in AI on the "Alternative AI" thread, not here, but it's mostly so we don't have to shovel and push/walk-behind snowblow the whole road this winter, so I'm mentioning it here.

dreesemonkey
May 14, 2008


Pillbug

Ken I've seen some really awesome alternative home builds on garage journal that I think would be up your alley. There is a guy in TX that built a 100x50x20(?) metal building and split it in half for shop space and half for living space. The living space is two stories.

There is another similar "HARN" (House barn) in OH, with radiant in-floor heating the guy heated it the first winter just using a water heater (I think he's since converted to an outdoor furnace).

There are a few others as well I can't remember. If you do end up building to be your forever home, I think that would be the way to go if you don't give a poo poo about resale value, etc.

I'm not an expert but I'm guessing you could do a pole building build for probably half the cost of a traditional stick built home of similar size.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009





Grimey Drawer

dreesemonkey posted:

adiant in-floor heating the guy heated it the first winter just using a water heater

That sounds familiar.....



That's been running the radiant in my barn/office for a couple years now.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.


I've already got my "forever home" plans pretty much set in stone, but thanks for the ideas!

Splizwarf
Jun 15, 2007
It's like there's a soup can in front of me!

kastein posted:

I've already got my "forever home" plans pretty much set in stone, but thanks for the ideas!

Literally, if I recall correctly. :v:

Zhentar
Sep 28, 2003

Brilliant Master Genius


I'm gonna throw the SunRise Home out there, because I want to see the Kastein take on 5000 gallons of thermal storage and thermal shutters.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.


That has some interesting ideas in it too. Thanks.

In other news I did some poo poo on the house this weekend.

Tore the last rotten sill beam out, tore the foundation down to ground level-ish and blasted all the dirt and old mortar off with a garden hose:



Fall cleanup, went nuts with the loppers and chainsaw and cleared out underbrush that's been encroaching on the lawn for half a decade:



Rottenest end of the last sill beam:


Burned a lot of old scrap wood including the old sill beams:



Set up forms for the last foundation pour:





Mixed up 4 bags of quikrete 5000 and there we go:


Assuming it cured properly last night instead of freezing (I forgot it was gonna get that cold and didn't set up the heaters...) I should be able to lay the last 6 blocks tonight, then I can tear the whole old wall down and build a new one on the new foundation. Can't wait.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.


sup motherfuckers I've been busy!

The concrete was kinda soft and fucky a day later and I feared the worst. It could be dug apart with a screwdriver to a depth of about 1/2". Not wanting to give up, I gave it a soak with the garden hose, set up the spaceheater, and built a foamboard hut over it, then pretended nothing was wrong for two days.

Took the hut apart and it finished curing! The surface may have frozen slightly, but it easily withstood screwdriver abuse and only a small amount came off the top when I attacked it with a wirewheel on my angle grinder, which I assume was the silty lovely semifrozen layer because I overworked it. No matter, I was going to mortar blocks to that anyways, don't care how it looks now that the lovely part is wirewheeled off.

Blocks laid:


J bolts extended, and blocks filled with quikrete 5k:


Considering the plan of attack:


Big rear end load of lumber for the new wall:

Might need more but I think that's about it:
8x 4x8 3/4" CDX for the master bedroom subflooring
9x 4x8 7/16" ZIPsystem sheathing
3x 16' 2x6 for top and bottom plates of the lower half of the wall + bottom plate of the top half of the wall
2x 12' 2x6 for top plates (angled, ~45 degrees) for the top half of the wall
13x 10' 2x6 for studs (9 first floor, 4 second floor in the center where it's tallest)
8x 8' 2x6 for studs/cripple studs/jackstuds/window and door opening headers and footers (probably need more of these, but this was all I could fit in the car)
2x 8' PT 2x6 for sill plates

I'm about 1/3 of the way through stripping the siding off the wall in preparation for demolition. More will be removed this week, then I can just chainsaw the wall out of my way.

Plan:
48x66.5 RO on the second floor for the Big rear end Window
72x80 RO preframed on the south side of the first floor for a possible future deck entrance door
Within it, and on the north side of the first floor, 40x60 ROs for new-construction windows.

This way if we decide to put a door in that opens onto the deck, all it requires is a wrecking bar and a saw to open things out to the right size for a standard unit instead of having to tear the wall open and reframe (again.)

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.


(Friday night)

HERE'S JOHNNY! :unsmigghh:


Made a big rear end hole in my house!


Saturday:

GF got a pretty good action shot, right after I finished knocking most of the wall down. The bit at the top is unreachable by any safe means until I put a bit more of the wall back up or install some temporary scaffolding.


Where did it go?! I left it right here...


Half assed drawing of how it'll go back together. We've decided for sure on a patio door so I'm not framing that opening in for a window now, just the door.


Sunday:

Sill plate is in, bolted down on top of 1/8" closed cell foam gasket, and the bolts trimmed to length. One rotten cornerpost bottom has been spliced with new wood and LedgerLok bolts.


Half the first floor wall assembled and ready to go in. Dog approved.


In and nailed/screwed down!

(jackstuds/cripple studs have since been installed in the window opening)

The second half is also assembled, in place, and nailed down, and a 16' 2x6 plate put across the two and nailed down, and the other corner post has been repaired also, but it was oh-dark-thirty when I finished so pictures will have to wait for morning.

TO BE CONTINUED TOMORROW EVENING

kastein fucked around with this message at 02:58 on Nov 9, 2015

Seat Safety Switch
May 27, 2008

MY RELIGION IS THE SMALL BLOCK V8 AND COMMANDMENTS ONE THROUGH TEN ARE NEVER LIFT.



Pillbug

I'm really glad you finally got a competent photographer.

Laminator
Jan 18, 2004

You up for some serious plastic surgery?


Hell yeah 2x6 walls

No PT bottom plate? Even if it's not in direct contact with the concrete I'd figure you world want all the rot resistance

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.


Yeah she is a lot better at photography than me, also my LG phone's camera sucks so the pictures have gotten markedly worse since I switched away from my Droid.

The bottom plate pictured is PT - the nailed down one above it is not.

And yeaah I went with 2x6 walls because of the higher strength and R value of a 5.5" cavity vs 3.5". They also match up perfectly with a 6" block wall so there was a third reason.

E: picture!


The header over the door is way bigger than I need, I know. This wall isn't even really weight bearing.

kastein fucked around with this message at 13:32 on Nov 9, 2015

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Fender Anarchist
May 20, 2009

Fender Anarchist



kastein posted:

The header over the door is way bigger than I need, I know. This wall isn't even really weight bearing.

It'll be handy when you inevitably convert that room into a workshop, with an overhead crane rated for the 5-ton's engine.

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