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Electoral Surgery
Mar 19, 2010


Numbness from your shoes means they don't fit right. When you go back to MEC, try on a bunch of different shoes and try to spend ~15 minutes standing around or playing on a demo wall if they have one to figure out how well the different shoes match your foot shape.

Climbing 3 times a week when you are new is enough to stress out your hands regardless of connective tissue disorders. I climb frequently and during the first year my hands hurt a lot in the mornings, it was similar to what you're describing: aching and inflammation, weak grip for the first 10-20 minutes I'm awake. Eventually it went away but there were periods where I had to climb less frequently than I wanted because my hands needed the rest. Connective tissue takes a long time to adapt. You could try a two days off / one day on schedule for a few weeks and see if your hands feel better. Obviously, listen to advice from your physio over some dork from the internet.

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AAB
Nov 5, 2010



is it just a common issue that no rock gym has anywhere near enough parking ever? circled the lot for 20 mins tonight and even the fire lanes behind the building had cars parked in them.

no broccoli please
Apr 20, 2007

no broccoli please you are nice here is a Nathaniel Hawthorne avatar

AAB posted:

is it just a common issue that no rock gym has anywhere near enough parking ever? circled the lot for 20 mins tonight and even the fire lanes behind the building had cars parked in them.

If my gym is anything like the rest, yeah, totally. Plus they're putting in a trampoline park in the same building, which, while cool, will eat up that parking even worse.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



AAB posted:

is it just a common issue that no rock gym has anywhere near enough parking ever? circled the lot for 20 mins tonight and even the fire lanes behind the building had cars parked in them.

I never have any problems. If I did I don't think there would be room to climb at all.

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)




AAB posted:

is it just a common issue that no rock gym has anywhere near enough parking ever? circled the lot for 20 mins tonight and even the fire lanes behind the building had cars parked in them.

My gym only has enough parking first thing in the morning on Saturdays and Sundays and it's basically in an abandoned office park. Any weeknight between 6 and 9 you will be walking a long way.

Zephro
Nov 23, 2000

I suppose I could part with one and still be feared...


So I'm going to be in Boston (the American Boston) in a week or so for a conference and I'm probably going to bring my climbing shoes. Can anyone recommend a good wall near Back Bay, which is where my hotel is? There seems to be a chain of walls called the Central Rock Gym but I can't get their website to work for some reason. Since it's just me going I'd probably stick to bouldering so I don't have to worry about finding a belay partner, so if there's a specialist bouldering gym, even better.

Zephro fucked around with this message at 09:23 on Feb 6, 2017

Electoral Surgery
Mar 19, 2010


Central rock gym in Watertown is good and has a a decent amount of bouldering. The CRG location in Cambridge is all bouldering, the setting was quite good when I visited it.

I've been told to go to Rock Spot several times but haven't tried it yet - supposedly their bouldering area is pretty large.

Caf
May 21, 2004

I'm King James! The Lion King!

Zephro posted:

Can anyone recommend a good wall near Back Bay, which is where my hotel is?

Rock Spot in South Boston is a quick subway ride (plus a short walk) from Back Bay. It's almost exclusively bouldering and a lot of it. PM me if you decide to make the trip and want a climbing buddy. You can use one of my free guest passes.

Zephro, same goes for you if you decide to give it a try.

Falkaugaa
Feb 13, 2010


Hello, climbing thread!

I'm headed out to LA for a week in march, tagging along while the gf is at a conference there. I'm hoping to get one, maybe two, days outside bouldering. I was looking at stoney point park just for the ease of access, but I'll definently hit up Jtree if I can swing it. I'm not super advanced, bouldering V4-V5 outdoors so I'm looking for cool problems in the V0-V3 range. Any recommendations?

I'm hoping not to have to bring my pad with me, any places in LA that rents out pads for a day?

Zephro
Nov 23, 2000

I suppose I could part with one and still be feared...


Thanks for the recommendations, everyone, and thanks Caf for the offer of a gust pass! I'll definitely let you know if I make it - not sure exactly how much free time I'm going to have at this conference but it'd be great to give it a try.

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


So I'm going to my first bouldering comp tomorrow and have no idea what to expect. There's almost no info on it on the website, I don't know the wall too well, and I have no idea what the skill level there is. Any help or tips or things to look for would be awesome! I'm climbing at a v3/4 grade with some long projected v5s if that helps at all.

E:. I have watched a few highlights/clips from some of the IFSC world cups so it's not entirely unknown to me but it might as well be.

Ravenfood fucked around with this message at 19:20 on Feb 10, 2017

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012



Ravenfood posted:

So I'm going to my first bouldering comp tomorrow and have no idea what to expect. There's almost no info on it on the website, I don't know the wall too well, and I have no idea what the skill level there is. Any help or tips or things to look for would be awesome! I'm climbing at a v3/4 grade with some long projected v5s if that helps at all.

E:. I have watched a few highlights/clips from some of the IFSC world cups so it's not entirely unknown to me but it might as well be.

Is it a red point comp? Almost every comp for adults that isn't an ABS comp is a red point comp that I've ever seen. Those don't really work anything like world cups. If it's a redpoint comp my advice is to scout problems you think you can do/point range you're interested in then warm up and wait for other people to try things then steal their beta. More importantly try not to wear yourself out trying a million different problems you can't do, which is easy to do in a comp because there're going to be a lot of cool new problems. Pace yourself carefully and in the beginning (say first half) just try problems you think you can flash based on watching other people try them, once you get the minimum number of problems to score you can start throwing yourself at harder stuff. Don't be too much of a slave to the point scale in terms of difficulty, they can be pretty loose and if a problem is in your style you may do well on a much "harder" problem than you'd think.

If it isn't a red point comp I have no idea good luck I guess. Where did you find a comp willing to do all the BS with the isolation that isn't youth competition, ABS Nationals or equivalent?

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


I honestly have no idea. Given that there's no information about it, I'd guess its probably the redpoint because otherwise they'd be using it as a selling point. Basic gist of that is that each climb is worth a certain number of points based on difficulty, so try to warm up on easy ones and then peak at the highest level I can send, then? Makes sense, I just need to remember to actually do that when I see some sweet new problems. Thanks!

e: Redpoint, as expected, and goddamn I figured it'd be a chill competition but that was ridiculous. I'm used to fencing tournaments and trackmeets so having everything be so honor-system was a little weird at first. Did...alright. I paced fairly well for most of it except for when I threw myself at one that was easier than I was making it and ended up getting really pumped earlier than I'd thought. Difficulty was fine, I was just going about it really poorly. Had a lot of fun, would do again. Thanks again for the tips.

Ravenfood fucked around with this message at 00:01 on Feb 12, 2017

Rime
Nov 2, 2011


Need some advice for this year:

My climbing partner keeps insisting I take a trad climbing course and refuses to let me trad climb anything above 5.7 until I do so, which has become somewhat offensive. I do not need to take a course, courses are for yuppies with more money than time / effort, I am perfectly happy with my copies of John Long / Craig Luebben and long hours spent practicing placement. I own my own rack, it is not his gear.

I'm really getting annoyed by his super-paranoid approach to climbing which results in very little fun and a whole lot of time spent loving around doing 10m 5.6 routes, and not even a half dozen in a full day at best. With my other partner unwilling to even lead on sport, I feel that I am being held back. Last summer I went out with another friend and quickly rocketed from 10a sport lead up to 10d clean, just due to the difference in atmosphere, but he's moved back east.

Am I being unreasonable, or should I just ditch my friends and find climbing partners who are interested in actually pushing boundaries instead of incessantly fiddling around? :(

tortilla_chip
Jun 13, 2007

k-partite

Some people are more risk averse than others. Try making more friends at your climbing gym?

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)




Most climbing gyms will have a message board where you can look for climbing partners I think.

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)




Sorry to double post but I have a shoe question. I had a size 42.5 pair of Sportiva Mythos that I recently wore completely out (my right big toe was about to come through the end). They fit pretty snugly when I bought them, but after a month or so I had a fair amount of room in the toe box. I got a new pair in a size 42, but they're tight enough that I got a nasty blister on top of my big toe after climbing in them yesterday and today. Does that sound like a hot spot or should I just wait for them to stretch?

Electoral Surgery
Mar 19, 2010


They're leather so they'll stretch to fit if you can get through the process. Leukotape has worked better than anything else I've tried for preventing blisters, it sticks to a sweaty foot without trouble and a single roll lasts forever.

You can focus-stretch the hot spot part of your new shoe with a shoe tree and a bit of folded up paper or cloth.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Rime posted:

Need some advice for this year:

My climbing partner keeps insisting I take a trad climbing course and refuses to let me trad climb anything above 5.7 until I do so, which has become somewhat offensive. I do not need to take a course, courses are for yuppies with more money than time / effort, I am perfectly happy with my copies of John Long / Craig Luebben and long hours spent practicing placement. I own my own rack, it is not his gear.

I'm really getting annoyed by his super-paranoid approach to climbing which results in very little fun and a whole lot of time spent loving around doing 10m 5.6 routes, and not even a half dozen in a full day at best. With my other partner unwilling to even lead on sport, I feel that I am being held back. Last summer I went out with another friend and quickly rocketed from 10a sport lead up to 10d clean, just due to the difference in atmosphere, but he's moved back east.

Am I being unreasonable, or should I just ditch my friends and find climbing partners who are interested in actually pushing boundaries instead of incessantly fiddling around? :(

Unfortunately I think you need to get new friends. The guy who is not filling to lead is cool to climb with if he follows/cleans everything though. If it is only the two of you climbing it doesn't add any time to your day. The other guy though... Maybe climb with him on some easy stuff that you want to do but anything else you just need to find someone else.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Rime posted:

Need some advice for this year:

My climbing partner keeps insisting I take a trad climbing course and refuses to let me trad climb anything above 5.7 until I do so, which has become somewhat offensive. I do not need to take a course, courses are for yuppies with more money than time / effort, I am perfectly happy with my copies of John Long / Craig Luebben and long hours spent practicing placement. I own my own rack, it is not his gear.

I'm really getting annoyed by his super-paranoid approach to climbing which results in very little fun and a whole lot of time spent loving around doing 10m 5.6 routes, and not even a half dozen in a full day at best. With my other partner unwilling to even lead on sport, I feel that I am being held back. Last summer I went out with another friend and quickly rocketed from 10a sport lead up to 10d clean, just due to the difference in atmosphere, but he's moved back east.

Am I being unreasonable, or should I just ditch my friends and find climbing partners who are interested in actually pushing boundaries instead of incessantly fiddling around? :(

I agree with the other folks here with one caveat. I'm assuming your trad lead scared friend doesn't have more experience than you. If he does, he might just be politely trying to say that your placements or anchor building need work. Assuming that is not the case, find new climbing partners.

asur
Dec 28, 2012


Rime posted:

Need some advice for this year:

My climbing partner keeps insisting I take a trad climbing course and refuses to let me trad climb anything above 5.7 until I do so, which has become somewhat offensive. I do not need to take a course, courses are for yuppies with more money than time / effort, I am perfectly happy with my copies of John Long / Craig Luebben and long hours spent practicing placement. I own my own rack, it is not his gear.

I'm really getting annoyed by his super-paranoid approach to climbing which results in very little fun and a whole lot of time spent loving around doing 10m 5.6 routes, and not even a half dozen in a full day at best. With my other partner unwilling to even lead on sport, I feel that I am being held back. Last summer I went out with another friend and quickly rocketed from 10a sport lead up to 10d clean, just due to the difference in atmosphere, but he's moved back east.

Am I being unreasonable, or should I just ditch my friends and find climbing partners who are interested in actually pushing boundaries instead of incessantly fiddling around? :(

I think you need to find a partner who's approach to climbing aligns with yours. With that said, i do think you're missing the point in the first paragraph. When you climb you take on a joint responsibility and if he's not comfortable taking on that responsibility then he shouldn't be participating in that climb. It's not about letting you do something. I would press him for this actual concerns. If it's just taking the class then that's dumb.

asur fucked around with this message at 19:09 on Feb 14, 2017

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx


asur posted:

I think you need to find a partner who's approach to climbing aligns with yours. With that said, i do think you're missing the point in the first paragraph. When you climb you take on a joint responsibility and if he's not comfortable taking on that responsibility then he shouldn't be participating in that climb. It's not about letting you do something. I would press him for this actual concerns. If it's just taking the class then that's dumb.
This is a really good point.

canis minor
May 4, 2011



I've been climbing for three years now, but for the first time in this time my nails started flaking off (3rd and 4th toe on each foot). I'm using the same shoes for a year now, so it's a little weird for me.

French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience


Michigan Ice Fest was awesome. Saturday was kind of a cluster though because of melting routes and tons more people than Friday. Today we aren't banking on the easier ice having stuck around so homeward we go!

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



French Canadian posted:

Michigan Ice Fest was awesome. Saturday was kind of a cluster though because of melting routes and tons more people than Friday. Today we aren't banking on the easier ice having stuck around so homeward we go!

Cool that you went. I always wanted to when I lived in Michigan. I hear it is a pretty awesome event.

cybertier
May 2, 2013


So my wife gifted me a 2-hour climbing introduction for my birthday and this weekend we did it.

This was actually much more fun than I anticipated and we are going to take the mandatory course for securing each other at our local climbing gym next friday.
That said this seems really pricey here in germany. A month membership is at 54 at this local gym.
Is that normal is this more expensive here?

glynnenstein
Feb 18, 2014




I don't know what the gyms in Germany are like, but in the DC area in the US membership rates run from about $65 a month to $89 depending on location. Besides the lead, top route, and bouldering climbing they include workout facilities like a regular fitness gym, so it doesn't seem bad to me. Cheaper Expensive

Angryhead
Apr 4, 2009

Don't call my name
Don't call my name
Alejandro





The only bouldering gym in Estonia charges 45 a month.

cybertier
May 2, 2013


glynnenstein posted:

I don't know what the gyms in Germany are like, but in the DC area in the US membership rates run from about $65 a month to $89 depending on location. Besides the lead, top route, and bouldering climbing they include workout facilities like a regular fitness gym, so it doesn't seem bad to me. Cheaper Expensive

I'd murder for a combination gym for climbing and regular lifting nearby. Sadly I'm already on a regular gym membership for at least another year for also 50 month. Seems like the prices are similar enough to the US though.
Well, we'll see if we are really willing to pay 200/month on fitness memberships.

Climbing definitely seems like much more fun than any workout at a gym.

Mahlertov Cocktail
Mar 1, 2010

I ate your Mahler avatar! Hahahaha!

cybertier posted:

So my wife gifted me a 2-hour climbing introduction for my birthday and this weekend we did it.

This was actually much more fun than I anticipated and we are going to take the mandatory course for securing each other at our local climbing gym next friday.
That said this seems really pricey here in germany. A month membership is at 54 at this local gym.
Is that normal is this more expensive here?


cybertier posted:

I'd murder for a combination gym for climbing and regular lifting nearby. Sadly I'm already on a regular gym membership for at least another year for also 50€ month. Seems like the prices are similar enough to the US though.
Well, we'll see if we are really willing to pay 200€/month on fitness memberships.

Climbing definitely seems like much more fun than any workout at a gym.

It really depends where you are and how often you climb (since it's more cost-effective to have a longer-term membership if you climb more).

For example, I'm a DAV-Mitglied, which costs 75/year for a full membership, then you get discounts at any DAV gym. A year pass here in Frankfurt costs like 360/year on top of the Vereinsmitgliedschaft, so that adds up to 435/year, which is about 33/month. If you're not a DAV-Mitglied then the prices are more in line with what you posted.

If you climb (or want to climb) on the regular, then a DAV-Mitgliedschaft is 100% worth it if there's a DAV gym in your area!

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


More shoe-chat! I'm currently climbing in Katanas and while they're not bad, they're small over the big toe and somewhat wide in the heel. I can deal with it pretty easily now that they're broken in, but I'm getting semi-close to needing to replace them and I wouldn't mind ordering some new shoes either. Anything roughly equivalent to the Katana in the Tenaya line?

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx


Ravenfood posted:

More shoe-chat! I'm currently climbing in Katanas and while they're not bad, they're small over the big toe and somewhat wide in the heel. I can deal with it pretty easily now that they're broken in, but I'm getting semi-close to needing to replace them and I wouldn't mind ordering some new shoes either. Anything roughly equivalent to the Katana in the Tenaya line?

Try the Iati. It feels almost as precise as the Oasi, but it edges almost as well as a Miura. The Tarifa is also a good shoe, but definitely try it, as it's pretty downturned. I love the Oasi, but it's a much more sensitive, precise shoe that won't be nearly as stiff feeling as the Katana.

canis minor
May 4, 2011



Yearly wall membership would cost me 216 in UK

Mahlertov Cocktail
Mar 1, 2010

I ate your Mahler avatar! Hahahaha!

canis minor posted:

Yearly wall membership would cost me 216 in UK

That's normally pretty comparable, though I guess it's more expensive here right now since the pound is down.

Still B.A.E
Mar 24, 2012



canis minor posted:

Yearly wall membership would cost me £216 in UK

That's cheap, the two places I've climbed at regularly have both been around £350 for an annual pass.

Zephro
Nov 23, 2000

I suppose I could part with one and still be feared...


My wall (the Arch in London, which is bouldering only) charges £10 a go, or 10 sessions for £75, or £400 for an annual membership. That gets you access to something like 35,000 sq ft of space spread across three venues (two of which are right next to each other in a fairly central location and one of which is way the hell out of the main city).

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


Bud Manstrong posted:

Try the Iati. It feels almost as precise as the Oasi, but it edges almost as well as a Miura. The Tarifa is also a good shoe, but definitely try it, as it's pretty downturned. I love the Oasi, but it's a much more sensitive, precise shoe that won't be nearly as stiff feeling as the Katana.
Thanks. I suppose I'll start spamming backcountry with shoe orders to eventually return. The lack of any decent brick/mortar place within 200m is such a pain.

Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008


Another shoe dilemma, my previous pair of shoes was Instinct VS's, fantastic except the mesh top would rub the top of my foot raw. I picked up the new Shamans after that, the price is nice and they're comfortable, but I feel like I blew through the rubber really fast AND they're not as grippy - heel hooks especially feel much less secure. Which pair do I resole, or do I try something else?

Sharks Eat Bear
Dec 25, 2004


Dutymode posted:

Another shoe dilemma, my previous pair of shoes was Instinct VS's, fantastic except the mesh top would rub the top of my foot raw. I picked up the new Shamans after that, the price is nice and they're comfortable, but I feel like I blew through the rubber really fast AND they're not as grippy - heel hooks especially feel much less secure. Which pair do I resole, or do I try something else?

Do heel hooks feel less secure because of less grippy rubber or because the heel feels too baggy like your foot might slip out?

If it's the latter, I'd recommend going on a full blown shoe quest, trying on as many different pairs until you find the pair that fits your foot like a glove. like a glove for your feet. if it's the former i have no advice

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spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Typically you only half resole anyways. I would look for a better fitting shoe.

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