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Claes Oldenburger
Apr 23, 2010

Metal magician!
:black101:



I saw some dude do a toe hang (grab a hold with his toes, let go of his hands, and then proceed to grab where his toes are with his hands and hoist himself up) last night on the bouldering wall. I don't know if that's the proper term but it was the craziest thing I've seen yet. Even crazier that people actually do that (i assume) halfway up the face of a mountain :psyboom:

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jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


Welcome to the wonderful world of bat hangs.

Typh
Apr 17, 2003

LAY EGG IS TRUE!!!


Attempted my first 5.10+ yesterday, expecting to get nowhere.
Instead, made it 75% of the way up! :krakken:

Cybor Tap
Jul 13, 2001



Claes Oldenburger posted:

I saw some dude do a toe hang (grab a hold with his toes, let go of his hands, and then proceed to grab where his toes are with his hands and hoist himself up) last night on the bouldering wall. I don't know if that's the proper term but it was the craziest thing I've seen yet. Even crazier that people actually do that (i assume) halfway up the face of a mountain :psyboom:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eybA9pyXcbI This was a route at my gym. My housemate show's the only way to do the first half.

PRADA SLUT
Mar 14, 2006

Got a big STEM up my asshole.


Has anyone seen/heard of a Goatse chalk bag?

Recycle Bin
Feb 7, 2001

I'd rather be a pig than a fascist

I'm trying to learn proper technique/footwork. I saw some videos on drop knees and flagging, but none of them really discuss when to use one over the other (or neither). As near as I can tell, you drop knee when you have two footholds, and you flag when you only have one foothold?

Large Hardon Collider
Nov 28, 2005


PARADOL EX FAN CLUB


I just started climbing in Chicago. I saw a few mentions of vertical endeavors in this thread, and I'd like to make it out there soon. So far, I've only been to hidden peak, by the Chicago blue line stop. It's a cool little bouldering gym with locals that I see every time I go. Any goons climb there?

Slim Killington
Nov 16, 2007

I SAID GOOD DAY SIR


I try to get to VE at least once a week from the Chicago area, every two weeks at the longest. I posted a few pages back though about a gym coming to the south loop, http://www.firstascentclimbing.com. It'll be nice to have something closer than VE and Boulders for this area.

Reformed Tomboy
Feb 2, 2005

chu~~

Recycle Bin posted:

I'm trying to learn proper technique/footwork. I saw some videos on drop knees and flagging, but none of them really discuss when to use one over the other (or neither). As near as I can tell, you drop knee when you have two footholds, and you flag when you only have one foothold?

You're right on flagging, it's to help you balance against the wall when you only have one foot hold.

But as far as I understand it, drop knee is more for pushing off sideways, or at an angle where you need the extra leverage. For example, you wouldn't drop your knee if you just needed to stand up onto a foothold, unless the hold was at your hip. It's not dependent on how many holds you have, it's about how it affects your body movement.

semicolonsrock
Aug 26, 2009

chugga chugga chugga

Any advice for climbing well while using exclusively my arms and one leg? Got the OK to climb from my PT as long as I "dont use on eleg". Obviously this is going to be hilarious and lovely, but if anyone has any techniques, I would appreciate. I'm expecting to just have to do like V1-2s or something in very "creative" ways.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



I would think it would be better to top rope instead of bouldering. I have seen people in leg casts doing that. The akward climbing might cause you to fall bouldering which would be bad for your leg I would guess.

Jose Valasquez
Apr 8, 2005

Bzzt Bzzt!

Yeah, bouldering seems like an absolutely terrible idea

Discomancer
Aug 31, 2001

I'm on a cupcake caper!

semicolonsrock posted:

Any advice for climbing well while using exclusively my arms and one leg? Got the OK to climb from my PT as long as I "dont use on eleg". Obviously this is going to be hilarious and lovely, but if anyone has any techniques, I would appreciate. I'm expecting to just have to do like V1-2s or something in very "creative" ways.
I had a broken toe a couple years ago and still bouldered with one foot, mostly on the juggy overhang routes, but sport climbing would probably have worked better. I ended up doing a lot of cutting and you work your inside/outside flags a LOT. Wasn't a great time, but it's better than not using an arm I suppose.

Stangg
Mar 17, 2009


Ugh I finally recovered from a ruptured tendon in my knee and a triple whammy of a sprained ankle on the same leg, only to be doing a compression move last night and something in my other ankle popped (audibly enough for everyone around me to hear).

Guess it's time for another trip to the hospital, any ideas what it could be before I go, do I need to go?
It keeps popping and sending shooting pains up my leg when I try and walk.

Petey
Nov 25, 2005

For who knows what is good for a person in life, during the few and meaningless days they pass through like a shadow? Who can tell them what will happen under the sun after they are gone?

Stangg posted:

It keeps popping and sending shooting pains up my leg when I try and walk.

I am not a doctor but this sounds like a good reason to go see someone who is!!

Crabby Abby
Apr 26, 2006

I'm the graph in the OP

Recycle Bin posted:

I'm trying to learn proper technique/footwork. I saw some videos on drop knees and flagging, but none of them really discuss when to use one over the other (or neither). As near as I can tell, you drop knee when you have two footholds, and you flag when you only have one foothold?

For me, flagging is a way to maintain balance. It keeps me from swinging away from the wall when my hands and feet aren't spread out enough to keep me in a stable position. I notice I do it most often at the start of a route where there is only one foothold. What do I do with the free foot? Flag it.

Drop knee is a way to get closer to the wall and extend reach. I think you could do it with only one foot on, but I tend to think of using it with two feet. Picture yourself climbing out from under a roof. You've got one foot stretched out horizontally along the lip of the roof, the other foot is underneath you, toe hooked into a jug on the roof. You're trying to reach a hold two feet above the lip. In this position you can't push up with the leg underneath, but you need to get higher. Rotate your horizontal leg and knee inward toward the wall, either partially or all the way until your knee is pointing down. If that is your right leg it will bring your right hip and shoulder closer to the wall, extending the reach of your right hand by a couple inches.

When I encountered my first problem where I had to use a drop knee I felt giddy after pulling it off. I'd only read about the move so I was thrilled that it worked.

Crabby Abby fucked around with this message at 14:18 on Mar 19, 2013

Pander
Oct 9, 2007

Fear is the glue that holds society together. It's what makes people suppress their worst impulses. Fear is power.

And at the end of fear, oblivion.





Large Hardon Collider posted:

I just started climbing in Chicago. I saw a few mentions of vertical endeavors in this thread, and I'd like to make it out there soon. So far, I've only been to hidden peak, by the Chicago blue line stop. It's a cool little bouldering gym with locals that I see every time I go. Any goons climb there?
VE is nice, I go every other day. It's only a 15-20 min drive for me though. It's much more of a top-roping place than bouldering though. There's only a couple bouldering spots, neither of which is terribly large or well-developed, so if you're looking for more of that I'd say you'll probably be disappointed.

If you like sport-climbing though there's about 20 auto-belays, 20 top-ropes, and about 10 lead routes.

Typh
Apr 17, 2003

LAY EGG IS TRUE!!!


How the poo poo do I not slip off tiny slippery food holds? The biggest issue on the two 5.10+ I've attempted is that there are some footholds I can't put any weight on without my foot sliding right off. All I can find online is "they will hold you!" but they don't hold me.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Typh posted:

How the poo poo do I not slip off tiny slippery food holds? The biggest issue on the two 5.10+ I've attempted is that there are some footholds I can't put any weight on without my foot sliding right off. All I can find online is "they will hold you!" but they don't hold me.

It really depends on the foothold. A lot of small foot holds you can "edge". Basically if there enough of a flat or a protrusion that you can actually stand ON the chip, you are probably edging. I have a funny feeling that isn't what you are asking about.

Sometimes the foot chip is actually more of a slight lump or buldge and doesn't really have a "top" to speak of. On chips like that it is ofter more effective to smear just above it, by half an inch or so. When you do this the hold ends up cupped beneath your shoe, in the area just in front of the ball of your foot. Whether you do this with your toe pointing into the wall or towards the outside depends a lot on the route and where you need to go next. You end up with a lot more rubber contacting the foot chip that way, and the foot will typically stick a lot better.

Recycle Bin
Feb 7, 2001

I'd rather be a pig than a fascist

Thanks for the replies re: flagging and drop knee. I had a pretty good climb last night. I exhausted myself from hanging too long, trying to figure out what to do with my feet, but it felt great when I managed to get my body in the perfect position to reach the next hold with minimal effort.

Tarnien
Jul 4, 2003
Champion of the World!!!

Recycle Bin posted:

Thanks for the replies re: flagging and drop knee. I had a pretty good climb last night. I exhausted myself from hanging too long, trying to figure out what to do with my feet, but it felt great when I managed to get my body in the perfect position to reach the next hold with minimal effort.

Just keep doing this. There's no guaranteed formula for when one will work better than the other. The only way to learn is to try both repeatedly and eventually you'll start to get an eye for it. Even if you think something won't work, try it just to be sure. It's amazing how often you'll come down from a climb and say "Wow, I can't believe that worked!"

Large Hardon Collider
Nov 28, 2005


PARADOL EX FAN CLUB


Thanks for the info on vertical endeavors. I'm planning a trip next week, and I'm excited to try toproping. What I meant to ask, though, is does anyone climb at hidden peak?

semicolonsrock
Aug 26, 2009

chugga chugga chugga

spwrozek posted:

I would think it would be better to top rope instead of bouldering. I have seen people in leg casts doing that. The akward climbing might cause you to fall bouldering which would be bad for your leg I would guess.

Jose Valasquez posted:

Yeah, bouldering seems like an absolutely terrible idea

I just really hate the harnesses and ropes and stuff. Maybe I will do that if there aren't enough low to the ground overhang type problems at the gym I go to, I actually forgot top rope was a thing.

Niyqor
Dec 1, 2003

Paid for by the meat council of America

Large Hardon Collider posted:

Thanks for the info on vertical endeavors. I'm planning a trip next week, and I'm excited to try toproping. What I meant to ask, though, is does anyone climb at hidden peak?

I don't but have heard from many of my climbing friends in the city that it is their favorite place to go. If I bouldered more I would probably go there. I usually climb at LVAC.

I work fairly close to it and may look into going during the lunch hours. Would be a nice break in the day.

spandexcajun
Feb 28, 2005

Suck the head for a little extra cajun flavor

Fallen Rib

Got off work early Firday and went to Eldorado, first time outside since the fall. It was awesome, 70 degrees out and great climbing. I lead Calypso "only" a 5.6 but a classic Colorado climb I have wanted since I started doing the trad thing. The first pitch was amazing.

Everyone likes pictures right?

The "Wind tower" in Eldorado, lived up to it's name that day, communications were harder then we thought they would be due to wind / river noise:



Bottom of Calypso, totally run out for the first 15' but not scary:



My buddy following / cleaning:



This next piece of gear was stuck from someone else, he wanted it bad (free gear!) but could not get it out.



Me, goofy as hell at the top of the first pitch, Bastille crack in the background. I was feeling (and looking....) pretty rad:



Get outside everyone.

What a day, felt great to be outside again. I can't wait for the some more nice days and the season to kick into gear. I have a list a mile long of 5.6 - 5.8 in the frontrange I am ready to lead all spring / summer long!

Missoura
Mar 28, 2008

I purr, therefore I am.


Oh man, I just got really nostalgic for Calypso. I love that route.

I'm going to be in Minnesota over Memorial Day and I'm wondering if there are some good places to climb, either in Minnesota or nearby. I have about five days to travel and climb. Any suggestions?

Covert Ops Wizard
Dec 27, 2006



Typh posted:

How the poo poo do I not slip off tiny slippery food holds? The biggest issue on the two 5.10+ I've attempted is that there are some footholds I can't put any weight on without my foot sliding right off. All I can find online is "they will hold you!" but they don't hold me.

How vertical is the route you're working on when this happens? The problem might be a physical one, if the route is overhung you might not have the core strength to keep your feet on without them cutting. Actually, remembering my beginner days I had the same problem even on 90 degree walls, I just wasn't strong enough yet.

Also, how are your shoes? A good edge on the shoe makes a ton of difference.


Recycle Bin posted:

Thanks for the replies re: flagging and drop knee. I had a pretty good climb last night. I exhausted myself from hanging too long, trying to figure out what to do with my feet, but it felt great when I managed to get my body in the perfect position to reach the next hold with minimal effort.

The other thing a drop knee is good for is finding a position that lessens tension on your muscles, I find making a move from a drop knee a lot less strenuous than being face on to the wall and it's a pretty good rest position for a quick shake out when you're working a problem that's on the seam of two walls opposing each other, even at a really obtuse angle.

Blog Free or Die
Apr 30, 2005

FOR THE MOTHERLAND

RE: Foot holds, drop knees, flagging, I've found this guide has some good advice. Other sections are good too.

evol262
Nov 30, 2010
#!/usr/bin/perl

Missoura posted:

Oh man, I just got really nostalgic for Calypso. I love that route.

I'm going to be in Minnesota over Memorial Day and I'm wondering if there are some good places to climb, either in Minnesota or nearby. I have about five days to travel and climb. Any suggestions?

It depends where you're going to be.

Taylor's Falls (an hourish north of the cities) has a lot of variety and a wide range of grades, but it's crowded as hell, especially on weekends (or whenever school's out).
Barn Bluff (near Red Wing -- an hourish south of the cities) also has a lot of variety, but it's a little further away, routes take longer to get to, and it's a lot of tiny holds on limestone.
Willow River (near Hudson -- 15 minutes away from the cities if you're on the east end) is much harder routes with less variety, but it's an easier drive and not nearly as well-known, if you can hack the routes.

Failing that, there's a Vertical Endeavors. Or stop by Midwest Mountaineering and ask for advice - there's actually a reasonable amount of places to boulder in the city.

pbpancho
Feb 17, 2004
-=International Sales=-

evol262 posted:

It depends where you're going to be.

Taylor's Falls (an hourish north of the cities) has a lot of variety and a wide range of grades, but it's crowded as hell, especially on weekends (or whenever school's out).
Barn Bluff (near Red Wing -- an hourish south of the cities) also has a lot of variety, but it's a little further away, routes take longer to get to, and it's a lot of tiny holds on limestone.
Willow River (near Hudson -- 15 minutes away from the cities if you're on the east end) is much harder routes with less variety, but it's an easier drive and not nearly as well-known, if you can hack the routes.

Failing that, there's a Vertical Endeavors. Or stop by Midwest Mountaineering and ask for advice - there's actually a reasonable amount of places to boulder in the city.

Taylors Falls has climbs on the MN and WI side though, and it's usually not TOO tough to find a less busy spot.

Willow, Barn Bluff, and Sandstone MN are the only sport climbing options.

3-4hrs north of the cities is the north shore of Lake Superior with some really amazing climbs, especially at Palisade Head or Shovel Point.

4hrs SW is Blue Mounds, a ton of quartzite routes

3.5hrs into WI is Devil's Lake, more quartzite

I'll likely be spending Memorial Day weekend in South Dakota in the Needles and such, drop me a PM if you'd like to know more, I'll be headed out there with a bunch of Meetup climbers and friends.

Niyqor
Dec 1, 2003

Paid for by the meat council of America

spandexcajun posted:

The "Wind tower" in Eldorado, lived up to it's name that day, communications were harder then we thought they would be due to wind / river noise:

I recommend getting some two-way radios. Once you start using them you'll never want to not have some again.

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010

WHY YES IT IS A BEAN!




I used to climb alot but time and a few other factors have put an end to that really. I'd love to get back into it but that is going to be hard seeing as I like to train indoors before I venture out onto the cliffs again. Do you guys have any tips for training without actually climbing properly? The one climbing gym in the area shut down cause it wasn't making any money and the only other options requires a $800 yearly fee which I won't pay

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Without climbing, it's going to be hard to get back into climbing shape. You could get a hangboard set up somewhere at home, but that isn't going to replace climbing. Are there any good bouldering spots near you?

PRADA SLUT
Mar 14, 2006

Got a big STEM up my asshole.


What's the sport climbing / bouldering look like at Shasta?

Walked
Apr 14, 2003



I'm headed to the LA area next week for work. I'll have my girlfriend in tow which means climbing is a possibility.

Is there any decent outdoor sport available in the LA area? We'll have a car, so driving is no big deal. Needs to have a reasonable bit of 5.7 - 5.9 stuff for her. Prefer not to toprope as its woefully inefficient to do with two people climbing at different grades AND I dont really want to haul that much gear across the country for it.

edit: Echo Cliffs looks good on mountainproject; confirm/deny?

Walked fucked around with this message at 16:00 on Mar 21, 2013

Stangg
Mar 17, 2009


Stangg posted:

Ugh I finally recovered from a ruptured tendon in my knee and a triple whammy of a sprained ankle on the same leg, only to be doing a compression move last night and something in my other ankle popped (audibly enough for everyone around me to hear).

Guess it's time for another trip to the hospital, any ideas what it could be before I go, do I need to go?
It keeps popping and sending shooting pains up my leg when I try and walk.

I went to the hospital and apparently it is a good idea even if you just think it's a sprain as the force of a ligament or tendon breaking in your ankle can break off a piece of bone/fracture the ankle.

All my xrays came back clean though so its just a a ruptured ligament and a few weeks off climbing.

Claes Oldenburger
Apr 23, 2010

Metal magician!
:black101:



What do you guys do about your hands peeling when climbing (flapping I think it's called?)? I don't have it bad yet but my climbing partners hands are getting shredded. He started putting tape on them but I don't know if that's a good idea or not.

canvasbagfight
Aug 20, 2005
renovating. please excuse our mess.

I use an emory board to file down the skin before it starts ripping and flapping. I aslo use a lot of lotion/climb on bar and basically try to keep my hands as 'normal' as posible. I have also tried a vinegar/salt hot water soak and found that to be effective especially with a pumice stone or something. Tape is always good if you keep ripping at a certain bit of hand and it's only a matter of time until it flaps away.

Getting sloppy on big positive plastic holds is usually what rips my hands up the most

Frown Town
Sep 10, 2009

does not even lift
SWAG SWAG SWAG YOLO


canvasbagfight posted:

I use an emory board to file down the skin before it starts ripping and flapping. I aslo use a lot of lotion/climb on bar and basically try to keep my hands as 'normal' as posible. I have also tried a vinegar/salt hot water soak and found that to be effective especially with a pumice stone or something. Tape is always good if you keep ripping at a certain bit of hand and it's only a matter of time until it flaps away.

Getting sloppy on big positive plastic holds is usually what rips my hands up the most

Good advice. When I make sure to moisturize regularly (not like, right before climbing, but afterwards) and file down my calluses, I hardly ever get flappers. Using climbing chalk might also help since it'll be easier to stick to the rock without gripping excessively.

Definitely try to climb with more gentle/static motions and you'll be less likely to gently caress up your hands.

Know your limits, you may just need to call it a day once your skin starts getting thin. As you climb more, your skin toughens up and your technique improves to a point where you can go a lot longer before you're in danger of peeling open your skin on the rock.

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PRADA SLUT
Mar 14, 2006

Got a big STEM up my asshole.


My hands have been hosed up for like two weeks now too. I climb 3x a week and there's just never any time to recover.

I have some balm for them I use daily, but would it be wise to take a few days off to let them heal?

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