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Slow News Day
Jul 4, 2007



Looking for some suggestions on bouldering/climbing shorts/pants. I found these but $55 seems a bit expensive - then again I have no idea what constitutes a reasonable price when it comes to this type of gear.

I have been climbing with regular cargo shorts so far, and while they work great, I've gotten a few gnarly scrapes on my knees, which I'd like to avoid.

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Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


Pricy as gently caress but I love my Prana Zions, both pants and shorts. I've gotten some good discounts on Steepandcheap before on them, which helps cut down the guilt on spending that much money.

Slow News Day
Jul 4, 2007



Ravenfood posted:

Pricy as gently caress but I love my Prana Zions, both pants and shorts. I've gotten some good discounts on Steepandcheap before on them, which helps cut down the guilt on spending that much money.

These?

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


https://www.amazon.com/prAna-Mens-S...etch+zion+pants and https://www.amazon.com/prAna-Stretc...tch+zion+shorts I haven't tried the convertible ones but I suspect the zipper would annoy me.

deck
Jul 13, 2006



Hot tip: the Prana Brion pants are the same as the Zions, but don't have the silly thigh cargo pocket, and are thinner through the legs. If you're a skinny climber they will fit you better if you find the right size. If you're not a skinny climber, don't waste your money on expensive pants.

Slow News Day
Jul 4, 2007



deck posted:

Hot tip: the Prana Brion pants are the same as the Zions, but don't have the silly thigh cargo pocket, and are thinner through the legs. If you're a skinny climber they will fit you better if you find the right size. If you're not a skinny climber, don't waste your money on expensive pants.

They also seem 20% more expensive for my size. :(

edit: holy poo poo, price goes from $52 to $70 for size 30 waist. :stare:

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

I have the zion shorts, long pants, and convertibles. I will personally only ever buy the convertibles again, because I can use them all year and thus get more value from them. I also find those cargo pockets super useful when I'm doing long trad climbs.

If you want your legs to look better in the gym, get the brions. If you want maximum utility for your dollar, get the zion convertibles.

Alternatively, a buddy of mine climbs in uniqlo stretch "denim" and swears by them. They have so much stretch that they're basically leggings though.

SwashedBuckles
Aug 10, 2007

Have at you!

Awkward Davies posted:

He's not dead and he drove himself to the hospital.

Article (WARNING: BLOOD AND STUFF) https://bkclimbing.wordpress.com/2017/08/31/my-climbing-accident/

https://i.imgur.com/btoFQWl.gifv

:stonk: That guy is amazingly lucky he didnít get injured worse or even die... definitely a reminder of the dangers of bouldering alone.

Awkward Davies
Sep 3, 2009


Grimey Drawer

The prana pants are pretty durable, I've had mine for a couple years now with no issues (though I only gym climb).

Syncopated
Oct 21, 2010


Just lol if your climbing pants don't have holes in them.

canis minor
May 4, 2011



I've been climbing in yoga pants - now I'm using them for yoga as well :v:

Awkward Davies
Sep 3, 2009


Grimey Drawer

Syncopated posted:

Just lol if your climbing pants don't have holes in them.

Thats why I'm going to release a line of pre-distressed climbing pants. There's an option for them to to be permeated with chalk, but it's more expensive.

Slow News Day
Jul 4, 2007



armorer posted:

I have the zion shorts, long pants, and convertibles. I will personally only ever buy the convertibles again, because I can use them all year and thus get more value from them. I also find those cargo pockets super useful when I'm doing long trad climbs.

If you want your legs to look better in the gym, get the brions. If you want maximum utility for your dollar, get the zion convertibles.

Alternatively, a buddy of mine climbs in uniqlo stretch "denim" and swears by them. They have so much stretch that they're basically leggings though.

Nice, this was very useful. Just pulled the trigger on a couple of zion convertibles.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

I've worn them as shorts in the summer and long pants in the winter. I've also worn them as long pants on cold mornings and then unzipped the legs when I got hot in the sun after it warmed up. They have great full year utility and hold up really well over time.

runchild
May 25, 2010

420 smoke melange erryday



I just roll my Brions up when itís warm.

I lost some weight early this year, needed new pants, and ended up getting 3 pairs (all on sale, obv). I wear them almost every day now. Durable, comfortable, water resistant/fast drying, and they look great. I even wore them to some weddings since all my fancy pants were too big. I wish I could find a 32x32 pair of the discontinued ďBrickĒ color.

SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!


Heading back to Las Vegas soon and wanted to take a friend there climbing outside for the first time. I drove through Red Rocks and liked what I saw but I think I'd prefer to stick to TR for them as I don't think they've ever belayed sport before.

I looked through MP and it looks like there's some decent beginner options for them on the panty wall, any other recommendations for routes or what guide book(s) to pick up?

Edit: Or other places around the LV area would be great too.

SplitDestiny
Sep 25, 2004


Thatís a pretty common wall to take beginners but you still need to lead the routes first.

Iím pretty excited because I feel like Iíve finally broken through a very long plateau of 12- climbing and now Iím starting to see 12c onsights. 13a might be doable over a weekend trip soon!

Angryhead
Apr 4, 2009

Don't call my name
Don't call my name
Alejandro




Fallen Rib

loving hell, got to the gym, did some warm-ups and traversing and easy routes for like 20 minutes and then after a few tries on a route I hadn't done before... hosed up my left ring finger. Actually heard a "cronch" sound :gonk:

So yeah, feels like the same kind of injury I had in late July on the middle finger of my right hand, some form of AC2 tendon tearing.

Just so bummed now, needed to air out my feelings somewhere. Hard to miss out on feeding this bouldering addiction of mine!

(I should try and lose some excess fat to put less weight on my poor fingers)

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



SeaborneClink posted:

Heading back to Las Vegas soon and wanted to take a friend there climbing outside for the first time. I drove through Red Rocks and liked what I saw but I think I'd prefer to stick to TR for them as I don't think they've ever belayed sport before.

I looked through MP and it looks like there's some decent beginner options for them on the panty wall, any other recommendations for routes or what guide book(s) to pick up?

Edit: Or other places around the LV area would be great too.

Guide books are impossible to find in my experience. Panty wall will be fine but you will have to lead. If you want to avoid leading go to the meet up wall. You can scramble around and rap in from a higher anchor to setup TRs on 5 routes or so. Everything is under 5.9. a nice scramble up there too.

ManMythLegend
Aug 18, 2003

I don't believe in anything, I'm just here for the violence.


So what are your secrets to keep the skin on your hands from falling apart?

I feel like its really starting to hold me back because if I even look at a moderately overhung problem I get a massive flapper. My finger tips are mostly liquid bandage at this point.

Do you file down your calluses to keep them from catching? Is there a lotion routine I should be using? I know that dry, winter, air is not helping at all, but I feel like at this point I must be missing something.

ManMythLegend fucked around with this message at 01:43 on Dec 12, 2017

Slow News Day
Jul 4, 2007



I file my calluses like once a week. Otherwise climbing becomes too painful after about ~30 minutes into the session.

Baronash
Feb 29, 2012

So what do you want to be called?

Does anyone climb in Garden of the Gods regularly? I visited the place over the weekend just for a hike and picked up the guidebook they were selling in the gift shop. The impression the book gave is that most routes are protected with ancient pitons and other sketchy anchors. I'm interested if it's still like this, or if the book is outdated.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



ManMythLegend posted:

So what are your secrets to keep the skin on your hands from falling apart?

I feel like its really starting to hold me back because if I even look at a moderately overhung problem I get a massive flapper. My finger tips are mostly liquid bandage at this point.

Do you file down your calluses to keep them from catching? Is there a lotion routine I should be using? I know that dry, winter, air is not helping at all, but I feel like at this point I must be missing something.

I do nothing. I try to know hold onto jugs very hard. I have only gotten two flappers in 10 years (both from super sharp limestone climbs with big dyno's).

So basically I can't help you. Maybe I just have good skin?

Electoral Surgery
Mar 19, 2010


ManMythLegend posted:

So what are your secrets to keep the skin on your hands from falling apart?

I feel like its really starting to hold me back because if I even look at a moderately overhung problem I get a massive flapper. My finger tips are mostly liquid bandage at this point.

Do you file down your calluses to keep them from catching? Is there a lotion routine I should be using? I know that dry, winter, air is not helping at all, but I feel like at this point I must be missing something.

Use a lot of moisturizer. A few times a day, at least. File down your callouses before they can tear off. Products meant for shaving/filing foot callouses are great.

Keep at it for a while longer and eventually your callouses will get 'deeper' in your hands and stop becoming flappers.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

spwrozek posted:

I do nothing. I try to know hold onto jugs very hard. I have only gotten two flappers in 10 years (both from super sharp limestone climbs with big dyno's).

So basically I can't help you. Maybe I just have good skin?

I also do nothing, and don't get flappers. I vaguely remember in the first year or two of my climbing having painful calluses a few times. Now unless I climb outside for a week straight, I don't have any such problem. I also don't really have huge calluses though.

I'm not sure if it's a technique thing, where you end up gripping differently over time or what.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



I also don't really get calluses either. Maybe it is from swinging a hammer working construction for 7 years growing up.

Ubiquitus
Nov 20, 2011



The moisturizing thing is probably dependent by person, but I think generally its not a good idea to over moisturize (once or twice a day?)

Personally I use a sanding bar to shove off skin about once a week, maybe more often if I've recently been outside a lot and my skin is growing back unevenly

Caf
May 21, 2004

I'm King James! The Lion King!

spwrozek posted:

I also don't really get calluses either. Maybe it is from swinging a hammer working construction for 7 years growing up.

Same but I work in IT and had soft baby hands before I started climbing.

I'll use a moisturizer every couple days but mostly, when my skin starts to get sensitive during a long climbing session, I just stop climbing for the day. I don't understand how some people struggle to avoid rips.

Sharks Eat Bear
Dec 25, 2004


Baronash posted:

Does anyone climb in Garden of the Gods regularly? I visited the place over the weekend just for a hike and picked up the guidebook they were selling in the gift shop. The impression the book gave is that most routes are protected with ancient pitons and other sketchy anchors. I'm interested if it's still like this, or if the book is outdated.

I donít climb there, but GotG is notorious for sketchy gear and chossy rock. I dont think the book is outdated in that respect.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Sharks Eat Bear posted:

I donít climb there, but GotG is notorious for sketchy gear and chossy rock. I dont think the book is outdated in that respect.

Unless I lived right there I wouldn't climb there personally. Way too many climbing locations in the front range that are better. Especially if you are based in Denver.

SplitDestiny
Sep 25, 2004


If you are getting flappers, itís almost entirely because your skin is too soft and hasnít built calluses yet. Just climb more and take it easy when you see flappers starting.

I also got one of my 13a gym projects today so that is exciting!

Wrr
Aug 8, 2010




Once I started top-roping and improved my footwork my flappers have totally stopped happening. I just barndoor way less and rip all the skin off my pinkies. Feels great but I was sorta into having some taped up fingers all the time. It was a total power look, I swear.

Anyone got recommendations for climbing harnesses? I'm about to get my own. Got one for Christmas but the gift buyer didn't know any better and got me an industrial climbing rig. They didn't know any better and did their best. I guess I should start with a simple sports harness, right? Price range of about $60-$120~ but I'll take any recommendations.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Wrr posted:

Once I started top-roping and improved my footwork my flappers have totally stopped happening. I just barndoor way less and rip all the skin off my pinkies. Feels great but I was sorta into having some taped up fingers all the time. It was a total power look, I swear.

Anyone got recommendations for climbing harnesses? I'm about to get my own. Got one for Christmas but the gift buyer didn't know any better and got me an industrial climbing rig. They didn't know any better and did their best. I guess I should start with a simple sports harness, right? Price range of about $60-$120~ but I'll take any recommendations.

Go to store and hang in all of them and decide. Probably the basic BD harness will be fine.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Wrr posted:

Once I started top-roping and improved my footwork my flappers have totally stopped happening. I just barndoor way less and rip all the skin off my pinkies. Feels great but I was sorta into having some taped up fingers all the time. It was a total power look, I swear.

Anyone got recommendations for climbing harnesses? I'm about to get my own. Got one for Christmas but the gift buyer didn't know any better and got me an industrial climbing rig. They didn't know any better and did their best. I guess I should start with a simple sports harness, right? Price range of about $60-$120~ but I'll take any recommendations.

I've climbed in a Petzl Adjama for years. I eventually replaced it with another one because the lower tie in point was worn beyond my liking, but it was still safe as it was. It's been fine for me for sport, trad, mountaineering, and ice climbing. I'm sure there are lighter and or more comfortable options out there, but it works great for me. I'd suggest trying a few on somewhere if you can and seeing what fits.

Meaty Ore
Dec 17, 2011

My God, it's full of cat pictures!


I'll be due to retire my current BD Momentum harness (which works fine FWIW) in about a year and I'm looking at the Adjama myself. A few of my climbing buddies use them and swear by them.

interrodactyl
Nov 8, 2011

you have no dignity


The Petzl Corax and the BD Momentum are great beginner harnesses, assuming you don't need to carry a huge rack outside.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx


Make sure you get a chance to hang in whatever you want to get for a decent amount of time. I had to return a harness that seemed fine after hanging on a project absolutely punished my ballbag. Iíve now got a Misty Mountain that I like a lot (and a broken finger that I donít, so I havenít climbed in almost three months).

Niyqor
Dec 1, 2003

Paid for by the meat council of America

My normal climbing partner has a black diamond solution harness and really enjoys it. I'll definitely be trying on when it comes time to replacing my Arc'teryx AR-395a.

TVsVeryOwn
Jan 9, 2011







So I'm taking my first trip to a climbing gym tomorrow. Assuming I like it, what kind of cross training should I be doing? Are there particularly good lifts to do? I know nothing of fitness and am a potato.

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Incoming Chinchilla
Apr 2, 2010


In a similar vein, are there any recommended online resources for intermediate bouldering tips/tutorials. I feel like I'm at the limit of how far I can improve by just doing it on my own.

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