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jiggerypokery
Feb 1, 2012

...But I could hardly wait six months with a red hot jape like that under me belt.

Alex Megos just onsighted 9a this week.

Check his training vid! http://player.vimeo.com/video/24776832?color=01AAEA

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Baldbeard
Mar 26, 2011



So my middle finger on my left hand (between first and second knuckles) has been a little sore for a few weeks, not painful -- just feels a little bruised. I took a week off climbing, and when I got back in it was somehow worse? Holds that put any significant amount of pressure on that part of my finger are quite painful now. Even though I can lift weights and do any other activity without feeling any pain whatsoever.

If I try to work through the pain, then it spreads to my forearm as well.

Best way I can describe it is like a dull, deep bruise, practically on the bone.
Sounds like I need an extended break and I'm already fretting it!

Stangg
Mar 17, 2009


Sounds like a small tear in the pulley, they are common and the cure is to rest for a week or two and then ease back into climbing on to it.

This seems to be the go to article for pulley injuries:

http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.co.uk/2010/05/pulley-injuries-article.html

It has helped me and I'm sure others on here.

In other news it looks like I'm going to be out of climbing for at least another month, the ligament rupture in my ankle just isn't healing, every day it pops at some point and remains painful (4 weeks after it happened). I'm not even sure I can do other exercise that because just stretching my body makes it pop and send shooting pains up my leg so I think weightlifting is out of the question.

Walked
Apr 14, 2003



I'm looking to buy a set of hexes - I've only ever used the black diamond hexes, but in googling some reviews it looks like slinged hexes are a bit more versatile and higher reviewed.

Looking at the rockcentric set with backcountry doing 20% off one item. Anyone have any input beefore I buy? I'd love to test out others, but there's only two guys I've followed with any frequency.

tortilla_chip
Jun 13, 2007

k-partite


Why? Are you concerned with weight? If not, then cams are way more versatile.

spandexcajun
Feb 28, 2005

Suck the head for a little extra cajun flavor

Fallen Rib

tortilla_chip posted:

Why? Are you concerned with weight? If not, then cams are way more versatile.

I've got to agree. I can't see the use of hexes over cams unless it's for nostalgia factor or I guess cost.

On the topic of over specialized trad gear I bought myself a #2 Trango Bigbro. I wanted to add a big piece to my rack and was looking at a #4 c4 camalot but they are huge / expensive / heavy. I got the bigbro, let's see if I can find somewhere good to place it. Seems like folks love or hate the Bigbros, guess I'll find out soon enough. Hope to take it to Vedauwoo in a few months.

I'll probably get the #4 C4 anyway, and a #5 and some of the new X4's .... who needs to pay mortgage?

Fontoyn
Aug 25, 2009

by Y Kant Ozma Post


So, uh, wrist problems abound. I took a break from climbing and am trying to boulder v3 atm.

The problem remains where whenever I let go of a jug or block, there is a sharp pain that sort of lighting-bolts through the top of my wrist. Afterwards it radiates dull, minor pain for a couple of minutes and subsides. My wrists straight feel looser afterwards but I'm not sure why. Any thoughts?

tortilla_chip
Jun 13, 2007

k-partite


After you place one for the first time, be sure to kick it. Totally reassuring.

AriTheDog
Jul 29, 2003
Famously tasty.

Fontoyn posted:

So, uh, wrist problems abound. I took a break from climbing and am trying to boulder v3 atm.

The problem remains where whenever I let go of a jug or block, there is a sharp pain that sort of lighting-bolts through the top of my wrist. Afterwards it radiates dull, minor pain for a couple of minutes and subsides. My wrists straight feel looser afterwards but I'm not sure why. Any thoughts?

Go see a doctor and quit climbing on it. That sounds serious.

Covert Ops Wizard
Dec 27, 2006



Fontoyn posted:

So, uh, wrist problems abound. I took a break from climbing and am trying to boulder v3 atm.

The problem remains where whenever I let go of a jug or block, there is a sharp pain that sort of lighting-bolts through the top of my wrist. Afterwards it radiates dull, minor pain for a couple of minutes and subsides. My wrists straight feel looser afterwards but I'm not sure why. Any thoughts?

How long was your break? If it was only a couple weeks it wasn't long enough. Take a longer break, say no less than a month, maybe two, then start climbing not overhanging roped climbs for a few weeks. Ease back into climbing. Also a doctor might be a good person to go see.

JustAnother Fat Guy
Dec 22, 2009

Go to hell, and take your cheap suit with you!

And with a bang it was all over. Managed to completely tear the a4 pulley ligament in my right ring finger off its attachment site on the bone. Was trying a monstrously crimpy route without warming up properly, in reality I really deserve no sympathy. The saving grace was it was the last move on a V12, the downside was it was plastic :smithicide:

But seems I get a good few months of recovery whilst it re-attaches. At least it's a good excuse to get better at crack climbing.

JustAnother Fat Guy fucked around with this message at 16:36 on Apr 9, 2013

PRADA SLUT
Mar 14, 2006

There already is representation of women in board games. Just look at all my titty minis. What more representation do they need?


I got a flapper on my left hand, right underneath my ring finger (where the finger connects to the hand). It was two days ago so it's healed a bit, but still there. What's the best way to tape it up so it doesn't get worse (like what directions would I go with tape, my tape always falls off and isn't effective)? I'm want to climb tonight and will try to avoid jugs with it.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

PRADA SLUT posted:

I got a flapper on my left hand, right underneath my ring finger (where the finger connects to the hand). It was two days ago so it's healed a bit, but still there. What's the best way to tape it up so it doesn't get worse (like what directions would I go with tape, my tape always falls off and isn't effective)? I'm want to climb tonight and will try to avoid jugs with it.

I know it isn't what you want to hear, but I never had good luck taping them. That is an incredibly awkward place to tape, and as your hand sweats the tape will almost certainly release. The only bright side is that I haven't had a flapper in ages - Basically since I stopped climbing juggy stuff.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


Give me advice to get off this v7-8 plateau.

jiggerypokery
Feb 1, 2012

...But I could hardly wait six months with a red hot jape like that under me belt.

PRADA SLUT posted:

I got a flapper on my left hand, right underneath my ring finger (where the finger connects to the hand). It was two days ago so it's healed a bit, but still there. What's the best way to tape it up so it doesn't get worse (like what directions would I go with tape, my tape always falls off and isn't effective)? I'm want to climb tonight and will try to avoid jugs with it.

Don't tape tear off any flapping skin and let it dry. Keep it clean but try to avoid getting it wet. Don't use plasters or any thing, the more air it gets the drier it will be and the quicker it will heal.

JustAnother Fat Guy
Dec 22, 2009

Go to hell, and take your cheap suit with you!

jackchaos posted:

Give me advice to get off this v7-8 plateau.

Anything in particular giving you trouble? When I plateau I generally get other climbers around my level to critique me. Ask climbers for advice, trust me they will gladly dole out the abuse when it comes to your technique and strength. Dave Macleod has a good few theory's on why this happens, but it's all about being smart about it.

Around v8 was when I noticed that my core wasn't very good, so I started doing a pretty nuts core routine to strengthen everything up, which I found on this site: http://coachingendurance.com/blog/2009/01/around-world-core-workout.shtml . This laid me a good base for really getting some serious climbing based core exercises done. After I was able to do 30 reps of each exercise there quite slowly and controlled (which left my drenched in sweat), I started moved onto deadhang legups where you bring your knees up to the bar you are hanging off. Show off exercises like one arm pushups and pull ups are also fairly good for core, and work antagonists. Just remember to do each rep really slowly, the tension is what you want.

jiggerypokery
Feb 1, 2012

...But I could hardly wait six months with a red hot jape like that under me belt.

JustAnother Fat Guy posted:

Around v8 was when I noticed that my core wasn't very good, so I started doing a pretty nuts core routine to strengthen everything up

Check the TRX thread for the best core workouts going

PRADA SLUT
Mar 14, 2006

There already is representation of women in board games. Just look at all my titty minis. What more representation do they need?


armorer posted:

I know it isn't what you want to hear, but I never had good luck taping them. That is an incredibly awkward place to tape, and as your hand sweats the tape will almost certainly release. The only bright side is that I haven't had a flapper in ages - Basically since I stopped climbing juggy stuff.

The only way I've been able to do it is take two pieces of tape on either side of the ring finger and running them all the way down to my wrist, then taping my wrist and taping a ring around my palm and back of my hand. It's awkward and uses a bunch of tape, but it has worked before.

jiggerypokery posted:

Don't tape tear off any flapping skin and let it dry. Keep it clean but try to avoid getting it wet. Don't use plasters or any thing, the more air it gets the drier it will be and the quicker it will heal.

I was going to tape it just for a few hours while climbing. During the day I just put a loose band-aid over it so it can breathe but won't get indadvertedly bumped or anything. I put a tiny piece of gauze over the wound itself so it doesn't get tape stuck to it.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


Off the bat dynamic moves give me trouble I climb pretty calculated and static ie I, love a good crimp to nipple lock off. But as soon as there is a big move I just get shut down.

Stangg
Mar 17, 2009


jackchaos posted:

Off the bat dynamic moves give me trouble I climb pretty calculated and static ie I, love a good crimp to nipple lock off. But as soon as there is a big move I just get shut down.

Campus training?

edit: To wit, I had good success with the power section of this training plan
http://www.climbing.com/skill/your-goal-boulder-harder/

Stangg fucked around with this message at 23:18 on Apr 9, 2013

pbpancho
Feb 17, 2004
-=International Sales=-

Went to Horseshoe Canyon Ranch this weekend, did a little night climbing and brought my camera and 100 glowsticks along...




ZeroDays
Feb 11, 2007

the fuck you know about what i need on my mind mother fucker

I've never had foot odour problems before, and am about to chuck out my few month old evolvs purely on principle. Ugh.

Stangg
Mar 17, 2009


ZeroDays posted:

I've never had foot odour problems before, and am about to chuck out my few month old evolvs purely on principle. Ugh.

Two words: boot bananas.

pokchu
Aug 22, 2007
D:

Stangg posted:

Two words: boot bananas.

alternatively, "not evolvs"

ZeroDays
Feb 11, 2007

the fuck you know about what i need on my mind mother fucker

It's past that point though surely? I mean, they loving stink, and boot bananas are a preventative measure rather than a cure. "Not evolvs" is what I'm going for. Someone said earlier that leather is a better material, so I'll go that route.

Edit: just ordered the boot bananas too.

Frown Town
Sep 10, 2009

does not even lift
SWAG SWAG SWAG YOLO


Just took a bad fall during a lunch time climb bouldering, I think i hyper extended my left arm as I landed on it. Was falling forward and put my arm out on instinct.

What's the best way for healing asap? RICE? Epsom salt bath?

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Where / how / how badly does it hurt?

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



Frown Town posted:

Just took a bad fall during a lunch time climb bouldering, I think i hyper extended my left arm as I landed on it. Was falling forward and put my arm out on instinct.

What's the best way for healing asap? RICE? Epsom salt bath?

Amputation -> cybernetic arm.

Frown Town
Sep 10, 2009

does not even lift
SWAG SWAG SWAG YOLO


armorer posted:

Where / how / how badly does it hurt?

left elbow, inner? Hard for me to extend but I can bend it with a little pain. Can close and open my fist. Hurts a bit, probably like a 6.5/10 if 10 is max, but pain is a little better an hour later

Papercut
Aug 24, 2005

The quickest substitution in the history of the NBA

Frown Town posted:

left elbow, inner? Hard for me to extend but I can bend it with a little pain. Can close and open my fist. Hurts a bit, probably like a 6.5/10 if 10 is max, but pain is a little better an hour later

I did something similar and the doctor said it was most likely an MCL sprain. It's basically the same as a tendon injury, the only really effective treatment is rest.

Stangg
Mar 17, 2009


ZeroDays posted:

It's past that point though surely? I mean, they loving stink, and boot bananas are a preventative measure rather than a cure. "Not evolvs" is what I'm going for. Someone said earlier that leather is a better material, so I'll go that route.

Edit: just ordered the boot bananas too.

They fixed my evolvs after they had turned (bandits), took about two weeks.

In terms of how long they last, they finally lost their effect about 6 weeks ago and I bought them I think July last year.

Stangg
Mar 17, 2009


Frown Town posted:

left elbow, inner? Hard for me to extend but I can bend it with a little pain. Can close and open my fist. Hurts a bit, probably like a 6.5/10 if 10 is max, but pain is a little better an hour later

You should probably go and get it looked at, they will probably xray in case there is a small fracture (not entirely unlikely).

edit: Quote is not edit sorry.

Fontoyn
Aug 25, 2009

by Y Kant Ozma Post


Covert Ops Wizard posted:

How long was your break? If it was only a couple weeks it wasn't long enough. Take a longer break, say no less than a month, maybe two, then start climbing not overhanging roped climbs for a few weeks. Ease back into climbing. Also a doctor might be a good person to go see.

Good advice. Doctor found the problem, some minor inflammation on the tendons because my gripping muscles are overdeveloped and my extending muscles are poo poo. It can be fixed and I can keep climbing as long as I ice it often.

PRADA SLUT
Mar 14, 2006

There already is representation of women in board games. Just look at all my titty minis. What more representation do they need?


Whet do you get boot bananas in the US?

magicalmako
Feb 13, 2005


Fontoyn posted:

Good advice. Doctor found the problem, some minor inflammation on the tendons because my gripping muscles are overdeveloped and my extending muscles are poo poo. It can be fixed and I can keep climbing as long as I ice it often.

Rice bucket workout!

canis minor
May 4, 2011



ZeroDays posted:

It's past that point though surely? I mean, they loving stink, and boot bananas are a preventative measure rather than a cure. "Not evolvs" is what I'm going for. Someone said earlier that leather is a better material, so I'll go that route.

Edit: just ordered the boot bananas too.

After the advice from this thread I must say that boot bananas pretty much taken care of the problem - the smell went from "i need to air my room" to non-existant (so, don't think it's only when your shoes are fresh and clean). I must pre-warn though, the smell of bananas is pretty intense in itself (when I received the package I could smell it through the plastic and the wrapping paper), so if you're sensitive to intense smells (I am) still keep them somewhere hidden - the smells should neutralize each other after a week or two.

Ordered from http://www.bananafingers.co.uk/, they do international shipping, though I guess 12 is a steep price to get this thing only.

ZeroDays
Feb 11, 2007

the fuck you know about what i need on my mind mother fucker

My shoes are at the point of having to be stored in a lead casket, as they can drop small children within 10 feet, so I'll report on the bananas once I pick them up from the post office and try them for a week or so. Also, I stored them on the windowsill (because gently caress them ponging up my flat) and they got rained on. Damp shoes smell far worse.

Stangg
Mar 17, 2009


ZeroDays posted:

My shoes are at the point of having to be stored in a lead casket, as they can drop small children within 10 feet, so I'll report on the bananas once I pick them up from the post office and try them for a week or so. Also, I stored them on the windowsill (because gently caress them ponging up my flat) and they got rained on. Damp shoes smell far worse.

bananas have a drying agent in them to soak up moisture so have no fear!

ZeroDays
Feb 11, 2007

the fuck you know about what i need on my mind mother fucker

I got the bananas and stuck them in my shoes 36 hours ago, and they've worked a loving charm. I was ready to toss the shoes as even while I was standing up straight, the smell was unbearable. Now I can stick my nose in them and barely wince. Yeah, I smell it, but it's SO much better. Can't recommend them enough. 12 well spent.

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canvasbagfight
Aug 20, 2005
renovating. please excuse our mess.

Climbing my weakness of severe overhangs via 4x4 routine and resting on the wall has been amazing.

As I'm getting more into outdoors climbing, I'm looking into getting some decent approach shoes. I think I'm down to between the 5.10 Guide Tennies and La Sportiva Xplorers. Yes, I realize I probably don't need them. I still want them. Any thoughts? Am I missing a good alternative? I'd love some Gandas but I'm just looking to get my feet wet, here. Castle Rock was fine, but Pinnacles had a lot of hiking both to and down from routes with a lot of sketchy terrain for my sneakers.

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