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spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



gamera009 posted:

I was hoping to hit the area around 9:30-10am. That sound good for you?

I will check with the wife tonight to make sure she doesn't have anything planned and let you know.

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gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



spwrozek posted:

I will check with the wife tonight to make sure she doesn't have anything planned and let you know.

Got a report for satellites: wet. No bueno, señor. You okay to switch it up to some sport climbing, or you want to keep it bouldering?

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Good time today guys. I really had fun. Hope we can do it again. Glad to send those two routes (however easy) and get my arms back into it a bit.

Baldbeard
Mar 26, 2011



Pretty funny, about a month ago my gym made a conscience effort to start down-rating bouldering routes so overall everything would seem much harder. We just had a competition and visit from Sharma, and I swear we down-rated an additional time with our newest routes for the comp.

Crazy seeing people who were working on their first 7s now struggling on 4s and 5s. I'm so confused as to where I'm at now, I feel like I have to go to other gyms just so I know what's going on. All about those numbers!

YourCreation
Jan 4, 2004

A little creative surgery helps turn a few sick pets into a new and improved friend!


Just got back from my first outdoor climbing trip. Seconded a lead up Mucky Gully in Dartmoor yesterday, had lots of practice setting up various anchors, belays, and placing gear etc. Today we went out to Chudleigh and I top roped Reek at the Cow Cave. Was absolutely exhilarating. So nice to be able to put all of my indoor skills into practice outdoors.

Cybor Tap
Jul 13, 2001



Baldbeard posted:

Pretty funny, about a month ago my gym made a conscience effort to start down-rating bouldering routes so overall everything would seem much harder. We just had a competition and visit from Sharma, and I swear we down-rated an additional time with our newest routes for the comp.

Crazy seeing people who were working on their first 7s now struggling on 4s and 5s. I'm so confused as to where I'm at now, I feel like I have to go to other gyms just so I know what's going on. All about those numbers!

Lots of other gyms do it too. Deflation of gym ratings is going to lead to sandbagging of outdoor problems. We'll all be climbing VB if this poo poo continues!!

God I hate grading problems.

henne
May 9, 2009

by exmarx


Cybor Tap posted:

God I hate grading problems.

Covert Ops Wizard
Dec 27, 2006



Ha that reminds me, the gym I work at recently opened a new facility about 30-40 miles away, so all of our route setters were spending all their time there, setting the new walls. That just left one setter for our gym, a teenager who is super nice and an amazing climber, but doesn't seem to remember what a moderate is. I was seeing V7 climbers flailing on V5s. I was watching route climbers used to climbing 5.9-5.10 getting their little hearts crushed on 5.7s. I was watching beginners getting demoralized by bizarre cross-overs and non-positive crimps on V2s. it was brutal.

Now everything's back to normal and we have at least a few setters putting up walls, but it was tough when our only setter was a teenager with a 6ft wingspan who only weighs like a 130 pounds and has a penchant for flashy moves. I can appreciate being forced to do weird moves I'm not used to or brutally difficult cruxes now that they're not the norm in the gym.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



spwrozek posted:

Good time today guys. I really had fun. Hope we can do it again. Glad to send those two routes (however easy) and get my arms back into it a bit.

Funny thing! I went home, ordered up a Black Diamond Half Dome and then gave myself a concussion!

:smith:

If the wether is good, we may hit Bowling Alley to get the two greenhorns you climbed with started on lead outdoors if you're game for more climbing hahaha.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Just let me know when and i will see if I can make it happen.

What routes are you putting them on? It didn't seem like too many easy ones.

spwrozek fucked around with this message at 18:20 on May 7, 2013

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



spwrozek posted:

Just let me know when and i will see if I can make it happen.

What routes are you putting them on? It didn't seem like too many easy ones.

I think there is a 6 or 7 on bowling alley. 9s are probably a bit too stiff for intro lead.

modig
Aug 20, 2002


gamera009 posted:

Funny thing! I went home, ordered up a Black Diamond Half Dome and then gave myself a concussion!
Kickass helmet.

Had a nice day at the Elephant Buttresses on Sunday. We were a bit confused because the 3rd butress is closed, but the sign said nothing abut the 4th. So we walked in along the river to the 4th, climbed the Northwest Face (5.8). It's a pretty cool route, for being so close, it feel more adventure in the sense that the route-finding is kinda hard. Then we setup a top rope on the 2nd Buttress and climbed the two 5.9s there. Classic Finger is ok, but Tough Situation is really cool. It's a hand crack in a dihedral, that starts with a roof, and looks overhanging at time, but is easier than it looks. It was kind of tricky to setup up the anchors for comfortable belays from above, so it took longer than it should have.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



I think there's probably going to be a regular weekend goon climb in the canyon, and bouldering during the week - probably aiming for Satellites.

I know I'll probably be getting out if the weather is nice.

Also, I just fired off an email about some belay specs.

I am going to be that guy.

modig
Aug 20, 2002


I'll try to actually make one of these goon climbs this year. We'll see.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



I am in whenever I can make it. Just let me know the time and place.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



spwrozek posted:

I am in whenever I can make it. Just let me know the time and place.

Might try tomorrow afternoon if it's nice enough, otherwise might just hit BRC to boulder on the exchange day.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

On a similar note, me & the guys from work have been hitting Rockin & Jammin most Tuesdays & Thursdays around 8pm. Not that a crew of six or seven dudes at the gym needs more people, but if you want to say hi and talk gear...

PRADA SLUT
Mar 14, 2006

There already is representation of women in board games. Just look at all my titty minis. What more representation do they need?


Looks like REI is having a sale coming up:

GriGri2 $74
Tarantulace $64
Bluewater non-dry 10.2 rope $145

And 20-25% off Petzl helmets and BD harnesses, (and slacklines)

Covert Ops Wizard
Dec 27, 2006



PRADA SLUT posted:

Looks like REI is having a sale coming up:

GriGri2 $74
Tarantulace $64
Bluewater non-dry 10.2 rope $145

And 20-25% off Petzl helmets and BD harnesses, (and slacklines)

I'm just gonna 3D print a GriGri.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



Going to give Satellites a whirl, if other goons can be bothered to be there at 9am Saturday morning.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

PRADA SLUT posted:

Looks like REI is having a sale coming up:

GriGri2 $74
Tarantulace $64
Bluewater non-dry 10.2 rope $145

And 20-25% off Petzl helmets and BD harnesses, (and slacklines)

This is the time of year that EVERYBODY has a sale. Nothing special about REI.

any colour you like
Jul 19, 2006

Prying open my third eye

I haven't been able to climb much lately after breaking my foot while bouldering. But I have been watching a lot of climbing videos lately, and recently found this video of a guy free soloing in Zion National Park: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LTzVTmEoERI
Fantastic video, and it made me want to get back up the wall as soon as possible. I guess I'll pop some pain killers and do some climbing after work today.

Cybor Tap
Jul 13, 2001



any colour you like posted:

I haven't been able to climb much lately after breaking my foot while bouldering. But I have been watching a lot of climbing videos lately, and recently found this video of a guy free soloing in Zion National Park: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LTzVTmEoERI
Fantastic video, and it made me want to get back up the wall as soon as possible. I guess I'll pop some pain killers and do some climbing after work today.

He really yanks that little tree at the beginning. Still, very cool.

Fontoyn
Aug 25, 2009

by Y Kant Ozma Post


Just a couple of butt shots from my first time climbing outdoors a couple of months ago:





The rock was so cold we filled our chalk bags with handwarmers and had to take way too often so they didn't go completely numb.

Covert Ops Wizard
Dec 27, 2006



Fontoyn posted:

Just a couple of butt shots from my first time climbing outdoors a couple of months ago:





The rock was so cold we filled our chalk bags with handwarmers and had to take way too often so they didn't go completely numb.

I hate climbing in the cold. I'd rather climb slimy choss with rockbears and dropsnakes in the sticky heat of Pennsylvania summer than put my hand on a rock when the ambient temperature is under 60 degrees. Maybe if the rock were in the sun, but it's never in the sun around here.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



Looks like there's another goon outing this weekend. Looking to hit upper satellites.

Should be early saturday morning as long as the weather holds out.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



gamera009 posted:

Looks like there's another goon outing this weekend. Looking to hit upper satellites.

Should be early saturday morning as long as the weather holds out.

Sounds fun but I can't make it this weekend. 5 year anniversary and all.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



spwrozek posted:

Sounds fun but I can't make it this weekend. 5 year anniversary and all.

Celebrate by belaying her. Or giving her the loving spot on Grapple. <3

Chris!
Dec 1, 2004

E

Spent the day climbing at Hound Tor in Dartmoor, England. I've mostly climbed indoors and a little bit of sandstone so this was amazing, my first time doing things like jamming. Hands hurt like hell but it was SO good!

YourCreation
Jan 4, 2004

A little creative surgery helps turn a few sick pets into a new and improved friend!


Chris! posted:

Spent the day climbing at Hound Tor in Dartmoor, England. I've mostly climbed indoors and a little bit of sandstone so this was amazing, my first time doing things like jamming. Hands hurt like hell but it was SO good!

Awesomeness! Shame about the weather recently. I was up at Dewerstone a few weeks ago and it was gorgeous. I take it your sandstone was at Harrison's or Bowles?

Sound_man
Aug 25, 2004
Rocking to the 80s

I've been looking into getting into climbing and have found a gym nearby that looks like it would be a good place to start. What I hoping to get out of climbing besides a fun new hobby is more upper body strength and working my way into ropes skills and descending to further my career. I own a Petzl Navaho Bod harness which is a fall protection and work positioning style harness. Is that too much harness for rock climbing? I am thinking if the goal is to get more comfortable climbing around in my harness for work I should be using my work harness. If it would be to cumbersome I will rent or buy a climbing style harness.

The gym nearby has three auto delay devices which saves me from having to get a friend to come with, maybe once I am ready to move to a different routes I will have a climbing friend to belay me.

PRADA SLUT
Mar 14, 2006

There already is representation of women in board games. Just look at all my titty minis. What more representation do they need?


While I'm sure that technically that harness is safe, you will look completely ridiculous, probably get laughed out of the gym, and it might actually hinder you down the road because it might restrict your upper body motions. I'm not even sure if the gym would let you wear that, gyms tend to be pretty strict on what's allowed or not allowed safety-wise (insurance reasons). I would call ahead and ask.

Petzl makes climbing harnesses though, and they aren't that much. http://www.rei.com/product/809271/petzl-corax-climbing-harness

Black Diamond harnesses are on sale this week at REI as well: http://www.rei.com/product/819452/black-diamond-momentum-sa-climbing-harness

Most gyms will let you rent a harness for a few bucks too, so you don't even need to bring your own.

Sound_man
Aug 25, 2004
Rocking to the 80s

Yea I was a little worried that it might be a bit ridiculous. A 5 pack of passes with gear is only $88 so if I am really into I'll buy one after the 5th time.

Covert Ops Wizard
Dec 27, 2006



That harness does not look like it is designed with the ability to move freely in mind. Most places include the cost of renting a harness with shoe rental, so you might as well use one of theirs.

And trust me, if you actually want to enjoy climbing, you'll rent the shoes.

Sound_man
Aug 25, 2004
Rocking to the 80s

Covert Ops Wizard posted:

That harness does not look like it is designed with the ability to move freely in mind. Most places include the cost of renting a harness with shoe rental, so you might as well use one of theirs.

And trust me, if you actually want to enjoy climbing, you'll rent the shoes.

It is a different sort of movement but you are right probably not the best for rock climbing. I'll rent everything that they offer and buy my own as I grow into it.

Chris!
Dec 1, 2004

E

YourCreation posted:

Awesomeness! Shame about the weather recently. I was up at Dewerstone a few weeks ago and it was gorgeous. I take it your sandstone was at Harrison's or Bowles?

We were so lucky with the weather, it was dry and not too hot, started to spit on the walk back to the car park. It was fantastic, I can't wait to get back!

Yes it's Bowles I've climbed at previously, which was good fun as well but I much preferred the the granite at Dartmoor! I've heard good things about High Rocks in tonbridge wells as well.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



Season is off to a lovely start. Seems like I can send up to V7, but only poo poo here and there rather than anything consistently. On the other hand, I fly through most classic V4s.

I guess it's back to training again. :(

Dumbdog
Sep 13, 2011


Chris! posted:

I've heard good things about High Rocks in tonbridge wells as well.

High Rocks is really good, probably the best southern sandstone but you have to pay to get it. Its £10 at the moment. A season pass is well worth getting. Please dont just jump the fence because access is very fragile.
Probably worth going to when your at about UKtech 5c-6a for routes or 7A for bouldering.

Chris!
Dec 1, 2004

E

Dumbdog posted:

High Rocks is really good, probably the best southern sandstone but you have to pay to get it. Its £10 at the moment. A season pass is well worth getting. Please dont just jump the fence because access is very fragile.
Probably worth going to when your at about UKtech 5c-6a for routes or 7A for bouldering.

Definitely hoping to go when I'm a bit better. The highest I can boulder indoors is 6a currently (and that's only a couple of routes at that grade) - it seems like things scale up pretty drastically when you're outdoors though!

Also I have a ridiculous negative ape index, meaning my arm span is about 5'3". It's not noticeable until I'm climbing with my mate who's the same height as me, 5'7", and he can reach holds that are impossible for me from the same position. We did a measure up and it turns out I've got little dickhead T-Rex arms. Still, at least I can park in disabled bays now. (Not legally, but I feel morally justified).

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Irving
Jun 21, 2003


Sound_man posted:

I've been looking into getting into climbing and have found a gym nearby that looks like it would be a good place to start. What I hoping to get out of climbing besides a fun new hobby is more upper body strength and working my way into ropes skills and descending to further my career. I own a Petzl Navaho Bod harness which is a fall protection and work positioning style harness. Is that too much harness for rock climbing? I am thinking if the goal is to get more comfortable climbing around in my harness for work I should be using my work harness. If it would be to cumbersome I will rent or buy a climbing style harness.

The gym nearby has three auto delay devices which saves me from having to get a friend to come with, maybe once I am ready to move to a different routes I will have a climbing friend to belay me.

The setters in my gym use something similar, but none of them climb in those. You'll be carrying a lot of excess weight and it'll make everything quite a bit harder. It's amazing how much of a difference a few extra pounds makes.

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