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JustAnother Fat Guy
Dec 22, 2009

Go to hell, and take your cheap suit with you!

http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/fatal-accident-on-el-cap

A moment of silence for a fallen brother :smith:

As a fellow big wall climber, I can't think of any worse of a way for the guy to die. Kind of takes a little bit of the fire out of wanting to do the big adventurous ascents.

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Dumbdog
Sep 13, 2011


Chris! posted:

Definitely hoping to go when I'm a bit better. The highest I can boulder indoors is 6a currently (and that's only a couple of routes at that grade) - it seems like things scale up pretty drastically when you're outdoors though!

Also I have a ridiculous negative ape index, meaning my arm span is about 5'3". It's not noticeable until I'm climbing with my mate who's the same height as me, 5'7", and he can reach holds that are impossible for me from the same position. We did a measure up and it turns out I've got little dickhead T-Rex arms. Still, at least I can park in disabled bays now. (Not legally, but I feel morally justified).

I think its more a case of getting used to it. Sandstone is massively different to indoors but once you get the hang of it youll be fine. Even before then if you set up top ropes youll have endless stuff to go on at Bowles and Harrisons. Pigs ear at Bowles is a great one to get on when your ready.
Ape index shouldnt be too much of a problem outside you can find intermediates and there are always more footholds to use.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Denver people climbing this weekend? I think the wife and I are going to canal zone Tuesday morning. Probably be off early Friday if anyone wants to do something.

modig
Aug 20, 2002


Last weekend I went up to Greyrock in Poudre Canyon, kind of near Fort Collins. First off, its really far from Boulder, its 2+ hours of driving, then 60-75 minutes to the climbing. So that wasn't awesome. But the rock was solid, and there are tons of moderate trad route there. A lot of them are kind of run out, at least the ones we did. There is a free guide book pdf online, but it's not super accurate since the bolt wars seem to still exist at Greyrock. We were planning to climb a 7 and a 9 that were supposed to be bolted. The 7 had all 14 bolts removed to revert to a 7-X. Seriously, in first 40 feet I think you could get one lovely piece of gear in about 15 feet up. The 9 apparently has 4 bolts left, which all seemed to be in the first 15 feet, though it is supposed to protect ok with gear. I think there are probably 100+ rocks on Grey Rock, though many aren't in Mountain Project.

We only saw one other set of climbers, and they were free soloing up probably 4th-really easy 5th class terrain. I've never done any soloing, and even I would have soloed what they were doing. So that looked pretty fun too.

You can camp right below the rock, which is pretty tempting. I think it would make for an awesome weekend or 3-day weekend trip. The one problem is that there isn't water very close the the camping, I haven't looked around carefully, but just on the trail we took in you'd have to walk 50-70% of the way back down to get to water.

The hike in is kind of cool, since it's right on the edge of a fire zone from a few years ago, so you get to see lots of different levels of forest and fire damage.

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob

JustAnother Fat Guy posted:

http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/fatal-accident-on-el-cap

A moment of silence for a fallen brother :smith:

As a fellow big wall climber, I can't think of any worse of a way for the guy to die. Kind of takes a little bit of the fire out of wanting to do the big adventurous ascents.

They have a bit more detail on the accident here
http://www.elcapreport.com/content/elcap-report-52013

tortilla_chip
Jun 13, 2007

k-partite

Anyone heading to Ten Sleep this weekend?

Covert Ops Wizard
Dec 27, 2006



Gah! Another tendon injury!

My work schedule is such that I've only had an hour after work to climb. Since work is at the gym it works out, but since I only have an hour I've been neglecting my warm ups. Some soreness and tightness has set in in my left index finger, so looks like I'll be out for a couple weeks at least. Sucks, I was working on some v7/8s! Last time I was at that level an injury knocked me back to projecting v5, heres hoping this one isn't that bad.

pbpancho
Feb 17, 2004
-=International Sales=-

Spent last weekend climbing in the Black Hills of South Dakota. At Mt. Rushmore, the Needles, and Spearfish.









On the summit of Spire One


Definitely need to go back. Lots of easy but really exposed trad like we did on Spire One, and Spearfish was amazing for sport.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



Calling Boulder/Denver climbing goons to meet up at Bowling Alley Sunday morning.

Going to try to hit the rock by 9am. I'll be the one wearing sweet Belay Specs.

Expect super business casual sport.

Unless someone feels like flashing through A Tall Cool One (not me).

modig
Aug 20, 2002


gamera009 posted:

Calling Boulder/Denver climbing goons to meet up at Bowling Alley Sunday morning.

Going to try to hit the rock by 9am. I'll be the one wearing sweet Belay Specs.

Expect super business casual sport.

Unless someone feels like flashing through A Tall Cool One (not me).

I can probably make that.

Ghetto Blaster
Jul 25, 2006



New climber here, just bought my first harness, shoes and belay device. I am about to move to France for the summer where sport climbing will be my primary hobby. I have not done any outdoor climbing really and am taking a private lesson this week to learn the basics of lead climbing and belaying. I've been told the routes will start at around 5a which is about my level in the gym (which i have only been to a hand full of times, am i going to find changing to outdoor routes difficult?

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

I haven't climbed in France, so I don't know any of the areas there. In general though there are a few main differences leading in a gym vs leading outdoors. First is that a lot of gyms set lead routes so that there is never a particularly frightening fall, and the bolts tend to be close together. Leading outdoors you will find bolts are spaced further apart (sometimes quite a bit further) and the falls aren't always clean. (A route may wander left or right significantly, and a fall will lead to a swing since you are far to one side of your last clip.) Sometimes there is a ledge or a tree or something below you and you really don't want to fall. Mostly that affects the mental aspect though, so if you keep your wits about you it shouldn't be a big deal.

The second appreciable difference I would say is route finding. In the gym you are typically either following colored tape or colored holds. You use what they give you, and that's it. Outdoors there is no tape (although there are often chalk marks, which can be misleading) so you just climb whatever works. You often have a lot more usable small foot chips outdoors.

The other differences are mostly rock dependent. Different types of rock have different qualities and tend to present different types of features. Without knowing where you are climbing it's hard to say anything meaningful about it.

Edit: You should also go with someone who has experience leading outdoors. There are serious safety issues to consider regarding the condition of the rock, the bolts, and the anchors. You will also need to know how to clean a route so you can retrieve your draws, which you don't have to do in a gym setting.

armorer fucked around with this message at 20:42 on Jun 2, 2013

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



Welp.

Modig is a beast. Cheers on sending that 11a/b like it was nothing dude.

I wish I had as large an arm span as you. :qq:

In other news, Discomancer is a terrible climber when hung over - but at least there wasn't any pants-pooping or vomiting!

Covert Ops Wizard
Dec 27, 2006



Party till ya poop!

modig
Aug 20, 2002


Thanks for the invite, it was pretty sweet to fit in 3 pitches where I wasn't planning to get any.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



modig posted:

Thanks for the invite, it was pretty sweet to fit in 3 pitches where I wasn't planning to get any.

But did you manage to fit in Iron Man 3? And was it worth bailing on additional pitches? we left after you did :ssh:

modig
Aug 20, 2002


gamera009 posted:

But did you manage to fit in Iron Man 3? And was it worth bailing on additional pitches? we left after you did :ssh:

Yeah I just didn't fit in a shower. I'll just have to go back.

Discomancer
Aug 31, 2001

I'm on a cupcake caper!

Any day I can climb hungover and manage to not be this guy is a good day.

Now I'm going to drink to forget how terrible I was at climbing today.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



gamera009 posted:

Welp.

Modig is a beast. Cheers on sending that 11a/b like it was nothing dude.

I wish I had as large an arm span as you. :qq:

In other news, Discomancer is a terrible climber when hung over - but at least there wasn't any pants-pooping or vomiting!

Sounds awesome. Paintball was fun but I have welts everywhere.

Hopefully I will get out with you guys this next week.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



spwrozek posted:

Sounds awesome. Paintball was fun but I have welts everywhere.

Hopefully I will get out with you guys this next week.

Do we go back to Animal World, or do you want to see Bowling Alley?

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob

Discomancer posted:

Any day I can climb hungover and manage to not be this guy is a good day.

Now I'm going to drink to forget how terrible I was at climbing today.

Ah, the inescapable cycle. Be a terrible climber, drink, get fat, be a terrible climber, etc etc etc.

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob

Although sometimes I go and climb some intermediates in front of new people and feel awesome before I go flail on my projects and cry.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



gamera009 posted:

Do we go back to Animal World, or do you want to see Bowling Alley?

Doesn't matter to me. Just need some climbs to get the groove back and my stamina.

Frown Town
Sep 10, 2009

does not even lift
SWAG SWAG SWAG YOLO


Let me know when you guys are bouldering outside.

I'm too scared of ropes and harnesses. :ohdear:
And hopefully I won't have injured myself that Friday as has been the trend.

myownsavior
Dec 21, 2004

I operate a nuclear reactor.

RRGCC bought 309 acres of undeveloped rock, the Miller Fork Recreational Preserve! The Red keeps getting bigger & better.

http://rrgcc.org/community-news/introducing-miller-fork-recreational-preserve/

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Frown Town posted:

Let me know when you guys are bouldering outside.

I'm too scared of ropes and harnesses. :ohdear:
And hopefully I won't have injured myself that Friday as has been the trend.

It stays light pretty late, maybe an after work thing one of these days.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



I'm always outside every Thursday afternoon. I can easily switch it up to Friday afternoons.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

myownsavior posted:

RRGCC bought 309 acres of undeveloped rock, the Miller Fork Recreational Preserve! The Red keeps getting bigger & better.

http://rrgcc.org/community-news/introducing-miller-fork-recreational-preserve/

Who wants to go set lines?

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob

Frown Town posted:


I'm too scared of ropes and harnesses. :ohdear:


Me too :ohdear:

azreal
Sep 2, 2011



I'm going to have to catch one of these Denver area meets (after buy some gear). It'd have to be on one that isn't overly challenging, though... I am in pretty good shape, but I am inexperienced at climbing.

modig
Aug 20, 2002


azreal posted:

I'm going to have to catch one of these Denver area meets (after buy some gear). It'd have to be on one that isn't overly challenging, though... I am in pretty good shape, but I am inexperienced at climbing.

If you mention before hand I someone (like me) can probably bring gear for you aside from shoes. Or you can swap harnesses/helmet with someone.

modig fucked around with this message at 00:47 on Jun 5, 2013

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



modig posted:

If you mention before hand I someone (like me) can probably bring gear for you aside from shoes. Or you can swap harnesses/helmet with someone.

Only a select few may utilize the awesomeness that is belay specs.

You must be belay specs certified.

Edit: people cool with bowling alley again? I have a couple of friends that are just getting into it that want to join. There's a really good 5.7 up there but we'll need a few pieces. Pretty sure it's Mosquito Burrito.

gamera009 fucked around with this message at 14:22 on Jun 5, 2013

ZeroDays
Feb 11, 2007

the fuck you know about what i need on my mind mother fucker

Ok, so I've started doing steep climbs at the gym, and I suck. I've done plenty of steep stuff, but only bouldering which is, out of necessity, short, so now that I'm doing these longer steep climbs, I just don't have the energy to finish, and I'm back to needing huge jugs to stay on. I have the feeling I should've been tackling these steep climbs from the start to build up endurance, but I'm also convinced my technique must loving suck and that I'm using much more energy than I need. Do I need to work on my core? And is it possible to "rest"on a steep climb or do I just have to power through it as quickly as possible?

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

What grade range are we talking about? It is sometimes possible to rest on steep climbs, but generally only if you have a particularly good hold or really good feet. A lot of upper body strength will obviously help (do pullups to exhaustion on the hangboard after every climbing session.) Also core strength helps because it allows you to transfer more weight to your feet, which saves your arms and back.

Make a point to do a lot of steep climbs, do more pullups, do more crunches, and make sure you are making good use of your feet. Do those things for a while and you should get notably better at steep routes.

Covert Ops Wizard
Dec 27, 2006



ZeroDays posted:

Ok, so I've started doing steep climbs at the gym, and I suck. I've done plenty of steep stuff, but only bouldering which is, out of necessity, short, so now that I'm doing these longer steep climbs, I just don't have the energy to finish, and I'm back to needing huge jugs to stay on. I have the feeling I should've been tackling these steep climbs from the start to build up endurance, but I'm also convinced my technique must loving suck and that I'm using much more energy than I need. Do I need to work on my core? And is it possible to "rest"on a steep climb or do I just have to power through it as quickly as possible?

Sometimes you can find a good rest on oppositional walls, like the steepest wall in my gym has a wall next to it that occasionally you can work a drop knee to pull yourself in and really take your weight of your arms for a few seconds. Otherwise, look for holds that feel really good to lay back on, shake out the opposite arm and chalk up.

One problem boulderers have is they approach roped climbs like sprints rather than marathons. Slow down, with an eye for sequencing. Before you even start, look for good holds up the route that might be good for a rest, or a good couple of breaths before you move. Pick out a few as evenly spaced as possible, and break down the route into chunks. When you hit each spot, pause for a second to find the next "rest" and assess the next sequence of moves to get there, then move on. Repeat. This makes it easier to remember the moves you need to do, and where tough spots are in relation to the easy holds so you can rest according to the demands of the climb. You might want to blitz a hard roof sequence, but slow down or stop and shake out once you find yourself somewhere where you can get your feet under you.

If you're leading you'll kind of learn this as you do it, because finding good holds to clip off of and working your way from bolt to bolt pretty much forces you to sequence. If you start doing this consciously it won't take long for you to do it unconsciously and it wil make it easier to manage your stamina once you do get on the wall.


In other news, at work I was messing around and jumped up to grab a couple of holds and pulled what feels like all the muscles in my neck. God I feel old.

Covert Ops Wizard fucked around with this message at 06:01 on Jun 6, 2013

a foolish pianist
May 6, 2007

(bi)cyclic mutation



Covert Ops Wizard posted:

In other news, at work I was messing around and jumped up to grab a couple of holds and pulled what feels like all the muscles in my neck. God I feel old.

Yesterday was injury day, apparently. I was hanging on a two-finger pocket on a steep problem, moved a little too dynamically, and then something in my palm just started hurting. It's less bad today, but the pain is still there. No bowstringing, so I didn't blow a pulley, but something in there is seriously strained.

I just bought the gym's summer pass a week ago, too. :(

Wor
Oct 21, 2005


a foolish pianist posted:

Yesterday was injury day, apparently. I was hanging on a two-finger pocket on a steep problem, moved a little too dynamically, and then something in my palm just started hurting. It's less bad today, but the pain is still there. No bowstringing, so I didn't blow a pulley, but something in there is seriously strained.

I just bought the gym's summer pass a week ago, too. :(

That could be a lumbrical strain or tear. I did that myself last year.

Good news: only pockets will hurt, so don't pull on pockets the same way!
Bad news: you should still take time off to heal it. Mine was not that bad and I climbed through it after three solid weeks off, but best to see a physio or get a specialist referral if it is really bad.

Anyone else here climb in the Canadian Rockies out of Calgary? The Bow Valley has tons of limestone sport routes, endless choss and scree, and enough waterfall ice to keep you busy for a lifetime.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



If Boulder/Denver people are down for a Sunday climb (this Sunday), it looks like I'll be heading down in the afternoon rather than my usual mornings (hurray I get to sleep in!).

I'm heading up the canyon with a usual climbing partner and some newbies.

Just get in touch if you're down.

ZeroDays
Feb 11, 2007

the fuck you know about what i need on my mind mother fucker

Thanks for the steep climbing tips. I'm climbing at about a 6a+ / 6b level (when little steepness), but one of the easier 5+ steep climbs kicked my rear end. I don't do any exercises for climbing other than more climbing, so it may be time to do some pull-ups and a few other suggestions so that I actually find it restful when hanging on jugs with one arm. I've been at the same level as my partner for the 7 months since we began climbing, though he's beginning to speed ahead, which is demoralising. I'm sure his increased reach helps (he's about 7 inches taller than me) but I can tell I have a lot of ground to cover on technique, especially when I've been compensating for reach up until now.

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a foolish pianist
May 6, 2007

(bi)cyclic mutation



Wor posted:

That could be a lumbrical strain or tear. I did that myself last year.

Good news: only pockets will hurt, so don't pull on pockets the same way!
Bad news: you should still take time off to heal it. Mine was not that bad and I climbed through it after three solid weeks off, but best to see a physio or get a specialist referral if it is really bad.

Anyone else here climb in the Canadian Rockies out of Calgary? The Bow Valley has tons of limestone sport routes, endless choss and scree, and enough waterfall ice to keep you busy for a lifetime.



That looks like exactly where it hurts, and the injury mechanism matches as well. It's probably just a strain, since I'm not feeling any weakness, just a bit of pain.

Got to keep reminding myself that mid 30s aren't quite the same as mid 20s - I'm getting too old to push harder climbs without loads of warmup. Climbing at a university gym, where most everyone is 19-22, doesn't help either.

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