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"Tuna pouch"? I usually just make my own trail mix of cashews, blueberries, salted green beans, and whatever else sounds good in the Dried Foods section of the grocery store. Also cured meats like pepperoni are nice too
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Aug 6, 2020 11:41
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I barely eat anything when at the crag to be honest. Maybe because it's so hot? At most I'll bring a Lara bar or an RxBar. For alpine days, I usually bring a Snickers bar and some energy cubes, maybe a slice of cold pizza. Feast mode + beer at the end of the day is definitely more my MO.
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Aug 6, 2020 23:09
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tuna pouch. They're OK in a tortilla, but not many calories. Rocktown is great, I'm envious that you have such a good spot nearby.
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Aug 6, 2020 23:39
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It's near enough for day trips. I'll wake up and eat a quick breakfast and make a couple sandwiches. Pull up and eat half and take a couple gallons of water with random stuff like fruit and gummy bears and pop tarts. Climb for 2-4 hours and come back and eat the rest of our sandwiches and probably get back home at 4-6am. I also eat yeonggang(sp?). It's a Korean snack thats basically just what's inside mochi/daifuku. Just sugar and red beans I haven't climbed anything out west but oh man this southern sandstone is like what a plastic gym hold wishes it could be. I loving love sandstone. I don't know how you could make a rock better for fondling.
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Aug 7, 2020 01:08
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You guys should really eat food. Caloric intake is a good thing when doing activities.
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Aug 7, 2020 03:33
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Actually I usually just eat a breakfast sandwich on my way and then snack on the trail mix on my way home now that I really think about it. Don't bring the food into the crag with me, but I'm usually not there for more than 3, maybe 4 hours tops
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Aug 7, 2020 03:41
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I'm about some food but I need to switch one of my backpacks to pack more. One of my packs is an adidas tennis backpack that holds a ton of stuff and has a front pouch for rackets that unzips from the bottom that might be perfect for some rope if I ever learn to TR. My other bag is something like an elementary schooler would use. Definitely need to get on the hummus train. Maybe w a loaf or some veggies. I'm sketch about tuna because of mercury. Does anyone have headlamp opinions? I ended up with cheap Chinese LED ones because it was $13 for 2 USB rechargeable ones. Do I really need to drop 30-80 on big name brand headlamps?
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Aug 7, 2020 04:21
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DuK2gO posted:Does anyone have headlamp opinions? I ended up with cheap Chinese LED ones because it was $13 for 2 USB rechargeable ones. Do I really need to drop 30-80 on big name brand headlamps? Just depends on how bright and reliable you want it to be. I always use this: https://www.petzl.com/US/en/sport/classic-headlamps/tikka because I know it will last when climbing in the dark and not wanting to die because it died.
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Aug 7, 2020 04:31
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DuK2gO posted:Does anyone have headlamp opinions? I ended up with cheap Chinese LED ones because it was $13 for 2 USB rechargeable ones. Do I really need to drop 30-80 on big name brand headlamps? As a person who doesn't hesitate to pursue generic options, I'd consider lighting for outdoor activities to be safety equipment and something that should be reliable. With an LED headlamp, there are lots of areas that should be engineered well, like the LED, lens, battery, and head strap. It's very easy for an OEM to skimp on any one of these and if any fail you'll accidentally end up in an epic (less so for the lens but obviously it goes far for beam efficiency and effectiveness). I'd go with one reliable headlamp or 2 that are less so. If looking at name-brand headlamps, you certainly don't need the highest end, or you can find new old stock of the higher end models on eBay too. That said, I also use my headlamp for running, camping, hiking, and home projects so it's more worth it for me with the additional mileage I get from it. Suicide Watch fucked around with this message at 04:51 on Aug 7, 2020 |
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Aug 7, 2020 04:48
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spwrozek posted:You guys should really eat food. Caloric intake is a good thing when doing activities. Kinda depends on the activity. If you’re spending a day sport cragging or bouldering and it doesn’t involve a lot of hiking, and you’re tryna to SEND (i.e. relatively few attempts with lots of rest in between), the caloric demands can be pretty minimal. Most of the time some light snacking and lots of hydration are sufficient. But if you’ve got a long approach or are schlepping between different sectors or are getting a lot of mileage or hauling a bunch of gear for trad or multipitch, then yeah you might need to eat more substantively. DuK2gO posted:I'm sketch about tuna because of mercury. Yeah I generally try to get like skipjack or bonito tuna which have lower mercury concentration than albacore, and don’t eat more than a couple times a week. Can always do sardines or other canned fishies too. DuK2gO posted:Does anyone have headlamp opinions? I ended up with cheap Chinese LED ones because it was $13 for 2 USB rechargeable ones. Do I really need to drop 30-80 on big name brand headlamps? If you’re cragging til sundown or multipitching or camping a lot, I think it’s worth getting a good headlamp. Not having a headlamp can turn an inconvenient situation into a dangerous epic real quick, so you want something you can rely on. I have a Petzl, forget what it’s called, but just whatever their average model is, and I think it was $30-50. I have a hard time imagining a need to spend >$50 on a headlamp but granted I haven’t headlamp shopped in a few years.
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Aug 7, 2020 04:49
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I also canyoneer and a good waterproof headlamp can get there, but is worth it
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Aug 7, 2020 05:42
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Sharks Eat Bear posted:Kinda depends on the activity. If you’re spending a day sport cragging or bouldering and it doesn’t involve a lot of hiking, and you’re tryna to SEND (i.e. relatively few attempts with lots of rest in between), the caloric demands can be pretty minimal. Most of the time some light snacking and lots of hydration are sufficient. Fair point. I don't ever project so I never think about it that way and I am usually doing the big mountain trad adventures.
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Aug 7, 2020 06:07
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up until a couple weeks ago BC was really doing well with covid and the chances of getting it at the gym was basically zero. now i think with the rules they have in place it’s still pretty low but i’m getting a little more weary about being too close to people in the gym other than the people i carpooled with to get there
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Aug 7, 2020 09:20
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I keep climbing days light food-wise too, but heavy on the sugar because I know I'm going to burn it off. Oatmeal w/PB, fruits, nuts, and honey/syrup in the morning. Pbj/or a salad for lunch, and a Rx or cliff bar for a snack, and then a heavy pasta or burrito in the night. I usually bring some sugar electrolyte snacks along too for little punches of sugar during the day, and coconut water to fight off dehydration.
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Aug 7, 2020 16:17
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Welshcakes for the win. 1000 calories of sugar and butter in a packet half the size of a coke can. Decent shelf life, reasonable durability in a rucksack and easy to share. That and a hummus and pepper sandwich, some jerky and a few smashed fruity bar things. Maybe an apple. Not bananas. They get smashed too easily and don't handle the cold. Deep in a pocket somewhere there are a few toffees or boiled sweets for emergencies. Definitely spend a few notes on a decent headtorch. Do it for the light levels, or the weight, or the fact that it'll never turn into a bomb. I got a Petzl Actik now,. Having started using headtorches in the days of the Petzl Zoom, modern ones are just obscenely good.
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Aug 7, 2020 17:51
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I end up taking Stroopwaffles as a high sugar hit snack that doesn't melt/tasted great, plus nuts and berries, and sliced peppers + hummus. I'll always eat a decent breakfast beforehand. It's been good to be able to go climbing outdoors nearly every weekend with this good weather. Been down to Portland (UK), North Wales, South Wales and the Peak District multiple times. Surprisingly it's not been too busy, even when gyms hadn't reopened yet.
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Aug 8, 2020 22:02
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sweek0 posted:I end up taking Stroopwaffles as a high sugar hit snack that doesn't melt/tasted great, plus nuts and berries, and sliced peppers + hummus. I'll always eat a decent breakfast beforehand. I'm so jealous. I live in a desert and our local crag is burned out, and all the gyms are closed, and it's really too hot to get anywhere quickly without waking up at 3 or 5 am or something equally dumb. This is the longest I've been consistently not climbing without being injured and I'm starting to go low key crazy
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Aug 9, 2020 01:28
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My regular climbing partner and I put this up in July. The Spearhead, North Ridge (5.6-5.7), in Rocky Mountain National Park. The climbing was a lot of fun, especially the crux (as we were off route on the last pitch). The descent was an rear end-kicker though. From the base:  Me somewhere near the middle, getting into class 4 terrain:  A classic butt-shot of me leading the 2nd to last pitch, some fun 5.6/5.7 slab. Placed every Metolius TCU I had and not much else until I built the anchor: 
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Aug 9, 2020 15:09
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That looks like a LOT of fun man. Can't wait to get more experience and try multipitch and such.
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Aug 9, 2020 18:59
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Easy multipitch is super fun. There's an 18 pitch 5.9 in Washington that's on my tick list.
Happiness Commando fucked around with this message at 05:34 on Aug 10, 2020 |
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Aug 10, 2020 05:31
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Yeah, alpine multi-pitch when you've got relatively low difficulty technical climbing is just a blast - there's a sense of remoteness, exploration and a level of commitment that's hard to find at close sport crags. The climb is typically the highlight of the day, but there's always a lot that goes into it prep-wise, and day of (researching and memorizing the route, route finding the day of, managing changing conditions in terms of weather, decision making along the way.)
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Aug 10, 2020 15:12
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man i wish i wasn't so afraid of heights, that looks fun as hell
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Aug 10, 2020 21:53
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Aug 10, 2020 22:46
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has anyone here used any antiperspirant cream/sprays/product with methenamine in it? i had a product like that and it was great for a while but at some point it has started irritating my hands and I'm trying to figure out if thats common at all
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Aug 13, 2020 02:33
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I have used antihydral and I use the rhino stuff pretty regularly. What is the irritation you're experiencing like? I would get painful dry skin and cracking at my creases from antihydral, the weaker rhino stuff doesn't do that.
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Aug 13, 2020 04:09
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It feels so drat good to get that "Gotta send this loving problem" addiction again. A friend of mine who crushes V6's and climbs like 8-9's still hasn't gotten this one, so if he can't do it I sure as hell can't. But I spent a good hour+ working on this Sunday and I couldn't even do the second move and now tonight I did it twice  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ex_z81Ejvio Not as nice as your photos, but it feels good to climb again dudes.
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Aug 14, 2020 04:07
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Nice man. That is some cool stuff.
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Aug 14, 2020 13:32
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Nice problem, looks fun! The second move looks pretty tough, it's pretty cool to see you figure it out. I'm guessing there's no way to heel-hook or something on the left to make the reach for the second pinch/crimp? -- Anyone has a good recommandation for a portative hangboard to do actual hangboard training on (not just warming-up)? I might have to start training at work for different reasons. KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 23:35 on Aug 14, 2020 |
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Aug 14, 2020 19:49
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Sab669 posted:It feels so drat good to get that "Gotta send this loving problem" addiction again. A friend of mine who crushes V6's and climbs like 8-9's still hasn't gotten this one, so if he can't do it I sure as hell can't. But I spent a good hour+ working on this Sunday and I couldn't even do the second move and now tonight I did it twice That second move looks brutal. Looks thoroughly interesting!
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Aug 14, 2020 21:41
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God drat, that is a nice looking crag.
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Aug 14, 2020 22:01
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KingColliwog posted:I'm guessing there's no way to heel-hook or something on the left to make the reach for the second pinch/crim? Ha, I can't imagine that'd work but now I want to try it. I've seen some people match on that first upper-right hold, get their left foot up, and then it's basically just a super brutal pistol squat but I don't have the flexibility or strenght for that.
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Aug 14, 2020 23:17
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Electoral Surgery posted:I have used antihydral and I use the rhino stuff pretty regularly. What is the irritation you're experiencing like? I would get painful dry skin and cracking at my creases from antihydral, the weaker rhino stuff doesn't do that. basically i used it for 3-4 months and it was good, got injured, waited a few months before restarting it back up, and then 8-10 hours after application it causes my hands to be so itchy i compulsively scratch them im trying to figure out if i developed a formaldehyde sensitivity or if its just an unfortunate result of the product maybe degrading after being stored badly. generally speaking a 5% concentration of methenamine doesnt actually cause a reaction in people who already have a formaldehyde sensitivity so it seems like it would be really unlikely that im so sensitive that their 4% spray would cause a problem i wrote in to them and theyre sending off a small new sample of it to see, which is kind of them Verviticus fucked around with this message at 00:10 on Aug 15, 2020 |
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Aug 15, 2020 00:06
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Sab669 posted:It feels so drat good to get that "Gotta send this loving problem" addiction again. A friend of mine who crushes V6's and climbs like 8-9's still hasn't gotten this one, so if he can't do it I sure as hell can't. But I spent a good hour+ working on this Sunday and I couldn't even do the second move and now tonight I did it twice Nice! Good effort man Unsolicited beta that could be completely worthless if I’m misjudging the holds, which I probably am. But this is basically just vicarious climbing for me rn so plz indulge After the first right hand move, could you flag your right foot out hard to the right for balance, and pinch/crimp the footchip on the top of the triangular volume with your left hand, then switch feet and get your left foot onto the start hold, and then bump your left hand up to the hold that you’re dyno’ing to in the video? 
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Aug 15, 2020 03:58
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As I've been jumping into more committing trad/alpine climbs, my perception of anchors and anchoring (and where our priorities should be) has been radically changed. This article along with my experiences has really changed my view of anchors: https://americanalpineclub.org/resources-blog/2017/7/31/anchors There's a lot we're taught about equalization/extension/distribution of load on anchoring systems that may not always be explicitly true, as it turns out.
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Aug 17, 2020 19:02
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I am kind of in the school that you should try to make good three point anchors but I have made plenty of 2 point or zero point anchors. Just depends. When you are way out there and fighting the clock things are just different.
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Aug 17, 2020 19:30
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spwrozek posted:I am kind of in the school that you should try to make good three point anchors but I have made plenty of 2 point or zero point anchors. Just depends. When you are way out there and fighting the clock things are just different. Yeah I've seen a few sketchy alpine anchors that were built in the name of "best principles" when there was something like a bomber chockstone that could have been slung in 10 seconds, but with no other gear placements possible near it. I'd rather have come up to see a single slung chockstone than an intricate web of microcams.
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Aug 17, 2020 19:33
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nacon posted:As I've been jumping into more committing trad/alpine climbs, my perception of anchors and anchoring (and where our priorities should be) has been radically changed. This article along with my experiences has really changed my view of anchors: Once I placed 3 good nuts in a crack as an after thougth a cam in an adjacant crack. Yanked on the nuts and they were bomber. Then I sat down on the ledge to belay causing the crack to expand a few mm and all my nuts fell out. Turns out that the ledge I sat down on was in fact a dislodged boulder from the rock face. It's only happened to me once but really hammered home the rule to use multiple features when building an anchor.
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Aug 21, 2020 21:09
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beat9 posted:I did a hike there some years ago in the fall, from Katteratt on the Norwegian side to Abisko on the Swedish side. It's incredibly beautiful and great hiking country, not to mention the fact that all the Swedish cabins sell beer, which is greatly appreciated after a days hike! Shouldn't be too mosquito-y end of august but you never know...
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Aug 21, 2020 21:27
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Sigmund Fraud posted:It bugs me that many of the example pics has gear in one single crack. Times I have had multiple crack systems at an anchor is probably less than 50%.
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Aug 21, 2020 21:50
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Sigmund Fraud posted:It bugs me that many of the example pics has gear in one single crack. I think if one climbs long enough, you live long enough to see most of your fundamental assumptions about the behavior of rocks and anchors challenged in fundamental ways. I broke a seemingly-okay flake with a cam like this when building an anchor, sending a serving-tray sized hunk of rock down at my belayer/follower. I decided on climbing a bit farther to a different anchor stance...
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Aug 21, 2020 21:51
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