Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Verviticus
Mar 13, 2006

Security? Please escort the fan in section 106, row 16, seat 1 out of the building right now and bar him from coming here again!




bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:

They covered it up.

That top out bridge thing was where the top of the slide was so you couldn't even see if anybody was climbing above it lol

i think there were a couple close calls that made them board it up but i went down that slide many times without a problem. you just make a friend make sure its clear no big deal


dude this problem was sick it was basically my friends first dyno too and shes been climbing for three years. she is usually just afraid of them

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Electoral Surgery
Mar 19, 2010


Finally got a weekend outside after a winter that denied us the usual 1-2 sunny weekends in late January and February. Sent a couple good boulders and raised my "most problems done" grade by a v point :toot:

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

Well, weight loss is an amazing thing. Used the lock down to lose some weight and it turns out that being 12 pounds lighter makes a massive difference. It's been only 2 weeks since lockdown ended so I'm still super rusty and still managed to climb as hard/harder than I did before.

Also already checking off one of my goal for the year feels pretty good.

Verviticus
Mar 13, 2006

Security? Please escort the fan in section 106, row 16, seat 1 out of the building right now and bar him from coming here again!




when i dropped 15lb from 210ish to 195ish i jumped two grades but this time i've gone from 195 to 185 so far and havent seen any improvement... hoping that last 5lbs makes the difference

artism
Nov 22, 2011



Part of it is that when youre actively losing weight you have less energy (due to the caloric restriction), but once youve attained the target weight youll be able to up your calories to maintenance. More food = more energy. Dont underestimate the effect of climbing with less energy.

SwashedBuckles
Aug 10, 2007

Have at you!

I touched a rock for the first time in 6 months and it was a disappointing showing. It was super nice to be outside but my fingers and skin are killing me.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



SwashedBuckles posted:

I touched a rock for the first time in 6 months and it was a disappointing showing. It was super nice to be outside but my fingers and skin are killing me.

after 12 months without really climbing I can only imagine the disaster that will be.

Hot Diggity!
Apr 3, 2010

SKELITON_BRINGING_U_ON.GIF


spwrozek posted:

after 12 months without really climbing I can only imagine the disaster that will be.

I can't wait for the flappers dude

Verviticus
Mar 13, 2006

Security? Please escort the fan in section 106, row 16, seat 1 out of the building right now and bar him from coming here again!




artism posted:

Part of it is that when youre actively losing weight you have less energy (due to the caloric restriction), but once youve attained the target weight youll be able to up your calories to maintenance. More food = more energy. Dont underestimate the effect of climbing with less energy.

oddly enough, both times ive been in a significant deficit, i actually feel more energized than normal. hell i think theres a post about it in this thread

edit:

Verviticus posted:

i think im really lucky, because even when i was on a 1000 cal deficit (for the first couple weeks i was trying to lose ~2lb a week) if anything i had more energy. now im around -400 calories and im still probably better than i was before i started losing weight

kinda excited to see if going back to eating maintenance at 190 is going to increase my energy or what

it didnt :(

edit: ah i thought i went from 210 to 195 but i went from 205 to 190 and then gained that back

Verviticus fucked around with this message at 06:00 on Mar 21, 2021

artism
Nov 22, 2011



Yeah thats very lucky. Im sort of the same in that I can go for hours on end without food, but if I dont hit a certain number of calories by the end of the day Im getting 2-3 hours of sleep max. Of course I tend to drastically cut, but Ive since learned and am slowly losing weight this round

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

artism posted:

Part of it is that when youre actively losing weight you have less energy (due to the caloric restriction), but once youve attained the target weight youll be able to up your calories to maintenance. More food = more energy. Dont underestimate the effect of climbing with less energy.

I think you can lose like 1% of your weight a week without much of an impact on performance from what I've read. I'm certainly hoping that when I go back to maintenance/slight surplus I have even more energy though! But honestly up to now the change in my energy level is minimal.

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕


Verviticus posted:

i think there were a couple close calls that made them board it up but i went down that slide many times without a problem. you just make a friend make sure its clear no big deal


dude this problem was sick it was basically my friends first dyno too and shes been climbing for three years. she is usually just afraid of them

It was so fun. So many problems I end up sending and am like "ok great I never have to do that again now" but I'd go back to that one over and over again because it was just so satisfying

Sigmund Fraud
Jul 31, 2005



Spring has finally reached Stockholm so I had to take a day off work. Took the opportunity to explore a new crag. 5 routes and a swim in the Baltic was just what I needed. Turns out I weren't the only one there rope soloing either.

Glad that the outdoor season is finally here.

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕


I was working on this fun green "3 hex" (V3-4) on Saturday



and after one of my burns where I grabbed that jug just above the transition from overhang to sort of vertical, the tip of my middle finger went numb. It's still numb today and I wonder what I hosed up in my hand and if I now have super powers where I can touch extremely hot things with the tip of that finger without feeling any pain.


I also randomly bought a Vancouver guidebook and am sort of curious if it's extremely stupid to go out to a bouldering crag alone (probably stuff with flat/safe landings, and there are a few neat looking above-water traverses that might be fun which are V0 or V1) or if that's a thing people do? I have a coworker who climbs but she is not a part of my circle, but otherwise I don't know anybody to go with

gohuskies
Oct 23, 2010

I spend a lot of time making posts to justify why I'm not a self centered shithead that just wants to act like COVID isn't a thing.

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:

I also randomly bought a Vancouver guidebook and am sort of curious if it's extremely stupid to go out to a bouldering crag alone (probably stuff with flat/safe landings, and there are a few neat looking above-water traverses that might be fun which are V0 or V1) or if that's a thing people do? I have a coworker who climbs but she is not a part of my circle, but otherwise I don't know anybody to go with

It's likely safe especially if the road isn't far from the boulders so you can make it out yourself without too much drama if you have a weird fall and sprain an ankle or something, but you still probably want a pad. There is a huge divergence between gym grading and real life grading of boulders at the lower levels, an outdoor V0 or V1 might be as hard as an indoor V3 or V4 depending on how your gym grades, so don't necessarily expect to be cruising up V0s outside, they might still make you work for it.

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009



I think it's ultimately a matter of personal risk tolerance. I boulder alone, but most of my local crag has pretty safe, flat, open spaces for crash pad(s) and I don't super push myself to the limit solo

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕


gohuskies posted:

It's likely safe especially if the road isn't far from the boulders so you can make it out yourself without too much drama if you have a weird fall and sprain an ankle or something, but you still probably want a pad. There is a huge divergence between gym grading and real life grading of boulders at the lower levels, an outdoor V0 or V1 might be as hard as an indoor V3 or V4 depending on how your gym grades, so don't necessarily expect to be cruising up V0s outside, they might still make you work for it.

No idea about how my gym grades -- my usual gym has their own branded grading system and provides rough conversions to V grades. I do know that in the before-times I once visited a gym in Bellingham WA and was sending V4s before I had ever sent the equivalent of a V3/V4 at my local gym, and the same thing with some place in Syracuse NY

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

It's extremely safe to boulder alone IF YOU MAKE IT SAFE! Just pick boulders that aren't tall and chicken out if the top outs are sketchy until you can come back with a friend.

There's plenty of boulder that I like to do alone and there's pretty much 0 risk involved because they are mostly a traverse and the boulder is like 3 meters tall with easy top out. Or hard boulders that I can may be do 2-3 moves on them so there's no risk of falling since I'm never getting high at all.

Just be smart. Bouldering/climbing is only as dangerous as you want it to be.

In other news, losing weight and training strength religiously while in lock down is the best thing that ever happened to my climbing. Technique is cool and all, but having enough strength to apply technique is also pretty nice.

KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 20:06 on Mar 29, 2021

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕


bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:

I was working on this fun green "3 hex" (V3-4) on Saturday



and after one of my burns where I grabbed that jug just above the transition from overhang to sort of vertical, the tip of my middle finger went numb. It's still numb today and I wonder what I hosed up in my hand and if I now have super powers where I can touch extremely hot things with the tip of that finger without feeling any pain.

Update:

I can now sort of feel my finger and it hurts

Verviticus
Mar 13, 2006

Security? Please escort the fan in section 106, row 16, seat 1 out of the building right now and bar him from coming here again!




you shouldnt have touched all those really hot things

edit: if you end up getting that green i think the yellow beside it isnt actually that much harder with the right beta, especially if you can pinch at all

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009



Dunno if any of you dudes/dudettes like to watch comp bouldering but the USA Team's Men's Finals has some cool problems;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tylgNoKnNvU

Haven't even finished the men's yet but will watch the women's next which I'm sure will be just as good https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HsNdf0e85TQ

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕


I went to my first outdoor crag today (it was raining and it was just off of a hike I was doing but I saw some problems I'm going to definite send next time it's dry)

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009



bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:

I went to my first outdoor crag today (it was raining and it was just off of a hike I was doing but I saw some problems I'm going to definite send next time it's dry)

Weird going from a nice color coded gym to a "figure it out yourself, dummy" environment, isn't it? :v:

I haven't been outdoors since Fall 2019 but I'm going to a new crag 2 hours away tomorrow with some friends. I'm really excited to break my "dry spell" of no outdoor climbing, a new crag to explore, and simply just having a group with a bunch of pads to go with. Historically I always went alone with my 1 pad.

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕


Sab669 posted:

Weird going from a nice color coded gym to a "figure it out yourself, dummy" environment, isn't it? :v:

I haven't been outdoors since Fall 2019 but I'm going to a new crag 2 hours away tomorrow with some friends. I'm really excited to break my "dry spell" of no outdoor climbing, a new crag to explore, and simply just having a group with a bunch of pads to go with. Historically I always went alone with my 1 pad.

The one I got stoked on trying when it's dry is just a crack and the beta is probably "just go up the crack" tbh

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009



Ah, yea, some are definitely more straight forward than others.

Beautiful day at the crag for me, gaddam I didn't realize how much I missed it. And just being in a more comfortable social environment. Like yea sure people still chitchat at the gym, but it's not the same as before the pandemic. And my old group all seems to have disappeared since the gym reopened too. So it was positively lovely to just have a small group to sit around with and climb for a few hours.

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕


I bought an arc'teryx hoodie

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕


That seems like something climbing related I thought I'd post

Everyday Goast
Nov 27, 2011

spoopy



as a babby climber who is too scared to post in this thread: i completed my first 0+ bouldering problem today (I think our gym uses their own rating system so let's just say it's a pretty simple one). still feels like progress !

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008




I'm getting my first vaccine tomorrow and the second one soon after that. I'm super excited to get back to the gym after being away for 2 years; I'm fully expecting to be horrible once I get back

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Slimy Hog posted:

I'm getting my first vaccine tomorrow and the second one soon after that. I'm super excited to get back to the gym after being away for 2 years; I'm fully expecting to be horrible once I get back

Yeah dude. I am looking at restarting my membership June 1 as I will have been fully stabbed and cured by then. Excited to just be at the gym.

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008




spwrozek posted:

Yeah dude. I am looking at restarting my membership June 1 as I will have been fully stabbed and cured by then. Excited to just be at the gym.

On top of it being safe, my company will start re-imbursing my gym membership too, so it will be _free_ for me to suck at climbing

SwashedBuckles
Aug 10, 2007

Have at you!

Im going to bite the bullet and do at least a few in person coaching sessions with the head setter at my gym; any tips/pointers/questions or things I should be asking?

Ive been climbing indoors since June 2016 and outdoors since April 2020 (thanks, COVID!) but had a powerlifting background prior to that. Ive done several V5s and one (likely soft) V6, but Im pretty sure I have the strength to climb much harder than that.

My goal for the coaching sessions is essentially to get feedback on how to apply that strength when climbing, mainly maintaining tension on poor feet when making large moves to bad holds.

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009



SwashedBuckles posted:

Im going to bite the bullet and do at least a few in person coaching sessions with the head setter at my gym; any tips/pointers/questions or things I should be asking?

Ive been climbing indoors since June 2016 and outdoors since April 2020 (thanks, COVID!) but had a powerlifting background prior to that. Ive done several V5s and one (likely soft) V6, but Im pretty sure I have the strength to climb much harder than that.

My goal for the coaching sessions is essentially to get feedback on how to apply that strength when climbing, mainly maintaining tension on poor feet when making large moves to bad holds.

Depending on how hard your gym's grades are compared to mine, I'm in the same boat -- can do most of the V5's they set but I've only gotten one 6 which was very much my style and probably soft by the gym's standards. So I'd say "how to apply that strength" probably isn't your issue? I almost never feel limited by my grip strength, just my own general inability :v: I feel like it's all technique at this level. Which I'm sure they can still help you with!

A friend of mine has been working on her beta reading ability where she'll just refuse to watch people do a given problem she's working on, which I think is probably a very smart idea that I should start doing. It's much easier to bumble through a moves you saw someone else do than it is to actually figure it out on your own, often times. Unless it's just like a boring crimp ladder.

wzm
Dec 12, 2004


Slimy Hog posted:

I'm fully expecting to be horrible once I get back

Climbing comes back pretty quickly, I had a coworker who climbed 5.13-ish in the early 90s (he competed in the Snowbird competitions!), and hadn't climbed at all in the last 10-15 years. He was able to get on 11ish stuff outside within a few days of deciding to get back to it.

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕


Found a good youtuber:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g_cBw2Rf6ug#t=131s

SwashedBuckles
Aug 10, 2007

Have at you!

Sab669 posted:

Depending on how hard your gym's grades are compared to mine, I'm in the same boat -- can do most of the V5's they set but I've only gotten one 6 which was very much my style and probably soft by the gym's standards. So I'd say "how to apply that strength" probably isn't your issue? I almost never feel limited by my grip strength, just my own general inability :v: I feel like it's all technique at this level. Which I'm sure they can still help you with!

A friend of mine has been working on her beta reading ability where she'll just refuse to watch people do a given problem she's working on, which I think is probably a very smart idea that I should start doing. It's much easier to bumble through a moves you saw someone else do than it is to actually figure it out on your own, often times. Unless it's just like a boring crimp ladder.

Im similar indoors - almost all V5s, roughly half of V6s, and maybe a total handful of V7s so far indoors.

I climb at the Central Rock Gyms in MA, which are fairly consistently graded except for Cambridge, which is sandbagged in comparison (but similar to outdoor grading).

Ive noticed that I have trouble holding tension through my feet in comparison to weaker people I climb with, which is what I meant by being strong enough to climb better if I could apply it. An example of strength benchmarks like:
2x BW deadlift (off the couch without training it in years)
1.4x BW 10s max hangs
>1.5x BW pull-ups (ran out of weights)
can muscle up and (mostly) front lever (easily hold with 1 leg tucked)
I dont feel like any particular area is really weak, more like my muscles dont coordinate together properly. I am also pretty bad at all points off dynos.

SwashedBuckles fucked around with this message at 20:18 on Apr 7, 2021

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009



:hfive: Central Rock Buddy. I'm at their Buffalo gym and went to the Worcester gym once and it was much harder - although I was recovering from an injury, and climbed the day prior at Lincoln Woods.

gently caress dynos :v: 2 shoulder injuries in only 2 years of climbing, I don't need to do those problems. Which is a real shame because they're setting a lot of 'em, lately.

Curious to hear what / how much they're able to help you!

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕


A Central Rock Gym in upstate New York (Rochester) was soft enough for me to send V3s in rental shoes before I had ever managed to do the equivalent of a V3 at my gym at home. So either my gym grades sandbaggy (it actually fluctuates, right now it's sorta soft but a while back I couldn't send poo poo) Whatever though, grades are fake and are only practically useful insofar as it's fun to see a number go up

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m fucked around with this message at 22:51 on Apr 7, 2021

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕


BC is hurdling towards needing to shut gyms down so I bought a crash pad before the rush of people who are going to want to buy crash pads before the summer.

I hope I don't see a bug while I'm climbing outside

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Verviticus
Mar 13, 2006

Security? Please escort the fan in section 106, row 16, seat 1 out of the building right now and bar him from coming here again!




at this point i dont even know if these morons know they're allowed to shut things down

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply