Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Papercut
Aug 24, 2005

The quickest substitution in the history of the NBA

guppy posted:

While I'm sure it's fun to be smarmy, this is a misstatement of the issue. You're still using the tools provided on the route, and only those tools. People skip holds further up the route all the time.

The point is that any rule in a sport could be called a silly pointless rule. "Why is the start of the route the start of the route?" is an inane question. No one cares what you do in the gym (or even outside as long as you're not being destructive), so do whatever you want. But if you want to do the route that the route-setter has created, well then do the route.

e: Sorry, I've had a lovely few weeks and clearly I'm responding to that by acting like an rear end in a top hat on the internet. The main reason to do the starts as they're intended (and this can even apply to not skipping holds) is that they may force you to develop skills/muscles that you otherwise might not have.

Papercut fucked around with this message at 01:25 on Oct 4, 2013

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Mr. Merdle
Oct 17, 2007

THE GREAT MANBABY SUCCESSOR



I don't think I've ever posted in here since the first iteration of this thread, but I'm fuckin' psyched that I sent my first V5 yesterday. I've been climbing on and off for probably a decade now, and before my last year and a half break I was doing 3's and 4's. Seeing some real improvement in my technique and strength has made me feel great. :woop:

asur
Dec 28, 2012


guppy posted:

While I'm sure it's fun to be smarmy, this is a misstatement of the issue. You're still using the tools provided on the route, and only those tools. People skip holds further up the route all the time.

It's not equivalent to skipping a hold though, it's more like using a hold that's not on your route as the ground also isn't on the route.

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob

Last_Ranger posted:

I don't think I've ever posted in here since the first iteration of this thread, but I'm fuckin' psyched that I sent my first V5 yesterday. I've been climbing on and off for probably a decade now, and before my last year and a half break I was doing 3's and 4's. Seeing some real improvement in my technique and strength has made me feel great. :woop:

Keep it up buddy!

Cybor Tap
Jul 13, 2001



Its a good question. Setters set problems because they're amusing and force you to do some cool moves. We all follow the same rules because they've been agreed upon and you could be missing some pretty rad sequences.

What if a route started with a 5 foot horizontal traverse before it went up? Sure you could just skip the traverse and hop on where you want, but its agreed upon that you haven't successfully completed the route all the way through.

That being said, We have one boulder problem in my gym that's really good except the first move is horribly inconsistent (difficulty wise), and just plain not fun. I tell all my students to skip the move and do the rest.

We've all AGREED that the first move is a horrible pile of dog doodoo.

Grisly Grotto
Jun 17, 2003

Are sure you should fight tonight? You don't look well.


gimpsuitjones posted:

Hey I'm pretty much totally new to this, have wanted to get into climbing for ages but never done it. Are there any Brisbane, Australia, climbers who can help me out? I'm fit, NZer, work FIFO out of town 15/6. So I'm looking for something to do on my weeks off work and I don't really know anyone in town.

Hey, I'm a climber who lives in Brisbane. Still fairly new so dunno exactly how well I'll be able to help out but drop me a pm or something.

On another note, do any of you guys do much low-angle frictiony slab? I was out this weekend trying some and it's.... different. The stuff I tried was probably around 15 degrees from vertical. Wasn't too bad on some of the lower graded routes I tried, but after those I had a shot on top-rope at a route graded 20 (roughly 5.11a in american) and it was ridiculous. For the first half of the route I basically had to just lean in and smear off everything with all available bodyparts.

Didn't help that it wasn't the most heavily trafficked crag, so there was loads of dried out moss that acted more or less like grease all over the cliff. Still, I had fun trying something different :)

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

From my experience a lot of climbers don't like slab. The biggest issue with it is that if you are lead climbing, falls are always unpleasant because you slide against the rock the whole way down. That said, there is a place a few hours from me that has a bunch of bolted slab routes and it can be fun from time to time. Your observations are spot on though, slab climbs (particularly in the higher grades) generally require a lot of precarious balance and smearing.

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob

I can't say this enough.

gently caress.

Slab.

A 5.11 slab sounds like literal hell.

The Supreme Court
Feb 25, 2010

Pirate World: Nearly done!

Did my first outdoor lead yesterday, that was exhilarating! I was pretty much terrified at every clip, felt like my heart was going to beat through my chest at the final bolts. It's incredible how a hold that you'd find secure as hell on another route transforms into an unstable death grip, just when you go to clip in.

I'm doing that again as soon as possible.

Grisly Grotto
Jun 17, 2003

Are sure you should fight tonight? You don't look well.


TotallyUnoriginal posted:

A 5.11 slab sounds like literal hell.

I was laughing as I was going up as half the time I wasn't quite sure how I was still attached to the wall.

It was less funny when I was leading on an easier route and hit the crux 2m past a bolt. Sliding 5 or so metres down the wall didn't seem like fun, had to downclimb and have a bit of a think about it before I went for it.

modig
Aug 20, 2002


armorer posted:

From my experience a lot of climbers don't like slab. The biggest issue with it is that if you are lead climbing, falls are always unpleasant because you slide against the rock the whole way down. That said, there is a place a few hours from me that has a bunch of bolted slab routes and it can be fun from time to time. Your observations are spot on though, slab climbs (particularly in the higher grades) generally require a lot of precarious balance and smearing.

You know, I've heard this about slab falls, but all my actual slab falls have been totally chill. I've never taken a bit slab leader fall, but like a 6-8 foot fall has been fine. Has anybody actually seen the dreaded cheese grater fall?

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



I think slab is super fun. I have never had a bad fall either. Maybe a scrapped knee.

I think it is interesting to have to balance and smear like crazy. It is a fun difference to the climbing game.

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


modig posted:

You know, I've heard this about slab falls, but all my actual slab falls have been totally chill. I've never taken a bit slab leader fall, but like a 6-8 foot fall has been fine. Has anybody actually seen the dreaded cheese grater fall?

One of my buddies took three (3) falls leading on a particular low-angle route in Garden of the Gods, and just got scraped up a little. They looked a lot scarier than they actually were.

I've easily finished 5.10a-b on sandstone or granite slab, but can't for the life of me even finish a 5.9 at Shelf Road (super-pockety but very vertical/overhung limestone). :shrug:

eta: I think it's because I'm a dumb weak babby with my upper body strength, which I'm working on.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

modig posted:

You know, I've heard this about slab falls, but all my actual slab falls have been totally chill. I've never taken a bit slab leader fall, but like a 6-8 foot fall has been fine. Has anybody actually seen the dreaded cheese grater fall?

I've never taken a cheese grater fall, but I am pretty cautious on slab and try to fall in a semi controlled way. I took one "fall" where I basically slid down the slab on my toes. It took a month's worth of rubber off my shoes and I could smell that they had burned a bit!

pbpancho
Feb 17, 2004
-=International Sales=-

modig posted:

You know, I've heard this about slab falls, but all my actual slab falls have been totally chill. I've never taken a bit slab leader fall, but like a 6-8 foot fall has been fine. Has anybody actually seen the dre aded cheese grater fall?

Fell at least 30ft at Joshua Tree, on an insanely runout slab. It wore the toes of my shoes to nothing, tore up a knee without tearing my pants at all, and wrecked the forearms of the hoodie I was wearing. I was very glad I wasn't in short sleeves. Slid perfectly on my toes and forearms the whole way.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



modig posted:

You know, I've heard this about slab falls, but all my actual slab falls have been totally chill. I've never taken a bit slab leader fall, but like a 6-8 foot fall has been fine. Has anybody actually seen the dreaded cheese grater fall?

Nope. Even when I've hit 5.12a or .11b/c slab, falls aren't a big deal since you instinctively push out with your hands. I've taken a 10 foot leader fall before with no real ill effect, other than a little roughing on the palms and a knee.

beat9
Aug 19, 2005



Does anyone have any good strength exercises to recommend? I've been climbing indoors for about 6 months and I'm looking to improve my core especially. I climb two or three times a week, mostly bouldering and I'd like to complement that with some strength exercises. Lately I've been finding that aside from learning a couple of neat techniques my core is probably what needs most work.
I've been reading a bit around the net, and it seems most people don't recommend heavy strength exercises as you risk becoming too large, or heavy rather.
I think my arms and legs have a pretty good progression, and I know for a fact that ever since I started using straight arms my back and shoulders have been getting a pretty decent workout.

VagueRant
May 24, 2012


I'm doing some indoor climbing tomorrow and it's been a while, so I had a couple of questions. I remember my double figure of eight knots and belaying safety stuff.

But is there a rough guide about where on the rope you should start your figure of eight? (I seem to recall being told to dangle the end of the rope from your waist to the floor?)
How much of a tail should be sticking out of the knot?
And how tight should the...Noose (as in the loop going through my two harness loops) be?

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



VagueRant posted:

I'm doing some indoor climbing tomorrow and it's been a while, so I had a couple of questions. I remember my double figure of eight knots and belaying safety stuff.

But is there a rough guide about where on the rope you should start your figure of eight? (I seem to recall being told to dangle the end of the rope from your waist to the floor?)
How much of a tail should be sticking out of the knot?
And how tight should the...Noose (as in the loop going through my two harness loops) be?

I pull at least one arm's length of rope and tie the knot off there. I keep the knot tied through both loops (that secure the belay loop to my harness) tight enough that I can't shove a fist through the rope loop I'm being belayed on. As for the tag end of the rope, I keep enough that when I use a Yosemite finish, I have at least 5-6 inches of tag end left.

To each their own. Some people say to never use the Yosemite finish and tie a fisherman off the tag end. Up to you/your gym.

Grisly Grotto
Jun 17, 2003

Are sure you should fight tonight? You don't look well.


VagueRant posted:

But is there a rough guide about where on the rope you should start your figure of eight? (I seem to recall being told to dangle the end of the rope from your waist to the floor?)
How much of a tail should be sticking out of the knot?
And how tight should the...Noose (as in the loop going through my two harness loops) be?

- from my right hand to left shoulder is usually about right, I guess that depends on how long your arms are though
- two fists bare minimum. If you have enough to tie a stopper (ie. double fishermans) that's about right. If you too much tail you can turn it into a triple
- quite tight, if you can get a fist in easily it's probably too loose

Papercut
Aug 24, 2005

The quickest substitution in the history of the NBA

beat9 posted:

Does anyone have any good strength exercises to recommend? I've been climbing indoors for about 6 months and I'm looking to improve my core especially. I climb two or three times a week, mostly bouldering and I'd like to complement that with some strength exercises. Lately I've been finding that aside from learning a couple of neat techniques my core is probably what needs most work.
I've been reading a bit around the net, and it seems most people don't recommend heavy strength exercises as you risk becoming too large, or heavy rather.
I think my arms and legs have a pretty good progression, and I know for a fact that ever since I started using straight arms my back and shoulders have been getting a pretty decent workout.

Planks, side planks, L-sits, boat pose. Yoga classes are a good place to start, half of the poses in yoga involve core work. I think lifting weights is fine, lots of really good climbers in my gym do it.

Shine
Feb 26, 2007

No Muscles For The Majority


Weightlifting doesn't make you large, it makes you strong. Eating lots of food makes you large. Being strong makes everything easier, so yes, go lift weights.

Read the General Thread and do any of the weightlifting programs in there (pick whichever sounds most fun, don't overthink it; no seriously, don't overthink it). Between that and climbing (especially overhanging poo poo, keeping your body stable and tight), your "core" will be fine. finish your workouts with some planks if you really wanna but I seldom bother.

Shine fucked around with this message at 14:34 on Oct 8, 2013

ZeroDays
Feb 11, 2007

the fuck you know about what i need on my mind mother fucker

My climbing partner injured his hand again (don't dyno onto two finger pockets after only a year's climbing) so back to bouldering for me I guess. I'm far less motivated to go bouldering on my own, as it doesn't have the accountability wall-climbing does and I only last 20-30 mins. gently caress.

Headhunter
Jun 3, 2003
One - You lock the target

ZeroDays posted:

I only last 20-30 mins. gently caress.

I only boulder but I have the same problem when I go by myself. I'm gradually learning to take a rest after each attempt at a problem that's at least as long as I spent on the wall. It's hard though.

guppy
Sep 21, 2004

sting like a byob

Yeah, if I'm just bouldering I'll often be there for half or less of the time I would be if I were top-roping. Sometimes I'll spend some time on the hangboards or whatever those days though. (EDIT: And remember, your time bouldering on the wall is just you. Top-rope and lead time is split between you and your partner.) Does your gym do the trade-a-belay thing? My gym has a board where you can write your name and what you're wearing so people can find you, and I'll put myself up there and start bouldering and see if anyone comes to find me to partner up. I've met people a few times that way.

I wonder if we could put together a list of the general areas of regulars in this thread -- we could maybe find partners that way, either for one-off meetups or to find regular partners, a la Climbfind.

I'm starting to climb 5.9s regularly. Think I might look into a lead class soon.

guppy fucked around with this message at 17:09 on Oct 8, 2013

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob

beat9 posted:

Does anyone have any good strength exercises to recommend? I've been climbing indoors for about 6 months and I'm looking to improve my core especially. I climb two or three times a week, mostly bouldering and I'd like to complement that with some strength exercises. Lately I've been finding that aside from learning a couple of neat techniques my core is probably what needs most work.
I've been reading a bit around the net, and it seems most people don't recommend heavy strength exercises as you risk becoming too large, or heavy rather.
I think my arms and legs have a pretty good progression, and I know for a fact that ever since I started using straight arms my back and shoulders have been getting a pretty decent workout.

Weightlifting is fine, climbers are just judgmental sometimes. Do some body weight stuff like planks and side planks along with a basic lifting program.

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


ZeroDays posted:

My climbing partner injured his hand again (don't dyno onto two finger pockets after only a year's climbing) so back to bouldering for me I guess. I'm far less motivated to go bouldering on my own, as it doesn't have the accountability wall-climbing does and I only last 20-30 mins. gently caress.

Go to a gym with an auto-belay so you can be terrified all the time!

Wor
Oct 21, 2005


TotallyUnoriginal posted:

Weightlifting is fine, climbers are just judgmental sometimes. Do some body weight stuff like planks and side planks along with a basic lifting program.

Weightlifting is good (I do a bit of my own), but developing strength and climbing skills at the same time is better. Here are some climbing ideas:

Exercise progression to full front levers -> hanging leg raises, full leg raises (feet to bar) or curl ups, half levers, full levers.
Start inverted (feet up, head down) on rings for half levers if you have access to them, and lower into a half lever as far as you can, hold, come back up, switch legs, repeat. Helps to have a partner to push you back to inverted position if your butt sags or you start to fail. Always lower to failure at end of set.

Anti-swing core training
Climb on big jugs and easy holds through an overhanging bouldering cave. Drop both feet off footholds, control your swing!!! put feet back on. Use the medium to smaller footholds. Repeat and climb until core blows up.

Hanging toe touches
Hang on a long good handrail type hold, or two jugs at the same height, or a pull-up bar. Pull-up into a half-pull up, kick right foot up right and high to one side, as far to the side as you can. Try to reach the same height as your hold. It helps to have a target to aim for (on a wall, along the handrail hold). Switch legs, kick left foot out to the right side. Control your swing as you switch legs. Lower pull-up, pull up again, repeat opposite side. Continue until failure.

Bodyweight exercises with good tempo and form is also good core training (dips, pull-ups, feet-elevated push-ups, etc). Wear a harness and add weight to your pull-ups and dips if you can take it.

azreal
Sep 2, 2011



Save me jeebus posted:

Go to a gym with an auto-belay so you can be terrified all the time!

What's wrong with auto-belays?

SystemsAligned
Aug 10, 2013


guppy posted:

I wonder if we could put together a list of the general areas of regulars in this thread -- we could maybe find partners that way, either for one-off meetups or to find regular partners, a la Climbfind.

This is a good idea! I want to meet all the ppl climbing at Planet Granite in San Francisco!

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


I want to meet people on the central coast!

Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004



I've just finished a two day course and I'm familiar with the safety rules. We spent a few hours on technique, but could I get some clarification please? My trainer suggested that climbing with straight arms and your butt low was better because you're not expending any energy holding your upper body in a given position. This makes sense objectively, but realistically I can't see how it works while actually climbing - surely the majority of the time you're either standing on a hold and moving your arms or feet, or you're ascending/traversing by using your legs (and so you're pushing up along your centre of gravity?)

Obviously this isn't a life or death question, but I'm just curious as to when his original point applies.

dex_sda
Oct 11, 2012




Southern Heel posted:

I've just finished a two day course and I'm familiar with the safety rules. We spent a few hours on technique, but could I get some clarification please? My trainer suggested that climbing with straight arms and your butt low was better because you're not expending any energy holding your upper body in a given position. This makes sense objectively, but realistically I can't see how it works while actually climbing - surely the majority of the time you're either standing on a hold and moving your arms or feet, or you're ascending/traversing by using your legs (and so you're pushing up along your centre of gravity?)

Obviously this isn't a life or death question, but I'm just curious as to when his original point applies.

You do that when looking for a new hold. If you've got a route plan perfectly memorized, you are right, you won't use that bit of advice. If you aren't a route-planning robot, you'll use it constantly.

guppy
Sep 21, 2004

sting like a byob

You also tend to bend your arms and death grip yourself in when you're tense, and it wastes a lot of energy. You'll find your arms get much less tired (because you're using them less, in favor of your legs) if you take his advice.

Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004



Thanks both, I understand a little better now.

Papercut
Aug 24, 2005

The quickest substitution in the history of the NBA

SystemsAligned posted:

This is a good idea! I want to meet all the ppl climbing at Planet Granite in San Francisco!

I'm at PG Friday during the day, Sunday morning, and Tuesday night. Bouldering only, but if you want to teach me to belay then I'm happy to learn. I've barely been climbing at all for a few months though because I'm busy as hell and feel like I get a better quick workout in the yoga classes.

Shine
Feb 26, 2007

No Muscles For The Majority


Does anybody else climb at Portland Rock Gym?

guppy
Sep 21, 2004

sting like a byob

I'm in the Baltimore area climbing at EarthTreks right now.

I know this was my idea, but I wonder if we should find an out-of-thread way to do it.

PRADA SLUT
Mar 14, 2006

There already is representation of women in board games. Just look at all my titty minis. What more representation do they need?


Shine posted:

Does anybody else climb at Portland Rock Gym?

I do sometimes, I go to the Circuit a lot more though since I usually climb alone and the handful of auto belays and little bouldering area at PRG isn't usually worth it to me.

The Circuit is having the Portland Bouldering Rally this weekend.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Frown Town
Sep 10, 2009

does not even lift
SWAG SWAG SWAG YOLO


guppy posted:

I'm in the Baltimore area climbing at EarthTreks right now.

I know this was my idea, but I wonder if we should find an out-of-thread way to do it.

Timonium Earth Treks? That place was my stomping grounds before I moved to Boulder. It's a great gym! Will be visiting Baltimore next week and probably will climb Fri afternoon.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply