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jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


I second working your knee since every beta ever can be destroyed with a good drop knee.

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Papercut
Aug 24, 2005

The quickest substitution in the history of the NBA

semicolonsrock posted:

So I can't climb again until awhile after the knee surgery I'm getting soon. Any suggestions for good work outs so I can get back into bouldering without losing literally all of my strength? I've been doing lots of pull ups, but I'm sure there's a lot more I could be doing.

I just do tons of yoga whenever I'm injured (like right now :mad:). Keeps your shoulders and core super strong and lets you work on balance as well. A good teacher will show you how to modify everything to account for the knee.

a foolish pianist
May 6, 2007

(bi)cyclic mutation



ante posted:

I'm in Thailand right now with no equipment. Where should I go climbing

Tonsai beach. You should be able to rent or buy whatever you need there.

ZeroDays
Feb 11, 2007

the fuck you know about what i need on my mind mother fucker

I've never climbed outdoors, and I always think to myself while climbing in the gym, "there's no way holds as big and convenient as this exist in nature". Is that pretty much the case? That is, if I were to take my level of climbing and translate it to outdoors, I'd struggle because holds are just way less juggy/positive/convenient etc (to say nothing of them being far less salient and harder to spot)?

deck
Jul 13, 2006



You're right: Not having taped holds will instantly cause your onsight grade to drop, until you adjust.

How much depends on the area. Some places get lots of traffic and the best holds are chalked up. Usually the lovely holds are chalked up too, so have fun with that. Other places don't hold chalk as well, to the point where onsighting can be extremely hard relative to the physical difficulty.

As for jugs, yes there are huge jugs in nature. You'll be glad too, because pitches outdoors are going to be pushing around 80 feet tall, which is twice as tall as your average gym route.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


the hardest transition for a gym rat to outside climber is feet. You have so many options yet no options in sight.

Phosphene
Aug 11, 2008
I'M NOT TRYING TO GET BIG AND BULKY OKAY WE ALL FAIL DIFFERENT GOALS

jackchaos posted:

the hardest transition for a gym rat to outside climber is feet. You have so many options yet no options in sight.

This pretty much. You put your toe on something and think, "This'll never hold me..." You do that to like 10 different little chips and finally you go back to the original and just go for it. And it holds. Then you lose faith in your feet and start over again. At least, that was my first experience. It was great.

Cybor Tap
Jul 13, 2001



jackchaos posted:

the hardest transition for a gym rat to outside climber is feet. You have so many options yet no options in sight.

Bingo.

I've also found two major differences being first that in a gym, the holds sort of flex on the wall as they're just screwed in. Outside will rip up your hands really quick. Second, in the gym the holds jut out from the wall, where as outdoors you're reaching in to holes in the rocks. It just feels to me that you use different muscles.

Pander
Oct 9, 2007

Fear is the glue that holds society together. It's what makes people suppress their worst impulses. Fear is power.

And at the end of fear, oblivion.





The gym I'm using has typical holds, plus the molded rock with holds, and then a bare bones wall with no holds at all, just simulated rock. I've found I've been tearing up my hands a LOT more using the non-holds rock, especially parts of my thumbs. Lots faster in the callous-building department. More fun too, actually following the cracks is a lot of fun I'd never experienced back at holds-only Upper Limits. Hoping this'll help somewhat when I hit nature this summer.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


Only downside to premade rock wall from a setters standpoint is that there is no variation. You cam only climb it so many ways.

Quijybo
May 23, 2006



ZeroDays posted:

I've never climbed outdoors, and I always think to myself while climbing in the gym, "there's no way holds as big and convenient as this exist in nature". Is that pretty much the case? That is, if I were to take my level of climbing and translate it to outdoors, I'd struggle because holds are just way less juggy/positive/convenient etc (to say nothing of them being far less salient and harder to spot)?

Real rock is a lot easier to hold onto, so tiny or slopey holds feel more useful. I especially get a lot more out of my feet. To me, spending a weekend climbing outdoors and then going back to a gym / artificial wall makes everything feel kind of slippery and terrible in comparison, even simulated rock walls that are supposed to feel real. The downside is that it rips your hands up much faster.

I think the more important thing is like you said: holds are harder to spot and moves are less obvious. You can look for chalk on the wall to mark where the holds are but not every useful hold is chalked up. The safety and scariness factors make outdoor seem more difficult as well: the height, the hard ground, wind, unfamiliarity, etc. It's just a much different feeling than climbing in a cushy, safe gym.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Quijybo posted:

Real rock is a lot easier to hold onto, so tiny or slopey holds feel more useful.

I think this really depends on where you climb outdoors. Some rock feels "soapy" and quite a bit more slippery than your typical gym holds. Also outside you have to deal with dirt and plants on the route, hazards like birds and hornets nests, and of course: weather. Climbing multi-pitch sport routes in the summer sun is always fun. You bake while on the wall climbing, and then you have to take off your shoes while belaying so your feet don't burn up from all the heat the rubber soaks in.

I guess what I am saying is that when you climb in a gym, you just get on the rope and climb. You don't really have to think about much of anything. When you climb outside though, there are a million other things going on. (For better or worse.) The physical act of climbing is more or less the same, but the experience is entirely different.

Quijybo
May 23, 2006



Yeah, you explained that better than me. I've climbed at quite a few places in CO, UT, OH, WV, and KY, so that's based on my experiences there. I try not to climb outside unless it's nice and dry.

I should have also mentioned the bees and spiders...

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


Never stick to one type of climbing either. Try it all if you get a chance. Bouldering, sport, and trad are all so different. As well as challenging and fun in their own way. I started bouldering but honestly there is nothing like being 6 pitches up on a mountain.

Discomancer
Aug 31, 2001

I'm on a cupcake caper!

Nothing at the gym really prepares you for a mono that squishes when you stick a finger in it :gonk:

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



Discomancer posted:

Nothing at the gym really prepares you for a mono that squishes when you stick a finger in it :gonk:

That means one of two things:

1) Your finger is fat. Lose some weight fatass. :smugdog:
2) A kid was climbing that route. You know what the squishy poo poo is. :negative:

YourCreation
Jan 4, 2004

A little creative surgery helps turn a few sick pets into a new and improved friend!


My goal for the year is to enter a bouldering competition by the end of the year. I do not expect to do really well, just enter. I have The Self Coached Climber, 9 out of 10 climbers, and will be climbing at The Castle and Mile End in London. I have been indoor climbing at an amateur level for about a year now and have had some private instruction. I might do a few personal training and coaching sessions to mark progress. Following YLLS nutrition guide and doing lots of free weights in the gym to lose weight and gain some power. Wish me luck goonies.

Stangg
Mar 17, 2009


If you're indoor Bouldering in London I would really recommend the arch 2 as the place to go, the quality and range of route setting there is some of the best I've seen in the country and their training area is brilliant.

They also have a really good coach though from what I hear he can be quite expensive.

YourCreation
Jan 4, 2004

A little creative surgery helps turn a few sick pets into a new and improved friend!


I live in Potters Bar right now, so getting to The Arch is a PITA 8(

TotallyUnoriginal
Oct 15, 2004

Damnit bob

gamera009 posted:

That means one of two things:

1) Your finger is fat. Lose some weight fatass. :smugdog:
2) A kid was climbing that route. You know what the squishy poo poo is. :negative:

3) Possible protein rich mid-climb snack

Cybor Tap
Jul 13, 2001



TotallyUnoriginal posted:

3) Possible protein rich mid-climb snack

Lemons -> Lemonade

Covert Ops Wizard
Dec 27, 2006



Had to take a couple of weeks off because between being sick and renovating a house I've had no time to climb, and finally got to today. It's crazy that with all that time to rest it seems I've gotten stronger, my session didn't last long but I crushed a couple projects of mine in no time at all. Good thing too, there's a comp this weekend and we all know that means ALL NEW PROBLEMS :parrot:

JustAnother Fat Guy
Dec 22, 2009

Go to hell, and take your cheap suit with you!

After two weeks of trying I have sent my newest project coming in at a cool Font 8a, or v12 to americans. Now I think I might apply some ice to my rather sore fingers. My 8a/5.13b project is also going quite well, but it's weird how the crux of the boulder problem was solved by a simple (excruciatingly powerful) drop knee. I had a bit of a Sharma grunt going.


Remember people, just keep on cranking.

JustAnother Fat Guy fucked around with this message at 21:06 on Feb 9, 2013

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


Super exited boulder I just found in morro bay. Hoping it rings in at 11 or 12.

Dooey
Jun 30, 2009


I'm going to El Potrero Chico next week for my first time, any tips? From my investigation so far it seems like a super easy trip to plan.

a foolish pianist
May 6, 2007

(bi)cyclic mutation



Don't get murdered.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

a foolish pianist posted:

Don't get murdered.

This may seem like a joke, but take it seriously. There is supposedly a lot of drug cartel activity going on down there right now. I have been wanting to go for a while, but keep putting it off because of the reported instability.

jiggerypokery
Feb 1, 2012

...But I could hardly wait six months with a red hot jape like that under me belt.

YourCreation posted:

My goal for the year is to enter a bouldering competition by the end of the year. I do not expect to do really well, just enter. I have The Self Coached Climber, 9 out of 10 climbers, and will be climbing at The Castle and Mile End in London. I have been indoor climbing at an amateur level for about a year now and have had some private instruction. I might do a few personal training and coaching sessions to mark progress. Following YLLS nutrition guide and doing lots of free weights in the gym to lose weight and gain some power. Wish me luck goonies.

Why not just enter one? I really don't see why you need to go through all that to enter a competition. You go through all that to improve your climbing, they are completely unrelated. You're not going to win your first comp. You can, however, do better in your second comp than you did in your first. Swallow your pride and take the plunge! That's the essence of climbing after all.

Just enter blocfest and spend your year making sure you do better next time!

http://www.blocfest.co.uk/p/entries.html

Remember the best climber is the one having the most fun!

ZeroDays
Feb 11, 2007

the fuck you know about what i need on my mind mother fucker

One thing that I've found pretty annoying is that my regular climbing partner is about 6'3" and I'm only 5'7", and it sometimes seems like we're doing different climbs. This makes giving each other advice pretty useless, as there's no point in me warning him about that shallow pocket when he reaches right past it and homes in on the jug. It's great that there's less of me to haul up the wall, but gently caress dealing with reachy climbs when I don't yet have the technique to compensate.

YourCreation
Jan 4, 2004

A little creative surgery helps turn a few sick pets into a new and improved friend!


jiggerypokery posted:

Why not just enter one?

Because it will encourage me to keep climbing and exercising, especially on those days when I am just feeling lazy. I have a lot of fun climbing, but until this point I have just been climbing in my comfort zone and really want to improve. I might enter that March one for poo poo's and giggles at your suggestion.

a foolish pianist
May 6, 2007

(bi)cyclic mutation



armorer posted:

This may seem like a joke, but take it seriously. There is supposedly a lot of drug cartel activity going on down there right now. I have been wanting to go for a while, but keep putting it off because of the reported instability.

Yeah, I didn't mean it as a joke. There was a recent group of murders close to EPC, up in Sabinas Hidalgo, maybe. I don't think any climbers have been killed, but northern Mexico is a mess right now. Be careful.

spandexcajun
Feb 28, 2005

Suck the head for a little extra cajun flavor

Fallen Rib

ZeroDays posted:

One thing that I've found pretty annoying is that my regular climbing partner is about 6'3" and I'm only 5'7", and it sometimes seems like we're doing different climbs.

6'3" here, with long arms to boot. Sometimes I feel like I am cheating, especially when I am climbing with my son. He is 10 and tall for his age but I doubt he is 5' yet. One of the kid coaches at the gym said it's about 1 - 2 grades harder for kids based on hight / reach alone.

I am jonesing to get outside. It's been unseasonably warm in Denver the last month or so but still to cold to climb... at least for me. The few days it has been really nice I have been busy. Oh well, I need to be a better climber anyhow, most of the climbs I was to do are lead / trad and I'm just not that confident in my leading and endurance yet to climb much more then 5.7 trad multi-pitch. Starting to lead 5.10 in the gym so, hey, progress!

Anyone else intimidated by an area? I have been climbing in Eldo / flatirons / Boulder canyon and I always think I suck to much to be climbing here. It is true that there are always incredible climbers out everywhere here, but it's not the people, more that I need to be better just to deserve to climb here. Last time I was at Eldorado three different parties had flown in from around the country just to climb here. All I did was leave work 30min early. Maybe I feel weird since I started doing the trad thing having never really climbed a sport route outside, top-roped plenty but never clipped bolts. It's like I skipped a step. I guess I'm saying I need to get my rear end climbing more so my skill match what I think they should be. My climbing partner said something to the effect of he will consider himself a "real" climber when he can lead 5.11 (we did not specify, but I'm pretty sure he meant in a gym) I don't know, on the other hand at the end of last year I felt like a pretty awesome a.k.a. "real" climber leading a 4 - 5 pitch trad route even if the climbing was easy.

TL;DR Thinking to much, not climbing enough :)

Google Butt
Oct 4, 2005

Xenology is an unnatural mixture of science fiction and formal logic. At its core is a flawed assumption...

that an alien race would be psychologically human.



Are there any goons who go to Pacific Edge in Santa Cruz? I haven't been since I was a kid and I'm seriously considering getting a 6 month membership to supplement my Brazilian Jiu Jitsu.

Should I just buy whatever starter gear kit they offer or rent?

edit:

quote:

Q: Are free rentals (of gear) included with membership?
A: When you sign up for full membership (a minimum of 6 months), your first month's rentals of the essential gear are free. Essential gear is defined as a harness, climbing shoes, and belay device/carabiner. After the first month, members can rental the above gear items at $5 for all three or $4 for shoes, $1 for the harness, and $1 for the belay device, individually. Chalk bags are not considered essential gear items and rent for $2 a day.
@ $54/mo seems very fair to me, overall.

Looks like it's a go.

Google Butt fucked around with this message at 01:08 on Feb 11, 2013

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



ZeroDays posted:

One thing that I've found pretty annoying is that my regular climbing partner is about 6'3" and I'm only 5'7", and it sometimes seems like we're doing different climbs. This makes giving each other advice pretty useless, as there's no point in me warning him about that shallow pocket when he reaches right past it and homes in on the jug. It's great that there's less of me to haul up the wall, but gently caress dealing with reachy climbs when I don't yet have the technique to compensate.

That was one of my favorite things about climbing with my best friend back in michigan. We would get to bitch at each other, him being giant yelling "just reach up and grab it :rolleyes: " or on a super compact route me telling him to bring his legs up. It was great to make each route new and an adventure. Plus we wouldn't be at the wall just spewing beta everywhere.

PRADA SLUT
Mar 14, 2006

There already is representation of women in board games. Just look at all my titty minis. What more representation do they need?


Is there a video detailing the correct way to belay a toproper using an ATC? Ive been told I'm doing something wrong but half the loving videos are people arguing about where you put your hands.

spandexcajun
Feb 28, 2005

Suck the head for a little extra cajun flavor

Fallen Rib

PRADA SLUT posted:

Is there a video detailing the correct way to belay a toproper using an ATC? Ive been told I'm doing something wrong but half the loving videos are people arguing about where you put your hands.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2-a0FLqwPL8

I was taught the another way, that sucked. Pinching slide with your breaking arm not locked off much of the time. I was converted, BUS is much better since you are locked off by default. Break under slide for life!

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

spandexcajun posted:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2-a0FLqwPL8

I was taught the another way, that sucked. Pinching slide with your breaking arm not locked off much of the time. I was converted, BUS is much better since you are locked off by default. Break under slide for life!

This is definitely the way to do it. One thing to note is that when you return your left hand to the rope above the ATC, you want it to be around eye level. The belayer in the video does this, but a lot of people tend to reach up to their full arm's extension. When you pull rope through, having your left hand at eye level will prevent you from taking too much rope such that you can't reach under. (That is by far the most common issue I see when people learn this approach.)

Jose Valasquez
Apr 8, 2005

Bzzt Bzzt!

What is the purpose of the upper hand? I was taught a similar belay technique but both hands were kept below the device the entire time. Having to move a hand from above the belay device to below and then back again over and over seems awkward to me and much more likely to cause problems if someone falls right as my brake hand is in the up position since I've only got one hand to hold on with.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

The upper hand doesn't serve any real safety purpose that I know of, and if your partner is hanging you should bring it down and have both hands below just for added safety. That said, I find that the upper hand serves two useful purposes. If you keep the weight of your arm on the top section of rope, you will immediately feel any slack that develops. That means that if you look away for a minute and the climber moves, you know you have to take some rope because you can feel it. The second is as I mentioned above, it has the side effect of helping you take reasonably sized pulls through the ATC.

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PRADA SLUT
Mar 14, 2006

There already is representation of women in board games. Just look at all my titty minis. What more representation do they need?


Weird question, but are there any "must-have" pants people climb in?

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