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guppy
Sep 21, 2004

sting like a byob

gamera009 posted:

Gym grades mean nothing. Go outside!

It's on the to-do list. Some friends invited me to the Red earlier this year but I couldn't go. My gym is running a two-day trip to Coopers Rock later this year and I intend to go on it. In the meantime, flawed though they are, gym grades are the best benchmark available to me for my performance.

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spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



guppy posted:

It's on the to-do list. Some friends invited me to the Red earlier this year but I couldn't go.

Not a good decision. The red is so cool.

Chris!
Dec 1, 2004

E

guppy posted:

It's on the to-do list. Some friends invited me to the Red earlier this year but I couldn't go. My gym is running a two-day trip to Coopers Rock later this year and I intend to go on it. In the meantime, flawed though they are, gym grades are the best benchmark available to me for my performance.

Gym grades are a great benchmark of your personal improvement! I only climbed inside for the first year or so and got way better. All people mean is that the grade you climb indoors won't translate exactly to your outdoor grade, like I can climb 6c uk indoor but struggle with 5c's outdoor.

But the more you climb anywhere the better you'll become! Outdoors is much more fun though, and I'm improving much more now I'm taking the extra time to climb outdoors.

CoasterMaster
Aug 13, 2003

The Emperor of the Rides



Nap Ghost

While we're on the subject of outdoors, I've got some noob questions. I've been climbing for about 6 months now, top rope only. In a couple weeks, I'm taking a lead class at my gym (loving finally got around to it, lead climbing looks so badass). Anyway, once I feel confident leading, is there anything else I need to know before going outside to a real rock? I was hoping that learning to lead and getting good at that would at least let me do some of the easier single-pitch sport routes, but I'm not 100% sure if that's all I need (I'm guessing there's more to it than 'whelp you're outside now'). I can confidently climb 5.10- routes and do 5.10/5.10+ routes on a good day (and yes, I realize the past few posts were about how gym grades don't matter :) and yes my gym does 5.10-/5.10/5.10+ instead of a/b/c/d).

The closest place to me that has some easy routes is Exit 38 (Washington State folks probably know it well). Any tips or words of wisdom on that?

burns_2k
Oct 17, 2012


CoasterMaster posted:

Anyway, once I feel confident leading, is there anything else I need to know before going outside to a real rock?
The only other thing that springs to mind is you need to learn how to lower off. Usually in a gym you will climb to a pain of screw gates you clip before lowering off. Out doors you will usually need to clip into a pair of bolts with a sling. You then thread the bolts before lowering off. Its worth watching a video or two so you know what to do before you get there!

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



burns_2k posted:

The only other thing that springs to mind is you need to learn how to lower off. Usually in a gym you will climb to a pain of screw gates you clip before lowering off. Out doors you will usually need to clip into a pair of bolts with a sling. You then thread the bolts before lowering off. Its worth watching a video or two so you know what to do before you get there!

Take some falls on lead. Just climb up to the third or fourth and jump off. Have your belayer give a soft catch. Repeat until it feels normal.

FiestaDePantalones
May 13, 2005

Kicked in the pants by TFLC

guppy posted:

It's on the to-do list. Some friends invited me to the Red earlier this year but I couldn't go. My gym is running a two-day trip to Coopers Rock later this year and I intend to go on it. In the meantime, flawed though they are, gym grades are the best benchmark available to me for my performance.

Wait Cooper's Rock like in WV? I didn't know I shared a state with another climbing goon! Any chance you can fit one more 'never climbed outdoors but 5.10b indoors' in the mix?

crazycello
Jul 22, 2009


CoasterMaster posted:

While we're on the subject of outdoors, I've got some noob questions. I've been climbing for about 6 months now, top rope only. In a couple weeks, I'm taking a lead class at my gym (loving finally got around to it, lead climbing looks so badass). Anyway, once I feel confident leading, is there anything else I need to know before going outside to a real rock? I was hoping that learning to lead and getting good at that would at least let me do some of the easier single-pitch sport routes, but I'm not 100% sure if that's all I need (I'm guessing there's more to it than 'whelp you're outside now'). I can confidently climb 5.10- routes and do 5.10/5.10+ routes on a good day (and yes, I realize the past few posts were about how gym grades don't matter :) and yes my gym does 5.10-/5.10/5.10+ instead of a/b/c/d).

The closest place to me that has some easy routes is Exit 38 (Washington State folks probably know it well). Any tips or words of wisdom on that?

I just did a lead course outside and am pretty solid top roping 10's in the gym. I was struggling with leading 7's outside. It's a hell of a lot harder to even realize what can be used as a hold and I haven't figured out how to transfer the skills I've learned in the gym to slab climbing.

guppy
Sep 21, 2004

sting like a byob

FiestaDePantalones posted:

Wait Cooper's Rock like in WV? I didn't know I shared a state with another climbing goon! Any chance you can fit one more 'never climbed outdoors but 5.10b indoors' in the mix?

Right site, but we'll be coming from out of state -- we're out of the Baltimore area, and I believe this is being organized for members of the gym only. If you'e in WV it obviously makes no sense for you to join my gym. Adding more people isn't my call to make as I don't work there. Sorry :(

Discomancer
Aug 31, 2001

I'm on a cupcake caper!

CoasterMaster posted:



The closest place to me that has some easy routes is Exit 38 (Washington State folks probably know it well). Any tips or words of wisdom on that?
I love that place, Exit 38 is where I learned to climb, it has a ton of good stuff! Make sure you know how to set up an anchor and lower off it. For Exit 38, the north side is way better than south side. It has some awesome places to learn (particularly Squishy Bell and Gritscone). If you go with someone who knows how to set anchors, they can walk around the top of a few routes on Squishy Bell to watch while you set it up, which is nice.

Easy Street has an easy grade and easy routes, plus it's overbolted so you can get a lot of clipping practice in on the way up. Endless Bliss is nearby, it's a great longer route in that area and you're never left wanting for bolts the whole way up, probably the best route in the whole area.

AriTheDog
Jul 29, 2003
Famously tasty.

CoasterMaster posted:

Anyway, once I feel confident leading, is there anything else I need to know before going outside to a real rock?

You should probably take a course or go with people who really know what they're doing. Or you could just watch a video or two, but I sure as hell wouldn't risk it.

FiestaDePantalones
May 13, 2005

Kicked in the pants by TFLC

guppy posted:

Right site, but we'll be coming from out of state -- we're out of the Baltimore area, and I believe this is being organized for members of the gym only. If you'e in WV it obviously makes no sense for you to join my gym. Adding more people isn't my call to make as I don't work there. Sorry :(

Awwww all right then. You've got me itching to go there, at least. It's only 40 minutes away from me so I may just hop on the bike and make a trip there to see what's up.

Peanut and the Gang
Aug 24, 2009

by exmarx


I'm going rock climbing today!!!!! I can do the 5.6 walls and V0's. :mrgw:

egyptian rat race
Jul 13, 2007

Lowtax Spine Fund 2019


Ultra Carp

This month's Rock and Ice had the funniest climbing ad I've seen in a long time:



In other news, I got to top rope and boulder a bit in Donner Pass. So much loving fun, and only the second time I've been able to climb on real rock.



E: view from the top of the pass

Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008


I'll be in Denver this weekend, any suggestions for bouldering gyms?

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

Dutymode posted:

I'll be in Denver this weekend, any suggestions for bouldering gyms?
I assume you will have a car.

Denver proper? Or can you get to Boulder? I'm a fan of The Spot. It's a pure bouldering gym, with a fairly large amount of space.

If they're too far, Rock'n'Jammin is also really good.


Or you can take a $4/45min light rail trip up to Earth Treks in Golden.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx


Denver Bouldering Club. Or rent/borrow a car; there's excellent bouldering in Morrison, Evergreen, and Boulder.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Dutymode posted:

I'll be in Denver this weekend, any suggestions for bouldering gyms?

Outside perhaps? If it has to be a gym then go to the Spot in Boulder.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



Dutymode posted:

I'll be in Denver this weekend, any suggestions for bouldering gyms?

I am sure there are several denver/boulder goons willing to meet up to climb. Just let people know. :haw:

Meatbag Esq.
May 3, 2006

Hmm which internet meme should go here again?

Got to the top of my first 11a's yesterday (at my gym in Sunnyvale). Next time I should be able to do them clean. Still can't do the V3's on the bouldering wall.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



gamera009 posted:

I am sure there are several denver/boulder goons willing to meet up to climb. Just let people know. :haw:

I should be out somewhere this weekend one or both days.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



spwrozek posted:

I should be out somewhere this weekend one or both days.

I might have Sunday until 1pm free. Morning bouldering is good bouldering.

Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008


I'm thinking I'll try the Denver Bouldering Club on Saturday if my back is feeling better.

modig
Aug 20, 2002


gamera009 posted:

I might have Sunday until 1pm free. Morning bouldering is good bouldering.

Morning outside is outside without rain and lightning, usually.

pokie
Apr 26, 2008

IT HAPPENED!



Silly question - how do you keep your shoes from reeking? I climb at the gym almost every day and spray them with whatever the gym uses for rentals, but it's not helping much.

Also, I am going to climb outdoors for the first time this weekend at Castle Rock. So excited!

Meatbag Esq. posted:

Got to the top of my first 11a's yesterday (at my gym in Sunnyvale). Next time I should be able to do them clean. Still can't do the V3's on the bouldering wall.

Congrats! Oh hey, I go there virtually every day. I did my first v3 like a month ago :D. Have you tried their balance and technique bouldering class? That really got me to commit to improving my technique.

canis minor
May 4, 2011



pokie posted:

Silly question - how do you keep your shoes from reeking? I climb at the gym almost every day and spray them with whatever the gym uses for rentals, but it's not helping much.

Recommendation from this very thread: http://www.bootbananas.com/ . Tested and very happy about them.

Meatbag Esq.
May 3, 2006

Hmm which internet meme should go here again?

pokie posted:

Congrats! Oh hey, I go there virtually every day. I did my first v3 like a month ago :D. Have you tried their balance and technique bouldering class? That really got me to commit to improving my technique.

I'm also there rather regularly but haven't taken good advantage of the classes. If you want to meet up my gmail account is REDACTED!.

Meatbag Esq. fucked around with this message at 06:05 on Jul 18, 2014

BlackMK4
Aug 23, 2006

wat.

Megamarm

Do we have a slackline thread around here anywhere?

modig
Aug 20, 2002


BlackMK4 posted:

Do we have a slackline thread around here anywhere?

I doubt we have a dedicated thread. I've got a rarely used slackline disassembled in my garage from before the 2inch wide ones with winches were widely available. Never got far beyond just being able to walk back and forth, though I'd love to do a highline (with protection!) someday.

Caf
May 21, 2004

I'm King James! The Lion King!

Boston crew, BKBS is hosting a bouldering comp for their first anniversary on August 1st.

I just registered for the intermediate division so come climb with me!

pokie
Apr 26, 2008

IT HAPPENED!



eithedog posted:

Recommendation from this very thread: http://www.bootbananas.com/ . Tested and very happy about them.

They are not available in the states :[. E: Nevermind, found them on amazon.

pokie fucked around with this message at 18:57 on Jul 18, 2014

Chris!
Dec 1, 2004

E

I also have smelly climbing shoes unfortunately.

I was lazy for the first ~6 months with them, and didn't do anything to stop them smelling - basically left them inside a bag between climbing sessions, never aired them. They started smelling really bad, I bought boot-bananas and have used them for probably about a year, but they never made much difference. I now have them airing between climbs, and I spray them with anti-bacterial spray etc, but honestly they loving reek still.

I don't have smelly feet generally, and I'm not an especially sweaty person :(

guppy
Sep 21, 2004

sting like a byob

A La Sportiva rep told me once that you can just straight up wash them out with water without hurting them. Synthetic or leather.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

I heard the save thing from the evolv rep; just throw them in a wash cycle.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Will be climbing at little Eiger in the morning if anyone wants to join us from the Denver area.

brakeless
Apr 11, 2011

You're pretty sympathetic.
Smoke?

Two week bouldering holiday in Finland.

With a shirt on.



Without.



Succesful hammock installation.



Beaches.



So much fun. Finding new places to climb with a good crew is the poo poo. The truth is out there.

Bonus dragonfly.

Chris!
Dec 1, 2004

E

brakeless posted:

Two week bouldering holiday in Finland.

With a shirt on.



Without.



Succesful hammock installation.



Beaches.



So much fun. Finding new places to climb with a good crew is the poo poo. The truth is out there.

Bonus dragonfly.



Looks like you had a great time!

I'm going to Vietnam for 3.5 weeks from this Thursday, and want to climb while I'm out there. It's not a climbing holiday, so I won't be bringing gear with me and will only get a chance for 2-3 days climbing. Anyone know any good climbing spots in North Vietnam (or elsewhere in the country)? Will be checking out ha long bay and cat ba island for climbing for sure.

brakeless
Apr 11, 2011

You're pretty sympathetic.
Smoke?

Chris! posted:

Looks like you had a great time!

I'm going to Vietnam for 3.5 weeks from this Thursday, and want to climb while I'm out there. It's not a climbing holiday, so I won't be bringing gear with me and will only get a chance for 2-3 days climbing. Anyone know any good climbing spots in North Vietnam (or elsewhere in the country)? Will be checking out ha long bay and cat ba island for climbing for sure.

Take pics, please? :shobon: I've got the travel bug something fierce now but my next 10 months are going to be filled to the brim with studying so I'm going to have to live vicariously through others.

Chris!
Dec 1, 2004

E

brakeless posted:

Take pics, please? :shobon: I've got the travel bug something fierce now but my next 10 months are going to be filled to the brim with studying so I'm going to have to live vicariously through others.

I'll try! Thailand is apparently far better for climbing, but I'm not going to get a chance to go there on this trip. I've heard mixed reports about the climbing in Vietnam, but hopefully I'll find something fun for a day or 2!

I spent months backpacking around Morocco a few years ago, but wasn't into climbing at that point. Turns out I visited some amazing climbing locations without knowing it, if only I had started this hobby a bit earlier.

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stratdax
Sep 14, 2006



Chris! posted:

Looks like you had a great time!

I'm going to Vietnam for 3.5 weeks from this Thursday, and want to climb while I'm out there. It's not a climbing holiday, so I won't be bringing gear with me and will only get a chance for 2-3 days climbing. Anyone know any good climbing spots in North Vietnam (or elsewhere in the country)? Will be checking out ha long bay and cat ba island for climbing for sure.

I spent a month in Vietnam. Very large country, pick and choose your spots. Spend more time in less places to really discover the hidden gems, because there's a lot of them. Looks like there's an Asia Outdoors office on Cat Ba island. If you're in Hanoi also swing by the Hanoi Backpacker Hostel, they have fingers in a lot of pies and could probably point you in the right direction for where to go for rock climbing, or maybe just set you up with a group.
http://www.asiaoutdoors.com.vn/News/Climbing-Beta/Rock-Climbing-areas.html

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