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spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



gamera009 posted:

My climbing partner and I refuse to drive to golden. I commute far enough already, no desire to commute even more.

Stupid expensive gyms.

I get that man. I feel the same way about trying to get to Boulder after work though... US36 sucks so much


Bud Manstrong posted:

I'll burn out my punch pass there. Not sure how many I've got left.

Oct. 31 would probably be better for me for shelf, but let me know either way. It's always fun to have a big group to hang out with at the end of the day, even if you're splitting up climbing.

I would be down for the 31st just didn't know if people would hesitant about missing Halloween (I don't care). I will see what people want to do.

Anyone is welcome to come as well.

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gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



spwrozek posted:

I get that man. I feel the same way about trying to get to Boulder after work though... US36 sucks so much


I would be down for the 31st just didn't know if people would hesitant about missing Halloween (I don't care). I will see what people want to do.

Anyone is welcome to come as well.

I personally would be down for the November date instead. Colder, but I also wouldn't be missing Halloween. Competing for a $300 cert in sushi at Zanmai.

If you decide to go in November, I know the missus would want to go as well. You can check out our entirely ridiculous base camp tent, complete with camping cots, heated interior and welcome mat.

Also, I can bring a bunch of bulgogi and kalbi.

hostile apostle
Aug 29, 2006


I AM LITERALLY STANNING FOR STADIA

THAT IS HOW MUCH OF A FUCKING LOSER I AM

YOU CAN DISREGARD ANYTHING I SAY WITH
A SIMPLE "FUCK OFF YOU FUCKING IDIOT"

FOR I AM A GOOGLE EMPLOYEE

STANNING FOR STADIA



So I've been climbing, mostly boldering, about once a week for almost two months now at PG SF. Took down my first V3 today. However, I am absolutely terrible at anything with overhang. I can pretty much do any V2 without overhang, but any of the ones where you get horizontal at all, I can't even start them.

Am I just doing it inefficiently or are the overhang V2s just that much harder? Any recommendations for dealing with overhang?

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



That sounds most excellent. I will ask around and post back up what everyone is thinking.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



hostile apostle posted:

So I've been climbing, mostly boldering, about once a week for almost two months now at PG SF. Took down my first V3 today. However, I am absolutely terrible at anything with overhang. I can pretty much do any V2 without overhang, but any of the ones where you get horizontal at all, I can't even start them.

Am I just doing it inefficiently or are the overhang V2s just that much harder? Any recommendations for dealing with overhang?

How is your core work? That is usually my issue on overhang. You need to engage the core and keep it near the wall usually, then try to not to do a bunch of pullups. Turn your shoulders, flag your feet, etc. Plus practice a bunch more.

Mahlertov Cocktail
Mar 1, 2010

I ate your Mahler avatar! Hahahaha!

Sharks Eat Bear posted:

also fwiw i'm sitting in the lexington airport drinking a kentucky brewery bourbon barrel ale waiting for my ride to show up for a week trip to the RRG

Sounds dope. I'm sad that I couldn't manage to organize a trip to the Red when I was back in the States in September

tynam
May 14, 2007


hostile apostle posted:

So I've been climbing, mostly boldering, about once a week for almost two months now at PG SF. Took down my first V3 today. However, I am absolutely terrible at anything with overhang. I can pretty much do any V2 without overhang, but any of the ones where you get horizontal at all, I can't even start them.

Am I just doing it inefficiently or are the overhang V2s just that much harder? Any recommendations for dealing with overhang?

Get really familiar with flagging, backstepping, heel hooks and knee drops, and try to apply them as much as possible. Unless you're hanging off jugs, you want to keep your body as close against the wall as possible to keep as much weight on your feet as possible.

Combine the technique with simply building more grip endurance. Your grip is holding you close to the wall as your feet is doing most of the work, and if your grip fails then nothing else will save you. Either climbing more or light hangboard exercises should help.

big scary monsters
Sep 2, 2011

-~Skullwave~-


tynam posted:

Get really familiar with flagging, backstepping, heel hooks and knee drops, and try to apply them as much as possible. Unless you're hanging off jugs, you want to keep your body as close against the wall as possible to keep as much weight on your feet as possible.

Combine the technique with simply building more grip endurance. Your grip is holding you close to the wall as your feet is doing most of the work, and if your grip fails then nothing else will save you. Either climbing more or light hangboard exercises should help.

Yeah, this is all good. Overhangs are obviously more strenuous than less steep stuff and just doing a lot of overhangs is the best training there is, but you can't just attack them, you need to think about it too. I regularly see very strong folk struggling on stuff that other people with less brute strength can cruise up. Technique is super important, I like to warm up most sessions by just climbing a bunch of easier stuff as slowly, carefully and in control as possible. I make an effort to be aware of my body position, feet and hands and if possible get every move right first time - every time you have to stop and adjust you're wasting strength so training yourself to know instinctively how you need to be positioned to reach the next hold with minimal effort can make a big difference when you're trying to send your project.

Papercut
Aug 24, 2005

The quickest substitution in the history of the NBA

hostile apostle posted:

So I've been climbing, mostly boldering, about once a week for almost two months now at PG SF. Took down my first V3 today. However, I am absolutely terrible at anything with overhang. I can pretty much do any V2 without overhang, but any of the ones where you get horizontal at all, I can't even start them.

Am I just doing it inefficiently or are the overhang V2s just that much harder? Any recommendations for dealing with overhang?

PG's overhung routes are much harder than their vertical routes, yeah. Even when they are graded the same.

Still B.A.E
Mar 24, 2012



Very Good UK bouldering film Life On Hold is currently (today only I think) free to rent here: http://steepedge.com/categories/bouldering/life-on-hold.html

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

spwrozek posted:



Basically I need to be able to get the climbing and yoga in Monday to Wednesday to make it worth it. Also need to find a partner or two willing to go to the gym.

Forgot to reply to this last week, but I (still) live about three blocks away from the earthtreks. So I can meet you or other goons there almost any day.

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004



Still B.A.E posted:

Very Good UK bouldering film Life On Hold is currently (today only I think) free to rent here: http://steepedge.com/categories/bouldering/life-on-hold.html

This is cool and worth watching. Thanks for sharing

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Super fun day of climbing at Highlander Crag. Got on the following routes:

Resume 5.9
Learning to Crawl 5.10a
Neo Quasi Bugaloo 5.10c (MP says 10b but I think it is harder than that honestly)
Air Head 5.9 with the worst fall potential and anchor location

Learning to crawl and Neo Quasi Bugaloo are just awesome. It is a crazy hike up to the crag but super worth it for those routes.

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


spwrozek posted:

Super fun day of climbing at Highlander Crag. Got on the following routes:

Resume 5.9
Learning to Crawl 5.10a
Neo Quasi Bugaloo 5.10c (MP says 10b but I think it is harder than that honestly)
Air Head 5.9 with the worst fall potential and anchor location

Learning to crawl and Neo Quasi Bugaloo are just awesome. It is a crazy hike up to the crag but super worth it for those routes.

That's some mighty generous bolting! Looks like neat roof problems. I'll have to check this crag out if I ever venture up north (hard to make myself do, with Shelf Road being so close to home).

e: after all the runouts today I experienced at 11 Mile, I could go for some generous bolting. Just sayin'.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Save me jeebus posted:

That's some mighty generous bolting! Looks like neat roof problems. I'll have to check this crag out if I ever venture up north (hard to make myself do, with Shelf Road being so close to home).

e: after all the runouts today I experienced at 11 Mile, I could go for some generous bolting. Just sayin'.

I thought the bolting was pretty fair. Not too close together but not too run out, Bolts put where you need them. On NQB there were 2 clips where I was pretty scared while making them...

I actually like run out though as long as it is easyish terrain and I will not get hurt by falling.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Picture from yesterday:



I am belaying at the bottom and my buddy is climbing. This is on Air Head.

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


spwrozek posted:

Picture from yesterday:



I am belaying at the bottom and my buddy is climbing. This is on Air Head.

This warrants a road trip! Thanks.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Save me jeebus posted:

This warrants a road trip! Thanks.

Anytime you want to come up to climb I have a basically empty house with a pull out couch, spare bedroom, air mattress... You don't have any real camping options near there.

Here is a shot from last weekend at East Colfax. Probably one of the better paces to learn leading since you have sooo many things below 5.8. I scrambled around the top and laid on the rock to snap the photos of my buddy's girl on her second lead with him belaying down below.

spwrozek fucked around with this message at 02:07 on Oct 13, 2014

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



spwrozek posted:

Anytime you want to come up to climb I have a basically empty house with a pull out couch, spare bedroom, air mattress... You don't have any real camping options near there.

Here is a shot from last weekend at East Colfax. Probably one of the better paces to learn leading since you have sooo many things below 5.8. I scrambled around the top and laid on the rock to snap the photos of my buddy's girl on her second lead with him belaying down below.



I haven't been outside in so long.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



gamera009 posted:

I haven't been outside in so long.

But why?!? Most weekends we are out in CCC. I might grab the Boulder Canyon Guidebook and start heading up there more again next year.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



spwrozek posted:

But why?!? Most weekends we are out in CCC. I might grab the Boulder Canyon Guidebook and start heading up there more again next year.

Busy mostly. I don't get home until after the sun is setting now. Gym time is now more valuable - sucks but is easy and convenient. Weekends I'm stuck writing grants, grading, and trying to generally "get poo poo done."

I gotta plan ahead in advance quite a ways to manage some outdoor time unfortunately.

crazycello
Jul 22, 2009


We're deep into shoulder season where I live. I keep trying for start times of 9AM, but even sun exposed rock is cold and frustrating until about noon.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



crazycello posted:

We're deep into shoulder season where I live. I keep trying for start times of 9AM, but even sun exposed rock is cold and frustrating until about noon.

Yeah we have been heading out about 11 and climbing till dark on weekends the last few weeks.

guppy
Sep 21, 2004

sting like a byob

For insane work scheduling reasons I basically haven't been able to climb in about five weeks. First night back in the gym tonight and holy poo poo have I lost a lot.

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


spwrozek posted:

Anytime you want to come up to climb I have a basically empty house with a pull out couch, spare bedroom, air mattress... You don't have any real camping options near there.

Here is a shot from last weekend at East Colfax. Probably one of the better paces to learn leading since you have sooo many things below 5.8. I scrambled around the top and laid on the rock to snap the photos of my buddy's girl on her second lead with him belaying down below.



Cool, thanks man! Looks like I might be headed out to Penitente for this weekend. Super stoked.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Here is a shot of my buddies girl on her second rappel with him hanging out. This is the bottom pitch of the multi we did two weekends ago.

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


Did my first follow on a multi pitch trad today. Also first 5.11 (on TR).

I decided I really like trad and want to do more of it!

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



More fun climbing was had today at Little Eiger.

Got on some stuff I have done before and a new one.

The Old:
First Impressions 5.9 Pretty fun all around
Footloose 5.10a with an awesome crux

The New:
Persistent Vegetative State 5.10a(guidebook), 5.10b(mountain project), 5.10d(the dog tag hanging on the first bolt)... I would say it is a 5.10a, maybe a 10b but even though I was getting pumped it was probably still a 5.10a. This route is awesome though. Uses every bit of a 70M and it is just awesome move after awesome move.

Here are a couple of pictures. Also my buddies 70M looks bad rear end in photos.





Some longer draws would have been nice at the bottom. It is one of those routes you live to climb though.

Nifty
Aug 31, 2004



Climbed at a crappy little SoCal spot, the quarry in Riverside. Second time leading, and the first time was with someone experienced belaying. Did some super easy routes (5.6 & 5.7 routes) and felt good on them. But mantling onto slabby ledges is scary!

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Nifty posted:

But mantling onto slabby ledges is scaryAMAZING!

Fixed that for you but I also really like fun balancing hand meet foot slab moves.

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


spwrozek posted:

Fixed that for you but I also really like fun balancing hand meet foot slab moves.
Slabs rule. I realize I'm in the minority on that one.

Sweet time today at Garden of the Gods. Finally did Montezuma's Tower (following). My BF wants to do it one evening, which will put me in the lead spot. It's nice, coarse, gritty sandstone, which if you know some of the routes at GoG is a nice change of pace.



It'll be a fun if a bit of a nerve-wracking lead. Stoked.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



Save me jeebus posted:

Slabs rule. I realize I'm in the minority on that one.

Sweet time today at Garden of the Gods. Finally did Montezuma's Tower (following). My BF wants to do it one evening, which will put me in the lead spot. It's nice, coarse, gritty sandstone, which if you know some of the routes at GoG is a nice change of pace.



It'll be a fun if a bit of a nerve-wracking lead. Stoked.

I have yet to do anything outside of eldo and BoCan.

There was Mount Royal, but there's really only one thing to do there.

Puseklepp
Jan 9, 2011

like watching the most beautiful ballerina on the best stage

For indoor bouldering, how many warmup climbs do people do before attacking the problem route of the day?

Meatbag Esq.
May 3, 2006

Hmm which internet meme should go here again?

My projects are v3-v4 and I usually do 2 each of v0-v3, down climbing the easier ones, to warm up.

Headhunter
Jun 3, 2003
One - You lock the target

I got home yesterday from spending 10 days in Fontainebleau. The whole place is simply amazing. Well worth the trip for anyone in Europe.

Falkaugaa
Feb 13, 2010


Puseklepp posted:

For indoor bouldering, how many warmup climbs do people do before attacking the problem route of the day?

I'll do a minute hang off jugs at the hangboard (alternating dead hang and flexed hang 10s each) then 10-15min slow traversing, aiming for a very slight pump. Then I'll run through 3-4 of the easiest problems and if I'm feeling good I'll do a repeat of my last completed problem to finish up.

modig
Aug 20, 2002


Puseklepp posted:

For indoor bouldering, how many warmup climbs do people do before attacking the problem route of the day?

When I was working (gym) V5-V7 regularly I would usually try to do 1-2 each of v0-v4, with attempted down climbs.

lime rind
Jul 10, 2014


Another bouldering question: How can I be less afraid of falling for high heights? I feel like I'm going to sprain something. I've watched this video, but when I get higher than my own height I feel like nothing can save me. Is there anything I can start doing to help me feel more comfortable when I'm up higher?

chami
Mar 28, 2011

Keep it classy, boys~


Fun Shoe

lime rind posted:

Another bouldering question: How can I be less afraid of falling for high heights? I feel like I'm going to sprain something. I've watched this video, but when I get higher than my own height I feel like nothing can save me. Is there anything I can start doing to help me feel more comfortable when I'm up higher?

Only going from my limited personal experience, but what helped me get over it was downclimbing a little bit and then falling. The more used to falling properly I got, the less restricted I felt. Of course, make sure that crash pads and all are in place, and downclimb when you can! I've certainly fallen from holds higher than my height and had nothing but a an adrenaline rush.

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French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience


Puseklepp posted:

For indoor bouldering, how many warmup climbs do people do before attacking the problem route of the day?

Zero I just fist bump myself crack my knuckles and start pulling down and screaming.

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