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Suicide Watch
Sep 8, 2009


modig posted:

Suicide Watch, your friend is almost certainly violating the terms of his/her pro-deal, and you are amplifying it. I recommend deleting your post.

I'm not concerned as he's a just a part-time employee at a rather large gym in the area, and one of the companies specified it was for friends/family as well. As long as he's not making a profit, the manufacturer probably doesn't care. If anything, it just means it pays to have a friend who works at a gym.

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spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



New rope and rope bag today. Get them both at REI and used the member 20% coupon on them. Got an Edelrid Raptor rope which is a 70M (finally!), 9.7mm, bi-pattern. Looks and feels awesome for sending some hard 10's and 11's (hopefully). Also picked up an Edelrid Caddy rope bag which I have used before and really like. It does pack a bit funny though which can make putting in the pack funky. Most crags are so close to the road though so not a big deal.

I can't wait to get out on that rope though.

I do have a question for the frequent gym climbers. Do you usually pick up a 40M gym rope or do you just use the ropes that most gyms let you use? It seems like these ropes are used by everyone and could be a bit more sketch. If I plan on a bunch of gym climbing this winter is it a worthwhile purchase?

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



spwrozek posted:

New rope and rope bag today. Get them both at REI and used the member 20% coupon on them. Got an Edelrid Raptor rope which is a 70M (finally!), 9.7mm, bi-pattern. Looks and feels awesome for sending some hard 10's and 11's (hopefully). Also picked up an Edelrid Caddy rope bag which I have used before and really like. It does pack a bit funny though which can make putting in the pack funky. Most crags are so close to the road though so not a big deal.

I can't wait to get out on that rope though.

I do have a question for the frequent gym climbers. Do you usually pick up a 40M gym rope or do you just use the ropes that most gyms let you use? It seems like these ropes are used by everyone and could be a bit more sketch. If I plan on a bunch of gym climbing this winter is it a worthwhile purchase?

Use the gym provided ropes. I tried using my own at the gym. No dice. Pointless as it's too long.

The gym ropes are good enough.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

I have never in my 8 years of climbing seen anybody bring their own rope to the gym.

Save your money.

Chris!
Dec 1, 2004

E

At my gym, if you want to top rope you use the pre-set gym rope, but if you're on lead you bring your own rope.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

spwrozek posted:

I do have a question for the frequent gym climbers. Do you usually pick up a 40M gym rope or do you just use the ropes that most gyms let you use? It seems like these ropes are used by everyone and could be a bit more sketch. If I plan on a bunch of gym climbing this winter is it a worthwhile purchase?

If the gym will provide you a lead rope, you should probably use it. They have insurance to pay, and it would be crazy for them to give you a core shot rope. Obviously you should still feel out the rope as you flake it, but it should be fine to use. Using their ropes in the gym causes less wear and tear on your rope, so it will last you longer for your outdoor adventures. That said, my gym only has three loaner ropes and sometimes they are all in use. I typically bring my rope, but leave it in my locker unless I need it.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



I should have been a bit more clear. I usually just use the gym ropes and I wasn't going to use my 60 or 70m,I was considering just getting a short gym rope, 40m 10.5mm. I guess I will hold off for now though.

Business of Ferrets
Mar 2, 2008

Good to see that everything is back to normal.

Chris! posted:

At my gym, if you want to top rope you use the pre-set gym rope, but if you're on lead you bring your own rope.

This is the case at my gym, as well.

tortilla_chip
Jun 13, 2007

k-partite

Once you chop a rope into the sub 50m range use it for the gym? I don't see a compelling need to buy a rope specifically for gym use.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

tortilla_chip posted:

Once you chop a rope into the sub 50m range use it for the gym? I don't see a compelling need to buy a rope specifically for gym use.

This. If you get a dead spot at the end of one of your longer ropes after a bunch of use, but the core and sheath are still good, you can lop off the end and keep using it. (MAKE SURE YOU KNOW HOW LONG IT ENDS UP). If it gets short enough, relegate it to be your "gym rope". I use a 60m rope at my gym when the gym ropes are all in use. It's long, but it's really not that unmanageable.

LarryCsonka
Nov 7, 2006
Oooh, I don't go map-finding-behinding

Speleothing posted:

I have never in my 8 years of climbing seen anybody bring their own rope to the gym.

Save your money.

At every gym I have been to you need to bring your own rope to lead climb. They may have some loaners if you want to pay to rent them

pbpancho
Feb 17, 2004
-=International Sales=-

LarryCsonka posted:

At every gym I have been to you need to bring your own rope to lead climb. They may have some loaners if you want to pay to rent them

The gyms in Minnesota don't let you bring your own rope. Lead and topropes are provided.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

Different places have different rules. What a world!

Mahlertov Cocktail
Mar 1, 2010

I ate your Mahler avatar! Hahahaha!

Speleothing posted:

Different places have different rules. What a world!

Yeah, I mean here in Germany you can rent ropes and there are always some topropes set up, but can always bring in your own rope. I've mostly only climbed lead over here so I was surprised seeing the people posting about how you can't bring your own ropes to their gyms.

Endjinneer
Aug 17, 2005


Fallen Rib

pbpancho posted:

The gyms in Minnesota don't let you bring your own rope. Lead and topropes are provided.

What? So what do you do with your old ropes if you can't use them indoors? You know, the ones so furry you could wear them as a scarf? The ones that handle like a rusty bike chain.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

Endjinneer posted:

What? So what do you do with your old ropes if you can't use them indoors? You know, the ones so furry you could wear them as a scarf? The ones that handle like a rusty bike chain.

Make a rug, hang a hammock, use as a boat anchor line, make a garden trelace. Non safety applications.

Why would the gym let you take some janky pos into their facility and fall on it. If you have a failure, they're going to have to deal with it.

pbpancho
Feb 17, 2004
-=International Sales=-

Endjinneer posted:

What? So what do you do with your old ropes if you can't use them indoors? You know, the ones so furry you could wear them as a scarf? The ones that handle like a rusty bike chain.

Yeah, I wouldn't climb on those indoor either... Hammock hanging and dog leashes so far.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



The worst ropes I have climbed on were gym ropes by far. Stiff, flat spots, worn sheaths, sheath slippage, etc. I guess it is all padded so good to go right?

Kylaer
Aug 3, 2007


Any recommendations on a shoe with a similar heel and midfoot to the Miura VS, but a less painfully aggressive toe? I climbed in Nago Reds for a long time and liked those, then "upgraded" to Miuras, but even though I actually increased the size, they hurt so badly that I enjoy climbing a whole lot less than before.

Discomancer
Aug 31, 2001

I'm on a cupcake caper!

Kylaer posted:

Any recommendations on a shoe with a similar heel and midfoot to the Miura VS, but a less painfully aggressive toe? I climbed in Nago Reds for a long time and liked those, then "upgraded" to Miuras, but even though I actually increased the size, they hurt so badly that I enjoy climbing a whole lot less than before.

How long have you worn them? Miura VS take a looooong time to fully break in.

Endjinneer
Aug 17, 2005


Fallen Rib

So I went to the Costa Blanca last week. Here's a picture of me trying to shake out the pump on a knee bar before fluffing the crux of the last climb of the holiday at Toix Este.


Here's my buddy on the 60m abseil in to the route Parle which you absolutely must do if you're in the area. The first pitch is on the blocky ground left of the rope to the rock bridge. Then you go up to a hanging stance about level with where he's dangling, then a rising traverse out through the hole you abseiled in through. All this is over a giant zawn with the waves booming at the bottom.


Incidentally, anyone else worry about heat on long abseils? I tried to work out the physics on the way down (faster or slower = cooler?) but decided I wanted off the rope about 20m from the deck, when I started smelling burning plastic, and went as fast as my hands could take.

I bought a pair of Tenaya Tatankas while I was out there, anyone tried them? They better stretch out because they're flipping agonising.

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


Endjinneer posted:



Incidentally, anyone else worry about heat on long abseils? I tried to work out the physics on the way down (faster or slower = cooler?) but decided I wanted off the rope about 20m from the deck, when I started smelling burning plastic, and went as fast as my hands could take.

I bought a pair of Tenaya Tatankas while I was out there, anyone tried them? They better stretch out because they're flipping agonising.

Just take it slow on long abseils. Zinging down a 200ft freehanging rap is awesome as hell, but you can also glaze your rope, which is no bueno. I would take little breaks every 50ft or so when I did a lot of canyoneering.

Incidentally, I demo'd some Tenaya Tarifas a few weeks ago and will probably pick up a pair to backup my Miuras. I'm interested to hear how your Tatankas break in.

Also, those pics are amazing, thanks for sharing.

borapt
Jul 14, 2008


Hey all, just found this thread after having started climbing ~ 2 months ago. Have only climbed inside for now, and starting to get a feel for things...and now I have a question!

I'm having a problem with my legs - I'm coming from racing road bikes, so a very rigid, fixed, vertical motion. My legs are plenty strong (in that motion), but I'm just not using them enough - I have trouble opening up my hips against the wall or rotating my legs to get a good push off the hold. I get cramps or pain on the outside/inside of my hip in some of those positions. Any stretches recommended? Warmups?

I'm currently stuck at the v3/5.10c level and it's messing with my head a little bit. I've gotten 'strong' enough to sort of brute force my way through v2s, but it doesn't work on v3s. And there are some top rope routes where I just go, well this is unfair! Can't even go 3 moves up. What's the learning curve to expect from here? Is there any way to do technique training besides isolating a challenging route?

Tarnien
Jul 4, 2003
Champion of the World!!!

For technique, the best thing you can do is watch someone who is stronger than you and copy what they do. Feel free to ask for advice from people who look like they know what they're doing, most are happy to help.

And just keep climbing. 2 months is a very short time for climbing, and you should be happy about doing v3's. Specific training/drills can largely be put off until a year or two down the line. The best thing you can do to get better right now is just climb more often, and try climbs that may initially seem above your level (and copy the people who look like they know what they're doing).

Mahlertov Cocktail
Mar 1, 2010

I ate your Mahler avatar! Hahahaha!

Yeah, honestly it's pretty typical to be able to brute-force your way up to V3s if you have any sort of previous strength. As Tarnien already said, watch people who are better climbers than you, imitate them, do different things with your technique and just see what ends up working!

Electoral Surgery
Mar 19, 2010


I'm going to be moving to southern NH in January - does anyone have recommendations for or against gyms in the Nashua area?

numptyboy
Sep 6, 2004
somewhat pleasant


It was about here, that i started having to pay attention to technique a lot more(pushing grades is really subjective).
Things like trying different crimping methods, working on balance and figuring out how certain holds can be worked.

As other's have said just watch others do a certain move then replicate it and find out how you can use it yourself in other routes.

Also, i've found it useful to find out who set a route, if it's been a much taller/shorter person, you may have to find an alternative way of doing certain moves.

Brute forcing in the meantime is ok, as you'll improve your stregth while you try different things and suddenly that route you've been pushing will feel really easy.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx


Harness chat.

It's time to retire my old harness, so I picked up a Petzl Adjama last week. Hung in it in the store and everything, and it felt great. Took it out this weekend for a couple of days and discovered a couple of problems that made it less than ideal.

Use would be sport climbing, about 60/40 outdoors/gym. Weight isn't a huge consideration; just no big wall rigs or super light alpine setups. I've been trying on harnesses the last couple of days. I'm leaning towards the Mammut Togir Slide - nice gear loops, fits well, comfortable, reinforced lower tie-in point - but the retailer doesn't allow returns or exchanges. I get it, but I'm hesitant. I didn't discover the issues with the Adjama until I got to climb in it.

I've always had friends recommend Misty Mountain, and I like the idea of supporting a smaller company who makes their gear here by hand. I'd definitely shell out for one of the harnesses if I could try it first. No one on the Front Range stocks them, though, which seems insane. I called Misty Mountain today, and they'll return or exchange harnesses if the harness is just tried on.

Anyone have any other recommendations? Cost isn't a factor (read this as "I'd pay for dead bird if they make the best harness out there"); I kept my last harness for 6-7 years, and I'm planning on the same. Anyone climb in a Misty Mountain? I'm thinking about the Sonic, or maybe the Bolt.

Also considering the Edelrid Orion; I might be able to get one on pro deal.

Bud Manstrong fucked around with this message at 21:12 on Dec 2, 2014

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


some recent climbing adventures











jackchaos fucked around with this message at 00:08 on Dec 3, 2014

SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!


Can you timg those because they are massive.

Mahlertov Cocktail
Mar 1, 2010

I ate your Mahler avatar! Hahahaha!

They're also baller as gently caress. Thanks for posting!

chami
Mar 28, 2011

Keep it classy, boys~


Fun Shoe

Those are loving amazing. :stare: Can't wait to climb outdoors.

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


jackchaos posted:

some recent climbing adventures




Where's this?

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


Save me jeebus posted:

Where's this?

In order Moab, Joshua tree, and lovers leap Tahoe.

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


Thanks. Gotta head back to the land of my origins (CA) now that I climb, for sure!

Sigmund Fraud
Jul 31, 2005



Jackchaos those pics are amazing! It's been cloudy and too cold to climb here in Sweden for two months straight. No sun either so the rock has never had time to dry. Last time I went out was in early october. I'm going crazy.
We had a good invitational boulder comp at my home gym last week tho.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lwtdmaYI7WQ
Jimmy Webb, Adam Ondra, Jan Hojer, Jernej Kruder, Alex Megos and Daniel Woods attended. Problems ranging between 8a and 8b+ (V11-V14). I've not seen any of the local talent send one, but the route setters have come pretty close.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


That's so rad that legends was held at your gym! I should be getting out a few more places soon so if people like the pictures I can try to post some when I finish them.

Sigmund Fraud
Jul 31, 2005



So what are your goals for 2015? Mine's just a tick list of local routes.
Panta Rei (Örnberget, 7a)
Freaky Deaky Direkt (Nacka Kvarn, 7b)
Titta vi flyger (Flaten, 7a)
Himmler (Gåseborg, 7a+)
Anomalocaris (Ekoberget, 7a)
Pumpmaskin (Skevik, 7a+)
Gökägg (Ryssgraven, 7a)

E: Perhaps a bit premature to plan already but I need something to look forward to!

Mahlertov Cocktail
Mar 1, 2010

I ate your Mahler avatar! Hahahaha!

Honestly my goal for 2015 consists mainly of actually managing to go to the gym regularly. With university and traveling almost every weekend it's gotten hard to go more than once or twice a week :(

Assuming I do establish a good routine next year, my main goal is to climb at least one 8 in lead (German ratings - I think about a 5.12. Anyone have a comprehensive international rating system conversion table?).

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Sigmund Fraud
Jul 31, 2005



http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grade_%28climbing%29#Comparison_tables

An UIAA VIII- is ~ 6c/+ ~ 5.11b

E: It was pretty funny that UIAA grades are used in Geyikbayiri, Turkey too since most of the development in the area is by Germans. Soft grading too :)

Sigmund Fraud fucked around with this message at 09:48 on Dec 8, 2014

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