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Manstrocity
Apr 28, 2009


If your goal is to be an elite-level climber or something, than yeah, you're best off focusing on just climbing. However, there's a lot of benefits to the all-around level of fitness a regimen like 5x5 brings, even if the most direct way it will improve your climbing is by helping you be more comfortable with your shirt off, which will help you climb 1-2 grades harder. I lift and climb in parallel because I enjoy both, even if I progress at each a little more slowly. If it's helping you lose weight, that's going to improve your climbing, too.

And what covert ops wizard said. For the vast majority of climbers, hang/campus boards are just an efficient way to get injured and you're best off avoiding them for a long time.

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PRADA SLUT
Mar 14, 2006

There already is representation of women in board games. Just look at all my titty minis. What more representation do they need?


Has anyone used a training board at home? Are they worth picking up for those in-between days?

dirby
Sep 21, 2004


There are probably some very experienced climbers here who use them (I think I remember some discussion about them in the previous thread), but they don't appear to be for people just starting out, which it seemed like you might be.

Covert Ops Wizard posted:

IMO, specifically targeting muscles to work out (hangboard training, pull-ups) while climbing as a beginner is a great way to get a tendon injury.

Manstrocity posted:

For the vast majority of climbers, hang/campus boards are just an efficient way to get injured and you're best off avoiding them for a long time.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


Gonna have to agree with everyone and say that climbing is the best work out for climbing. Doing specific exercise doesn't ring as loud at lower grades then it does at higher grades. I've found that when you hit plateaus past bouldering v8 or so. Then training starts to help more.

henne
May 9, 2009

by exmarx


To jump on the hangboard discussion, anyone got recommendations? I've got 10+ years experience an am stating to climb hard again after a few years break from training. Taking it slow and smart with the training but I'm beginning to look at boards. Thinking of the DRCC V5.12 board which I've heard from people can be taken to 5.13/v9 with shims pretty easily. Anyone used one? I've got access to prodeals on metolius, EP, So-Ill and a few other companies but I'm not really liking what I'm seeing, though the EP kine board looks interesting.

YourCreation
Jan 4, 2004

A little creative surgery helps turn a few sick pets into a new and improved friend!


My Metolius Simulator 3D came in today and it is beautiful.

I will concur with everyone else - do not jump into fingerboard training right away. Tendons react to strain a lot more slowly to muscles, so if you do not work very slowly with them they are likely to get damaged.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

I was at a friend's house with a board from Detroit Rock Climbing Company, and it was really nice.

Walked
Apr 14, 2003



henne posted:

To jump on the hangboard discussion, anyone got recommendations? I've got 10+ years experience an am stating to climb hard again after a few years break from training. Taking it slow and smart with the training but I'm beginning to look at boards. Thinking of the DRCC V5.12 board which I've heard from people can be taken to 5.13/v9 with shims pretty easily. Anyone used one? I've got access to prodeals on metolius, EP, So-Ill and a few other companies but I'm not really liking what I'm seeing, though the EP kine board looks interesting.

I just got the DRCC board the other week. It's awesome as gently caress and I'm very impressed.

Petey
Nov 25, 2005

For who knows what is good for a person in life, during the few and meaningless days they pass through like a shadow? Who can tell them what will happen under the sun after they are gone?

Papercut posted:

I think the 2nd best exercise for climbing is yoga. Flexibility, balance, the body awareness to be able to move in very controlled ways, plus major shoulder and core strength are all huge for climbing.

My gym includes free yoga designed for climbing. It's awesome.

Covert Ops Wizard
Dec 27, 2006



Petey posted:

My gym includes free yoga designed for climbing. It's awesome.

Color me jealous

Papercut
Aug 24, 2005

The quickest substitution in the history of the NBA

Petey posted:

My gym includes free yoga designed for climbing. It's awesome.

My gym has free yoga and most of the teachers are climbers as well. It's awesome. I upped my regular 1 class per week to 3 classes per week while I nurse a finger injury and it's completely addictive. Two years ago, my wife had to drag me to get me to go to my first yoga class and now I'm trying to figure out ways to keep my yoga schedule once I start climbing again.

Stangg
Mar 17, 2009


I'm partial to the beast maker boards myself.

Chris!
Dec 1, 2004

E

English climbers - I currently go to K2 in Crawley which is a great climbing wall but is about an hours drive for me, which means I don't get to go as often as I'd like. Can anyone recommend any good walls near Brighton or Eastbourne area, or even other good climbs around Sussex? (Even if they're further away, just for some variation).

Brighton has a climbing wall but I've heard it's very small and not much good, we're still going to check it out at some point though.

Also I need to buy some climbing shoes as I'm tired of renting every time I go - I don't really want to buy online without trying first, any recommendations for shops which sell climbing shoes? I'm actually going to London this Friday, where I imagine there has to be a few good climbing outlets...

Chris! fucked around with this message at 16:54 on Feb 19, 2013

woink
May 27, 2004



henne posted:

To jump on the hangboard discussion, anyone got recommendations? I've got 10+ years experience an am stating to climb hard again after a few years break from training. Taking it slow and smart with the training but I'm beginning to look at boards. Thinking of the DRCC V5.12 board which I've heard from people can be taken to 5.13/v9 with shims pretty easily. Anyone used one? I've got access to prodeals on metolius, EP, So-Ill and a few other companies but I'm not really liking what I'm seeing, though the EP kine board looks interesting.

Check out the beastmaker hangboard if you haven't already. http://www.beastmaker.co.uk. They even have an iPhone app now for the lazy with their recommended workouts.

Also, they are made of wood and don't look like teletubby puke.

Discomancer
Aug 31, 2001

I'm on a cupcake caper!

Chris! posted:

Also I need to buy some climbing shoes as I'm tired of renting every time I go - I don't really want to buy online without trying first, any recommendations for shops which sell climbing shoes? I'm actually going to London this Friday, where I imagine there has to be a few good climbing outlets...
Gyms usually sell their shoes for dirt cheap--ask if you can just buy one of their rental pairs. It's nice to have something comfortable (less aggressive), cheap, and replaceable as a starter shoe because poor footwork will wear it through pretty quickly. Sure you can just resole a new shoe, but you can probably just buy the rental pair for less than it would cost to resole.

Reformed Tomboy
Feb 2, 2005

chu~~

Neat, a climbing thread! I recently (November-ish?) started climbing in a local gym. I've been doing only bouldering so far, but there's a roped gym that I have access to that I'll be checking out at some point.

There's a Metolius wooden hangboard at work that I use sometimes. I'm still new so I don't do pull-ups or anything on it, just hang for a bit.

PRADA SLUT
Mar 14, 2006

There already is representation of women in board games. Just look at all my titty minis. What more representation do they need?


Sans actual climbing and yoga, are there any exercises you can do at home on the in-between days?

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

Getting grip exercisers (or squeezing tennis balls) is a good one you can do at your desk. Various pull-up variations on a bar can be good as a way to get some hangboard motion without as much tendon strain. Core is always good.

Working the calves can actually help a lot with keeping your feet on small chips and preventing elvis leg.

Speleothing fucked around with this message at 06:18 on Feb 20, 2013

Covert Ops Wizard
Dec 27, 2006



PRADA SLUT posted:

Sans actual climbing and yoga, are there any exercises you can do at home on the in-between days?

It's this thing called rest. It's kind of important.

skudmunky
Apr 28, 2010


Covert Ops Wizard posted:

It's this thing called rest. It's kind of important.

Every few months I'm like "I'll climb two days in a row!"

It never works.

ZeroDays
Feb 11, 2007

the fuck you know about what i need on my mind mother fucker

Speleothing posted:

Working the calves can actually help a lot with keeping your feet on small chips and preventing elvis leg.

Heh, I'm not sure what you mean by elvis leg, but I can take a guess, as when I'm standing on a chip for too long, my leg starts shaking uh-uuh-huh elvis style. Calf work helps this? I've been climbing for a few months.

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


Surf! Great cross sport.

Covert Ops Wizard
Dec 27, 2006



Argh, just started getting back into a lifting/climbing routine with some new goals in mind after being sick and occupied with renovating my house, and managed to pull a muscle in my neck doing some bouldering. Already iced it and am planning on taking some tramadol before I go to sleep, but sheesh. Gimme a break life!

Though I did have some goofy fun today playing at blind bouldering, (which is not how I got injured, thankfully, or I'd feel pretty stupid) where you just pick a section of wall and try to get up as high as possible with your eyes closed. Tons of fun, just place your pads!

MiamiKid
Dec 14, 2003


Some friends and I are considering heading out to Colorado during the second week of March, and I was wondering if anyone had any insight into a couple things that I've been thinking about.

Browsing through Mountain Project, I've seen some threads recommending Cańon City for that time of year, in terms of best chances for (relatively) warm weather. I've seen some comments regarding the more immediate Denver/Boulder area being somewhat cooler. Anyone from the area/climbed the area in that time care to comment?

Secondly, I'm struggling to come up with a jacket to belay in. We're going to be doing single pitch sport climbing primarily, with an occasional multi-pitch climb. I'd like to stay warm when wandering around the base of the crag and belaying. What are you all wearing for that purpose? I've looked at the Patagonia DAS, but it seems like a bit of overkill for what I'd be doing. It doesn't seem like many jackets have the dual zipper built for belaying though, which surprises me.

Thanks!

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



I've been climbing in a nice thermal fleece racing jacket. Sure, it's odd to have a bicycle thermal jacket on, but it stretches, keeps me warm, and packs easily.

Petey
Nov 25, 2005

For who knows what is good for a person in life, during the few and meaningless days they pass through like a shadow? Who can tell them what will happen under the sun after they are gone?

Just had my first nice flapper in a long time today:



Trimmed off the skin. It doesn't seem to be that deep - didn't hurt when I washed it out, just a little sore when I bend my finger. What's a good rule of thumb to let it heal before I boulder around again? Or do I just tape it?

pokchu
Aug 22, 2007
D:

Depends how badly you want to climb. I'd just tape it up and keep on rolling.

Covert Ops Wizard
Dec 27, 2006



Just tape it when you climb, maybe give it a couple days to heal/dry up before you climb again. Don't put a bandaid on it or tape it when not climbing or doing something where you'd need to protect it, it'll just take longer to heal.

Stangg
Mar 17, 2009


I've found the climb On balm bar to be really good for flappers, just chip some off at night and pack it into the skin and it really speeds up the healing.

The Supreme Court
Feb 25, 2010

Pirate World: Nearly done!

Eat it and gain the rock's power.

(You should be fine to climb on it taped, but as the others have said, giving it a short rest isn't a bad idea.)

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



MiamiKid posted:

Some friends and I are considering heading out to Colorado during the second week of March, and I was wondering if anyone had any insight into a couple things that I've been thinking about.

Browsing through Mountain Project, I've seen some threads recommending Cańon City for that time of year, in terms of best chances for (relatively) warm weather. I've seen some comments regarding the more immediate Denver/Boulder area being somewhat cooler. Anyone from the area/climbed the area in that time care to comment?

Secondly, I'm struggling to come up with a jacket to belay in. We're going to be doing single pitch sport climbing primarily, with an occasional multi-pitch climb. I'd like to stay warm when wandering around the base of the crag and belaying. What are you all wearing for that purpose? I've looked at the Patagonia DAS, but it seems like a bit of overkill for what I'd be doing. It doesn't seem like many jackets have the dual zipper built for belaying though, which surprises me.

Thanks!

It is hard to say on the weather. Shelf road will be your best bet. In Denver it could be good or terrible. This Saturday and Sunday it was 65, right now it is snowing and 14. So you never know what you will get. March is really the same.

Shelf will be sweet for sport climbing though. If you are around Denver though clear creek canyon is really enjoyable.

PRADA SLUT
Mar 14, 2006

There already is representation of women in board games. Just look at all my titty minis. What more representation do they need?


I picked up a new pair of shoes but they dig into the back of my heel (they're not broken in yet, I know they're the right size).

Should I just suck it up and throw a bandaid on it until they break in?

Boreal Kryptos

Covert Ops Wizard
Dec 27, 2006



PRADA SLUT posted:

I picked up a new pair of shoes but they dig into the back of my heel (they're not broken in yet, I know they're the right size).

Should I just suck it up and throw a bandaid on it until they break in?

Boreal Kryptos

Yup. Climbing is pain princess.


Seriously though you're gonna be rubbed raw until they get broken in or you get callouses there, if it's too painful I would suggest wrapping tape over the affected area, a band-aid is gonna get ripped right off.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Covert Ops Wizard posted:

Yup. Climbing is pain princess.


Seriously though you're gonna be rubbed raw until they get broken in or you get callouses there, if it's too painful I would suggest wrapping tape over the affected area, a band-aid is gonna get ripped right off.

I take a different approach, and just don't buy shoes that rub. My aggressive shoes are not even remotely comfortable, but that is because my toes are smashed in. They don't rub anywhere. I assume that it is the stitching on the heel seam that is rubbing? That would drive me nuts. If the stitching rubs or the top of the shoe digs into my ankle, I try on a different pair. There are enough shoes out there that I can find a different pair I like better.

Covert Ops Wizard
Dec 27, 2006



Eh, they're gonna flex and rub a little, especially if PRADA SLUT is fairly new to climbing and hasn't had the experience to know what's good and what's not, what's the smallest size they can wear and so on. I put up with a little discomfort on the outside of the heel on my sportivas while I'm breaking them in because they're so good on the wall.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

I guess it is all perspective. I don't know how new PRADA SLUT is to climbing, so yours may be a fair assessment. I have a pair of La Sportiva Miura VS, and love them (although I don't notice any rubbing in the heel). They are anything but comfortable, and I have to throw on a pair of sandals between climbs when I am belaying.

Covert Ops Wizard
Dec 27, 2006



armorer posted:

I guess it is all perspective. I don't know how new PRADA SLUT is to climbing, so yours may be a fair assessment. I have a pair of La Sportiva Miura VS, and love them (although I don't notice any rubbing in the heel). They are anything but comfortable, and I have to throw on a pair of sandals between climbs when I am belaying.

That's my shoe too! I think what it is is while my heel is locked in super solid, the upper flexes while I climb so the edge digs into my ankle a little. I think that's what PRADA SLUT is experiencing.

PRADA SLUT
Mar 14, 2006

There already is representation of women in board games. Just look at all my titty minis. What more representation do they need?


It's right at the top edge on the back (like lower Achilles' tendon, not inside the shoe). It's from the edge rubbing, not some internal stitching. I had the fit checked, they aren't loose or anything.

It's like where your Chucks would rub in the back if you weren't wearing any socks.

Would one of those fat band aids be okay or would it slip off too easily? Tape it? Sack the gently caress up and deal?

benwards
Apr 9, 2007

Another youthful indiscretion


PRADA SLUT posted:

It's right at the top edge on the back (like lower Achilles' tendon, not inside the shoe). It's from the edge rubbing, not some internal stitching. I had the fit checked, they aren't loose or anything.

It's like where your Chucks would rub in the back if you weren't wearing any socks.

Would one of those fat band aids be okay or would it slip off too easily? Tape it? Sack the gently caress up and deal?

Tape it if it's really bugging you, but otherwise just deal with it. Your shoe will soften up a bit with time, and you'll develop tougher skin on the back of your heel. Eventually it'll make putting the shoes on and taking them off easier, too.

e: if it's rubbing through enough to make you bleed, tape it. If not, don't; and climb more.

e2: actually just climb more :colbert:

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armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

In general, the leather parts of climbing shoes will soften up and stretch, while the rubber parts will mostly retain their shape. The heel of the shoe you mention is completely wrapped in rubber, with maybe a millimeter or so peeking out at the top.




The heel on those shoes is unlikely to soften up very much at all, even after months of wear. That little lip may soften up enough to more comfortable, but it is hard to say for sure. It is more likely that your foot will break in than the shoe in this case.

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