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Mahlertov Cocktail
Mar 1, 2010

I ate your Mahler avatar! Hahahaha!

Agreed about Black Diamond harnesses. I've had mine for a couple years now and I've always been happy with it.

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www.amazon.com
Nov 5, 2012


Does that mean you don't like the petzl brand harnesses?

According to REI what they have in store from black diamond are the:

Black Diamond Momentum and that's it. along with the momentum kit with the belay package and chalk bag.

It seems what is available to try on might be somewhat limited. unless I wanna bother with rei return policy and online order some stuff just to try it on and maybe return it in store. which doesn't work at all if I ask my grandma for something.

www.amazon.com fucked around with this message at 08:30 on Feb 2, 2015

Pedestrian Xing
Jul 18, 2007



Can't speak for the petzl harnesses, but the BD Momentum is a great harness and the package deal is really nice. The chalk bag was a bit too small for my hands, but might be fine for others.

www.amazon.com
Nov 5, 2012


as far as package deals. I see this
http://www.rei.com/product/880934/black-diamond-momentum-climbing-harness-package-mens black diamond momentum package

Then I look on the black diamond website and see they have what they call the momentum ds harness available as a package or just harness:
http://blackdiamondequipment.com/en/climbing-harnesses/momentum-ds-combo-BD651064_cfg.html#start=13 Momentum DS combo package http://www.moosejaw.com/moosejaw/shop/product_Black-Diamond-Momentum-DS-Combo_10235667_10208_10000001_-1_ just because black diamond doesn't have the smaller size in stock.
http://blackdiamondequipment.com/en/climbing-harnesses/momentum-ds-harness-BD651065_cfg.html#start=14 Momentum DS just harness

edit again;
guess I have a thousand questions. I see this momentum SA harness from black diamond as a package. can anyone tell me what are the real differences between these options.
http://blackdiamondequipment.com/en/climbing-harnesses/momentum-sa-harness-package-BD651041_cfg.html

www.amazon.com fucked around with this message at 09:09 on Feb 2, 2015

CoasterMaster
Aug 13, 2003

The Emperor of the Rides



Nap Ghost

Re: harness chat

Any opinions on the Black Diamond Flight? I do mostly indoor and sport climbing, but the big thing stopping me from picking one up is the lack of a chalk bag loop . I guess I could use a be,t though...

Mahlertov Cocktail
Mar 1, 2010

I ate your Mahler avatar! Hahahaha!

Pedestrian Xing posted:

Can't speak for the petzl harnesses, but the BD Momentum is a great harness and the package deal is really nice. The chalk bag was a bit too small for my hands, but might be fine for others.

This is exactly what I got. I do want to replace the chalk bag with a slightly bigger one at some point, but I'm a cheap fucker and it doesn't bother me too much so I haven't bothered yet

I've only used a petzl harness once as a rental, but it was fine. I didn't have any problems but I didn't use it for that long so I can't really say much.

asur
Dec 28, 2012


www.amazon.com posted:

as far as package deals. I see this
http://www.rei.com/product/880934/black-diamond-momentum-climbing-harness-package-mens black diamond momentum package

Then I look on the black diamond website and see they have what they call the momentum ds harness available as a package or just harness:
http://blackdiamondequipment.com/en/climbing-harnesses/momentum-ds-combo-BD651064_cfg.html#start=13 Momentum DS combo package http://www.moosejaw.com/moosejaw/shop/product_Black-Diamond-Momentum-DS-Combo_10235667_10208_10000001_-1_ just because black diamond doesn't have the smaller size in stock.
http://blackdiamondequipment.com/en/climbing-harnesses/momentum-ds-harness-BD651065_cfg.html#start=14 Momentum DS just harness

edit again;
guess I have a thousand questions. I see this momentum SA harness from black diamond as a package. can anyone tell me what are the real differences between these options.
http://blackdiamondequipment.com/en/climbing-harnesses/momentum-sa-harness-package-BD651041_cfg.html

The big differences between harnesses are comfort and stuff related to the gear loops, none of which really matters if you don't trad lead or multi pitch. You want something that fits well and isn't uncomfortable to wear, but in the gym or on single pitch you don't hang in your harness for any significant period of time. I'd recommend that you get the BD package as it's cheap and a pretty good harness that is relative comfortable and has easy access to the belt loops for gear. At some point in the future you may want to upgrade, but I'd wait till that point and just go with the cheap option now.

You didn't ask about shoes, but I'd recommend the same approach. Buy a cheap shoe that fits well as you'll beat the poo poo out of it as a beginner and then once you're more experienced you can decide on the type of shoe(s) that you want.

www.amazon.com
Nov 5, 2012


Ya i'm thinking I'll spend some of my tax return to grab some shoes. I was thinking to keep it around 100 bucks or so hopefully. the gym I joined gave me a 20% off coupon for any one item which I was thinking to use for shoes. They have a small selection to try on but I'll have to see if they will order something to use my coupon towards if I can find more selection to try on elsewhere. would the sportiva tarantulace or nago; or oxygym which don't seem to be listed as in store at rei, shoes be a decent option for something cheap to get the job done. At this point I would rather just have something I could wear the whole time im climbing without having to take off every time I get off a climb so my feet aren't murdered.

www.amazon.com fucked around with this message at 10:06 on Feb 2, 2015

Mahlertov Cocktail
Mar 1, 2010

I ate your Mahler avatar! Hahahaha!

My first pair were Evolv Defys, which were quite good as beginner shoes. I think they're pretty common for that purpose. IIRC they cost something like 90 bucks, so right in your desired price range.

What did others have for your first shoes?

asur
Dec 28, 2012


I had a MadRocks shoe that they don't seem to make anymore, but it was like the a laced Drifter. I think it was $60 at REI. The Tarantulace seems like a good shoe, but you can probably find a cheaper shoe if you look around. I'd personally avoid Evolv as everyone I know that has bought their shoes has complained about them smelling and then not had problems when switching to another brand. I've never bough synthetic so maybe someone else can comment on the stretch for them, but if you buy a leather shoe expect it to stretch between half to a full size, which means it needs to be really tight when you try it on.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



I've used both the momentum and DS version. No real difference in comfort. Like someone said, if you're not hang dogging constantly you'll be fine.

All synthetics smell. The more synth and cotton in the shoe, the worse it will be. Cedar chips/shoe bananas/tinactin spray will all keep the odor away, as will machine washing the shoe. Depending on the manufacturer, you can also get away with rubbing alcohol.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx


Yeah, the Momentums are fine harnesses. I had one for entirely too long, and it was comfortable and well made. No problems with it at all; go for it.

Just got a Misty Mountain Sonic, and I love it. Comfortable as hell, light enough, made in . I dig the gear loop design. They sit vertical, but they hold gear a little out from the harness when they're loaded. The loops are a little thin, so it can be tricky if you're trying to pull a notch-gate biner quickly.

I tried an Adjama. It fit great in the store, but after a weekend of climbing, it definitely wasn't right. Leg loops just didn't work for me. If the leg loops are comfortable to sit in, go nuts. It's a great harness.

borapt
Jul 14, 2008


Anyone know any good bouldering spots around Santa Barbara/Santa Monica/Pasadena area or on the way from the Bay Area? Heading down there and want to try out some climbing on the way.

SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!


I bought a 2014 momentum last year, I don't exactly love it. It's my first harness and I find that it bites a bit. Specifically the leg loops ride up on the back and well taking a big fall isn't supposed to feel great but boy howdy I've lost some *ahem* sensation in places when the leg loops slide. The hip belt is also a tad thin/unpadded in places.

I may just need to adjust it so the loops sit lower, but other than that it's a pretty good harness, go for it! I just need to htfu!

www.amazon.com
Nov 5, 2012


I got around to stopping at rei today to try some harnesses on and of the bunch I tried on the black diamond momentum turned out to be the one that seemed to fit the best. I posted up above about a few momentum harnesses that were somehow different. ie the DS and SA. Would it be safe to assume that they should fit the same. I'm still not even really sure what the differences are after looking at specs and stuff.

Edit... Maybe that question is not on point considering the DS version only comes in 2 sizes s-m and l-xl whereas the SA version has all the individual sizes listed. crap.

www.amazon.com fucked around with this message at 05:43 on Feb 3, 2015

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Movement Denver is pretty cool but man is it packed after work. It is the most obvious time to go but they probably could have made the place twice as big and it still will be extremely busy. The setting is pretty sweet though, some awesome bouldering problems for sure.

magicalmako
Feb 13, 2005


borapt posted:

Anyone know any good bouldering spots around Santa Barbara/Santa Monica/Pasadena area or on the way from the Bay Area? Heading down there and want to try out some climbing on the way.

Santa Barbara has Lizards Mouth, the Brickyard and the Playground, all sandstone.

There is Stoney Point, south of Santa Barbara for more sandstone fun.

henne
May 9, 2009

by exmarx


www.amazon.com posted:

I got around to stopping at rei today to try some harnesses on and of the bunch I tried on the black diamond momentum turned out to be the one that seemed to fit the best. I posted up above about a few momentum harnesses that were somehow different. ie the DS and SA. Would it be safe to assume that they should fit the same. I'm still not even really sure what the differences are after looking at specs and stuff.

Edit... Maybe that question is not on point considering the DS version only comes in 2 sizes s-m and l-xl whereas the SA version has all the individual sizes listed. crap.

It appears that the DS has a Double Sided adjustment, whereas the SA has a Single Adjustment point. I think that's the only difference and unless you need crazy size range I'd go with the SA. I've used some of petzel's double adjust harnesses and I don't like how they sit but once again YMMV and BD might do it better.

guppy
Sep 21, 2004

sting like a byob

henne posted:

I have an older version of that harness and really like it. That said the leg loops aren't adjustable and I think they run small. I tighten the waist belt all the way to fit and the leg loops barely fit over my (not very big) thighs. I actually got the harness when a friend couldn't get it over his legs and he gave it to me. I don't like the petzl harnesses with the double waist adjustment but have been very happy with all of the Black Diamond harnesses I have owned/worn, as have all of my friends with BD harnesses. Most harnesses and load bearing climbing gear in general isn't returnable, so I'd highly advise trying one on before you buy if at all possible.

I have an Adjama. I like it, although I seem to be right in the middle of two sizes, so I have the bigger one and just tighten it down a lot. I was thinking of changing to a Corax when this one wears out because of the double-buckle waist. Why didn't you like that?

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

I have an Adjama and have been quite happy with it. It fits me well, has ample gear loops for all my outdoor needs, and has an easy to adjust single cinch. My only complaint about it really is that I have to wear a S because they don't make a men's XS, and so it fits me when it is cinched all the way down. At that point though the gear loops are skewed a bit counter clockwise. Pretty minor complaint all things considered.

Still B.A.E
Mar 24, 2012



I've got a Petzl corax and I hate it. I'm 6'4 with a small waist, and there's just not enough room between the belt and leg loops. Should have got a bigger size I guess, but I just went off what the guy in the shop recommended as I'd only just started climbing at that point, and it was the best feeling of the ones they had. I would replace it, but I can't remember the last time I actually tied into a rope, so whatever. Oh and the gear loops are poo poo, too.

On the off chance I do get something else, any recommendations for tall + small waist? I've heard Edelrid can be quite good for that.

Electoral Surgery
Mar 19, 2010


Does anyone have recommendations for preventing and dealing with callouses? I've been sanding mine, but it's tough to get the ones at the base of my fingers without tearing up my palms.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

^^ Balm ^^

I've had a Momentum and an Adjama. The adjama is much more comfortable, but I definitely agree about having to cinch it down way too far.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx


Speleothing posted:

^^ Balm ^^

I've had a Momentum and an Adjama. The adjama is much more comfortable, but I definitely agree about having to cinch it down way too far.

The cinching and resulting imbalance of the gear loops is one of the reasons the Adjama didn't work for me, so third on that, I guess. The other reason is that no matter how I adjusted it, the leg loops destroyed my gentleman's region. So there's that.

tortilla_chip
Jun 13, 2007

k-partite

turevidar posted:

Does anyone have recommendations for preventing and dealing with callouses? I've been sanding mine, but it's tough to get the ones at the base of my fingers without tearing up my palms.

I glue sandpaper to a dowel that I chopped down to 6 inches or so.

chami
Mar 28, 2011

Keep it classy, boys~


Fun Shoe

turevidar posted:

Does anyone have recommendations for preventing and dealing with callouses? I've been sanding mine, but it's tough to get the ones at the base of my fingers without tearing up my palms.

Those cheese grater callus shavers work wonders. I think there are narrower ones that can help you out.

henne
May 9, 2009

by exmarx


guppy posted:

I have an Adjama. I like it, although I seem to be right in the middle of two sizes, so I have the bigger one and just tighten it down a lot. I was thinking of changing to a Corax when this one wears out because of the double-buckle waist. Why didn't you like that?

It sags in the the front on me and everyone I've seen wearing it. Its also a pain to adjust two buckles and the tail management is absolute poo poo even compared to other petzl harnesses. It's also one of the least comfortable harnesses for me to hang in I've ever worn including some really lightweight sport harnesses I've used.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx


chami posted:

Those cheese grater callus shavers work wonders. I think there are narrower ones that can help you out.

This:

http://www.amazon.com/Microplane-Colossal-Pedicure-Rasp-Foot/dp/B008A1TI4K

A thousand times this. There are smaller ones that do a better job getting the ones that form at the top of the palm, but this thing is amazing. And horrifying.

Electoral Surgery
Mar 19, 2010


Bud Manstrong posted:

This:

http://www.amazon.com/Microplane-Colossal-Pedicure-Rasp-Foot/dp/B008A1TI4K

A thousand times this. There are smaller ones that do a better job getting the ones that form at the top of the palm, but this thing is amazing. And horrifying.

That is absolutely terrifying. Thanks!

www.amazon.com
Nov 5, 2012


I tried on some harnesses and now some shoes. The only two that REI really had that were in the 100 or under range were from la sportiva. The Tarantulace and the nago. On the specs it lists it using the same shape and last although I think it is a bit difference. The nago seemed like the toe was downturned a bit more and the heel seemed to have a lot better hold although at the top it felt to dig into my heal a bit. They do list a different rubber on the sole. vibram XS vs. frixion RS for the Tarantulace. I don't really know anything about the different rubber types but the Tarantulace seems like it would be a bit more comfortable to just wear and never take off and the sportiva Nago seems like it might be a little bit more aggressive, if not slightly more uncomfortable for long times.

Do you think that is an accurate perception. I think I just want to get my first shoe from a place I can try on all different sizes and before I waste my tax return on something totally useless.

SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!


I bought nagos about 6 months ago as my first shoe. Get them smaller than you think is "comfortable" slightly uncomfortable & tight is what you're looking for, mine have definitely stretched.

Edit: FYI the red dye will definitely run and stain your feet

SeaborneClink fucked around with this message at 05:41 on Feb 6, 2015

Suicide Watch
Sep 8, 2009


Neither is particularly an aggressive shoe, plenty of people use either as a first pair. Unless you're just starting out you should try another store.

Ravenfood
Nov 4, 2011


SeaborneClink posted:

I bought nagos about 6 months ago as my first shoe. Get them smaller than you think is "comfortable" slightly uncomfortable & tight is what you're looking for, mine have definitely stretched.

Edit: FYI the red dye will definitely run and stain your feet
The Nago has been a really solid first shoe for me, too. They stretch, but not too much. I wouldn't call it particularly aggressive or downturned. They fit better on my feet than the Tarantulace, but that's going to be a personal preference thing.

e: Also the double-takes from the dye are hilarious every time.

SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!


Ravenfood posted:

The Nago has been a really solid first shoe for me, too. They stretch, but not too much. I wouldn't call it particularly aggressive or downturned. They fit better on my feet than the Tarantulace, but that's going to be a personal preference thing.

e: Also the double-takes from the dye are hilarious every time.

I didn't mean to imply they ballooned out like 5 sizes, I just meant that they definitely DID stretch. I wear about a size 11-12US and bought a 10 or 10.5 I'm not quite certain. I'd say they've stretched out about a half size or so.

I also definitely have some formerly white Nike Dri-Fit socks that are a lovely shade of pink from throwing my socks & street shoes back on after the gym.

www.amazon.com
Nov 5, 2012


So I ordered these shoes on closeout. I tried on 3 different styles of evolv shoes and the 9.5 or 42.5 felt the best on all three styles so I hope these work out well.
http://www.evolvsports.com/shop/closeout/geshido/

I'm still a beginner and 90% do top rope stuff and im starting to do a bit of boldering when im not dead tired. I'm hoping these are a good balance between flat general purpose shoes while still not being super aggressive. It seemed to be a good deal anyways.

Business of Ferrets
Mar 2, 2008

Good to see that everything is back to normal.

I'm still on my first shoes and harness after about a year of climbing. 5.10 Spire for shoes and Petzl Corax for the harness. Both have been really good to me, and I've used them for both trad and gym climbing. For my somewhat-wide feet, the unlined Spire has been great. I've found the Corax to fit well and have everything I've needed. The adjustable leg loops are nice for layering up in the cold, and the wide size range means I can loan it out to friends if needed. YMMV, etc.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Business of Ferrets posted:

I'm still on my first shoes and harness after about a year of climbing. 5.10 Spire for shoes and Petzl Corax for the harness. Both have been really good to me, and I've used them for both trad and gym climbing. For my somewhat-wide feet, the unlined Spire has been great. I've found the Corax to fit well and have everything I've needed. The adjustable leg loops are nice for layering up in the cold, and the wide size range means I can loan it out to friends if needed. YMMV, etc.

You will wear out your shoes (many pairs) long before you wear out your harness. Even if you climb a ton, your harness should be the longest lived of any of your soft goods, including your rope.

Recycle Bin
Feb 7, 2001

I'd rather be a pig than a fascist

I've got a couple questions to throw out here:

1) How does everyone like to warm up before climbing? How about cooling down?

2) How do like to structure your climbing time? For me I'm still getting comfortable with basic techniques so I'm just climbing poo poo at random, but soon I'd like to start going in to the gym with some plan in mind.

Falkaugaa
Feb 13, 2010


Recycle Bin posted:

I've got a couple questions to throw out here:

1) How does everyone like to warm up before climbing? How about cooling down?

I start off with a couple of joint circles for the shoulders, wrists and hips, then proceed to a few (3-5ish) lat shrugs (I'm not really sure what these are called, it's like pulling half way to a front lever, pushing down on the bar with straight arms) then do some traversing and light bouldering until I feel "warm". This usually takes about 30-45min in total. For cooling down I'll do some stretching on a good day, but nothing at all on most days.

Recycle Bin posted:

2) How do like to structure your climbing time? For me I'm still getting comfortable with basic techniques so I'm just climbing poo poo at random, but soon I'd like to start going in to the gym with some plan in mind.

If you're still working on the basic techniques, I'd try to focus on developing those first and foremost. That means climbing as normal, but try to analyze your movement as much as possible, both when you're on the wall and after you've come off. A good practice I got into after my first shoulder injury was looking for stable (ie I can hold this forever) positions after each move. Move slowly, statically and with control as much as possible, look for stable positions and experiment with flagging your feet to find these positions. (Climbing: the thinking man's yoga)

Try to work on different types of holds as much as possible, try any route or problem that looks fun, no matter the grade.

In summary; climb as much as your body can handle, but be analytical about it.

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henne
May 9, 2009

by exmarx


Also traverse a lot if you are working on technique, a good way to work on movement without using a lot of strength.

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