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Business of Ferrets
Mar 2, 2008

Good to see that everything is back to normal.

armorer posted:

You will wear out your shoes (many pairs) long before you wear out your harness. Even if you climb a ton, your harness should be the longest lived of any of your soft goods, including your rope.

Oh no doubt. Just wanted to make it clear I didn't have a bunch of experience with different harnesses, but that I was pleased with the one I had. The thing still looks practically brand new, while my shoes do not. . . .

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spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Recycle Bin posted:

I've got a couple questions to throw out here:

1) How does everyone like to warm up before climbing? How about cooling down?

2) How do like to structure your climbing time? For me I'm still getting comfortable with basic techniques so I'm just climbing poo poo at random, but soon I'd like to start going in to the gym with some plan in mind.

In the gym I warm up by climbing a few V0-V1 or a nice long 5.9. I stretch a bit and that is that. Outside I usually try to get on an easy route but sometimes it is just a well time to go for it since what I want to get on is the easiest thing there.

I don't really have a plan, I just climb for fun. If it looks fun and pushes me I go for it.

IrvingWashington
Dec 9, 2007


Clapping Larry

Hey folks, http://theclymb.com has some awesome So Ill hang boards for less than $30 each - I got me one of each, and they own. I particularly like the mini palm, which has some interesting pinches as well as those big ball slopers. You have to be okay with a couple dragons on that one, and a HARDCORE SKULL on the other (which is all crimpy) but for thirty bucks I can overlook that. I thought from the name the mini would be kind of small, but they are both decently sized. I really like the texture of So Ill's holds - they make up the bulk of holds on my training wall - so I was super stoked to find both boards for less than the price of one.

You're probably all members already, but if not use this link http://vnlink.co/Sv4ahiw and if you buy something we both get $10, or just go take a look if you're not into that.

Mini Palm: http://soillholds.com/collections/hangboards/products/mini-palm
Crimp Reaper: http://soillholds.com/collections/hangboards/products/crimp-reaper

e: Got them up today, here they are:



IrvingWashington fucked around with this message at 00:23 on Feb 16, 2015

Dutymode
Dec 31, 2008


I don't think anyone's mentioned ABS Open Nationals yet...Finals were Feb. 7th, replay here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eTq50mRohoU

Climbing starts at 29:30.

RattiRatto
Jun 26, 2014

:gary: :I'd like to borrow $200M
:whatfor:
:gary: :To make vidya game


Goon climber here. Just saw this thread for the first time.
I love rocks, i hate indoor(boring). I always tend to go outdoor. I'm not a fan of the super hard pitch, i am more for a beautiful view at the end of the climb. I usually go for the sport climbing. Sadly i haven't climbed for more than two months :(

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


Climbing is applicable for shooting photos. Have more of the recent ccs comp I took if requested.



IrvingWashington
Dec 9, 2007


Clapping Larry

jackchaos posted:

Climbing is applicable for shooting photos. Have more of the recent ccs comp I took if requested.





Never not post more climbing pics

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008










Sorry pics came out a little yellow.

Tsietisin
Jul 2, 2004

Time passes quickly on the weekend.

I am an utter utter beginner to this.

Couple of years ago, completely afraid of heights. Took myself up a couple of those tree top traversal courses and eliminated most of that fear. Last weekend I took a beginners course at one of the local sites here in Bristol, UK.

I was happy to make my way to the top of the courses there and think I got rid of my fear of heights. I'll continue indoors for now however.

This is something I really want to carry on with. I've finally found a physical exercise that I can get along with and enjoy. I have yet to get any of my own equipment and rely on renting at the centre, but thats free for me for the next month so I am not too bothered.

There were a lot of things that surprised me about myself over the weekend, I am intrigued to see how far I can go.

RattiRatto
Jun 26, 2014

:gary: :I'd like to borrow $200M
:whatfor:
:gary: :To make vidya game


A few months ago i moved into the Netherlands. Sadly enough, there is no hills/mountain in the whole country. The closest climbing mountain side is around 6 hours by car. I'm terribly sad :(

Sigmund Fraud
Jul 31, 2005




Went bouldering yesterday in 5 degrees below freezing. Not doing that again. Pretty good session tho.

RattiRatto
Jun 26, 2014

:gary: :I'd like to borrow $200M
:whatfor:
:gary: :To make vidya game


Freezing bouldering? I unfortunately did it once after it rained: it felt like skying given how much I was sliding and slipping on the rocks.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

RattiRatto posted:

A few months ago i moved into the Netherlands. Sadly enough, there is no hills/mountain in the whole country. The closest climbing mountain side is around 6 hours by car. I'm terribly sad :(

I know it's not real rock, but there is a fantastic climbing gym in Groningen.

RattiRatto
Jun 26, 2014

:gary: :I'd like to borrow $200M
:whatfor:
:gary: :To make vidya game


armorer posted:

I know it's not real rock, but there is a fantastic climbing gym in Groningen.

Yep i have been there, it's really nice. I think it's the highest climbing tower in the world. However it cannot replace the feeling you have when you have actual rocks under your fingers



armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

RattiRatto posted:

Yep i have been there, it's really nice. I think it's the highest climbing tower in the world. However it cannot replace the feeling you have when you have actual rocks under your fingers



Yeah definitely understood. That country is flat.

As for the gym though, the tower is cool and gets all the attention in the media, but the gym itself is really large and nice as well.

RattiRatto
Jun 26, 2014

:gary: :I'd like to borrow $200M
:whatfor:
:gary: :To make vidya game


armorer posted:

Yeah definitely understood. That country is flat.

As for the gym though, the tower is cool and gets all the attention in the media, but the gym itself is really large and nice as well.

Good to know, i haven't checked the gym the only time i went there so i'll keep it in mind for the next time

big scary monsters
Sep 2, 2011

-~Skullwave~-


Tsietisin posted:

I am an utter utter beginner to this.

Couple of years ago, completely afraid of heights. Took myself up a couple of those tree top traversal courses and eliminated most of that fear. Last weekend I took a beginners course at one of the local sites here in Bristol, UK.

I was happy to make my way to the top of the courses there and think I got rid of my fear of heights. I'll continue indoors for now however.

This is something I really want to carry on with. I've finally found a physical exercise that I can get along with and enjoy. I have yet to get any of my own equipment and rely on renting at the centre, but thats free for me for the next month so I am not too bothered.

There were a lot of things that surprised me about myself over the weekend, I am intrigued to see how far I can go.

Next stop: Avon Gorge.

I've not been to any of the roped climbing walls in Bristol but if you get into bouldering I can recommend Bloc Climbing. Good range of problems, lots of different angles, the temperature is decent and the music isn't too offensively bad. The cakes are good too.

SeaborneClink
Aug 27, 2010

MAWP... MAWP!


Bought a GriGri happy late christmas to me :gbsmith:

Loaned the group next to me a locking biner today, as between the 3 of them no one had a locker :shrug: Didn't want to be judgmental, maybe they left the house without it, I've got extras no problem. As I was taking my gear down, I noticed that their rope sheath was pretty fuzzy about 6ft from the live end. Mentioned off hand that I noticed there was a bit of wear on it, his response "Oh... Really? Do you think that's a big deal?" :stare:

Packed up my stuff and as I was leaving he was taking down his anchor, a length of tubular webbing, pulled to a V and clipped, but hey at least it was clipped with two biners :stonklol:

I've only been climbing for a year, but holy poo poo man. I don't want to start a PYF Climbing Horrors, but how common is stupid poo poo like this?

French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience


Lots of ways to build an anchor. If he had only one webbing strap and not a backup hidden in there...kind of dumb.

As for frizzy rope, I've seen some amazing climbers on awful equipment. How frizzy was it actually?

No locking biner on the belay device is risky as well.

I'd say it's still rare to see such a setup outdoors. Indoors is another story.

Fatkraken
Jun 23, 2005

Fun-time is over.

Is the foundry centre in Sheffield any good? I've never climbed and I want to do a taster course, they offer one and from the pics they have a pretty cool setup

Dumbdog
Sep 13, 2011


The foundry is great. I used to boulder there a lot and most people I know who do routes go there. Living in Sheffield and climbing is the best. Your so close to the peak.

toiletbrush
May 17, 2010


So I've been practicing avoiding crimps as much as possible and open handing instead and I'm feeling pretty strong on normally really crimpy holds. The only thing is, my middle finger is about 2cm longer than the ones either side so its kinda 'hooked' when a lot of weight is on my hands - if my finger is hooky, is this position still much better than a crimp in terms of being kind to my fingers/pulleys?

Prancing Shoes
Jul 7, 2008


Can anyone recommend a harness that would be used exclusively indoors for the foreseeable future. The rental one I've been using at the gym is a Petzl Corax, and it feels okay I guess? I have nothing else to compare it to. I'm going to go try some on at REI this weekend but wanted to see if anyone here could recommend one to look out for.

Speleothing
May 6, 2008

Spare batteries are pretty key.

What's your body shape like?

I like my Adjama, but there are a lot of harnesses on the market these days.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

toiletbrush posted:

So I've been practicing avoiding crimps as much as possible and open handing instead and I'm feeling pretty strong on normally really crimpy holds. The only thing is, my middle finger is about 2cm longer than the ones either side so its kinda 'hooked' when a lot of weight is on my hands - if my finger is hooky, is this position still much better than a crimp in terms of being kind to my fingers/pulleys?

I don't know that anyone here can give you a solid answer on this, but - probably, yeah. Figure that in a crimped position, all of your fingers are hooked like that and your hand in general is a lot "stiffer". If you pop off a hold like that, it is more of a sudden violent thing. From my experience, popping off an open hand crimp is more of a slide and feels less traumatic to my fingers. That one finger may be getting the same strain in an open hand or crimped position, hard to say really, but on the whole the open hand position should still be easier on your fingers.

numptyboy
Sep 6, 2004
somewhat pleasant

I am currently recovering from a pulley injury on my ring finger due to losing grip with the others and momentarily retaining on that one digit and whatever poo poo help the pinkie was giving - which was bad news. I guess the lesson here is that if you are losing grip make sure you disengage them at the same time.

No pockets holds for me for a while yet.

asur
Dec 28, 2012


armorer posted:

I don't know that anyone here can give you a solid answer on this, but - probably, yeah. Figure that in a crimped position, all of your fingers are hooked like that and your hand in general is a lot "stiffer". If you pop off a hold like that, it is more of a sudden violent thing. From my experience, popping off an open hand crimp is more of a slide and feels less traumatic to my fingers. That one finger may be getting the same strain in an open hand or crimped position, hard to say really, but on the whole the open hand position should still be easier on your fingers.

I think the issue in general is less about popping off the hold and instead that your hyper extending and highly loading your fingers in a crimp.

"Rock climbers are often using the unique crimp grip position to hold small ledges. Thereby the proximal interphalangeal (PIP) joints are flexed about 90° and the distal interphalangeal joints are hyperextended maximally. During this position of the finger joints bowstringing of the flexor tendon is applying very high load to the flexor tendon pulleys and can cause injuries and overuse syndromes. The objective of this study was to investigate bowstringing and forces during crimp grip position. Two devices were built to measure the force and the distance of bowstringing and one device to measure forces at the fingertip. All measurements of 16 fingers of four subjects were made in vivo. The largest amount of bowstringing was caused by the flexor digitorum profundus tendon in the crimp grip position being less using slope grip position (PIP joint extended). During a warm-up, the distance of bowstringing over the distal edge of the A2 pulley increased by 0.6 mm (30%) and was loaded about 3 times the force applied at the fingertip during crimp grip position. Load up to 116 N was measured over the A2 pulley. Increase of force in one finger holds by the quadriga effect was shown using crimp and slope grip position."

Schweizer, Andreas. "Biomechanical properties of the crimp grip position in rock climbers." Journal of biomechanics 34.2 (2001): 217-223.

"The present work displayed the first quantitative data of forces acting on tendons and pulleys during specific sport-climbing grip techniques. A three-dimensional static biomechanical model was used to estimate finger muscle tendon and pulley forces during the “slope” and the “crimp” grip. In the slope grip the finger joints are flexed, and in the crimp grip the distal interphalangeal (DIP) joint is hyperextended while the other joints are flexed. The tendons of the flexor digitorum profundus and superficialis (FDP and FDS), the extensor digitorum communis (EDC), the ulnar and radial interosseus (UI and RI), the lumbrical muscle (LU) and two annular pulleys (A2 and A4) were considered in the model.

For the crimp grip in equilibrium conditions, a passive moment for the DIP joint was taken into account in the biomechanical model. This moment was quantified by relating the FDP intramuscular electromyogram (EMG) to the DIP joint external moment. Its intensity was estimated at a quarter of the external moment. The involvement of this parameter in the moment equilibrium equation for the DIP joint is thus essential. The FDP-to-FDS tendon-force ratio was 1.75:1 in the crimp grip and 0.88:1 in the slope grip. This result showed that the FDP was the prime finger flexor in the crimp grip, whereas the tendon tensions were equally distributed between the FDP and FDS tendons in the slope grip. The forces acting on the pulleys were 36 times lower for A2 in the slope grip than in the crimp grip, while the forces acting on A4 were 4 times lower. This current work provides both an experimental procedure and a biomechanical model that allows estimation of tendon tensions and pulley forces crucial for the knowledge about finger injuries in sport climbing."

Vigouroux, Laurent, et al. "Estimation of finger muscle tendon tensions and pulley forces during specific sport-climbing grip techniques." Journal of biomechanics 39.14 (2006): 2583-2592.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

asur posted:

I think the issue in general is less about popping off the hold and instead that your hyper extending and highly loading your fingers in a crimp.

"Science"

That's great info, thanks. 36x less force applied to A2 in a sloper grip, and forces as high as 116N on A2 in a crimp.

I ignored the actual hang position aspects in my post though because he was basically saying that he felt like that finger was in the same position either way. I know it's not just about popping off from one position or the other.

Frequent Handies
Nov 26, 2006

      :yum:



Since picking up a pulley injury starting out with a lot of crimps I've gone just open handed - sounds like there isn't a downside to this?

Business of Ferrets
Mar 2, 2008

Good to see that everything is back to normal.

No downside at all if you're staying on the rock.

Dumbdog
Sep 13, 2011


I used to never crimp but I found some holds are just much much better crimped to the point that some are even almost impossible to open hand.

Frequent Handies
Nov 26, 2006

      :yum:



I just picked up a passive rack (sets of dmm wallnuts, tricams, bd hexes) for 24 pieces of pro and a chance to use them tomorrow at Ozone, pretty stoked. I've placed a few cams on top rope, but this'll be new.

Sharks Eat Bear
Dec 25, 2004


one of the things that makes me cringe is seeing folks at the gym bear down on every single edge, even if it's positive and a full pad, with a fully closed crimp. in general, trying to stay open handed as much as possible is probably the right way to go for most climbers.

eventually, though, you're going to need to crimp. and the problem with only using open hand and not using a crimp grip at all is that, when that time comes, you won't be prepared. the higher risk of injury with crimping doesn't mean you should avoid it altogether, it just means you should be really careful about when and how you use it. IMO the best way bar none to improve at a crimp is to use a hangboard with a pulley setup for repeaters, and remove a poo poo ton of weight; same thing for pockets. i wouldn't even view it as a strengthening exercise so much as a conditioning exercise.

and if you know that you're going to need to crimp a certain hold on the project you're working (or use a pocket, or any tweaky grip/position), make sure you warm up that grip/position thoroughly beforehand. in that case, it might mean crimping on big holds with good feet or only using your MR fingers when you could fit all 4. including specific grips/positions in a warm up can make all the difference in the world when it comes time to actually 'perform'

Endjinneer
Aug 17, 2005


Fallen Rib

pac man frogs posted:

I just picked up a passive rack (sets of dmm wallnuts, tricams, bd hexes) for 24 pieces of pro and a chance to use them tomorrow at Ozone, pretty stoked. I've placed a few cams on top rope, but this'll be new.

Learn how to place and clean tricams using someone else's, if you can. They're brilliant bits of gear but absolute bastards for getting stuck. I find you have to kind of trip them up to get them out. Other than that, enjoy. Placing trad gear well is a strange kind of art in itself.

Tsietisin posted:

I am an utter utter beginner to this...

This is something I really want to carry on with. I've finally found a physical exercise that I can get along with and enjoy.

There were a lot of things that surprised me about myself over the weekend, I am intrigued to see how far I can go.

Awesome!

henne
May 9, 2009

by exmarx


tricams are active pro as well

Pedestrian Xing
Jul 18, 2007



Is there a good site to find climbing shoes cheap?

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Sent a nice 11a in the gym today (leading obviously). Oh yeah.

Also climbed a crazy 10b that is super long and has a crazy overhang section where you climb out on a big stalactite. Had to grab a take out of pure confusion getting across the thing.

Climbing is so much fun.

IrvingWashington
Dec 9, 2007


Clapping Larry

Pedestrian Xing posted:

Is there a good site to find climbing shoes cheap?
Amazon warehouse deals have some decent reductions - http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dwarehouse-deals&field-keywords=climbing+shoes - I got some open box shoes for around $25 recently, and some nice Scarpas for the missus. Or look at the closeout sections of most manufacturers, e.g. http://shopfiveten.com/C-45/Climbing - if you're lucky with the sizes you can find some great deals that way.

Bud Manstrong
Dec 11, 2003

The Curse of the Flying Criosphinx


IrvingWashington posted:

Amazon warehouse deals have some decent reductions - http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dwarehouse-deals&field-keywords=climbing+shoes - I got some open box shoes for around $25 recently, and some nice Scarpas for the missus. Or look at the closeout sections of most manufacturers, e.g. http://shopfiveten.com/C-45/Climbing - if you're lucky with the sizes you can find some great deals that way.

Sierra Trading Post as well. Order through the app for free shipping, and there is always a code for at least 35 percent off. If there isn't, wait for one.

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gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



Any recommendations for building volumes for walls?

I'm in the midst of converting part of my garage to climbing gym and I'm trying to figure out how to put in some kind of modular volume that I can bolt in and remove easily.

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