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Papercut
Aug 24, 2005

The quickest substitution in the history of the NBA

Caf posted:

Prana Stretch Zion pants are the best pants by a long shot. Though sometimes I just wear jeans.

Sometimes a get a little crazy and wear my Prana shorts instead of my Prana pants.

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spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Papercut posted:

Sometimes a get a little crazy and wear my Prana shorts instead of my Prana pants.

I feel you there man. Sometimes it is just too hot for pants. I love those pants and shorts so drat much.

canis minor
May 4, 2011



petrol blue posted:

Right, third set of climbing pants I've tried, four if you count trying leggings on and refusing to leave the house. What the gently caress do people wear for climbing? I'm having a pig of a time finding something that doesn't bind and is lightweight enough not to make me overheat after ten minutes:
-My huge ancient denim skater-shorts (shut up) - fine, but only because they already have a massive rip in the arse (wore leggings under them). Waiting for them to actually disintegrate on the wall is distracting.
-Nylon reebok tracksuit - overheated, stuck at extreme stretching. Also reebok.
-Cut-off army surplus pants - binding at my knee. I bought them oversize to give myself more room, plus they were what the charity shop had :v:
-Leggings - ahahaha, no.

I'm deeply skint, especially after paying for month-pass at the bouldering place, so any ideas on cheap-but-functional would go down real well. Also, stories of what definitely doesn't work, so I can take it off the list.

e: I got a pair of 'craghoppers', look decent/loose/etc, but they're fully lined and way too hot for anything but winter extreme wear. Should I just hack the lining out? That seemed like a winner with the tracksuit pants, but then they were sticky.

Have you tried any yoga pants? I've picked something similar to these, in cotton, for ~10 : http://www.amazon.com/Champion-Womens-Favorite-Black-Medium/dp/B005CSNYBM/ and am pretty happy about it.

canis minor fucked around with this message at 11:23 on Mar 14, 2015

jackchaos
Aug 6, 2008


Dutymode posted:

Where is this?

This is new going up in Santa Maria, ca.

big scary monsters
Sep 2, 2011

-~Skullwave~-


petrol blue posted:

What the gently caress do people wear for climbing?
These are good:

As shown, they work well for skiing too.

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


petrol blue posted:

What the gently caress do people wear for climbing?

http://www.suredesigntshirts.com/collections/womens-pants


Caf posted:

Prana Stretch Zion pants are the best pants by a long shot. Though sometimes I just wear jeans.

Also this (women's variant are the Halle). Aside from the buttons, these pants are almost indestructible.

chami
Mar 28, 2011

Keep it classy, boys~


Fun Shoe

Another vote for the Stretch Zions, though they did say they were on a budget and those pants are pricey.

Discomancer
Aug 31, 2001

I'm on a cupcake caper!

6thing the Stretch Zions. When I need to sit around and watch other people climb, this is my pant of choice. If you work somewhere with pro deals, try to get Prana on the list, and you'll get a huge discount. Otherwise, they do show up on Backcountry occasionally when the year's style changes, and you can grab them for around $40.

French Canadian
Feb 23, 2004

Fluffy cat sensory experience


Most types of outdoor centric pants you find at REI should work. I am also partial to Prana stuff but make sure it isn't strictly an elastic waste band that keeps them up. An integrated belt or belt loops are helpful in the long run.

yoohoo
Nov 15, 2004
A little disrespect and rudeness can elevate a meaningless interaction to a battle of wills and add drama to an otherwise dull day


Not sure if this is the correct thread for this or not, but I'm looking for a new climbing gym. I just moved to New York City and want to get back into climbing. I climbed all throughout my adolescence but I stopped once I went to college. I picked it up a bit the past two years but have only been able to manage maybe 2 trips a month for that time. Now I really want to get back into it. I've always loved it and had a ton of fun going.

I'm mostly wondering if anyone has any recs for gyms in the NYC area? I've found two that look very nice, Brooklyn Boulders and The Cliffs. They both offer all kinds of additional yoga/fitness classes that are included with the membership, which is definitely something I want. The thing I don't like is that these places come out to ~$1200 a year. I can get $500 towards any gym membership through work, but that still comes out to double what I paid for a membership at my last gym in Seattle.

Good Dog
Oct 16, 2008

Who threw this cat at me?

Clapping Larry

I've started climbing at my school's gym, which has a few 25' walls. Holy gently caress is it hard, the rental shoes hurt my feet and my forearms are like rubber by the end of the day, but it is so much fun. Closest place to my house is Sender One, which I really want to check out because gently caress it looks cool.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Went to Shelf Road for the first time today. It is a pretty sweet area. Got on 4 routes:

Ladies Night in Buffalo This one was pretty boring but fine to warm up on.
The Brothel This was a much better 5.8 with a cool move to the finish. It may be a bit stiffer than 5.8 but I am not used to the grading at Shelf.
Season Down Under This is maybe one of the coolest 5.10b's I have climbed. It has it all. If the finish was better it would be classic.
Number 1 Super Guy This is an amazing route and by far the hardest thing I have ever tried. I didn't send it and had to bail off which sucks and I hurt my finger pretty bad by ripping a huge amount of skin off. I will try to be back for this one some day.

Here is me on Season Down Under. Just about to get to the realllllllly cool part just out of the photo.


Here is me on Number 1 Super Guy. This is on my second attempt. I tried that thin crack to the right the first time and got a decent left hand on there but just had nowhere to go with the right and fell trying to reach over the roof for something (anything)


I tried to go left next and this at least lead to some results.


But it lead to me flying off because I couldn't figure out any feet and then I hurt my finger. I gave it another try with a somewhat better result but just couldn't pull the roof. Oh well.

petrol blue
Feb 9, 2013

sugar and spice
and
ethanol slammers


:aaa: Amazing pics, it looks stunning there!

remote control carnivore
May 6, 2009


It begins. Got my barebones trad rack started. :homebrew:

1 set of BD nuts and Camalot C4 #1-#3. It's not much, but enough to sew up a few routes in Garden of the Gods.

spwrozek posted:

Went to Shelf Road for the first time today.

I keep missing out on Shelf, hopefully I can get down there one more time before it gets too drat hot.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



Steep and Cheep has a bunch of good gear for 25%+ off right now.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



spwrozek posted:

Steep and Cheep has a bunch of good gear for 25%+ off right now.

What are your plans from 23rd-26th?

I have more of the climbing wall that needs to go up. Also, climbing. I am thinking of checking out Tall Cool One in Boulder Canyon. Or possibly going to hang out at Other Critters since you made it sound so amazing.

ninja edit: I put up two more problems on the home wall. You'll enjoy them.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



gamera009 posted:

What are your plans from 23rd-26th?

I have more of the climbing wall that needs to go up. Also, climbing. I am thinking of checking out Tall Cool One in Boulder Canyon. Or possibly going to hang out at Other Critters since you made it sound so amazing.

ninja edit: I put up two more problems on the home wall. You'll enjoy them.

Monday to Thursday?? Working I suppose.

Also other critters was cool but really dirty still, some neat roofs though. Lots of cool climbs in CCC though, I actually think that section of the canyon is closed the 22-28 since they are building that bike trail.

New problems are always good, did you get the holds yet? My finger is pretty F-ed right now though. Might have to take a bit of time off.

gamera009
Apr 7, 2005



spwrozek posted:

Monday to Thursday?? Working I suppose.

Also other critters was cool but really dirty still, some neat roofs though. Lots of cool climbs in CCC though, I actually think that section of the canyon is closed the 22-28 since they are building that bike trail.

New problems are always good, did you get the holds yet? My finger is pretty F-ed right now though. Might have to take a bit of time off.

Well, I haven't gotten the new holds yet.

If you're game for helping to set up the left addition to the climbing wall, I need help figuring out how to assemble a 5-degree wall that will meet the 45-degree to give more volume and some more warm-up area.

Just so this isn't Boulder goon climbing chat: I would like to tell everyone to go out and build a goddamn climbing wall in your house. It is an awesome way to sneak in an hour of training every goddamn day!

Just in time to be constantly flash pumped for spring and summer bouldering! :haw:

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy



I can probably help out after work a night or two if you are good with working late.

Discomancer
Aug 31, 2001

I'm on a cupcake caper!

gamera009 posted:

Also, climbing. I am thinking of checking out Tall Cool One in Boulder Canyon.

nooooo wait until i can climb again to work this one you big jerk

FiestaDePantalones
May 13, 2005

Kicked in the pants by TFLC

Got my Tenaya Oasi's in the mail today. I opted for 1.5 sizes below street shoe, which is a lot smaller than ever before. I really enjoy them so far, but I keep slipping of holds I reach out with my bug toe for unless I really toe focus on toeing down into it. I'm sure it'll get better as I get more used to them.

petrol blue
Feb 9, 2013

sugar and spice
and
ethanol slammers


I did a rockover! :downs:

4th session climbing (third with the bf), and we focused a lot more on 'doing easier climbs better' rather than 'hardest climbs we can do' - seems to be a lot better approach for the minute, it felt more graceful, and between us we worked out a pretty elegant solution (for our current skill) on a couple of the climbs! Silly newb stuff, but drat it's fun!

Happily, the route changes last week didn't change my (drumroll, etc) Evil Nemesis Problem, I will figure out an elegant solution to that fucker. Made it again, but the last move still feels sketchy as hell, and I love how fun 'solving' it is.

Still not happy with climbing pants (hacked-off army surplus, clung to knees when I got sticky), I'm just gonna have to give up and make my own ones, better ones, out of blackjack and hookers. :colbert:

chami
Mar 28, 2011

Keep it classy, boys~


Fun Shoe

petrol blue posted:

I did a rockover! :downs:

4th session climbing (third with the bf), and we focused a lot more on 'doing easier climbs better' rather than 'hardest climbs we can do' - seems to be a lot better approach for the minute, it felt more graceful, and between us we worked out a pretty elegant solution (for our current skill) on a couple of the climbs! Silly newb stuff, but drat it's fun!

This is a good thing to be doing as a newbie in my own newbie experience - do things well within your comfort zone, but focus on your footwork, practice flagging and drop knees, or find stable positions for reaching for holds by hovering your hands over holds for a few seconds before actually grabbing them. Paying attention to your balance and trying out different solutions is a ton of fun as well, it helps ease me into a sort of flow when I'm climbing.

quote:

Happily, the route changes last week didn't change my (drumroll, etc) Evil Nemesis Problem, I will figure out an elegant solution to that fucker. Made it again, but the last move still feels sketchy as hell, and I love how fun 'solving' it is.

Check with your gym as to how often they reset walls and when that particular section is coming up. That gives you a deadline, and deadlines are great :getin:

quote:

Still not happy with climbing pants (hacked-off army surplus, clung to knees when I got sticky), I'm just gonna have to give up and make my own ones, better ones, out of blackjack and hookers. :colbert:

Honestly, if you're short on cash shorts do just fine. Just be careful not to scrape your knees!

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

FiestaDePantalones posted:

Got my Tenaya Oasi's in the mail today. I opted for 1.5 sizes below street shoe, which is a lot smaller than ever before. I really enjoy them so far, but I keep slipping of holds I reach out with my bug toe for unless I really toe focus on toeing down into it. I'm sure it'll get better as I get more used to them.

With most new climbing shoes, I've found that the rubber is more slippery the first few times I climb on them, but once it gets abraded a little it is a lot more sticky. I don't know if that's actually a thing that happens or if it's just some kind of placebo effect in my head, but I've noticed it with pretty much every new pair of shoes.

Frequent Handies
Nov 26, 2006

:yum:



Had quite the shock over the weekend at Joshua Tree when the guidebook clearly said there were anchors at the top of Jumping Jehosephat, getting up there after a nice run out and finding diddly was fun.

crazycello
Jul 22, 2009


pac man frogs posted:

Had quite the shock over the weekend at Joshua Tree when the guidebook clearly said there were anchors at the top of Jumping Jehosephat, getting up there after a nice run out and finding diddly was fun.

Did you makeshift one or down climb?

petrol blue
Feb 9, 2013

sugar and spice
and
ethanol slammers


How long did y'all wait before getting shoes, and would you do the same now? And what shoes are best for 'noob just wants to save on the hire cost at indoor bouldering'? (I figure buying for anything specific is pointless now, I just want the cheapest that aren't actually rubber anvils)

The cost to hire shoes each time I go is 3.50 ($5) for Sportiva Tarantulas, so 10-15 sessions-worth-of-hire and they'd pay for themselves. I'm not planning on buying just yet, but any advice would help me research. Also, has anyone worn Tarantulas, how would you describe them (at the moment, I can just about manage 'minging yellowgreen' :v:), so I can judge relative to that.

crazycello
Jul 22, 2009


petrol blue posted:

How long did y'all wait before getting shoes, and would you do the same now? And what shoes are best for 'noob just wants to save on the hire cost at indoor bouldering'? (I figure buying for anything specific is pointless now, I just want the cheapest that aren't actually rubber anvils)

The cost to hire shoes each time I go is 3.50 ($5) for Sportiva Tarantulas, so 10-15 sessions-worth-of-hire and they'd pay for themselves. I'm not planning on buying just yet, but any advice would help me research. Also, has anyone worn Tarantulas, how would you describe them (at the moment, I can just about manage 'minging yellowgreen' :v:), so I can judge relative to that.

I waited a month and regret it. If you're planning on going semi-regularly there's no reason not to get a pair that fits you right away. No clue on what type you should get though. Probably something comfy and cheap if you aren't worried about super aggressive performance.

www.amazon.com
Nov 5, 2012


I waited like 3 weeks and totally don't regret it. It probably depends on where you climb. The place I go to gave a month of free rentals with joining. In my case it gave me a good bit of time to get a feel of things and not feel a need to rush into buying anything. I bought something online that didn't really fit me and it didn't really matter because I still had free rentals to use. Having my own now they are much better than the beet up rentals, but I think there is a value in giving a bit of time of find and figure out what will work out good for you rather than rushing out to get something, then feeling like you need to keep them even if their might be something else.

I ended up just getting a basic pair of tarantulace shoes in the end for 85 bucks but they feel nice on my feet.

SplitDestiny
Sep 25, 2004


Some photos from our attempted Royal Arches => North Dome, South Face linkup


Started with an alpine start. A lot of scrambling and pitches that looked like this. We simuled all of royal arches for speed.


This fixed pendulum was way too fun.


Topping out around noon. The route pretty much just ends up in a trail.


We didn't plan for how hard it was to find this route. We saw a feature from a far that looked like the line and walked towards it and ended up more on the west side rather than the south side. We bushwhacked all the way around and finally found the route. This is two pitches up and slightly off route. We had to call a retreat as this route called for another 4-6 hours of climbing and we were (rightfully) worried about descending north dome gully in the dark. Of course, we ended up on the death slabs so calling when we did was a good thing!


The view from north dome

SplitDestiny fucked around with this message at 04:44 on Mar 19, 2015

Mahlertov Cocktail
Mar 1, 2010

I ate your Mahler avatar! Hahahaha!

I'm so mad I haven't been able to go to Yosemite yet, either for climbing or just to be there. loving great pics, man!

Frown Town
Sep 10, 2009

does not even lift
SWAG SWAG SWAG YOLO


My left middle finger joint has been feeling a bit painful, especially after climbing anything particularly slopey/round. Extending super far to reach a sloper seems to exacerbate this pain (which is a thing that happens often due to being pretty short). Crimps seem to bother me less, unless I'm doing harsh diagonal stuff. Then they bug me in a similar way.

I don't want to pull a tendon, but it seems like no matter how much rest I give it, or how much I tape up, the pain's pretty quick to come back (as in, as soon as I touch a sloper). It's been going on for months, usually more of a dull pain afterwards, but today I grabbed a little nubby round hold and tugged my finger in a really lovely way. It's fine now, but I'd like to avoid getting a permanent injury.

I'm not sure if this is a technique thing on slopers and/or crimps or an overuse thing. Can anyone advise me or point me to a good resource on open hand/crimping techniques/preventative care that'll lessen the likelihood of loving up my middle finger for good?

Papercut
Aug 24, 2005

The quickest substitution in the history of the NBA

Frown Town posted:

My left middle finger joint has been feeling a bit painful, especially after climbing anything particularly slopey/round. Extending super far to reach a sloper seems to exacerbate this pain (which is a thing that happens often due to being pretty short). Crimps seem to bother me less, unless I'm doing harsh diagonal stuff. Then they bug me in a similar way.

I don't want to pull a tendon, but it seems like no matter how much rest I give it, or how much I tape up, the pain's pretty quick to come back (as in, as soon as I touch a sloper). It's been going on for months, usually more of a dull pain afterwards, but today I grabbed a little nubby round hold and tugged my finger in a really lovely way. It's fine now, but I'd like to avoid getting a permanent injury.

I'm not sure if this is a technique thing on slopers and/or crimps or an overuse thing. Can anyone advise me or point me to a good resource on open hand/crimping techniques/preventative care that'll lessen the likelihood of loving up my middle finger for good?

From your log I get the impression that you only ever rest like 3-6 weeks and then you start climbing again even though it still hurts. That is a recipe for permanent damage. You need to listen to your body and avoid anything that causes pain until the pain is completely gone. Tendon injuries can easily take 6 months to heal. Even after you're pain free, you're supposed to wait a few weeks to resume activity. And when you do resume activity, you need to ramp it up VERY slowly.

big scary monsters
Sep 2, 2011

-~Skullwave~-


I'm pretty sure now that I broke my thumb skiing the other month. It's clearly not a super bad break because it didn't swell up that much or go very purple, and there's no bone sticking through the skin or anything but it shouldn't still be hurting this much when I open a jar or pick something up funny if I'd just bruised or sprained it. Probably not even worth seeing a doctor for, I don't know what they'd do. That's three fingers on my left hand I've broken now, I wonder if I'll complete the set.

On the upside I've convinced some friends to come down and visit me and we're going sea cliff climbing for five days in a couple weeks.

Chris!
Dec 1, 2004

E

big scary monsters posted:


On the upside I've convinced some friends to come down and visit me and we're going sea cliff climbing for five days in a couple weeks.

Sweet, where are you going sea cliff climbing? I'm going to have my first go at trad in a couple of weeks, in Dartmoor.

big scary monsters
Sep 2, 2011

-~Skullwave~-


Chris! posted:

Sweet, where are you going sea cliff climbing? I'm going to have my first go at trad in a couple of weeks, in Dartmoor.

Haha, funnily enough I'll be in Devon too. I learned the ropes on Dartmoor granite and haven't climbed over that way in years so it's a bit of a homecoming for me. We're hoping to go to Blackchurch in North Devon, then maybe down to Bosigran and Sennen in Cornwall. I'd like to stop in on Dartmoor too, maybe hit the Dewerstone or Sheepstor. We're going on the long bank holiday weekend, how about you?

Chris!
Dec 1, 2004

E

big scary monsters posted:

Haha, funnily enough I'll be in Devon too. I learned the ropes on Dartmoor granite and haven't climbed over that way in years so it's a bit of a homecoming for me. We're hoping to go to Blackchurch in North Devon, then maybe down to Bosigran and Sennen in Cornwall. I'd like to stop in on Dartmoor too, maybe hit the Dewerstone or Sheepstor. We're going on the long bank holiday weekend, how about you?

Oh cool! I'll be there sometime between 31st March - 3rd April, my girlfriend's cousin is getting married there that weekend so we're going to take the preceding week to do some climbing and kayaking. I've climbed at Dewerstone before, but only top rope, it was outstanding and I'm hoping to go there this time!

big scary monsters
Sep 2, 2011

-~Skullwave~-


Cool, maybe we'll see you. We'll be a group of two girls and two guys talking a big game and climbing really badly. If you're solid at HS get on Central Groove, definitely the route of the crag at around that grade. Otherwise Colonel's Arete and the imaginatively named Route B are two really nice V. Diffs there.

Tarnien
Jul 4, 2003
Champion of the World!!!

Papercut posted:

From your log I get the impression that you only ever rest like 3-6 weeks and then you start climbing again even though it still hurts. That is a recipe for permanent damage. You need to listen to your body and avoid anything that causes pain until the pain is completely gone. Tendon injuries can easily take 6 months to heal. Even after you're pain free, you're supposed to wait a few weeks to resume activity. And when you do resume activity, you need to ramp it up VERY slowly.

We have this discussion every couple of months in here, and I want to put my perspective out there so that you (Frown Town) can have multiple opinions and decide for yourself.

I disagree *STRONGLY* with the "rest more" mentality. I've explained my reasoning many times before, so I'll refrain from doing it again here, but to summarize: use the finger, but do it intelligently. If you (or anyone) want more specifics than that, feel free to PM/email me.

You might consider reading the new book by Dave MacLeod (5.14/V14/E11 climber): http://davemacleod.com/shop/makeorbreak.html
In it, he talks about why "rest more" is an outdated, unsubstantiated approach, why resting is not always (read: almost never) the best answer, and gives you some guidelines on how to gauge when rest is a good idea and when it isn't. I'm NOT advocating you go to the gym and climb every v10 crimp line you can find, but I honestly believe that resting for 6+ months is just as bad.

You might also consider picking up some of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G2G22IO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The limiting factor in connective-tissue healing is bloodflow. Grab one of these guys, and go crazy with it on your finger over the injury and it will turn bright red as it flushes with blood. I know it sounds very voodoo-magic, but I've noticed a drastic decrease in healing time due to finger tweaks since I've started using them.

I'm very happy to talk at length about my experiences with injuries (there have been many) -- the mental struggle to recover from serious climbing injuries have been some of my lowest moments. Just PM or email me. Humblebrag to add some credibility to my post: v12ish/5.13c'ish climber, been hangboarding (3x/week) for several years, currently working at a Sports Rehab clinic, and have recovered from more injuries than I care to count.

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petrol blue
Feb 9, 2013

sugar and spice
and
ethanol slammers


Tarnien posted:

currently working at a Sports Rehab clinic

Doing what?

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